Browsing Tag: boating

    Friendly fishing comp for kids (Eng Sub)
    Articles, Blog

    Friendly fishing comp for kids (Eng Sub)

    March 12, 2020

    This is the camera I will be on if I catch fish? I have 5 cameras Camera 1, 2, 3, 4, 5! Am I going to be on YouTube? If you catch a good fish If you don’t catch any…… I can’t do much So that’s the fish? They are the little ones Only then you can grab the fish Around this length Look here for a photo What happens when they get a bite? You will get taps, big ones will just take the line Small ones will tap and pull the line a little I will set the sounder to beep when there’s fish Something came up on the sounder We will take turns I will hook on to a fish and pass the rod to the kids Out there at the front? More fish showing up? Give it a few minutes and a lot of fish will show up Is there certain time when fish will come? Should see them coming in 30 min or so You see nothing but soon, it will go crazy We should have come later You have one hour right? Hour and a half More than enough Did you get a bite? Cant be! There are no fish What if I do catch one? See, nothing on the sounder If you catch when nothing showing up? You are the WINNER! I prefer to cruise around like that boat there rather than fishing Should we give up fishing and cruise around? Yeah! What happens when fish bites on the rod holder? You should see the rod tip bend You then get it out of the holder Strike and reel in slowly Thats the basic idea yeah? I just need to know the basics I will use this rod to hook onto a fish And pass it on for everyone to reel in Just need big fish Ones I hook on this side is yours and the other side is theirs I think he is on Who’s turn is it? Fish is on Reel it in Hold on tight Slowly Still on? Its not small Please help him Can you see the fish? Here, I will help you Bigger than I thought, I will reel it in Wow! We might win the comp! It’s bigger than I thought Yeah, Kingfish Thats great! Come on kingfish! This is brilliant! I am getting small bites Taking its time, must be big Coming up We are tabled so leave your reel alone Kingfish was swimming around everywhere Pretty big? Kingfish! Can you see it? Wow! Its big Really big! Quick, photo! We need photo as proof So big, fantastic! Over there! Come and celebrate together! Hold it and take photo Beauty! Its long So hold its tail like this Hold tight Never let go What did I say? Hold tight Even when it shakes, don’t let go You will be on YouTube! Bye! Don’t get caught again! That’s why people get hooked on fishing! What’s Kingfish in Korean? All the friends in Korea are so happy with your catch He is on again! Your turn now, come here Slowly and make sure the line is not slack Need to keep the line tight If the line is not tight, you lose the fish See… there you had slack line Let me show you Lift up Wind and gain line as you lower the rod tip Don’t lower the rod tip without winding Small Yellowtail A little pinky I want to hold it and take a photo You are doing good Pinky or a yellowtail Feels pretty light? Thats the way A pinky, slightly bigger than the last one So cute Not going to take photo? Don’t want to? It’s a pretty fish for a photo I will! Its same as your last one Just release? Lower the rod Another pinky Same as one we just caught Try holding the line Keep it steady Look here and smile You are almost a real fisherman! I will flex how I caught a King Should get the landing net ready? Yes please Have the landing net ready there Hold on, I will bring it’s head up Big fish Hope its bigger than the other team’s kingy What bait did you use? I used squid Hold it and take photo? Yeah, do that as if you caught it No… don’t want to Do you really think the little boy caught the last kingfish? Absolutely not…. I caught it! I will take a photo You just need to hold it still like this I will hold it in front of her, take one Hold it tight I will teach you how to hold and pose Hold it tight there Put your fingers here So your hand and fingers show up as little as possible Lift, yes like that Hold still like this If you pose like that Then check how the photo turns out Tail end further back and head forward Wow! It looks so bigger!!! See how the photo comes out? Let me take another photo Like this? Looks so much bigger This is biggest fraud! OK, release!

    EP60 – Overnight Camping and Fishing | Occ. Mindoro
    Articles, Blog

    EP60 – Overnight Camping and Fishing | Occ. Mindoro

    March 9, 2020

    guys we just arrived in our target island again we will do overnight camping and fishing we have brought some barbecue just in case we didn’t catch anything we need to be ready we also brought tents because lately the rain fell we thought maybe it will rain again tonight so we brought tents Naldo and Mr. Bags are here with us and guys, someone is here today Dala Man in the house he is with us today his wound is already healed and now, Naldo and Albert will look for baits me and Dala Man is in charge in barbecue so we can have our dinner

    Understand Boat Insurance – Runabouts & Fishing Boats | Club Marine
    Articles, Blog

