Browsing Tag: fishing lures

    How To Fish Toads For Bass (The Best Ways) | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    How To Fish Toads For Bass (The Best Ways) | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020


    Glenn: Really. Some bushes right here on the end of a flat
    that drop right off. Really, this is like a prime spot, and it
    was! Yes! There we go. Big old fish on a toad, on a toad! There we go. There we go. Come here. Right there. There we go. Oh, I think he wanted that. Look at that boys. Took that right down. That’s what toad fishing can do for you right
    there. All right, buddy. Hey folks. Glenn May here, with BassResource.com, and
    today I want to talk to you about toad fishing. Yeah, fishing solid body, soft plastic toads. These things are a blast to fish, especially
    in the warmer months. I love doing this. So today I want to talk to you a little bit
    about how to rig them up, what kind of gear you should be using, and then how to fish
    it. Let’s first start off with equipment. With toad fishing, you’re going to be throwing
    in a lot of cover, a lot of places where the fish can wrap you up or around objects, be
    it bushes, trees, dock pilings, things like that, so you need some heavy duty gear. I’m using a heavy power, fast action rod. It’s a seven foot three rod. You can use anywhere from say a 7.1 to a 7.8
    rod, up to personal preference. I like rods a little bit on the shorter side
    of things, so I’m going with a 7.3. You need that heavy power and that backbone
    to set the hook and get that fish going towards you. There’s a huge hook you’re going to be using. I’m going to show you. This is a thick 5/0 hook. I’ll show you that in a second, and that’s
    one of the reasons why you need a stout rod to set that hook. I’m using 50 pounds Kanzen braid line from
    Seagaur. The reason why I’m using that is, first of
    all, you’re making long casts with toads. You’re throwing it over big flats, areas of
    vegetation that may be just under the surface, and you’re fan casting to it. And what I mean by fan casting, is basically
    you start casting say about the 10:00 position, make your retrieve, the next cast is going
    to be about the 11:00 position, the next one at 12, 1, so on and so forth, okay? You’re just covering, a very methodical way
    of covering a large expanse of water, but you’re also making long casts to cover as
    much as you can. So when you’re using braided line, when you
    get above that 50 pound mark, it’s kind of hard to cast long distances. It kind of inhibits your distance, so that’s
    why I stick with 50 pound. I don’t get any bigger than that. I specifically use Kanzen line, because toads,
    you know, they’re very buoyant, they stay on the surface, but they do sink. The braided line helps. It’s a little buoyant, and it helps them stay
    on the surface, rather than using say fluorocarbon, which can actually bring the bait down. Fluorocarbon is a little bit more dense and
    has a little more weight to it, so, you know, it doesn’t float as much as braid, so that’s
    why I’m using 50 pound Kanzen braided line. On it, I’m using a reel that…the most important
    thing about the reel is not so much the reel speed, because you’re not bringing the toad
    back at, you know, a mach 50 like you would crank baiting. What you want to focus on is the drag, and
    this is a Kastking Assassin Reel. It’s got 16 and a half pounds of drag. That’s pretty stout. Most production reels these days, when they
    come out, they usually have 11, 12 pounds of drag. This is 16 and a half, so you’re getting up
    in that area where you have a really strong drag system. There are other reels that have that drag
    that strong, even some that have stronger drag than that. I’m not saying this is the only reel, but
    that’s the choice you want to look at when you’re looking for frog fishing, or toad fishing,
    what kind of drag that the reel has. So let’s talk about rigging here. Like I said, you’re using a really stout hook. This is a 5/0, real thick wire hook, and it’s
    keel weighted and also has a screw lock on it, all right? The key thing about the weight, see how far
    down the shank it is? That’s what you want. You don’t want it…there’s some keel weighted
    hooks where I see the weight right up here. All’s that’s going to do is make your toad
    point downward, nose down. It’s going to dig it into the water, and make
    it dive, so you want the weight further back here to where the hook starts the bend. This hook is by Moaner Hooks, but there’s
    a lot of other hooks out there that have that kind of weight to it as well, weight placement,
    and then, of course, you got the screw locks. So let me show you how you rig this. First of all, just with the screw lock, you
    put it right dead center, right in the nose of the frog or the toad here, and you just
    screw it on. I mean it’s that straightforward. Just screw that on just like that. All right. Now it’s on. Now, just like that, the key with fishing
    toads, you want that back to be straight or even have a little bit of a bow to it. That allows it to run true. If you’ve got it bowed like this, what’s going
    to happen is that toad’s going to want to flip over and run upside down, even though
    you’ve got this weight here, it’s going to want to do that. This is a quarter ounce weight. You can go lighter than that. If you don’t use a weight, the most…you’re
    actually going to have problems with the toad spinning, especially if you bow it up like
    that. You’ve got to have a little bit of a bow down
    or perfectly flat. So I just rig it in like you would Texas style. You can see where the hook’s supposed to come
    in. It’s right in the very, very back, so I just
    push it up like that, put that hook right in the very back part of it, and there you
    go. Now I just skin hook it just barely, just
    like so. Nice and straight, see? All right. So that’s how you rig it. Toads don’t come with their own hook, so you’ve
    got to learn how to rig it right, but that’s exactly what you want, nice, straight. See that, night and straight. Perfect, now we’re ready to go toad fishing. There. I had to wait until I felt em. There we go. There we go. There we go. Come here you. Look at that. Not a big guy, but he took it. See, the key with fishing these toads is when
    the fish blows up on it, your natural reaction is to set the hook right away. Instead, you gotta drop the rod, rod tip,
    and feed them slack, and feed it to them, and wait. Reel up some of that slack, wait until you
    feel the weight of the fish, and then pop em, you know. Drop the rod tip just a little bit, throw
    some slack along if you need to. Boom, and pop them in. Look, the hook went all the way through his
    cheek. That’s how you do it guys. The places where I like to fish it. I like to fish it in the areas where the weeds
    are just under the surface, from a few inches to maybe two feet or so under the surface. That’s the perfect place to be throwing a
    toad. These little legs here they create some disturbance
    on the water, and a straight cast and retrieve works really, really well on a lot of toads. This is designed to be fished as slow as possible
    while keeping it on the surface, so, like I said, you don’t need a fast reel for that. You just need to be able to reel it fast enough
    to keep it on the surface and create a little bubbling, gurgling action on the water. Today, we don’t have a lot of disturbance
    on the water. In other words, you don’t have a lot of wind,
    so the slower the better. If there’s a little more wind, you want to
    create a little more disturbance, so speed it up a little bit, and you create a little
    bit more of a gurgling action. The unique characteristic about this Rage
    Toad, let me show you here, are its legs. You’ve got this little ridge right here, right,
    and that enables it, these legs, to move, and you’re barely moving it across the water,
    right? It just doesn’t take a whole lot of movement,
    so you can move it very, very slow and get a disturbance. But if the water is slick calm, and you’re
    not, and it’s just glass smooth, that’s probably, even then, too much disturbance. So what you can do, is just take yourself,
    take a pair of scissors, and cut off the insides of this, right on the inside here, right here,
    just cut off a little bit of that meat right there, and make this leg, this part, thinner,
    and that will create less disturbance on the water. Real subtle action, especially when on those
    slick, calm mornings, just a little bit of gurgling, just keep shaving off a little bit
    of that, and you’ll find you’ll catch a lot, get a lot more bites. Keri: There you go. Good one honey, good one, good one, good one,
    good one, good one. Glenn: Here we go. Keri: Nice fish. Glenn: Here we go. Keri: Nice one. Toad fishing at its finest. Glenn: Come here. There we are. Keri: Nice fish. Glenn: So, the key, remember when you’re fishing
    these toads, is to keep the rod tip up. Keep that rod tip up so you keep that toad
    toward the surface, and that what he did. He hit it right on the top. Another thing to keep in mind is color. A lot of times what I like to do fish a bait
    that’s got a little bit of green pumpkin in it and has a white belly. I think that looks the most natural and what
    most frogs look like, so I start with that. But if I’m not getting bites, or just getting
    blow-ups or follows, then I’ll switch to a darker color, say a black, or I may go with
    a, like a camo type color, something that’s got variations of different color, maybe a
    June Bug even, some kind of a darker color. And if all else fails, I’ll try to find something
    really bright and obnoxious, like a chartreuse colored frog. You’d be surprised just by changing up color,
    how many more bites you’ll get if your just getting follows or blow-ups. A nice little hole right in there isn’t it? Keri: Oh. Nope. Glenn: You’ve got to be kidding me. Keri: I got a weed, but he blew-up on it. Throw in there. He didn’t get it. Glenn: Nope, doesn’t want it. [00:11:43]
    [silence] [00:12:14] Keri: YUM Dinger time. He wanted it and look at that. If they don’t hit the toad the first time,
    follow it up with a YUM Dinger. Glenn: The thing with toads though is they
    don’t work just in the spring. I’m sure you’ve been doing a lot a bit of
    research on this, and a lot of them say fish it in the spring, and then put them away. I don’t know, I’ve been fishing toads. My wife and I have been fishing toads for
    decades now, and we didn’t read any books on it. There wasn’t YouTube out to learn how to fish
    it, so we just went out and started fishing them, and it turns out, we can be pretty successful
    with them any time the water is say about 55, 56 degrees, from the spring all the way
    to the fall, when it starts to cool down and pass that mark again, you can catch fish on
    a toad. So don’t put it away in the spring. That’d be a mistake. Throw it out in those flats where you see,
    you know, Milfoil, Hydrilla, Coontail, anything where it’s just under the surface. Throw it out there, and make a nice, you know,
    easy cast, nice slow retrieve. Sometimes what we like to do is give it a
    little yank with a rod tip, and give it a little gurgle, and then slow it back down
    again, and don’t be afraid to kill it. That little erratic action is often what triggers
    bites. So reel it, reel it, reel it, kill it, and
    then especially if you get it next to a bush, next to a dock piling, next to some kind of
    structure, that’s a great place to kill it, and the fish will come up and smack it. One other thing you need to be real careful
    about is when you’re reeling these back in to the boat, and you’re just about to pull
    it out of the water to make another cast, a lot of times that’s when the fish smack
    it. It scares the bejesus out of you. I mean it’s scared…they come up and just,
    you’re just ready to pull it out of the water, and they come out and bam, smack it. I don’t know why, but that’s happened quite
    a bit with us fishing these toads, so be ready at any time and have a good pacemaker if you
    have those, because it can really stop your heart there for a second, but it’s a real
    exciting way of fishing. Keri: Whoa. Dear Lord. Glenn: Whoa. Holy-Mollie. Keri: Dear Lord. Glenn: Wow. Keri: That was like an instant. Holy crap. Right at the boat. Glenn: Over on this side. Wow. Keri: Right at the boat. Here you go, folks. I hope that was on camera. Glenn: It was. Keri: Because that was right at the boat. He just came up and ate that… Glenn: Toad. Keri: Toad. It just came up and ate that toad. There you go folks, toad fishing. It scared the daylights out of me. Glenn: Anyway, that’s basically the way you
    fish a toad. There’s not a whole lot to it, other than
    just a nice steady retrieve, let it fall. If you’re throwing it over the matted weeds,
    and there’s like a pocket or something like that. You see a hole, let it drop down and tumble
    down in there and see if you can’t get a bite and a lot of times that works. Other than that, have a whole, heck of a lot
    of fun. I hope those tips help. For more tips and tricks, and for more answers
    to all your questions about bass fishing, visit BassResource.com.

