Browsing Tag: fishing lures

    9 Lures for Tough Winter Bass Fishing | Bass Fishing
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    9 Lures for Tough Winter Bass Fishing | Bass Fishing

    December 10, 2019


    Glenn: All right. Got one. There you go. Keri: Hey, little guy. Little largemouth. Little guy had to eat it. Had to eat it. Had to eat it. Just had to have that split shot. Glenn: Give it to me. Keri: You’re fattening up, little guy. There you go. Glenn: Decent fish. Keri: That’s a pretty decent little guy. Glenn: That’ll work. Hey, folks. Glenn May here at BassResource.com. Today, I wanna talk about winter fishing. Primarily nine lures you need for winter bass
    fishing. This is not the only nine lures you can use,
    this is not the nine lures that are best for all the time of all time, the greatest nine
    lures, so don’t get upset if I don’t mention your lure. These are the nine, what I consider the nine
    most productive lures during the wintertime. Yes, there are other lures that work. I just wanna throw that disclaimer out right
    away. The thing you got to keep in mind during the
    wintertime is bass are…they’re not lethargic, they’re not slow-moving, they’re not hibernating,
    sleeping, whatever, what a lot of people think about bass, the bait is, the forage that they’re
    going after often is. Baitfish are struggling to stay alive. As the water temperatures get lower, they
    slow down, they’re not moving as much. Some of them are struggling to actually survive,
    so they’re dying off. A lot of them are dying off and falling, struggling
    to stay upright. Crawdads, their metabolism slows down, their
    movement slows down, they’re not skittering across the bottom as fast. Gobies, sculpin, same sort of thing. Everything slows down. All of the baitfish around that the bass are
    feeding on and the forage is slowing down. So, keep that in mind. The bite also will slow down because of that,
    but also bass are cold-blooded creatures. So, their metabolism is dictated and controlled
    by the water temperature. The higher the water temperature, the higher
    their metabolism is. Meaning they’ll feed more often. So, a bass may feed seven times a day during
    the peak of the summer, but in the wintertime, it’s more like once every seven days. So, there’s far fewer bass during the wintertime
    that are in feeding mode. So, just by that nature alone, the bite is
    going to be slower. It doesn’t mean the bass are slower and lethargic,
    there’s just less bass that are feeding and what they’re feeding on is moving slower. So, that’s really important when I go through
    these lures. Keep in mind you’re trying to imitate lethargic
    and slow-moving baitfish and forage, not, “Oh, I’ve got to go real slow and lethargic
    because the bass are lethargic.” It’s a different mindset, but it’s a way to
    keep focus on the way that you’re gonna move these lure I’m gonna talk about. So, let’s get down to it. In no specific order, the first lure I wanna
    talk about is deep suspending jerkbaits. What I mean by that is jerkbaits that dive
    down to 10 feet or more and actually just hover in place and don’t even move. Let it get down there and let it sit. And how you work it is just slight twitches,
    not real hard jerks. Again, you’re imitating something slow and
    lethargic, so slight twitches, little small jerks, and let it pause for a long amount
    of time. Minutes, not even moving. This is why you need a suspending jerkbait
    because you don’t want it to float up to the top while it’s paused. You can, sometimes I’ll take a little bit
    of solder wire and put it around the hook shanks to give it a little bit of weight so
    it sinks very slowly so it looks like a baitfish that’s dying and then I give a little jerk
    and I might pop up a little bit. That might help with the action a bit. But those are the types of baits that work
    really well. They imitate those dying baitfish and they
    can be very productive in the wintertime. The next winter bait I like to use is a blade
    bait. These seem pretty basic. They’re small, but they imitate a small minnow,
    a small baitfish. They have that vibrating characteristics of
    a lipless crankbait, but you can get them down deep. They cast a mile in the wind because there’s
    a good breeze right now. You’re often fishing in the wind in the wintertime. You just can’t get away from it and these
    baits are great and easy to cast through that and then work it at a variety of different
    depths. What I like to do is there’s two different
    ways to fish it. One is yo-yo it off the bottom, just rip it
    up off the bottom and let it flutter it back down. A lot of times the bites occur as you’re pulling
    it up off the bottom, you get that sudden movement, especially if you just let it sit
    on the bottom and long pause for a little bit and then pull it up off the bottom. That action can often trigger a strike. And a lot of times also I like to drag it
    across structure in deeper water. Just let it bounce and move and vibrate across
    that. It’s either I take the boat and just drift
    it over the top of structure, points, humps, that sort of thing, or I’ll reel it, I’ll
    cast over it and I’ll just reel it in nice and slow and then it can occasionally hit
    the bottom. And that works really well during the wintertime. Another type of bait that I like to use are
    jigging spoons, metal jigging spoons. Jigging spoons mimic a dying baitfish. So, this is a vertical presentation. You drop it down to the fish, let it hit the
    bottom and then pull it up off the bottom and let it flutter and fall on loose line
    and slackline. It looks like a dying baitfish. If you’ve ever watched them, they kind of
    zigzag down, they flutter, they twirl, it’s erratic. That, even though the spoon doesn’t look like
    anything in nature, that action mimics exactly a dying baitfish and that’s what the bass
    are triggering. So, you can fish a spoon over all kinds of
    different structure and different depths and use that action to trigger a lot of bites. Another metal bait that I like to use is the
    tail spinner. This is sort of a hybrid between the jigging
    spoon and the blade bait because you can fish it like a blade bait or like a jigging spoon. The two different methods that I just mentioned,
    the two different blades and different baits and how you fish them, that’s how you can
    fish a tail spinner both ways. So, it’s really a versatile bait and sometimes
    that little extra flash with that tailspin, a little bit of vibration is all you need
    to trigger bites. When they, say for example, won’t hit a spoon,
    but you fish a tail spinner the exact same way, sometimes you can get more bites out
    of that school of fish. You might catch a bunch with jigging spoons,
    say for example, and then the bite dies off, throw in a tail spinner and you might catch
    a few more. Another bait that I like to fish a lot during
    the wintertime is the underspin. This has been a bait that’s been around for
    a long, long time, but it’s really gained popularity in the last few years because it’s
    won several tournaments in the early, early spring. Actually, late winter when the water is almost
    at it’s coldest, underspins do really well. You just put on a little shad type plastic
    on the back of it, maybe a shad tail, just thread it on there and it imitates a little
    minnow, something like a tail spinner, but now you’re using a soft plastic. So, it has a little bit different action,
    maybe a little boot tail on there and it can really shine really well, fish it the same
    way you would a tail spinner. One of the things that I do is I’ll use some
    super glue to keep that soft plastic bait on that tail spinner. It keeps it from being tore up a lot. So, it might last several fish versus one
    or two sometimes because that soft plastic can tear so easily. So, use a bit super glue to put it on your
    tail spinner, might make it last a little bit longer. Another bait that really works well for me
    in the wintertime is your basic grub. I think this is a real underutilized bait,
    particularly around most of the United States, especially in the Southern areas. For some reason, grubs just have lost the
    popularity, but not with me. I got a lot of them. I’ve been fishing them for decades. It works year-round, but especially in the
    wintertime. What I’ll do is I’ll take just a bare football
    head jig, quarter ounce, sometimes up to a half-ounce football head jig, thread on a
    three-inch white grub, and this is what I fish in, deep, I’m talking 25 feet deep or
    deeper. So, the light penetration isn’t as much. This is why I use a white grub just to give
    some contrast on the bottom. The color isn’t…if I use a darker colored
    grub, it’s gonna blend in too much. Use a white grub. Throw it out over these deep structure. I’m looking at humps, ridges, submerged islands,
    long points and I’ll just drag it. Don’t lift and hop and make a lot of motion,
    but just put the trolling motor on slow, hang that rod out to the side and just drag that
    bait over that structure real slowly and you get a lot of bites that way. It can be very productive. So, don’t overlook a grub in the wintertime. Now, another bait that’s really productive
    during the wintertime is a jig. There’s really two different types of jigs
    that I use. One is your rubber skirted jig and I use that. You know, football head jig, again, because
    I’m fishing structure, but here I’ve got…the trailer I use on it, I won’t use one that’s
    got a lot of action and movement like a Rage Tail. I use something like a V&M Cherry Bug or something
    like that that doesn’t have a lot of movement or a Zoom Chunk. Those things just have less, a lot less movement,
    they look more natural during the wintertime. And I’ll fish those the same way I did with
    that grub that I just mentioned. Just drag it over that structure nice and
    slowly. Another type of jig I’ll use as a hair jig. So, on the bottom, you can crawl it again
    just like you did with the grubs and you’re mimicking, in this case, either a goby or
    say a sculpin and they stay on the bottom. Sculpins don’t have air bladders, so they
    don’t lift up off the bottom. So, keep that on the bottom, they’ll look
    natural. Or you can use a hair jig. If you find those baitfish and you can see
    where they intersect with the structure. Say baitfish are holding 20 feet of water,
    you can find a nice tapering point and that’s where they’re at. Bass will sit up underneath them and wait
    for those dying and dead baitfish falling through and they’ll engulf them. So, take your hair jig and drop it down through
    that school and sometimes you can catch a lot of fish. Works really well with balls of perch. Happens in the wintertime. They really bunch up in tight schools and
    you can just drop it down through that school of perch if you do it fast enough. I use a little bit heavier jig because the
    perch like to eat these things too. Punch it down through that school and when
    you reach those bass, it won’t reach the bottom. So, a hair jig can be really good. The next type of baits I like to use are finesse
    baits. Primarily, drop shot and split shot rigs. I’m using four-inch hand-poured finesse worms,
    that can be deadly during the wintertime. They don’t have a lot of movement, they’re
    very subtle. You can move them real slowly, crawl them
    on the bottom with a split shot or just barely off the bottom, I use a shorter leader during
    the wintertime than I do in the summertime. So, whereas in the summer, I’m using 18 to
    24-inch leader between the hook and the weight, I’ll use maybe 10-inch, 8-inch because the
    fish, a lot of times the bass are hanging out right on the bottom. So, I wanna get that bait right near them. So, a little finesse worm works really well
    for that little minnow imitation, three-inch minnow imitation. Again, moving it lethargically and slowly
    so it looks like a baitfish that’s just struggling to stay alive can really be appealing to the
    bass. And finally, the last lure that I like to
    use, and certainly not the least, one that’s very productive for me year-round, but especially
    productive in the wintertime is a three and a half-inch tube. I like to fish that again, on a split shot
    rig, drag that behind on a split shot, but I find it to be really productive if I just
    thread it on a jig head, little ball jig head with a wire guard on it. Quarter-ounce is all I need, maybe a 3/8-ounce,
    but nothing heavier than that. Sometimes I’ll even go lighter to an eighth-ounce
    because what you wanna do is you want it to spiral downwards, look like a dying baitfish,
    get that action in. And so it’s really the fall that you’re aiming
    for, especially early part of the winter when a lot of the baitfish are dying, that’s what
    you wanna key on. So, a lighter jig head, rig it a little cockeyed
    on the jig head so that it spirals downward, a death spiral can be really, really productive. Later on in the winter when there’s not as
    many baitfish that are dying, a lot of them have died off by now, then I’ll put it on
    a heavier jig head and just crawl it on the bottom and drag it like I showed you with
    the jigs and with the grubs. Those things, same thing with a tube can be
    extremely productive. Make sure you make long pauses every now and
    then. Don’t just constantly drag it, just move it
    along, give it a pause, wait a while, and then move it again real slowly. Just crawl along the bottom. Just make it look like a crawdad that’s slowly
    lumbering along that can’t get away or isn’t gonna move very quickly if a bass attacks
    it. It looks dynamite, it’s a great presentation. I love fishing tubes in the wintertime. So, those are the top baits that I find very
    productive during the wintertime. Again, it’s not the only baits you can use. I’ve caught bass on crankbaits and on spinnerbaits
    and topwaters and other lures during the wintertime, so don’t get all upset if I didn’t name your
    bait. Also, again, keep in mind these aren’t the
    best baits of all time, so I’m not giving that a list, this is just for wintertime only. If you have at least these nine baits in your
    tacklebox during the wintertime, you’re bound to catch some fish. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    HACK’D – How I Travel with ALL my Fishing Gear FOR FREE
    Articles, Blog

