Browsing Tag: boating


    How to Clean the Bottom of a Sailboat Underwater! (Tips from the Pros #4 /Patrick Childress #54)

    December 9, 2019

    your boat doesn’t have to come out of
    the water looking like this on sailboat ‘Brick House’ we’ll show you how we clean
    our bottom and then we’ll go to Hank Schmitt from Offshore Passage Opportunities to give his tips from the pros number four how to keep your bottom
    clean. Hello I’m Patrick Childress in over twelve years of living on our
    sailboat Brick house Rebecca and I have never found a bottom paint that does
    what it’s supposed to do what the advertising says that it will do
    we’ve always ended up having to scrub the bottom much sooner than ever expected so we
    normally use a hookah and up here we’ll put a link to video number 12 which
    shows how we use the hookah for scrubbing the bottom especially after
    we’ve been sitting for several months in one harbor and the marine growth really
    does accumulate and at the end of this video will show you some underwater
    scenes from that video but Hank Schmitt from offshore passage opportunities has
    a very good system for using a scuba tank which you don’t have to strap to
    your back and be so encumbered under the water so he’s going to show us how to
    start with scrubbing the waterline and then go deeper using the scuba tank and
    not wear it into the water okay so we’re getting set up to go ahead and clean the
    bottom of the boat I’ve been cleaning bottoms for about the last 25 or 30 years
    and at first we’d set up like most divers with a BC jacket and and
    regulator and all the weight belts and everything but I found it was much
    easier just to have a tank and a long 25-30 foot hose which I’ll set up right
    here in the middle of the boat and if you have a dinghy you could also put it
    in your dinghy but this keeps you from having to get a BC jacket and the weight
    belt when it’s time to clean your bottom and you’ll see how we can actually clean
    most of the bottom and we’ll demonstrate that in a little bit just by
    having the tank set up in the middle of the boat. we open it up so it’s
    ready for us we all the way open and back a little bit and I’ll just leave it
    right here in the middle I’ll go ahead and get set up to enter the water and as
    you’ll see I can clean most of the boat without having to use the tank and I
    just have that ready for me when I need it so I’ll go in the water and it’s all
    set to go when I need that for cleaning the prop for the bottom of the keel
    maybe the bottom of the rudder we’re gonna go ahead and get in the water now
    and we’ll show you how you can clean your boat pretty much about as big as
    forty forty five feet without using a tank if you didn’t have a tank if you
    weren’t certified but of course having a tank makes it certainly easier for
    cleaning off your prop or the bottom of your keel but really to clean the bottom of your boat
    the water isn’t that cold you don’t need a wetsuit or anything you just need a
    few things so we’re gonna go in with our swim fins
    a scraper of course for getting any barnacles or anything if you have
    barnacles on the bottom of your boat or anything then you really should you just
    be hauling the boat out and painting it a diver is not to keep from having to
    paint your boat once a year or once every two years for scrubbies they’re
    actually three different grades of scrubby’s one is like a sponge almost
    and that’s when you’re racing or you keep it clean a lot then the red want a
    little bit more abrasive and then you might be familiar with the black ones
    which are really for cleaning your barbeque grill and if you have to use a
    black one again I would usually just tell the owner of the boat save the
    money that I would charge you for diving and putting it towards a short haul so
    you shouldn’t have to be taking barnacles off the bottom of your boat if
    you have barnacles on the bottom you vote you need to paint but I know our
    bottom is not that bad so I’ll be able to use the lightest grade scrubby you
    can you don’t want to use anything more abrasive because then you’re taking the
    bottom paint off and again bottom paint as you know is very expensive 250 to 400
    dollars a gallon so the idea isn’t to put it on and then scrape it all off so
    again you want to use the the lightest scrub you can also very important are
    the suction cups because again imagine you’re in the water and as you’re
    cleaning the boat you’re pushing yourself away so they sell these at your
    marine supply stores also any glazier windows they also have suction cups for
    moving big pieces of glass so you want suction cups I put a line on there so I
    don’t lose that and then I’ll just have the scrubby on the other side I do use
    gloves again for barnacles you don’t want to scrape your hands if it’s really
    cold water you’d want to use a wetsuit but it’s not too cold today so just swim
    fins again if you want you can use booties my booties are more worn out
    than my gloves so I don’t use booties anymore and up here where the water’s
    dirtier I do like to put on a hoodie as well with a mask just any any mask I
    don’t use the snorkel at all because again I’m gonna be holding my breath
    cleaning the bottom of the boat and coming back up and you’ll see that
    demonstration in a little bit so again you don’t need a lot of a lot of tooling
    a minute ago you saw we set up our tank so we don’t have to worry about a BC a
    buoyancy control jacket or a weight belt even you’ll have enough with the suction
    cups to be able to take care of that so you’ll eliminate a lot of gear a lot of
    maintenance without the BC jacket so just a tank, a tank and long hose in the middle of
    the boat or you keep it your dinghy in the middle of the boat and I’ll just
    need that really for cleaning anything off the prop or the bottom of the keel
    so with that we’ll get suited up and see you in the water
    okay so I’m all suited up with my stickems – my suction cups…and hopefully I’ll get
    away with just my sponge type and I leave my other scrubby and my my putty
    knife near me so I could reach it when I’m in the water so just go in make sure
    you hold your mask okay we are in the water I generally
    like to start at the bow you see just okay so you could see the contrast where
    it was already cleaned and where it’s not and basically it’s my suction cups
    in one hand and I’m right-handed so I have this scrubby in the other and I’m
    just doing wipe wipe I hold my breath as I go down get to the middle of the
    bottom of the boat then work my way up the other side and I just continue that
    and that way I can do probably 90% of the boat without the having to use the
    tank or the regulator so it saves you from using a lot of air so when I was
    commercial diving I could do eight or ten bottoms with one tank so I wouldn’t have
    to make as many runs to do it and again if you’re out cruising around you don’t
    have to go and get your bottle filled as often. They do sell smaller pony bottles
    which you could probably do the whole boat bottom with just a small five or
    ten-minute pony bottle because again you only need it for your keel and for
    your your running gear your prop and your shaft if you have any barnacles
    there so it’s really just hold my breath wipe wipe….. and i come up again…work on down, more wipe wipe I don’t even have to hold my breath on
    the top. And I head back down. And i just keep going, all the way around. Probably once every 2 month if you’re not racing if you are racing then you
    might want to do it before each race. Very simple.
    okay so I’ve cleaned 80% – 90% of the bottom I have my regulator set up
    25-foot hose connected to the tank on deck. It could be on your Dinghy I just pull the
    hose down now because I’m ready to clean the bottom of the keel then I’ll get the
    putty knife and I’ll go ahead and clean the the strut, the prop, and the
    shaft and then we’re all done so I only need this for the last part of the last
    part of the cleaning the bottom. Thank You Hank I hope this video was
    worthwhile for you if it was please give it a thumbs up and also click on the
    subscribe button if you haven’t already also there is a link to the tip jar in
    the video description if you don’t mind helping out in that
    direction now here’s some of those scenes from when we were anchored for
    three months in Sri Lanka (cleaning the hull, cleaning the chain, cleaning the prop on the bottom of our sailboat Brick House) Propspeed from Oceanmax worked great for 2 years, so it made cleaning our bottom a lot easier than before. After 2 years, we are applying it again (hauled out now for Coppercoat, Propspeed and more)

