Browsing Tag: fishing tips

    Early Spring Bass Fishing: 3 Tips You Need To Know! | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Early Spring Bass Fishing: 3 Tips You Need To Know! | Bass Fishing

    February 20, 2020


    Early Spring Bass Fishing: 3 Tips You Need
    To Know! Glenn: Holy crap, I can’t believe that. Keri: Fish! Fish! Look at that little guy, little buckaroo. Fish! Glenn: Yeah. Even after a cold front. Keri: He was hungry. He said he was hungry, little buck. Glenn: Yeah, I’ll take it. Keri: Yeah. Glenn: Hey, folks. Glenn May here with BassResource.com. And today, I wanna talk about early spring
    fishing and how to catch them. Early spring is a great time to be out fishing
    because now the fish are moving up from the winter, where the deep spots where they’ve
    been all winter long. Now they’re starting to move out and getting
    ready to feed, getting…in preparation for the spawn. So, that’s a great time to get out there and
    start whacking them. But it can be difficult to find them sometimes
    because, you know, you’ve got fronts that are coming through. The fish are still deep in a lot of places. It takes a while to figure out where they’re
    moving up shallow. So, today I wanna go through, kind of, a methodology
    in how to find them, and then what baits to use, and the approach to catch these early-spring
    bass. So, let’s start off with finding the warm
    water. You wanna find the warmest water in the lake. Now, it’s funny. Back in the ’70s and the ’80s, when I was
    watching Orlando Wilson, and Bill Dance, Roland Martin, and watching Bassmasters and In-Fishermen,
    reading all these magazines, seems like they always said, “Go to the northwest corner of
    the lake because it warms up first.” I don’t know about you, but that’s never worked
    out for me. I don’t know what lakes they’re fishing, where
    that occurred, and maybe it works for them, and maybe it happens to work for you in your
    neck of the woods, but from my experience, northwest corner of the lake doesn’t seem
    to warm up faster than everywhere else. So, I’ve had to learn a different way to find
    the warmest water in the lake. So, let me walk you through this. This is a pro tip stuff because this is the
    stuff I’ve learned on my own over the decades. So, first off, what you wanna do is look at
    a lake map and find the little shallow coves, the shallow bays, not way deep, big, huge
    flats and the backs of flats. That’s not what we’re looking for right now. The bass aren’t gonna be moving up that shallow,
    but areas that are relatively shallow compared to the rest of the lake. There’s less volume of water in these areas,
    and if they’re protected like a little bay or cove from the wind, they all warm up faster
    just because there’s less volume to warm up. Especially if you get some sunny days, it’ll
    start to warm up a little bit. So, those are the main areas I start to target. But there’s more to it than that. Another way that I find these warmer areas
    is I pay attention to the weather. And it may not be from what you’re thinking. I’m not going where you’re thinking. I mean, sure enough, if you get several days
    of warm weather, sunny days, it’s gonna warm the lake up overall, and those shallow areas
    I just mentioned will warm up a little bit quicker. There’s truth to that. However, what I’m looking for is very specific
    things. I want daytime and night time temps to be
    five or more degrees warmer for longer than three days, stretch longer than three days,
    but I want it to be five or more degrees warmer than what it’s been for the past several weeks. So, I wanna see that warming stretch, and
    I wanna see it combined with rain, the more rain, the better. Nothing warms up a lake faster than warm rain. But there’s more to it than that because that’s
    just, like, the sun, again, warming up the entire lake. What I’d like to focus on during those times,
    if I get that stretch of three or more days with warmer weather and with rain, is I like
    to target tributaries, creeks, anywhere where water’s coming into the lake. The areas around that will be warmer due to
    that warmer water coming in. And you can have little hot spots all over
    the lake, even though it may not be a flat or a cove, but just that area will be a little
    bit warmer than the rest of the lake. And that can turn on the whole ecosystem,
    and the bass could be in there feeding on them. Now, there’s even more to it than that. I also like to target culverts. Where there’s maybe street runoff, or maybe