    Understand Boat Insurance – Runabouts & Fishing Boats | Club Marine

    March 7, 2020

    Presenter: Hayley Wilson
    Hi – I’m Hayley Wilson. I’ve been around boats my entire life and
    I know Club Marine has a reputation for being transparent and fair. Knowing what you can and can’t claim is
    really important, so to help explain the most important aspects of your cover, join me and
    some other boating lovers and we’ll show you how to get the most out of your watercraft
    and your insurance. Welcome to Club Marine! Presenter: Al McGlashan
    G’Day I’m Al McGlashan. Welcome to Sydney Harbour – one of the best
    and busiest fishing spots in Australia! I love my little runabout and knowing it’s
    protected with Club Marine means I can enjoy my fishing even more. As a runabout owner, it’s important you
    understand your policy, so let’s start with what you ARE covered for… If you’re mad keen on fishing like me, you
    should know that your policy does cover your rods & reels , but tackle, lures and braids
    aren’t covered. If diving is your thing then diving equipment
    is covered too. In either case, be aware of the standard policy
    limits, and ask to increase them if you need to. Remember some types of equipment are only
    covered when stored in a lockable part of your boat or trailer or while in use on the
    boat. If they’re stolen and there’s no sign
    of physical break-in you may not be covered. See boating’s just better with Club Marine. Presenter: Tony Longhurst
    Hi, I’m Tony Longerhurst. I spent the first half of my life racing V8
    Supercars and I’m now the CEO of The Boat Works at Coomera. Pleasure craft insurance is a bit like car
    insurance – if you have an accident, or someone steals it, then you’re covered. There are three main parts to your Club Marine
    Pleasure Craft Insurance: Firstly, you’re covered for accidental loss
    or damage to your craft including theft and malicious damage. And remember, you can only claim for theft
    if you have taken reasonable measures to prevent it, for example locking away equipment and
    securing trailercraft when unattended. Cover includes your motor, hull, trailer and
    gear like electronics, navigation and guidance systems, equipment and accessories. Limitations do apply to some types of items
    like personal effects, sporting equipment and tools. You’re covered on the water, during repair,
    and in storage. And if your boat can be trailered, you’re
    covered when your boat is going to and from the water. Oh and don’t forget your policy has an excess,
    and there are different levels and options available, so make sure you pick the best
    option for you. The second part covers your legal liability
    for damage you might do to someone else’s boat, injury you might do to someone else
    and specified other liabilities arising out of the use of the boat. Remember, unlike cars, with boats there is
    no compulsory 3rd party cover. That means; no insurance equals no cover,
    at all. There are options from $1 million to $20 million. The third element of Club Marine’s cover
    is different from car insurance. Club Marine’s boat insurance also covers
    certain types of serious personal injury to an insured person themselves, up to specified
    limits. However, this is not a substitute for income
    protection insurance and is only to cover emergency medical treatment from a professional. Presenter: Hayley Wilson
    One of the most frustrating parts about insurance is when you have a claim denied, and Club
    Marine understands that. There are some common scenarios you simply
    can’t claim for. General wear and tear isn’t covered. Things like bursting of your trailer tyres,
    marine growth on the hull, delamination, electrolysis and corrosion. Engine seizure or overheating is also not
    covered. If you have an accident, it’s probably covered. If your engine blows up because of age or
    lack of maintenance, it probably isn’t. So keep up your surveys and maintenance. Club Marine will ask for an out of water survey
    or condition report on vessels when they reach a certain age. You will be given 12 months’ notice before
    one is required and they are valid for 5 years. You’re not covered when you aren’t taking
    reasonable precautions to prevent loss or damage to your boat. Also not covered are personal effects not
    being stored or used on the boat and certain types of personal effects like cameras, mobile
    phones, provisions and fuel. You won’t be able to claim for improvements
    or alterations to your boat during a claim – that’s something you will need to pay
    for. Nor will the policy cover the costs of correcting
    any faults or errors in design and construction. You may need to claim these against the manufacturer
    or distributor. And legal liability cover won’t provide
    cover for professional builders, repairers, skippers, marina operators and so on – they
    should have their own liability insurance and when your boat is in their control they
    are responsible. The policy also won’t cover amounts which
    should be claims against any statutory or compulsory insurance, scheme or fund. There are also some General Exclusions that
    apply to your policy. These are very important because you won’t
    have any cover at all if one of these apply. However, when you think about them, I think
    you’ll find them pretty reasonable. They fall into a few broad categories: The first category is instances where the
    law has been broken, fraud has been committed, or actions taken are unreasonable. The second category we’ve already mentioned
    – general wear and tear, lack of maintenance and gradual deterioration of your boat over
    time. The third category is exclusions for usage
    or activities not allowed for in standard rating and which Club Marine may need additional
    information, premium or a higher excess. The final category is for losses which Club
    Marine are not permitted to insure either legally or because of internal business restrictions. Here you’ll find exclusions like terrorism,
    war, deliberate pollution and any liability arising from asbestos. You can find full details of all these General
    Exclusions in your policy wording. Presenter: Tony Longhurst
    When it comes to how much you want to insure your boat for, Club Marine offer Agreed Value
    or Market Value, and that decides the way in which your claim is managed and the amount
    that is paid out in the event of a total loss. Remember with Market Value, the amount paid
    out may be less than what is shown on the schedule, because it represents a maximum
    payout, and what you will get depends on the actual value of the boat at the time of the
    loss. You can find out more about the difference
    between Agreed and Market Value in the Frequently Asked Questions on Club Marine’s website. It’s your responsibility to ensure that
    the value shown in your policy schedule represents the boat’s current value. You should review and change this amount each
    year if you feel it is too high or too low. You should include the value of equipment,
    accessories and personal effects in the value you provide Club Marine for cover of these
    items. In the event of a claim, Club Marine will
    pay the reasonable cost of replacing the item to the same condition as it was in before
    the loss. So if you have a 10 year old motor, your claim
    will cover the cost to replace it. If it is replaced with a brand new motor you
    may be asked to pay the difference – this is known as a contribution. Presenter: Hayley Wilson
    At the end of the day we’re all out here to have fun. We know you know boats, but hopefully now
    you know about your insurance too! For all the details, read the full Club Marine
    policy wording which is on their website. And If you have any questions, give Club Marine
    a call. So from all of us, and Club Marine, Happy

    Is Fixing up an old sailboat w/ 500 ROTTEN BLISTERS even worth it ??  -Patrick Childress Sailing #60
    Articles, Blog

    Is Fixing up an old sailboat w/ 500 ROTTEN BLISTERS even worth it ?? -Patrick Childress Sailing #60