    How We Spent over $16,000 in the Boat Yard
    Articles, Blog

    How We Spent over $16,000 in the Boat Yard

    December 8, 2019

    Recently we encountered a problem that
    was initially to take two to three weeks and around 2000 euros to fix. In
    reality it cost around four and a half months and over 16 thousand euros. This is
    the story of our nightmare haul out. This is a situation that I don’t
    completely understand and I’m not sure how much of it is my own ignorance, lost
    in translation, laziness, happenstance or actual malice,
    but to quote to Napoleon Bonaparte “I want to never ascribe to malice that
    which is adequately explained by incompetence”, and Tim Ferriss added, “or
    busyness”, and I would like to add or laziness. Never ascribe to malice that
    which is adequately explained by incompetence, busyness or laziness. That
    being said I’d like to lay out this situation as objectively as I possibly
    can in the hopes that we might all learn something. To set the stage the three of
    us set out from Spain close to 10 months ago. As to be expected from life as we
    were moving forward we encountered many obstacles that together we overcame.
    Mistakes were made and lessons were learned but entering into Croatia we see
    the first signs of real trouble. The other day we lost reverse gear. Went to
    put it in gear and it wasn’t there. Scavenger Jack signing out. Jackson had to
    catch his flight to North America to finish his degree in filmmaking
    while Tara and I head north towards Pula Croatia where we are scheduled to film with Made On The Road UK and have a Balkan campervan scheduled for rental to
    explore Croatia. We made a stop on the island of Mali Losinj where friends of
    Alessandro came and diagnosed the problem with the gearbox.
    These are lamella. They allow you to shift into forward, into neutral, and into
    reverse by gripping and not gripping the gears. The ones in this gearbox…It’s like a polish you know and that’s enough that under the pressure he don’t have a grip to make good connection
    for the reverse. We were told we should prepare for a rebuild of the
    transmission. Not having reverse is a big problem, but it’s not the end of
    the world because we could still move forward so we continued north to our
    obligations in Pula. This is where it starts to get weird.
    We contacted Ad Maris in Marina Veruda in Pula, Croatia. Patrick came to the boat
    and told us that it would greatly reduce the cost of time, labor, and headache to
    have the whole engine removed rather than struggle in the cramped engine bay
    with a big heavy gearbox for hours BUT this would necessitate a haul out.
    Initially we thought this idea was absurd but then we came to the
    conclusion that if we could spend a few weeks on land we could make some needed
    repairs and upgrades to Arianrhod now instead of the original plan was at some
    point in the distant future to have a haul out in Tunisia Africa, which is
    where Martin recommended. We also had a van for a week so this meant that we
    could leave Arianrhod on land in a safe secure location while we explored
    Croatia. The idea was beginning to look all right. The next morning, as we were
    making breakfast, Patrick called and 45 minutes later he and this boat
    arrived and they were ready to take us to the crane for a haul out. The pressure
    of this sales tactic is intense. We agreed to the haul out. This is
    turning out to be an eventful day. Within two hours Arianrhod was out
    of the water and the engine was completely detached and she was prepped
    for open engine surgery. The following day Adis, Patrick’s boss, and his crew
    arrived and we commenced the engine removal. Before noon her old battered, but still
    solid heart was removed and the gearbox was on its way for inspection. It was
    also determined that we needed a new clutch and that the parts would be
    difficult to find. We’ll send the gearbox to Rijeka. We will check if we can find the new part because we don’t have new parts this old. Returning to the gutted vessel slightly
    dazed we cleaned out the engine bay as best as we could. This is where the
    situation becomes really muddled. Adis. Comes and tells us that they don’t think
    that they can repair the gearbox because it’s an old engine and it’s impossible
    to find the parts and if they can find the parts it will cost around 8,000 euro
    to rebuild the gearbox and fix everything. His solution was instead of
    repairing it, it might be wiser to just shell out another five thousand euro to
    purchase a brand new Yanmar engine from him, of course, with a warranty for
    security for the years to come. We would be back on the water in three weeks and
    it would cost just over thirteen thousand euros. Now he made some good
    points. The engine is old and the parts for it can be difficult to find and
    it’s arguable whether or not a new engine is more reliable. The question
    really becomes if you plan on crossing the Atlantic and beyond, do you want an
    old repaired engine or do you want a brand new one? This was very difficult to
    hear and I turned to Reddit and I found a complete Kanzaki KH 18 gearbox in the
    USA to replace ours. It could be purchased for $1000, but
    shipping, importing, installation, all said and done it would cost near eight to
    nine thousand dollars. We also looked seriously into converting to electric as
    the dream is to one day be completely off of fossil fuels. We’re going to a
    factory to look at electric motors. But it seemed for us it was going to cost, at a minimum, of 12,000 euros. Meanwhile we asked Adis if we
    could have our gearbox returned because I wanted to see if we could find
    somebody else to fix it. We were returned a box of gears, not a gearbox. I’m still
    not sure how I feel about that. We ended up going with the Beta Marine 38 horsepower
    engine over our other seemingly less ideal options. With the decision this
    costly I was definitely not gonna let somebody pressure me into purchasing an
    engine that I was not completely on board with. We ended up flying to Morocco for two weeks because we needed a change of atmosphere. We returned and we continued on repairs
    while we waited for the new engine. We got a new Genoa. A new sail, a Genoa.
    We shredded the other one. And all the sail makers said that, “well, you could repair it, but it’ll definitely break again really soon.” Because it’s been repaired multiple times. So this one made by a professional sail maker here in Pula, Elvis. Genoa with the Sunbrella. It’s got this here to tension the foot. We removed and reinforced the davit
    plates. We extended the davits aft 30 centimeters as well as added cross
    supports all completed by Robert. I stripped roughly 20 kilograms of unused
    electrical wire and hose from Arianrhod. We saved maybe five kilograms as supplies
    and cleaned up the distribution panel. It took me two and a half days to buff Arianrhod And we completed many other smaller projects. It ended up taking
    around seven weeks for the Beta Marine engine to arrive and once we knew it was
    coming we were moved into position so the crane could access Arianrhod. This is our new engine. Wow. It’s really pretty. A quick aside we
    were never able to sell our wounded but functioning Yanmar 3qm 38 engine because
    we didn’t have papers for it. To me it seems like if you live in Western
    society specifically the European Union then you live in a society that values