    some other streams where they’ve built culverts. A lot of times, these culverts are under the
    water. They’re not marked on maps. They’re sometimes hard to find, but this is
    what you need to do, is learn your lake and figure out where those are because those can
    be real hot spots, real hot spots. And there’s a lake that I fish all the time
    that’s got seven of these in the lake. And what I’ll do is I’ll just run around from
    spot to spot to spot, after we’ve had this long period of rain, and just keep going around,
    just do a milk run. And I can catch fish all day long doing that
    because each section will replenish itself by the time I get back to it. So, that’s how you find the warmest water
    in the lake. But let’s move on a little bit to the baits
    you wanna use. Now, the key thing during this time of year
    is that the baitfish that the bass are feeding on are gonna be at the largest they’ve been
    all year long. What you’re looking at is what’s the results
    of the spawns from last spring and last summer, and they’ve had all this time to grow. So, there aren’t any little, small minnows
    and fry going around until maybe the perch spawn and when the temperatures get around
    in the low 50s, mid 50s. But until then, there really isn’t any small
    baitfish around. So I use big baits. I use jigs that have 60 or more strands in
    them. I like to use swim jigs that have big trailers
    on them like Space Monkeys. And then, I like to use 3/4-ounce spinnerbaits
    with trailers on them that have big blades on them. I like to use 1/2-ounce and 3/4-ounce lipless
    crankbait. I mean, you get the idea, right? They’re all larger-sized baits that I’m using
    this time of year because that’s what the bass are accustomed to seeing right now in
    their environment. And that’s what they’re fishing, where they’ll
    bite bigger baits during this time of year. Keri: There you go, little guy, little tiny
    guy. They’re getting smaller. Glenn: Yeah. Well… Don’t do that. Go play. Amazing how a little guy like that can hit
    a worm this big. The other thing to keep in mind during the
    spring is to keep moving. The bass…what they’ll do is, yeah, they’ll
    hit these areas that I just mentioned and they’ll bite in those areas. But they’ll find these little areas that you
    may not be able to find really well on your map that may have some cover, some structure
    on that don’t really show up as well, just a little stretch. It might be a little point that comes out
    where there’s a floating dock on it, or maybe a dock that’s got pilings on it. It might be a little drop with some chunk
    rock on it next to a shallow area. And the bass…you won’t know whether they’re
    on it or not unless you fish it. So, what you need to do is cover a lot of
    water, fish pretty fast and effectively, going down the bank to find these areas. But here’s the key, a lot of these bass are
    in large schools. So when you catch a fish, you need to slow
    down and fish that area thoroughly. And that’s hard to do because we’re used to
    going down the lake. We’d go down the bank, boom, boom, boom, boom,
    suddenly, bang, you catch a fish, and you’re like, “Aha. That’s the key, that’s what I need to do to
    catch fish.” And so you just keep on going down the bank
    at that speed. Well, don’t do that because you just found
    the fish, and you’re gonna go right on by them if you keep doing that. So, drop the Power-Poles, and break out those
    slower-moving baits, and cover the area thoroughly, catching as many fish as you can. And when you feel there really aren’t any
    more to catch, lift the Power-Poles up, move another boat-length or two down the shoreline,
    and drop those Power-Poles and, again, fish it thoroughly until you’re certain that there
    aren’t any more fish to catch in that area. Pick up sticks, pick up speed, head on down
    the shoreline even faster until you catch another fish, and then slow down again, rinse,
    lather, repeat. And that’s the way to go after these early-spring
    bass because they’re not gonna be all up on the shallows everywhere. It’s gonna be in these little pockets or groups. And that’s how you find them. Anyway, that’s the approach I use and the
    way that I find these early-spring bass. I hope those tips work for you. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    Frog Fishing, Moon Phases, Texas Rigs, and More | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Frog Fishing, Moon Phases, Texas Rigs, and More | Bass Fishing

