Browsing Tag: bass fishing

    Articles

    How To Spool Braid On A Baitcaster | Bass Fishing

    September 22, 2019


    Hey folks, Glenn May here with BassResource.com. And today, I wanna talk to you about spooling
    braid on your baitcasting reel. There’s a couple little tricks about that
    you really need to know in order to get the most benefit from braid. First of all what I’ve got here is a spooling
    station here from Berkeley. I really like this, I’ve had this for, I don’t
    know, two or three decades now. I don’t know how long I’ve had it, but it
    works really well, it’s inexpensive, great way to put your line on to the reel. You just attach your reel here, put your spool
    here and you’re ready to go. If you don’t have something like this, you
    can do it the old school way. The way I used to do it is just take a pencil
    and put it between the…in the hole there on the spool. I’d take the line, put it through my rod,
    and then I’d literally hold on to the spool with my two feet. Just grab the pencil on each side, hold it
    between my feet and then I can just reel it on that way. But this spooling station makes it a lot easier,
    it’s not so awkward. So that’s why I use it. All right, the first thing you need to do
    is put your glasses on if you’re my age, and then…so you can see what you’re doing. You wanna take the line, you wanna put it
    through the eye, this little eye of the baitcaster. And then with a lot of these bait casters
    these days, they’ve got these little holes like a waffle ball here in the spool. That makes it great, you can stick your line
    in that and then just crank your reel just a little bit. Remember if you get like a six to one gear
    ratio, one full turn of the reel handle’s gonna turn that spool six times. So you don’t need…you just need to bring
    it round once. It’ll bring that line through. Now you’re ready here. What you wanna do is tie an arbor knot. This is a real simple knot, you just do a
    quick overhand knot, and once you have that done, you clip off the tag end and that prevents
    any problems once you get to start spooling the line on. You won’t have any issues there. And now you just tie one more overhand knot
    onto the line that’s coming through your eye. Now what you gonna do is you gonna cinch it
    down tight by pulling it through the front of the reel, and what’ll happen is that knot
    will hit that first knot that you made. It’s gonna hold it in place so it won’t come
    undone. The last thing I wanna do is I wanna take
    a little piece of tape here, just a little piece of scotch tape, real thin, and put it
    right over that knot. That helps hold it in place on the reel and
    kinda buffers that knot a little bit so it doesn’t cause any problems when you’re putting
    the line on. Now here’s the trick with braid. First of all, clench your drag all the way
    down as tight as you possibly can. Now grab a nice terrycloth towel. Don’t use a leather glove or any like that,
    but a nice terrycloth towel. You wanna grab a hold of that line, and what
    I do is, I’ll show you here. I grab it like this, so I kinda put a kink
    in the line, I wanna put as much pressure on it as possible and I hold on to it and
    I crank it on. And I put a lotta pressure on while I’m cranking
    it on. Here’s the reason for that. With braid, a lotta times if you get a backlash,
    the braid’ll dig into itself on the spool and it makes it really, really hard to get
    that backlash undone. So here you wanna apply as much pressure as
    you can, and the key here is, you don’t wanna put your fingernail in between any of the
    line. And it’s packed real tight, I can tell. Pack it really good and tight, make sure you
    can’t get your fingernail in there. When you do that, the line can’t dig into
    itself and you solve that problem. But here’s an added bonus. What happens is the line spools off the reel
    a lot easier. And that’s important when you’re flipping
    and pitching, it makes it a whole lot easier. The line just comes off just like butter,
    so it’s great. Okay, and once you have it up, you don’t wanna
    fill it up all the way, you wanna leave about an eighth of an inch of line left to the edge
    of the spool. The reason you wanna do that is because when
    you depress on the button on the reel, it actually is kind of a lever. It comes open at the top, but it presses down
    on the bottom, and if you have too much line on the spool, it’s actually gonna touch that
    line and it’s gonna inhibit the way for your casting, it’s gonna cause a problem. So don’t fill it up all the way, at about
    there, and that’s about right. Now that you’re done, you just clip off the
    line, put it on your rod, spool it up, and you tie your favorite lure and you’re ready
    to go. Hope that helps. For more tips and tricks like this and for
    the answers to all your questions about bass fishing, visit BassResource.com.

