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    How To Rig A Senko 5 Ways | Bass Fishing Tips
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    How To Rig A Senko 5 Ways | Bass Fishing Tips

    October 19, 2019


    Hey, folks. Glenn May here with BassResource.com
    and today I want to talk to you about the many different ways you can rig the soft plastic
    stick bait. Sometimes people call this a Senko, this happens to be a Yum Dinger right here.
    I like the Yum Dingers better, they tend to last longer, but there’s a lot of different
    manufacturers out here who make a bait like this. There’s a lot of different ways to rig
    it and use it. So today I want to show you a couple different ways to do that. The first one and the most common one is to
    rig it weightless, Texas rig. So I’ve got here just a 2/0 hook here, extra wide gap
    hook. You can see the hook is in line with the eye here, and that’s what you want. Okay,
    the reason being is what you’re going to do when you Texas rig this, you’re going to put
    the hook right down the middle. A lot of times these have a seam on each side
    from the molding process. So to make it really easy, if you haven’t done this before, put
    the hook right down the eye and then line it up with that seam and bring it right on
    through. I’m going to show you a little trick here that I think a lot of you haven’t seen
    before. What I do in order to make the bait last longer
    and to stay on the hook longer is I use a little pegging system. I use some 40-pound,
    real stiff, look how wiry that is, real stiff monofilament. What you’re going to do is you’re
    going to put that through the eye of the hook. I don’t know if you can see that very well,
    there’s the eye and you’re going to put it right through the eye just like that, except
    only when it’s buried inside the bait. So, let me put it in the bait. Bury it right
    in the head, now you can’t see it. So how do you find it? Well you put it between your
    fingers and you rotate that hook until you can feel that eye and you feel it right between
    your fingers. Then you aim for it with this monofilament and you stick it right into the
    eye. I’m trying to do it. Of course, it’s like typing, when people are watching you,
    you do a bad job of typing. There we go. It’s hard for me to see, okay, let me do it the
    way I normally do it. Oh, there we go, right in. Anyway, you bring it on through and then you
    can see it’s sticking out a little bit on the end right here. So you want that flush,
    you don’t want it sticking out, because it’s going to pick up a little weeds and things
    like that, moss and whatnot. Flush with the bait and then you cut the other side flush
    with the bait as well. What that does is it keeps it from sliding down the hook. See that?
    Okay? Consequently, it keeps it from tearing too, it makes the bait last a lot longer. Okay, then I just rig it normal Texas style,
    that’s how you want it to look. You line it up, bring it through the bait. Then I just,
    you can see the hook sticking out like that. So I “Texpose” it, just back it off a little
    bit and put the hook, bury the hook right back inside the bait so that way it’s nice
    and flush so it doesn’t pick up any weeds. That’s the most basic way to fish this bait,
    weightless, throw it out there. When it drops, it drops vertically and it just shimmies like
    this, just does this little shimmy action as it falls down. The fish just love that,
    love that, so this is the most common way to do it. Here I’m using 15-pound test, I’ll use it
    on a medium-heavy action rod with a fast action tip. That’s my typical general purpose setup,
    I throw this in all kinds of cover and open water. There’s several other ways to fish
    this. For example, you can fish it drop shot. Here
    I’ve got it rigged up on a drop shot rig, okay? It’s just sticking out like that. In
    the water, it’s going to stick out like this. I just have it nose hooked, as you can see.
    Okay? I just have it nose hooked. So it’s not Texas rigged in this case, but
    the bait is free to do its little action. Okay? Nothing really is inhibiting it, this
    is a great finesse tactic in clear water when the fish just don’t want to bite. However,
    don’t let yourself limit to that, you can up-size the weight. Here I’m using six-pound
    test, I use six-to ten-pound test on a seven-foot medium-light action rod, spinning outfit of
    course. You can go heavier on this, you can use heavier weight, heavier line. This is a real light weight here on the end,
    I’ve got this thing up about two feet above the line. I like my drop shot that way. I
    want this bait to be up off the bottom, because typically that’s what a drop shot rig is for,
    is when the fish aren’t feeding right on the bottom. So they’re looking up, they’re near
    the bottom, but they’re looking up. So I want to get this off the bottom so they can see
    it. You can use heavier weight and heavier line
    and you can fish this in heavier cover. You might want to Texas rig it then instead of
    having it exposed like I have here, but you can fish it in heavier stuff. As a matter
    of fact, I’ve used drop shots, heavy, heavy drop shots, 50-pound test, three-quarter-ounce
    bait with a flipping stick and thrown it into weed in a matted hydrilla and matted milfoil.
    So don’t let that change the way you fish, or don’t let the drop shot limit yourself
    to light line. Another way to fish this is, again, we’re
    going back to weightless, however, we’re going to fish it … going to take that peg out,
    we’re going to fish it wacky style. What is wacky? Well, as the name implies, it’sa weird
    way of fishing it. All we’re going to do is e’re going to stick the hook right in the
    middle, just right through it, just like that. Does that look weird or what? Okay? That’s
    why it’s called wacky because it looks really weird. Okay? It completely changes the action of the bait.
    Now instead of the bait shimmering down like that when it falls, it does one of these numbers
    as it falls. Okay? It’s completely different action and the fish, sometimes that’s exactly
    what they want. Now this is weightless so that the action
    is going to be a lot less pronounced. It’s not going to be super, but what you can do
    is you can use weighted jig heads or weighted heads that will make it fall faster and will
    cause that action to be a lot faster. So what I like to do, I’ve experimented a bit and
    I’ve discovered that you don’t have to get a wacky head, a wacky jig head. There’s some
    out there you can buy but I’ve learned that fish don’t care, they really don’t care what
    it looks likes. It’s that action that they key off of, so
    I just use your regular football head jig. This one is a quarter-ounce I think. I use
    eighth-ounce up to three-quarter-ounce football head jigs and I’m throwing a lot in rocky
    areas where you can get hung up real easily. So I find a football jig works real well.
    It looks ugly when you rig it, trust me. It’s not aesthetically pleasing but, again, the
    fish don’t care. You just rig it on just like that, that’s the basic gist of it, right?
    It looks weird but I’m telling you, it works, and especially in current. When it’s heavy
    current, this football head jig works really well, it doesn’t get hung up. You can also throw it in weedy areas. Here’s
    a jig head that’s got a little weed guard right here. Okay? It’s a little wire weed
    guard and that works equally well for wacky rigging. Again, adding just a little bit of
    weight makes the bait fall a bit faster, you’ll get a more reaction bite, you get a little
    more pronounced action on that fall. Okay? So a couple different ways, let your imagination
    fly. Again, the fish don’t care what it looks like so you don’t have to buy any special
    gear, look around what you have in your tackle box and experiment. Another way you can rig this bait is Texas
    rig. Again, it’s just like we had weightless, I rigged the exact same way and I pegged it,
    again, pegged the plastic but here I just have a weight in front of it, just a bullet
    weight. Again, that changes the action, here we go again. This, now it doesn’t have that
    little fall to it. What it does is when it hits the ground, when
    you throw it in heavier cover, it stands up like that and then slowly wiggles as it falls
    back down, all right? Fish love this, and you can throw this in cover, throw this in
    heavy cover wood, things like that, it’s not going to get hung up. It’s also a little bit
    subtle action. Sometimes when you’re throwing those creature
    baits, those lizards and those Brush Hogs and that sort of thing, they got all those
    appendages making all this action and sometimes that’s not what the fish want. They just want
    something a little more subtle, a little bit less action, and that’s when this is the ticket.
    Okay? It’s very basic, straightforward, but sometimes that’s candy to them. So take a
    look at your Texas rig and if you’re not getting bites, maybe you put one of these on. Finally, another way that I rig it is the
    split shot rig. Here I’ve got a, or a Mojo rig, some people call it Mojo. I have a cylinder
    weight up here on the front, this goes through weeds and rocks a lot better without getting
    hung up, so it works really well. About 18 inches behind it, again, I have that weightless
    Texas rig just like I showed you. This is a little bit smaller bait, this is a three-inch
    bait, because I’m using here a six-pound test on a seven-foot medium-light action rod again.
    I’m sensing a theme, that’s what I use for my finesse gear. You can use six-to ten-pound
    test. What this does, this weight here, this gets
    the bait down on the bottom quicker. If you’re fishing 15, 20 feet deep, maybe even deeper,
    you don’t have to wait for this to make its way on down. This gets it down, it’s on the
    bottom, and this then is set as it falls to do its trick, it starts doing that little
    shimmy action again, but this time it’s really deep. Every time you lift the weight up an you drop
    it, this thing, again, just this shimmies right down behind it. Great presentation for
    deeper water or, again, when fish are real finicky, post front, really don’t want to
    bite, it’s a real subtle, slow action here, and you can even drag it on the bottom if
    you want and that’s another option you can do. Again, don’t limit yourself to finesse tactics,
    you can do this Carolina rig as well, just all you’re using is a heavier weight. As a
    matter of fact, I don’t deal with all the swivels and the weights and the beads and
    all that stuff when rigging up Carolina rigs. I just go to a heavier rod and reel. I’m using
    15-pound, 20-pound test, maybe even more. I’m just up-sizing one of these to a three-quarter-ounce
    or a heavier weight. It’s the same rig, okay? Just a little Mojo weight here. Works great, it’s a very versatile bait, that’s
    why it’s so popular. You can rig it so many different ways and it works in a whole variety
    of different applications. So I hope it gave you a few ideas and I hope those tips help.
    So for more tips and tricks like that, visit BassResource.com.

