Browsing Tag: DIY


    How to Clean the Bottom of a Sailboat Underwater! (Tips from the Pros #4 /Patrick Childress #54)

    December 9, 2019

    your boat doesn’t have to come out of
    the water looking like this on sailboat ‘Brick House’ we’ll show you how we clean
    our bottom and then we’ll go to Hank Schmitt from Offshore Passage Opportunities to give his tips from the pros number four how to keep your bottom
    clean. Hello I’m Patrick Childress in over twelve years of living on our
    sailboat Brick house Rebecca and I have never found a bottom paint that does
    what it’s supposed to do what the advertising says that it will do
    we’ve always ended up having to scrub the bottom much sooner than ever expected so we
    normally use a hookah and up here we’ll put a link to video number 12 which
    shows how we use the hookah for scrubbing the bottom especially after
    we’ve been sitting for several months in one harbor and the marine growth really
    does accumulate and at the end of this video will show you some underwater
    scenes from that video but Hank Schmitt from offshore passage opportunities has
    a very good system for using a scuba tank which you don’t have to strap to
    your back and be so encumbered under the water so he’s going to show us how to
    start with scrubbing the waterline and then go deeper using the scuba tank and
    not wear it into the water okay so we’re getting set up to go ahead and clean the
    bottom of the boat I’ve been cleaning bottoms for about the last 25 or 30 years
    and at first we’d set up like most divers with a BC jacket and and
    regulator and all the weight belts and everything but I found it was much
    easier just to have a tank and a long 25-30 foot hose which I’ll set up right
    here in the middle of the boat and if you have a dinghy you could also put it
    in your dinghy but this keeps you from having to get a BC jacket and the weight
    belt when it’s time to clean your bottom and you’ll see how we can actually clean
    most of the bottom and we’ll demonstrate that in a little bit just by
    having the tank set up in the middle of the boat. we open it up so it’s
    ready for us we all the way open and back a little bit and I’ll just leave it
    right here in the middle I’ll go ahead and get set up to enter the water and as
    you’ll see I can clean most of the boat without having to use the tank and I
    just have that ready for me when I need it so I’ll go in the water and it’s all
    set to go when I need that for cleaning the prop for the bottom of the keel
    maybe the bottom of the rudder we’re gonna go ahead and get in the water now
    and we’ll show you how you can clean your boat pretty much about as big as
    forty forty five feet without using a tank if you didn’t have a tank if you
    weren’t certified but of course having a tank makes it certainly easier for
    cleaning off your prop or the bottom of your keel but really to clean the bottom of your boat
    the water isn’t that cold you don’t need a wetsuit or anything you just need a
    few things so we’re gonna go in with our swim fins
    a scraper of course for getting any barnacles or anything if you have
    barnacles on the bottom of your boat or anything then you really should you just
    be hauling the boat out and painting it a diver is not to keep from having to
    paint your boat once a year or once every two years for scrubbies they’re
    actually three different grades of scrubby’s one is like a sponge almost
    and that’s when you’re racing or you keep it clean a lot then the red want a
    little bit more abrasive and then you might be familiar with the black ones
    which are really for cleaning your barbeque grill and if you have to use a
    black one again I would usually just tell the owner of the boat save the
    money that I would charge you for diving and putting it towards a short haul so
    you shouldn’t have to be taking barnacles off the bottom of your boat if
    you have barnacles on the bottom you vote you need to paint but I know our
    bottom is not that bad so I’ll be able to use the lightest grade scrubby you
    can you don’t want to use anything more abrasive because then you’re taking the
    bottom paint off and again bottom paint as you know is very expensive 250 to 400
    dollars a gallon so the idea isn’t to put it on and then scrape it all off so
    again you want to use the the lightest scrub you can also very important are