    documentation over form and function and this hinders creativity and I do not
    believe that a socio-economic system that squashes individual creativity will
    endure, but I digress. Because the engine was delayed by two weeks it arrived
    three days after the workers at the marina took off for holiday. Because in
    Europe it is common for many people to take a couple months off of work in the
    winter. Adis told us that he would not help us and instead we should try to
    find somebody else to help us because he would be on holiday, but all the
    mechanics were on holiday, and so the only help that Adis actually provided was
    a number for a contact in Split. A man named Igor who we bought our Beta Marine
    engine from and then after that we never saw or heard from Adis again. I had resolved to install the engine.
    I removed the old coupling and I found that the propeller shaft was 32
    millimeters in diameter and our new coupling is made for a 30 millimeter
    propeller shaft. We need to remove the propeller shaft and turn it on a lathe
    to reduce the diameter by 2 millimeters. I do not have access to a metal shop and
    I do not have the tools to pull a propeller. Finally I contacted Robert who
    had made adjustments to our davits. He agreed to reduce the shaft, replace the
    Cutlass bearing stuffing box, seacock strainer basket, and install and align the
    engine all for 2000 euro plus materials. We thought this was a bit steep but we
    agreed as we had finally found someone to help us. So then, does this corrode? No.
    Because you have the zinc on it? Bronze doesn’t corrode. Doesn’t corrode.
    Agh, I did not know that. It’s been four months and three days and
    today we are installing a new engine. It’s like a hundred and thirty eight
    kilos which is around 60 kilos lighter than previously. Slowly down. Little bit more. Little bit. Good. Stop. Going back. Okay. Slow. Little bit down. Stop. Okay, we can proceed. Go, go, go. Stop? No, go down. Down. Down. Stop. Little bit up. Up just a little bit. Stop. Stop. So far, so good. Pull it out and cut the tube a little bit
    maybe five centimeters and cut the shaft. So, here’s the problem. This is too close. We
    have an adapter, a rubber adapter, it’s about five centimeters has to fit in
    there and there’s no space between here and this is the coupling, the
    transmission, the stuffing box. This pipe right here this through-hole we need to
    cut that and then move this stuffing box aft maybe five centimeters and then we
    have to cut the propeller shaft so that it’s the correct length and then we can
    have this space in between here the two couplings so that we will be able to
    attach on, but the alignment looks good. We need five extra centimeters here. We’re good up front. Now the back. Yes, but put away the…take them out? Yes. Okay and then now I’m going inside and you must stay up here then we pull out the motor. Forward. Yes, a little bit. Okay, stop. This we must cut. Yep. Eight
    centimeter. Eight centimeters. You’re hot. They say maybe it’s hot and it’s
    going…yeah, expanded? Yes. Without hammer, nothing. I’ll be fluent in Croatian in no time. Doran? Is that what you said? Down? No, down is dolje. See. Told you. Fluent in Croatian, no problem. Dolje. What’s up? I mean that everything will be perfect. Perfect. Yes, everything will be fine. Engine installed. Now just to do proper alignment, secure it down, and then hook it up. Should be ready to start up tomorrow.
    I think we’ll give it a test start. We installed the raw water
    cooling system and the fuel lines. Then we realized the exhaust system
    needs to be adjusted with a high-rise. That right there that’s the problem.
    Otherwise it would run the risk of water entering back into the engine and
    blowing a cylinder from the rapid expansion of the water vapor. The next
    day we added oil and coolant and we hooked up a new battery and tried to
    start the engine for the first time. Robert created a custom high-rise for
    around 200 euro. The other option was to wait four weeks and spend over 300 euro
    to get one from Igor. We installed the high-rise and tested the engine while
    supplementing fresh water for the raw water cooling system. We used a temporary
    transparent exhaust tube to be certain that all the water was straining into
    the water log. Woo! Woo-hoo! I couldn’t stand the thought of throwing
    the old Yanmar out and instead gave it to Robert. We determined it was time to
    launch Arianrhod. After four and a half months of
    bleeding money and suffering stagnation we watched in amazement as Arianrhod
    was put back in the water. As soon as we were in the water we
    started the engine and checked for leaks. Alright, starting the motor for the first water test. Ready? Ready. Stop. Give it just a little bit of throttle, Tara. What? No, no, they asked if they can put away the…crane? The crane. And then, we’re good? Yes. Water don’t come in. We were then promptly shoo’ed off the dock before we
    were settled in. We were literally being pushed off the dock and told to go find
    a slip as it was raining and the wind was blowing around ten knots. They told us
    they needed the space immediately to lift another boat, which they lifted an
    hour and a half later. Once safely in our slip Robert helped us install our
    long-awaited Cubic Mini Wood Stove. We thanked Robert for his honesty, his hard
    work, and his flexibility and then we prepared to set sail. The period from September 2018 to January 2019 was one of the most
    stressful and by far the most expensive period of my life but that’s good
    because I learned a slew of invaluable lessons. Here are three of the
    many lessons learned from our nightmare haul out. Number 1: never let anybody
    hurry you especially if you have to pay them. Slow down. Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast. That comes from the US Special Forces. Lesson Number 2: regular rest prevents
    downward spirals. Rest regularly or you will exhaust yourself and when you’re
    exhausted you will make a series of poor decisions that will begin momentum in a
    downward spiral. First, you have to halt that downward momentum before you can
    turn it around and create upward momentum. To prevent a downward spiral
    from happening in the first place regularly rest.
    Working yourself to death is not helpful for anyone. And lesson Number 3: always
    expect things to be more difficult and to take more time than you anticipate. In
    the Tao Te Ching Lao Tzu wrote something like this in Chapter 63: the sage
    expects everything to be difficult and therefore never encounters difficulty. This concludes Season One of SV Arianrhod. Season One was 13 episodes and took about
    ten months to create. It produced around a thousand dollars in revenue and costed
    over 50,000 dollars to create and that’s without me on payroll. If you enjoy these videos and would like to see more and would like to
    enable us to create more share the series with your friends. The best way to
    support the channel to support FLORB to support SV Arianrhod and Alternative
    Living Spaces is to share these series with your friends. Get more people
    excited about sailing vessel Arianrhod and Alternative Living Spaces. If you
    enjoy the videos and you have the means support FLORB on Patreon. Even if you can
    support one dollar per episode all of it helps us be able to create
    more for you. Let’s Explore Life Together. And check out this crazy Floating Orb
    that we all live on and share and call home. Big Love. See you soon.