    March 6, 2020

    We need to get this old blister covered sailboat to looking like this
    and this is how we did it part two of major hull blister repairs hello I’m Patrick and I’m Rebecca on the
    sailboat Brick House a Valiant 40. We have had
    some comments people asking why don’t we just go out and buy a new sailboat
    instead of fixing up this old 44 year old sailboat. Buy a new sail boat?? i would
    rather have 500 blisters then spend 500 grand! yeah a new Swan 48 would be okay
    but the reality is a 44 year old sailboat suits our economy just fine and
    especially a valiant 40 I don’t know if any other design especially with the
    interior layout that I like as well as the Valiant 40 so these old sailboats if
    you buy them at the right price if they’ve been somewhat maintained there’s
    a lot of hidden value there. we used to flip houses that is we would
    buy old houses that needed work fix them up and sell them oftentimes within a
    month and make a comfortable profit that is what helped to get Rebecca and I out
    retired and sailing at a fairly young age! We see sailboats in the same way. Our
    Valiant 40 had a lot of tremendous value locked in it and we just had to
    bring it out. I’m gonna put my sunglasses on too because it’s very bright out here that’s why I don’t put sunglasses on my
    head most of the time I always lose them but yeah these sailboats like with
    the Valiant 40 has a lot of potential. If you just can sail away on it enjoy
    crossing oceans and in these foreign countries where it’s very reasonable, do
    the boat work to fix them up which is what we have been doing. I have been waiting
    for about five years to get to a place like South Africa to do all of the
    blister repairs. We knew it would be extensive, it would take a long time and
    a lot of work but everything that you saw in the first video and you’ll see in
    this video all the blister repairs and all the painting cost us about $4,000 USD
    for materials and labor. That isn’t counting my own time in labor and it
    does not count the Coppercoat that’s on the body but we feel as though just like
    flipping a house we have increased the value tremendously. We may not sell the
    boat for profit in the end but we’ve had a very cheap place to live, we’ve had a
    lot of great adventures and we’ll certainly get a lot more for it than
    when we first started out. Anything you want to say? No. You have to say something! You say
    yeah anybody has a Swan 48 you want to give us… OK if anyone wants to give us a Swan 48 we’re all ears – go for it! yeah but the reality is a new sailboat just is such a
    fast depreciating asset you know just like a car as soon as you drive it off
    the lot it’s you’ll never get what you paid for it again and that’s why we feel
    these old boats have a lot more value than any new boat ever can have. any sail boat
    even a new one is a maintenance treadmill. If you don’t want to do boat work,
    don’t buy a boat. And that’s part of it too. You have to be willing to get your
    hands dirty and work right alongside the helpers. you just can’t be throwing money
    at contractors who oftentimes just screw things up. Get in, do the work
    yourself, get the proper tools, and learn how to do it and you can have a very
    nice asset. So let’s get into finishing up these blister repairs… into the final
    faring and sanding. so let’s get to work! It was a lot of work to open up all of
    these resin blisters and prepare the blisters for the laminating of new
    fiberglass with epoxy resin to get everything ready the process the epoxy
    resin used is Gurit SP 106 with slow hardener and the fiberglass cloth is
    1708 we got all of those materials from AMT Composites in Durban South Africa oh
    I forgot to mention in the last video and I’ll do it real quick here with
    these thin rollers when they get used they get really plugged up with fiberglass resin
    and they become useless. but they can clean up very quick and easily by using
    a paint stripping heat gun just melt that stuff out of there give it a good
    brushing with a wire brush and couple of minutes it will look like new.
    The two-part epoxy faring compound we used is Seafare 600 which we also
    bought through AMT Composites but as you can see just using some putty knives or
    some sheetrock compound knives they just weren’t large enough to do an adequate
    job we had to find a better system a better application tool to help speed up
    the process and do a better job so we started experimenting with some leftover
    fiberglass panels and also some plexiglass panels and each had its own
    thickness and ability to fold perfectly into these outside curves and the inside
    curves and the plexiglass panel is a little thicker so it could be held very
    straight for very straight work like the keel to Hull joint curve the only thing
    is there to be absolutely no defects on that application edge of these new
    screeds but that was no problem we just got out the router picked up a piece of
    aluminum which was actually an old curtain track and used that as a
    straight edge for the router to follow to make a perfectly straight edge on
    both of these new screeds you can actually see how wide that piece of
    plastic is so I actually cut it in half lengthwise and made two screeds out of
    it but you can see here look at that router
    guide that bearing was just about ready to fall off I got lucky on that one good
    lesson to always check the set screw on the very bottom of that collar and make
    sure it’s good and tight depending on which way the wind blew we generally set
    up our old mainsail as a dust containment cloth
    although the contractor is working on the surrounding boats weren’t quite so
    concerned where their dust blew but what really helped out to contain our dust
    and make our cleanup much easier during the smoothing process of all that
    faring compound was to use a little cheapy vacuum cleaner that hooked up to
    the dust collection system of the random orbit sander and it didn’t use
    traditional bags for filtering they used water which was a very great collection
    system saved us a lot of work a lot of cleanup during this whole process hey that’s just amazing look this is the all over in the air on
    the ground on our work I mean the solid mud is about half of my finger deep
    incredible so after all that sanding we had to make sure that we got all the
    dust off of the surface in preparation for the next step in the process we
    found that washing with a scrub brush on the end of long handle with a lot of
    fresh water was not adequate when the surfaces dry if you wipe your hand over
    there would always be a layer of residual dust that did not come up so we
    found that wrapping a terry cloth towel around that scrub brush and then washing
    the boat maybe with a little dishwashing detergent in the water as well that
    eliminated all the residual dust that we were absolutely sure to make sure that
    all of that dishwashing detergent was well washed away from the surface of the
    boat using the water hose we washed at night because by morning the ground and
    everything else would be dry however during the day if we had to wash the
    boat we would use three buckets of water because we could not afford to use the
    hose and be slopping around in a mud pit one bucket with clean water would first
    be used to wipe down the boat we’d go over that with the next clean bucket of
    water and then follow that with a third clean bucket of water and it was one
    person’s job then to continually be emptying out those water buckets and
    refilling them with more clean water and this worked out really well occasionally
    we would go over the surface with a heat gun just mildly to make sure that
    everything was very dry but otherwise it did come out extremely clean with that
    three rag three rinse process one day we ran out of the two-part epoxy ready-mix
    faring compound so we had to mix up our own using the epoxy resin after stirring
    the hardener and the resin for a full two minutes then we mixed in a spoonful
    of Cabosill and then started mixing in the microballoons of course there’s
    other fillers of that would be very sandable but they weren’t available to
    us had to use the microballoons and we had
    marked in the tin can with a magic marker the level of which to fill the
    can so we’d have just the right amount of microballoons in the mix so we could
    duplicate this mix time and time again very quickly with no guesswork but
    the big problem was this stuff sags no matter how much of any of the fillers we
    put in there and the Cabosil it still ran it still sagged it was not easy to
    spread and get a nice even finish it meant a lot of work with these long
    boards in all the sanding that we had to do the only way you can get a good
    finish on these boats without a lot of waviness
    is with longboards and a lot of arm muscle flexion there’s no easy way I
    searched and I searched and I could only find one extremely expensive longboard
    that had a power cord attached to it and that’s made in Europe and we just
    couldn’t get that here 58% import duties plus shipping and everything else it’s
    just cheaper to hire a lot of people with strong arms so I made the longboards out of some scrap fibreglass panel that we had laying around and they
    were just wide enough so where they would fit side-by-side on a long roll of
    sandpaper holes were drilled in the fiberglass board the head where the
    screw if the flat head screw would fit was countersunk the little wood handle
    was glued and screwed to the board and we would be all set some of these boards