    February 14, 2020


    Glenn: Oh, yeah. Get the camera outta the net. Keri: No. You catch fish. I’ll be happy to get that camera outta the
    net. Glenn: All right. Got yourself a deal. Okay, get the camera outta the net. Keri: Hey, look at that. Wow. Crankbaits it is. It’s gotta be crankbaits, evidently. Glenn: Come here. Oh boy. I know I don’t have you hooked very good. Keri: No you don’t. I did get it out of there. Glenn: Come here. Keri: Nice job. Glenn: All right. And the hook…he just fell right out. Keri: Nice job. Glenn: Square bill. Hey, folks. Glenn May here with BassResource.com, and
    today I’m going to answer some of the questions that have been sent in to us on our Facebook
    channel or on YouTube or on our forums. We get a lot of questions, so I’m going to
    try to get to some of them today and hopefully they’re your questions. Starting with a question about boat launches. “Hey. Do fish spook easily around boat launches? I mean, are they good to fish or are they
    just not there because of all the boat activity?” Yeah. Actually, they can be really good to fish. I’ve caught bass where a boat is leaving a
    boat launch and I’ve cast right behind him in his wake and I’ve caught fish that way. I think what happens is the bass, they just
    get accustomed to their environment and they get used to all that overhead traffic and
    it doesn’t bother them as much anymore. It may at first, but you know, say for example,
    in the springtime when the activity picks up dramatically, but then they get used to
    it. And I think it’s kind of like, if you live
    near a busy highway or road, or maybe near a railroad track in…or for me I used to
    live in right in the flight path of an airport, with the jets going by. The first few nights that you’re there, it’s
    hard to sleep because you’re not accustomed to all that noise. But after a while, you don’t even know it’s
    there. Daytime and nighttime, you just get used to
    that drone in the background. And it really is meaningless. And so you learn to ignore it. And I think that’s what happens with the bass
    around busy boat launches. So don’t ignore them. Cast a line and catch a few fish if you can,
    because I think that, you know, you’re missing out on a great opportunity. Here’s a question about frog baits. “Hey. Why do people trim those skirted legs on frog
    baits?” Yeah. Well, there’s two reasons for that. One of them is a lot of people like to walk
    the dog with a hollow body frog. It’s a great presentation and oftentimes it
    agitates the fish into biting. It can be a real productive way to catch a
    lot more fish is by walking the dog. However, if you’ve got these long strands
    of legs basically behind him, that really inhibits the ability for that bait to walk
    the dog. So cutting them short makes it a lot easier
    to walk the dog. Another thing it does is a lot of times the
    fish what they’ll do is and they blow up on these top water baits, they come up from behind,
    and sometimes all they do is they grab the legs. I’ve had them happen on toads. I’ve actually set the hook on fish, and I
    come back with a legless toad. They just grab the back, they don’t grab where
    the hook is. So by cutting the leg shorter, it presents
    a more compact profile, and it has less chances of the fish short striking them, only grabbing
    the back. Actually, when they’re grabbing, they’re probably
    going to grab right on the hook so you get better hookups that way. There you go. Nice. They’re in here. Keri: Come here you. Glenn is getting a net. Come here, baby. Come here. Come here. Oh, come on Glenn. Come on Glenn. There we go. There we go. He’s got a sore on his tongue. Yeah, he does. Glenn: Okay. Here’s a question I see often on our forums. “How much importance do you put on the moon
    phases?” Well, for me, it is a variable that has an
    impact on bass behavior. It’s just another influence to consider. So what I’ve noticed is, you know, during
    the daytime, for example, where I’m fishing and the the activity level of the birds and
    the wildlife, you see this a lot in the mornings, where it’s they’re really active and guess
    what, you’re catching a lot of fish. And then later on in the day, the bite slows
    down, you don’t catch as many fish and guess what, you know, birds aren’t flying around,
    they’re just floating on the water. The cattle, if you see that or dogs, cats,
    whatever, they’re just laying down, they’re not moving, they’re not very active. And, you know, that’s not by happenstance. You know, there’s something to it that the
    moon phases do affect all living creatures, human beings included, and that has an influence
    on bass behavior. And I’ve seen it happen different days of
    the week and different times of the month. I’ve noticed personally that a lot of the
    larger fish that I’ve caught throughout the years tend to be on or around a new moon. I don’t know exactly why but I’ve noticed
    that keeping my logs that it happens a lot of times around the new moon. So if I’m planning a vacation, for example,
    a fishing vacation, I try to say, “Hey, can I plan that vacation around a new moon?” It might have up my chances of catching larger
    fish. Now, is it…how much of an impact it has
    on it is up to discussion and debate. But I look at it as another influence just
    as I would the weather for the day, as well as the season and the water temperature. You know, just other things to consider when
    you’re out there fishing is what are the moon phases and what’s going on with that and how
    might it affect the bass that day. Here’s a question that was sent to me on Facebook. “Hey, Glenn. I do a lot of night fishing. And I want to know what would be your number
    one lure that you would use for night fishing?” Yeah. That one’s an easy one. For me, it would be a spinnerbait, a black
    spinnerbait with a single Colorado blade specifically. The reason for that is a couple things. First of all, the bait itself being black,