    the suction cups because again imagine you’re in the water and as you’re
    cleaning the boat you’re pushing yourself away so they sell these at your
    marine supply stores also any glazier windows they also have suction cups for
    moving big pieces of glass so you want suction cups I put a line on there so I
    don’t lose that and then I’ll just have the scrubby on the other side I do use
    gloves again for barnacles you don’t want to scrape your hands if it’s really
    cold water you’d want to use a wetsuit but it’s not too cold today so just swim
    fins again if you want you can use booties my booties are more worn out
    than my gloves so I don’t use booties anymore and up here where the water’s
    dirtier I do like to put on a hoodie as well with a mask just any any mask I
    don’t use the snorkel at all because again I’m gonna be holding my breath
    cleaning the bottom of the boat and coming back up and you’ll see that
    demonstration in a little bit so again you don’t need a lot of a lot of tooling
    a minute ago you saw we set up our tank so we don’t have to worry about a BC a
    buoyancy control jacket or a weight belt even you’ll have enough with the suction
    cups to be able to take care of that so you’ll eliminate a lot of gear a lot of
    maintenance without the BC jacket so just a tank, a tank and long hose in the middle of
    the boat or you keep it your dinghy in the middle of the boat and I’ll just
    need that really for cleaning anything off the prop or the bottom of the keel
    so with that we’ll get suited up and see you in the water
    okay so I’m all suited up with my stickems – my suction cups…and hopefully I’ll get
    away with just my sponge type and I leave my other scrubby and my my putty
    knife near me so I could reach it when I’m in the water so just go in make sure
    you hold your mask okay we are in the water I generally
    like to start at the bow you see just okay so you could see the contrast where
    it was already cleaned and where it’s not and basically it’s my suction cups
    in one hand and I’m right-handed so I have this scrubby in the other and I’m
    just doing wipe wipe I hold my breath as I go down get to the middle of the
    bottom of the boat then work my way up the other side and I just continue that
    and that way I can do probably 90% of the boat without the having to use the
    tank or the regulator so it saves you from using a lot of air so when I was
    commercial diving I could do eight or ten bottoms with one tank so I wouldn’t have
    to make as many runs to do it and again if you’re out cruising around you don’t
    have to go and get your bottle filled as often. They do sell smaller pony bottles
    which you could probably do the whole boat bottom with just a small five or
    ten-minute pony bottle because again you only need it for your keel and for
    your your running gear your prop and your shaft if you have any barnacles
    there so it’s really just hold my breath wipe wipe….. and i come up again…work on down, more wipe wipe I don’t even have to hold my breath on
    the top. And I head back down. And i just keep going, all the way around. Probably once every 2 month if you’re not racing if you are racing then you
    might want to do it before each race. Very simple.
    okay so I’ve cleaned 80% – 90% of the bottom I have my regulator set up
    25-foot hose connected to the tank on deck. It could be on your Dinghy I just pull the
    hose down now because I’m ready to clean the bottom of the keel then I’ll get the
    putty knife and I’ll go ahead and clean the the strut, the prop, and the
    shaft and then we’re all done so I only need this for the last part of the last
    part of the cleaning the bottom. Thank You Hank I hope this video was
    worthwhile for you if it was please give it a thumbs up and also click on the
    subscribe button if you haven’t already also there is a link to the tip jar in
    the video description if you don’t mind helping out in that
    direction now here’s some of those scenes from when we were anchored for
    three months in Sri Lanka (cleaning the hull, cleaning the chain, cleaning the prop on the bottom of our sailboat Brick House) Propspeed from Oceanmax worked great for 2 years, so it made cleaning our bottom a lot easier than before. After 2 years, we are applying it again (hauled out now for Coppercoat, Propspeed and more)