    had two handles some of the board’s had four handles it was nice to have their
    variety and then a rubber piece of rubber that I found laying around the
    yard was contact cemented sometimes they call it contact adhesive to the bottom
    of the longboard and that would give a nice backing for the sandpaper
    conforming to some of these tight radiuses on the hull one long piece of
    sandpaper did not work out as it would buckle in the middle
    it was far better than so we found to cut two or three pieces which is best to
    run the length of a longboard spray on adhesive just did not work well it
    wasn’t strong enough to attach a sandpaper to the longboard so then we
    always used the contact cement out of the can. I checked with every contractor in the
    boatyard, and they all said there is no easy way out of all of this hand longboard
    sanding and puttying and faring and sanding and puttying and faring and
    sanding, day after day, to get it right. some people familiar with this type of
    work would call our longboards short boards because often times on much larger
    projects very high-end projects boards that are 15 feet long would be used that
    is four and a half meters and take four and sometimes five people to operate but
    this is not a marina Queen it’s not a race boat what we’re doing here turns
    out to be very acceptable and the nice even finish throughout and very adequate
    for a hard used ocean crossing sail boat there are different techniques for
    finding the low spots or the high spots in the faring process but generally we
    could see them or feel them easily with our hand but we added black white or
    blue pigment to the faring compound and that helped greatly to show where we
    were and where we needed to go with the fairing but anytime we did find a lower
    the high spots that needed attention we would generally circle them with a
    different colored magic marker one day like red and maybe a green one on
    another day to help avoid any confusion and the day finally came to where we
    could mark the waterline we raised it up yet another inch and that would be a
    total of three inches from the original waterline as this boat came from the
    factory and before we ever got started on this project we put pieces of blue
    tape along either the cap rail or the rub rail and then measured down from
    there to the existing waterline to preserve those measurements and try to
    get them back at the end of this project so all of those measurements then were
    measured straight down from their individual station and marked with a
    magic marker on the hull of the boat and then we took a fishing line and strung
    it up and taped it to each one of those measurement points
    then it took a lot of eyeballing and moving that fishing line up and down
    just a hair and more tape to hold it in new places to get that curve that
    existed before we got started on this project once that was accomplished then
    we took new tape and followed the fishing line just to the top side of it
    where then the fishing line can be pulled away and we had whatever water
    line that was left this was not a perfect system but we did the best we
    could with it if you know of a better way of getting back that water line then
    please leave the information in the comments down below and everybody I’m
    sure will benefit from it all the faring and sanding was done now we were
    finally in the homestretch we use all epoxy resin and all epoxy
    fairing compounds on this blister repair project so osmosis – the intrusion of water into
    the hull, just would not be a problem. However I still wanted to give
    four coats of epoxy resin – as a barrier coat – below the waterline so that we would have a nice
    hard evenly consistent skin in preparation for the Coppercoat
    antifouling that we would be putting on and just to make me feel better about
    the project following standard epoxy mixing instructions we mixed our slow
    hardener with the resin at least two minutes before applying it to the hull
    rolling it on and then smoothing it out with a roller that we had cut in half
    and we applied it wet on wet that is one layer that we
    applied once it just set up and it was still a little tacky to the touch we
    went on and applied the next coat and this gave excellent adhesion to each
    successive coat four coats of two-part primer around and
    around until we just ran out of primer to use this was some South African made
    stuff that was recommended by one of the contractors in the boatyard so it wasn’t the
    name brand that the most international people would recognize and of course
    everywhere in the world there has got to be a bug that just feels like they’ve
    got to jump into wet paint all the surfaces were sanded with 320 grit paper
    with a random orbit sander before priming and I would have put a lot of
    money on saying that everything was perfect there were absolutely no
    blemishes and how long how much money I would have lost on that bet it’s amazing
    what primer will show up in the way the tiniest little defects so we use this
    stuff called spot putty it looks like tar but it dries extremely
    fast and hard and it was just the perfect party one part putty
    for filling up all these tiniest little dings or scratches or defects and then
    those would get sanded with 320 grit paper and and then they were ready for
    painting we wouldn’t prime over these pretty rough-looking isn’t it but that
    just as smooth as anybody could do with this stuff so it did take a little bit
    of extra sandy we went through three of these cheapy
    little vacuum cleaners that uses water for collection rather than a dust bag
    the bearings inside just kept burning out but it wasn’t just those a little
    black patch spots that we used the spot putty on the entire hull where it was
    primed you got sanded again with a six-inch random orbit sander with 320
    grit paper but we also used the little palm sander with the same grit paper in
    some of the areas that were a bit more curved and more difficult to get to with
    the big 6-inch random orbit sander. Sipho was on the spray gun with three of us doing
    everything that needed to be done to make it possible for him to just keep on
    spraying around and around the boat we moved a scaffolding his hoses and one
    man was dedicated to mixing up the two-part paint and again that was just
    generic paint made locally that was suggested by one of the local
    contractors. That is our old mainsail covering up the catamaran in front of us
    they just had their boat painted and then we don’t need any oopss with their
    paint job. Sipho certainly had the hardest job he couldn’t stand around and take a
    little break every now and then… always moving, and always spraying, and he worked around and around, and that was good enough. After 4 coats we were done what a
    nice feeling I mean I’m the boss I’m paying the bills I don’t want a marina
    queen but these guys said no way we’re not done and I lost that argument I
    didn’t have the heart to tell them that this is a long range hard core hard used
    cruising sailboat I don’t need an absolutely perfect job
    but they would not relent there were just the tiniest little defects the
    tiniest little pinholes primer and paint does not cover defects it only
    accentuates them and I did not have the heart though to tell them good enough
    was good enough in this case so they went at it and sanded down the white again, filling
    up all the tiniest little defects you could imagine and took special viewing
    from one angle or another to see them and then started wet sanding and also some
    dry sanding all with the 320 and actually 400 grit paper all to get this
    surface ready for another four coats of white paint the green and white color
    combination is the age-old Valiant 40 color scheme and this time we got away
    with four coats of green and you didn’t have to put on anything so now all that
    was left to do is put on the newly chromed trim on the hawspipe
    give it a good application of Coppercoat which is video number 57 and then
    apply prop speed to the propeller and apply Propspeed on the shaft and prop. Propspeed is a silicone finish
    that has worked out very well for us in the past and we’ll do a video on the
    Propspeed application one of these days. And after eight months of boat work,
    this old boat is finished and ready to go back in the water. We fully believe
    that it’s stronger and better now than when it rolled out of the factory in
    1976 44 years ago and just like the houses that we used to fix up and sell
    for profit in Rhode Island we fully believe that this boat is now worth far
    more than when we started out 12 years ago. We have all the receipts for the
    materials and all the time cards for the labor but it would take hours and hours
    to figure it all out to get an exact amount of cost, so Rebecca and I will
    both guesstimate that the materials and labor to do all the blister repairs. and
    this is not counting the cost of the Coppercoat bottom paint, but it costs us about
    four thousand US dollars to do this blister repair and the paint job but the
    boat work isn’t done. Rebecca wants to put on lithium batteries, and also a hybrid hot
    water heating system. SO now we sail away from Richards Bay and move on down to Cape Town where we
    will take care of those boat projects, but it’s been a fun great stop in Richard Bay…
    we went to the game parks and met a lot of great people but like with every
    cruiser there comes that date that you just have to leave…and sail away!