    Articles

    How to Prevent A Spun Hub On Your Prop | Bass Fishing

    September 20, 2019


    Hey folks, Glenn May here with BassResource.com,
    and I’m gonna ask you a quick question. Have you ever had a buddy come off the water
    or seen someone come off the water, or maybe it’s even happened to you, that said, “Man,
    you know, I don’t know what happened. I was going down the lake and I just lost
    power. I got a spun hub, and I have no idea why. I didn’t hit anything, never. I mean, it’s been fine. All of a sudden, it just gave. I was getting it on plane and suddenly poof! I lost power.” Well, if that’s ever happened to you let’s
    talk about that because there are ways to prevent that. Before I get into that though I want to talk
    a little bit about the hub and what it does. Now, the hub, that’s the core part of your
    prop. In this case, look at this, it’s right here
    in the core, right in the middle. See, with the hub, the prop is actually not
    all one unit. Right inside, if you can see, there is a little
    rubber piece right in here with my fingers on right here, there’s a rubber piece on there
    and there’s another, you know, metal part in there, but the prop is actually separate
    from that. And the prop is pressed on to that and seated
    right to the rubber part really well, and it’s not gonna give. I mean, it’s really strong. But the reason it’s there is because if your
    prop hits say a rock or something to that effect, that prop is gonna slip. It’s gonna give. Why you want that to happen is because if
    it doesn’t, then all the damage is gonna happen in your lower unit here. It’s gonna be way more expensive than just
    having to repair a prop. So it’s designed to save your engine. Now, that’s of course, under normal operating
    conditions. It’s funny how the prop can actually give
    way and you haven’t even hit anything. So there’s really three main ways that can
    happen. So let me talk to you a little bit about those
    in no particular order. Now, I know I just explained the hub in a
    high level and all you guys that are really into… you know the gear heads that are really
    into props don’t write me bad notes and letters because I didn’t go into full detail of what
    that hub is, but in essence, that’s what it does. And the rubber part, that’s the key part to
    remember. Okay. Let’s go to reason number one why this can
    happen to you. First of all, it has to do with, unfortunately,
    your driving and how you handle the boat. When you start from a dead stop, and a lot
    of us Bass anglers are guilty of this, myself included, especially if you’re at a tournament,
    you’re at idle or you’re barely moving, and then what do you do to get up on plane? You punch it, right? Throttle the whole way down or hammer down
    on that foot peddle, and the bow goes up, and you get going, and you finally get up
    on plane. You start trimming up and you go. When you do that, basically, it’s not geared
    at all to full down, you’re putting a tremendous amount of torque on that hub, all right, tremendous
    amount. Now, it can withstand it. Don’t get me wrong. But you’re doing that over and over and over
    and over over the lifespan of a hub, it’s going to deteriorate. It’s gonna wear it down over time. You’ll get it worn. It can lead to, or be a cause, or part of
    a cause to a spun hub. I’m not gonna say it’s the only reason you
    could do it. Some people do it all their life and never
    have a problem. But it can lead to…and I’ll talk about some
    of the other reasons. When we start combining them, you increase
    your chances of this happening. But it does put too much pressure on. So what I do is I throttle about half way
    down, get the boat going, get it moving, and then just kind of gradually give it some more
    gas. That does two things. First of all, it’s less pressure on the hub. But also, it’s funny, you know, when you throttle
    and hammer down like that, that bow goes way up. Next thing you do and you’re pushing a bunch
    of water in front of you, and it takes more effort and time to get up on plane. Well, if you do it slowly like I just told
    you, actually, what happens is you get on plane faster because the bow isn’t up so much. There’s not so much resistance and you get
    up on plane quicker. Let’s get on to the second reason. Again, it has to do with driving but it’s
    also environmental conditions. If you’re driving in, say, wind-driven waves,
    or a busy lake with a lot of wakes, or maybe, you know, wake borders out there, but anyway,
    a lot of turbulent water, and you’re going too fast, you can go airborne. Especially, this happens in wind-driven waves. I’m guilty of doing this too. And what I mean by airborne is when you go
    airborne, you go completely out of water. So much so you hear the engine rev way up. When that happens the prop, suddenly goes
    way up in the stratosphere in rpms, just this free flowing. There’s no water resistance. It gets going really fast then it lands on
    the water it goes, mhmm! It just crashed hits rally hard right in the
    water. Well, that’s kind of like a soft pot strike,
    right? It’s a lot of work. It’s a lot of pressure, again, on that hub. What that’s gonna do over time is it’s gonna
    cause some damages. It’s gonna wear it. And if you combine that with what I just told
    you, that is going to eventually lead to a spun prop, okay? Driving that way is really rough on your equipment. If you find yourself going airborne like that,
    slow down. Trim down a little bit. Don’t get that boat out of water. It’s not a cool thing to do. It’s going to damage your equipment. I know it can’t always be avoided, those rogue
    ways come out of nowhere and suddenly you’re airborne. If that happens and you find yourself airborne,
    you hear that engine rev up, the first thing you need to do is get off that throttle as
    fast as you can. Now, you’re not gonna throttle all the way
    down, but you hopefully are gonna prevent or at least reduce the high rpms that the
    engine’s gonna have when you go airborne. And because you’re not on the throttle when
    you land in that water you’re not gonna have as much torque and as much of a hit on that
    hub, like you would if you were still hammering down full power, okay? Just listen to that engine. If you get in that kind of situation, you
    hear that engine rev, pull off. It’s got to be a knee jerk reaction. Hopefully that’ll save some of the wear and
    tear on your hub. All right. So let’s get to issue number three, and this
    is a little more complex. But again, it goes back to that rubber component,
    that rubber sleeve that’s part of the hub. Now if you look here in the back of your prop,
    right out of the hole, right here, this is the front part of it, this is where the exhaust
    comes out on most outboards like this. Exhaust comes out that way. Well, as you know, exhaust, it’s hot, right? And normally as well, under normal operating
    conditions, with exhaust coming out, it’s fine. The rubber that’s in the hub is designed to
    handle all that heat. So it’ll be fine for the lifetime of your
    prop. However, if your engine’s running hotter than
    it’s supposed to, now it’s a different story. Now you’ve gone to a different realm. That can be caused by three main things. There’s other reasons but the three main things
    are, first of all, well, it’s your water pump, your thermostat, or your poppet valve. We’ll go into that briefly. The water pump, you need to replace the impeller
    every two years without fail. They wear out. They do. Your water pressure may look fine, guys, don’t
    judge that as when you should do maintenance by the way. But if you feel…every two years that impeller
    needs to be replaced because it gets worn. Also, every year, even when you’re not replacing
    that impeller, check the water pump anyway. Check that housing. It’s made out of…depends on your engine,
    but it could be made of sort of a hard plastic. Case in point, several years ago, during one
    of those inspections, we found that my housing was scorched. It was actually melted on the inside. And that was caused because…well, I talked
    to my mechanic. He said down here on the intake, I may have
    picked up a candy wrapper, plastic bag, could have picked up some leaves or something while
    I was running down the lake and all it takes is a short span for it to roam without any
    water, next thing you know, your housing is damaged. Now, I never do anything. I never knew a problem at all. The water pressure looks fine, but it’s not
    running efficiently when that happens. And that means your engine’s gonna run hotter
    than normal. Same thing with thermostat. Some engine’s have one, some have two. The thermostat’s not operating properly, your
    engine’s gonna run hotter than normal. And also, there’s a poppet valve in there. What that’s designed to do is circulate water
    into different chambers in the engine when you’re running at full speed to help keep
    it cool. It can get clogged with sand and other particles,
    and not operate correctly. If any one of three of those things is wrong,
    your engine’s gonna be operating hotter than it’s supposed to, which means the gases coming,
    the exhaust coming out around that hub are hotter than they’re supposed to. And when they’re running too hot for what
    the rubber is designed to handle, you can begin to degrade the molecular structure of
    that rubber hub. You combine that with some of the issues I
    just told you, next thing you know, when you go to throttle down really hard again, when
    you’re going to your next spot or when you’re just driving down the lake, suddenly it gives,
    you’re gonna be one of those guys at the dock going, “My hub spun. I have no idea why. I didn’t even hit anything.” Don’t be that guy. Follow these tips, and your prop’s gonna last
    you probably the life span of your engine. For more tips and tricks, visit bassresource.com

    How To Fish Finesse Jigs (The Best Ways) | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    How To Fish Finesse Jigs (The Best Ways) | Bass Fishing