    Whirlpool Dishwasher Repair – How to Replace the Tine Clip (Whirlpool # WPW10077844)
    Articles, Blog

    Whirlpool Dishwasher Repair – How to Replace the Tine Clip (Whirlpool # WPW10077844)

    December 8, 2019

    Hi, it’s Steve. Today we’d like to show you how to change
    the top rack retainer clip on your dishwasher. It’s a really easy repair, let me show you
    how we do it. To do this repair, we simply open up the dishwasher,
    extend that upper rack. Now if you’re replacing a broken clip, you
    will need to remove the old one. If you’re just adding a new one to it, pick
    the vertical tine that you’re going to install it on. Slide the gap in that clip over that tine. Clip the upper snap into place, then seat
    it on that horizontal tine at the bottom and snap it down into position. Your repair is complete.

    Top Builder: Toy Boat | Design Squad
    Articles, Blog

    Top Builder: Toy Boat | Design Squad

    December 3, 2019

    ♪ ♪ Toy boat.
    Toy boat. Toy “boyt.” Toy boy… toy… Ah! Have you ever tried saying
    “toy boat” fast? I’m Deysi from
    Design Squad Global. Check out this toy boat kids in Johannesburg,
    South Africa, made. These kid engineers
    built their toy boat out of a plastic bottle, wires,
    a motor, and a battery. Their project inspired us
    to challenge you to make your own toy boat
    out of recycled materials. So the first thing you need to
    do is find material to recycle. Other people see garbage,
    I see building materials! You should choose building
    materials based on whether they are waterproof
    and whether they are buoyant. That’s how well they float. You don’t want your boats
    to sink. You can use plastic,
    coated cardboard, foil, clay, wood, Styrofoam. There are lots of choices! Now, you’ll want to avoid
    using materials like this kind of cardboard. See how it absorbs water? It’s already getting soggy. So definitely don’t use
    this kind. But if you use
    coated cardboard… See how the water beads up
    on the cardboard? The plastic makes it
    water resistant, and it’s not getting soggy
    at all. The kids in South Africa
    used a water bottle– that’s a good choice. It’s definitely waterproof. Water bottles are waterproof. (laughs) Nice and dry on the inside,
    but soaked on the outside. This bottle is filled with air,
    which is not dense, which makes it buoyant
    so it floats. Density is a measurement
    that helps us know if something floats. It measures how much stuff
    is in a given space. See this mini bottle
    and this lump of clay? They’re about the same size, and they take the same amount
    of space. But the clay has much more
    stuff inside of it. It’s full of clay! The mini bottle
    is also full of stuff, but instead of clay,
    it’s full of air. Clay is heavier than air. So clay is more dense
    than the mini bottle. Clay is also more dense
    than the water, so… it sinks! See, one floats, and one sinks. This is why you should avoid
    using super-dense materials when you’re designing
    and building your boat. Bottles are also great
    for helping with stability. You can add plastic bottles
    as outriggers. An outrigger is a structure
    that’s attached to the side of a boat
    to keep it from turning over. See how the kids in Johannesburg
    used outriggers to keep their boat upright? Design and build your own boat
    out of recycled materials. Be creative! We want your boats
    to be different. See how much weight
    they can hold. Maybe you can make them
    self-propelled like the kids in Johannesburg. We want to see
    what you come up with. Tell us about your boat ideas
    and designs on the Design Squad Global

    How to Sew a Beach Bag
    Articles, Blog

    How to Sew a Beach Bag

    December 3, 2019

    It’s easy to take your summer necessities