    Infinity Woven Vinyl Flooring | Ship Shape TV at ICAST 2017
    Articles, Blog

    Infinity Woven Vinyl Flooring | Ship Shape TV at ICAST 2017

    March 1, 2020

    It’s time… to fire this thing up!Hit it! I gotta tell ya, I am like a kid in a candy
    store at this trade show. It’s called ICAST and if you’re into fishing,
    man, this place, you you’d lose your mind in this place. And good deal, you made it. Hi, I’m John Greviskis, and I want to introduce
    you to our first guest today, this is Warren McCrickard, and Warren is with a company called
    Infinity Luxury Vinyl and right back behind us, guys, this is the Taco Marine Project
    Boat its that 1989 Pursuit 2650. The whole marine industry has been coming
    together and transforming it into a 2018 model boat to auction it off to charity for the
    I’m Logan It Foundation and they are really benefitting juvenile diabetes. I was telling Warren, and Infinity, about
    the charity and our needs for some type of flooring and the cabin sole inside the boat,
    and man did this company step up to the plate. And Warren I was telling you that the interior
    color scheme of the boat is gray, and I know that you have a lot of different collections. How many collections do you have? We have about 25 collections, over 200 SKUs
    and thats anything from teak looks to bamboos to seagrasses, weaves, all of the popular
    type of collections. Okay well based on gray, that’s our color
    theme inside the boat, you sent me two different collections. I did. Which are right here. These two rows are the first collection we
    are going to be looking at and what is it called? so this is Better Than Teak II, this is our
    second generation teak product, its teak and holly, its got a little bit more texture and
    a little bit wider line. What is the material actually made from? How is this better than carpet? It’s much better than carpet, it is a woven
    vinyl. It has a PVC sheath and that is what gives
    you the anti-microbial, the stain and soil resistance makes it incredibly low maintenance. No mold or mildew, no stitch or smell. You’re not gonna get tracks? Like wear patterns? No tracks, no discoloration. It’s not gonna hold sand? No sand and again, it is very easy to clean. Fantastic! Okay so it comes in teak and holly, it comes
    in weave, bamboo, grasses, what’s this collection over here? So this collection is called Teak Supreme
    II, what we did with our Better Than Teak, we also split it out into beige and gray kinda
    wider families, so Teak Supreme II is gray and Teak Supreme I, which isn’t shown, is
    our beige. Now what I was hoping, Warren, is in the same
    space. Yes? Would it be possible to show them one look
    with Infinity Luxury Woven Vinyl and then maybe another look? To where they can kinda, I’m trying to give
    people ideas here. Absolutely, so what we wanted to do for ICAST,
    because it is such an exciting event, is that we wanted to bring you one thats teak, which
    is a very popular style, and a new style which is our Boucle. Boucle has a twisted yarn, and it is incredibly
    luxurious. We only want the best of the best in this
    boat that’s gonna help this special charity. This is the best of the best. This is 100% Made in America, so this is a
    product made here, it is for boaters and it is something that we wanted to put together
    to make life easier and to let you stay out on the water a lot longer. I know a lot of people right now probably
    have a notepad and a pencil and might wanna look at the 25 different collections. Yes. Real quick, give them the website. It’s infinity I-N-FIN-ITY LWV as in the luxury
    woven vinyl, dot com. Okay guys, we are going to install this today
    on the program, we are going to learn a lot about Infinity and luxury vinyl. Now it’s time for us to install our Infinity
    Luxury Woven Vinyl. And who we have on the program now is a professional,
    certified installer from Infinity, this is Kyle Eazsol and Kyle is with a local dealership
    here in Orlando, FL called Sonny’s Marine and I know that you have one of your installers
    with us, Cody. Yes. Cody? Cody, if you could say hello to everybody. I sent Mike, as well as Hayden, to the boat
    in order to remove the flooring we just put in temporarily to get it ready for some of
    the boat shows and I also had them sand the glue. A lot of people are going to be switching
    over from carpet, to this Infinity, and you know carpet is held in a lot of times with
    glue. Yes. Do you need to sand that glue? Yes, absolutely. The carpet, there’s two ways carpet is typically
    installed, it is either stretched and stapled or, which more commonly, it is glued down. For the stretched and stapled, you’re gonna
    want to make sure you pull all the old rusty staples out so that they don’t puncture the
    Infinity vinyl once you do install it. And if it is a sandable surface, take your
    sander, and make sure to remove all of the glue residue from the previous application. Okay, you also, if you’re pretty good at this,
    you can do a template yourself. Yes. Alright and thats just laying out maybe some
    canvassed plastic material and with a Sharpie, marking this is kinda where I want my new
    flooring to go into place. We sent those templates to Warren at Infinity
    and at their shop, they have this CNC machines that can actually cut out the templates for
    you so that it’s perfectly cut. Mhm, saves a lot of time. And then they can send it right to the customer. So now, if you’re not great at patterning,
    not a canvas guy, if you’re not somebody that does this everyday, you might want to hire
    a professional. Yes. And that’s what you guys are. That’s what we are here for. And there are different ways to put it in
    you can snap it in, you can lay it in, or you can glue it in, we want a permanent installation,
    we want to glue this in. Mhm. Let’s talk about the glue that Cody is going
    to be using. Okay. What is the glue here? SO the product we have here is AAT- 390 vinyl
    glue and it’s recommended for vinyl applications such as Infinity vinyl and you’re gonna want
    to take just a little bit of it on your trowel here, it’s a notch trowel. And how high do we want those notches? I know they have different options. Uh, right about 3/16ths, you could go a little
    bit more. You don’t wanna do too much glue though, so
    make sure that when you’re done installing it, or installing the glue, that you scrape
    the excess glue off and remove it. That way you don’t have bubbles. Okay, do we need the glue to set before we
    lay in the Infinity? Yes, you wanna give it about 10-15 minutes
    to set, and then when you go to set the vinyl, make sure, like I said, that there’s not too
    many bubbles or not too much glue. Is there a technique for putting the material
    on? I mean do we drop it into the glue or what? The best way to start is to have it rolled,
    the Infinity vinyl that is, rolled up, and then start at the top end of where you’re
    gonna be working and then unroll it onto the glue. Okay what is this tool right here? What we do with this tool is after we have
    gotten it set and in the place on top of the glue, there are gonna be bubbles, there’s
    never gonna be a point where there’s no bubbles. So using this, you’re gonna start at the top
    end, where you first unrolled it and you’re gonna work it in a north to south motion until
    all the bubbles have been removed. This is what is called a J Roller, guys. And it is very, very effective. Now do we want to have any wait time before
    tracking and we can start going onto the new flooring. Yeah you’re gonna want to give it at least
    24 hours, I know it’s exciting when you get the new vinyl in there, you wanna step on
    it and stand on it, but that can actually displace some of the glue and it will not
    give you an even finish. Okay, so let it cure 24 hours. Well guys, here’s where we started today,
    with the floor inside the Taco Marine Project Boat here at the ICAST trade show and I wanted
    people to kinda get an idea of some of the material in the same space. This, Warren, is the teak and holly in that
    gray family. Yes. Um, if you want teak and holly lines in the
    boat, I think it looks great. Fantastic. We only put it in temporarily, we actually
    glued in the Boucle, and the finish on it has something a little more unique in that
    Boucle, what do you call that? Yeah it’s got a kind of twisted yarn in there
    which actually adds a lot of luxury and gives it a nice, refined style. Okay, this material is fantastic for inside
    the boat, maybe it’s a pontoon boat, and you can snap it in, you can glue it in on the
    interior and I know we did this with Barry Berhaugh’s boat and he has the CV and we put
    it in. And we need to thank everybody at Infinity. Yep, thanks so much. Let’s give everybody at home real quick though the link
    to you guys because you have 25 different collections. I think, especially ladies, this is
    gonna blow you away, if you want to beautify your boat, you’re gonna want to take a look
    at this stuff. Go to slash Ship Shape TV,
    we also need to thank our professional installers from Sonny’s Marine, here in Orlando. And please go visit those guys, they are such
    a great family dealership and if you’re looking into an awesome, they have the G3’s
    go check those out and that was Cody. We’ve had a lot of people from the marine
    industry helping us out. Our last guest expert is this gentleman right
    here this is Sammy Kusner, this is John Kusner’s son. Sammy, you know, we try to throw the show
    out kinda the same way every week on the program and I was hoping you could kinda take the lead on this
    and tell everybody at home what they need to do. Everybody at home, keep your boat Ship
    Shape and Fish Taco! Fish Taco, guys! We will see you real soon! Good job, man!