    September 19, 2019


    Glenn: How do you like that? A finance jig. A little finesse jig. Come here, you. There we go. Come here, you. Give me your face. Look at that, right on the roof of the mouth. Finesse jigging. Hey folks, Glenn May here with BassResource.com. And today, I wanna talk to you a little bit
    about finesse jigs and how to fish them. Yeah, these are really a unique kind of jig
    compared to your normal flipping and casting jigs. And everybody should have these in your tackle
    box. And let me just show you what this looks like
    here. You see that? The strands, the front strands are a lot shorter. The other strands, it’s thinner. It’s not as bulky, not as thick. It’s a small, compact bait. That’s what you want. These are to be used in the traditional sense
    of the word. These are great when fishing is really slow
    and you have to finesse the fish to bite. This is when they bite, they’re not aggressive,
    they’re kinda lethargic hanging out near the bottom. They may be hanging out near cover but they’re
    not gonna run out and chase down your baits that are going by them. You’re gonna have to work ’em hard. When traditional jigs are a bit too bulky,
    this is a nice, compact size, anywhere you would throw, say, tube baits, darter head
    jigs. I’ve been throwing finesse jigs for over 30
    years. I have found a variety of different ways to
    fish them in a variety of different situations. I wanna take you through that today. I’m gonna really key on two main different
    ways of doing it. One is the traditional finesse style of fishing
    that everybody does. I’m gonna start off with that and then I’m
    gonna show you another way to fish it that some people may not have considered and I
    think you’re gonna like it. So let’s start off with how to fish it, the
    traditional finesse fishing, starting off with rigging. Okay, so with finesse fishing, that conjures
    up an image of light line fishing with spinning tackle. And you’re right, that’s what I have here. This is a 7-foot, medium power, fast-action
    rod. It’s got a lot of tip to it, a lot of give. And you’re gonna need that because you’re
    fishing a light line. And traditionally, finesse jigs have a light
    wire hook. So the key about this with the reel here is
    it doesn’t matter too much about the gear ratio on it. Because you’re not fishing it fast, so you
    don’t need a high-speed reel. What I’m most interested in is a nice, smooth
    drag. Make sure you get yourself a reel that’s got
    a real good drag system in it that’s nice and…see, nice and smooth. That’s what you want when you’re fishing these
    jigs because when the fish is pulling and fighting on you, you gotta let the rod and
    the line all work together with the drag so you don’t break anything. And guys, don’t be afraid to downsize to 6-pound
    test. You know, I used 10-pound for a long, long
    time, I was real nervous about it. I was afraid of breaking off and losing fish. After a few years of doing that, I finally
    got up the courage to try 8-pound tests. Ooh, big step. And I thought for sure I’d be breaking off
    more fish or having to tie a lot more often because the line just can’t handle it. Well, I got enough confidence over that over
    the years where none of those issues actually surfaced. I’m telling you guys, 6 pounds, 6.2-pound
    line, once you work yourself up to it, if you can use 6-pound, that’s definitely gonna
    make a big difference. Okay, so on it, I’ve got here a Booyah finesse
    jig. What I like here about this jig head, look
    at the ball, look at the shape of it. It’s a ball head jig. And I’m throwing it in rocks and cover in
    this particular instance. The ball head jig, it doesn’t get hung up
    in the rocks as much. It doesn’t have any protrusions, it doesn’t
    have an odd shape that can wedge itself in the rocks, so that helps reduce hang-ups. And the other thing is, look, see that? The line ties on the top. I’m telling you guys, this is absolutely critical
    when you’re fishing rocks. If you’ve got the line tie in the front, what
    happens is if the bait falls down in the rocks then it’s gonna wedge itself in there. And when you pull to try to get it out, all
    you’re gonna do is you’re gonna tighten it right up against the rock and you’re not gonna
    get it out. If the line ties on the top, a lot of times
    you can get the lure to come out the way it fell into the rocks just by that line tie,
    the nature of it being at the top. So that’s critical. This is really good for fishing in the rocks. This is good for fishing in light weeds, light
    cover, that sorta thing. It’s not designed here to fish in heavy, heavy
    cover but that’s not what we’re doing with this finesse style of fishing. So that’s the gear and that’s the reason why
    I rig it up the way I do. I’ve got a trailer on here, just a small craw
    trailer which helps add in the fall, it slows it down and gives it a more natural look. That’s how I rig it. Now let’s go fishing. There we are. Little guy, he thinks he’s big. That’ll work. Couldn’t stand my little finesse jig. See that? Right on the roof of the mouth. Little guy but they’re fun. All right, so for finesse jigging, as you
    see out here, it’s kind of a rocky bank, rocky shoreline, fairly steep drop. I’m sitting here in about 16, 17 feet of water. Drops off pretty quickly and it’s got these
    big boulders in between everything, great place to fish. This is a great place, normally you would
    fish, say, a tube jig or a football head jig with a twin tail grub, something like that. This is where the finesse jig really shines. The thing is when you throw it out here, first
    one I’m gonna tell you is when you’re jigging it back, you lift it up off the bottom but
    don’t lift it up very far. Because on a steep grade like this, see, it’s
    like this…the lure, you lift it up a little bit and then it travels out, and then it’s
    got a further way to fall. So it’s actually dropping more than the amount
    you lift it up. So you don’t have to lift it up, you don’t
    have to do this big movement. It’s subtle movements. That’s the beauty of fishing the finesse jig. So the first thing you wanna do…I’m gonna
    show you a couple different methods of fishing this. First thing you wanna do is just cast it out
    there and when it hits the water, let it go on slack line and watch it very carefully. You’re watching the line for any twitches,
    jumps, or maybe the line’s going into the water and suddenly starts accelerating, something
    like that. That’s usually a fish on the line, so you
    probably wanna set the hook. If you’re not exactly sure how deep it is,
    what you might wanna do is start a countdown method. Throw it out there and just go, “One, two,
    three…” you know, until it hits the bottom. And keep doing that. Pretty soon you get a pretty good idea, say
    between four and five is the bottom, for example. Now another time you cast it out there and
    after two, it stops falling, well, chances are a fish hit it. Or at the converse, you go, “Three, four,
    five, six, seven, eight…” Well, you better set the hook there, bubba,
    because that fish is taking off on you, okay? So, you know, that’s a good way of paying
    attention and detecting a bite, even on a slack line. You gotta be a line watcher and pay attention
    to how long it takes before that jig hits the bottom. Now, once it hits the bottom, it’s a couple
    different retrieves. I like to throw it out here, let it hit the
    bottom. And after it does, even though I’ve been watching
    the line, sitting on the bottom right now, even though I’ve been watching it very closely
    to make sure I have a bite, I still reel down, I give it a little feel just to see. Because sometimes, a fish will follow it and
    it hits the bottom and he’ll suck it up and you’ll never see it or feel it. So I always check to make sure there’s not
    a fish there on the other end. I can tell there isn’t, so what I’ll do is
    I’ll just give what I just told you, a little lift, not much. Here I’m just gonna lift the rod tip up a
    couple of inches and then let it go right back down. And I’m falling on slack line, I am reeling
    up the slack line. But I’m letting it fall straight down on slack
    line. Let it sit for a second, lift it back up again,
    and let it drop. It’s very subtle, it’s not big, sweeping movements. You’re just trying to get it to hop along
    the bottom. And a lot of times, the fish will track it
    and they’ll hit as it’s falling. So every time you lift up, expect that there’s
    gonna be a fish on the other end in the line. So another way of fishing it, here it’s on
    the bottom, is I’ll just get my rod tip down and I’ll just drag it on the bottom. Use the rod and just kinda drag it along the
    bottom. And then reel up the slack, let it sit there