    HACK’D – How I Travel with ALL my Fishing Gear FOR FREE

    December 5, 2019


    Howdy, partner. Today I’m going to show you guys how I travel
    with all my fishing gear. Stay tuned. We have been getting a lot of questions and
    a lot of comments asking us, “how do you travel with all your fishing stuff? How do you bring your rods? How do you bring your reels? How do you bring all your sinkers and tackle
    and all that stuff?” and that’s a really good question. Um, and I guess it isn’t really too much common
    sense in that. I figured out how to bring all my stuff on
    the airplane for pretty much free. First off, fly Southwest. Southwest is great because it allows you two
    checked in bags for free and it’s great and the prices for the tickets are great, you
    can change the dates on those tickets that you’ve bought anytime, Southwest has always
    been really good for me, so first step: fly Southwest. Second step: when you’re packing your reels, when you’re packing your babies they need to be protected, okay? So this wasn’t even very protected when I
    pack my reels, I take this actual reel off so that there’s no chance of it getting damaged,
    so it’s like this and then I wrap this up in a towel and put it into a big bag along
    with my other reels, so in here I’ve got one, two–see, these are the pouches I’m talking
    about, you can get these from Bass Pro, you can get these from online, you wrap your reels
    up with them. I’ve got–that’s where this reel went–little
    tiny micro reel… This isn’t even mine! Stephen, this is your mom’s reel. Anyways, when I pack my reels, I break ’em
    down, I put them into individual bags, and then I put it into a bigger bag and this does
    not go in checked in luggage. They like to—the TSA likes to throw my bags
    around and I don’t want any chance of my very precious fishing reels to get damaged or broken
    so what I do with this bag of reels is I put it in my backpack for carryon, that way I
    can protect it in my, right here, okay? I keep it right here at all times and I just
    kind of coddle it like this, throughout the flight, and if they start making–you know,
    fussing and stuff, I just say “Chh, chh, chh, chh, chh…… Chhh, chh, chh, chh, chh…” and I kind of
    rock it back and forth a little bit—- I’m just kidding, guys. You can’t take yourself too seriously. Okay, any–I’m not kidding about actually
    bringing it onto the plane and holding it in front of you, um, that’s the best way to
    keep your reel safe. Don’t check it in. Carry on. Okay? Next, for my actual rods and stuff, um, I
    check that-I check that in, uh, but I do this with–I do this with the travel rod carrier,
    and this thing, I think it runs–the price tag here says $70, something like that, close
    to that, I got it from Bass Pro, I have many of these, and the way that these things work
    is there’s a clip right here that you can put a lock on—elaughhh. There’s a pin, you pull the pin and this thing
    will extend–oops…. and this thing will extend to whatever length you need it, then
    you put your rods inside this big tube right here, maybe wrap it with a towel so that it
    doesn’t swing around, and then you basically just put the pin back in and you check this
    in as oversized and Southwest doesn’t charge us extra for this, um, when you go and pick
    up your rods it’ll be in oversized luggage but it’s kind of—I get weird looks sometimes
    because I’m walking around with what looks like– a bazooka in the airport… Now as for, like all of my fishing tackle,
    what kind of tackle should I bring? You know, that’s always a struggle for me
    is, “How much can I bring without being over 50lbs,” and like, “What all do I even need
    to use on that trip?” So what you really need to do is think about
    what kind of fishing you’re going to be doing most. the key of this is to be very compact and
    selective with what you bring, um, so Southwest allows you two checked in carryons–Southwest
    allows you two checked in bags, I use one of those bags just for my tackle so I have
    a whole suitcase just for my tackle. Now let me show you what I pretty much pack
    almost every time I go. Okay, in this bag I’ve got all my lures, okay? These are my swimbaits, I make individual
    boxes like this for different adventures, so this is my swimbait adventure. It’s got all my jig heads in here, little,
    smaller lures, this bag also has my swimbait stuff, leader line… pretty much always bring
    the Super Salty Squid nowadays… more swimbaits, yeah, so I’ve made separate boxes and separate
    bags for different adventures that I think I’m going to take. This is my swimbait bag, my lures bag, and
    then I’ve got my own bait box. Terminal tackle box so I’m pretty much prepared
    at any moment to throw a hi-low rig, or a Carolina rig, or a fish finder rig just by
    bringing this one box. I’ve got my lures and I’ve got my rigs. Um, these boxes are really similar to the
    ones in the Adventure Kits that we make right here, we developed these because it’s pretty
    much exactly what I do for myself anyways, comes with a guide on um, how to fish these
    different places, uh, this is a pier fishing one, comes with all the stuff that I use for
    my pier fishing, this one is my surf fishing, comes with all the stuff that I use for the
    surf fishing, um, and this is the jetty one, but I would bring just the boxes, I don’t
    need the guide for myself i’ll bring just the boxes for separate adventures. If you want to go on one of these adventures,
    the inlet, if you’re going to the inlet, or if you’re going to the surf or if you’re going
    to the pier, I suggest you pick one of these up if you wanna just get on some fish right
    away. It’s just, it’s got a comprehensive guide
    on here that I’ve written myself on all the different advice that I’ve found to be true
    in a lot of the places that I fish so hopefully this will get you on some fish, and if you’re
    going on a trip soon, I always bring the super salty squid because it travels so well, uh
    you don’t need to–a lot of times when I’m at a place, especially a really good fishing
    location, a lot of times there’s not many bait shops around, um I like to go to more
    remote areas because I find that the fishing in remote areas usually is a lot better than
    somewhere where it’s very, very populated, um, and I’ve encountered this problem in Mexico,
    where there were no bait shops anywhere! It was so hard to find any kind of bait shops,
    that’s why I was so glad I brought myself my own Super Salty Squid, I didn’t have to
    go out and scout out for bait every day. Instead, I was scouting out for bait on the
    beach and using this. I put all this stuff in my backpack
    and then I put it in here and whatever other fishing gear I use, minus the reels, reels
    stay with me, and I check this in and then I have my regular luggage that I check in,
    um, but yeah, that’s it. This is not the only way to do it, this is
    the way I do it and it’s been working out for me for years and years, um, hopefully
    this can help someone, inspire someone to maybe take a trip, hopefully this can help
    people travel with their fishing gear with the appropriate fishing gear, I know a lot
    of you guys travel to go on vacation with the family or whatever and don’t bring your
    fishing stuff because you don’t think you’ll have enough or whatever, it’s very doable,
    it’s very doable and if you don’t want to use, if you don’t want to use your–a big
    rod tube, bring a telescopic rod. A telescopic rod will fit right in your backpack
    and you can just bring it with this in your backpack, bring one of your adventure kits
    and you’re good to go. I want to encourage everyone out there to
    get out of their comfort zone and see what the fishing’s like around the world. That’s what we’ve been doing for the past
    year and a half, two years, and it’s been really fantastic, because a lot of the skills
    that we’ve learned fishing right here, it applies all over the world. So if you know how to fish in one area, you
    can figure out how to fish in another area and it feels really rewarding when you actually
    are able to catch fish in another country you’ve never been in before, it’s really fun. Anyways, that’s my little talk. I hope you guys enjoyed it, I hope it can
    inspire you, I hope you can learn something, let me know in the comments below if you have
    any more hacks that you wanna let me know about that can save me even more money. If you liked our episode, like and subscribe,
    we have a little notification bell Next to the subscribe button, if you push that you’ll
    be notified every time we put out an episode and we put out an episode four times a week,
    so you don’t want to miss any of that. If you wan to try the super salty squid or
    you want to try an adventure for yourself go to senkoskipper.com. See ya, guys!

    Bass Fishing Questions Answered! Vol 1 | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Bass Fishing Questions Answered! Vol 1 | Bass Fishing

    December 4, 2019


    Glenn: There we go. Good fish. Here we go. Stay down. Come here. Here we go, baby. Come on aboard. Look at that. How do you like that, guys? Wow. Again, just right in the roof of the mouth. That’s where you want him. That’s a good fish right there. All right. Nice four-pounder right here. All right. Ready? Hey, folks, Glenn May here at BassResource.com. And today I’m going to answer a bunch of questions
    that we received over the past couple of months via our Facebook page and also via email and
    I hope that it answers your questions as well. And we got a lot of really good ones. So listen up. This is going to be an education dump today. Starting with this first question. “Hey Glenn, when I’m fishing heavy cover,
    what rod and reel is best suited for making a long cast with light lures?” All right, so this is a tricky one because
    typically when you’re fishing heavy cover, you want to use a stout rod and reel to wrench
    those fish out of the cover. But here you’re asking, “How do I get longer
    casts with light lure? How do I do that and still fish heavy cover?” So for the rod, I would fish a seven-foot,
    medium-heavy rod with a moderate action tip. Okay? Medium-heavy power rod, moderate action. That moderate piece is really what you want. You can go with fast action as well but not
    extra fast. What that does is the tip of the rod is a
    lot more flexible, so it’s going to allow you to use that tip of the rod to throw that
    light lure longer. But the rest of the rod is, you know, medium-heavy
    has got that stout action that you’re going to need for wrenching fish out of that heavy
    cover and being able to control them. So you’ve got kind of a balance of both. The reel would be a baitcasting reel but really
    what’s important on that is a couple of things. First of all, you have the ability to control
    the brakes on it, so at least that has both the mechanical and magnetic brakes on it. I prefer to have reels that have mechanical,
    magnetic and pin breaks, all three of them. That really helps me fine-tune the action
    on it and the castability on it. Especially when fishing light lures, you need
    to have those little fine-tune adjustments to be able to avoid getting lots of backlashes. The other component is to use braided line
    but lighter braided line. So in heavy cover, typically you’re fishing
    40-50 pound braid or more even 65-pound braid. But that’s going to limit your casting distance
    due to its heavyweight and it doesn’t peel off the reel as fast as easily. So I would go down to about a 20-pound test
    braided line, that comes off the spool a lot easier, a lot smoother, and it’s gonna allow
    you to make those longer casts. I hope that helps. So this question is about jig fishing. Other than using a heavier jig, what suggestions
    do you have to help me detect strikes while jig fishing? Well, honestly, I wouldn’t use a heavier jig,
    to begin with, because the lighter the jig you can get away with the more strikes you’re
    going to get. Because most of the bites occur on the fall. So the slower it’s falling, the more it’s
    in that strike zone, the more apt it is to get bit. So to detect those strikes there’s really
    two main things that I do. One of them is as it’s falling I pay super
    close attention to the line, whether I’m using braid or fluorocarbon, I really focus on where
    that line is entering the water and pay close attention. If it jumps, twitches, moves to one side or
    maybe even it accelerates faster as it’s falling, that’s usually something on the other end
    of the line messing with it, usually a bass. So just visually seeing that change can help
    you detect strikes. I also do a countdown method, by the way. If I’m, you know, throwing a jig and I count
    one, two, three, okay, hit the bottom. And I can make another cast, one, two, three,
    almost four and it hits the bottom. So I’ve got an idea between three and four-count
    hits the bottom and I make a cast one, two. Okay. Well sometimes bass come up and grab it and
    they just hold onto it. And so when it just suddenly stops for no
    reason, set the hook, that might be a bass. So again, really paying close attention to
    that jig while it’s falling. The other thing I do is once that jig is on
    the bottom, I like to hold the rod tip up at an angle above the nine o’clock position. So I have a better connection between the
    rod and the line and the jig that’s down there. That helps me feel any kind of movement, a
    slight subtle pick up, a light strike. With a line being tight like that, it’ll transmit
    that down the line onto the rod and down into my hands. And I have a better feel so I can feel those
    bites that I may not see on a tight line. So with those two things combined, I think
    I’m going to catch a lot more fish. Hope that helps. There you go. Nice. They’re in here. Keri: Come here you. Glenn is getting a net. Come here, baby. Come here. Come here. Oh, come on, Glenn. Come on, Glenn. There we go. There we go. He’s got a sore on his tongue. Yeah, he does. Glenn: He’s all right. There you go. He’s very resilient. All right. Here’s a good question about budget and baitcasting
    reels. “If I can afford to buy only one quality baitcasting
    reel, what gear ratio would you recommend?” All right, so you need a baitcasting reel
    that’s going to do a variety of things. So that kind of wipes out the bookends of
    the big casting world. So like a 4.7:1 gear ratio that’s really low
    or maybe even a 3 something that’s a real low gear ratio. It has a lot of power, great for fishing,
    you know, heavy cover but that’s not going to help you when you’re fishing say buzzbaits,
    spinnerbaits and crankbaits. On the other end of the spectrum you have
    you know, 8:1, 9:1, even I think there’s some reels over 10. Those are high-speed reels, great for fishing
    those faster moving lures but they don’t have a lot of power for when you’re fishing, say,
    flipping and pitching into heavy cover. So you need something in the middle. For me, I like reels… Most of my reels are between 6.8:1 and to
    7.5:1. That’s the majority of my reels because those
    are pretty much all-purpose, multi-purpose. You can use them for a variety of applications
    and you’re not really sacrificing anything. So that’s the main thing I would look for
    from a gear ratio. But if, again, I had a tight budget and I’m
    looking for a reel, I don’t think gear ratio would be the primary thing I’m looking for
    primarily because there’s a lot of great reels out there that come in those gear ratios. So I would look at other things. For example, the drag. How powerful is the drag? I don’t like any reels that are less than
    14-pound drag. I like something that’s got a real good strong
    stout drag. Typically that also means a smoother drag
    because it’s a better drag system. Also the ability to control your casting. So different casts control, the more it has,
    the better. Yeah, great if it has a mechanical cast control
    but if it has that paired with magnetic, that helps me fine-tune, say, in windy conditions. And if it also comes with pin cast control
    on it, that helps me fine-tune it even further for the different types of lures, weights
    and different styles and types of fishing that I’m doing. So those are the type of things I’d really
    focus on first before I look at gear ratio. I hope that helps and I hope you get yourself
    a great reel. Here’s a question about crankbait fishing. “What would you say are the two most important
    elements in crankbait fishing?” Well, it’s funny, all of us bass anglers we
    tend to focus on color. But the reality is, you know, color, size
    of the lure, those types of things actually are very important. But what I look at first is how deep that
    lure is going to run and how fast or slow can I retrieve it? Because that’s about the presentation. First of all, getting it down to the right
    depth. You need to get the lure where the fish is,
    otherwise, it doesn’t matter. All the other elements mean nothing because
    you’re not going to get bit. So that’s like the primary one. How deep does it run? If the fish are shallow, fishing a deep diving
    crankbait isn’t going to get bit and vice versa. So number one, how deep does this crankbait
    go for where the fish are that day? The other thing I really look for is how fast
    of a retrieve or slow of a retrieve does it need? Some days fish want to attack fast-moving
    lures, so I want to lure that can get down to that depth and I can retrieve it at a fast
    speed. Other times they want something that’s barely
    moving, so that requires a deeper diving crankbait, for example, that can stay down and still
    move slow. So those are the two primary things that are
    really important for me and crankbaits. Then, you know, not to say there’s other elements
    that aren’t important because after those two pieces, then I look at things, for example,
    like the size of the bait or the color. I hope that helps. Hope you catch a lot more crankbait fish. Here’s a great question for bank fishermen. “Glenn, what are the most important things
    you look for when you’re fishing from the shoreline?” Well, there’s really two main things that
    I look for when I’m fishing a shoreline. One, I want to find deeper cuts and deeper
    water near the shoreline. Those types of things. Like, for example, a creek channel and a little
    bend comes in close to the water or maybe there’s a small little flat but right near
    it there’s a drop. Those depth changes are the things that really
    attract bass. It doesn’t have to be super deep, it just
    has to be a change in bottom contour to attract bass. So that’s number one. And the other thing is cover. Bass need some kind of cover to relate to. It might be weeds, it might be rocks, it could
    be laydowns or maybe a log is on the water or stumps but you have a contour change that
    is combined with some sort of cover and those are the things I’m going to target when I’m
    shoreline fishing. Here’s a great question that all of us can
    relate to. “Hey, besides telling me you’re as frustrated
    with the wind as I am, really are there any advantages to fishing in the wind or should
    you just stay at home?” That’s really a good question because, man,
    I could fish in rain, I could fish in cold, I could fish in heat. But man, when it is windy out, that wears
    you out sometimes for a lot of reasons. It’s hard to control the boat. It’s hard to cast. It’s hard to control your presentation. Really other than having an extreme windy
    condition where it’s not safe out, there is adage to, a saying, “The wind is a fisherman’s
    friend.” It actually can be a good thing for several
    reasons and I’m just going to hit a few of them. One of them is that it breaks up the light
    penetration and when that happens bass tend to roam more freely. They tend to be more aggressive and it conceals
    and kind of camouflages your lure a little bit more. So, for example, if you’re fishing the spinnerbait,
    it makes it look a little more lively, more realistic and the bass are more apt to hit
    it. So that’s number one. And another reason is, the water can be oxygenated
    more with wind. Especially if you’re fishing, say, in the
    summertime when the water temperatures are really high and the water has less of capability
    of holding dissolved oxygen, you get a lot of wind and it’ll churn up that surface and
    it’ll get some oxygen going and that will get the whole food chain going. Bass will move up shallower and they’ll feed
    on those baitfish that are moving up shallow feeding upon all the plankton in all the algae
    that’s been worked free from the waves and the wind. Wind also, if it’s been blowing a consistent
    direction for quite a while, at least several hours, it can produce some amount of current,
    not a ton but a little bit of current is better than none and bass will set up on those breakpoints. If you’ve got, say, for example, bridge pilings
    or you’ve got a point and the winds going across the point or those chokepoints where
    there’s narrow areas that the water can get through with the winds blowing right down
    through it, bass will set up on those areas and will ambush whatever lure you bring by. Also, wind can turn on areas where typically
    they’re not productive. I have a spot on a lake that I fish, it’s
    a stretch of rip rap. The water’s really clear and typically when
    you go through there with crankbaits, jigs or drop shots, what have you, you pick up
    a couple of fish here and there but it’s not all that productive. However, I’ve learned when the wind picks
    up and it’s anything over say 12,13 miles an hour, the stronger the better and is blowing
    right up against that rip rap, man, I run to that spot because I’ve had days where I’m
    catching literally every cast, every single cast with crankbaits. It’s a bonanza. I’ll catch 25, 30 fish in a matter of 45 minutes. So wind can really turn on an area that way. Wind also can create mud lines. If it’s hitting the shoreline, you’ve probably
    noticed this with a lot of wind in areas that have this loose topsoil, you’ll find this
    mud that comes out five, six feet, maybe more off the shoreline. Well, the fish will use that mud line just
    like it would a weed line. They’ll conceal themselves right inside that
    muddy water and then they’ll jump out and hit any baitfish that happen by. So if you fish that mud line, you can get
    really productive results. So wind can be really productive. It can really help you fish areas that otherwise
    are not productive or can turn a non-productive day into a fishing bonanza. Just be safe out there. If you don’t feel comfortable out there, you
    feel like you’re in danger, get off that water. Fishing is supposed to be fun guys, so don’t
    risk your life just to catch a few fish. All right. That’s it for today’s questions. If I didn’t get to yours, don’t worry, we’re
    going to do a lot more in the weeks to come. And if you have any questions that you’ve
    thought about while watching this, hey, feel free to hit me up at this email down below
    or come to our Facebook page and leave us a message and hopefully, we’ll get to your
    question soon. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    7 Winter Bass Fishing Tips to Catch Stubborn Bass | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    7 Winter Bass Fishing Tips to Catch Stubborn Bass | Bass Fishing