    How To Tie A Palomar Knot (Connect Fishing Lures, Hooks & Swivels to Braid) | BoatUS
    Articles, Blog

    How To Tie A Palomar Knot (Connect Fishing Lures, Hooks & Swivels to Braid) | BoatUS

    March 1, 2020

    Hey there, folks! Lenny Rudow here for BoatUS Magazine. You know, recently I was looking through our knot tying playlist on our YouTube channel. You may have checked it out– If not, be sure to subscribe below and then you won’t miss any future videos. But in any case, one thing that I noticed was we were missing the Palomar knot. Now, this is a really important knot for you fishermen, especially if you like to use braid fishing line, because that braid line is slippery. You can’t just tie it onto a swivel or the eye of a lure or any other solid object. You’ve got to use a Palomar knot to make it happen. So let’s take a look at how you do just that. Now, let’s say that this ring right here is the eye of the lure or a swivel. The first thing I want to do is take my line and double it up. Then I’ll push the end through the eye and simply tie an overhand knot. This is a really easy one to figure out, folks, because then all you do is take your lure or ring and pass the loop you made over it, pull it tight, and boom! You’ve got your Palomar. Let’s take a look up close. I put my doubled line through the eye, tie an overhand knot, and then take my swivel, lure, whatever it is, and pass the loop over top of it. Pull it through, pull down tight. One more time: loop goes through the eye, tie an overhand knot, pass the item through the loop and pull her down tight. This knot does leave a long tag end so the very last thing you want to do is get your snippers, snip that off, and you are ready to fish. Well, folks, I hope you’ve enjoyed this video. Don’t forget to leave your comments below, and I hope the Palomar helps you catch more fish!