    What if a sailboat HITS A WHALE or a Whale Strikes a boat? (PC Sailing #53/ Tips from the Pros #3)
    Articles, Blog

    What if a sailboat HITS A WHALE or a Whale Strikes a boat? (PC Sailing #53/ Tips from the Pros #3)

    December 8, 2019

    hello I’m Patrick Childress this is
    third in the series tips from the pros and in just a minute we’ll get with Hank
    Schmitt from offshore passage opportunities and see how he dealt with
    his whale strike the whale strike that you saw at the beginning of this video
    happened to my wife Rebecca and I while we’re sailing on our sailboat Brickhouse
    off the coast of Madagascar fortunately it was a small whale and it was a
    glancing blow so I’m sure he went away and very well unharmed
    there have been sea survival stories though about whales sinking sailboats and
    two of those books happened in the Pacific west of Panama and those people
    had to take to the life raft and spent months drifting around on the ocean
    until they were rescued in one book definitely the whale was out to sink the
    boat the other situation it’s questionable so it’s rare it seems like
    but it does happen and whale strikes can be a problem the second time I’ve had a
    Whale strike was when I was delivering a swan 48 from Bermuda to Rhode Island and
    we were well out of the ocean deep water and into about 200 feet of water coming
    up on the banks off the coast of Rhode Island and that’s when on this pleasant
    day full main sail full jib were sailing along and all of a sudden the boat just
    sort of lurched forward as though the keel was digging into a mud Bank and we
    came to a stop sails were full you look over the side no water is moving past
    the boat that was the strangest thing and then all of a sudden the boat
    lurched again and the bow picked up and we started sailing and getting speed on
    one croute happened to be watching behind the boat and did see a whale come
    up and then disappear so these things do happen fortunately it isn’t always a
    catastrophe like that sea survival stories but it is something to be
    concerned about there is a possibility of maybe operating the stereo or running
    some kind of acoustics to let whales know that you’re coming you think that
    they have great senses but somehow sailboats do sneak up on them
    so let’s get with Hank and see how he dealt with his whale encounter hello I’m
    Hank Smith captain of the Swan 48 avocation we’re here in beautiful
    Huntington Long Island but six weeks ago coming back from Bermuda we were in
    between Bermuda closer to New Jersey and we actually had our first whale strike
    at night we knew it was a whale because when we did hit we did fall forward but
    it wasn’t like hitting a container or a log where you just stopped instantly and
    after we got up took a look at by the time we said what was that I just looked
    over my shoulder and there we saw the whale so of course whale strike first
    thing you want to do is check and make sure you’re not taking any water on
    checking keel vaults and through holes for your transducers so that’s something
    we’ll do in a few minutes another thing that you might want to do is also check
    underneath to see what the bottom looks like because as you’ll see we didn’t
    have any damage down below but you still want to go down below and check and see
    if there’s any damage to the keel or the forward part of the boat we were not
    worried we knew we weren’t sinking we also want to go in the water and take a
    look and while we’re doing that we’re also going to take a look at the bottom
    of the boat but first we’ll go below and take a look where the keel boats are and
    the transducers that you would want to take a look at first and we get on our
    trusty tool to get our access we want to check our keel pulse transducers to get
    anything out of the way on Salons we have the suction cup to open up the
    floorboards to our through bolts right here or bilge pump we would see any
    water that might be coming in from another compartment but as we can see of
    course it’s dry here so that’s very good keel is nice and secure so your bilge
    and your kill bolts right here you have access to the center of the boat your
    kill bolts of course is what you attach your keel to so if you did have any
    damage from hitting something you would see some cracking or some
    looseness hopefully not any water ingress but everything certainly super
    tight here no issues at all other places where you would look for ingress would
    be the transducers for both your depth sounder and your speedo because they
    protrude a little bit and certainly hitting a whale or any
    object could open up a place for water to come in and then after that it might
    be thruhulls that you check it well but the big thing is just to see if you
    have any water coming back from any part of the boat so then you can get an idea
    if water is coming in which direction after 250,000 miles we had our first