    for a couple of seconds, and then drag it on the bottom a little bit again and reel
    up the slack. And sometimes, you may have to wait and wait
    and wait between pauses there before you reel it up. If the bite is really slow, you gotta slow
    it way down, which brings me to my next method of fishing it. And that is crawling it. It’s very similar but you really wanna just
    go over every little teeny pebble, every little rock, every little piece of wood, whatever’s
    on the bottom. Let it sit on the bottom. And all’s I do is a keep my rod tip up a little
    bit so I can feel it and I can lift it up and over the bottom. But I just use the reel and I slowly just
    pop it up over things. That’s all I’m doing, just barely moving along. And this could take a long time to retrieve
    it. I’m not gonna bore you with doing the full
    retrieve, but it can take you several minutes, three, four, five minutes for one retrieve. But you’re just crawling it on the bottom. When you feel a little rock or pebble, you
    just kinda lift up on the rod tip like I just did and hop it up over it. You’re making it look like a little crawfish
    making its way along the bottom and being as natural as possible. And a lot of times, the fish will just suck
    it up and you’ll feel the spongy weight on the other end. You’re throwing a 3/8-ounce bait, suddenly
    it feels a quarter ounce and little spongy? Well, it’s probably a fish. It can be weeds. If you’re not familiar with that bite, you
    might end up picking up a lot of weeds until you get used to it. But swings are free, there’s nothing wrong
    with swinging every now and then. So let me show you another way to bring it
    back. This is more of kind of a swim style. You throw it out, you let it hit the bottom. And now you’re gonna reel it but you wanna
    keep it just off the bottom as you’re reeling it. So lift it up and now I’m just slowly reeling
    it. And every once in a while, you hit bottom,
    you lift up a little bit, keep your rod tip up so you can keep it up off the bottom. As it gets closer to the boat, you can start
    to bring your rod tip down to keep it down next to the bottom. But you’re just letting it kinda swim along. And it’s a subtle way…this works really
    well, say for example, you’ve been throwing crank baits and the crank bait dies off, that
    bite dies off, switch to this method. And the bite usually picks right back up again. It’s a great way to keep catching fish. One more is kind of a deviation of that, that
    you throw it out. And here, you don’t let it hit the bottom
    but we lift up, let it drop, lift up, let it drop. And you’re just kinda yo-yo-ing it back to
    the boat, that’s all you’re doing. Never let it hit the bottom but you’re just
    kinda swimming it in a yo-yo kinda fashion. Again, a lot of times the fish will hit it
    as it’s falling, so pay real close attention to that line and be ready to set the hook
    at any time. I’ve had fish come right up to the boat and
    right as I’m lifting it out of the water will smack it right there. I don’t know why they’ll wait till that last
    minute but it about gives me a heart attack every time they do that. But great way to fish it. So those are a couple different ways to fish
    a finesse jig in the traditional finesse style. I’m going through it kinda quick for you but
    the speed, you’ll have to figure out what the fish want. And a lot of times when you’re fishing this,
    you gotta slow it way down. Like I said, it takes several minutes to do
    a full retrieve. So practice with that speed and how long it’s
    gonna take you to get that lure back before the fish tell you exactly how they want it. All right, so that was finesse fishing, traditional
    style. Spinning gear, open-water. Now I wanna show what I do with finesse jigs,
    a little bit different than maybe some people think. And that’s basically what I would normally
    do flipping and pitching with jigs but I lighten up a little bit and I fish a little bit different
    cover. A little bit better. That’s all right. Here we go. Come here. There we go, look at that. You think he wanted it? Look at that, he wanted it. That’s a finesse jig for you, guys. So first of all, what we’re doing here is
    I’m using, instead of…you know, a traditional flipping outfit would be, you know, a flipping
    rod that’s heavy action, long, with stout 50-pound, 65-pound braid, something like that. We’re gonna lighten up a little bit in the
    true sense of the finesse. This is a medium-heavy, 7-foot, medium-heavy
    action rod. It’s a little bit lighter action. Here I’m using Seaguar 20-pound flipping line. Actually, it’s 25-pound flipping line. It’s fluorocarbon. And the big reason for that…and I’ll get
    to that in just a second but that’s what I’m using. And then the reel, I’m not so much interested
    in the speed on the reel as I am the drag. This has about 16, 15 pounds of drag on it. Real strong reel, that’s what you need for
    flipping and pitching. And I’m just using, you know, a 1/2 ounce
    finesse jig in this case, you know. It’s very similar to the one I just had but
    a little bit bigger, right? So that’s the setup. We’re not doing spinning gear anymore, we’re
    heavying up a bit. But it’s not the full flipping and pitching
    rig like you would think in the traditional sense. The reason being is, you know, this is a nice,
    small, compact bait. And the traditional flipping jigs, they’re
    big, they’re bulky. And they have, you know, big trailers on them. Great when the fish are buried up in the cover
    and you need to dig ’em out and you need a lot of bulk to do that and get their attention
    and the fish are actively feeding. Finesse jigging comes in style or comes into
    play when the fish, the bite is off. They’re not really chasing baits, they’re
    not actively smacking your lure as it’s falling down, you know, down in cover. The other thing is when you’re flipping and
    pitching, you bring your boat right up on top of the cover and you’re just in pitching
    distance, maybe 6, 7 feet away, right? Or pitching a little bit further away, you
    know, so flipping, pitching, you’re only, at the most, maybe 20 feet away. That’s a really long pitch. Most people are a lot closer than that, 10
    to 15 feet away. In this case, what we’re doing is I’m taking
    the boat and I’m positioning it off away from the cover and I’m pitching it to the edge
    of the cover. You wanna pull off away. You don’t wanna get a 20-foot boat right on
    top of the fish when they’re real finicky. That can scare ’em off. So in this case, we’ll pull away from the
    cover. Again, we’re using the fluorocarbon line because
    braid…you know, if the fish are real finicky, it’s a real slow fall, you’re moving it slightly
    on the bottom, slow movements. You’re giving the fish time to examine your
    bait and then the whole setup. And braid, you can’t hide it. Braid just looks unnatural. Fluorocarbon has less visibility, it’s a low-vis
    line, it’s less apt to look unnatural to the fish. Twenty-five pound because we’re still throwing
    it real close to cover or just on the inside of it, right on the edge, you know, cover
    like you may see in the background here, bushes, flooded timber, things like that. You are just not throwing it into the heavy
    cover and right in the midst of it, like you would with 50, 65-pound braid. I hope that makes sense. So we’re positioning that boat out there,
    pitching it out there, letting it fall. I set my slack line, watch your line very
    carefully. Occasionally they do hit it on the fall. But usually, it happens after you’ve got it
    on the bottom. You let it sit for a while and you lift up
    and then, bap, they’ll hit it. It’s like they come up and look at it but
    they’re not willing to commit. And then you give it a little movement and
    they’ll hit it, that happens a lot. Sometimes it happens when you’re pulling it
    away from cover. As you’re reeling back up, for whatever reason
    it triggers them to come up and hit it before it gets out of the water. You would think they’re not chasing bait but
    they do that on the smaller jigs. And I don’t have an explanation for it but
    just be ready for that because sometimes they’ll surprise you right at the boat. There we go! Keri: Woa! Hello. Doorbell Glenn: Ooh! Keri: Good Fish. Glenn: Ho ooh. Come here you. Come here. Come here baby. Keri: That’s a nice fish. Glenn: There we go! Keri: Big fatty! Glenn: Has grass in his face. I’m tell ya, if you don’t think finesse
    jigs catch good fish, there you go. Ate that thing. Look at that. Nice. Look at the gut on that fish. Let him go on this side. Anyway, that is the different ways to fish
    a finesse jig. I hope those tips help. For more tips and tricks and for the answers
    to all your questions about bass fishing, visit BassResource.com.