    How To Install A 3 Bow Bimini Top – Cooltech
    Articles, Blog

    How To Install A 3 Bow Bimini Top – Cooltech

    February 28, 2020

    Eevelle designs and manufacturers
    high-quality performance products for those who love the outdoor the Summerset Cooltech series bimini top featuring Aqualone Edge Cooltech fabric is the
    best choice for outstanding performance and durability
    the Summerset Cooltech series Bimini table comes as a complete kit including
    canvas frame and mounting hardware remove the canvas from the bag and lay
    out the pieces on a clean dry surface lay out the crossbars and slide
    crossbars down the Bimini sleeves insert the ends of the crossbars into the side
    of the frame and lock into place measure to compare the mounting points on your
    boat width of frame attach the mounting swivel to the end of the frame clean and
    mask off the area where you’ll be working position the frame in the
    mounting area open frame and confirm the position and coverage are correct mark
    the mounting points of the swivels drill pilot holes for the screws countersink
    the holes to prevent the fiberglass from splintering apply silicon to the holes
    to ensure a watertight fit repeat the drilling process to mount the
    eye strap loops secure the loop end of the web strap to Bimini frame and attach
    the strap to the eye strap loop using the clip on strap repeat for all straps
    adjust the straps and tighten canvas release front straps to close the top
    and collapse the Bimini rearward fold canvas towards frame then secure in
    storage boot the summerset cool tech series bimini top are designed to
    satisfy the most discriminating customers with marine grey fabric heavy
    duty frames and stainless steel mounting hardware
    this kit is manufactured with the highest quality materials for superior
    durability Eevelle quality and performance by design