    whale strike eventually things catch up to you so it was very still so very cold
    up in New York so we waited till we returned to Bermuda to go ahead and
    check of course we were very wondering what things look like below so we’re
    gonna jump in the water and take a look and see see you at the bottom looks like Thank You Hank for all that great
    information the two books that I referred to at the beginning of this
    video are survive the savage sea which was published in 1973 about the
    Robertson family spending 38 days in a dinghy after their boat was sunk by a
    whale the other book is 117 days adrift about the ordeal of Maurice and Marilyn
    Bailey after their boat was sunk and that book was published in 1974 of
    course we have all seen whales that breach and accidentally come down on a
    sailboat but can that really be intentional but even a simple collision
    between a sailboat and a whale can certainly leave a boat very damaged
    especially if it knocks out the rudder it does seem though that there’s an
    increase of collisions between sailboats and whales and there’s two good possible
    reasons for this one is whale conservation and the increased numbers
    of whales but then too there is a big increase of cruising sailboats passing
    through whale territory so why don’t whales just get out of the way whether a
    ship or sailboat there is speculation that whales being the biggest thing in
    the ocean they grow up never having to change course for anything they just
    don’t know to move our collision with the young humpback whale at the
    beginning of this video is a very good example of that that whale could have
    easily avoided us but it chose not to that might have been a very good
    learning experience for that young whale that not all large rounded things in the
    ocean are as soft and friendly as mother that learning experience just might save
    its life one day one would think that a whale should hear the approach of a
    sailboat apparently it is a very noisy ocean down there and becoming more noisy
    with the increase of ships fishing boats and all sorts of surface craft but also
    military submarines maybe in some extremely noisy areas close to
    civilization the whale might not hear the vessel coming however it could be well
    worthwhile for a sail boat in whalel territory to create noise by playing the
    stereo which can be heard through the hull
    turn on the depth sounder especially one of the new Raymarine depth Sounders that
    uses a sweep of frequencies not just the standard 50 or 200 kilohertz or even
    turn on the engine a diesel engine is very noisy underwater when in whale
    territory it would be good to slow down in some whale feeding areas ships are
    restricted to a speed of no more than 10 knots many sail boats would be fortunate
    to go that fast but the slower the better to give whales and the sailboat
    more opportunity to avoid each other know before your sail if your boat will
    be in a whale traffic area subscribe to Whale alerts for your particular area
    unfortunately these are concentrated in the USA but ask Google for something like
    whale tracking in South Africa should give you some information to be aware of
    try to travel during the day so you can see whales on the surface better some
    whale species spend a lot of time at night resting on the surface finally as
    if that wasn’t bad enough in their migrations and search for food
    many whales spend much of their lives and precisely those waters that are the
    most dangerous for them often frequenting both commercial shipping
    lanes and recreational hotspots taking the same route that migrating cruisers
    follow so keep a good lookout make a lot of noise and try not to hit any whales
    if this video is worthwhile for you please give it a thumbs up and if you
    haven’t already click on the subscribe button that will be a big help and in
    the video description there is a link to the tip jar if you don’t mind helping
    out in that direction so thanks a lot for watching and we’ll see you soon you


    Get Engine Data from the Lowrance Elite Ti Graphs

    December 5, 2019

    So we have the engine data cable hooked up
    on our Yamaha engine on this boat. We’ve got that connected to our NMEA network and now what you can see is you can actually see on screen our engine
    data. You can see we have RPMs, our water pressure, our speed over ground, our
    voltage from our alternator. So all of this information comes right
    here on your dash. Over here on the side, we’ve got our dash gauge. You can see as I
    trim it up, it shows us where we’re at on trim. As I
    trim it down again it shows us where we’re at. Now we know where full trim.
    I’m going to step on the throttle here a little bit. You’ll see RPM speed up. You can see our speed go up also. We’ve got our
    water temp and our depth on screen also. So these are a lot of features that are
    really great. Using this feature you no longer have to
    have all of the gauges on your dash you can run these gauges right on your unit.