    Articles

    How To Fish A Jig for Bass: The BEST Jig Fishing Tips for Insane Limits!

    October 14, 2019


    Glenn: There we go. Keri: Oh, hello. You got him. Oh, boy. He is wrapped around a tree. Keri: You gotta go in and get him. Glenn: Come here. Keri: You’re gonna have to go in and get him. Glenn: Come here. Come here. Keri: And let him back in the water. Glenn: Let’s see if I can get this guy out,
    see if this Seaguar braid is gonna hold on to him good enough. He is wrapped around this stuff. Keri: He did, he jumped out of the water and
    went right around that branch. Glenn: Come here. Come here. I got your face. Look at that. Yeah, we’re throwing in the thick stuff with
    some jigs. So we’re talking about today, how to jig fish
    in heavy stuff like this. Hey, folks, Glenn here with BassResource.com. And today, I wanna talk to you about fishing
    jigs. Jigs, day in and day out, year round, will
    catch fish. And a lot of times, we’ll catch big ones. They’re just known for big fish type lures. They’re not gonna catch a lot of numbers. But a lot of times, when you hook in to a
    fish with a jig, it’s a quality bass. So today, I wanna talk to you a little bit
    about this. If you’ve been fishing jigs for a while, you’re
    gonna get a few tips here from this video. But if you’re new to it, you haven’t fish
    jigs a whole lot, listen up, because this video is definitely for you. We’re gonna talk a little bit about the right
    equipment to use for jigs, a little bit about the jigs themselves, what you wanna look for
    when you’re buying them. And then we’re gonna talk to you about some
    of the different retrieves you can use with jigs. So let’s talk about equipment, starting with
    the rod. A good all-around purpose rod for jig fishing
    is a seven-foot heavy power, medium or fast action rod tip. This here is an Okuma TCS Jig and Worm Rod,
    perfect for the situation. It’s not a flipping stick. Now flipping, you can also do that with jigs,
    you wanna get a flipping stick for that, those are typically a little bit longer, maybe seven-five
    to even close to eight feet long, with the same characteristics. Again, heavy power, fast action rod tip. That’s what you wanna look for for jigs because
    you’re gonna be throwing this on a lot of heavy cover. You have to use a rod that’s got a lot of
    backbone, a lot of power that’ll turn that fish and get him out of that cover before
    he has a chance to turn and wrap around everything and break free. So that’s why you need that strong, strong
    heavy rod for that. Paired with to this line, I’m using 50-pound
    Seaguar Smackdown Braid. This is a good, universal braided line that
    works really, really well in all conditions, especially when you’re throwing in trees and
    shrubs, and all the heavy thick stuff where you’re gonna be throwing jigs. I use 50-pound minimum, sometimes I’ll use
    65-pound. You can also use Seaguar’s Flippin’ line,
    which I’ve been using for a while now. It’s excellent, excellent line. Your choice, both are really good to use. The Flippin’ line I tend to use when the
    water is really muddy and dingy, it’s perfect for those situations The Smackdown is much
    better for when the water is a little bit clear. The reel, you can use just about any reel. This is an Okuma Helios reel. This has a really strong drag system. That’s what you want. When you set the hook, you’ve got to have
    this drag cranked down all the way tight. When you first set the hook, you can’t have
    any give at all. Set that hook home. Once you get the fish clear out of the cover,
    then you can loosen on the drag and fight him back to the boat. But you’ve to get a solid hookset first so
    a strong drag is imperative. This reel has a 7.3:1 gear ratio. I like that because, again, it gives me that
    speed to get that fish out of the cover quickly. So a high speed reel with a strong drag, that’s
    the main characteristics you want for jig fishing. So let’s talk a little bit about the jigs
    themselves. If you’re first starting out, you don’t need
    to buy a ton of different jigs out there. Really focus with two different colors, your
    browns and your green pumpkins. This one is brown, as you can see. This is a Siebert’s jig, this is a brush
    jig. You want browns color. Browns and greens are gonna cover most of
    your jig fishing situations. Yeah, there’s, black and blue works really
    well if you’re fishing in water, say the visibility is less than a foot and a half, less than
    a foot, really muddy, and you’re fishing real dense cover, then black and blue work
    really well to show up as a silhouette in that muddy water. I don’t get that much of that up here. You know, we live up here in the Pacific Northwest. Not too often, we encounter real muddy conditions,
    so this is my go-to is the browns and also the green pumpkins. There’s a couple of things you wanna look
    for when you’re getting a jig. First of all is a real strong, stout hook. We’re using heavy, heavy gear, again, strong
    braid, strong rod, so you need a hook that’s gonna hold up to that. So let’s look at this hook, man. That’s a beefy hook on this. Again, Siebert jigs, they make excellent,
    excellent jigs. And that’s what you want, a strong stout hook,
    to put up with the pressure when you set the hook. The other thing here too, as you notice, on
    this one, jig heads basically come in essentially two different varieties. One is a football head jig, the other one
    is what I call cone shape. There’s a lot of variations out, a lot of
    different names. And they’re more specialized specific purposes
    like Arkey jigs, things like that. But it all boils down to whether it’s a pointed
    jig or a football jig. And on the pointed jigs, if you will, in this
    particular case, this is the Siebert brush hawg. Look at this, the line tie is part of the
    jig head. Isn’t that cool? And then stick out. And that’s important, because as less things
    that gets hung up in the weeds, you know, you’re not gonna bring back a lot of junk
    and stuff and when you’re fishing all those heavy cover. So that’s important. Here’s the thing, up until about all five
    or so years ago with jigs, it used to come out of packets pretty much the same where
    the strands are really long, you’d have to cut them off, because you want the strands
    to be just past the hook point. If you notice, look at that, that’s exactly
    where these are. The strands had just passed the hook point. So what we do is we cut those off because
    it would come really long. Well, nowadays, you don’t have to do that. Most jigs come with the right length. Same thing with the brushguard on, the weed
    guard. You see, when you press down on it, it just
    covers that point just right, okay? There’s not a whole lot of excess sticking
    and past it. What I like to do as far as any type of changing
    anything or modifying any of the jigs, when they first come out of the package, really
    all as it is, is I sharpen the hooks, I always do that, it’s just a habit, but I wanna make
    sure they’re super, super sharp. And the other thing is I always add a trailer
    on to it. In this case, this is a Rage Tail, Rage Craw
    and it matches the colors pretty good. It matches the colors of the skirt really
    well. And all that I do on this is I typically pinch
    off just about an eighth of an inch or a quarter of an inch on the end of it. So when I rig it on to the bait, also I want
    is, I want those claws just hanging pass the hook. I don’t want to hang too far pass beyond that. So it makes a nice compact, bite-size lure. By the way, I wanna tell you, when you’re
    buying jigs, you don’t have to buy all kinds of different weights. Get a quarter ounce, half ounce and three-quarter-ounce,
    that’s gonna cover most of your jig situations. I’m not talking about punching, so don’t write
    me hate mail. Punching’s a different technique, altogether. But that’s gonna cover most of your situations. That’s really all there is to it. All right. So we’ve talked about the equipment, we’ve
    talked about the jigs. Now, let’s talk about the different ways to
    fish it. The easiest and most common way of fishing
    a jig is you just throw it out there and you let it sink straight down on a semi-slack
    line. And you’ll notice I did a bunch of things
    right there all at one. So I’ll take you through it step-by-step. When you throw it in there, you bring the
    rod tip down, and you reel up the slack line, and then you wanna feel that bait a semi-slack
    line. In other words, you can still letting it fall
    straight down, but you don’t have a super slack line, and you’re actually feeling some
    contact of the line between your bait and the rod. So watch this. You throw it out there, bring the rod tip
    down to hook set position, reel in the slack, and now, we’ve got connection with it. It’s that quick. It happens very, very fast. So I’ll show you one more time so you can… This is the motion you’ve got to do all the
    time. As soon as that bait hits the water, you gotta
    be in the hook set position. So cast it out there, let it hit, bring the
    rod tip down, reel up the slack, I’m ready to go, okay? You don’t wanna bring up too much slack because
    you don’t want the bait to swing away from the cover. You want it to fall straight down. But that’s the key. Okay, so when it’s falling, what you wanna
    do is make a mental note for how long it’s gonna take before it hits the bottom. If you have to, do a count. Some sort of like one, two, three, some sort