    December 3, 2019


    Hey, folks. Glenn May here with BassResource.com. Today I want to talk about seven winter bass
    fishing tips that can help you catch more bass this wintertime. You know, it’s funny I do get people that
    ask me, “Hey, can you catch fish during the winter?” Absolutely. You sure can. There’s a misconception that the bass just
    kind of hibernate, hang out, don’t really eat much, and it’s hard to catch them. They’re really lethargic and slow and all
    these other things I hear about. And the reality is, bass are cold blooded
    creatures and the water temperature is what dictates their metabolism. Meaning, they’ll eat a lot more and their
    metabolism, they’ll churn through those calories a lot faster when the water is warm versus
    when it’s cold. So in the summertime, they may eat seven times
    a day, whereas in the wintertime, they might eat once every seven days. So the bite is going to be a lot slower. Imagine if your lake that you love to fish
    in had 75% less fish all of the sudden. You’re presenting your lure to less fish that
    are more apt to bite your lure because there’s less fish that are in the feeding mode in
    the wintertime. So just have that mindset going in. It’s going to take a little bit more work
    to get bites. But it can be worthwhile because this time
    of the year is when the bass are real fat, they’re big, they’re almost at the biggest
    they’re going to be all year round. So when you do catch a fish, it’s going to
    be a good one. So let’s get into the seven tips. Starting out with number one, bait choice. Bait choice is actually easier during the
    wintertime because as a general rule, the bass aren’t aggressively hitting topwater
    baits and fast moving lures. So that kind of eliminates topwater, spinnerbaits,
    crankbaits, those type of things. And instead, you’re looking for bottom hugging
    baits or baits that stay near the bottom, or baits that represent dying baitfish. Because this time of year, the baitfish and
    the forage the bass are feeding on are far more affected by the cold temperatures than
    the bass. And actually as it gets colder down into the
    mid-40s and lower, these fish are struggling to stay alive. You know, especially if you have like threadfin
    shad, that sort of thing, they’re dying off. So lures that imitate that action can really
    pay off for you in the wintertime. So for example, using metal baits, blade baits
    and spoons are really good baits to use because they mimic dying fish, that action, the falling,
    fluttering, dart and diving action that baitfish look like when they’re dying. It triggers that instinctual behavior in bass
    and you can get bit that way. Using jigs crawled on the bottom, they look
    like slow moving gobies or slow moving sculpin or even crawdads that are moving along in
    the bottom. You know, they’re not going to hop and jump
    and bounce around. Sculpin for example, don’t have air bladders. So they can’t jump. So keep it on the bottom, crawl it nice and
    slow to mimic the prey that the bass are keying on. Another type of baits to use are jerkbaits. Deep diving suspended jerkbaits can be really
    productive this time of year, those that get down to 10 feet or more and just sit there
    and suspend. It’s a great bait to use. You don’t pull on it as hard as you normally
    do during the warmer months. So it’s more subtle jerks, don’t move the
    bait as far, and the pauses are a lot longer, three to five minutes. I mean, long, long pauses, barely move it. This is why it needs suspending because you
    don’t want it to float back up to the top. Sometimes what I’ll do is I’ll take like some
    golfer’s tape or something like that or take some solder wire, wrap it around the hook
    shanks to give it a little bit more weight, not a ton, but just enough to make it slowly
    barely sink. Because again, there’s long pauses in between
    so you don’t need it to fall rapidly. But that’ll give it that kind of dying fish
    action again, and you give it those little twitches and it looks just like a dying baitfish. So those jerkbaits can be really, really productive. And then finally, I like to use finesse tactics
    using drop shot and split shot rigs. I’ll throw things like three-inch tubes, maybe
    three-inch minnow type baits, or four-inch finesse worms, those hand poured finesse worms
    on these rigs. And again, crawl on them nice and slow on
    the bottom, trying to imitate those baitfish or this forage that’s moving real slow can
    really trigger a lot of bites. So that’s number one, lures. The second tip I can give you, like I mentioned
    earlier, is moving it really slow, if you haven’t got a theme yet. It’s because the baitfish are really lethargic. And the forage is really lethargic. And so they’re moving slow. It’s not because the bass are lethargic and
    that they can’t chase down a fast-moving bait. They can and will. They’re still able to do that. But it will look out of place if you’re moving
    a bait really fast because all the forage that the bass are keying on right now are
    struggling to stay alive at times. And so they’re moving slow, they’re moving
    lethargic, and they’re moving irradically. So you want to mimic that behavior. That’s what they’re really triggering on right
    now. So if you just move your bait really fast
    across the water, well, it looks out of place. So slow down your bait movement, focus on
    those slow, methodical moves. You really have to focus hard on that bite
    because it’s gonna be real subtle, but that’s the key to catch them during the wintertime. Tip number three, if you’re fishing current,
    fishing rivers, that sort of thing, look for eddies, look for little shallow areas that
    are off the main current area, the main river, places where the water can get stagnant for,
    you know, lack of a better word. Those are areas that will warm up. If you get a quick little warming trend, it
    gets sunny out, those areas will warm up and the bass will go in there because baitfish,
    again, they’re trying to survive the winter. So just a couple degrees difference is all
    they need. You know, so they’ll move up in those areas,
    little back pockets out of the current to help survive the winter and those bass will
    follow right in. So look for those areas, those little back
    pockets and back current areas. Those things can be really productive for
    rivers. The next tip, for lakes, you want to look
    as a general rule, deeper water. You want to find areas that for example, if
    you knew an area that was really productive during the pre-spawn on this lake last spring,
    back up a little bit, go a little bit deeper near there and start there looking for fish. You want to start…I usually look around
    15, 20 feet and go all the way down to 55 feet deep. And you’re looking for structure, you’re looking
    for long lake points, humps, ridges. Deeper water typically is more stable during
    the wintertime so the water temperatures don’t fluctuate as much and it’s a little bit warmer,
    because that surface temperature changes more rapidly as it gets colder during the wintertime. So those deeper temperatures are where the
    baitfish are going to be, and that’s where the bass hang out chasing them. Tip number five, use your electronics to find
    those deep water areas. You have to understand what you’re seeing
    on your depth finder to be able to find these great areas that can hold a lot of fish, and
    to find the baitfish. Typically, what I like to do is find balls
    of baitfish and figure out what depth they’re hanging out at and look at the structure,
    look at the map of the lake and find those points, those ridges, those humps that intersect
    at that depth level. That’s where I’ll begin fishing. And the depth finder is really important in
    locating those areas. It’s more than just finding out how deep it
    is, it’s looking at, are you looking at boulders versus chunk rock versus gravel? Can you find something that’s hanging out
    on that point? Say if it’s a stump, or maybe big boulders
    on the point. Those type of things is where the bass are
    going to be holding. You’re not looking specifically for bass,
    but baitfish and then the structure and hopefully something on that structure that’s going to
    locate them. Understanding what you’re seeing and interpreting
    your graph is going to be super important during the wintertime and to help you succeed
    better. The next tip, number six, dress for success. I can’t emphasize enough the need to wear
    warm clothing. I dress in layers. I have, you know, thermals on, and then I
    have a layer of clothing over that, and then I have a nice warm jacket over that, it’s
    a wind-proof, rain-proof jacket. If you don’t have rain-proof jacket, then
    make sure you got your rain gear nearby, both your bibs and your jacket in case the weather
    turns bad. You don’t have to fall in the water to have
    effects of hypothermia. Cold weather, especially wet cold weather,
    you can get hypothermia during the wintertime, trust me. Been there, done that, I have a t-shirt, don’t
    want another one. It’s not fun. Dressing warmly is critical to your success. Not only is it safer in the wintertime but
    also, being comfortable, being dry, will enable you to focus more on fishing and what you
    need to do and concentrate. If you’re uncomfortable and cold, you’re not
    gonna be able to focus as much on fishing. So dress for success. And finally, tip number seven is be patient
    and keep your focus. As I mentioned earlier, in the wintertime,
    the bass, there’s just not as many that are biting. So the bites are going to be few and far between. So understand that going in, it’s not going
    to be fast and furious like you would have normally during the summertime. There are exceptions. I have caught bass on New Year’s Day on buzzbaits. But that doesn’t happen very often in the
    wintertime. For the most part, it’s slow fishing. So know that going in, be patient. And the other thing you need to do is absolutely
    maintain your focus. This is difficult to do when the bite is really
    slow. You’ve gone an hour or so and you haven’t
    had a bite and your buddy wants to talk or you listen to the radio or you’re looking
    at the shoreline and what’s going on, whatever it is, you’re distracted. Those bites because you’re moving so slow
    with your baits, they’re very subtle. The bass don’t have to run down and annihilate
    and hit and attack your bait. So the bites aren’t going to be real strong
    bites. For the most part, they’re going to be real
    subtle. I’ve seen it where I’ve had my bait in 35
    feet of water and the rod tip just moves, you know, a 16th of an inch, not even an 8th. You can’t even see my finger moving, I bet. It barely moves. And I’m looking at that rod tip going, “You
    know, I didn’t do that.” So either I just pulled across a weed or a
    rock or something as the boat moved a little bit or maybe something on the other end bit
    it. And there’s been times I’ve just set the hook
    just to see what’s there and it’s a fish. The bite is that subtle. If you’re not focused and paying attention
    all the time, you’re going to miss that. And you could miss out on the trophy of a
    lifetime because a lot of these fish are really big this time of year. So pay close attention, be patient and follow
    these seven different tips I just gave you, and it’s going to up your chances of catching
    some really nice fish this winter. Good luck. And for more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    Evergreen Flat Force Crankbaits | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Evergreen Flat Force Crankbaits | Bass Fishing