    Bulkhead Repair on a Sailboat- Using a Laminate Trimmer & Plastic -Patrick Childress Sailing #57
    Articles, Blog

    Bulkhead Repair on a Sailboat- Using a Laminate Trimmer & Plastic -Patrick Childress Sailing #57

    December 1, 2019

    this is part two of changing this to
    this and making sure that the upper shroud chain plate bulkhead will never
    deteriorate again hello we are Patrick that Rebecca
    Childress on the valiant forty brick house
    we are currently hauled out in Richards Bay South Africa going through the boat
    doing a lot of things making some modifications and getting this boat
    ready to Atlantica but first we have to finish up this project isolating this
    wood bulkhead from any possible leakage from the upper shroud chain plate and I
    made one template using two pieces of cardboard it’s a lot easier to do it
    that way and then tape them together then we’ll bring them downstairs lay it
    out on top of the FIR mica and then start the cutting process for me the easiest way to cut plastic
    laminate like Formica or wilsonart is another brand name is to use a laminate
    trimmer and that is a small router that spends a two-bladed cutter at very high
    rpms and in this case I’ve already marked out the template onto this big
    sheet of plastic laminate but it’s just too big to deal with I want to cut it
    down to a smaller size and make it more manageable so I’m setting up a straight
    edge hold in place with clamps and then I’ll run the base plate of the laminate
    trimmer along that straight edge and make that as my first cut to cut out the
    finished product on this job I’ll be using two different cutter bits these
    are both 90-degree bits as opposed to beveled bits beveled bits would
    generally be used on countertop edges so that you don’t have such a sharp edge to
    rub against the orange bit in the machine right now I would use as a
    plunge bit making plunge cuts in the center of large sheets of Formica to
    open up an area that would then be made larger later on in the work process to
    make a long straight cut using that orange bit the base plate of the machine
    would then write against a straight edge that would be clamped to the work the
    yellow bit has a ball bearing roller guide on it so that will follow any
    profile that is clamped below the work surface of the plastic laminate whether
    it’s straight or curved this is the same yellow roller bearing guide bit running
    against a straight edge cutting a piece of polycarbonate and it will be just as
    straight and smooth as the guide that the roller bearing is following these
    bits rotate in a clockwise direction looking down from above so it’s best to
    move the machine at a direction so it tends to throw the chips and bits away
    from the work rather than into it it seems nothing ever fits right on the
    first try so a little marking here and there and then a trip back down to the
    ground it was easier actually to put 150 grit paper in
    sandir in sand to the blue line rather than set up the laminate trimmer and try
    to trim it out that way I had a problem when I went to the
    hardware store to buy the glue that I needed to put the Formica on to the
    bulkhead I asked the clerk standing in the aisle for contact cement and no
    matter how I asked him he assured me the smallest amount that they had was a
    50-pound bag so I was standing in the paint section I knew it had to be close
    by and then I finally saw the cans on the shelf contact adhesive they call it
    in these other countries so we had a good laugh about that one
    but I finally did get what I needed so now we are ready to stick the first
    piece in place this smelly solvent based adhesive works far better than the
    useless water-based contact adhesive and generally it takes two coats on the
    Formica or on the plastic laminate and I’ll just put one coat up on the wall in
    this case I’m just putting some around the perimeter this is risky business
    once this stuff sticks together there’s no manoeuvring it around it has
    to be a perfect exact plop up against the wall and there’s just no room for
    error so I’m just going to put some around the edges here it doesn’t matter
    if it’s not adhered in the center there’s going to be a bracket to hold a
    shelf in the middle and some other things so it’s going to be well adhered
    but it’s most important right now is just to get it glued in around the edges
    without messing up the project now that little projection up at the top left of
    the sheet of plastic laminate that’s where the old chain plate hole used to
    be but that’s all been filled in with epoxy and fiberglass over on the outside
    it’s totally sealed because we’re going to be making a new hole on this side of
    the plastic laminate so I made another template to match the front of this
    cabinet took that down cut out the Formica plastic laminate and then I mark
    the inside edge of the door opening with a magic marker
    and I’ll take that back down cut that out again it just makes it a little
    easier for putting on the contact cement and doing the final cutting do the exact
    dimensions of the door frame work with two coats of contact adhesive on the
    backside the plastic laminate and it is all dry
    almost dry to the touch of a fingertip to the glue it’s ready to set this in
    place it’s a very delicate precise operation to make sure everything gets
    lined up exactly if I really made a terrible mistake there’s a chance of
    getting a hair dryer set on high or using a clothes iron or maybe even a
    paint stripping heat gun set on low to heat up the plastic laminate and
    especially the glue underneath to loosen it up to pull it apart and then give
    myself a second try today is a lucky day now to route out the inside edge of the
    door frame so I set up the yellow bit with the bearing guide set that just
    deep enough to right inside of the door frame in to cut the plastic laminate
    going around in a clockwise direction so it throws all the chips and bits away