    of cadence to get into sense of how long it takes to fall and hit the bottom. So, for example, we’ll do it here. I’ll cast this out here real quick. We hit the bottom, okay. So it’s one, two, three, four, five. Okay, five and a half is about what it took. So say now, I’m going along the… This is the shoreline, and it’s hitting around
    your four, five every time, maybe six. And then I could cast and it stops at one. Well a fish probably hit it, okay? Set the hook, definitely set the hook. And you wouldn’t have known that, because
    a lot of times, you don’t feel it. The fish is just sitting there, he opens his
    mouth, he grabs it and they doesn’t move, so you won’t feel a bite. You’ll just notice that the jig didn’t fall
    all the way like it should have. So be very, very much on point watching for
    things like that, when it does that, watch for your line, see if it twitches, jumps,
    moves sideways. If it does anything that you didn’t do, a
    fish probably did. So set that hook, okay? And speaking of setting the hook, let me walk
    you through something real quick. I’ve seen a lot of jig fishermen do this. When you set the hook, what they’ll do is
    they’ll let that bait fall and they think they got a bite, they’ll reel down, they’re
    on point, and they do this feel game. They pull back a little bit more. Okay, now they feel a tug-tug, definitely
    a fish, and they set the hook. Problem with that is you set the hook on a
    tight line. Lot of times, what happens is that that bait
    is barely in the fish’s mouth, maybe just a little bit. And all that you did when you set the hook
    is you move the bait maybe that much in his mouth, or the head of this is resting on the
    inside of his mouth. And so all that you did is you just turned
    that fish. You didn’t get a hook. If anything, the hook didn’t get in very far. And you reeling up towards him and all of
    a sudden, he opens his mouth and blows that bait right out. This is especially true if you’re fishing
    football head jigs. Football head jigs have a real tendency to
    do it, they’re big, they’re bulky, they’ll hit up on the inside the roof of the fish’s
    mouth, and the hook never penetrates, and then that fish blows it right out. So instead, when you’re making the hook set,
    what you wanna do is you reel it down. I’ll just cast it out then do this. You wanna have a little slack in it. So first of all, you’re in the hook set position,
    ready to go. If you lift up and you feel a bite, drop the
    rod tip quick, reel in maybe one or two turns, but you still have slack in it, and then set
    the hook really hard, okay? You wanna throw slack in it, that’s the key. You wanna jar that bait, not turn the fish’s
    head. You wanna get the power of the rod going,
    get the speed of that rod going before it makes contact with the bait. Now, you’re going full-fledged, full power. The bait, boom, slams into the fish’s mouth,
    and oftentimes, so hard that it will go through his lips. But he still has his mouth closed and that
    hook comes right behind and hooks them. You almost always hook them in the roof of
    the mouth when they do that, and you got a solid, solid hooks that he’s not coming unbuttoned,
    okay? So that’s the key, is that hook set. Make sure you’ve throw a little bit of slack
    in the line. If you have to, if you feel that fish and
    you’re playing the feel game, just drop the rod and then set the hook something. But you’ve got to practice that and get that
    down because throwing slack in the line is key to get in a really solid hook set. All right, so let me talk you through some
    of the different techniques here. One was throwing it out there, and you just
    let it drop. A lot of times a fish hit it during the fall. So that’s why I said, you got to be ready
    for the hook set. But if it hits the bottom with jigs, let it
    sit for a second. What jigs will do, especially with living
    rubber skirts, they’ll sit on the bottom, they’ll start to slowly open up like this. Even if it’s not living rubber, they’ll still
    move a little bit. A lot of times, a fish will come up, they’ll
    look at it, they’ll nose down to it, and then it’s just making that little bit of movement,
    and they just can’t stand it, then you gotta pounce on it. Okay, so let the jig do its thing. I know it’s boring, you’re not doing anything,
    you’re just sitting there. But just hold on a minute, just keep contact
    with that bait. The next thing you know, you’ll see your line
    start swimming off. You won’t even feel the bite. So do that first. Now, if that fish doesn’t bite, now what I
    want you to do is… You know again, a lot of the bites occur during
    the fall, so you’ve got to make it fall again. So now it’s sitting on the bottom, you’re
    gonna sit for quite a while, then all you’re gonna do is you get your… You’re pointing down towards the lure, lift
    up a little bit, get your rod to about the 10:00, 11:00 position, let it drop. And here, I mean it dropped straight down. And all I’m doing is I’m reeling up the slack
    as I bring the rod tip down. So I’m still maintaining contact with the
    bait, but I’m not altering its trajectory. And then that’s all you do, is you just bring
    it up and bring it back down. You do a couple of times, and it’ll probably
    be back to the boat by then, but you don’t have to work it all the way back to the boat. Once you’ve pulled, got free of cover, the
    fish probably isn’t gonna bite on that type of retrieve. So you bring it back up, let it fall back
    down, just reel at the slack as it falls, let it hit bottom, and let it sit again, let
    it open up, do its thing. Again, five, 10 seconds, it doesn’t take very
    long, and then lift it back up again, and repeat, okay? Now, if those two techniques aren’t working
    and the fish don’t wanna bite it on the fall, so you got to do something different. And one of the things I like to do is drag
    it on the bottom. You throw it out there, let it sit on the
    bottom. Once it’s on the bottom, you wanna let it
    scurrying on the bottom, just like a crawdad. I mean, that’s what that jig is imitating,
    is a crawdad. So reel up all the way, and then what you
    wanna do is you move it just with your rod, not with your reel, and there’s a couple of
    ways you can do this. First is just to drag it straight back with
    your rod, and then reel up the slack, and you’re ready to go. And then just drag it again, and reel up the
    slack. Again, you always wanna be on a hook set position. So you don’t wanna be…have your rod all
    the way back here if a fish bites, try to set the hook even further. You have nothing left. There’s nothing to give you any leverage. So if a fish hits it while you’re dragging
    it back, just like I just told you before with the hook set, reel up to it, and then
    set the hook. Give yourself that advantage, so you can get
    a good hook set on that fish. But that’s a really good technique, just drag
    it back like that. Now, another way that I’ll do, I’ll do some
    variations. Because again, this is a crawdad imitation,
    so I like to make it scoot along the bottom. Almost like it’s a crawdad trying to get away. If you ever watch a crawdad under water, they
    kind of move, move, move like this. Sometimes, it’ll be just two-two or, you know,
    three little pumps, four. But they do this kind of thing. So that’s what you wanna imitate. So you just kind of pop, pop, pop, pop, pop,
    and let it drop, and then pop, pop, pop, pop, and let it drop. Maybe let it sit for a while, let that skirt
    flare out, and then give another pop, pop, pop, and let it sit. It looks like he’s trying to get away from
    the fish. And especially if you throw this up in the
    cover and you let it drop, the fish doesn’t bite it. Now, you can scoot it away from the cover,
    any fish that are in that cover looking at it, it looks like now it’s trying to get away,
    they’ll race up and smack it. It works a lot of times. The last one I wanna show you is kind of a
    swim jig technique. But again, I’m not talking about swim jigs,
    but I do like to swim these back. This works especially well with a heavier
    jig head. And so with this next one, I like to deal
    with three-quarter-ounce jig heads because I wanna keep it down towards the bottom. You throw it out, let it hit the bottom. I wanna keep it just off the bottom. I just slowly reel it, just slowly swim it
    back. And what I wanna do is I wanna feel it hit
    the bottom every now and then. And I’ll just speed up the reel just a little
    bit more, just to make sure that it stays just off the bottom. But a lot of times, it seems kind of boring,
    right? It’s slow reeling it, it’s not quite dragging
    along the bottom. But boy, howdy, man, when the fish hit it,
    they will smack it. I mean, they will try to rip the rod out of
    your hand. So hold on tight, always be in the hook set
    position, so you want the rod up here, just slowly reel it back, and let it kind of bump
    all along, occasionally bumping on the bottom. And a lot of times, you’ll catch fish that
    way. All right. So those are some of the essential jig fishing
    information that you need to know about. I didn’t go to all the different kinds of
    jigs, because I’m telling you what, I can go on and on. So we’ll have some other videos on the more
    advanced techniques. But if you’re just getting into jig fishing,
    everything I just told you, follow what I told you. And I’m telling you what, you’ll become a
    better bass angler. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    How To Prevent Trailer Hitch Failure While Towing
    Articles, Blog