    December 3, 2019


    Glenn: Hey, folks, Glenn May here with BassResource.com
    and I am here today with my buddy, Justin Kerr, FLW Pro. Also WON Bass and B-A-S-S and all…he’s up
    and down the West Coast. He’s a crazy phenom. You guys have got to – if you don’t know him
    – look him up. But we’ve been fishing here at Lake Havasu
    here in November and we’ve been slaying them on this new bait I haven’t seen before. Justin has been privy to be able to use these
    when they first came out. So, Justin, tell me a little bit about these
    baits here and how we are using them. What kind of rod and reel and the line that
    we’ve been doing here. Justin: Yeah, this is an Evergreen International,
    new Flat Force Crankbait. It is a flat-sided crankbait and it has a
    computer chip bill which is very popular when, you know, when you’re using a flat-sided bait. And it is an extremely good bait. Like you said today, we’ve been catching them
    and it wiggles a lot. When you wind it super fast, it’s one of those
    baits that you can fish in different areas, different water columns, strike zones, different,
    you know, like, for example, like, a couple months ago, they were schooling in 25 feet
    of water and I’m out there throwing this thing in 25 feet of water. So, you know, I am running it between 10 and
    14 pound line, fluorocarbon. So, obviously, it varies on the depth. Today, we’re using a 10 pound line. Glenn: Right. I noticed it was getting down a little bit
    deeper than that. Justin: Yeah, it will hit about six to eight
    foot on 10 pound line and I’m using a Combat Stick 71M – it’s a medium rod. And it actually says Topwater Jerkbait on
    the rod but we use it for cranking a lot for a shallow crankbait. I find it working really good for a crankbait
    but it also does work for jerkbait and topwater and then Daiwa’s seven to three reel. And it’s, I think, it’s important at fall
    this time of year to keep your bait moving as fast as you can. So that’s just kind of how we fish it and
    it’s been an unbelievable bait. And, just, you know, couple different colors
    I’ve been using. I don’t know if the camera can see them but
    this is a Ghost, Wakasagi Flash, Cold Shad in chartreuse blue, but today, obviously,
    this color, I mean, it’s a staple everywhere. So it’s a fish-catching machine and we’ve
    been catching them. Glenn: Yeah, fishing it really fast and giving
    it some hard jerks. It’s not pausing it, it’s actually ripping
    it really hard. And they clobber it when you give it that
    quick change. That’s what triggers the bite. So sometimes, guys, it’s great. You can cast straight out and just reel it
    back in. You’ll get bites that way. But if the fish aren’t biting, you can force
    them or trick them into biting by giving it erratic action. In this case, we’re just giving it a good
    hard yank every once in a while, randomly, and that’s usually when you get the bite. Justin: Yeah, we have some grass right now
    so that’s the big key. And, like I said, we are using a little lighter
    line for the grass situation. We are using that 10 pound test. A lot of places, we can get away with 20 pound
    in the grass, but Lake Havasu is such a finesse fishery that we’re using a little bit lighter
    line – that 10 pound – and we’re still keeping it moving and ripping it out of that grass. And a lot of times, like you said, the fish
    aren’t really feeding. They’re just sitting up in the grass and this
    bait comes by them and it gets them. Glenn: And we’ve been hitting them. Of course, it’s the fall feeding frenzy. But I can see this working really well in
    the spring and even in the summertime when they are in the grass. Justin: Yeah, there’s really no limit to the
    bait, obviously. And any bait in any situation, you got to
    keep an open mind to fishing. So there’s not really – I’d say for any type
    of baiting situation where this is the only bait to throw – but, you know, year-round,
    I’ve seen this bait. I’ve been using it for about a little over
    a year now. Glenn: You have? Okay. Justin: Yeah. And we, you know, used some prototypes and
    stuff. So this bait, like I said, I mean, I’ve used
    it. This summer was one of the best years I’ve
    had with it so it’s just a versatile bait. Glenn: Now where can guys get this? Justin: Tackle Warehouse, I’d say, is the
    number one. Anglers Marine, Tackle Warehouse usually carries
    most of our stuff or pretty much everything. Glenn: All right. Check it out guys, you’re going to like it.

    5 Best Lures For Fall Bass Fishing | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    5 Best Lures For Fall Bass Fishing | Bass Fishing

    November 29, 2019


    Glenn: Hey folks, Glenn May here at BassResource.com
    and today I wanna talk about the five best lures for fishing in the fall. Now, that’s kind of an odd thing to say, because
    in the fall, the fish are very aggressive. They’re chasing baitfish. They bite a lot of different lures. So, excuse me, it can be a bonanza. There are times you can throw virtually anything
    in and you’re gonna catch fish. So what I want to talk about is really one
    of the five main ones that catch a lot of fish for me, during the fall. With these five, you are guaranteed to catch
    fish at some point in the fall, whereas some of the other ones may not be as productive. So let’s start off with the buzz bait, or
    topwater lures, in general. Buzz bait, I also like to use Zara Spooks,
    but buzz baits and Zara Spooks catch big fish in the fall. Keri: Woah. Glenn: Woah. Keri: He missed. Glenn: There he goes. No, he got it. He came back. Keri: He came all the way out of the water. Glenn: He came back and hit it twice. Keri: He came all the way out of the water
    for that. That was awesome. Glenn: He missed it, turned around, and hit
    it again. Keri: Hit it again. Nice looking buzz bait fish, all day long. Face full of buzz bait. Come here, baby. Oh, boy. Let me see if I can get you up. I don’t know how I got you hooked. I’m trying kiddo. Nice little guy. Glenn: Yeah. Keri: He came all the way out of the water. Holy smokes. That just shocked me. Okay little guy go have fun. Evidently I got the fin. Glenn: I like to throw them over the tops
    of weed beds. As fish are moving up shallow, they’re moving
    into the backs of coves. They’re moving into the backs of bays, these
    big flats, these weed flats. They set up shop in there and that’s what
    works really well over the tops of them. And these fish are so aggressive, they’ll
    come out of those weed beds like a Polaris missile and just clock them. Man, it’s crazy. Especially buzz baits, you can cover a lot
    of water quickly with that. If you can tune that buzz bait to hit like
    say, if you’re dock piling. You’re fishing a lot of docks or in stumps,
    and you bounce it off of that and change that direction a little bit, you’ll catch a lot
    of fish that way. It also works well on some of the points that
    are sitting out there, secondary points, fish will sometimes sit on that and you can bring
    a buzz bait over the top of that, and the fish, there’s no problem for the fish, this
    time of year, to come up out of 15 feet of water to clock a topwater or buzz bait. Glenn: That’ll work. Glenn: So that’s number one. The second bait that I like to fish, is a
    spinnerbait. Now, if the fish just aren’t quite committing
    to a topwater, maybe they’ll chase it down and follow it, but they won’t bite it, it’s
    a good time to switch over to a spinnerbait. The spinnerbait with a willow-leaf blade,
    I like to use a silver willow-leaf with a copper, small Colorado blade in the front. It mimics the flash of a baitfish. I just use a simple white skirt or maybe a
    white and chartreuse skirt, and that’s it, half ounce. The reason that’s a little bit larger baits,
    because I can move it quickly and it won’t lay over on its side. So use a half ounce bait, and just throw it. You can throw it just under the surface, where
    the fish, maybe they were chasing a buzz bait, and you can throw that spinnerbait in those
    same areas, but just under the surface and you can connect with a lot of those fish that
    weren’t willing to commit. You can also slow it down and work the water
    column a little bit more, a little bit deeper, little bit more on the outside weed lines,
    up in the bays and coves. I like to fish, speaking of those coves, I
    like to fish coves that have freshwater moving into them because the baitfish are looking
    for that oxygen rich water, and that freshwater brigs in that oxygen water. If there’s a cove in there that doesn’t have
    any flowing water moving into it, then I’ll just skip it, and move to the next one, because
    that’s where I’m going to find most of those baitfish and those active fish. So I covered a lot with those topwater, with
    the buzz baits and with the spinnerbaits, I cover a lot of water that way. The next bait that I like to use is a Rat-L-Trap
    or a Booyah One Knocker, something like this, a chrome color bait. This does two things. First of all, I can cover big flats, big expansive
    areas quickly with it. If you’re getting the theme here, we’re covering
    a lot of water quickly trying to find a school of fish. And I can bounce this off of logs, and off
    of stumps, and I can burn it over the top of weed beds, calling up fish that are buried
    up in it, quite effectively. If at any time, I get bit with these baits,
    that’s when I slow down and start to cover the area a little bit more thoroughly with
    these baits, because these fish school up. They’re chasing pods of baitfish, so you’re
    gonna get, you know, three to five, anywhere to 20, 25 fish in a school. And if you catch one then there’s likely more
    in that same area, so you wanna slow down and work it more methodically and cover a
    lot of area in that, you know, nearby, and you might catch a lot more fish. But once you catch the fish out of that school,
    pick it up again, pick up the speed, keep moving down the bank and catch more fish. Glenn: Ah-ha. Keri: You’re right, he does not… Oh, he’s got a little fight left in him though. All right you. Can you do an easy release and shake yourself
    off? Oh, no. I got it. Glenn: You got him hooked weird Keri: He did that to himself. He’s hooked really weird. You weren’t going anywhere, but somehow you
    impaled yourself. You slapped at it and it got you. Glenn: Yep. They’re sharp hooks. Keri: They’re gone. Smallmouth don’t mess around. Glenn: This One Knocker’s also really good
    for fishing along the weed lines. As the fall progresses, and this is from,
    you know, late summer, as you’re moving along in the low 50s, the temperatures get in the
    low 50s in the fall, what happens is the weeds start to die off. And when they die off, they consume oxygen. Well like I said before, the baitfish are
    looking for oxygen-rich water, so they’ll move out to the greener strands of weeds that
    are still remaining that’s in deeper water, anywhere from 10 to 25 feet deep. You can use that One Knocker to just parallel
    along those weed lines. It’s a great way to fish at this time of year. You throw it out and let it flutter all the
    way down, and then move it along, lift it back up, and let it flutter back down. Baitfish are starting to die off this time
    of year and that mimics that action that the bass are keen on. So you can catch a lot of fish working at
    that. We also work outside structure the same way
    with that One Knocker, fishing those points, those humps, those ditches, those ledges,
    those rock piles, those type of things that the fish are on. As you move into the fall and closer in to
    the winter, those fish are going to move out of the shallows and start moving out to deeper
    water, and you can target it with the One Knocker, fishing it that way, just letting
    it fall down and lifting it back up, and letting it fall back down, you can catch a lot of
    fish late into the fall, doing it that way. Now, the other bait I like to use, the fourth
    type of bait, is a tight wiggling crankbait. This is one that’s got a narrower bill like
    this. Okay? So it’s got a real tight wiggle to it. This I’ll use towards the later part of the
    fall. The water temperatures gets into about the
    mid-50s or so, and it starts to cool off even more. That tighter wiggle sets off a less action,
    less vibration than a big wide action, lots of movement, type of bait. You don’t want that when it’s cooler. That tighter wiggle is perfect for targeting
    those outside structure, the deeper structure, main lake points, everything I just mentioned. I like to fish it with that and I like to
    position the boat up shallow. And I’ll throw out to deeper water, and I’ll
    slowly crank it up, and let it bounce and wiggle along the steeper point, or along a
    rock hump, but something like that, just bouncing off and triggering those bites deeper into
    the fall. Colors, I just like to use fire tiger. It’s a great color to use for crankbait during
    this time of year. It’s universal, works all throughout the fall. I’ve practically don’t throw any other color
    except for maybe a chrome color when it comes to the one knocker. But with those two types of crankbaits, I
    can do most of my crankbait fishing in the fall. Now, this brings me to my fifth bait. If you notice, all four of these baits are
    aggressive, fast-moving baits because you’re covering a lot of water, and the fish are
    aggressive, and they’ll actively chasing forage. But there are times when you get a big front
    that blows through and as the water’s cooling down, there times where the fish will shut
    off, and there in that neutral than negative feeding mode and they don’t wanna chase down
    something. That’s when I break out my fifth, my little
    secret bait here. This is a sixth-inch finesse worm. Check that out. This is something not a whole lot of people
    fish during the fall, but this is perfect when that bite is off. Keri: Oh, come on. Glenn: There we go. Keri: Got one already. Glenn: Oh boy. Keri: Got a big one already. Glenn: He came all the way out of the water. Don’t go in the weeds. Come on, baby. Come on out. Don’t go in the weeds. Keri: Using finesse worms today. Glenn: Finesse worms. Keri: Finesse worms. Glenn: I don’t think he hooked right. I don’t know what’s going on there. Keri: Yeah, that hooked weird. Glenn: I got it hooked, but boy. If I could get your face, that would be helpful. There we go. He’s got a lot of fight in him. Keri: He’s a little angry. Glenn: Oh boy. He’s got that finesse worm just hanging right
    there. That works. That does the trick. I put an eight-ounce tungsten weight on it. Why? Because look, it’s a real slender profile
    bait, doesn’t have a lot of appendages to it. It doesn’t have that bulk like the other Texas
    rig baits do. So it falls very fast through the water column. So an eighth-ounce weight, it’ll fall nice
    and slow like the other Texas rigs that are using 3/8th ounce or half-ounce weights. If you use too much weight on it, what happens
    is it just goes right through the water column, and all the bites on this come on a fall. And so you’re missing, you’re really not utilizing
    this bait very well if you’re letting it shoot down to the bottom really quick. So I rig it with a tungsten weight, because
    it’s very sensitive, so it transmits every little bump, and tick, and anything that happens
    underwater, you’re gonna feel it, whereas lead kind of absorbs it and it deadens that
    feel. I’m using a bobber stopper because I want
    the weight, I’m using the weight for the action of the worm. And if you can notice, I got it kinked just
    a little bit, not much, but just a bit on a two-watt extra white gap hook. Now the reason I’m doing that is because when
    you rig it this way, when you throw it, it does this nice slow death spiral. Okay? That’s what you want, a nice, easy, slow death
    spiral. That’s exactly what the baitfish are doing
    this time of year in the fall. And if those fish are in a lethargic mood,
    kind of a neutral and negative feeding mode, this will trigger bites. The key with it is, you’re not flipping and
    pitching this, or throwing it in nearby cover. You’ve gotta back away from the cover because
    I don’t like bringing a 20-foot boat right up on top of the fish when they’re in a neutral
    feeding mode. It just gives them another reason not to bite. You can spook them that way. Especially in the fall, as you move along,
    the water starts to clear up, they can see you coming. So I back away from the cover and I make long
    casts with this and let the worm just do its death spiral. So that’s what you want and you’re gonna catch
    a lot of fish when they decide that they’re just gonna shut down for now, and not bite
    a whole lot. This is great when you’re fishing behind people,
    too. When they’re knocking them down on crankbaits,
    and you can’t buy a fish on a crankbait, you can use this when you’re throwing behind them. You back seaters make a note of that, you
    can catch a lot of fish that the guy’s missing with his crankbaits, because this is attracting
    a different kind of fish, one that isn’t as willing to chase down a crankbait and there’s
    a bunch out there, you’re gonna catch a lot more fish this way. So armed with these five baits, you’re gonna
    catch a lot of fish this fall. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    Bass Fishing Questions Answered! Vol. 5 | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Bass Fishing Questions Answered! Vol. 5 | Bass Fishing