    to the beach in this cute beach bag. Using cotton canvas makes it durable and fun fabric
    makes it fashionable. Let’s go ahead and get started. You’ll need 1 yard of 58” width cotton canvas, all-purpose thread, four1” curtain
    grommets, and 2 1/2 yards of 3/8” inch width cotton rope For tools, you’ll need your sewing machine,
    sewing gauge, scissors, straight pins, iron, and fabric marker.
    From your fabric, cut two rectangles that are 23 ½” inches by 25” inches. If you’re using directional
    fabric like me, the 25” inch side should be going vertically on the fabric design.
    If you want to add a pocket, cut another rectangle from your fabric or in a contrasting fabric.
    It can really be any size, but I’ll cut mine 9” inches by 6” inches.
    On the sides and bottom of the pocket, fold ½” inch to the wrong side. Pin and press with
    your iron. Fold the top of the pocket ½” inch, then another
    ½” inch and press. Stitch along the folded edge at the top of
    the pocket at your sewing machine, using a regular straight stitch.
    Take your pocket, place it in the center of one of your rectangles. I’m placing it about
    12” inches up from the bottom and then centered from the sides Pin and stitch the pocket sides and bottom
    along the edge. At the bottom corners of each rectangle, measure
    4 and 3/4” inch up and 4 and 3/4” inch inward. Mark your lines with your fabric marker. Cut on this line, creating a squared notch
    at the bottom of each rectangle. Place the front and back of the bag, right
    sides together. Pin the sides from the top of the bag to the top of the squared notch. Also, pin the bottom of the rectangles together,
    from squared notch to squared notch. Stitch these three sides at a ½” inch seam allowance
    and then press your seams open. Pull each squared notch apart, bringing the
    seams together, giving you an angled edge. Pin this edge and then sew a quarter inch
    seam allowance. At the top of the bag, you’ll want to hem
    it to create a finished look. Fold the top edge three inches, to the wrong side. Pin
    and press. Next, fold the bottom raw edge under a quarter
    inch. Pin and press this. Stitch along the folded edge to finish the
    hem. Mark the center of the bag on the front and
    back at the top. From the center, measure five and five eighths inch on each side and mark
    it. The mark should also be one inch from the top of the bag.
    Use the curtain grommet template to make a circle around your mark. This should be included
    in your grommet package. Carefully, cut out the circle.
    Place the grommet without the prongs on the inside of the bag, placing it in the hole.
    Take the other side of the grommet, with the prongs, line it up with the other ring. Press
    them together to snap them in place. Lastly, cut your rope in half for two equal
    lengths. Thread it through one grommet, from the outside of the bag to the inside. Tie a double overhand knot in the rope once
    it’s through the grommet, by creating a loop and then bringing the end of the rope
    through the loop twice and pull to tighten. Repeat with the other end of the rope for
    the grommet that’s on the same side of the bag. Then make another handle with the remaining
    rope on the opposite side of the bag. And here we have the finished beach bag. This
    is a quick project that won’t take up too much of your summer vacation so you can do
    a little sewing and then spend the rest of your time, relaxing on a beach. We hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Please
    subscribe to get notified of our weekly releases. Also, check out to
    view our complete library with well over 350 sewing tutorials. If you would like to directly
    support us, you can check out our patreon campaign and earn some exclusive perks. Thanks
    for watching!