    How Do You Get Good At Bass Fishing? | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    How Do You Get Good At Bass Fishing? | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020


    Glenn: I got one more question for you. And this is pretty universal regardless of
    what your skill level you’re at, whether you’re just starting out or say if you’ve been in
    tournaments for a while and you still trying to getting better. And that question is, how do I get better
    at bass fishing? What kind of advice can you give to somebody
    who’s asking that? Ott DeFoe: That to me is really a pretty easy
    one. The single biggest thing is to go fishing
    every opportunity you get, and to always keep an open mind when you are out there fishing. And if you have that crazy thought that says,
    “I’m throwing a worm and I need to tie on buzz bait.” Tie on buzz bait because there’s something
    in your gut, a natural intuitive instinct that told you to try something different. And if it’s wrong, you tried it, you won’t
    regret having tried it. But if you don’t try it, and then you go home
    where you just didn’t catch any fish dragging your worm around, you’re going to go back
    and say, “Well, I really wish I would have tried that buzz bait today.” So always just listen to that gut when you’re
    learning, when you’re trying to become a better angler because you’ll have those times when
    you have a thought, you toss something else on and your very first cast, you catch a bass
    with it. And that’s going to give you confidence to
    always trust your gut and whatever those conditions are telling you to do and whatever knowledge
    you have that you’ve read or you’ve watched or whatever it may be, that once you have
    that thought, that you’ll trust it and more times than not that’s going to help you. Gerald Swindle: To get better at anything
    you have to challenge yourself to learn something new and do something out of your comfort zone. If you’re comfortable fishing a worm and that’s
    all you ever do, that’s good as you’re going to get. Challenge yourself to learn to throw something
    different. Throw a spinner bait. When you feel comfortable with that, go tie
    on a chatterbait, when you get comfortable with that, tie on a square-up crankbait. Every time you get comfortable with something
    and you feel like you’ve kind of got the hang of it, challenge yourself to learn one more
    technique, and one more technique, because the more you learn, the more you catch. Glenn: The more variety more… Don’t be a one trick pony is what i’m hearing. Gerald Swindle: Right. You want to have several tricks in your hat
    and you wanna be able to use them. And then, once you get perfected of those
    techniques, you will learn that when you see those situations occur on the water, you say,
    “This is the perfect situation for crankbait,” tie it on you’ll be successful. Kevin VanDam:Well, today there are so many
    resources available. I mean, since the advent of the internet and
    YouTube channels, things like that, you can literally research and find out about all
    these new lures and techniques and how to fish them. You know, I’ve done tons of videos on,, you
    know how to fish different baits or things like that, or different scenarios, how to
    use your electronics and all that. The bottom line is, is there’s a ton of information
    out there, and that’s great, but you still have to go out and apply it. So there’s just no substitute for time on
    the water. You can be an armchair expert, you can learn
    all about how to fish a drop shot or whatever, but until you actually go out and do it, you’re
    not going to be an expert at it. And that’s what it takes, you got to go out,
    if you want to learn something new, to go out and focus on that technique or that bait
    and don’t do anything else. That’s the best way to learn something new,
    it’s just just going out there and focus on it. Brandon Palaniuk: The number one thing that
    never changes is time on the water. No matter your skill level, where you’re at
    in the country, how old you are, there’s no substitute for time on the water. And you can’t’ only go on the days that are
    nice. Like, you can’t only go on sunny days, you
    can’t be a fair weather fisherman. Because if you do that, then you’re only training
    yourself to catch fish under those conditions. And so for like us as tournament anglers,
    we don’t get to pick the weather that we fish under, right? We just get to pick the dates that we fish
    and whatever mother nature throws at us for whether we have to adapt to. And so I always encourage people to go fish
    on the nastiest days. If you have an off day and you have the chance
    to go fishing, go do that. Because what happens is, the more experience
    and more time you have on the water, the faster that light bulb goes off. And so when you see those conditions again,
    and you see those variables, it’s just like a math question. You’re adding this and you’re subtracting
    this and eventually, you have this equation to say, “This is what I need to do. This is what I need to throw, this is where
    I need to go.” And you can only get that by time on the water,
    because everyone’s going to have their own little personal twist. So if you want to get better, no matter what
    skill level you are, you just need to spend time on the water. Even if it’s on the bank, it doesn’t have
    to even be in a boat, you just need to spend time on the water fishing. Edwin Evers: My advice would be to fish with
    as many different people as you can. No matter how good or bad you think somebody
    may be, you can learn something of everybody. If I went fishing with you tomorrow, Glen,
    I’m going to learn something of you, you’re going to learn something of me. And it may be, you may learn from me, “Hey,
    I sure don’t want to do it that way, the way Ed was doing it,” but you’re still learning
    something. The more people you can fish with, the more
    things you can learn, you know. Sign up in a club or something like that where
    you can fish with multiple people. The more time you can spend on the water,
    obviously, you’re going to get much better. When it all comes down to it, it’s just bass
    fishing. So many times we try to make it so complicated,
    and it’s really not. Glenn: Always be learning about something
    new. Edwin Evers: Always. Always, always. If you’re if I’m talking to a tournament angler
    here that’s maybe good with this technique or that technique, for me, I was really bad
    at jerkbait fishing at one point in my career, I was really bad with a spinning rod, I wouldn’t
    even carry one. So I really worked at honing my skills with
    those baits, and that’s all I’d fish with. At one point, my career I was horrible in
    Florida. I’m still not very good in Florida, but I
    spent a lot of winters down there trying to learn it back in my single days to become
    better in Florida. So you can take it as far as you want to,
    but make yourself get better at those things, you know, offshore fishing. One of the things I always tell anybody is
    just drop your jig over the side of your boat below the trolling motor. Look at the size of your jig on your Lowrance,
    then that’ll really tell you what size of everything else you need to look for. If you’re struggling with offshore fishing,
    get it all, get the rest of everything else out of the boat. Get that shallow spinner bait, that shallow
    square bill, put your Carolina rig or football jig, deep diving crankbait in your boat to
    where you don’t have anything to fall back on, you know, after you’ve been out there
    for two hours and you hadn’t had a bite. But, you know, I’ve always said with that
    offshore fishing, and we’re kind of going off on a tangent here, but I’ll find them
    with my electronics before I ever make a cast. I mean, you will see me go to an offshore
    event and I will be behind the wheel of that NITRO 12 hours of the day, you know, because
    I have that much confidence in my electronics, and when I see them on my electronics, that’s
    when I’ll turn around and fish. So many people fish all the way around a point,
    which may take an hour. I’m going to idle that entire point, waypoint
    to a couple of groups I see here, a couple of fish I see, then turn around and go catch
    those fish. Keith Poche: There’s really only one answer
    and a lot of people may not want to hear this answer, but I had to live it. I had to go through a nasty experience. It’s just time on the water. It’s just, you know, research as much as you
    can research and put in the time. You can’t take away from time on the water. Time on the water and experience situations
    and patterns will definitely grow your knowledge efficient and how to catch them, what not
    to look for, what to look for. It’s like any other sport, with basketball,
    football. I mean, we went to practice every day during
    the week. We lifted weights, I mean, you don’t just
    show up and are naturally good. There’s techniques, there’s things you have
    to do, and the only way to do that is to practice. And that’s what it takes to go out. If it’s just learning how to skip underneath
    a dock, or how to throw a crankbait or whatever, throw a, you know, a walking topwater bait,
    going out there and actually doing it and doing it and doing it until you get good at
    it, that is 100% the only way you’re going to get better. Chris Zaldain: How do you get better at any
    other sport? Honestly, you practice. You practice, practice, practice. And man, I remember growing up in high school
    after sixth period, I’d go out in my little float tube and just work on fishing. And actually, to get to more specific, I remember
    growing up swim day fishing, I would go out in my kick boat float tube and only bring
    one rod, one reel, one lure, and you were absolutely forced to work on that particular
    technique. So how do you get better at a particular technique
    or how do you get better at bass fishing in general? Is go out there with one rod, limit yourself
    to one rod, you’re forced to learn that specific technique. It’ll make you a better fisherman. Glenn: That’s perfect advice. I think we’ve all of us have done that. That’s a great way of learning. Chris Zaldain: Yes. Absolutely Glenn: Thank you so much for your time. I appreciate it. Chris Zaldain: Thank you, Glenn.

    Best Glasses For Fishing: How To Choose | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Best Glasses For Fishing: How To Choose | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020