    November 28, 2019


    Glenn: He’s got a big head. Hey, folks, Glenn May here at BassResource.com. And today, we’re going to dip into the mailbag
    and answer some questions that our viewers have sent us. And hopefully, one of the questions is yours,
    or it may be one you thought about, and here we are answering it. So hopefully, it will help you too. First question we have today is regarding
    basically your health, and that is, “Hey, Glenn, I have seen anglers out there kissing
    bass before on TV, and my friends do it sometimes. But I want to know, is it really safe to kiss
    a bass?” Well, no. No, it’s not. There’s several reasons behind that. First of all, you wouldn’t take a drink out
    of the lake that you’re fishing or river. Why? Well, because it’s probably got some pollutants
    in it, plus the bacteria in it could make you sick. Seriously, it can give you some intestinal
    issues or stomach issues, stomach cramps, what have you, all the way down to, you know,
    some severe problems that could put you in the hospital. And that’s on the fish, and you could accidentally
    ingest that. In addition, fish have bacteria on them. Part of their makeup, part of the system that
    they have on their slime coat, if you ingest that, it’s a potential that you could have
    some gastronomical issues with you, I mean, intestinal issues and cause other problems,
    and you can get very, very sick. And sometimes this can last for weeks on end. It’s not a simple thing. You know, fishing is supposed to be fun. So, that’s why you will never ever see me
    kiss a fish. Okay, here’s another question from an angler
    who says he fishes a lot of lakes in the summertime that have a lot of timber in it, but he’s
    having trouble catching fish around the bases of the trees and out around the timber areas
    on the bottom during the summertime. So, “Do you have any tips?” Yeah, actually, this may or may not be happening. But in the summertime, a couple of things
    could happen. Number one, you might have a thermocline setting
    up. You can see that on your graph. You’ll see a thick line somewhere above the
    bottom of the lake. Well, underneath that line, oxygen is really
    depleted. And that’s not a very healthy environment
    for the bass, so they’re not going to stay down there. So they might not just be on the bottom because
    of that. In addition, sometimes what happens is if
    the bottom is void of a lot of, you know, weeds or any kind of cover, the big fish may
    move up into the branches of the trees to provide a little more protection, and the
    bass will follow them. So the bass may be higher up in the water
    column up around those branches. And finally, if there’s a lot of wood debris
    on the bottom of the lake, what happens when wood starts to decompose, it actually consumes
    a lot of oxygen. And that same thing I told you that occurred
    with the thermocline can also happen with wood decomposing on the bottom. It just may not have enough oxygen down there
    where the bass will want to hang out in, and plus the baitfish won’t either. So if you’re having difficulty catching fish
    around the bases of these trees, move up vertically in the water column and vertically jig those
    areas, and you might catch some suspended fish up off the bottom. All right, here’s a question we can all relate
    to, but it’s from a beginning angler. And he asked, “Hey, what can you do when the
    fish just aren’t biting? You got any tips?” Yeah. I got quite a few actually. We’ve all been there. It happens to the best of us, but there’s
    several things you can do. First of all, you got to maintain a real positive
    attitude. You’ve got to keep that focus. You have to understand that with every cast
    you make, there’s a potential that you could get bit. Have that confidence and have that belief
    with every cast. The reason being is it’s going to enable you
    to focus more on that cast, and on your accuracy, and on the presentation as it enters the water,
    as well as the presentation on your way back to the boat or back to the shoreline. It’s a focus thing and a concentration thing. If you are not confident in what you’re doing
    and you’re not confident the fish are going to bite, then you’re not going to be paying
    close attention to what you’re doing. You’ll get sloppy, you may miss subtle bites,
    and you may miss out on an opportunity to catch a lot of fish. So maintaining a positive attitude is absolutely
    critical to catching more fish. The next thing you should do is slow down. Sometimes a fish just don’t want to chase
    a fast-moving bait like a spinnerbait, or a crankbait, or maybe your favorite topwater. Don’t try to force it. If they’re not willing to bite it, then slow
    down and move to a slower-moving presentation like a jig, or a worm, or maybe a drop shot,
    or a split shot presentation, and that can often elicit more bites. The other thing you can do is downsize on
    your lures. Go to a three-and-a-half-inch tube jig, or
    maybe a four-inch finesse worm. I know a lot of guys that fish five-inch Senko-type
    worms, and sometimes I’ll move down to a four-inch or even a three-inch, and I’ll start catching
    a whole bunch. Matter-of-fact, I’ll put those on the back
    of a split shot sometimes, and I’ll start catching a lot more fish when I wasn’t getting
    any bites before. So just downsizing your lures and slowing
    down oftentimes, you can get a lot more bites. Now, if you’ve tried all this stuff and you’re
    still not catching fish, don’t despair. One of the key things that I do every time
    I go out fishing is I want to learn something new. I want to have a key takeaway every time I
    get off the water. So even if the fish aren’t biting, take this
    time, this opportunity to learn some stuff. For example, if you’re not familiar with the
    lake very much, go out there and motor around. Go check it out. Go to areas you haven’t been before, seen
    before, and start taking a look at it. If you fish from the shoreline exclusively,
    go drive around the lake. Look for other areas and opportunities where
    you can fish from the shoreline, places you’ve never seen before perhaps. Get an idea of what’s out there. If you’re on a boat, you can also maybe…this
    is the time to learn your electronics, I mean, if you aren’t very familiar with your electronics,
    you don’t feel comfortable with them. One of the things that I used to do, I’d go
    over an area that I knew what was there, and I graph over it. And I’d watch my electronics, and what does
    it look like on that screen versus what’s really below, and I get a better idea of how
    to interpret what I see on the graph. That is really valuable for when you’re fishing
    new areas that you haven’t been on before. Now you have a better idea what’s down there
    because you have a better understanding of how to interpret your graph, for example,
    or start playing with the different settings on your graph and take a look in how that
    changes, what things look like on your graph to what’s below. Also, it’s a good opportunity to learn new
    techniques. Now, again, maybe the fish aren’t biting,
    but say, for example, you don’t feel very comfortable walking the dog with a Zara Spook,
    or maybe you’ve never tried it before. Now is a good time to practice and learn how
    to get that technique down. It does take some practice and timing to figure
    out how to walk a dog with a Zara Spook or walk a dog with a frog, for example, any kind
    of technique like that. Practice it now when the fish aren’t biting,
    so when the fish are biting on that technique, now you’re spending more time catching fish
    versus learning how to actually work the bait. So always figure out some way to at least
    learn something new when you come off the lake, and that way you don’t feel your day
    was wasted and that, “Boy, I just blew it.” You know, you can really come down on yourself
    sometimes if you’re not catching fish. But if you can at least walk off the lake
    going, “Boy, I learned a lot of stuff today, even though I didn’t catch any fish,” that
    will help you with your positive attitude and will help you become a better angler. So I hope that helps. So here’s a question from a viewer in Kansas,
    and he says, “Glenn, why do you use braid?” Well, let me first tell you, I think braid
    is a specialty line, so I don’t use it on all my gear. It’s not a universal line. So you’ll only find it rigged up on some of
    my rigs, but not on all of them. I think fluorocarbon, copolymer, monofilament,
    all have their place, and I use them all for different situations, different techniques
    and types of fishing. Braid is no different in that regard. So for, me when I use braid, I want to really
    exploit what it’s really good for, its characteristics, and that is fishing in weeds and woody cover,
    especially thick, woody cover thick weeds such as, you know, hydrilla, milfoil, or fishing
    in submerged bushes and trees. Braid really shines in those areas. Notice I didn’t say rocks. Braid is not good in rocks. Rocks can fray braid, and I’ve seen it even
    cut braid. Rock is like braid’s kryptonite, so I won’t
    fish it around rocks, but thick weed and woody cover. So that usually translates into flipping,
    and pitching, or throwing frogs, or spinnerbaits, or buzz baits over the top of submerged weeds. Or if the weeds are all matted, then I’m throwing
    frogs and spoons right over the top of it, and pulling it, lure across it. Because when a fish sucks it up, you almost
    always dive right back in those weeds. And the braid is really good at cutting the
    weeds and pulling that bass out rather than getting wrapped up and tangled in it and then
    you’re stuck. The bass could wedge and use that leverage
    to get himself free. So those are the instances where you’ll see
    me using braid. Keri: Oh, I got it. Nice fish too. Man, he’s healthy. He is healthy. Thank you, dude. Thank you. Thank you. Come hither, no, come hither… Got you. You’re not going anywhere. Look at the belly on that guy. Another one. Yaay. Glenn: Now, here’s a question the gentleman
    asked me the other day at the boat ramp. He said, “You know…” We were talking about GPS units. And he said, “You know, today’s GPS units
    and how sophisticated they are, do you really find a need to use marker buoys anymore?” And I said, “Yeah, absolutely. Absolutely I do.” I use them for a couple of different reasons,
    not for the reason we used to back in the day we used to use them to actually mark structure. But now, I don’t do it that way because I
    don’t like to put a buoy right on top of where the fish are, so I won’t do that. But with structure fishing, a lot of times,
    it’s a game of angles, and getting the correct angle is key to getting more bites. So when I do catch a fish off a piece of structure,
    I like to kick a marker buoy right over the side right where the boat is so I know where
    I need to position my boat to keep catching more fish. So a lot of times you’ll see me fishing right
    next to a marker buoy. Why is this guy right on top of it, and he’s
    not vertically jigging? That’s why. I need to position that boat in the right
    position relative to that piece of structuring and stay on that spot. Another reason I use marker buoys is it helps
    me visualize what’s under the water. So say, for example, there is a submerged
    weed line in 15 to 20 feet of water. I might take a marker buoy and drop it on
    one end of the weed line and then move up 30, 40, 50 yards and drop another marker buoy. Then I’ll back off, and I have a visualization
    of where that line is. I have an idea of where that weed line is. And if I can keep my lure right in that strike
    zone the whole time just by looking at those two marker buoys, I have an idea of where
    that weed line is. So, yeah, I never leave without a marker buoy. I have several on my boat, and I use them
    all the time. So here’s a question that was posted to me
    from our Facebook page. He’s a new angler, and he asked me about electronics. He said, “You know, what’s the best way for
    an angler to get the most out of his electronics right out of the box, and then later on down
    the line? What can we do to get the most out of it?” I really like this question because we invest
    a lot of money in these electronics. Man, it’s expensive. And so it behooves you to get the most out
    of it. Granted they work great right out of the box. You turn them on, and you can go. And they show you a lot. And they’re really accurate, and they’re great
    to use. But if that’s all you do with it, you’re not
    getting your money’s worth. So, several things I do. First of all, by the time that unit leaves
    the factory in the box, from that time on to when you open it, maybe months later, especially
    with new units, a lot of software updates occur. Now, these software updates either contain
    bug fixes or sometimes new features and functions. So the first thing I do when I get a new GPS
    unit, I update the software always. I go to the manufacturer’s site, look for
    an update, and I update it. And I do that regularly. Put it on your calendar, check it every few
    months, and make sure you keep it updated. The other thing I like to do is…this is
    more for the longer run stuff. But once you get used to using it, then take
    it off auto and start to learn the different functionalities and features and how to change
    the settings on it to get different views and also to adjust it with different types
    of conditions that you’re fishing under. Starting with the gain and the sensitivity,
    just start with those two things, and look how it changes your screen. In different situations, it can really add
    clarity to your screen. You can see a lot more. And then from there, start learning all the
    other different buttons and knobs on it that you can press and different settings you can
    do. There’s lots of tutorials out there on your
    unit. You can learn a lot about it. You don’t have to learn it all. You’re going to have it for a long time, so
    don’t feel like you have to, you know, take a university course and learn it all in a
    couple of weeks. Take your time, look at what you feel comfortable,
    learn some things, go out in the water until you feel comfortable using that new knowledge,
    and then go back and learn some more. The other thing about the electronics to get
    the most out of them is you got to take care of them. Now, I know they’re built for the outdoors,
    they’re built for rain and all kinds of weather, and a lot of vibration that occurs on the
    boat when you’re running down a lake, but at the end of the day, they’re still electronics. So what I do is I keep them clean, and part
    of that means when I’m on the boat and I’m putting on sunscreen or insect repellant,
    I make sure I’m downwind from the electronics because if it lands on electronics, it potentially
    could damage the screen, maybe permanently, or even the cover. So I do that, plus I keep it clean. And when I’m traveling between the launch
    and home, I take electronics off, and I put them in the cab on the truck. A lot of times, the ride on the land, on the
    highway is a lot rougher than any ride you’ll have out on the lake, and I just don’t want
    to subject my electronics to all that vibration all the time. So I just take them off, and I put them in
    the cab on the truck for the ride to and from the lake. Just a couple of things you can do to get
    more out of it, to make them last longer, and to really get the most you can out of
    your investment. Well, that’s all the questions we have for
    today, but we’re going to do a whole bunch more. So if you have any questions, hey, email me
    right here, and I’ll try to get to them as much as possible. Hope that helps. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    Trick Worm Tips for Bass Fishing Never Revealed – Until Now!
    Articles, Blog