    it presents a better silhouette. All colors kind of turn into just a neutral
    gray color at night, so it doesn’t matter what color, what you want is contrast. So black lure presents the most amount of
    contrast and makes it easier for the bass to see it. The Colorado blade puts out the most amount
    of vibration so it helps the bass locate the lure through the vibrations that it produces. And then finally, a spinnerbait is a fairly
    weedless lure. And let’s face it, when we’re out fishing
    at night, our accuracy isn’t all that good. You land on boat docks, you might land on
    someone’s boat or what have you, and it’s less susceptible to get to snagging on those
    things, first of all, and also under the water, there’s things that you may not see. For example, there’s ropes that are attached
    to docks or chains that anchor a boat…the boat dock in place. Or there’s logs or snags or stumps or other
    things under the water that you may not see at night, and you could get hung up on him
    if you say you’re fishing a crankbait, but a spinnerbait can go over those things and
    not get hung up. So that’s the reason why I pick a black spinnerbait
    with a Colorado blade. Boy, now that, Max…MaxScent did it’s job. He wouldn’t bite it. I had to let it sit there for a while and
    let that do its thing. I finally grabbed it. He kept playing with it and playing with and
    playing with until finally he said, “Yeah, that smells good, I think I’ll eat that.” Look at that. Good job. Yeah. That little belly, he’s been eating. Keri: Nice fish. Glenn: All right. Here’s a question about grub fishing. “I recently started fishing with grubs, but
    I’m having a hard time actually catching fish. My hookup ratio is really poor. I’m fishing four inch grubs with a eighth
    ounce or quarter ounce jig head with a 1/0 hook. Got any suggestions?” Yeah. Listen, I see a red flag in there. You’re fishing the right weights. Eighth ounce to quarter ounce is the right
    weight for a grub. But that hook size is too small. Grubs have a thicker body and a 1/0 hook just
    doesn’t have enough bite there, there’s not enough for the hook sticking out of that grub
    to penetrate the fish’s mouth. Typically what I do is I use a jig head size
    where the hook is going to come out near the tail of the grub. That usually is like a 2/0, sometimes a 3/0,
    but usually a 2/0 hook size. Because a couple things, first of all, when
    it comes out near the tail of the grub, a lot of fish what they do is they on grubs,
    they follow up from behind and they grab it from the back and a lot of times they just
    grab the tail. So the further back that hook is, the better
    chances I have of actually that fish grabbing the hook and getting a good hookup. That’s one. The other thing with those larger hooks is
    they have a better bite. There’s more of that hook that sticking out
    of that grub, and therefore a better bite and you’re going to get a better hookup ratio
    with that larger hook. All right. Here’s a question that I received recently
    from a viewer. “Glenn, I fish a lot of Texas rig worms, but
    I miss a lot of the fish. I’m just not getting hookups. What can I do?” So there’s a lot of reasons that can happen. But I think the primary reason, the biggest
    mistake I see anglers make is they don’t match the hook size or the type of hook with the
    lure that they’re fishing. Now I have a whole video that goes through
    all of this in greater detail that I’ll link at the bottom here. But in a nutshell, you have to have the right
    hook size to begin with. So those larger baits, whether they be, you
    know, six, seven inch worms or you’re using a creature bait that’s got a thicker body,
    those need to have an extra wide gap hook because there’s just too much bait there. Plus you need a larger hook, say a 3/0 hook
    or maybe even a 4/0 hook to be in the right relationship size to the size of the…relative
    to the size of the worm. A little bitty small hook in the very front,
    a lot of times the fish come up from behind, they grab that bait and they see the hook
    and you’re going to come back with half a lure or you just pull it out of the fish’s
    mouth because you get this little bitty hook on there. Plus it doesn’t have a big enough bite. Even if the fish catch grabs in the front,
    there’s too much plastic there that interferes with the hook set, you’re not going to get
    any good penetration in the fish’s mouth. So you need to match the size of the hook
    with the size of the bait. Conversely, if you’re using a small bait,
    don’t use this giant hook on it because it does a couple things. First of all, it often kills the action of
    the bait because it acts as a backbone. And if it runs the whole length of the bait,
    that bait can’t move and flex like it’s supposed to. So it just looks like a dead piece of plastic
    fall in the water which isn’t very very appealing. So you’re not going to get a lot of strikes
    to begin with. But also the weight of it too changes the
    characteristics in the rate of fall. So it just…it’s a mismatch all way around. A lot of times when you’re fishing smaller
    baits too, you’re using lighter line with rods that don’t have as much backbone, it’s
    a lot harder to get a penetration with a larger hook. So matching the size of the hook and the type
    of the hook with the type of bait your fishing is critical to getting great hooks and catching
    more fish. So take a look at that video and you’ll see
    a lot more detail what I mean about that and that’s going to help you out a lot. All right. That’s all the time we have today for all
    those questions. I hope those help. If you have any questions, please shoot them
    to me, get a PM to me on our forums, or ask it right here on YouTube and I’ll try to get
    to them. For more tips and tricks like this visit BassResource.com.