    from the work I just slowly follow the inside of the doorframe until the base
    plate of the laminate trimmer this won’t go any more we get hung up on the far
    side on the far right side but that’s no problem we’ve got a solution coming up
    and it isn’t doing it by hand putting the trimmer bit in an electric
    drill allows one to get it into some very tight places but the electric drill
    runs at a much slower rpm so you have to work slow and carefully or risk chipping
    out the work this boat is 43 years old and there’s
    things that just fall off of it like these cleats that are supposed to be
    adhered to the fiberglass hull and they hold up the horizontal deck slats so we
    cleaned things up a bit of sanding mix up some thickened epoxy with Caviezel
    and butter it all up and squeeze them in and then find something to help hold
    them in place until the glue sets taking everything apart to do the rebuild on
    this project not everything especially the teak pieces come out intact so some
    of the trim has to be glued back together with epoxy oftentimes clamps
    won’t hold it but rubber bands do fine and the rubber
    bands they don’t really get epoxy done it doesn’t adhere to well through the
    rubber bands and they can easily be sanded off anyway and that is sips job
    the whole time I’m inside doing this work sip is outside sanding teak and
    doing all the varnish work all of these flats were originally
    installed at the valiant factor using common steel grads so over the decades
    those grads just turned into a rusty mess they barely held anything it was
    really the compression fit the good work of the carpenters who cut exactly right
    and is that compression fit that was holding most of these slats in place and
    then the big problem was getting those rusty nails out of the wood they would
    just fall apart so most of them I had to drill out and then use putty to putty up
    and smooth and over those holes for reinstallation of all of these slats I
    used stainless steel pan head screws and set up string lines to follow to try to
    get as straight of a line as possible and the time came before putting up the
    fiberglass ceiling panel to cut the new access hole for the chain plate but
    first I put up very thick duct tape to help protect the new Formica and then
    using a multi-tool did a vertical plunge cut right up through the very thick
    fiberglass decking and it would be easy enough to avoid that hole from outside
    of the boat the multi-tool is a great tool to have on a sail boat and it has a
    blade that oscillates side-to-side and obviously can get into some very tight
    places to make sure that there was no rotten balsa coring in this area we
    opened the area up and dug everything out and then built it up with layers and
    layers of 1708 which is biaxial cloth with a chopped strand mat backing is
    solid it took a bit of reaming with a drill bit to open up the chain played
    hole and then this whole area was painted the chain plate was installed
    and then sealed in place with butyl sealant butyl tape actually and the heat
    gun was used to help liquefy the butyl a little bit make it more pliable and then
    crammed down into the gaps on either side of the chain plate for many
    applications especially around chain plates I prefer butyl in a caulking gun
    tube it’s just more pliable it’s easier to pump into the voids but unfortunately
    this butyl tube is empty but I save it just to show everywhere
    trying to buy more of it it’s american-made butyl and that’s the only
    kind of butyl in a caulking gun tube that is worth using Chinese all the
    foreign made butyl is just a lot of junk and it just isn’t the same stuff after
    that the only thing left to do was to install the shelves which was easy
    enough and then figure out what to do to replace that ready old insulation that
    was on the inside of the hull up in the stereo cabinet so let’s go into the
    marine store and see what they might have for insulation to glue up along the
    hull so the option for insulation to glue up
    on the wall was this rubber mat or this rubber mat 12 millimeters thick which is
    a little bit less than 1/2 inch and it felt like a rubber exercise mat and it
    came in either black or like early american-made cars black there was no
    option here on what to use so unless you’re dealing with Space Shuttle winged
    tiles where you can put a blowtorch on one side and comfortably put your hand
    on the other a half inch of anything available at the Marine store isn’t
    going to give us much insulating value aerogel is another super insulator but
    aerogel and space shuttle wing tiles are bit pricey and certainly limited
    availability especially for gluing up on the inside
    wall of sailboats so if you know of anything that works especially well
    that’s affordable for cruisers for insulating the inside of their sailboat
    if you can leave that information down below in the comments section that would
    be a great help to a lot of people so this insulation is really there to help
    prevent condensation inside of the boat don’t click off just yet we have a video
    progress report on the outside work of this boat
    well the bottom is already for copper coat all the puttying and patching and
    painting on the outside has been done we’ve gotten a lot of work done on this
    boat over the last 7 months there’s still a few more things to do but I’ve
    got a lot of video to put together so we have a lot of DIY videos coming up so
    thanks a lot for watching I hope this was worthwhile for you and if it was
    please give it a thumbs up and also click on the subscribe button if you
    haven’t already thanks a lot and we’ll see you soon a sip
    hey there’s my friendship yeah yeah thanks do you got it all
    started SIPP went to work full-time for a contractor here so I’m happy to give
    them a start and now we’ve got a lifetime job forever and this is our new
    guy the little rainy day today so we’re just finishing up polishing up some
    propane tanks do a little sanding on them and primer good rainy day work