    Trick Worm Tips for Bass Fishing Never Revealed – Until Now!

    November 20, 2019


    Glenn: We have a customer. There we go. Oh, you’re gonna want to go over on this side,
    okay? There we go. That floating worm is right in his face. Look at that right there. And he took that. You don’t think these guys want it? I just… It’s literally the very next cast. And that hook is in there. Wow. There we go. A little buck. Oh, hey. All right, let’s let this boy go. Off you go. Hey, folks, Glenn May here with BassResource.com,
    and today I want to talk to you about fishing floating worms, and I’m going to show you
    a way to do it that I’ve been doing it for many decades and, honestly, if you look on
    YouTube, I don’t think I’ve seen anybody show you how to do it this way. If they have, I just haven’t seen it. Or if you’re watching this video a few years
    later and you see a lot of videos about how to do it this way, well, this is how they
    learned it. So, first of all, to fish a floating worm
    you can do it any time of the year while the weather is warm. The best time is right immediately after the
    spawn. That’s where I’ve had the most success with
    it. The fish are just a little lethargic, they’re
    still guarding fry. That couple of weeks right after the spawn
    is really the prime time for fishing a floating worm. But it works throughout the entire summer. Even in the spring I’ve done really well with
    that and into the early fall. It’s just triggering the fish, their instinct
    of to hit a bait that’s dying, that’s injured. You’re just preying on that, and they have
    that all the time. So don’t think you’re limited to just a certain
    time of the year. I haven’t had as much luck, obviously, in
    the winter time when the water temps are in the low 40s. But any other time of the year works really
    well. So let me show you what I do here. First of all, let’s talk about equipment and
    how I rig it, and then I’m going to show you how I fish it. First of all, I’m starting here with a baitcasting
    rod. Now, you can use spinning as well. I’m fishing a little bit of cover and stuff
    out here today, so I went a little bit heavier with 15-pound line. A lot of times I fish it with spinning, with
    six-pound line or eight-pound line when I’m fishing in open water, say rocky banks and
    riprap and that sort of thing. You can use whatever you want when it comes
    to that. Just if you fish a little bit heavier cover,
    remember, if that fish buries down inside the weeds, you’re going to have to get them
    out. So using the eight-pound line and six-pound
    line is a little difficult. So that’s why I’m heavying up a little bit
    today, I’m using 15-pound copolymer line. I don’t need to go too crazy here. I don’t really like to use fluorocarbon when
    it comes to this, the worm. Although, it doesn’t float per se, fluorocarbon
    is a little bit heavier line so it will help it sink a little bit faster. And I don’t want it to sink real fast so I’m
    using copolymer line. I don’t use braid because I don’t want to
    spook the fish. A lot of times I am fishing clear water, braid
    just gives it away. It’s a big flare. It looks unnatural to me and I don’t think
    the fish like it. So I don’t use braid for this application. So it’s straight up 15-pound copolymer line. Or if you’re using spinning gear, again, six
    to eight straight up. Now, tied with it… Well, this here is a medium power rod. This is a 6’8″, yeah, 6’8″ medium power rod. If you’re using a spinning outfit, same thing,
    medium power rod fast tip. That’s the sort of thing you want to go…even
    a medium light, you can do that as well if you’re using that real light line. But again 15 pounds, I’m using medium with
    a fast tip on it. The reel, again, reel speed isn’t a big difference
    here because we’re not bringing that lure in really fast. So anything with a gear ratio between 6:1
    and 7:5 is fine. Don’t rush out and buy another baitcasting
    reel. If you don’t have that speed, you can use
    an 8 or 9:1, I’m just saying. If you are looking to buy a new baitcasting
    reel for this particular application, you don’t need to spend the extra money on high-speed
    reels. Talked about the line, the reel. Now let’s talk about the set up a little bit. This is interesting. I want you guys to see this. What I’ve done here is I’ve got a leader on
    here, about a one-foot leader, and I’ve got a little swivel. This is a number seven swivel right here. Now, this line is exactly the same line here. This leader here is exactly the same one as
    I have here. The reason why I’m putting the swivel here
    is it helps enable that lure to twist and spin and move around without twisting my line. This is especially necessary if you’re using
    spinning gear. Line twist is a problem with spinning gear. Putting this little swivel on here will prevent
    that, all right? But even with bait casting, it still allows
    this bait to spin and move around freely, and that’s what I really like. So a good quality, like a number seven bearing
    swivel is what you want. I’m using a 2/0 offset shank worm hook. That’s real important in this instance. Usually, I use an extra wide gap, but in this
    instance, you can see the hook point is higher than the eye of the hook. That’s important, and I’ll show you why in
    a minute when we rig it. I’m just tying with it, tying to it using
    the uni knot. I’ve been using the uni knot for over 30 years,
    never had it fail. I’m real comfortable with the uni knot and
    tying it, so that’s what I’ve been using. A lot of you guys like to use polymer knots
    or San Diego jam knots. Those are equally effective as well. If you’re used to tying those knots, feel
    comfortable with those knots, go ahead and use them. All three of them are pretty much equal. There we go. It’s a strong fish. Okay, I got him. Loving worm. Boy, he ate it too. He certainly took that. It’s the only way he can get that out. There we go. Good fish. Thank you. All right, so to rig it. Well, let me tell you about the bait here. First of all, I take it right out of the package
    and I store it in a little baggie like this. If you notice, the baggie is not quite as
    long as the bait, and there’s a reason for that. When I store it in my tackle box, you can
    see it’s not straight. I don’t want it to store straight. And over time it’s actually going to mold
    and hold on to that. It’s going to have weird kinks and angles
    in these things. They are not going to be totally straight
    all the time. So I happened to pull one out that is straight. The tail is a little kinked on that one. But a lot of times you’ll get some weird kinks
    in these things. Yeah, that was a little kinked a little bit
    towards the tail as you can see, which is what you want. You want these little kinks and bends in them,
    and the reason being is that it’s going to enable it as it goes through the water to
    be really erratic. It’s going to deep and dart and spin and do
    all kinds of weird things. So that’s the first thing I do, is I distort
    kind of an awkward position so it gets some weird kinks into it. Now, to rig it, this is an important thing. Let me show you. Let me pull this up here for you. I’m going to get right up here so you can
    see what I’m doing. Now, the first thing you want to do is look
    at where the flat side is. That’s where you want the hook point to be
    resting when you’re done. So you start off by putting the hook point
    in this way. Now a lot of people put the hook point right
    in the center. Don’t put it right in the center. What you want to do is put it underneath right
    about here, okay. That’s important, it gives a little upturn
    on the bait. So put it right about there, then you go in,
    straight down the middle just like so. Now a lot of people right about here, that’s
    where they bring the hook point down, the traditional Texas rigging. Don’t do that with this. You want to give it another inch or so, about
    an inch and a half. It’s like bringing down the hook about that
    much, about the whole bend of it, now bring it out. Now, flip it around, just like so, and I’m
    going to bring it through. This takes a little bit of work but working
    on through. Come on, there. Now flip it around. Now, look at this. Look at what you got here. Okay? We’ve got about an inch or so. Look at that. Now, what that does is it enables this worm
    to get a lot of erratic action. The line is coming out right towards the bottom
    like that, see that. Not through the center, and you’ve got this
    extra amount of worm here that’s going to give it some more irregular action. Now, before I bring it in, now you can see
    why I want the hook point up here because it’s going to give it a little kink when I
    put it on here. I’ll show you that in a second. But before I do that, what I like to do is
    I’ll get a spool of 40-pound real cheap mono at my local tackle store. I like that because it’s really wiry. I use that to peg the hook in place. So I’ll take the line and I’ll peg it right
    through the eye of the hook. Right through the eye of the hook, just like
    this. Boom. There we go, okay. Then I’ll cut that off. So what that does is it holds that hook right
    in place. It’s not going to slide down, move around. It’s right in there. So now that hook isn’t going anywhere, okay? See that? I’m pulling on it, it’s not sliding down. So it holds it in place. And now, finally, what you want to do is just
    bring it right on through, just like so, and now we Tex-pose it. Now look at this. Doesn’t this look funky? That’s what you want. You want this lure to be kind of kinked up
    and looking kind of weird. What that’s going to do is it’s going to give
    a lot of action on the water. It’s going to make it spin and twirl and flutter
    and do all kinds of weird stuff. It’s going to look like an injured baitfish. Going back to this swivel, that’s why you
    want it. This is going to give it a lot of action. Now, I’ll rig it a little bit differently
    and maybe even use an extra wide gap hook if I don’t want that much action to it. But, typically, this is how I start off. Especially in the warmer months, fish really
    want that action. All right, guys? So that’s the equipment, that’s the line,
    that’s how I rig it, that’s what I do with the bait. I know you haven’t seen it done this way before,
    but trust me it really works because we’re going to go out fishing and I’ll show you
    how it works. There we go. Whoa. I just about got him right off the boat. He’s small, and he’s not very big. Keri: He’s not very big, but he’ll do. Gawd Glenn! Glenn: Yeah, welcome aboard, buddy. Keri: There you go. Glenn: Yeah, I’m trying to hold down. There you go, even little guys like the floating
    worm. Oh, boy. He just hit it like a missile. That’s why I set the hook, I saw him coming
    after it. I was primed, I was coiled and ready, so… Keri: You yanked him right out the window. Glenn: Here you go little buddy, I’ll let
    you go. All right, so the first thing about casting
    this is because it’s on a longer leader, your cast, don’t cast it really hard. Do a nice easy lob cast. Especially when you’re using bait casters,
    you’ll avoid those nasty backlashes. So make a nice easy cast and then I’m going
    to show you the first retrieve which is essentially you just want it to sink a little bit below
    the surface, give it one hard twitch with some slack after you twitch it, and let it
    rest, let it sink a little bit. Then give it another twitch and let it sit
    and relax. So we just throw it out there, let it sit,
    let it fall a bit on slack line, reel it up and just give it a good twitch. And let it sit, let it fall and give it another
    twitch. And make sure you have that slack in there
    when you do it, because the slack is what gives it that action. If you hold it real tight, it’s not going
    to have that much action. Every once in a while give it a little pop-pop
    and let it fall again. What I’ve got here is some emergent and submerged
    weeds. This is perfect for throwing a floating worm
    because it’ll go right… Like we have some milfoil here that’s just
    under the surface, and some, as you can see, a bit of weeds above the surface. It just falls right between all that and you
    want to just give it these little power twitches. And I mean power twitch. You want to twitch it pretty good, you want
    to give it that action. If you don’t give it a hard twitch, it’s not
    going to give a whole lot of action. That’s what I start off with. I’m going after the aggressive bites. So I start off with that hard twitch, let
    it rest a little bit and then just give it another twitch or a couple twitches and let
    it pause. It’s very similar to fishing a jerk bait,
    if you’ve ever fished jerk baits. This is very similar to that. It’s just here it’s sinking down a little
    bit right between those weeds. This is perfect, especially in an area that
    you wouldn’t normally fish a jerk bait, but because of all the weeds you get tangled up
    in it. It’s a good place to fish trick worm like
    this. Now, another way to fish it, if the fish are
    really aggressive, is I’ll throw it out there and as soon as it hits the water, I just give
    it a twitch, twitch, twitch, and I’m constantly…if you notice, I’m popping it, just like you
    would a jerk bait and giving slack between those jerks. And when you do that, boy, this bait really
    comes alive. It starts dancing, shimming, going side to
    side, it twists and turns. That ball bearing is going to work for you
    right there. And that really works really well when those
    fish are aggressive. It will elicit those bites, just twitching
    and keep it coming at you and just make sure you give it that slack in between each little
    jerk. And you’ll be surprised how much this thing
    just dances when it comes back. The last one is I like to let it fall down. If they’re not as aggressive, I’ll throw it
    out there and let it sink down, almost like you would if you’re fishing a soft plastic
    stick bait. Let it sink down and it falls real nice and
    slow, and then just give it a little pause or two and let it pop back up through the
    weeds and let it slip back through in another pot. This works really well in rock areas as well,
    real clear water. This is a visual bait. It doesn’t put off a whole lot of vibration. So in muddy water, it doesn’t work as well. The fish have to see it in order to hone in
    on it. But that’s how you work it through, just like
    that. I let it sink a little bit too deep there,
    it got hung up on a weed for a second. But that’s good, it popped it free. Sometimes the fish will nail it right when
    it pops out of those weeds. Just let it sink down in those little holes
    and those pockets and hold on because you never know. What you want to do is watch for that strike. Because you’re fishing on slack line, watch
    the line. A lot of times that line will just do a little
    pop and you didn’t do that, or the line will start to swim off in one direction. Well, you didn’t do that. When it starts to do something that you didn’t
    do, probably something on the other end did, so you want to set that hook. Keri: There we go, another one. Glenn: All righty. Come here. Keri: Nice one. Glenn: That will work. Keri: Nice one. There we are. Glenn: There, we’ve got a floating worm right
    in his face. That will do the trick. We’ve got the power poles. It’s a good fish, it’s fun. He can go back right where he came from. I hope those tips help. I hope it helps you catch a lot more fish
    on a worm like this. For more tips and tricks like this and for
    the answers to all your questions about bass fishing, visit BassResource.com. [00:17:06]
    [music] [00:17:41]