    Techniques Every Kayak Angler Should Know | Kayak Fishing Tips
    Articles, Blog

    Techniques Every Kayak Angler Should Know | Kayak Fishing Tips

    February 13, 2020


    This episode of kayak fishing tales is
    brought to you by the ACA improving the paddle sports experience for over a
    century. learn more at Americancanoe.org One of the great things about kayak
    fishing is that on a very simple level, you can just slip on a life jacket, grab your tackle, and have a great time
    without any prior experience. But, by taking the time to learn proper paddle
    technique, not only will you be able to reach more
    fishing spots but you’ll also be safer on the water because you’ll be more
    prepared to handle any situation that might pop up. And so in this video we’re
    going to look at three key techniques that all kayak anglers should know and
    practice. The first technique we’re going to look
    at is how to re-enter a kayak from the water. Regardless of what type of boat you’re
    paddling it’s going to be a lot easier to re-enter kayak with a friend there to
    help stabilize. You’ll start by grabbing onto the side of
    the kayak and letting your legs float to the surface behind you. Then with the powerful kick of the legs
    and push with your arms to haul your chest onto the kayak, keeping your center
    of gravity as low as possible. You’ll then twist around and settle into
    the seat. For obvious reasons, this is a technique
    that you want to practice in a controlled environment and get
    comfortable performing so that if you ever find yourself in the water unexpectedly you’ll know what to do. The
    second technique that all kayak anglers should know is the draw stroke. Draw
    strokes are used to move your kayak sideways and they’re incredibly useful
    maneuvering strokes for pulling yourself up alongside something. The basic draw involves reaching out to
    the side, planting your blade, and then pulling
    your boat and body sideways towards it. To make the stroke most effective turn your head and upper body to face
    the active blade. Then insert the blade fully into the water with your paddle
    shaft as vertical as you can get it. You’ll then pull your lower hand towards your
    hip while your top hand stays almost stationary acting like a pivot point for
    the stroke. Now just before your blade hits the side
    of your kayak you need to finish the stroke by slicing the blade out of the water
    towards the stern. This is the basic draw stroke technique
    but there are more advanced and powerful draw strokes that you can learn like the
    sculling draw, but that’s a story for a different time. The third technique that all kayaker
    should know is the sweep stroke the sweep stroke is the best way to turn
    your kayak when sitting still and a good way to make course corrections when
    you’re in motion. The forward sweep starts at your toes blade fully immersed with
    your hands and paddle held low to the water unlike the forward stroke which gets
    pulled alongside the kayak. The idea behind a sweep stroke is to
    sweep a wide arching path with your blade as far out to the side of the
    kayak as you can. You’ll keep sweeping the blade around until it approaches the
    stern of your boat, where you’ll slice it out of the water and move on to your
    next stroke. To get the most power for your sweep stroke, sit up right in your
    kayak and watch your active blade throughout the arc, because this forces
    your upper body to rotate during the stroke which gets all your core muscles
    involved. The reverse sweep is exactly what it sounds like – the forward sweep
    but done in reverse. For the reverse sweep stroke turn your upper body and look with your
    eyes as you plant the paddle blade as far back as possible towards the stern
    of your kayak with your blade planted deeply in the water, you’ll then sweep a wide arc all the
    way out to the side of your kayak and up to your toes, keeping your hands low throughout the
    stroke. So there you have it, three paddling
    techniques that all kayak fisherman should know. Needless to say they’re a
    lot more paddling techniques to learn, so subscribe to KayakFishingTales Youtube
    channel to stay tuned for more kayak fishing tips.