    Hey, folks. Glenn May here with BassResource.com, and
    today I want to talk to you about a tool that’s often not talked about. It is something that is vital to the success
    of your fishing and yet most people don’t really put as much thought into them as you
    would, say, your fishing gear such as you line, your reels, your rod, that sort of thing. That is your sunglasses. These, right here. Fishing sunglasses, the right kind do a variety
    of things for you on the water. Obviously, they protect your eyes from the
    sun such as the harmful UVA and UVB rays, which, you know, if you guys are out on the
    water all the time, you need to have glasses just to protect your eyes. I mean, you’re wearing sunscreen or you’re
    wearing the buffs, I’m wearing sunscreen today, you have to do that to protect yourself. You’ve got to protect your eyes too, even
    when it’s cloudy out. But they do more than that. Polarized sunglasses allow you to look in
    the water and that’s because they cut the glare down, the reflection down in the water,
    and you can see fish-holding structure. You can see rock piles. You can see logs. You can see weed lines. You can see pockets in the weeds, for example,
    in milfoil. And you can see under docks. It allows you to see what’s going on, plus
    the baitfish activity, and it will help you tune in to what’s going on underwater and
    help you catch more fish that way. Also, they protect your eyes from objects. You know what I mean? We’ve fished enough times, so we know we end
    up hooking on something. You yank on it and guess what? You’ve got this lure coming back at you, at
    mach 80 with a bunch of hooks in it, it can come right back at your face. Or a fish strikes a lure and it’s right at
    the surface and you set the hook and you miss them, here comes that lure. Well, these glasses here can protect your
    eyes from getting a hook in them. So, there’s a variety of things that you…reasons
    why you should get glasses, but let’s dive into really what the components and what you
    need to look into to buy the right kind of glasses for you that’s going to last you for
    a long time. Starting with the lenses. The lenses themselves are basically two different
    colors you can get them in. One is this gray and the other shade is an
    amber or, kind of, an orange, or a copper tint. The amber or the gray ones, that’s what these
    are. The gray tint is, kind of, your universal,
    all-around. If you can only get one pair of glasses, that’s
    the shade you can get because it works whether it’s sunny or cloudy outside, rainy, what
    have you, and it’s pretty year-around, all-around purpose. Bright sunny days is really what they’re best
    for but they work all around. The amber ones or the copper ones, those are
    kind of a specialty but those are really for low-light conditions early morning, evening,
    really cloudy days or say, for example, you’re sight fishing. What they do is will give you the contrast. When you’re looking under water, it really
    brings a lot of contrast to the items underneath the water and you can see them better. So, it really helps you in those darker days
    to be able to see what’s going on under the water. More about lenses, they come in, basically,
    two different materials. There’s glass and polycarbonate and there’s
    advantages and disadvantages to both. And the glass traditionally has been the best
    as far as clarity. They’ve, obviously, been around for a long
    time. They’re very clear. They offer greater visibility underwater,
    to a certain extent and you can get them in prescription, different ranges of prescriptions,
    a lot easier than you could polycarbonate. The problem with glass lenses is that they’re
    heavy. Over the course of a day of fishing, that
    can weigh on you. I mean, if you’re fishing on a hot summer
    day, the weight of the glasses can slide down your nose and just constantly you’re messing
    with them all day along. The weight of it can also wear down on your
    nose and actually become uncomfortable. Polycarbonate lenses, on the other hand, are
    a lot lighter, so they don’t do that. The newer ones, in the last couple of years
    that have come out, they’re actually really good quality and the difference in clarity
    between glass and polycarbonate has really come together quickly. The polycarbonate, even the curved ones, they
    are really distortion free these days. They’ve done really, really well. So, they have really good clarity and they’re
    not as expensive as glass. That’s another reason why they’re really good. The polycarbonate, this specifically one,
    these ones here are from Wiley X and these are actually industrial grade polycarbonate,
    meaning…I talked earlier about objects coming at your eyes, it’s actually like a shop glasses. It won’t shatter, it won’t break under most
    conditions as something like a jig comes flying right back at your eye, it’s actually going
    to protect your eyes. Whereas glass, depending on the manufacturer,
    it can shatter or crack. That could be a problem near your eyes. So, this was one of the reasons why I really
    like polycarbonate a lot better. But let’s talk a little bit about the frames
    themselves. Again, they come in different materials, primarily
    metal or, you know, polymer. Metal has its benefits. It’s more durable. It doesn’t bend as much. You can accidentally sit on them and potentially
    not damage them as you might with the polymer lenses or glasses but they’re also heavy. And if you have a metal frame with glass that…actually,
    it’s given me headaches. I used to have glasses like that and it would
    give me a headache by the end of the day because of all the weight on the bridge of my nose
    and on my ears. My ears would start to hurt after a while. So, these are nice and lightweight. These are called the Tide glasses. I really do like them because they’re just
    super light. I don’t even know I’ll have them on all day
    long. The cool thing about, also, this type of material
    is the shape. As you can see, this is a wraparound design. This is called the Tide, if you want to know. But there are some important things to think
    about when you’re getting the shape because that’s critical. For me, you want the shape to prevent any
    sort of light from getting inside your face or in inside the glenses. Anything that’s not coming through the lens,
    you want to block out, completely block out. And that’s what the wraparound design does,
    it completely blocks out the light. Even more so though, it has to fit your face. I have, kind of, a small, narrow face, so
    most glasses don’t fit me right. They’re too wide and when you have them too
    wide, say, for example, the sun is at your back, you’ve got the sun coming straight through
    or light reflecting off the water and it will come through, hit the inside of your lens
    and you get these bright flashes that are really annoying, very distracting, and it’s
    hard to see. And even if you don’t have bright light going
    in there, if you have a little bit of light getting in there, you get this closeup of
    your eyeball that, again, it impedes, you know, the clarity and, you know, the see. So wraparound for me, it has to block the
    light all the way around, including down here by my cheeks. Very, very important because, you know, when
    we’re fishing, we’re looking down all day long, looking downward and any light coming
    up, reflecting off the waters will get up underneath the bottom of the glasses and can,
    again, get in the way of you seeing things. It could almost blind you, this flashing lights
    of ripples off the water. For some people, the way their face is shaped,
    the light can come through the top of the frame. So, what’s really important is for you to
    try on a variety of different frames to see what fits you best. The Wiley brand, I think they have 40 different
    frames to fit a variety of different faces. So that’s what I would go with and that’s
    what I’m most familiar with. But there’s, you know, other manufacturers
    too that make different frame sizes, so definitely try those on. The key thing here is that this is a tool
    and you got to put as much thought into it as you would your rods and reels. I know some people don’t like the wraparound
    design because they don’t like the looks of it. If you’re looking for a fashion show, get
    yourself another pair of glasses that you wear off the water. That’s my best advice because when you’re
    on the water, you need your equipment to work for you in order for you to catch more fish. The wraparound design is to kind of block
    the light on the side here, that sort of thing is what you want. One other thing, if you noticed, this is a
    copper lens or copper mirror finish, they come in all kinds of finishes. I’ve seen green, blue, amber, there’s all
    kinds of different…I like the copper. This is a gray shade with copper lens that
    is best suited for bright sunny days like today and you’re fishing in shallow water. What the lenses do, the mirrored lenses cut
    out a certain bandwidth of light. Not a lot. It doesn’t like eliminate it, but it reduces
    the amount of light coming in of a certain bandwidth. And, in this case, it cuts down on some of
    that bright sunshine when you’re fishing in freshwater. Saltwater, you’re out with nothing but water
    all around. You don’t have land like this. And so, there’s a lot of blue rays. So, a blue-mirrored finish actually is better
    for saltwater fishing. You don’t have to look in shallow water there
    either. But this is what I like best for fishing in
    shallow water. Last thing I want to talk about is a little
    bit about care. Most glasses like this come with a lanyard. And you can also buy lanyards aftermarket
    but use them. Definitely use them. I know you, you drop them, you misplace them,
    you lose them, you put them down on your seat after you caught a fish and then guess what? You either to sit down on them and break them
    or you can step on them. The lanyards or free, use them. It took me a while to get used to mine. I didn’t start using a lanyard until a couple
    of years ago because these, you know, glasses get expensive. They’re over 100 bucks, so you want to take
    care of them. They usually come with a case, put them in
    the case when you’re done with them. So, again, you don’t accidentally step on
    them or crushing them putting something on them. They usually have a soft cloth to keep them
    clean, definitely use that soft cloth. Don’t use any cloth because you could scratch
    the lens, a little bit of care. It’s simple, basic stuff, guys. A lot of us don’t do it, but when you’re spending
    over 100 bucks on a pair of glasses, take the time to take care of them and they’re
    going to last you as long as you take care of them. I have a pair of glasses that’s over 30 years
    old now that I use for driving my truck now, but they will last you if you take care of
    them. Anyway, I hope that really helps you figure
    out what glasses work best for you. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    How To Fish Grubs On A Jighead | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    How To Fish Grubs On A Jighead | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020


    There we are! That was easy. Just a little
    grub on a jig head. Ooh, he wants to play today. This is candy man, they just cannot
    resist this, cannot resist it. Come on, don’t go under the boat. It’s light line, you gotta
    take your time getting them in. Look at this, look at this. Here we go. Fell victim to a grub here on a jig head.
    That’s were talking about today. Today I’m gonna show you how to rig it, what type of
    equipment to use. And then I’m gonna take you on the water and show you what techniques
    you can use for fishing a grub on a jig head. Hey folks, Glenn May, here with BassResource.com.
    Today I want to talk to you about fishing grubs. Grubs on a jig head to be specific. If you’re not sure how to rig this, I’ve
    got a video on how to rig grubs, It’s linked underneath this video here, you can take a
    look at that later, but right now you talk to you about the different equipment and terminal
    tackle to use and then I’m going to take you out and show you how to fish it. So first off, what I’m using here is a ball
    head jig and it’s got a wire guard on there. It’s a real light wire hook. It’s about a
    1/0 hook, thin for finessing but the guard on there keeps some of the weeds and gunk
    off of it and prevents it from getting hung up and stuff. Tied to it I’m using 6 pound fluorocarbon
    line. The fluorocarbon gives me gives me that sensitivity I need to feel those light bites
    plus it’s clearer in water and doesn’t get to be seen as much. It’s a little more invisible,
    if you will. I fish in real clear water so that’s important. Because we’re using real light line we need
    to match it up with the right rod. So a medium, light action rod. . . that’s the kind that
    you want, because if you have anything heavier than that you risk breaking the line or straightening
    out that hook during the fight and during the hook set. So medium light action spinning
    outfit is what we are doing. Let me tell you little bit about the weight
    here. This weight is just an eighth ounce weight. That’s a great starting point. Good
    all round size to use. A lot of the bites come on the fall, so you want a nice slow
    fall. You can go up to a quarter ounce weight if you want. If you’re fishing really deep
    that’s not a problem, but I wouldn’t really want to go any higher than that. So you don’t
    need a whole bunch of jig heads. Just get yourself an eighth ounce, quarter ounce, maybe
    a three eighth but no, that’s even too much. That’s all you need. Simple set up. Now we’re
    ready to go. Now you know the equipment. Now you know the gear. Let’s go out fishing. All right, so what I’m fishing here is kind
    of a rocky point, some underwater boulders, with no weeds, which is a great place to fish
    this rig. Even though I have a wire guard here for weeds, I don’t have to worry about
    it because I don’t have any weeds. Really all it takes is a nice light cast you
    don’t want to throw it out really far. Just throw it out, and then let it sink a little
    bit and then you’re going to reel it back. That’s the first technique I’m going to show
    you here. So you just cast that grub out there. Let
    it fall. I flip the bail, and then all we are going to do is a steady retrieve. Point
    the rod tip down towards the water and slowly bring it back. And try to follow the contour
    of the bottom. So you might want give it a little pause, let it sink a little bit and
    then reel again. And that’s all we are going to do, is follow this point on out and see
    if there are any fish hanging out on the bottom. Now the bite sometimes is real subtle, so
    you have to pay real close attention to feeling that. So I like to put the rod at a little
    bit of an angle here. It’s a little bit easier to detect the bite. Now to set the hook, because this wire, light
    wire hook it’s exposed and you’re only using 6 pound test, you don’t have to set the hook
    really hard. Matter of fact if you really pop it hard, you’re just going to break the
    line or straighten out that hook. So instead just reel a bit harder, just pull back on
    it and you will set the hook. It doesn’t take much effort to get that light wire hook to
    go past the barb in the fish’s mouth and then you have them. So let me show you one other way I like to
    fish this. And that is, you throw it out there and let it fall. In this case you are going
    to let fall way to the bottom, so when you do pay real close attention to that line.
    If there are any fish that hits it while it’s falling the line will pop, twitch, jump, jerk,
    do something like that. If that happens you want to set the hook. Now it’s at the bottom, all you’re going to
    do it point the rod tip down towards the water and now lift it up to about the 11 o’clock
    position and then let it fall. And all I’m doing is I’m letting, I’m following the drop
    with the rod tip and I’m reeling up the slack as I do it. I’m not moving the bait ahead
    with the reel, I’m doing that with the rod. So just lift up, slowly, and just let it fall,
    flutter right back down. A lot of times those bites occur right as the bait is falling. And that’s really all there is to it to fishing
    grubs, it’s very simple, straightforward. The thing about though, here’s a little tip,
    if you’re catching fish on crankbaits, matter of fact this is a really good place to . . . anywhere
    you throw crank baits, that’s where you want to throw this, but if you are catching fish
    on crankbaits and the bite dies off. Pick up a grub and go back through those areas
    and you will start catching fish again. So you can cover a lot of water doing it this
    way, too. Great way to catch a lot of fish. Now, I’ll fish a little bit differently in
    the summer than I do in say the spring. In the summer I’m fishing a little bit deeper.
    I’m fishing main lake points, I might fish humps, that sort of thing. Whereas in the
    spring I will go shallow, I will go back to coves, flats, secondary points, those are
    the things I will be targeting. Great bait to use during those times of the year especially
    when the fish are active and feeding on bait fish. For more tips and tricks like this visit BassResource.com.