    Scott Bonnema Answers Your Questions About the New Minn Kota Ultrex
    Articles, Blog

    Scott Bonnema Answers Your Questions About the New Minn Kota Ultrex

    September 11, 2019


    Hi, Minn Kota pro Scott Bonnema here. Wanna talk to you today a little bit about
    the brand new Minn Kota Ultrex trolling motor – recently released in the marketplace. A few of the Bassmaster Elites have had the
    opportunity to use them lately. I’ve had the opportunity now to use it for
    a few weeks, in tournaments as well. I found that, doing a lot of the on the water demonstrations
    and discussions with anglers, there’s a lot of questions and I want to just try to point
    out a few things real quick for you. First off, the Ultrex is an independent unit. It is operational regardless of which ultra
    sonic SONAR unit you’re using. The GPS technology is built into the head
    of the trolling motor and it has accuracy to within a 3-foot circle. So when we hit Spot-Lock, we have the ability
    to stay in that exact position. The other thing that you’ll find is that you
    operate it exactly the same was as you utilize your standard units today – the Fortrex for
    example. The difference is it has a cable steer as
    well as electronic control in the head of the unit which allows us to have power steering,
    so it’s really easy to use. There’s no fighting the trolling motor and
    it’s exceptionally fast. We’re gonna dump it in the water in a few
    minutes and show you how that works. But having said that, the other function or
    feature that we have, is a handheld remote. So all the operations of the trolling motor
    from the foot can also be done now remotely from anywhere within the boat. So if you have your family with you, or if
    it’s really rough and you just wanna stand in the back and fish, you can Spot-Lock it,
    you can adjust the speed, move forward, reverse, etc. from the handheld remote. It also tells you the GPS signal strength
    you have, it tells you how much power you have within your batteries, as well as the
    speed and position. So that’s just a handheld remote that you’ll
    start to see bass anglers start to use in the future. The unit’s available with a 45-inch shaft,
    a 52-inch shaft, or a 60-inch shaft. As a bass angler, I’ve always liked to stay
    with the shorter shaft, but as an example I’m planning to go with a 52-inch model now
    with a 112-lb. system for next year, because when you are in the big waves, and you really
    want to use that S pot-Lock technology if it’s real windy as an example, that allows you
    to stay in the water. A thing I want to point out though that’s
    a huge benefit of this – because we have an electric motor, and cable steering, when we’re
    in real rough water now, we can hit Spot-Lock we don’t have to stand in the front we can
    kind of step back a little bit if we want and have a little more comfort in our fishing
    but because that cable motor is there, when we set its location, it stays locked in that
    position. So if it comes up and down out of the water,
    the trolling motor does not fight back and forth – it just stays in one locked position
    and goes up and down. It automatically will move left or right to
    keep us on that position. A huge feature when you’re actually in the
    water fishing with it. So again – handheld technology, high speed
    movements, precision locking, GPS technology, built into the unit, available in 80- or 112-lb
    thrust technology – I think you’re gonna find it to be an awesome tool. One of the other quesitons I get is guys saying,
    “hey – I’ve got a Fortrex. You know, what do I do? Do I keep that Fortrex, do I buy a new Ultrex?” My recommendation to guys – because this is
    such a game changer, and truly will change the way we fish, I’d recommend, guys, keep
    your Fortrex…keep it as a back up unit – just in case something were to happen on the water
    and you break something. We have the ability to take the allen wrench
    out, and with this new bracket design we can slide the Ultrex out and/or we can put the
    Fortrex onto it, and lock it in place. So we can utilize the same bracket for the
    Fortrex if we needed to have it. So again – keep it as a spare unit. Put it on only in the case of an emergency,
    and you’re good to go. So let’s dump in the water and we’ll go show
    you how simple it is to use. Ok so we’re on the water. I wanted to show you quickly some of the simple
    features of this new Ultrex. It comes standard with stainless steel, plastic-coated
    cables for control. It has the same heavy-duty bracket that Minn
    Kota’s had for a long time with lift-assist, one-handed operation, locking feature, for
    stowing, and deploying the trolling motor. The transducer is built into each and every
    unit – it’s got a built-in Universal Sonar into the unit. The difference you’re gonna see right away
    is that the whole head will move. Because it’s an electric, power-steering style
    unit – we have a power switch here to turn the power on or off – simply turn the power
    on, and now we have sensor controls in the head and so we can simply, with one finger,
    operation, the harder you push, the quicker it responds. Very very fast. And very quiet. Operate it exactly the same way you would
    operate your standard Fortrex units – you got the power control built into the foot
    pedal, directional controls – very simple. In addition, we have the speed setting on
    the side. So you operate it just as you always would
    have. The difference is Spot-Lock technology. Now that I have found a spot – let’s say I’m
    fishing – all I do, literally, is tap this button. You notice on the control that the Spot-Lock
    function is now enabled. This trolling motor will now stay within a
    3-foot circle as to its location, and will automatically make that adjustment. You see it operating on its own right now. So depending upon the wind – whether it’s
    wind or current – if you find that location, it will automatically stay at that spot. It automatically ramps up or decreases the
    speed for the trolling motor to stay at that location. One of the questions we’ve been getting is,
    “well does that really chew up the battery?” The reality is no – it uses less battery because