    12 Fishing Essentials for Every Angler | BoatUS
    Articles, Blog

    12 Fishing Essentials for Every Angler | BoatUS

    November 23, 2019

    Hey there, folks! Lenny Rudow here for BoatUS Magazine. You know. it doesn’t matter if you like to troll for walleye in Wisconsin or chum for stripers on the Chesapeake, no matter what kind of angler you are there’s some basic fishing gear that everybody needs. Well, let’s start with the basics first. Obviously every angler needs a rod and reel. But along with that, another very basic item is your 5 gallon bucket. You can use it for a seat. You can use it to hold you bait. Heck you can use it to hold all your other fishing gear, including a ruler. Got to have a ruler right? Otherwise, how do you know if your fish are big enough to keep? Another item every angler should have is sunscreen. Yes, people. You have got to protect against the sun in this day and age, especially if you’re going to be out all day fishing. Now, I really like to carry backup handhelds to my electronics. If you’re going to be out on a boat and fishing all day long, it’s really important to be able to tell where you are and call for help in case of emergency. What else we got in here? Let’s see. How about a pair of binoculars? These little guys will help me find fish when I see working birds in the distance. Heck, I can use them to spy on other anglers if I want to know if they’re catching anything. Very handy for a fisherman. Now, here’s one that’s a little specialized. These are split ring pliers. See that little knobby on the end? We need this so that we can change out the hooks on lures which are attached with split rings. Another little tool I have here is a multi-tool. Now this has all the different little doodads, screwdrivers, knives, all that stuff, and I like to always keep one of these around for reel repairs or gear repairs that I need to do on the spot. Here we have a pair of fish lip grippers. These come in really handy, especially when you’re fishing for a toothy fish. You can just insert the jaws of this into the jaws of the fish, clamp them down tight, and then you can hold on to that fish really easily. Now I consider these little snippers and absolute must and the reason is especially if you fish with braid It can be really tough to cut fishing line. Make sure you don’t fake it and try and bite through fishing line, because in the long run that will really hurt your teeth. And of course, you’ve got to have a pair of long nose pliers so you can pull the hooks out of the fish’s mouth. One final item on my boat It’s attached, but you might not have it, is a cooler. You’ve got to have a cooler to keep your catch, right? Of course if you want to get the fish from in the water to into your boat, you’ll also need a landing net. Hmmm. I don’t think that’s quite big enough for the fish I catch. Wait a minute, let me see what else I got in here. Ah! Now we’re talking. That’s what I call landing net people! And of course one final item you don’t want to forget is those sunglasses. You need them not only to protect your eyes but also because the sunglasses help cut the glare and actually let you see through the water a little bit better. Well, folks, I hope you found this video helpful. I hope you’ve enjoyed it, and don’t forget to click on the subscribe button below so you don’t miss any future BoatUS Magazine videos.

    The Mistral: Our OffShore Sailing Catastrophe with This Ancient Phenomenon
    Articles, Blog

    The Mistral: Our OffShore Sailing Catastrophe with This Ancient Phenomenon

    November 22, 2019

    What just happened? The plan. Sail from Cadaques, Spain to La
    Ciotat, France. A 128 nautical mile sail that is by nature, challenging. This area
    is known for a wind pattern referred to as the Mistral. High and low pressure
    cells converge and the wind that is generated is funneled south through the
    Pyrenees mountain range and the Alps. As the wind is cooled by the mountains it
    increases in density and begins to fall and build in momentum
    creating sustained periods of heavy wind, regularly around 40 knots and, in times,
    exceeding over 75 knots. The Mistral is a strong, cold, and gust ridden phenomenon that has been around since the beginning of time. It’s a type 5 PFD so once it’s
    underwater it’ll self inflate. If it doesn’t inflate whenever it’s underwater
    you pull this tab here. We got a d-ring you could use for a leash if you need to,
    otherwise it should fit nice and snug and comfortably and you should feel
    secure. Like a professional. *laughter* Sweet. This is a harness with a tether on it. You got where it comes together to make a T. That’s gonna go down on your back and
    then you got the shoulder straps like so. This strap here you can use to make a
    jack line. Already got one set up. What a jack line is is a jack line it’s just a
    secure line that runs the length of the boat so you can clip in your tether to and around the mast and you would obviously have on over
    this your PFD. As we were preparing to make way the forecast look to be sustained 25 to 35 knot wind right on the beam. So Jackson, you’ll head up into the wind. I’ll raise the main sail. Tara will ease the main sheet. And then, ugh, we’ve got two reefs in the main sail already. Jackson braved the helm for the first
    portion of the sail and we were moving well. Around 10 hours in we were visited. Our naivete led us to believe this was a
    ‘good omen’. The wind grew. What just happened? The brackets broke. No… The brackets broke? The brackets holding
    the davits on the transom both sheared. Davits were flexing heavily as it was
    only held on by a few bolts in the cockpit. Quickly I tried to devise a
    solution to relieve the pressure. The first thing I tried was to tie the
    davits to the backstay. Quickly realizing the
    futility of this idea I remembered that we used the main halyard to hoist the
    davits onto the boat. I would use the main halyard to support the davits. I tied a rolling hitch and began to
    tension the halyard. The stress was relieved, but there were
    many things that I was uncertain about. This is where, I believe, that I began to
    make a series of mistakes that turned this mishap into a catastrophe. I feared that the continued beating we were about to take from the remaining 60 miles would
    be too much for the already weakened davits. So I chose to lower the dinghy
    into the water and tow it behind thinking it would be safer afloat than
    swinging like a pendulum. In a hurry, we lowered the dinghy, failing to remove the
    redundancy line that secured the dinghy to the davits. Now with too much tension
    on them the only option was to cut the line. Many mistakes were made since Cadaques, but a clear rookie mistake was that I had elected to leave the outboard motor
    in the dinghy strapped to its sole. The dinghy was made fast to the port stern cleat and we resumed sailing on a port tack. Secured to the windward side of the
    boat, the towing line began agitating the broken davit leg against the hull. I gave the dinghy more slack in hopes that it would alleviate the pressure. As I did this the stern line that was used to
    lift the dinghy was made fast to the starboard stern cleat as a loose
    redundant line. This line then became taut and the dinghy was being dragged
    broadside behind us. Loosen the one on the starboard side. The starboard stern cleat. The starboard stern cleat? What about it? Loosen it! Just as I saw in my mind moments before it happened the starboard side of the dinghy dove and it filled with water and it violently
    capsized it. This is the only footage we have of that event. Loose the cleat!