    Livewell Additives & Oxygenating Systems: The TRUTH! | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Livewell Additives & Oxygenating Systems: The TRUTH! | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020


    Glenn: Hey folks, Glenn May here with BassResource.com. I’m here with the 2019 ICAST Show at the Sure-Life
    Laboratories booth. These guys make the PLEASE RELEASE ME formula
    and the CATCH AND RELEASE formula. These are additives that go in your livewell
    to not only keep your fish healthy in the livewell, but they’re actually in better condition
    when you take them out of the livewell than they were when you first put them in. Now the mastermind behind that, the guy who
    designed these, is standing right here next to me, Tony Gergely. I know you guys don’t recognize him, but he’s
    the guy behind this formula that keeps fish alive for so many, I don’t know how many decades
    now you’ve doing this. But Tony, I have a quick question for you. I see this on other forums and I see this
    on social media, people will say, if you’ve got an oxygenator in your livewell, if you
    put these in there, there’s some sort of negative chemical reaction that can actually kill the
    fish. And I hear a lot of debate going back and
    forth on this whether or not this is true. So I want to get it straight from you, is
    that true or not? Tony: Not, it’s not true, it’s definitely
    not true. And that’s what’s amazing about the fishing
    industry because I’ve been in this since 1983. Doug Hannon and I, the late Doug Hannon, who
    was one of my best friends, we developed this first formulation in 1983. This is like the seventh version of it. I make over 55 different products for keeping
    bait alive and sport fish alive. And what amazes me about this industry is
    how people go out, they only way they can compete against me is to bad mouth things
    and come out with things that are totally untrue, which gets a little infuriating after
    a while, I’ll be honest with you, right? So I get calls all the time, people standing
    in Bass Pro Shops or whatever’s like, “Hey, I’m reading this like you can’t use your products
    with the oxygenator.” And I say, that’s…that’s a lie, let just
    put it that way, to be honest with you. Which really irritates me because to sell
    your product, why do you have to put another product down? Which makes you think about that product,
    to be honest with you. We don’t do that. We’ve manufactured the best chemical formulation
    for keeping bass alive in livewells, CATCH AND RELEASE and PLEASE RELEASE ME. It’s totally compatible with the oxygenator. And that’s the truth, that is truth. It works with the oxygenator, hydrogen peroxide,
    any type of device, pure oxygen and so forth. Why people have to say this? I have no earthly idea. And to be honest with you, it’s a total waste
    of time and I’ve actually talked to people about it and I don’t know where it came from,
    it doesn’t make any sense. Glenn: You’re pretty passionate about this,
    I can tell. But I understand why you can take it personally. You’ve been doing this for so long, you created
    this and have people bad mouth that, I totally understand that, that makes sense. But that’s the truth, guys. You can use this in your livewell, not only
    with an oxygenator but if you’re using hydrogen peroxide, which by the way only use 4 ounces
    for a 15-gallon livewell. You don’t want to use very much, but it’s
    actually putting oxygen in your… Tony: It totally saturates the water because
    I can tell you this, right? If you use your mechanical devices in your
    boat because of battery failure or whatever, if you’ve got hydrogen peroxide in there,
    it’s chemical. It actually saturates the water up to 900
    parts per million of pure oxygen and it’s an equilibrium stage because it’s H2O2 and
    as the bass breathes, it pulls out at an oxygen molecule and the H2O2 converts to an oxygen
    molecule and a water molecule. So I’ve even told bait stores this before,
    if you’ve got $500 worth the bait in there and a hurricane comes through or whatever,
    you lose electricity, just put hydrogen peroxide in there, it’s going gonna save you $500 worth
    of bait. And I’ve had bait stores over the last 30
    years that come to me once in a while and say, “I remember you telling me this.” And one guy here last year at this Big Rock
    Sports Show in Nashville, Tennessee, for instance, they had a major accident on the power poles
    out in front of their store, they lost electricity. And he remembered what I said, but he didn’t
    remember the exact dosage but he just went to Walgreens, the CVS whatever he said, and
    bought $10 worth of hydrogen peroxide, they are 97 cents a bottle. He said, “Glug, glug, glug into it,” and he
    said, “I hope this works.” He said,” I went back the next day, they still
    didn’t have electricity yet.” All his bait was still alive. He said, “Thank you, I spent 10 bucks and
    you saved me 500 bucks.” You see what I’m saying? But it works like that in a livewell situation
    at the same time. But going back to what we said, I get phone
    calls, I get emails, it’s been going on for a couple of years. I’m thinking, I was like, why does a company
    have to tell another, say, don’t use this product because it doesn’t work which just
    totally untrue? There’s a lot of great products in here. In the fishing industry, it amazes me because
    I’m in it for so long like I said, since 1983. So coming up to 40 years, really. Fishermen buy into a lot of things and especially
    the younger ones now because of social media and so forth, like the truth is the truth. And I wouldn’t be in business for as long
    as I have if I haven’t been telling them the truth. And this is the truth, our products are compatible
    with the oxygenator. Glenn: Well, there you have it. You guys got it? You can’t get it any straighter than that,
    right? Tony: Don’t call and don’t email anymore,
    all right? This really works. Glenn: All right, guys, you got it. Tony: I’ll talk to you no problem. Glenn: Well, there you go, guys, that’s the
    truth, now let’s hope that’s all straightened out. You guys have a great day. Thanks for watching.

    What do I use to catch bass? | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    What do I use to catch bass? | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020


    Glenn: Hey, folks. Glenn May here with BassResource.com. And today I’m with Ott DeFoe here at the Bass
    Master Classic in Knoxville, Tennessee. I got a quick question for you. Actually, it’s not my question, it’s people
    that come to our site that are always asking for advice either on the forums or they’re
    emailing us, questions on Instagram. Lot of people are new the sport and they ask,
    just basically, “What do I use to catch bass?” Like, it’s kind of an open question. But how would you answer that question? Ott: For me, you know, that’s a very, very
    open question and you look at how diverse our whole country is and what works in different
    areas and what doesn’t. But my favorite thing all around the country
    is probably a Crane Bait, it’s something that I can use that I can fish fairly quickly,
    I can cover water with, and I can find fish that are typically fairly active. So you know, I’m gonna use some type of a
    Crane Bait, shallow runner in some places, deep runner in some places, a medium diver
    in others. But I love a Crane Bait and just the fact
    that I can throw it out and I reel it back in, and I throw it out and I reel it back
    in, and I throw it out and I reel it back in. That’s what I like about a Crane Bait is that
    I’m able to cover water with it to fish new places. And more times than not, you can find a fish
    that will bite a Crane Bait. Glenn: There’s no specialty rigging or special
    way to retrieve it, it’s just pretty simple. Ott: That’s right. Throw it out and bring it back. Yeah. Glenn: I like that. That’s great. Gerald Swindle: I think one of the things
    you can always use to catch fish is a plastic worm. You can take a rubber worm, whether it’s a
    Zoom Trick Worm or Zoom Finesse Worm, and rig it on a 12-pound line, a light sinker,
    and cast it to cover, with like a four aught small shank hook and, dude, you’re gonna get
    bites. You know, you can’t hardly go wrong if you’re
    just learning to fish, tie on a plastic worm, Texas rig, and just ease around and cast at
    wood, cast at cover, you’re gonna get bites. Glenn: This is a universal rig for everything? Gerald: It’s a universal, just a plain old
    plastic Texas rig worm will get you bites. Glenn: Don’t over think it. Gerald: Do not overthink it. Just cast, let it go to the bottom. Kind of use your imagination, picture yourself
    as the worm, letting it fall down in the cover, fish it, and the slower you fish it the better. Kevin VanDam: Well, you know, there’s so many
    different lures that you can use to catch bass. But one thing I can tell people, especially
    beginning fishermen, is bass in general are very cover or target oriented. They like to hang around, you know, structure
    like a, you know, tree, or dock, or clump of grass, or lily pads, or a stump, or something
    like that. So being able to make a really good accurate
    cast with a soft presentation is probably some of the best advice that I can give you
    to catch more of them. So if I can pitch my lure over to where a
    bass is sitting and not have them spook from the splash of it and land right target to
    them, you know, in front of them, a lot of times they’ll react to it. So working on your casting accuracy is a great
    thing to do to catch more bass and it’s something you can do. Like, if you live in Michigan like I do, when
    I was a kid, that’s what I would do is sit in the living room or the basement and practice
    casting at little buckets or a paper plate or something like that just to make those
    good, accurate casts. Glenn: Very simple question. What do I use to catch bass? Brandon Palaniuk: Now, see, that’s like one
    of the most broad questions you could ask in fishing. And I don’t know that anyone has enough patience
    to sit here and listen to me explain all the answers that could go into that question. Glenn: Let’s do the cliff note version. Brandon: So I would say, like, number one
    thing you can do is research on BassResource.com, right? There’s ton of information that you can gather. So usually when people ask that question,
    they haven’t done the research to find those answers. And to go when you start to do your research,
    I would try to narrow it down to the type of body of water that you’re fishing. Is it a river, a highland reservoir, a natural
    lake? What are the current conditions? Is it muddy? Is it clear water? You know, try to narrow all of those things
    that Mother Nature can change, all those conditions and variables, and use that in your research
    to figure out what you should use to catch fish. Because all of those conditions are going
    to adjust what you throw. So I could go on and on about all those different
    variables because there’s so many combinations, but really it’s, like, the best thing to do
    is there’s so much information out there is just to go and research the style of body
    of water. It doesn’t have to be that exact body of water
    but just those similar conditions to allow you to figure out what’s the best things to
    use at certain times until it just becomes second nature to you. Glenn: It’s kind of like when you’re planning
    to go on vacation. You do your research first, kind of like what
    you want to do before you get there. Brandon: Exactly. Exactly. It’s like if you go to Subway and you’re ordering
    a sandwich, you’ve done it enough times after a while that you know when you walk in there
    what you’re gonna…you’re gonna pull up to the line, you’re gonna order this type of
    bread, you’re gonna order this type of cheese and meat and so on and so forth. Glenn: Turkey or chicken. Brandon: Yeah. Turkey. Till you get to what you want at the end. But before, if you’ve never been there, you
    walk in, you don’t really know what to do, you don’t know what you’d like or combinations. And so, the more research you do, the more
    knowledge you have and you’re able to use to figure that out. So that’s my best advice without going into
    a super long conversation of every single bait you should use for every single condition. Glenn: Makes sense. Thank you so much. I appreciate that. Edwin Evers: I try to keep it simple. If you really think about it, it’s gonna be
    a little long-winded question, but think about it. Bass eat three things. They eat shad, they eat blue gills, and they
    eat crawdads, okay? And when you go into a Bass Pro store and
    thousands and thousands of lures, and you’re trying to pick out a lure, remember those
    three things, you know. A shad’s gonna be a white or chartreuse colored
    type bait, you know. A crawdad’s gonna be a brown or a dark-colored
    type bait. A bluegill’s gonna be a chartreuse-colored
    type bait. And if you break it down a little bit more,
    you know, shad could be really the main diet summer to fall, crawdads could be the main
    diet winter to spring, you know, bluegills right there in the summer especially around
    the bluegill spawn. So it’s not more about, you know, this particular
    bait that costs $22 or this one that costs $3. It’s more about, “Hey, what do you think those
    bass are eating in the body of water you’re going to?” Now, maybe if my beginner fisherman that we’re
    talking to here is fishing in a pond, take those three equations, take that shad equation
    out. Now you’re just dealing with bluegills and
    crawdads. You might throw a frog in there because you
    got, you know, but 90% of all the bass, they eat those three things no matter where you’re
    at, a river, a lake, a pond. So keep that in mind when you’re choosing
    a lure. That’s what they eat, you know. And I’ve always said that the wrong bait in
    the right place will catch them. So you know, a couple of baits that you’ve
    got confidence in, put them on, cover a lot of water, and eventually you’re gonna run
    into them. Keith Poche: Yeah. You know, I mean, we fish with a lot of different
    things. And at the end of the day, we have to go with
    what we feel confident in and what we feel like we excel at. You know, an angler has to figure that out. But to bring things to a simplified form,
    you know, you take just like a regular, like a soft plastic worm. I like The General, it’s a Berkley product,
    it’s a soft plastic stick bait. That bait has been catching fish for many,
    many years. It’s easy to fish. You can fish it weightless with just a hook
    or you can put it on a shaky head, you can put it with a little small bullet weight,
    and just cast it around. That bait is a fish-catching machine. It’s a small profile, it’s a finesse-type
    technique, so anything to that effect, you know, just a straight worm. The Hit Worm is a great worm. You know, to start out just to catch fish,
    not getting into the hard baits yet, I think, is the real deal. Because the hard baits is a different level
    in my opinion. It took me a while to learn hard baits to
    really dial them in and know how to fish them and where to fish them. But plastics, you can throw them anywhere,
    they’re weedless, they catch a ton of fish and…yeah. I mean, that’s what I would suggest for a
    beginner to learn how to really get a confidence in how to catch fish and where to catch fish. But, you know, there’s a ton of different
    baits, and you can spend all your baits. But fishing those, you know, small worms will
    get you a lot of bites and some big bites as well. And you know, at one of my recent events,
    I was throwing The General on a shaky head and I finished 12th at the Bass Pro Tour,
    and it was a great event. I caught pretty much 95% of my fish on that
    little old, you know, straight, do nothing worm. It’s just a bait that’s been catching fish
    for many years and it’s proven to work, and I suggest that for anybody that’s wanting
    to go out and have a good time and catch a lot of fish. Chris Zaldain: Yeah. You know, I always say, man, you could get
    the job done, you know, whatever that job may be, catching a five-pounder, just a bite. Always something you could wind, like a spinner
    bait or a crank bait, and something you could fish real slow, like a jig or a worm. So with that kind of one-two punch and sticking
    around high percentage areas like main lake points, like secondary points, you can’t go
    wrong. So pick you a nice half-ounce chartreuse and
    white spinnerbait. I like the Santone spinnerbaits, Santone jig,
    something you could work on the bottom. And you know, stick to those points. I think that’s about as basic as you could
    get. There’s always fish. I don’t care if they’re spawning, I don’t
    care if it’s the dead of winter, there are always fish on main lake points no matter
    what lake you’re on.