    it’s slowly ramping up and slowly backing off instead of high speed movements – so it’s
    very, very smooth in its operation. It’ll use less battery in the long run. To get out of Spot-Lock – so now I’m fishing,
    I can literally walk around in the boat, I can go retie, maybe, as an example, I just
    fished a tournament, caught a fish, it was very windy, I hit Spot-Lock, literally walked
    away, went back, did the fish management in the live wells, walked right back up, made
    another cast, caught another fish – I did that three consecutive times. No other technology would allow me to do that. So it’s that simple. Now let’s say I wanna move over. All I do to get out of Spot-Lock is just touch
    the pedal. Once I’ve done that, Spot-Lock is now disengaged,
    and I’m moving. I can go anywhere I want to go. Once I get to another spot, all I do is tap
    the button. Now those are the simple ways of operation
    that we would do as a normal bass angler. The same functions can be done from this handheld
    remote. So if I wanna stand in the back of the boat,
    let my buddies up front, or my kids, or if I just want to operate the boat from the back,
    I can do all of those same functions from the handheld remote. I’ve got high speed bypass, I’ve got jogging
    capabilities – and that’s what the handheld will allow you to do. It shows you the speed, the trolling motor,
    if it’s running, it’s location, it’ll show you within a foot-and-a-half of where you’re
    at from the spot that you put into it. The other thing that the remote allows you
    to do, is you can put in sixteen separate spots. So if you have sixteen different areas, you
    can hit GoTo spot number 1, as long as you’re within a quarter mile of that spot, this trolling
    motor will automatically go to that spot and stay within a three-foot circle of where you
    had entered it. It also has the ability within the remote
    to put in sixteen tracks – and you can put sixteen tracks, each up to two-miles long,
    in here. So you would record it, and then end it, and
    then you can recall those standard in the control. One of the additional features that we have
    on these models is called i-Pilot Link. And that’s the function where you would need
    the Humminbird electronics. The trolling motor will link directly to the
    Humminbird units, and in that case, what’s cool about it is that if you have hundreds
    of waypoints, you can simply say “I wanna go to waypoint 422,” and you can point it
    out and it’ll just go to it. And so you’ll be able to operate the same
    functions from your Humminbird unit and link all of your data points to the trolling motor. And that’s a separate feature of the i-Pilot
    Link system that is available in these Ultrex units. So, again, they’re available in 80-pound thrust,
    112-pound thrust technologies, various shaft lengths are available. They also have the ability to upgrade from
    i-Pilot to i-Pilot Link, which will tie you into Humminbird units. Short of that, the trolling motor is completely
    independent and can be operated accordingly. That’s really all there is to it. Simple operation, extremely fast and quiet. It is truly a game changer for the bass fisherman.

    Structure Fishing For Bass – What You Need To Know | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Structure Fishing For Bass – What You Need To Know | Bass Fishing

    September 8, 2019


    Hi, my name is Grant Goldbeck. I’m a Elite
    Series pro from the state of Maryland. One thing I’m always asked is what my favorite
    technique and application I like to bring to the table when I’m catching bass. I’m a
    structure fisher; I love offshore structure fishing. The one thing I found that’s really
    important with structure fishing is giving the fish something different, not only giving
    them something different but trying to figure out what’s going to get those fish to bite
    day by day. Some days they want it really slow, sometimes they want it popped off the
    bottom. One of the techniques that I found that a
    lot of people don’t do is actually taking a jig, staying off the structure a good ways
    and reeling it uphill, keeping contact with the bottom. I like to go to a one ounce jig
    for that most of the time, sometimes a 3/4 ounce. But I feel a one ounce usually maintains
    contact on the bottom really good. Once that bait gets down to the bottom I like
    to keep that rod tip high and keep a steady wind on it. And what that does is it keeps
    that jig bouncing on the bottom, keeping contact. And it actually acts like a crankbait, but
    a weedless crankbait. I can go through brush, just about anything, rock down on the bottom.
    I’m not going to get hung up. What it does for me, I feel, is it takes those
    bass that are inactive down there in the school, and it makes them active. A lot of times cranking
    that jig real slowly on the bottom will take that inactive school and make them active.
    It makes them decide whether they’re going to eat something right this minute or maybe
    wait the whole entire day before an opportunity comes in front of them. Bass are opportunists
    and making them make that split decision a lot of times makes them make a decision they
    wouldn’t normally make when they get a longer time to look at a bait. When I’m offshore structure fishing, I like
    to put my bait together with twin tails a lot of time. Because the twin tails, what
    they do, is they’ll actually get flapping. When you get them going like this, it looks
    like a crawfish in defense. When a crawfish is scooting backwards in an active, faster
    pace like that, generally it’s when somethings chasing them. It pretty much takes that predator and that
    prey, it takes that bass and puts him in a feeding situation, this is a crawfish trying
    to get away from me and I need to make that decision right now. I’m I going to eat it
    or not? And that steady cranks really, really makes it looks like a crawfish scooting away
    backwards. I find this technique puts more fish in the
    boat for me when fish are inactive. To me, putting more fish in the boat, whether it’s
    at a competitive level or just fun fishing, hey, that’s what we’re all out here for, to
    enjoy the day of fishing. And when your rod’s bent, you’re enjoying a day of fishing.