    How To Prevent Trailer Hitch Failure While Towing

    October 12, 2019


    Hey folks. Glenn May here with BassResource.com,
    and today I want to talk about an often overlooked piece of equipment, your trailer hitch. Now,
    most people just bolt on the trailer ball and let it go. You’re done. No, don’t do that.
    You could have some problems down the road. You might even find out one day to see your
    boat trying to pass you going down the highway if you neglect this little piece of equipment. There’s only really two things you need to
    do. It’s pretty simple and pretty basic. One is see this nut right down here on the bottom?
    Make sure that’s tight. Go there and check it. Check it right now when you’re done watching
    this video. Make sure it’s on good. Even if it’s got a lock nut or a lock washer or something
    like that on it, it can and will come loose. All of that work, all of that vibration going
    down the road, and all of the pot holes that you hit jars it loose. It will work loose.
    The last thing you want to hear when you’re going down the road when you stop at a stop
    sign and get ready go, you hear this thump. You don’t want to hear that because that’s
    your hitch bouncing up and down on here. Don’t ask me why I know this. Suffice to say, I
    put Loc-Tite on this. I put it on extremely tight. I make sure it’s on there good and
    strong with that Loc-Tite it’s not going to go anywhere. The other thing you want to do is put grease
    on the hitch. I know a lot of you guys don’t do that, and you look at the hitch and say,
    “Look, I’ve had this for 15, 20 years. The ball looks just fine. It doesn’t need grease.”
    Well, the problem is it’s not occurring on the ball. It’s occurring inside here. You’ve
    got metal on metal, and that hitch ball is stronger metal than your coupling. You’re
    doing a lot of damage and wear on the inside, and you don’t even know it. That’s what the
    grease is for. Metal on metal grinding is never good. Don’t think, “It just pulls straight
    behind a truck. It’s not big deal.” Again, you have turns, left right turns, hill, potholes,
    bumps, the angle of the grade of the road, and everything. This is going all kinds of
    different ways and wearing down on your coupling. A little bit of grease will go a long way. Get the right kind of grease, too. Get the
    trailer hitch grease. Don’t put lithium grease on it, or marine grease, or spray it with
    WD-40. I know some of might be chuckling right now, but there are people who do that. Just
    get yourself a little bit of grease. It costs four or five bucks for a jar of it. If you
    don’t like to get your hands all dirty putting it on there, just grab a paper towel, swab
    it in there, wipe it around the ball joint, and you’re good to go. I do it on every trip.
    That’s how religious I am about making sure that everything is working properly. It’s
    just a little dab every trip, and you’re good to go and don’t have to worry about it. For
    more tips and tricks like this, visit BassResource.com.

    Best Chatterbait Tips for Bass Fishing (These Work!) | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Best Chatterbait Tips for Bass Fishing (These Work!) | Bass Fishing