    Best Fall Worm Fishing Tips for Bass Fishing (Because These Work!) | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Best Fall Worm Fishing Tips for Bass Fishing (Because These Work!) | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020


    Glenn: There we go. Here we go. Here we go. Boy, he’s cold. Water temps are in the lower 50s, man. Nice coloring on them though, boy. Keri: Mm-hmm. Glenn: Beautiful fish. Keri: Mm-hmm. Glenn: All right. Let’s let this boy go. Off he goes. Hey, folks. Glenn May here with bassresource.com. And today, let’s talk about fishing worms
    in the fall. Worms can be really deadly in the fall because
    they kinda mimic a baitfish, which is exactly what the bass are chasing during the fall. They are actively feeding, chasing schools
    of baitfish up and down that lake everywhere they can, and this works really well, especially
    if the fish are a little bit lethargic. If they’re not in a super feeding mood, they
    don’t want to chase down a crankbait, for example, or topwater, that’s where this comes
    into play. It’s a really good time to throw it or if
    they’re buried up in those weeds. So, I’m gonna talk to you a little bit about
    how I fish with it during the fall. But first, I wanna talk a little bit about
    the equipment that I’m using here. This is a 7-foot, medium-heavy power rod. The fast action tip, it’s pretty stout because
    I don’t know where I’m fishing in the fall. They can be anywhere. So, I want something that’s a little heavy
    that I can fish those areas in case I get into some thick weeds or something. Here I’m using a 15-pound Seaguar InvizX line. This is a fluorocarbon line. I’m using it straight up. I’m not using braid. I’m not using leaders or anything like that. I do have backing in here, so I only have
    to put like 50, 60 yards of it on here because it gets expensive. But I’m not using anything else. I’m not even putting braid on this because
    braid…braid doesn’t work so well in rocky areas. So, I don’t know where the fish are gonna
    be in the fall. They can be anywhere. They can be up on main lake points in the
    morning and can be all back in the coves in the afternoon and anywhere in between during
    the course of the day, sitting up on chunk rock or gravel beds or anywhere. So, if they’re in a rocky area, I don’t necessarily
    wanna throw braid because it can get frayed and get nicked and cut up. So, InvizX is pretty abrasion resistant and
    it’s got that sensitivity that I really want. Plus the water as it begins to clear throughout
    fall, it gets clearer and clearer, braid is really opaque, you can’t hide it whereas fluorocarbon,
    it’s got some stealth capabilities to it. You don’t see it as well in the water. So, this is the reason I like using fluorocarbon. And I’ve got… The reel on it is a…this is a 7:3:1 reel. Yeah, 7:3:1 reel. You don’t have to have that speed. We’re not fishing real fast. You can go down to 6:1 reel if you want, but
    a nice smooth drag is what you want. And here I’m using a Yum. This is a 7-inch ribbontail worm and I’ve
    got it tied on here. This is a 2/0 extra-wide gap hook and I’m
    using an 8-ounce. Man, this is three-eighth-ounce weight with
    a bobber stopper. Now, this is really important, a lot of times
    when you’re fishing Texas rigged baits, you’re using a quarter-ounce or bigger. Sometimes a half-ounce weight. Well, this doesn’t have a lot of appendages
    to it. It doesn’t have it at all. It just has the ribbontail. Plus it’s a thin profile bait, so it goes
    through the water really fast. And a lot of times your bites are gonna come
    on the fall. So, if you have a heavy weight on here, it’s
    just gonna go right through that water column and you’re gonna miss that opportunity to
    get bit. So, you want a lighter, lighter weight on
    here and it…have that nice slow fall. You know, 1/8-ounce weight seems really light,
    but when you watch this fall, the water falls about the same rate as those thicker Texas
    rig plastics that are using a 3/8-ounce weight. So, that’s how I rig it. That’s what I’m using throughout the fall. Now, let’s go out and fish it. Keri: There we go. Nice one. Woohoo! Glenn: That’ll do. Come here. Come here. Keri: Nice. Get him in the boat. Glenn: I win! Keri: Woohoo! Worm fishing. Glenn: Wow. Keri: Fall worm fishing. Glenn: That is called fall worm fishing right
    there, boys. Keri: Nice. I’m in the middle of nowhere. Glenn: It’s a good fish. Look at the front. I’ll put my hand in and get the hook out. Wow. There we go. I like that. Keri: Nice little two and a half pounder. Glenn: That’ll work. Keri: Yeah. Glenn: He’s probably close to three. This looks a little short. Keri: Yeah. Glenn: But that’ll work. Keri: He’s more fat than he is long. Glenn: We’ll take it. Keri: Yeah, we’ll take it. Glenn: Thank you, guy. So the fall, what I like to do is I break
    fall up into two different seasons really. There’s the early fall which is late summer
    into mid-fall which is when the water temperature gets down into the 50s, mid-50-ish or so. That’s the first half of fall. The second half is from that mid-50s range
    when the water temperature gets down into the mid to low 40s, basically early winter. That is the whole fall season for me. That’s how I break it up. So, in the beginning, the first half, the
    fish are roaming around a lot, they’re very active, they’re chasing down those baitfish,
    and they’re not gonna stay at any one place for that reason. So, it’s hard to track them down but I have
    a methodical pro approach to that. What I first do is I start on the outside
    of bays and coves that have freshwater feeding into them. The freshwater brings in oxygen-rich water,
    and that’s what the baitfish are looking for this time of year is oxygen-rich water. So, if a bay doesn’t have any freshwater flowing
    into it, I’ll skip it and move to the next one. And what I like to do is I’ll just start on
    the outside of those first. I’m looking for main lake points, humps, ridges,
    drop-offs, those types of things. And I’ll take this, not too deep of water,
    10 feet, 15 feet of water, not that deep, and I’ll throw it out here and I’ll just let
    it fall way to the bottom. And all you’re doing is when you’re letting
    it fall, is you’re watching. Just watch your line. Watch and watch and watch. And it’s on slackline so you’re not gonna
    feel the bite. A lot of times a bite occurs when it’s falling. So, you’ll watch that line and you’re looking
    forward to twitch, pot, jump or sometimes it just accelerates as it’s falling. And that’s a fish on the other line. So set up, set the hook, get that fish. Just let it fall. Once it falls, I just lift up on the rod tip
    about a foot or two and let it fall back down. And that’s all I’m doing. I’m working it down that point off that hump
    in a little bit deeper water. And I’m doing it pretty quickly. I’m not really letting it sit on the bottom
    very long at all. I’m just moving it along, covering water. And I’ll make two or three pumps like that,
    reel it back up, and throw again. And then make my way towards shallower water
    as I work into that cove, throwing at everything I can. I’m throwing at laydowns, I’m throwing at
    chunk rock, docks, anything like that. I like to throw over at that stuff. If I don’t get bit, pick up, and move again. I’m covering water quickly. You gotta move fast to find those schools
    of fish. Yeah, I like to throw it over… This is great to swim over the top of weed
    beds. When you get those big weed flats towards
    the backs of coves, you can throw this over the top of them and just swim it back. I just reel it in just like you would a crankbait,
    nice and slow over the top of those weeds. Those fish, if they’re in there, they’re gonna
    come out of it like a Polaris missile. Just boom, crush it, right? A great way to fish it. Now, once I do catch a fish, here’s what’s
    gonna be hard to do. You’ve now caught one in a school because
    these bass, what they do is they school up. They’re moving in packs of 3 to 20, 25 or
    more chasing down these baitfish. So, if you catch one, there’s gonna be more
    in that area. So, the hard thing to do is you’ve been moving
    along covering water really quick, fishing aggressively and fast, and boom, you catch
    a fish. Well, you’re gonna think, “Okay. That’s how I catch fish. It’s easy to do that, so, okay. I’ve got to keep fishing that way.” Don’t do that. You’ve now found that school, slow down and
    work it. Catch as many as you can. So, what you want to do is like I do, I’ll
    throw out a buoy and I’ll just sit there and I’ll fish that area, crisscrossing it different
    ways, slow down my retrieves, speed up my retrieves, maybe try a different color, but
    I’ll milk it for the best I…most I can to get as many fish out of that school. Now, once I’ve caught a bunch and the bite
    slows down, depending on where I’m at…so, if I’m fishing a good piece of structure that
    the fish are really set up on, then I might hang out there again and wait for the next
    school of fish to come by and set up and catch more fish that way. And sometimes you only got to wait 15, 20
    minutes for the next school to come by and then the action picks up again and you’ll
    catch a lot more fish. I have won tournament who’s doing it that
    way. But if it’s not as good a piece of cover,
    and it’s kind of…they’re loosely relating to it, then once a bite dies off, pick up
    sticks and move on down and keep covering water again. Go back to fishing fast, hitting everything
    you can, every visible piece of cover. And then if I don’t, for example, if I’ve
    done all that at this point and still haven’t caught fish, then what I’ll do is I’ll pull
    off and I’ll look for that creek channel. And I’ll look for areas where the creek channel
    where it swings in closer to the shore, where it connects with maybe a secondary point or
    connects with a sandbar or just shallow water. I’ll look for those bends. And specifically, I’ll fish the inside bends
    of those coves. So, if the bend is like this, this area on
    this side here, the inside of that “C”, that’s the inside bend. It’s shallower there. The current isn’t as strong. If you can find chunk rock or any kind of
    cover like weeds or log, something like that, stumps, that’s an excellent place to fish. And I’ll target that. A lot of times the fish will come out there
    and suspend over that kind of cover. And you bring this worm over the top of it,
    you can even swim it over that like I just mentioned, and you’ll catch a lot of fish
    that way. If I do catch fish that way, then I’ll go
    down on the next creek bend. I’ll skip the whole straight area. You don’t catch a lot of fish that way. I’ve never really have. But go where to that next bend is and concentrate
    on that. Again, what you’re doing here, this methodical
    approach is you’re hitting all the targets, the places where fish can be set up ambushing
    baitfish. There we go. Yeah. That will do. Keri: A little bit better fish. Got a lot better fish. That’s what you’re looking for right there. Glenn: There we go. Keri: In the boat, Joe. Glenn: Come here. Come here, you. Keri: That’s what you’re looking for. He had to turn around so that he could steal
    my spot. Glenn: That’ll do the spot. That’ll do the trick. Keri: That’ll do ‘er. Glenn: It’s a good fish. I’m gonna let you go, buddy. Another good place to fish as you get to that
    middle of the fall and start transitioning to the late fall, and this a good segue way
    from mid-fall into early winter, the weeds, they start to die off. And as they die, they consume oxygen. And like I said earlier, the baitfish, they
    like to go for oxygen-rich water. So, they’re gonna pull out of those weeds
    as they’re dying and go to the deeper weeds where it’s still green. So, those outside weed edges and that 10 to
    25 feet range, that’s an excellent place to target during the mid to late fall with this
    worm. And here, all you’re doing is still somewhat
    fast fishing. You’re throwing it out there and letting it
    fall all the way down looking for that bite as it falls. If you don’t get bit, lift up, let it fall
    again, lift up, let it fall. Try that technique for a while. If that doesn’t work and you know the fish
    are in those outside weed lines, then swim it. Slowly swim it. You’re throwing it really deep now so it doesn’t
    take much to get it to go too high on the water column. Keep it down and then just slowly moving it
    just enough to keep it off the bottom. It’s not a fast move, but it’s just slowly
    moving along. And a lot of times those fish will clock it
    and they’ll come out, and they’ll dive out of those weed lines and hit the bait. We’d like a bigger one, please. One of us. There’s the pick up and there’s the hooksset. Come here. Keri: That’s better. Glenn: That’ll do. Keri: A little football. A little football. I got me a football. Glenn: Another worm fish. Keri: I got me a little football. Glenn: Yeah. That’ll do. We’ll take it. Now, as you’re moving towards the end of fall,
    what’s happening is the fish will start pulling out of those shallow areas and now they’re
    gonna move deeper. What would be really nice to know… If you know this and you’re like… Because where are those fish gonna set up
    for the winter? Deep is relative in any lake so I can’t tell
    you exactly where they’re gonna be. I have some lakes where the fish will sit
    in 45 to 55 feet of water during the wintertime, whereas I have other lakes that don’t even
    get that deep. And that’s not necessarily the deepest part
    of the lake. And those lakes where they’re that deep, the
    deepest part of the lake is over 100 feet deep. So, you need to find out for yourself, like
    maybe go on the BassResource forums and ask on that particular lake. That’s a good way of finding out. Look at fishing reports during the wintertime. But if you know where those fish are gonna
    set up house in the wintertime, look at where they are now and then what is that route they’re
    gonna take? What are the stopping areas along the way
    such as humps, points, drop-offs, roadbeds, any kind of structure, where are they gonna
    sit as they make their way to deeper water? I call those bus stops. I wanna fish those bus stops during the late
    fall and in early winter, deeper and deeper and deeper looking for those fish. They are going to congregate and relate to
    those areas. In that time of year what I’m doing here is
    I’m not moving the worm as much. I’ll throw it out there, but if I’ve positioned
    the boat out into deeper water, say I’m fishing the point, a lot of times what happens, so
    you’re out here in deeper water, you cast, it lands here. If you lift up the rod a whole lot, it swings
    out towards you and then way down it drops. So, you’ve covered a lot of water and it’s
    too fast. The fish aren’t chasing bait as much. They’re not gonna chase it down that much. So, I only lift 3, 4 inches. Lift it up, swing it down, boom. Lift it up, it swings down, boom. So, I’m still covering water, but not as fast. I start to slow down that retrieve the colder
    the water gets. And in fact, there are times where I’ll take
    the boat and I’ll position it up shallow and I’ll throw it out to deeper water. I’ll position it right on top of the hump,
    for example. And I’ll fish it, throw it out in deeper water,
    let the worm reach the bottom. And here I just use the rod and I just slowly
    drag it up with the rod. And once I reach about here, I’ll reel back
    down and then I’ll slowly bring it up again with the rod. And I’m just feeling it bump along the bottom. Bump, bump, bump, bump, bump, bump, bump. So, those are the different ways how I fish
    it during the fall and into the early winter. I hope that helps. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    Fall Crankbait Fishing for Monster Bass! | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Fall Crankbait Fishing for Monster Bass! | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020