    First time Fishing with Ugly Stick GX2 / Giveaway Announcement
    Articles, Blog

    First time Fishing with Ugly Stick GX2 / Giveaway Announcement

    February 10, 2020


    my folks what we’re going to do today is
    there is a story to you see that right there with the tag thinking okay I have
    never used that wrong I bought that rod back in March when I
    was in Tennessee right I went down to Tennessee in March for the Bassmaster
    Classic there at Fort Loudoun in Knoxville when I was down there there is a fellow
    youtuber Billy clay Bowl you know him his pan fish boom there’s based out of
    Knoxville I reached out to him insanity will new collaboration he said yeah come
    on bad we’ll go we’ll go catfishing go out on my boat for catfish
    see how he is here we’ve tied up here on a little blank bar outside of this lake
    we’ve got cuts get Jack and gives her shout out the money the best one of the
    day now I don’t target catfish I haven’t taught you can’t fish since I was a kid
    I was give we used to fish camp finishing we’d fish for what to call
    later size campus you know ten pounds or under we just take it bucket of chicken
    livers and big j-hook or maybe the truffle hooked up chicken livers down
    you really wanted to help jigglers town you take some three I’d like some black
    thread or something thread-like Frank sewing thread sewing needle and thread
    you wrap around chill arrow look all right off he take a something to wait
    the whole chicken they’re feeling old spark plugs what weed uses yellow
    sparkplug we’re pretty good our couple of
    and as usually like a zip code 202 simonec as the old beef here rod 2 of 2
    is the beef years that code above the 33 catfish were a trophy growing up the
    only fish catfishing for food you fish them to have a fish problem I went down
    there I fish alone with Billy you check him out here and plant fish bill when we
    call it blue catfish so blue catfish get blue catfish get abnormally big and now
    these guys they aren’t fishing for fish friends they’re fishing for monsters you
    see you know first couple of guys down there fishing they test a river system
    every time they go out if it ain’t been a 40 or above rain can’t either so
    they’re fishing for 40 50 60 70 80 but now the sport of catfish has changed
    there’s all these different tools and relate some things that you can use
    weights they’re even a even have a lowered now I guess some catfishing
    these demon dragons it’s a fishing lure over the rattle in it looks really looks
    like a spook spook spook with a rattle and they tied on these big weights right
    now they’re throwing these big baits I mean skipjack earrings of the number one
    bait huge for catching big catfish right now ten and twelve foot rods
    I mean choking that thing a country mile my words so the sports changed like
    using a lot bigger gear and you know nobody knows to me I thought we were
    just gonna catfish well when I was in Tennessee this rod then I just mentioned
    this hanging right here I picked up I picked up because I don’t have anything
    beefy enough to handle any big fish like that not not that size I’m you know I’m
    a multi-species angler but I mostly target catfish I do a lot of paying
    fishing there excuse me I’m mostly target bass target bass more than
    anything that’s what I like to catches fast some plants efficient fast from the
    bank the fish I eat are you know yellow perch crappie bluegill your pan fish so
    I don’t know if we do a lot of trout fishing up here trout fishing
    we the Pennsylvanian try efficient is the we live in Pennsylvania trout
    fishing the biggest form of fishing here so I picked up that
    right there that is a ugly stick gx2 made by Shakespeare it retails for
    around $50 I picked it up at Walmart and that was a the Walmart I stopped at that
    was the really the best route they had available wait wait Hey Gosei digging this is what you do it’s
    time you sweat leave somewhere we got lesser baby smut we touch these robots learn by looking
    great though catch catfish watch babies go Circle a lot but Lord King
    whoa behind that door some fool oh the pencil rains on you well I didn’t work out like we’d hoped
    huh me and my youngest it actually went out
    earlier in the week this has happened to me three times three times I went out to
    try that rod three times I got rained on had to get back in the truck
    those are just the brakes I guess haven’t called me a catfish on that rod
    yet so we’re going to maybe rig it up a little bit differently I don’t know
    maybe we’ll even put a chicken liver rig I know how to use so what we got coming
    up is I’m going to be on fishing family Network Monday night July 8th you should
    be watching this Sunday night I think it’s when I’m going to load this so I’m
    gonna be on fishing family Network Monday night July 8 at 8 p.m. as the
    guests over there if you want to swing by and watch and then we’re going to be
    doing our 1000 subscribers and 100 video giveaway we’ve got a lot of items that
    we’re going to give away and we’re gonna give away some blue collar fishing
    apparel got some jacks lures and Marty’s lures and some plastics and everything
    they’ve been sent to me if we’re gonna be giving away so stay tuned for that
    we should launch that giveaway next week hope to see y’all there come on by see
    what you can win hey guys I’m killer blue collar fishing thanks for watching
    everybody