    October 10, 2019


    Keri: There you go. Look at that. Look at that. Where are you, dude? Glenn: Come here, fish. Boy, that’s a good fish. Keri: He’s acting like he’s really good. Come here. There you go. Glenn: He’s not that big, but he sure felt
    like it. Keri: Yeah, they wanna chase something. Glenn: There he is. Keri: ChatterBait! That’s a good fish. It’s the best one we’ve found all day. Or almost, just like… Glenn: ChatterBait! Keri: ChatterBait! Glenn: Hey folks. Glenn May here with BassResource.com and today
    let’s talk about ChatterBaits. Catching fish on ChatterBaits, that’s the
    topic of today’s video. I wanna walk you through a little bit about
    the different types of ChatterBaits, different sizes, different colors, that sort of thing. How to rig them, and then what kind of equipment
    to use, and then from there, I wanna show you different ways of fishing the ChatterBait. So, let’s start off with how to rig it. What type of baits to use? The most common one to use is a 3/8 ounce
    ChatterBait. This one is actually 1/2 ounce. I like them a little bit heavier because I
    like to fish them a little bit faster than most folks. But 3/8 ounce is a standard size go-to that
    most people fish. As far as colors are concerned, white and
    chartreuse, and black and blue are pretty much all the colors you need. You can go green/pumpkin if you want, as well,
    but you really don’t need a whole bunch of different colors with ChatterBaits. It’s primarily a reaction-type bait, so, you
    know, colors aren’t as much of a critical factor. As a general rule, the lighter the color it
    is, the lighter the light, the lighter the water is, the lighter the color you want. And the darker the color of the water, or
    the darker it is out there, the darker the lure. As a general rule. There’s exceptions all the time. What I always do is, hey, you know, it’s what
    the fish want. So, play around with the colors, and see what
    they want that day. I like to start off with white, and that’s
    typically what I stick with because I usually catch fish on white regardless. So, it’s just a matter of playing around though. If they don’t bite that, change colors. As far as trailers are concerned, you can
    see, I’ve got a paddle tail on this one right now. This is just a little 4.5-inch paddle tail
    swimbait that I have on it. You can use all kinds of trailers. I would encourage you to experiment with the
    different kind of trailers. You can use paddle tails. You can use grubs. You can even use worms. Craws are a real popular trailer to use on
    them. Just experiment and see what the fish want
    that day. I find that today they really want the paddle
    tail, so that’s what I’m fishing. So, one thing I like to do with the trailer,
    regardless of what type of trailer I have, is I like to dip the ends of it in chartreuse
    dye. Especially in the warmer months, because bluegill
    is a main staple of the bass’s diet during the warmer months. And that little chartreuse tail makes it look
    like a bluegill, so definitely do that with your bait. The other thing I want you to keep in mind
    is when you’re fishing with the ChatterBait, is make sure the hooks are sharp, especially
    if you’re throwing it around rocks and riprap and that sort of thing. If you just bounce it off the rocks a little
    bit, you can dull it in a heartbeat, and you won’t even know it. Won’t even feel like you hit it very hard,
    and you can dull it. So, check your hooks frequently, and make
    sure they’re super sharp. I even check the hooks right out of the package,
    brand new before I even throw it. And I make sure that they’re really sharp. If you’re not sure how to check your hooks,
    and you’re not sure how to get them sharp, I got a link down here at the bottom, underneath
    the video, for you to check out. I can sharpen hooks that are sharper than
    the manufacturer can, and I show you how to do that in this video. So, check that out. Make sure your hooks are sharp, and you’ll
    catch a lot more fish. Keri: There you go. There’s a big one. We got another ChatterBait fish. Glenn: Look at this guy. He’s mad. Keri: Look at that. ChatterBait! Glenn: There we go. Keri: Got a ChatterBait fish. Glenn: Right there. So, let’s talk a little bit about the equipment
    that we’re using here. This is real critical to successful ChatterBait
    fishing. What I’ve got here is a 7-foot medium heavy
    power rod, with fast-action tip. Real fast-action tip. I don’t know if you can see that. Let me show you. See that tip? Real fast. Almost an extra fast. That is ideal for fishing ChatterBait. Now, if you’ve got a spinnerbait rod, that’s
    perfect for fishing ChatterBaits. But the 7-foot medium heavy is pretty much
    a universal tool. You can use it for worm fishing, for ChatterBait,
    for paddle tail fishing. You can even use it for jig fishing. There’s even more. There’s a lot of uses you can use for a seven
    and a half medium heavy power rod. So, get yourself a couple of them and rig
    them up. But this is what you wanna use with a ChatterBait. With it, I’ve got the Revo SX baitcasting
    reel. This is an awesome reel for this. It’s a 6:6:1 gear ratio. And the reason I’m going with that instead
    of, like, a 7:3 or faster is, for the most part, your success with a ChatterBait is with
    a slower retrieve. And I’ll get into the retrieves in a minute,
    but the 6:6 enables me to keep it down, even if I get a little anxious and I start speeding
    up. It’s gonna keep that down to a slower speed. With this reel, also, it’s got a fantastic
    smooth drag. Real nice drag on it, and when you hook onto
    a fish, usually it’s a big one, and you need a good drag to be able to fight them back
    to the boat and not get them to tear the hook out of his mouth. I also have a real strong… The drag on is also very, very strong. It’s 24 pounds of drag. That is really unusual for bass fishing. Most reels for bass fishing are only like
    12 to 16 pounds on the drag, so 24 pounds is really stout for bass fishing. And that’s great because what I like to do
    is I fan cast this. I’ll fan cast it across big flats of weeds
    and submerged milfoil, for example, and just, you know, start at like the 11 o’clock position. And then my next cast would be 12, my next
    cast would be 1, and so on and so forth. Just covering water. And you make those really long casts, and
    so, when that fish is way out there, and he hits it on the end of a long cast, you need
    the drag to be down tight in order to set that hook with that much line out. And speaking about that line, I’ve got, here
    on, I’ve got 30-pound FireLine Ultra 8 line on this. And this is… It’s a little heavier than what most people
    fish ChatterBaits. Most people tend to go about 20 pounds. I go 30, and I got a little reason why, and
    I’ll show you that in a minute. But 30 is really good, and the FireLine here,
    because it’s a micro Dyneema fiber, it goes through the guides real smooth and that aids
    for long casts. So, again, as I mentioned, long casts on this
    are critical. So, real nice long cast with this line. It has no stretch, so, again, you can get
    good hook-setting power on those long casts. And pair that with this reel, which gives
    you a nice long cast as well, you’re gonna get that bait fired way out there and cover
    a lot more water than somebody else who’s not set up like this. So, be sure you get yourself one of these