    Glenn: Well, got it. Keri: Hey look at that. That’s a nice fish. Glenn: That’s a really good fish. Keri: Yeah, it is. Of course right when I cast. Glenn: Really hanging on there. Keri: Gotta get the net. Glenn: I need a net, now. Keri: Nice fish. Glenn: That’ll do. Here we go. Keri: Awesome fish. Glenn: Hey folks, Glenn May here with BassResource.com,
    and today, let’s talk about crankbait fishing in the fall. Now, if there ever was a season for crankbaits,
    it’s the fall. And that’s because the bass are up actively
    chasing balls of baitfish. They’re going after shad, they’re going after
    the perch, they’re going after bluegill. They’re going after all that fish, chasing
    it all around the lake, actively feeding on baitfish this time of year, and there’s no
    other bait that mimics the baitfish any better than a crankbait. So, let’s talk about the different ways you
    can fish it to maximize this time of year. So, let’s start off with the equipment that
    I’m using. You gotta have really good, well-matched equipment,
    because these crankbaits, if you notice, you know, these are small treble hooks, that are
    on it. There’s not a big bite to them. And they’re thin wire. So, a couple things can go wrong, if you’re
    using the wrong equipment. Primarily, you can either rip the hooks right
    out of the fish’s mouth, or you can actually bend the hooks. I’ve had hooks… I’ve lost fish. I had a six-pound smallie I caught in the
    fall once, and he jumped and threw the hook, and I went, “Ah, great, that was wonderful.” And I brought it back, well I had two treble
    hooks that were sticking straight out. It just bent them out and came off that way,
    because I tried to horse him in. I clamped down on the drag and I was trying
    to horse that fish in, and I had the wrong rod, it was too stout, and everything went
    wrong. So, you’ve gotta have matched equipment for
    these treble hooks. Okay? So light wire hooks, small bite, means you
    can’t have stout equipment, you’re gonna lose a trophy fish if you do that. So, what I’ve got here is a medium power moderate
    action rod, okay. It’s got a lot of give and flex to it, okay. That’s what you want, because first of all,
    it allows you to fire that crankbait way out there, long distances, but it also has that
    spring and that give. When you’re fighting the fish back to the
    boat, this rod’s gonna give a little bit and take some of the pressure off those hooks. I’m also using a fluorocarbon line. I like using fluorocarbon, the Seagaur Tatsu
    line. This is 12 pound Tatsu line. Tatsu casts really well. It’s silky smooth, nice line. Fluorocarbon has that give to it, it’s got
    a little bit of stretch to it, so if the fish surges, that fluorocarbon’s gonna help work
    in concert with the rod to give a little bit when that fish takes off. Plus it’s got supersensitivity. And you would think, you know, you don’t have
    to have all that sensitivity because when a fish hits your crankbait you’re gonna know
    it, right? Not so much. A lot of times, what happens is that the crankbait’s
    moving along the water, a fish will come up behind it and he’ll grab it, and if he doesn’t
    like what he feels, it doesn’t feel natural to him, he’ll blow it out. And you won’t tell the difference, unless
    you’re using some real sensitive line. You can feel the vibration of that crankbait. It’ll go “tick tick tick tick tick tick,”
    and it’ll go to a “dut dut dut dut dut.” Or you’ll just kinda lose the feel with it. It won’t feel light, but it’ll just suddenly
    feel weird. That’s the best way I can explain it, it doesn’t
    feel right. And that’s oftentimes when the fish does that. Pulls up behind it, he’s matching the speed,
    he closes his mouth around it, it changes the action of that lure, and you’re not gonna
    feel that if you’re using, say for example just mono or something like that. It’s hard to feel those bites. I don’t use braid because braid has two things,
    it’s buoyant, not that it floats per se, but it’s buoyant, So you’re gonna have a bow in
    the water, you’re not gonna have a great connection with the bait, it’s not gonna let that crankbait
    get down to the depth that it should, plus it doesn’t have any give at all, no stretch
    whatsoever, and that’s absolutely contradictory to what you need when you’re using these treble
    hooks. So I don’t use any braid. For that reason, I don’t use braided fluorocarbon
    or any kind of leaders. I don’t want braid at all when I’m using crankbait. So I don’t want that to be part of the equation. I know fluorocarbon’s pretty expensive so
    I’ll put braid backing on here, so I only have to put say, 80 yards of fluorocarbon
    on there, that way my package of fluorocarbon will last longer. That’s a good cost-effective way of doing
    it, but I don’t use, like, a leader, per se. And then, what I’m also doing here, one of
    the small things to note is, I am using a snap. Not a snap swivel, but a snap. I don’t like to use snap swivels, because
    a swivel will collect weeds and gunk and stuff like that. I just use a snap, and the reason I’m doing
    it is because during the fall when you’re chasing these bass down, you’re gonna be at
    different depths, you’re gonna find a different cover, we’re gonna get into that a minute,
    there’s different ways of fishing it, and so it’s a lot easier to switch out baits when
    you’ve got a snap, instead of having to retie every time you need to change baits. So, that’s the equipment I’m using, I’ll be
    using… By the way, the reel, this is a Helios Air
    Reel. Real nice, it’s fast. It’s got a fast gear ratio, it’s a seven five
    to one gear ratio, and that’s what you need to get it cranked down really quickly down
    to the level it needs to be at, and you’re gonna cover water pretty quickly when you
    get that technique in just a second. But that’s what you need, and a nice smooth
    smooth drag to go in concert with. Everything else you have here, when that fish
    surges and takes off, everything gives including the drag. You don’t want that drag “dut dut dut dut
    dut,” like that, yanking on it, cause that’s just gonna pull that hook free from that fish. Nice smooth drag is what you want. So, that’s the equipment I’m using, now let’s
    go fishing. Keri: Oh nice. Oh, you got the camera. Alrighty then. Glenn: He hit it when it bounced off the rocks. Keri: Uh-oh. Glenn: Yeah. Oh, another bass. Keri: That’s a bass. Glenn: Come here, sweety. Keri: Oh, he swam the other way, he saw the
    net and went under the boat. Glenn: That’s a good fish. Keri: That’s a nice fish. Glenn: So in the fall, what I like to do is
    I break it up into basically two pieces. There’s the first half where it’s late summer
    into early fall, that’s when the water temps get all the way down to the mid 50s or so,
    and then, the latter half of fall, which is from the mid 50 water temperature all the
    way down to the low 40s, the early winter. That’s kinda what I’m talking about, as far
    as the two seasons. Crankbaits… The approach in the what crankbaits I use
    and where I fish them change those two halves. So in the first half, fish are up and moving,
    they’re actively feeding, they’re chasing down baitfish and so, you need to cover a
    lot of water to find them. You’re not gonna be able to just go from spot
    to spot and get one working real slow like you can flipping a…pitching a jig, for example. You gotta go chase these fish down and find
    ’em. So what I tend to do is I start, kinda methodical
    approach. I look for bays and coves that have fresh
    water coming into them. The baitfish are looking for oxygen rich water,
    and that fresh flowing water is what brings in that oxygen-rich water. So if a bay or cove doesn’t have fresh water
    moving into it, I skip it and I move to the next one. And I start by working the outside parts of
    that cove with deeper diving crankbaits. I wanna fish the points, the humps, the ridges,
    the ledges, that kinda stuff. Rock piles that are sitting out there in deeper
    water. And for that I use a deeper diving crankbait,
    one that’s got a nice wide wobble. So one that’s got a big bill like this. That’s what I’m fishing. It does this nice sashay, side to side sashay. It’s got a lot of action to it. It’s got some rattle noises to it. And I wanna fish a bait that it goes deeper
    than the area I’m fishing. So if I’m fishing at 10 feet of water, I want
    that crankbait to dive down to 12, 15 feet of water. I want it banging of the rocks, I want it
    digging up silt and all kinds of mud, and making a ruckus. Because crankbait is excellent for calling
    in baitfish from long distances, which is exactly what you need when you’re searching,
    trying to find them. So it makes an excellent search bait. So that’s how I fish the outside portion. Then I move in shallower, and I’m still using
    that crankbait up until it’s too shallow to use. But I’ll throw it at anything that I can,
    any kind of cover that I can find. Be it chunk rock, or docks, or laydowns, that
    sort of stuff, I’ll be fishing that. And I also use a squarebill like this. The squarebill is great for doing that because
    you can bounce it and deflect it off that cover, it’s gonna go off at a odd angle and
    oftentimes that’s what triggers a bite. If it just deflects off cover and bang, a