    Crazy Inventions & Amazing Machines That are at Another Level
    Articles, Blog

    Crazy Inventions & Amazing Machines That are at Another Level

    December 2, 2019

    welcome to TTI welcome to a whole new
    world of science fun and machines hover glide the hover glide backpack helps
    prevent spinal injuries resulting from improperly used backpacks did you know
    that using heavy backpacks improperly could lead to both muscular and spinal
    injuries scientists have speculated that this is due to the inconvenience
    swinging movements most improperly fastened backpacks make as we walk in
    order to combat this there have been efforts to deploy straps and extra belts
    to help reduce swinging but these added paraphernalia showed no significant
    positive effects the hover glide backpack attempts to
    compensate for these movements using a special spring suspension between the
    backpack and straps made in the form of frame with guides which help dampen the
    vibrations resulting from walking the hover glide has been demonstrated to
    help reduce the load on the spine by about 80% which drastically reduces the
    risk of injury and possible disability ninebot go kart the ninebot go-kart is
    the exciting results of a collaboration between Shia me and ninebot this
    innovative racing cart makes use of a hoverboard as a rear axle which provides
    the power for motion and can be connected to the ninebot mini and
    ninebot pro gyro scooter it comes with three speeds designed for entry-level
    racers enthusiasts and experts with speeds of five 11 and 15 miles per hour
    and a reverse gear which functions at 3 km/h the reverse gear is typically
    activated by pressing the activator twice
    although riders may also use the manual brake there are some restrictions as to
    who can make use of the ninebot go-kart however as use is limited to people
    under 220 pounds and users between 51 and 75 inches in height mentis XE 1 the Mantis XE 1 is an
    exciting new vehicle which combines the best features of an electric bicycle and
    a boat it is a relatively new invention and at the moment it is only available
    for personal use we anticipate a lot of demand for this device as well as a lot
    of potential uses in other more competitive areas the Mantis works using a couple of
    hydrofoils which help to give it its aerial capabilities as well as with the
    use of an electric motor with a propeller which grants at a speed of up
    to 21 km/h on water this specially designed vehicle functions in total
    silence and can be directly written from the shore to the road as well completely
    disassembled when not in use in order to conserve space as a matter of fact the
    only downside to the Mantis that we’ve spotted is that it requires about three
    hours of charging for a ride of about 60 minutes not a craft the Nauta craft claims the
    sea as its territory this Australian made sea craft is ideal for people who
    suffer from seasickness but once you enjoy the sea in all its glory it makes
    use of special hydraulic suspension which serves as a shock absorber and
    reduce the impact of the waves against the lower part of the vessel and
    consequently leads to a smoother ride and this smooth sailing persists even at
    high speeds and the notic wraps coordinated turning function allows the
    boat to lean into a turn without loss of speed the suspension equipment of the
    NADA craft can cost between 120 to 150 thousand dollars pontoon boat the
    pontoon boat combines style and elegance with its bold design it is operated by
    two motors and has a total of two pontoons and has a steel base
    complemented by aluminum sides covered with shiny varnish to further compliment
    its retro look it also comes with ice headlights and versatile side lights it
    was designed for six passengers and is equipped with super comfortable seats it
    also comes with a multimedia and entertainment center a roomy
    refrigerator a sink for washing hands and fruit a wine holder a retractable
    bar for guests and an ultra-modern torpedo control with 10 functions for
    the captain the pontoon boat is powered by 150 horsepower giving it enough
    strength to fly across the waves Kangoo jumping shoes the Kangoo jumping
    shoes were designed by Canadian orthopedic surgeon Gregory elect Minh
    for the purpose of restoring function to patients who had undergone surgery on me
    joints lower legs and back it works through the use of a unique spring that
    increases calorie consumption by about 30 percent and protects the back end
    joints while doing so it has also been demonstrated to help improve and correct
    posture with the use of its semicircular sole which prevents the body from taking
    the wrong position this improvement in posture then leads to a positive change
    in calorie expenditure as well as general body function call Marty 10,000 FSC the coal Marty
    10,000 Road loader was designed with the idea of a super mobile crawler excavator
    the design bore fruit as the call Marty 10,000 FSC Road loader which can move on
    a caterpillar track by Ram it has adjustable railway wheels on its
    front and back that can be raised and dropped in order to move on and off the
    ramps the caterpillar wheelbase can spread out to the required distance and
    an adjustable center of gravity gives the tractor the ability to carry a
    significant amount of weight it moves at a maximum speed of 24 miles per hour and
    it can go anywhere where there are tracks or a trench Haven shield or barricade the Haven
    shield or barricade grants you protection when you need it the most we
    all know that it has been increasingly difficult to guarantee safety even in
    the most urban areas with stories of deadly home invasions and shootings
    ruling the airwaves The Haven Shield can be applied to practically any door
    granting it an added layer of protection to guarantee your safety the makers of
    the Haven shield guarantee that it has been designed to provide the best
    possible protection against thieves with a speedy door leading company and an
    easy to activate system once you’ve activated the safe lock mechanism for
    extremely strong patches are deployed along with a metal plate which
    essentially bars all entry into the room this barricaded door was then subjected
    to stress tests standing up to about 98 hits in five minutes even though it gets
    significantly damaged by heavy attacks the Haven shield still maintained its
    structural integrity and prevents it all entry there you have it folks a list of the
    eight most amazing machines and inventions from all over the world which
    of these machines and inventions did you think were the most insane tell us in
    the comments below don’t forget to subscribe and click on the Bell
    notification icon to ensure you don’t miss any upcoming videos see you next

    Bulkhead Repair on a Sailboat- Using a Laminate Trimmer & Plastic -Patrick Childress Sailing #57
    Articles, Blog

    Bulkhead Repair on a Sailboat- Using a Laminate Trimmer & Plastic -Patrick Childress Sailing #57