    How to Fish the Fat Free Shad SquareBill Crankbait | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    How to Fish the Fat Free Shad SquareBill Crankbait | Bass Fishing

    September 1, 2019


    You know when I’m going to fish those stump
    fields, those brush piles, rocks, in 10 to 14 foot of water, I’m going to use the Bomber
    Fat Free Shad Square Lip. And the reason for that is that square lip is going to deflect
    off of that cover under water. That’s what we want in order to get a fish to really be
    aggressive and get after that bait. Any time a fish sees a bluegill or a shad
    deflect off a piece of cover, he’s going to go after it and strike that bait. And because
    of the square lip on this deep diving Fat Free Shad, it’s going to allow me to crank
    it down. Depending on the water temperature, usually
    as a rule of thumb, the cooler the water is, the slower we like to work our baits, because
    the fish may not be as aggressive. The warmer the water, the faster we’re going to work
    it. But to get the bait down I’m going to crank it fairly quick, probably on 10 to 12
    pound test line. Get the bait on the bottom, and there it is, deflecting off the cover
    that I’m fishing, whether it be the rocks and stumps, or even brush piles. Because of the square-ness of the lip, it’s
    going to help me catch a lot more fish; because it’s going to deflect off of that cover just
    like I want it to. Oh, look at that pig. That’s what that new
    Bomber Square Lip Fat Free Shad is going to get you.

    How Bass Pro Started
    Articles, Blog

    How Bass Pro Started

    August 30, 2019


    At age 21, Johnny Morris fell in love
    with the emerging sport of bass fishing and he spent five years on the
    professional circuit. After noticing growing interest in the sport,
    Morris decided to take it next level and make a business out of it. Was in 1972
    when Morris incorporated Bass Pro Shop and started selling worms and homemade
    baits in the eight square feet of space in the back of his dad’s liquor store in
    Springfield, Missouri. His homemade bait became so popular amongst visitors of
    Springfield that they were asking for a way to buy his bait when they returned
    home. That’s when a brilliant idea struck Morris.
    What if Bass Pro Shops created a catalog and mailed it to people so that anyone,
    anywhere can order his baits? Thus began the Bass Pro Shops’ catalog, which started
    in 1974 and soon became the biggest sport’s catalog in the world. And to keep
    up with demand, in 1975 Morris created American Rod &
    Gun which was a separate entity that wholesaled some of their products to
    independent retail stores. Today they have more than 7,000 retailers who have
    signed up to buy their wholesale products. Then Morris revolutionized the
    marine industry when he introduced the Bass Tracker, which was the first fish
    ready boat motor and trailer. Fishermen could now buy high quality fishing botes,
    factory direct at tremendous savings, and this also opened up the waters to
    families who otherwise could never afford it. The tracker marine group would
    also become the leading manufacturer of boats in the world.
    And finally after 13 years in the same Bass Pro Shop, Morris opened up another
    location in Springfield, Missouri in 1985. He would open up many, many more, as Bass
    Pro Shop has more than a hundred retail stores across America and has more than
    200 million annual visitors. And that’s how Bass Pro shops started. Thank you for
    watching my video. If you enjoyed it please subscribe to me on YouTube and
    follow me on Instagram @austindanielpatry.

    How To Texas Rig Tube Baits | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    How To Texas Rig Tube Baits | Bass Fishing

    August 29, 2019


    Hey, folks. Glenn May here with BassResource.com,
    and today to Texas rig a tube. Now, we’re not using tube jig, I have another video on
    that that shows you how to do that. But let me show you how to Texas rig a tube. This
    requires a little bit different hook. Look at this, this hook’s odd shape, big belly
    to it, big gap. That’s what you want because big, thick bait like this, you want to have
    some room underneath there for that plastic to get out of the way when you set the hook.
    So you use a hook like this. Notice we’ve got a couple things here. The
    shank is at an angle and you have these barbs here too. So when you first look at it and
    you look at this bait, you’re like, “What am I supposed to do here? How do I do this?
    Do I try to push this in this way or what?” Let me show you. The first thing you want to do is line up
    the hook the way it’s supposed to be on the bait, just like that. See that? Notice that
    the eye is buried in the bait. That’s important because typically, in this type of setup,
    you’re using a bullet head in front of it, bullet sinker, and you want that to be flush
    against the bait. So you want the eye buried inside the bait. So line it up, you get an
    idea of what it’s supposed to look like. Notice also, look at the angle. This is not
    like an EWG hook, where it’s got a straight angle on the eye. It’s at an angle, so you’re
    actually going to go in towards the top and down towards the bottom at about a 45 degree
    angle, so that’s really important to keep that in mind. So instead of just putting the
    hook in straight in like that, like you normally would, we’re going to start up here towards
    the top. And look at that angle, I’m going to put it in about like that. Okay? Now we’re
    just going to thread it all the way on through, and I’m going to push it on down through before
    I twist it. There we go. Now I turn it around. Okay? Perfect. Now let’s take a look and see
    where we’re at. All right, now we’ve got an idea of where
    that hook is supposed to go in: right there. So, make a mark on it with your finger. Bend
    the bait and go in there with about an 90 degree, just perfect right in there, see straight
    up and down. We’re not going in at an angle, it’s straight up and down. Put it right on
    through the bait so it’s flush, just like that. Then all we’re going to do is push the
    bait forward just a little bit and put that hook point right back in the bait just a little
    bit. There. Now, guess what, it’s flush. My finger’s not catching on it. You’re not going
    to catch any weeds, you’re not going to catch any junk on there or get hung up. The bait’s
    ready to go. You’d have your bullet sinker up front. This is perfect for flipping some
    real heavy bush. You’re not going to get hung up and the bass are going to just. . .this
    is candy, man. This is the ticket. Try it out. For more tips like this visit BassResource.com.

    Stomach Wrenching Magnet Fishing Find & You Have To See For Yourself!!
    Articles, Blog

    Stomach Wrenching Magnet Fishing Find & You Have To See For Yourself!!