    fish will hit it with that change of action. Or sometimes when you bang into something,
    what you’ll want to do if you’re using a floating crankbait, let it hit and then pause, and
    let it float up a little bit. It looks like a stunned baitfish that just
    ran into something, is a little disoriented, and that’ll trigger a bite. So those are two different ways, but you want
    it hitting that cover. Two different ways you wanna fish that cover
    is one, just to let it ricochet off, and the other one, to let it pause. And then I’ll fish over the tops of weed beds,
    those vast weed beds in those coves, that I’ll use something like a Booyah One Knocker,
    a lipless crankbait. That’s one of these. One of these right here. This works really good fishing those big weedy
    areas or big flats with lots of stumps and chunk rock in them. And I’ll cover water quickly with it. I’m throwing a half ounce bait now, and I’m
    making a long cast and just burning it back, just under the surface. Getting that reaction strike, getting that
    fish to come up out of the weeds and smack it. You really wanna get that reaction strike,
    so you fish it pretty hard and heavy that time, and you’ll catch a lot of fish doing
    it that way. You can also use that on the outside weed
    lines. You can jig it along the weed lines with that
    bait. Let it fall, and then let it sit along the
    weed line then bring it back up. A lot of times they’ll hit it when it falls,
    so it’s a great way to fish a lipless crankbait this time of year. If I’m not getting bit along those areas,
    then I’ll go out and I’ll fish the main channels, the creek channels in those bays. I wanna fish the inside creek bends that swing
    up closer to the shoreline, or intersect with a point, or a sandbar, or something like that. The inside bend, that’s the shallower part
    of that creek bend, usually, it has some kind of cover on it, chunk rock, stump field, weed
    bed, something like that. That’s where the baitfish can set up on, and
    that’s a great way to take a crankbait and pull it right across the top of it. That One Knocker is really good, because you
    bring it across the weeds, if you get it in the weeds a little bit, then give it a quick
    yank, and yank it up over the top, that change in direction, that sudden movement often triggers
    a bite. So, it’s a really good way of fishing those
    lipless crankbaits this time of year, is just giving a quick yank every once in a while,
    pause, and continue to fish it. If at any point I get a fish, this is where
    it’s hard, because now you’ve been fishing fast, covering lots of water, and now you
    catch a fish. And the first thing that goes in your mind
    is, “Oh, well that’s how I catch fish. So I’m gonna keep doing that.” Don’t. You actually gotta pull the ripcord. Let that parachute fly out, slow down, and
    now methodically cover that area. Because you found that school of fish. They school up this time of year in packs
    of 3 to 25 or more bass will be chasing those baitfish. And if you catch one, there’s likely more
    in that immediate area. So you really gotta slow down and methodically
    fish that area. Crisscross it at different angles. I like to throw a buoy or marker out or something
    so I know where I’m at, and just cover everything I can with all the different types of crankbaits
    that I’ve got. The shallow and deeper diver, lipless crankbaits. And I’ll pick up a lot more fish. Now, if I… When the bite dies off after doing that, you’ve
    got a choice. There’s two different things you can do. If, say, for example, I’m on a really good
    piece of cover, or piece of structure, whatever it may be, but if it looks real juicy and
    that had a good large concentration of fish, a lot of times what I’ll do is I’ll sit on
    that spot, and I’ll wait for the next school to come by. Because it’s likely they’re gonna set up shop
    on that as well. And I may only have to wait 15, 20 minutes
    for the next school to happen by, and the action picks up again, I catch more fish. I’ve actually won tournaments doing that technique. But, that can be a gamble because it may not
    be as good of a spot as you think it is, and you may be waiting for a long period of time
    and nobody shows up. They don’t wanna come play. So, you may be wasting your time, but it’s
    something worth trying if you’re in a really good spot. But if the bite dies down, and you don’t wanna
    sit on that spot, then pick up sticks and take off down the shoreline again, back to
    fishing aggressively, back to fishing fast, until you connect with that next school of
    fish. Then slow down, methodically work it again. Now, the second part of fall, we fish a little
    bit different. This is when that water’s cooling down, and
    now it’s getting closer to winter. Those fish are gonna pull away from those
    shallow areas. The weeds are dying off. When the weeds die, they’re gonna consume
    oxygen, and like I said before, the baitfish are looking for oxygen-rich water, so they’re
    gonna abandon those areas where weeds are dying, and they’re gonna move out to the deeper
    weeds, to the outside weed line in the deeper water from 10 to 20 feet, 25 feet deep. That’s a good area to target with a crankbait. The one that dives real down deep…deep down
    that area. But I’ll change it a little bit. I’ll go to a tighter wiggling crankbait, narrower
    bill, something like that. This one dives down to, I think, 10 or 12
    feet deep. That’s excellent for fishing along those deeper
    weed lines. A tighter wiggle bait, it doesn’t have as
    much action. It’s not rattling around, making as much movement,
    and that’s kinda… You wanna mimic the activity level of the
    fish. They’re not as aggressive as it gets colder,
    so you wanna get a tighter wiggle, not as much movement. And that really attracts a lot of bites during
    the latter half of the fall. So I’m using that to plum the depths along
    those deeper weed lines, along the deeper structures that move out away from those coves,
    then we’re moving to main lake points, we’re moving to humps, ridges, rock piles, brush
    piles. Those type of things you wanna use. You still wanna bang along the bottom. But sometimes what I’ll do is I’ll do more
    of a pause action now. I’ll start banging stuff, and I’ll pause for
    a second. Look stunned, I’ll a wait a little bit while
    sometimes I uses a suspending type crankbait so it doesn’t float up as much, and that’s
    a really good way of getting those strikes when the fish are lethargic. As a matter of fact, sometimes what I’ll do
    is I’ll go out and I’ll position the boat shallower and I’ll throw out to deeper water,
    and I’ll slowly work it uphill. Slowly. Just let it bang and bounce and just kinda
    work its way slowly uphill. And for that, I’ll usually change colors,
    I’ll use like a crawdad pattern, a crawdad color crankbait, because I want it to look
    more like a crawdad making its way on up the cover. So that is an excellent way of catching, especially
    in the fall, late fall when they’re not aggressively chasing baitfish. As far as colors, as I touched upon it, there’s
    really only two colors you need. One is fire tiger, and that’s what this is. That’s just a fire tiger pattern right there. That works everywhere. That is an excellent color to be throwing. Don’t be fishing crankbaits in the fall without
    fire tiger. You just need that color, and then any kind
    of bait fish color. So, for example, this color here, you know,
    kind of a gray silver. You know, that’s a sexy shad kind of color. Just any kind of shad color. Those are the two colors you need, with the
    exception of a crawdad pattern when you’re fishing it uphill, like I just mentioned. Keri: Another one? Glenn: Yeah, I caught it right off the rock. It hit the rock. Bang. Nice. It ricocheted off the rock. Here we go. Couple other things to note. If it’s windy out, which we get a lot of that
    during the fall, you get those fronts coming through…if it’s windy, make sure you not
    only target those banks and coves in the shoreline that’s getting hit by the wind, because that
    churns up the water, there’s a lot of oxygen there, and it draws in the baitfish to feed. Of course, the bass are gonna follow. But also, when it’s windy, you wanna speed
    up your retrieve, because the fish are gonna be really aggressive. There’s areas in lakes that I fish that are
    void of cover, void of fish, I never catch them there, except when it’s windy. And if the wind’s blowing up in that area,
    man oh man, it’s like every cast. All right? It’s crazy. And you can’t fish it fast enough. There’s no way, you can’t fish the crankbait
    too fast. You just load the boat doing that, so watch
    for that, the windy conditions getting more aggressive. Conversely, if it’s really calm out, it’s
    glass smooth, now you’ll wanna go a much slower retrieve, and be a little more methodical
    in your approach to catch those fish. So, a couple ways to adjust your retrieve
    based on the weather conditions. But that’s basically how I fish crankbaits
    during the fall. I hope that helps. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    How To Set The Hook On A Jig (This Works!) | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    How To Set The Hook On A Jig (This Works!) | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020