    December 1, 2019

    this is part two of changing this to
    this and making sure that the upper shroud chain plate bulkhead will never
    deteriorate again hello we are Patrick that Rebecca
    Childress on the valiant forty brick house
    we are currently hauled out in Richards Bay South Africa going through the boat
    doing a lot of things making some modifications and getting this boat
    ready to Atlantica but first we have to finish up this project isolating this
    wood bulkhead from any possible leakage from the upper shroud chain plate and I
    made one template using two pieces of cardboard it’s a lot easier to do it
    that way and then tape them together then we’ll bring them downstairs lay it
    out on top of the FIR mica and then start the cutting process for me the easiest way to cut plastic
    laminate like Formica or wilsonart is another brand name is to use a laminate
    trimmer and that is a small router that spends a two-bladed cutter at very high
    rpms and in this case I’ve already marked out the template onto this big
    sheet of plastic laminate but it’s just too big to deal with I want to cut it
    down to a smaller size and make it more manageable so I’m setting up a straight
    edge hold in place with clamps and then I’ll run the base plate of the laminate
    trimmer along that straight edge and make that as my first cut to cut out the
    finished product on this job I’ll be using two different cutter bits these
    are both 90-degree bits as opposed to beveled bits beveled bits would
    generally be used on countertop edges so that you don’t have such a sharp edge to
    rub against the orange bit in the machine right now I would use as a
    plunge bit making plunge cuts in the center of large sheets of Formica to
    open up an area that would then be made larger later on in the work process to
    make a long straight cut using that orange bit the base plate of the machine
    would then write against a straight edge that would be clamped to the work the
    yellow bit has a ball bearing roller guide on it so that will follow any
    profile that is clamped below the work surface of the plastic laminate whether
    it’s straight or curved this is the same yellow roller bearing guide bit running
    against a straight edge cutting a piece of polycarbonate and it will be just as
    straight and smooth as the guide that the roller bearing is following these
    bits rotate in a clockwise direction looking down from above so it’s best to
    move the machine at a direction so it tends to throw the chips and bits away
    from the work rather than into it it seems nothing ever fits right on the
    first try so a little marking here and there and then a trip back down to the
    ground it was easier actually to put 150 grit paper in
    sandir in sand to the blue line rather than set up the laminate trimmer and try
    to trim it out that way I had a problem when I went to the
    hardware store to buy the glue that I needed to put the Formica on to the
    bulkhead I asked the clerk standing in the aisle for contact cement and no
    matter how I asked him he assured me the smallest amount that they had was a
    50-pound bag so I was standing in the paint section I knew it had to be close
    by and then I finally saw the cans on the shelf contact adhesive they call it
    in these other countries so we had a good laugh about that one
    but I finally did get what I needed so now we are ready to stick the first
    piece in place this smelly solvent based adhesive works far better than the
    useless water-based contact adhesive and generally it takes two coats on the
    Formica or on the plastic laminate and I’ll just put one coat up on the wall in
    this case I’m just putting some around the perimeter this is risky business
    once this stuff sticks together there’s no manoeuvring it around it has
    to be a perfect exact plop up against the wall and there’s just no room for
    error so I’m just going to put some around the edges here it doesn’t matter
    if it’s not adhered in the center there’s going to be a bracket to hold a
    shelf in the middle and some other things so it’s going to be well adhered
    but it’s most important right now is just to get it glued in around the edges
    without messing up the project now that little projection up at the top left of
    the sheet of plastic laminate that’s where the old chain plate hole used to
    be but that’s all been filled in with epoxy and fiberglass over on the outside
    it’s totally sealed because we’re going to be making a new hole on this side of
    the plastic laminate so I made another template to match the front of this
    cabinet took that down cut out the Formica plastic laminate and then I mark
    the inside edge of the door opening with a magic marker
    and I’ll take that back down cut that out again it just makes it a little
    easier for putting on the contact cement and doing the final cutting do the exact
    dimensions of the door frame work with two coats of contact adhesive on the
    backside the plastic laminate and it is all dry
    almost dry to the touch of a fingertip to the glue it’s ready to set this in
    place it’s a very delicate precise operation to make sure everything gets
    lined up exactly if I really made a terrible mistake there’s a chance of
    getting a hair dryer set on high or using a clothes iron or maybe even a
    paint stripping heat gun set on low to heat up the plastic laminate and
    especially the glue underneath to loosen it up to pull it apart and then give
    myself a second try today is a lucky day now to route out the inside edge of the
    door frame so I set up the yellow bit with the bearing guide set that just
    deep enough to right inside of the door frame in to cut the plastic laminate
    going around in a clockwise direction so it throws all the chips and bits away
    from the work I just slowly follow the inside of the doorframe until the base
    plate of the laminate trimmer this won’t go any more we get hung up on the far