    reels and pair it up with this FireLine. So, that’s the bait, and that’s the gear and
    equipment and how we do it. Now, I’ll show you how to fish it. [00:07:53]
    [silence] [00:08:34] Glenn: All right, so, let’s talk about the
    different ways you can retrieve a ChatterBait. Some of the different presentations. I think you’ll find it’s a little more versatile
    than you might think. However, let’s start off with a basic retrieve. And all’s that is, is casting out and winding
    it back, but what you wanna do is bring your rod tip down, and have it to the side. And that’s for two reasons. Number one, you’re in the hook-set position,
    so if a fish bites it, you’re ready to swing. If you got your rod tip way up here, there’s
    nothing left. You have nowhere to go to set the hook. So, make sure it’s down here. The other reason you have it down here and
    to the side is you can feel it a lot better. You can feel that bait vibrating through the
    water. It’s transmitting right up the rod, right
    to your hands, and you can feel it. Tick, tick, tick, tick, tick. If for any reason it stops ticking, there’s
    a little pause in it or it changes cadence, set the hook. Because that could be a fish. So, it’s critical that you feel it. If you’re pointing right at the lure while
    you’re reeling it back, you’re just connected to the reel and you’re not gonna feel that. So, make sure it’s down and to the side. You’ll have a better feel with it. The next retrieve… This is the one I like to do over the top
    of submerged weeds, is to burn it back. And for that, you may have to bring the rod
    tip up a little bit like this. Don’t bring it up all the way high, but bring
    it a little bit to the side, again. But you have to do it a little bit higher,
    and bring it back. See how fast I’m reeling that? Bring it back fast. And you bring it right over the tops of weeds. And what you’re doing is you’re gonna call
    the fish right out from those weeds. They’ll be buried up in it, maybe not even
    a biting mood. But you’ll elicit that strike by burning that
    right over their tops. They’ll come out and pounce on it. You can actually call them out from deep weeds
    that way. Great way to fish, but also when you got that
    rod tip high, if they hit it, that’s the key thing, again, having the strong drag and strong
    line. If they hit it, they’re gonna wanna go right
    back down in those weeds. And so you’ll be able to swing it up and keep
    your rod tip up here, and keep them above the weeds, and keep them from burying it down
    it. That’s, again, why I like this really strong
    drag, and I like this 30-pound FireLine because if they get wrapped in those weeds, I can
    still wrench them out. Now, there’s other reasons I have that setup,
    and I’ll talk to you that in a second. But the next one is the opposite of that. This is a nice, slow retrieve. Actually, it’s crawling in on the bottom. And what I like to do here is, sometimes what
    the bass will do is they’re feeding on bottom-feeding or bottom-foraging baits like a sculpin or
    a goby or something like that. And here, what I’m doing is I reel up, as
    you notice, I’m using the rod. And I just drag it with the rod, not the reel. And the reason for that is for feel. Again, you can feel the bite a lot better
    with the rod, than if you sat here and you just reeled it, you’re not gonna feel it as
    well. And you don’t have as much control. Again, if you’re doing it side like this,
    you have exact control of the speed of how it’s going on the bottom. With the reel, it’s kinda hard to imagine. If I’m just doing it with the reel, it’s kind
    of hard to tell how slow it’s going, right? You see what I’m getting at? This is a great way if the fish are just feeding
    on the bottom. It’s a good wintertime technique. And I do that a lot of times when the water
    temperature is below 50 degrees. You drag it on the bottom like that. There’s some fish are hugging the bottom and
    they’re feeding off those little sculpin. That’s a great way to fish this ChatterBait. Now, let me get to you another way that I
    fish it. This is why I’ve got that 30-pound line on
    it. This bait works really well just like you
    would use a jig. Flipping and pitching it. Literally just pitching it out there. Dropping it straight down like you would a
    jig, till it hits the bottom, and then lifting it back up, and letting it drop right back
    down. Follow it down with your rod. This works great throwing into heavy bushes,
    heavy cover, laydowns, logs. You just pitch it on out there, let it drop. Lot of times the bite is on the fall. And sometimes I’ve had it where you just sit
    it on the bottom, and then they’ll come pick it up and grab it. I’ve got a friend of mine that’s gonna be
    upset that I just showed you how to do it this way because he won a tournament doing
    it this way. But this is a great way to fish a ChatterBait,
    especially when everybody’s throwing jigs. It gives the bass a different look. If you’re going down the bank and you’re following
    somebody, and you can see his throwing a jig, pick up your ChatterBait and throw it this
    way, and I bet you’ll catch the fish that he left behind. So, keep that in mind. Keri: Wait. There you go. Glenn: Dead stickin’ the ChatterBait. Keri: Yep. Glenn: But it worked. Keri: Hey, it works. Dead stickin the ChatterBait. It works. Glenn: That’ll do the job. Glenn: One last tip I wanna tell you about
    is during the fall, late fall, and into the winter, one thing that a lot of guys don’t
    do, is we keep fishing to the shoreline. We’ll do that all the time because we’re used
    to that. Usually, the fish are up shallow, they’re
    up against some kind of cover, and we catch the fish that way. But during the winter time, and in the fall,
    late fall when they’re migrating out deeper, they’re gonna be out deeper. So, take your boat, position it up shallow,
    and now you’ll wanna cast out there. And do just similar, just like I kinda told
    you on dragging it, but a little bit different. You’re throwing it out there to just say that’s
    deeper water. You keep your rod tip down, to the side, and
    just slowly reel it. Kinda bumping along the bottom. Just bumping along, bumping along, and bringing
    it uphill. A lot of those fish are positioned down there,
    and they don’t see a presentation like that. They usually see them going out that way. Here, they’re not accustomed to it, and you’ll
    catch a lot of fish that way. They’re just not used to seeing it that way. Works really well in those colder months. Catch fish that way. As far as where you can fish it, I like to
    fish, like I mentioned, over the top of weeds, but also on the weed line edges. That’s a perfect area to be throwing it. Anywhere around docks, logs, laydowns, that
    sort of thing. And riprap. It works really well in riprap. What I like to do is bounce it off those rocks. And you can do it, again, if you’re bouncing
    off pier pilings, on piers, and on docks. Make sure you’re bouncing it off stuff and
    give it that erratic movement. But you gotta keep checking your hooks when
    you’re doing that because you don’t wanna dull them. But those are the different ways you can fish
    the ChatterBait. They’re very successful. I catch huge fish on them. This is why they’re wildly popular. Hope you got a lot out of this. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    Articles