    Hey folks, Glenn May here with BassResource.com,
    and today I wanna talk about setting the hook on a jig. Have you ever done that? You set the hook really hard. You think you’ve got a great hookset, boom,
    you set it, and you pull the fish in, you get him close to the boat, and then, boop,
    he pops out. But what happened? How did that happen? It’s a got a good hook on here. You had a really solid hookset, this only
    just came out. Well, it’s in the hookset, guys. It really is. You can really increase your percentage if
    you have a better hookset. Now, what I mean by that is you don’t, like,
    whack, hit it really hard. There’s a difference. Here’s the deal. Especially true with a football head jig like
    this one. Let me tell you what happens. That’s a big blunt object. When the fish grabs it, he closes his mouth
    right around it, just like so. Right? He closes it. This acts like a battering ram. They close their mouth really tight. They don’t want…whatever they just caught,
    they don’t want it to get away, so the jaw is clamped down really tight. What’s happening is that jig head is buttoned
    up against his mouth, it’s not popping loose. Because what happens… A lot of guys do this, you throw out there,
    you see the line start to move, you reel down, and then you see it’s…yeah, that now your
    line is tight and you see it moving, and you set it. Well, what you’ve done is you’ve tightened
    up that jig head right up against his mouth, right up against it. You set the hook, well, the fish’s mouth is
    real tight, it’s got nowhere to go. You just move the fish. The hook never penetrates, especially with
    a football head jig, it never touches inside his mouth. It didn’t move. It didn’t budge. There’s nothing to hookset on. Until that fish, you know, will fight you
    all the way to the boat until he opens his mouth, and then out, comes the jig. That’s what happens. So, how do we prevent that from happening? Well, it’s in the hookset. What you do is when you cast out there and
    you see your line twitch, jump, whatever, you see your line starts to swim off, don’t
    reel down and feel tight. You’ve seen it, you didn’t cause that, something
    else did. Guess what? It’s a fish. So you don’t need to check. Reel down to get the rod down in the hookset
    position, but just before you get all the way down to set the hook, stop reeling and
    drop the rod a little bit further, and then set the hook. Here, what you do is you throw in a little
    bit of slack in the line. Think about it like a rope. Take a rope, and you whip it, and you throw
    that little bit slack in there. Or a garden hose, you do that, something like
    that. It’s really, really quick, you’re not taking
    the line and you’re giving him slack and let him swim off. You’re reeling down to get your rod in the
    right position. Stop reeling, drop the rod down and set. It’s very, very quick. It’s an instant. And that little bit of slack, what that is
    doing is it does two things. First of all, you’re not reeling the jig up
    to the roof of his mouth, so there’s room for it to move. But then second, when you do set the hook,
    you’re getting the rod, the speed of that rod tip up, getting it moving before it connects
    with the line. And when it does, it pops it. It’s going for velocity, it pops it so hard
    that it’s gonna knock that jig head through his mouth, through his lips. And what follows behind it? The hook. Now, you got a solid hookset. I swear to you, guys, I do it this way, and
    my hooks bury up to…not to the barb, but to the bend of the hook. Almost everytime, I bury it to the bend of
    the hook with this hookset. Okay? Give it a go, give it a try. Remember that. Two things, don’t reel down and get a tight
    line on it, and second, reel down and get your rod to the right position, drop it a
    little bit more, and pop ’em. And I guarantee you, you’re gonna catch a
    lot more fish. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    Gary Yamamoto Interview | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Gary Yamamoto Interview | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020


    Glenn: Hey folks, Glenn May with BassResource.com
    and you’ll never guess who I’m with. You all know Yamamoto baits, you’ve heard
    of the Senko. I’m with the man, Gary Yamamoto. This is the guy who started it all. Thanks for being with us today, Gary. Gary: Oh, you’re very welcome, it’s a pleasure
    to be on your show and maybe we can show or teach something or show somebody something
    about what we’ve done. Glenn: Well you guys have done a lot. You’ve been around for a long, long time. Tell me a little bit about how you got started. Gary: Well, the basic start was that I was
    at Lake Powell, and fishing on weekends and I started throwing this little grub, and Mister
    Twister was probably the only grub available. And they had really three colors: black, white
    and chartreuse. And so I called Gene Larew at that time and
    I said, “Hey, can you make me different colors of bait?” And Gene’s happy as can be, “Yeah, I can make
    you anything you want! And you only have to buy 5,000 of each color.” I said, “Are you kidding me?” But as the story goes, I was stupid enough
    to buy 25,000 grubs, 5 different colors, but that was the start of my business. I had to sell it because I bought so many,
    and I sold it at my campground store, and I sold it out west, and probably fortune was
    in it because Japan was just getting started into bass fishing. And they were looking at the western magazines
    and my advertisement they saw and they contacted me and wanted to take my baits to Japan. Glenn: Now about what year was this? Right around what time? Gary: 1983 I believe, ’83, ’84. And then I had a buddy that was fishing with
    me and he says, “You know, if we welded this skirt onto the grub, it’ll make it shine better,
    or more attractive.” So that’s how the Hula Grub started. So I was buying products from Gene Larew,
    and I was buying products from Twin Tees. And all of a sudden Twin Tees is going out
    of business, bankruptcy. “Oh my goodness.” I just got started, you know? So I had to buy that company. And once I bought Twin Tees, I got the full
    line of bass fishing products, from spinner baits, buzz baits, all kinds of worms and
    what have you, and the manufacturing capability. And so I moved. I was driving from Page, Arizona to Los Angeles
    every week to go to work at the plant. And I said, “This is not gonna do.” Glenn: That’s a long drive! Gary: So I moved it to Page, and when I started
    off I rented two rental garage units, storage units, and built that as my factory. And then as things went on I bought another
    building and then it grew some more, so I had to buy a bigger building. So now we’ve got a pretty large facility. Glenn: Now I’ve been fishing since I was a
    kid out west, so I was using Yamamoto products before they really became huge out in the
    market. And I remember some of those products, I actually
    used some of those, especially when finesse fishing first started coming out, split shot
    in particular. It was a huge deal to always have a grub on
    the back. But then, right about in the early 90’s, out
    came this bait that looked like nothing. It was just this stick. And we were expected to fish this thing. I’m like, “C’mon, this can’t catch fish, it
    doesn’t have any appendages, it has no action, how can a fish want this?” But my buddy, I was in a tournament, he had
    a bag of it, I didn’t, and he kicked my butt while fishing it. I’m like, “What are these things?” He goes, “This is the Senko, you gotta have
    this.” So, and I did and it’s turned out to be, it
    wasn’t a flash in the pan kind of deal, this has been a phenom. People…every bass angler now has tried a
    Senko, they’ve all used it, and many of them use it consistently every day. But the design, the idea behind it, that’s
    what’s really fascinating. Tell me a little bit about where the idea
    came from, how you came up with the Senko. Gary: Well the Senko was my effort to emulate
    the Slug-Go. I was in Florida and people cast that Slug-Go
    and jerk it around and we’d get hit. But it was really difficult to catch the fish
    on it because it was so hard, and so I said I wanted something that would be soft and
    my plastic that I could jerk around. So it was designed as a jerkbait. And it works. But then a buddy of mine says, all you have
    to do is cast it and let it sit and they’ll come and eat it. You can’t be… So the next tournament I fished was at Toledo
    Bend, and I saw a bed and a bass on it. I said, “All right, I’m gonna get him,” and
    so I cast and I missed the bed by four feet. I said, “Oh my goodness, what are you gonna
    do?” The bait fell down, hit the side of his bed,
    not even in his bed, and I saw that fish come out, eat it, or pick it up, and go back to
    his bed. Hey this is something else. And no other bait will do that. So that’s where I got my confidence in it,
    and now there is a… I guess a bass angler doesn’t have a Senko
    in his tackle box he’s really hasn’t fished very much at all. Glenn: Right. And there’s so many ways to fish it now. Wacky rig is probably the most popular and
    well-known, but you can drop shot it, you can put it behind a split shot, you can put
    it on a jig head, there’s so many different ways. You can put it on a trailer on some baits,
    I mean it’s like the more you experiment with it, the more ways you find bass really are
    attracted to it. It’s become an extremely popular bait. But you’re not stopping there. You have more products that are coming out
    now, so tell me a little bit about what’s coming out pretty soon for the consumer from
    Yamamoto. Gary: Well really I’m not too much involved
    anymore with the new stuff. I have a time just trying to keep my own head
    and designs going, but I play around with the jig heads, and I spend quite a bit of
    time in saltwater, so I’ve played with the speckle trout and the red fish, and it doesn’t
    matter whether it’s a red fish or a bass, they’ll eat those plastic baits. And so that’s what I play around with and
    I have a big staff of people that are trying to design new things so they still think “new
    products, new sales.” But the basis of all this company is that
    we sell the Hula Grub, which was one of my starting baits, the grub, the Senko. They’re still the primary part of my business. And it’s amazing, I travel all over and you
    see people saying, “Oh, I use the Senko and I love it.” And then the other guy down the way says,
    “The Hula Grub caught me all these fish.” And so I guess I’m fortunate my lures are
    not a come-and-go type of deal, they are for hopefully eternity, you know? Glenn: Well, Gary, you sure have established
    that you’re…the Yamamoto brand in the bass fishing community and other types of species
    that are out there, I don’t think it’s going anywhere soon. It’s still some of the most popular baits
    that are out there. I just want to thank you for making such an
    impact on the industry, and helping anglers out there catch fish and enjoy the sport more
    and more, making it so easy. You’ve done a great job. Thank you so much for being with us today. Guys, Gary Yamamoto. You gotta use his products, you have to, because
    if you’re not, then you’re not catching fish.