    500 ROTTEN, FESTERING Blisters!!  – Blister Repairs on a Fiberglass Sailboat! (Patrick Childress 59)
    Articles, Blog

    500 ROTTEN, FESTERING Blisters!! – Blister Repairs on a Fiberglass Sailboat! (Patrick Childress 59)

    February 23, 2020

    We need to get all of these opened up resin blisters from looking like this to Looking like this and this is how we did it Hello, we are Patrick and Rebecca Childress and our six-month-old South African deckhand coati on our Valiant 40 Brick House And we are hauled out in Richards Bay South Africa In 1976 When this boat was built the price of oil in the u.s Just about tripled and along with that all oil related products like fiberglass Resin, and the Builder of this boat decided to change resin suppliers and go to a cheaper resin No one could have foreseen the consequences over the years and decades the uncured resin in the lay-up has been trying to get out of that layup and Causing blisters on its way out. So these are uncured resin blisters It has nothing to do with osmotic blisters, which is water trying to get into the laminate and then causing blisters So I’ve seen these blisters develop and get bigger and more numerous over the past twelve years of crossing oceans on this boat So right here in Richards Bay after sailing three-quarters of the way around the world I’ve decided to dig in take care of these blisters make sure that there’s no structural issues and Fix these up just as best as I could So we can carry on and cross more oceans and have no more problems and hopefully any future owner of this boat Twenty years from now if there’s problems they’ll be just minimal. So we’ll see what happens in twenty years I hope I’m around to see it but this is what we did to dig in and Fix our resin blisters for right now Digging into these resin blisters below the waterline where there’s a lot of soft antifouling paint just wasn’t working out So well, we opened them up a bit, but there had to be a better way of Digging out the fiberglass that was delaminated from the hull and that’s where we found It was better to first drill holes into these blisters and if there is moisture Which often time there was to let it squirt out Although it might look clear here. Certainly. The liquid was more of a dark. Tobacco. Looking color Eventually, we got all the bottom paint off which was the whole video in itself and that took weeks to do But that also made it easier to find the less obvious Blisters like this one that has a little bit of a ring around the perimeter So this is where our nice flat random orbit sander just went over the top and outlined this ring Alright, it’s time to dig in and take care of this blister. We found a much better faster way to open up these blisters so that we didn’t have to spend a lot of time and send a lot of dust into the air with the dis sanding we Use two different sized hole saws and of course, we first got rid of the pilot bit got that out of the way we don’t need to be drilling holes right up through this hull of the boat to the inside and Made a pilot guide out of the thick piece of plywood that held the hole saws in place well, we were able to at least get them started then once the hole is started big if you get rid of the guide and Go ahead and drill the rest of the way through the delaminating fiberglass Certainly made a lot faster and easier than just a lot of this So what starts out as a shallow blister can wander off it in any direction and then become a deep pit going through many layers of fiberglass Those vertical parallel stripes are where this boat was peeled below the waterline only in 2001 and treated for blisters at that time It is quite obvious that just surface peeling to a particular depth is not the best way to go because these blisters originate at all different depths within the laminate layout It was become frustrating just when I thought we had all the blisters opened up I would find another one but my eye was getting a little better at finding these things and Especially in the late daylight the side lighting would show up blisters that just weren’t obvious during the midday light So this one it’s a small one I probably should have seen it before because of that circular Identification so we dig in and open that one up – these are the dish that we were using on the 7-inch porter-cable dis sander 36 grit and 24 grit Occasionally, we would drill into a small blister and it would turn out to be fairly solid So for that small hole we would use this angle grinder with a metal Grinding disc on it to kind of feather out that hole but it left such a ragged finish We would have to go back with the larger this sander and help flatten it out of it Here is an example of a blister that has been ground out fairly symmetrically around however There’s still a bit of a bubble area here. So this grinding is going to have to come back much further out To where it’s well adhered in the layers We want to grind open all those layers of fiberglass the existing layers of fiberglass So that when we lay up the new layers of fiberglass, there will be very good adhesion to what is already there So here’s a spot that was ground out to take care of a blister and After a month of drying we have one little spot here that’s starting to bleed through So I’ll get in here today with a grinder and grind this out We’ll see how far back that little wet spot goes but I would predict something about that size So we’re getting down to these fine little areas And hopefully closing in on a date to start putting everything back together again At the end of nearly every day I get out the water hose and wash down all these open blisters And it’s pretty well known that this process is washing then we’ll help draw out More of any liquid that might still be hiding in the laminate I think if you do some research on moisture meters, you’ll find that they aren’t terribly reliable They give a lot of false indications but what I needed it for on this project was to give an initial reading and Then see if that reading changes over the following months Which fortunately it did in in our favor after five months of drying the numbers were very much in our favor I’m 69 years old. We’ve waited long enough time is ticking. It’s time to put this boat back together and move on The best information I have on this is up to 10 percent Moisture is acceptable for rebuilding but if you have better information, then please share it in the comments So others who are watching this video can benefit from your knowledge Environmental concerns and many of these foreign boatyards is it not the concern that it would be in? America New Zealand, Australia or many other countries But we would still set up our old mainsail drop cloth as a containment cloth Not only for our dust but to keep our neighbors dust off of our boat, especially when they were sandy steel We had to get a system going for patching up all of these irregular shaped blisters so first they were numbered and then we got out a sheet of plastic a Manual held it up while Elvis traced out the outline of each numbered blister Then that piece of plastic was cut out along the magic marker line and used as a pattern to cut out the fiber glass repair cloth Concentric Li smaller pieces of cloth were used then to help fill a depression It was the judgment call of whoever’s working on that particular void that Particular patch on how many layers of cloth to cut to help fill that depression This cloth is called biaxial because of its particular weave as opposed to this more traditional type of cloth Sometimes called boat weave on the backside of this is Chopped strand mat this chopped strand mat is actually sewn when with threads onto the biaxial together This is often times called combi Co MBI? but it’s also known as 1708 because the biaxial cloth weighs 17 ounces per square yard and the chopped strand mat weighs 8 ounces per square yard good strong combination we will use this for all of our Repairs all the blister repairs all the laminating and the build up and we’ll generally put the chopped strand mat side Down onto the repair first and build up from there Now the chopped strand mat has a nice way of folding into a lot of the defects and depressions of our repair work On the final layer will put peel ply peel ply as a floss It’s a polyester cloth very finely woven, but you just put it on as though it’s another layer of fiberglass cloth and but you don’t Wet out around the edges You don’t want to glue the edges down, but when everything is all set up you peel this off against it’ll leave a texture Equal to the weave of the cloth So it has tooth for the next layer of cloth to bed to and adhere to and along with using the peel ply Any Amin blush, which is a chemical reaction in epoxy resins comes off in the peel ply so there’s no more washing or any other prep work that’s needed on our laminate on our lay up after the peel ply comes off actually a mean blush is a reaction between the epoxy hardener and the Surrounding humidity in the atmosphere Some hardness like what’s used in two-part epoxy putty don’t create amine blush So we have all of our stacks of pre-cut glass all lined up ready to go now All we need is some fiberglass resin and this is epoxy gur at 106. Resin using slow hardener It’s a 1 to 5 mix this is very similar to is West system 105 and these pumps are very easy to use for these small mixes and Talento is our mixer man. It was so easy just to SATA lente. I need 5 and he’d give us 5 pumps or we need 6 or we need 7 and He would just mix up what we need. And this was his full-time job all day long Cilenti is wearing a double respirator Only because I was working on a separate project myself and I had him mixing up thickened epoxy with Cabo Sill Cabo still is a very flaky powder. You do not want to breathe If we needed a big batch of resin Then we would use a small kitchen scale to weigh it out all of us an annual worked well together The Emmanuel was the more experienced apply man, and Elvis supplied him with everything that he needed next It doesn’t matter who you are in South Africa even adult boat owners go around this repair yard barefoot tough African feet they have CIPO has been working in this boat yard for at least 15 years He knows everything about everything and I’ve learned a lot from them he’s starting out filling up these small depressions with smaller pieces of Fiberglass cloth and then working into larger diameters sections to eventually fill up the whole depression And certainly rolling out any air bubbles that might be entrapped in the laminate Years ago Emmanuel started out here as a security guard now. He just like CIPA is one of the best fiberglass men and all-around boat repair guys and available in the morning talento gets to pull all the other peel ply off of our previous day’s patching and That’ll give us an idea of when we have to lay in more fiberglass cloth Do some sanding or what if we just get to start cutting and fairing everything Celente started out in this boat yard working on the catamaran that was hauled out in front of it Polishes that catamaran was used in our how to clean the bottom of the video tips from the pros I saw how hard he went every day non-stop So I had a ragam and he’s caught on very quickly on how to mix resin same isn’t doesn’t Apply resin and looser layup so he’s becoming a very good fiberglass man himself Along with all the other things that about you parry arguments to have done Sotell NT is an independent contractor Now that we don’t need him anymore He stays very busy because he’s very desired by all the other private boat owners who were hauled out and need some excellent work done Using the peel ply helped tremendously to smoothen the surface unfilled laminate But we still had to go back with the 7-inch this sander and also the six-inch random orbit sander to help smooth things even more To repair anything for cutting and patching and that’s where a lot of previous work to begin This boat needed Massive amounts of cutting and fairing from the gunnel all the way down to the bottom of the keel and it would be very impractical to try to mix up two-part epoxy resin and mixing the Proper fillers and everything else and then get it out of the bucket before it’s set up and onto the boat and ferret out So we chose to use a two-part Ready Mix fairing compound s fare 600 which we got from AMT composites out of Durban and we would have them send it up on a little truck And whenever we needed more it’s good stuff Everything on this whole project is only epoxy We never used any polyester or vinyl ester resins for anything, but the S fare, you just mix it up One-to-one by volume Or if it’s by weight, it’s 100 to 64. And the first number is always the Resin, so that would be 100 parts and the 64 would be the hardener quantity It’s very easy to mix this stuff by an eye you make two nice globs of equal size and shape and then mix it all together thoroughly and Then you’re ready to go. But still the working time is very short You do have to move fast and this is probably about as much as what we could mix up at one time And get it on the boat before Having it start to set up and become useless to us spreading the putty thin and white on the mixing board like this Decreases the amount of heat build-up so it increases the amount of working time before it starts to set up before applying any compound to the boat we first washed everything thoroughly to get the sanding dust off using a lot of fresh water and A terry cloth towel to wipe everything down as though we’re washing a car a scrub brush Just does not work always leaves sanding dust and other contaminants behind we need a very clean surface for all of this to adhere to Properly but after washing and everything’s drying then we went back and wiped everything down with acetone and very clean paper towels or very clean rags that we had laundered trials are a putty knives like this or Sheetrock compound knives like this one We’re adequate for some of these smaller areas in flatter areas, but once we got into much larger compound curves or large great areas We tried to find something that would work much better and that would conform to the compound shapes so we finally figured that out and we made our own tools get into that in the next video in this series part 2 And we also show you how we made long boards for sanding all of this stuff down and getting in Even finish it was a lot of work