    Bass Fishing Questions Answered! Vol. 4 | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Bass Fishing Questions Answered! Vol. 4 | Bass Fishing

    November 20, 2019


    Glenn: Boy, he came out and smashed it hard! Come here, you. Got you on my jig, buddy. That’s the good one. Got a face full of jig right there. Good-looking fish. He wanted it. Boy, he wanted it. That works. Well, I’ll let you go, little buddy. Here we go. Hey folks, Glenn May here with BassResource.com. And we get a lot of questions. It could be on our forums, or on our YouTube
    channel. It could be on our social media channels. We get a lot of questions. People email us, etc. And so what I’ve done here is looked at a
    whole bunch of questions that we’ve received over the past several months, and I’ve collected
    several of them. And I’m going to answer them today in today’s
    show. Hopefully, they’re similar or same questions
    you’ve had and that can help you with your fishing as well, starting with this one. “Why are the fish I catch in murky, muddy
    water so white and pale in color?” So this has a lot to do with how much light
    is available under the water. Bass, they’re kind of like chameleons. They have pigmentation in their skin that
    allows them to kind of change their color a little bit. They’re not like a chameleon that can, like,
    change their color in a heartbeat, you know, really quick, but over time, bass living in
    their environment, they adapt to try to match more of what’s available in the environment. So for example, in muddy water with a light
    penetration and isn’t very deep, a lot of the colors are muted, and the contrast is
    muted. So it’s more of a unicolor. And if you had really bright, brilliant colors,
    you’d absolutely stand out. So it makes it difficult for a bass to conceal
    themselves because they rely on ambushing their prey. So their coloration will be a lot more pale. It won’t be as vibrant. It will be a little bit lighter in color so
    they can blend into their environment better when they’re feeding. Conversely, if you’re looking at really clear
    water, say 8 to 10 feet or more in a bright sunny day, a lot of those fish if you’ve noticed
    when you catch, they’re really brilliant. Their coloring, the markings are just distinct. The lateral lines are really dark compared
    to the rest of their body. Those bass, if you look underwater, you’ll
    see everything’s a lot more…the contrast is there, it’s a lot more distinct, the colors
    are more brilliant, it’s a lot more vibrant underwater, and so those bass, that light
    color, they would really stand out even if they’re in the vegetation. They could be this bright white color if you
    will, compared to everything else. So they can darken their colors and get more
    contrast with their body, and they can blend in more with that vegetation. So it’s all about light penetration. If you see a light colored bass, you know
    it came out of lighter water or muddier water, or sorry, should I say darker water and muddier
    water, or if it’s really vibrant in color, colorful, you know that it came out of water
    that had a lot of clarity to it and in bright, sunny conditions. Okay, “Glenn, I’ve heard you talk a lot about
    rhythm when you’re topwater fishing. Can you explain a little bit more about what
    that is?” Okay, well, rhythm is really the combination
    of… Typically when you’re fishing poppers, or
    chuggers, or any kind of topwater lure that goes across the surface where you can pause
    it and then chug it some more and pause it, rhythm is the cadence that you’re using. It has to do with say for example, on a Pop-R,
    you would go, you know, pop, pop, pause, pop, pop, pause, pop, pop, pop, pause. It’s that cadence. That’s what the rhythm is. And also it has to do with how hard those
    pops are. If it’s really windy out, or if you have kind
    of dark conditions, cloudy, early morning, for example, then your pops may be harder,
    you know, pop, pop, pop, and then the pauses may be longer in between, for example. And if the water is really clear, then it’s
    going to…or there’s not as much wind out, you got a slick surface, then your pops are
    going to be a lot more subtle. They’re not going to be as distinct. And you may have shorter pauses in between
    because you want to give that bass less time to examine it under those clear conditions. So that’s what the rhythm is, is your cadence,
    if you will, while using the topwater. Aha. Keri: You’re right. He does not… Oh, he’s got a little fight left in him, huh? All right, you. Can you do an easy release with a jig and
    shake it off? Oh no, I got it. Glenn: You got to put that in a weird spot. Keri: He did that to himself. Yeah, it’s really weird. You weren’t going anywhere. Somehow you’ve impaled yourself. You slapped at it and it got you. Glenn: Yeah, they’re sharp hooks. Keri: They’re gone. Smallmouth don’t mess around. Glenn: Okay, here’s a great question about
    fishing during the winter months. “Hey, Glenn, you got any tips for fishing
    when the water temperatures are really cold, say in the upper 30s all the way up to the
    upper 40s?” Yeah, winter fishing can be tough, relatively
    speaking. See, in colder temperatures, the fish’s metabolism
    is governed by water temperatures. So the colder the temperature it is, the less
    often they feed. Bass in cold water will feed maybe once every
    seven days, whereas fish in the peak of the summertime are eating several times a day. So during the wintertime, there’s going to
    be just by virtue of that less bass that are willing to bite lures. So your bite is going to be less frequent. And you’re not going to catch as many bass
    as you would in the summertime. A lot of people lead us to believe that the
    bass are really lethargic and slow-moving. No, they’re just as capable of moving as fast
    as they did in the summertime. But a lot of it is the baits that are moving. The forage that they’re feeding on is slow-moving. And so what you need to do is you’re fishing
    relatively slow because that mimics what the bait fish and what they forage, say sculpin,
    for example, they move very slowly on the bottom. Those are the things the bass are targeting. So you’re mimicking that rather than, you
    know, you need to fish slow because the bass moves slow. I just don’t buy into that theory. A matter of fact, I’ve actually caught bass
    with crankbaits in colder temperatures, in 40 degree temperature and on spinnerbaits. I’ve actually caught fish on topwater in 42-degree
    temperature. But those are exceptions to the rule. As a general rule, you need to fish slower,
    you need to be more methodical, and you need to really pay close attention. Your concentration needs to be at the highest
    it is during any day of the time of the year because those bites are going to be subtle
    because it’s a slow moving bait. They’re not going to come and annihilate it. They don’t need to. They’ll just pick it up and just swim off
    with it. So stay focused, understand you’re not going
    to catch as many fish, and by all means, wear warm gear to keep you warm in these coldest
    temperatures, and that will enable you to stay focused throughout the day. So here’s a great question about summertime
    fishing, “Glenn, how important is it to find oxygen-rich water during the summer when the
    water temperatures are really warm?” Okay, so reading between the lines, oxygen…or
    water, once it starts to get into the 80-degree temperature mark and especially soaring into
    the 90s, it begins to lose its ability to hold dissolved oxygen. And the less oxygen that water holds, the
    less appealing that is to baitfish and bass. So, yeah, finding oxygen-rich water is really
    important because you’re apt to find more bass and more baitfish and the action will
    be, you know, greater than in those areas that don’t have it. So typically, deeper water during the summertime
    holds more oxygen. There’s always exceptions to the rules though. Don’t assume because the water temperature’s
    really warm, all the bass are going to be deep. There’s variables that can change that. For example, if you have a lot of vegetation,
    that vegetation produces oxygen, and so the water may have more oxygen there than say,
    when there’s no vegetation. Or, you know, say for example, it’s hydrilla
    or milfoil that taps out on the surface and actually produce shade underneath, then the
    water underneath that shade, that canopy can be cooler, maybe five degrees cooler, and
    so it can hold more oxygen then and it’ll be cooler than what your temperature gauge
    reads on your trolling motor, so it can hold more oxygen plus there’s vegetation. So that adds to the oxygen. Also, wind can create a lot of oxygen. You get wind up on the shallows, and it’s
    churning up the water, that will oxygenate the water as well. And finally, I’ve been in situations where
    I’ve seen the thermocline has been really shallow. Typically, we think of a thermocline as being
    deep, and anything below a thermocline really has…the water doesn’t have a whole lot of
    oxygen at all. So you need to fish above the thermocline. Well, I’ve seen some lakes at times where
    the thermocline is less than 10 feet deep. Honestly, that can happen. And so the fish aren’t going to stay down
    below 10 feet deep for very long in that situation. They’re going to be up shallow. Even though the water temperature maybe in
    the 90s and the oxygen level won’t be as ideal, it’s a lot better than you know the alternative
    where they can’t survive under a thermocline. So just understand, as a general rule, the
    warmer the water temperature, yeah, you’ll find fish deeper, all things being equal,
    but there’s a lot of variables to pay attention to where they may be shallow even though the
    water temperature is really warm. Keri: Hang on. Hang on. Glenn: I’m not gonna say anything. There you go. Keri: That’s a nice one too. Oh, my God, it’s strong. Glenn: That’s a good fish. Keri: A strong one out there. Come on. I’m gonna catch my bass. Glenn: That’s a really good one. Keri: Come here. Come here. Oh, my God, you’re big. Glenn: Good one. Keri: He was hungry. Now, I’ll let you go if you’d be nice. Glenn: Here’s a question about glasses, “Glenn,
    can you talk about the importance of fishing polarized glasses? I hear everybody talking about fishing while
    wearing polarized glasses. Like, what does that mean?” Well, polarized glasses really enabled you
    to see in the water better. The reason is that, and especially cloudy
    days, but even sunny days, you get this reflection off the water, and all you see with regular
    glasses or with your bare eyes, just your vision is just this reflection of the clouds
    in the sky and the sunlight bouncing off the water. It doesn’t enable you to look in the water. You put polarized glasses on and what they
    do is they eliminate a lot of that reflection so you can see into the water, help you find
    stumps, rocks, dock pilings, vegetation edges. You can even see fish. It enables you to fish a lot better because
    now you know what you’re fishing. You can see what’s beneath the water, and
    it helps you with your casting accuracy and a whole bunch of other things. So polarized glasses are extremely important
    to have while you’re fishing. Here’s a good one about smallmouth fishing,
    “Where do you suggest I go to catch trophy smallmouth bass? At what time of year should I go, and what
    type of lures would you suggest I use?” Well, these are really good questions, and
    there’s a lot of arguments because people have their favorites. But what I would look for are areas that have
    really good, pristine quality water with a lot of forage available and cover. So what comes top of mind to me are, like,
    the Great Lakes areas, for example, Lake Erie. I’d also look at some of the areas in the
    Midwest, for example, say Tennessee has a lot of really good…you know, Dale Hollow
    and, you know, and the Tennessee River chain kind of come to mind that has some really
    good smallmouth. Other areas I would look at are out west,
    say the Columbia River. And in Oregon, there’s some great smaller
    rivers that have really good, clean water that produce big fish. But the best time to fish for these big fish
    and you have your chances of catching the biggest one I believe is during the spring,
    early spring. When these fish are at their fattest, they’re
    ready to spawn, they still have eggs in them, they’re going to be at the biggest they are
    throughout the entire year. So early spring is a time I would target. And I would focus on those areas that are
    in the pre-spawn areas, for example, drops points, and secondary points that are near
    the entrances to coves and bays, any type of creek channel that goes up into an inside
    of a bay that may have a rock pile on it or some kind of ledge, ditch. Those type of things, you know, leading into
    spawning bays and spawning areas, that’s the areas I would target. And I would fish probably like a jig or jig
    and pig, maybe a finesse jig. I’d also use tubes. Tubes baits to me are some of the most productive
    baits for big smallmouth. Just day in and day out, year in, year out
    they produce quality smallmouth bass. So that’s what I would do if I were to look
    for trophy smallmouth bass. Well, I hope you found those questions interesting
    and helpful. If you have any questions for me, please,
    fire them at me at this email down below, or you can always shoot me a question on Facebook. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    Bass Fishing Questions Answered! Vol. 3 | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Bass Fishing Questions Answered! Vol. 3 | Bass Fishing