    How To Fish A Frog For Big Fish (The Best Ways) | Bass Fishing

    October 8, 2019


    Glenn: Hey folks, Glenn May here of BassResource.com. And today, I want to talk to you about frog
    fishing. One of the most fun ways to catch bass is
    with frogs. Hollow body frogs specifically. That’s what I’m talking about. It can be really exciting. A lot of people enjoy fishing this way. So, I want to talk to you a little bit, first
    of all, how to rig these up and then how to fish them. So, first of all, what I got here is the Booyah
    Pad Crasher, and you can see that right here. The thing about this, notice the hooks. They’re right flush with the body. And you would think when then how does the
    fish get hooked, well, when he bites it, the body collapses, see its hollow body. Right? See that? The hooks become exposed and the fish gets
    hooked. Other than that, it’s pretty weightless which
    means you can throw in a lot of things without getting it snagged up on things. The other thing you wanna notice here is look
    how thick and heavy these hooks are. See that? Heavy-duty stuff. So, we need to rig accordingly. We’re gonna be throwing it in some heavy cover. And we need a powerful setup to be able to
    drive that thick hook into the fish’s mouth and keep that fish up away from the cover. And don’t let ’em dig and bury in it. So, the rod we have here, this is a 7 foot
    3-inch heavy rod, heavy power rod with a fast tip. You can go anywhere from, say, a 7 foot to
    a 7’8. Whatever you feel comfortable, there’s not
    really a hard set rule. I like a little bit shorter rods, so I’m on
    the little bit shorter end of that spectrum of the 7’3. You need a fast tip because you needed to
    be able to throw this frog way out there. You usually fishing large flats of matted
    vegetation, matted cover, so it’s fan-casting. What I mean by fan-casting is you make a cast
    on the 10 o’clock position, do your retrieve. The next cast is at the 11 o’clock. The next cast is at 12, and so on and so forth. You’re covering a very careful selective pattern
    but because it’s a big vast of matted weeds, you’ve gotta get it fired way out there and
    fish it thoroughly. So, you need a rod tip that’s gonna throw
    it out there. I’ve got paired with it 50-pound Seaguar Kanzen
    line. And there’s a real specific reason why I’m
    using this. First of all, braided line is…it’s buoyant. I don’t wanna say it floats but it’s buoyant. And so that’s gonna help keep this frog above
    the surface. You don’t want any line that can sink and
    bring it down. Second, it’s 50-pound because once you get
    above that 50-pound mark, it’s a little harder to cast. It inhibits especially limits the casting
    distance. So, a 65-pound braid or higher… like I said
    you’re making long casts, and that sort of goes against the grain for frog fishing. So, I keep it at 50-pound. I’m also using the Kanzen line rather than,
    say, Seaguar Smackdown because Kanzen, it’s a thicker diameter braid. It has less…or it has more water resistance. It has more surface tension. So again, it helps keep it above the…floating
    on the surface. Smackdown is a really thin diameter line,
    great for low-vis situations but we’re not worried about that, in this case. We’re making a lot of commotion with this
    frog so the fish are going to be honing in on this. So, Kanzen is the perfect candidate for frog
    fishing. With it, I’ve got here the Kast Assassin. KastKing Assassin reel. I’m not so concerned about gear ratio speed
    on it. Now, I know a lot of guys like really fast
    gear ratio 7:3:1 or higher. They believe that if you…the fish blows
    up on a frog, you can reel it in a lot faster and fire back out and try to get that fish
    again. Here this is a 6:3:1 gear ratio. And there’s not a whole heck of a lot of difference
    between 6:3 and 7:1 when you’re reeling in as fast as you can. When you’re reeling really fast, it’s maybe
    half a second difference, not a whole lot. Back in the day, it shows you how long I’ve
    been fishing, decades ago, all the rage was low gear ratio reels especially for flipping
    and pitching when it first came out. That was what a lot of people went to. I’m talking 4:3:1, 3:5:1. Real low because they had a lot of torque,
    a lot of power. And the thought was that’s what you need to
    wrench those fish. This is basically a winch. That’s what you need to get those fish out
    of the cover. Nowadays, it’s kind of…you kind of hard
    pressed to find a reel that’s under 6:1:1 gear ratio. So in this case, 6:3:1. I like that, I like that power for fishing
    and some heavy-duty slop. So, you want that…you want a little more,
    ummph, you know, to get that fish out of that cover. The more important thing about it, a reel
    selection in this is the drag. This has 16 and a half pounds of drag. Most reels that come on the market today are
    around 11, 12 pounds. There’re some reels that have more drag than
    that. This isn’t the only one that’s got a lot of
    drag power too it, but that’s what you wanna look for. Something above, say, 15 pounds of drag. Again, when the fish buries up in those weeds,
    you need something to wrench it out, and if you’ve got a drag that’s only 11, 12 pounds
    that’s gonna be tough for you. So, drag is more important, in this case,
    than gear ratio in my opinion. All right. So that’s the setup. Now, let me talk a little bit about how to
    fish it. Keri: There you go. Glenn: There we go. Boy, I had to wait. There we go. That’s a decent fish. Keri: Frog Fish! Glenn: A mouthful of frog. A mouthful of frog, look at that. See that? See that? That’s the key folks. When you’re…when you’re fishing frogs, you
    gotta wait for it. Don’t set the hook right away when they blow
    up on it. That fish right there, you blew up on it and
    I waited and waited and waited until I saw the line swimming off. And then I tightened down on just to make
    sure he had a good bite it and set the hook. What you wanna do is have a little bit of
    slack in that. So, if you let it tighten up too much and
    set the hook, you just gonna pull his head. So, in one swift motion, drop the rod tip
    and yank really hard. It’s like cracking a whip. By throwing that slack in there, you can drive
    these big, thick hooks right into his face. Gotcha, buddy. All right, let’s let you go. Going down over here. The first thing about the Booyah Pad Crasher
    to know is it’s kind of…it’s belly weighted. It’s got a little keel to it, so when you
    throw it it almost always lands right on its stomach, which is great. You want it to float the correct way. And that’s the key to it. It floats. Use that to your advantage, guys. If you’re throwing it down just cranking it
    back in, then you’re not using the hollow body frog the way it’s designed. They float, which means you can let it sit
    in one spot for a long period of time. That’s what it’s for. That’s the type of fishing we’re doing here. You wanna throw it out there, let it sit. You don’t even bring, reel it in. Just let it sit for a little while and then
    slowly bring it back, make a little bit of disturbance on the water. I’d like to twitch the reel handle a little
    bit, twitch the rod a little bit to give a little action and then pause, and let it sit. And I’ll let it bake there for 10, 15 seconds,
    may be more. If I’m fishing heavy matted cover, I’ll get
    it over to like a spot that’s open, like a little opening and let it sit, up to a minute. Don’t even move it. Just let it sit for a minute and then give
    it a little twitch with your rod tip and let it sit a long time again. My retrieves can last 5, 6 minutes on one
    cast. You just work it very, very slowly because
    that’s the whole thing behind a floating frog like this. It’s not gonna get hung up in those weeds,
    and it’s gonna sit there and float. You can just bug a fish. You can basically entice him into biting. I like to throw it also in flooded bushes,
    flooded timber, in and around that. I’ll work it through that area, find a little
    pocket and let it sit right in there and just twitch it. Keri: There you go. Glenn: There we go. Keri: What did I say? Glenn: Right here. Oh boy, come here. Come here, honey. You ate that thing. Both hooks. With both hooks, look at that. Look at that. Both hooks right in its face. Think he wanted that? Again, just waiting. Let him blow up on it. Give it a second or two, reel it down. If you see the line swimming off, it starts
    to tighten up, crack that whip. Nice frogfish. Right there. Let’s let this guy go. Sometimes what’s really fun, throw it over
    a little branch of a bush or a tree. Throw over the branch, let it hang there. You can just dip it. Dip it up and down. Let it sit in the water a little bit, then
    pick it back up and plop it right back down in place. And that can annoy a fish to death and he’ll
    end up smacking it. I mean, just think about ways that you can
    work a lure in place, that’s how you want to work a frog. Now, that said, you do wanna create a disturbance
    on the matted vegetation. Say, matted hydrilla, matted milfoil, and
    this right out of the box is not too heavy of a lure. And you gotta make a disturbance, and when
    that vegetation is really matted thick over, this is just gonna come up, you’ll know the
    difference. You throw it out there, just kind of pulling
    across the top. It’s not even making any disturbance at all
    on the surface. Well, here’s the trick that I like to do. Go to Walmart, get yourself some BBs, just
    like you would for a Daisy BB gun. With this frog, you can take it and flip it
    around. Grab the hooks and just flip it around like
    this, so it’s flipped over. Now, if you notice here, look at that hole,
    see that? You’ve got a little hole right there. You can put the BBs in right there. So, what I like to do is just drop a few in
    there, maybe 5 or 10 BBs, not a whole lot, doesn’t take much. But what you’re doing is you’re giving a little
    bit of weight so it creates a little more disturbance on the surface. And you just flip the hooks back around like
    I just did, and you’re good to go. You might have to go as much as, say, 15 or
    20 BBs but really that’s an extreme case. That puts or gives about an ounce and a half
    weight, so that’s a pretty heavy bait. But give it just a little bit of weight like
    that and that’s going to create that disturbance that those fish need when they’re sitting
    up underneath those weeds to hone in on this bait. One more thing I wanna talk about is the color. Believe it or not color can make a difference. I know a lot of people think the fish is looking
    up and all they see is a shadow. I’ve seen a difference when I’m going to a
    color like this, to more of a multicolored, like it’s a frog pattern. So it’s more of a camo pattern or just a straight
    white belly. I have noticed when fish are coming up and
    looking at it and swimming away from it, or they blow up on it but they’re not taking
    it. Just change the color and that will get them
    to commit and you’ll end up catching a lot of fish. So, I hope those tips help. For more tips and tricks and for the answers
    to all your questions about bass fishing, visit BassResource.com.

    7 Best Bass Lures That Work Year Round | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    7 Best Bass Lures That Work Year Round | Bass Fishing