    side on the far right side but that’s no problem we’ve got a solution coming up
    and it isn’t doing it by hand putting the trimmer bit in an electric
    drill allows one to get it into some very tight places but the electric drill
    runs at a much slower rpm so you have to work slow and carefully or risk chipping
    out the work this boat is 43 years old and there’s
    things that just fall off of it like these cleats that are supposed to be
    adhered to the fiberglass hull and they hold up the horizontal deck slats so we
    cleaned things up a bit of sanding mix up some thickened epoxy with Caviezel
    and butter it all up and squeeze them in and then find something to help hold
    them in place until the glue sets taking everything apart to do the rebuild on
    this project not everything especially the teak pieces come out intact so some
    of the trim has to be glued back together with epoxy oftentimes clamps
    won’t hold it but rubber bands do fine and the rubber
    bands they don’t really get epoxy done it doesn’t adhere to well through the
    rubber bands and they can easily be sanded off anyway and that is sips job
    the whole time I’m inside doing this work sip is outside sanding teak and
    doing all the varnish work all of these flats were originally
    installed at the valiant factor using common steel grads so over the decades
    those grads just turned into a rusty mess they barely held anything it was
    really the compression fit the good work of the carpenters who cut exactly right
    and is that compression fit that was holding most of these slats in place and
    then the big problem was getting those rusty nails out of the wood they would
    just fall apart so most of them I had to drill out and then use putty to putty up
    and smooth and over those holes for reinstallation of all of these slats I
    used stainless steel pan head screws and set up string lines to follow to try to
    get as straight of a line as possible and the time came before putting up the
    fiberglass ceiling panel to cut the new access hole for the chain plate but
    first I put up very thick duct tape to help protect the new Formica and then
    using a multi-tool did a vertical plunge cut right up through the very thick
    fiberglass decking and it would be easy enough to avoid that hole from outside
    of the boat the multi-tool is a great tool to have on a sail boat and it has a
    blade that oscillates side-to-side and obviously can get into some very tight
    places to make sure that there was no rotten balsa coring in this area we
    opened the area up and dug everything out and then built it up with layers and
    layers of 1708 which is biaxial cloth with a chopped strand mat backing is
    solid it took a bit of reaming with a drill bit to open up the chain played
    hole and then this whole area was painted the chain plate was installed
    and then sealed in place with butyl sealant butyl tape actually and the heat
    gun was used to help liquefy the butyl a little bit make it more pliable and then
    crammed down into the gaps on either side of the chain plate for many
    applications especially around chain plates I prefer butyl in a caulking gun
    tube it’s just more pliable it’s easier to pump into the voids but unfortunately
    this butyl tube is empty but I save it just to show everywhere
    trying to buy more of it it’s american-made butyl and that’s the only
    kind of butyl in a caulking gun tube that is worth using Chinese all the
    foreign made butyl is just a lot of junk and it just isn’t the same stuff after
    that the only thing left to do was to install the shelves which was easy
    enough and then figure out what to do to replace that ready old insulation that
    was on the inside of the hull up in the stereo cabinet so let’s go into the
    marine store and see what they might have for insulation to glue up along the
    hull so the option for insulation to glue up
    on the wall was this rubber mat or this rubber mat 12 millimeters thick which is
    a little bit less than 1/2 inch and it felt like a rubber exercise mat and it
    came in either black or like early american-made cars black there was no
    option here on what to use so unless you’re dealing with Space Shuttle winged
    tiles where you can put a blowtorch on one side and comfortably put your hand
    on the other a half inch of anything available at the Marine store isn’t
    going to give us much insulating value aerogel is another super insulator but
    aerogel and space shuttle wing tiles are bit pricey and certainly limited
    availability especially for gluing up on the inside
    wall of sailboats so if you know of anything that works especially well
    that’s affordable for cruisers for insulating the inside of their sailboat
    if you can leave that information down below in the comments section that would
    be a great help to a lot of people so this insulation is really there to help
    prevent condensation inside of the boat don’t click off just yet we have a video
    progress report on the outside work of this boat
    well the bottom is already for copper coat all the puttying and patching and
    painting on the outside has been done we’ve gotten a lot of work done on this
    boat over the last 7 months there’s still a few more things to do but I’ve
    got a lot of video to put together so we have a lot of DIY videos coming up so
    thanks a lot for watching I hope this was worthwhile for you and if it was
    please give it a thumbs up and also click on the subscribe button if you
    haven’t already thanks a lot and we’ll see you soon a sip
    hey there’s my friendship yeah yeah thanks do you got it all
    started SIPP went to work full-time for a contractor here so I’m happy to give
    them a start and now we’ve got a lifetime job forever and this is our new
    guy the little rainy day today so we’re just finishing up polishing up some
    propane tanks do a little sanding on them and primer good rainy day work