    Cold Water Jig Fishing for Bass | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Cold Water Jig Fishing for Bass | Bass Fishing

    February 4, 2020


    Glenn: That was a pick-up. It just got light. I just lost the weight. There we go. Cold water jig fish. All right. Not a huge one, but I’ll take it in the wintertime. Hey folks, Glenn May with BassResource.com
    and today let’s talk about fishing jigs in deep cold water. I know it can be a little bit of a daunting
    task for some folks, and it’s a little bit of art and a lot of science, so let’s get
    down to it. We’re gonna go through the different pieces
    of gear to use. What rods, reels, line, etc., even the jigs,
    and then talk about really how to find the fish and finally how to catch them because
    there’s some big lunkers out there. And hopefully, after you see this video, you’ll
    be able to go and catch some of them. So let’s start off with the gear. Right here, got a baitcaster here that’s a
    7:3:1 gear ratio. I would recommend something between a 7:1
    and a 7:5, or a 7:1 gear ratio. What seems to happen every time when you catch
    a fish deep, they go Polaris on you. They go straight up and they head for the
    surface, and sometimes they do it really fast, and you need a fast gear ratio to catch up
    to them and keep that line taut as it comes up. So that’s why I use fast gear ratios. The line I’m using, I use Seaguars usually
    InvizX but sometimes AbrazX line, 17 pound fluorocarbon. That I prefer when you’re fishing deep because
    what you’re doing most of the time is you’re fishing rocky structure, or you may have rock
    cover both in the form of boulders or big chunk rock. Sometimes you’ll have some wood down there
    so it’s either a treeline or maybe you’re fishing a stump row, something like that. But rarely are you gonna have vegetation. Braid doesn’t do well on rocks. As a matter of fact, rocks is kinda like Braid’s
    Kryptonite. It actually nicks up and frays the line faster
    and you actually cut it at times. So I don’t use Braid in the situation. AbrazX works great. It’s fluorocarbon so it has that sensitivity. You maintain a better connection to that jig. You’ve got that sensitive straight-line connection
    to it. And it’s also really abrasion resistant against
    all that rocks and stuff that you’re gonna be dragging it across. It holds up really well, so that’s why I use
    AbrazX. Now the jig, I wanna talk a little bit about
    the jig. These jigs come in all kinds of different
    sizes, different shapes, different types. But for fishing deep water what I really prefer
    is a football jig, specifically, well, for several reasons. Football jig, you notice the weight is in
    the front, so it’s weight forward. You’re gonna need that because it will fall
    straight down. It falls vertically. If you’re using that jig that says “Designed
    for vegetation.” It has that cone nose, that bullet head nose,
    it can swirl and spin and dive off to one side, and it won’t get that straight drop
    that you need. Plus it’s not all weight forward. The weight’s distributed a little bit further
    back. So a football jig does the trick there. Plus, the action of this football jig when
    you pull it across the bottom, it has this kind of wobbly side to side action, which
    you’re trying to mimic a crawfish. So, it really looks like a crawdad, kind of
    crawling across the bottom meandering, making it’s way across the bottom. So a football jig does a perfect job of that. If you notice, this is a really big football