    August 29, 2019


    oh dude there’s me tonight something dad
    wrapped up in there Oh guys about the 36 heart pound pulled
    magnet today I am sitting in a kayak I’ve never met a fishing kayak before so
    stick around we’ll see how we do today something oh I got my first fine today
    oh yeah look at that like a bully or something look at that my first fight of
    the day about time I got some we’re in a kayak oh yeah oh yeah good fine right
    there nice yeah that’s a nice knife – a little rusted and feel a little things
    wrong with it but not bad fine so we found a few things so far not a whole
    lot just keep on going it’s who we can’t find anything else oh yeah it’s good
    it’s not the bolts they find these all the time
    GLaDOS to the bucket alsa Oh bear pliers and I was actually just stuck right
    there I was trying to move and I was pulling magnet up and actually found
    something until they add that to the bucket so far being on the kayaks been
    pretty good oh it’s good to crap out on me
    look I just found a little piece of metal no nice piece of mallet you found
    one two ha ha ha all right big day thinks you guys safe
    over there take a look oh we actually found something too oh no
    all right we’ll get that off later it’s a big day got let’s get the gravelly hook I just got
    out of the kayak because it’s big Dave so there’s something big over here you
    can’t get up so we’re gonna drop this diner so we can’t find anything got it
    oh it’s going up snap we got it we got it
    it’s coming it’s coming hold it there I’ll go around
    Oh but how’d you catch that the hand right
    there huh yeah you got him a little little water thing a water faucet watch
    glad that to the bucket you always find a cool stop my big day just hooked on
    something for graveling hook some type of bag what is that oh I’m gonna pull it
    up that stinks dude God dies thanks Malik oh dude there’s me tonight I tell you that stock where isn’t Rasmus
    is dead first blue bones well where that is wherever that is it
    stinks I don’t know what is I’m gonna drag it put it off to the side there’s
    no way I’ll take that with me there’s something dead wrapped up in there all
    right guys take a look we found a date I didn’t – Poli which is pretty cool is
    the very first thing I found today I found that in the kayak did fine is nice
    trouble hook today did finest piece of metal I found right here I know for sure
    what it is but as a solid piece of metal found a couple of fishing lures and some
    bullets which is real cool always find these did find this cool knife today
    which is real cool always find knives out here
    it’s probably about the I don’t know how many knives I found out a lot so I found
    this weird piece of metal not sure what that goes to found some nuts and bolts
    there’s some bottle caps and like a something else oh now what that is all
    really cool finds did find his pair of pliers they don’t work which is real
    cool let’s take a look what Big Dave found here’s a big day found he did find
    this piece of metal which is real cool another piece of metal old bullet shell
    casing nice nut some type of metal bar he found notice how you found a co2
    cartridges slew say he found some nuts and bolts also all really good finds a
    bottle cap a piece of old can which is real cool did find this fishing lure
    which is real cool maybe one day I will take our lures out and go look for them
    and also found this lure which is real cool found a couple more hooks and he
    also did find this thing right here – graveling hook I don’t know how he
    pulled that up but he got lucky found that

    LED Pontoon Lighting Install
    Articles, Blog

    LED Pontoon Lighting Install

    August 29, 2019


    so I’m working on something a little different today as you guys know I really enjoy the lake to live right here basically on the lake and kind of wanted to do a little nighttime lighted on the boat so I think what I’m going to try to do is I ordered a bunch of LED strips kind of try to maybe you make LED lighting underneath the seats and then I’ve ordered some LED underwater lights that we’re going to have kind of projecting off the back of the pontoons these here are the LED strips that of us then actually like encased in this really thick clear plastic its got like a really thick clear plastic piece over it and you can cut these at I don’t know like four inch intervals all we do the strip saying it’s super nice about these is they come dual wired so I’ve already cut this strip but it’s got wires at both ends and so essentially when you cut it then you’ve got to like it doesn’t make the rest of the bad this just happened to be like the centerpiece of what was left after I used it already cool stuff got these on Amazon I think they were maybe I don’t know they’re cheap they’re super cheap I think five or six bucks maybe parole and I think it’s like a 15 foot roll and they work really well so let me show you what I was talking about so on the back of the pontine here I basically just mounted some little LED lights you can see that I’ve just grilled a holding us back plate this is like a cue LED light supposed to be waterproof hopefully it’ll hold up just comes out the back up through here and then doing the exact same thing on the other side so that’s where i’ll actually mount it in the hole here and ideally what will happen is it will when they’re on it will light the water behind the boat itself you see it as done in a lot of your ski boats they have LEDs underneath the back deck kind of likes the water for swimming get on off the boat and just kind of looks cool you know here on the inside basically all I’ve done is on these seats they have this little lip here and so I’ve just catched that LED strip underneath that it’s got a Scot an adhesive backing to it a little bit concerned about it holding up through the heat and the heat of the summer I was afraid that the glute kind of loosen up maybe it fall down so what I may do is I may occasionally drill some holes around these and then use those zip ties or something to kind of make sure they stay but from anywhere sitting anywhere in the boat you can see that they’re not visible and it was just kind of give it a nice glow underneath all these seats I actually went with the blue LEDs it’s not crazy blue it’s not like you know obnoxious blue it’s just nice cool blue should give us some kind of ambient lighting and allow you bill see what’s going on on the boat I really like to build a cruise at night and this will allow us to be able to kind of see what we’re doing and just have a cool effect to it so this gets done maybe we can get on the water today I think it’s done turned out pretty good it was a lot of work is tedious work i soldered everything and loomed everything so it’s probably what took them so long but now it’s just time to go on the lake and achieve that hard work paid off still waiting on the Sun to go down once it goes down we can test lights until then I think we’ll eat some food drink some beers well wells pretty good trip a lot of work kind of paid off so the LEDs on the floor a little brighter than I would have liked and then the LEDs on the pontoons behind the boat are not as bad right because that would have liked so I don’t know I guess just like everything else you live and learn you got to experiment and try out but anyway one good thing for you guys or at least I feel like it’s a good thing I know I’m excited about it is the boats in the water so that means the c10 is going back out where the boat was and means the big stir is going to start so spacing for that going to pull this down the next week or so start mocking things up cutting some tubing bending consuming cutting some wheels so anyway hope you enjoyed that little video as always thanks for joining me I’m sure I’ll see you guys tomorrow so do work son