    October 4, 2019


    Hey folks, Glenn May here at BassResource.com. And one of the problems I see all the time
    on our forums and people asking me questions is, what kind of lure should they get? Especially, if you’re starting out, or if
    you’re on a budget, or maybe you’ve been on hiatus for a while and you’re just coming
    back into bass fishing. There’s so many choices and so many different
    ways to catch fish. And everybody talks about how great they are,
    it’s really confusing, it can be frustrating when you’re at the tackle store trying to
    figure out what to buy. So, I’m gonna give you the top seven lures
    that you should focus on. And, really, the main theme here is focusing
    on versatility and lures that can be fished year round. The more you focus on that, then the more
    you can make your budget go a long way and you’ll be able to catch fish no matter what
    condition that you’re in, be it weeds, be it docks, be it rocks, be it deep water, clear
    water, muddy water, windy days, cloudy days, days that there’s no wind at all, hot days,
    cold days, whatever. Get that these seven lures that I’m about
    to outline for you are the most versatile lures that you can have in your tackle box,
    and you need to have them in order to catch fish. All right, so the first one is actually the
    hands-down champion of all lures, and that’s the jig. I have tons of them, but here’s a couple of
    them. The thing about the jigs, you can fish them
    year-round in every sort of depth, every condition you can think of. You can fish around 40, 50 feet of water,
    even deeper, all the way up to a couple of feet of water during the summer time. You can drag them. You can hop them. You can swim them. You can do pretty much anything with them,
    with the different weights here. And in the summertime when there’s thick weeds,
    you can get a heavy duty one, that’s, you know, a three-quarter ounce or an ounce, punch
    it through the weeds. There’s finesse jigs like these, perfect for
    when the bite is slow or largemouth like these two. There’s so many different kinds of jigs out
    there, but the reason being is that they’re so effective. If you only have one lure in your boat, you’ve
    gotta have a jig. Okay, next on our list is the crankbait. There’s so many different crankbait styles
    out there, but that’s for a good reason. They catch fish. Now, in the wintertime, you’re gonna wanna
    go to something with a slim profile, with a narrow bill. This type of bait right here, that’s what
    you wanna go with. It’s got a tighter wiggle. That works really well in the winter time. As the water warms up, then you can go to
    something with a little bit deeper dive. There’s a round bill with a little bit longer
    bill on it and go a little bit deeper. And it has a wider wobble. That’s the main thing about this. It’s wider than the crankbait I just showed
    you and it has more of a wobble, a wider side to side and this a real tight wiggle. This works better when it’s warmer, works
    better when it’s colder, colder water temperature. And then as the fish get deep in the summertime
    you want to go after them, get something like that. Look at the bill on that. That’s gonna go nice and deep and go after
    them right where they’re at. That’s why these crankbaits work so well. You can also have different types of bills
    for the different kind of cover you’re fishing in. For example, square bills, these are designed… Oh, they’re called square bills for a reason. Look at that, it’s a square bill. These are designed to deflect off of wood
    and other types of cover and the hooks won’t get hung up on them. So you can fish it in some thicker stuff than
    you normally would not worry about the hooks getting snagged. Then, they have hybrids of these things. You’ve got the round bill. The round bill dives deeper, like I just mentioned. And then in between is the coffin bill, and
    that’s what this is, the coffin bill is kind of a good combination of the two. You can still go deep with this, but it will
    also bounce and deflect off of cover woodies, covers especially without the hooks getting
    hung up. So there’s a lot of different types of crankbait
    styles you can fish for the variety conditions that you find yourself under, but that’s the
    key thing, you can dig in and get those fish regardless of where they’re hiding year round. That’s why the crankbait’s on this list. All right, the next bait on the list is the
    jerk bait. Absolutely killer throughout the entire year. Now, I know some of you are gonna be really
    surprised about that because most…well, not most, but a lot of guys think jerk baits
    are only used in colder water temps, usually in the early spring. That’s a mistake. You should be fishing them year round. I fish them all year round. I catch lots of fish on them every season. I truly believe the reason why people aren’t
    catching fish other than in the early spring with jerk baits is simply because they’re
    not fishing them. You can fish them very fast in the summertime. The rule of thumb in the summertime is that
    you can’t fish them too fast, just jerk, jerk, jerk, jerk, bring them back really quick across
    the surface. You can let a pause for a long amount of time,
    you can stop it whenever you want to and bring it back even faster to vary your cadence,
    vary your speed. One way I like to fish it, is just throw it
    out there and then give it like three quick jerks and let it sit, let it come all the
    way back up to the surface and let it sit for a while then jerk, jerk, jerk. Let it sit for a while. Fish sometimes will annihilate it when it’s
    just sitting on the surface and it’s 95 degrees out and sunny. It works great. And in the wintertime, they make deeper diver
    once like this with a big bill and they suspend. That’s perfect for when the water temperature’s
    really cold for me about 50 degrees or below. I’ll throw it out there and it dives down
    7, 10 feet and it just sits, and sits, and sits until a fish will come out and grab it. They might move a little bit upwards, a little
    bit downwards depending on the model that you get, but it works really well for catching
    those lethargic fish in the wintertime. So jerk baits, fish them year around and you’ll
    catch a lot more fish. Next on the list of must-have lures is the
    craw worm, craws. Gotta have these, they’re gonna come in different
    colors, there’s different styles and varieties. Matter of fact, they even come in many sizes. This is great year-round fish no matter where
    they are. They feed on crawfish all the time. In all but the coldest part of the year, that’s
    when crawfish are active. They’re protein-rich, great slow-moving snacks
    that the bass just love to eat. So anytime you’re in a warmer…well, except
    for like the dead of winter, you can fish them as jig trailers, that’s perfect for that. You can fish them on just a Texas rig, put
    them through the weeds, and then the rocks. Shaky head works really well during the winter
    time, but bringing down deep and drag it real slow. I like to put on football head jigs and get
    it around rocks and such. There’s so many different ways to fish them,
    it’s really limited to your imagination. Works on split shot, works on Carolina rigs. There’re so many different ways to do it,
    to get at the depth where the fish are at, where they’re actively feeding. That’s really the key. Figure out what depth they’re in. In the wintertime and the summertime they’re
    gonna be deeper. In the springtime and then the fall they’re
    gonna be a little more shallow. Be buried up in those weeds for example. And you gotta go and dig them out. Craw’s a great slim profile bait that’s not
    gonna get hung up on those weeds. It’s a great way to go in and dig them out. Get some craws in your tackle box, boys, and
    go out there and catch some fish. All right, next on the list of must-have lures,
    the spinnerbait, my favorite. Spinnerbaits are so versatile year round. This one’s got a Willowleaf blade on. This one’s a Colorado blade on it. You can fish them in any part of the water
    column. I always have one tied on and on my deck year
    round. You can fish big three quarter-ounce ones
    like these real slow and drag them on the bottom, slow roll them when it’s really cold
    out, the water temperature is 42 degrees and the fish just really lethargic you can drag
    this right behind them and get a reaction strike. You can fish them as faster through weeds
    and not get hung up with a willowleaf blade like this. This one is only a three quarter spinnebait. In the summertime, it’s great to burn a wreck
    near the top, bulge the surface. Even a big bait like this, you can bulge the
    surface on the summertimes. It’s almost like a buzz bait. You can fish them around wood, weeds, rocks,
    docks, anything and not worry about getting hung up so much because this is like a big
    weed guard here. The wire here works to prevent that hook from
    getting hung up. It’s a great lure to have tied on all the
    time, as long as it’s white. Okay, that’s my preference. But white with a trailer, that’s how I like
    to fish it. Tie directly, by the way. Don’t use snap swivels or anything like that,
    just tie directly to it. I use a uni knot, some folks like to use palomars. Either way is fine, whatever your preference
    is. The point is, tie one on and use it throughout
    the whole year. You’re gonna catch a lot of fish. All right, next on the list that you gotta
    have, finesse worms. Right here, look at that. Finesse worms are killer year round. You’ve got to use these things. They’re very, very versatile. In the wintertime, you can fish them on a
    split shot or on a shaky head and just drag it on the bottom real slow. In the summertime, say for example one like
    this, you can put it in a wacky rig, throw it out there around docks, twitch it back
    really fast. You can put this on a little jig head and
    throw it up in those docks and lilly pads. In the summertime, put it on a drop shot,
    fish it deep, just nose hook it right here on the end and give a little bit of wiggle. There’s a lot you can do with finesse worms
    all year long to catch those finicky fish. You’ve gotta have this especially when a cold
    front comes through and the fish really don’t wanna feel like biting. All those other lures I’ve shown you so far,
    not the best choice. But when it comes, when the bite’s really
    tough you gotta have these in your tackle box. Another must-have in your tackle box has to
    be the lipless crankbait. These babies…they work all the time. The cool thing about these is, because of
    their shape, you can fish them at any depth and at any speed, which is great for matching
    the activity level of the bass and where they’re located. You can drag them really deep down the water
    column and just yoyo them off the bottom. You can burn them really quick across the
    top in the summertime over weed beds and entice those fish to come up out of the weed bed
    and strike them. You can fish them around docks. You can stop and go retrieve on them. You can do all sorts of things where they’re
    very, very versatile, which is why you wanna have these tied on. They’re different colors, so you can match
    the bait fish with the color of the forage that the fish are feeding on. And they come in different weights and sizes,
    so you can adjust your speed and depth as well that way. So such a versatile lure, you’re limiting
    yourself if you don’t have some of these in your tackle box. And there you have it, the top seven baits
    that you need to have in your tackle box in order to catch fish year round. Notice they’re all very versatile and you
    can fish them in variety of conditions, each and every one of them. You can fish them in docks, you can fish them
    in weeds, you can fish them in rocks and deep water, shallow water, hot water, cold water,
    that’s the point. Get these lures in your tackle box, and you’ll
    be a extremely versatile angler and you won’t have to spend a fortune in order to fill out
    your tackle. For more tips and tricks like these, visit
    BassResource.com.