    November 16, 2019


    Keri: Oh nice. Oh, you got the camera. All righty then. Glenn: eh, not sure if that’s a bass or
    not. Keri: Uh oh. Glenn: Oh, it is a bass. Keri: It’s a bass. Glenn: Come here, sweety. Keri: He swam the other way. Saw the net and went under the boat. Glenn: That’s a good fish. Keri: That’s a nice fish. Glenn May: Hey folks. Glenn May here, at BassResource.com, and today
    I’m gonna dive into our email bag and try to answer some of the questions that you’ve
    sent to me recently, starting with this one. “Glenn, why do you think bass strike at buzzbait?” Well, reading between the lines, I’m gonna
    say “You know what?” It sounds to me like you’re saying, “A buzzbait
    doesn’t look like anything in nature, so why would a bass attack it. It doesn’t look like any food.” Well, the reality is a buzzbait appeals to
    many of the bass’s predatory senses. One of the things that bass do, the best way
    for them to catch their prey is to corner it up against something so it doesn’t have
    an escape route. That might be up against a sea wall, up against
    a point, you know, a rock hump, maybe up against some stumps, something where they can limit
    the escape route of the forage. And in this case, the surface of the water
    is also a barrier, so it helps prevent the baitfish from getting away. So anything skittering across the top is an
    ideal target because it looks very vulnerable to the bass. In addition, a buzzbait creates a lot of commotion
    and vibration and that appeals to both their visual sense as well as their lateral lines
    picking up those vibrations. It helps them find that lure and when they
    see it, it looks like something that’s running across the surface that’s trying to get away
    from them. And to me, bass are a lot like cats. They’ll chase something that’s trying to get
    away from them. That’s why you’re playing with a string, bring
    it across the floor. As the string’s going across in front of them,
    they’re not really gonna attack it, but when you get to the tip and that end of the string
    gets by them, that’s usually when they hit it. Because now it looks like something that’s
    gonna get away from them, so they better react to it or it’s gonna be gone. So I think it appeals to all those different
    senses to bass for that reason and this is why they strike buzzbaits. Here’s another great question: “Fishing, like
    most other things, has exceptions to the general rule. What are a few for fishing? For example, fish don’t typically bite during
    cold front conditions.” So yes, generally speaking, cold front conditions,
    the bite is slow, the bass aren’t as active, they don’t wanna bite as much. But yes, there are exceptions. For example, cold front a lot of times, to
    me, bass are more affected by cold fronts during the colder months. It seems like the colder the water, the more
    affected they are when a front comes through. Whereas in the warmer months, especially in
    the spring, and again in the early fall, when the bass are feeding the most, they don’t
    get as affected by the fronts. I think both of those times a year you’re
    getting more fronts, for example, coming through. That’s one of ’em. The bass kinda become acclimated to it. But also, they’re in feed mode. They got the feed bags on, they’re eating,
    and at that point, they’re really not gonna let anything get in their way, certainly not
    a cold front. So, I don’t think they’re as affected during
    that time you can catch. Actually, at times I’ve caught more fish during
    cold front conditions during those times of the year than in the other times of the year. So, those certainly are some exceptions. But there’s other exceptions in fishing that
    I’ve noted as well, and you probably have too. For example, I’ve caught fish on topwater
    baits on New Year’s Day in 42-degree water, when bass aren’t supposed to be hitting topwater. Typically cold water, winter conditions, bass
    don’t hit topwater lures, but there we go. I caught some fish on ’em ’cause for whatever
    reason, they were busting fish in the surface, and when they’re not supposed to, but that’s
    an exception. Another time is, I’ve caught fish as deep
    as 75 feet deep. I was fishing a tournament in very clear water,
    wasn’t catching too many fish, and so I just kept going deeper and deeper and deeper and
    deeper. I actually caught on a Rooster Tail. Yeah, a lure that typically doesn’t go very
    deep at all. I put together a split shot rig and put a
    Rooster Tail on it and threw it out in the deep water. I had to wait it seemed like 30 minutes for
    it to get to the bottom, but I started catching fish that deep and they were little fish. They were only like 12 and 1/8 of an inch. I think I brought in 5 fish for like 4 pounds,
    but I ended up in the top 5 because everybody else struggled to catch fish at all. Most people blanked. A very unusual situation, but you know, it’s
    an exception. Another exception is during wintertime, I’ve
    actually caught fish on fast-moving crankbaits in really deep water. When fish are supposed to be lethargic and
    not willing to chase down baits, I’ve caught fish on fast-moving baits during the wintertime. So there’s always exceptions and I think the
    reason being is that’s it’s a notion that was instilled in me by my fishing partner
    a long time ago, and that is, “fish don’t read the same books we do.” Sometimes they don’t do what we expect them
    to do because they’re off on another page of a different book that we’ve never read. So, when you’re not catching fish and you’re
    struggling to catch ’em, think outside the box and think about what could they be doing
    that they’re not supposed to be doing and you might stumble upon a pattern that wasn’t
    supposed to be happening that day. Glenn: And it probably was … There we go. All righty. Yeah, little buck bass. We’ll take it. Little jig. They’re fun, they’re fun, I’ll tell ya. Boom. Glenn May: Okay, here’s a question from a
    young angler who doesn’t have a boat, so he fishes from the shoreline. “Glenn, what lures would you choose to fish
    in a pond that doesn’t have a whole lotta cover?” Well really, there’s a couple of things I
    consider when I’m shore fishing. One of ’em is casting distance and the other
    is water clarity and available cover. If the lake doesn’t have a lot of cover and
    the clarity is relatively clear to murky or, eh, let’s say just stained, I would first
    pick like a lipless crankbait because, with a lipless crankbait, you can vary the depth
    at where your fishing. So it adds a lot of versatility to it and
    you can cast those a million miles. Right? You can cast ’em really far, or you can underhand
    cast short. So, you can make a lot of casts to targets
    as well. So it’s a very versatile bait to be fishing
    in those conditions. If the bass aren’t willing to chase down a
    lure in that clear to stained water, then I would fish something like a YUM Dinger,
    you know a soft plastic jerk bait. That’s a type of thing I would be throwing,
    maybe a fluke, something like that, and you know, fish it a lot slower methodically over
    the tops of weeds or near cover or near ambush points such as if there’s a stump or a rock
    or something like that nearby the fish might be hanging out on. If the water is murky, and the visibility
    isn’t all that much, or if it’s got a lot more weeds in it, then I’d pick something
    like a spinnerbait that has Colorado or Indiana blades on it. I like to fish 3/4-ounce spinnerbaits because
    of two things, well, primarily because of speed. I can fish it really fast and I can boil it
    just under the surface where I’m just bulging the water, not breaking the surface, or I
    can fish it a lot slower and slow roll it right near different cover. In addition, because of the weight, I can
    fish throughout the water column. So again, it makes it more versatile. So, those are really the three main lures
    that I’d always have with me when I’m shore fishing in the pond. Here’s a great question. It’s,
    “Can you please explain some of the harmful effects from the sun’s rays?” You know, we talk about a lot of our fishing
    gear and our lures and fishing techniques, but one of the things we don’t talk about
    that much that really needs to be talked about more, and that is the harmful effects from
    the sun. We’re out in the sun every time we go out
    fishing. Whether we’ve got some cloudy cover or it’s
    a bright, sunny day, you’re still affected by those sun’s rays, and it’s a cumulative
    effect. We talk about skin cancer. Well, those of us are out on the water a lot
    longer, and a lot more often, have higher risk of skin cancer. Why? Because over time you have more and more irreparable
    skin damage. It builds upon itself. This is why you don’t too often see somebody
    in their 20s have skin cancer. But that same person who continues fishing
    throughout his lifespan, by the time he gets into his 40s and 50s, now he starts to have
    problems. This is why it’s really important for you
    to cover your skin. Often times you’ll see me, I’m fishing with
    long-sleeve shirts, I’ve got long pants on, I’ve got gloves on, and sometimes I have a
    buff on. And a lot of times when the cameras aren’t
    rolling I’ll wear a buff in addition to wearing sunscreen. I have at least 50 SPF. If I can fish 70 or 100, I’ll do that. I know some researchers say you don’t need
    to go above 50, but hey, if it’s available I’ll use 70 or 100 SPF. I’ll also use polarized glasses. Every time I go fishing because polarized
    glasses also block UVA/UVB rays, and those can be harmful to your eyesight. It can cause irreparable damage to your retina. It can cause premature cataracts. Right? So it can affect your vision. So, I pick glasses that wrap around and don’t
    allow any light to leak in from the sides because I need that full protection from the
    sun’s harmful rays to protect my eyes and my vision. Keri: That time I got him… Hello little largy. Come back here. Come hither. Right on the nose. Right on the nose. I gotcha right on the nose. I got you through the nose, actually. Sorry, I broke your nostril. Stop it. Li’l cutey. Glenn May: Here’s a great question. “Are big baits mandatory to catch big fish?” Well, yeah there is some truth to the big
    bait-big bass theory, but are they mandatory? No. A lot of bass, typically what they’ll do is
    they do bite bigger baits because they offer more calories and protein relative to the
    amount of effort it’s gonna take, or the calories they need to burn to actually catch it. Right? So they learned that the bigger the baits
    are, the more calories they have, and the slower moving the bait is, the less calories
    they need to expend to hunt down and capture that bait needed. So, there is some truth to having big baits. However, I’ve caught plenty of large fish
    on small 3 and 1/2 inch tubes, finesse jigs, and drop shot baits that are, you know, little
    3-inch drop shot baits and finesse worms. Plenty of ’em. Because if you present a lure at the right
    depth with the right speed and right presentation, a fish is gonna hit it. So, typically a slower moving baits at the
    right depth, if a big bass is nearby, they realize they don’t have to expend a lotta
    energy to eat it. They can just swim up and grab it. They will. So small baits can and will catch big bass. All right, here’s an interesting question. “Glenn, do you believe that a $15 lure will
    outfish a $5 lure?” Well, that’s a really good question. You know, I think that we overthink too much
    when it comes to lures. We put way too much thought and effort into
    buying and choosing lures than the bass spends thinking whether or not they’re gonna bite
    it. Expensive lures I think, yeah, they do have
    their attributes that can make them more appealing and thus get more bites. But that said, I really think it’s more about
    the presentation than how much money you spent on a lure. If you picked the right lure for the right
    conditions and fished it at the right depth with the right presentation, it’s gonna get
    bit. Notice I didn’t even say color, ’cause a lotta
    times we spend too much thought on color. It’s getting that bait in the right spot with
    the right presentation that appeals to the bass at that moment. That’s what really triggers a bite. How much you spend on it isn’t as much of
    a factor. That said, confidence has everything to do
    with fishing. If you don’t have confidence in the bait that
    you’re throwing, then you’re not gonna spend as much attention, and your focus isn’t gonna
    be there. Your attention to detail and how well you
    present that lure and your casting accuracy is gonna be impacted by that. So, if a more expensive lure gives you that
    confidence, then that is key in catching more bass. So, fish what you like to fish, what you think
    is gonna work best, and you’re gonna catch a lot more fish. So thanks for sending me in those questions,
    keep ’em comin’ at the email address below and I’ll try to get to ’em. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.