    head jig. Look at the size of that head, man. I use between a half ounce and one-ounce size
    jig. This is a three-quarter ounce. Several reasons for that. First of all, in this time of the year in
    fishing deep, the fish aren’t suspended up. They typically aren’t in the mood to chase. You’re looking at colder water temps. I’m talking about temps that are under 50
    degrees, sometimes getting into the low 40s and upper 30s. Bass aren’t gonna race up and chase after
    a jig that’s falling when under those conditions, so a slow fall is not a critical component. Keeping it on the bottom and maintaining contact
    with the bottom is. Especially a lot of times when you have this
    cold-water conditions, you have adverse weather. And when you’re out in these conditions, trying
    to maintain contact in the bottom with a jig is really difficult, especially when it’s
    windy. So, a heavy jig is in tall order for that. You can keep it on the bottom, maintain contact
    and it helps you detect those subtle bites. So, with the trailer here, if you notice,
    it’s a different kind of trailer. Typically what I like to use is a Rage Craw
    trailer. It’s got those flanges on the craws and it
    makes it flippity-flop as it falls and gives it action as you crawl it across the bottom. Cold water situation, crawdads aren’t super
    active. They’re moving really slow and lethargic. That’s what the cold water does to them, so
    a bait that has a lot of movement and action to it looks out of place to the bass. It’s just not natural. So, I’m not using Rage Craws. Instead, I’m using a trailer that has a lot
    less action. It’s more just straight fall. This one happens to be a V&M Cherry Bug trailer,
    but you can also use a Zoom chunk trailer. That’s a dynamite trailer to use, especially
    when you’re fishing cold deep-water jigs. There we go. Keri: Yee-haw. We got a fish. We have a smalley or largey? Glenn: We got a largemouth. Keri: Got a largemouth. A nice largemouth too. Glenn: There we go. Keri: Nice fatty. Glenn: Look at that. Keri: Look at the light color. Glenn: Boy, he is cold. Keri: I bet he is cold. Glenn: Cold water jig fishing. Come on, get the jig out. Look at that. Keri: You could barely see his stripe. Glenn: Yeah. Keri: He’s so light. Glenn: He’s deep. Keri: Nice looking… Glenn: So let’s talk now about how do you
    find these fish? Because, boy, if you just talk deep water
    jigs, well yeah, you could start looking them on the map, find some deep water and just
    start fishing. Maybe you can some points and some humps and
    ridges and just start fishing those and maybe you’ll catch some fish that way. But really, there’s a methodology behind it
    and it begins with map study. What you want to do is look at where are the
    spawning flats and the spawning areas on the lake. If you’re familiar with the lake and you fished
    it for a while, you may even know where those right away. But if you don’t, and even if you still do,
    get the map out. Find those spawning flats and those spawning
    bays, and now start to work your way out to deeper water. Look at those secondary points, those humps,
    those ridges, those ledges, all the way out to the main lake. And even in lakes that aren’t a reservoir. You’re still gonna have those shallow areas
    and deeper areas. Try to find those deeper areas that are nearby,
    relatively nearby to those flats and the spawning areas. That’s what you wanna find. You can find deep spots and ridges all over
    the lake, but the ones that are relatively close to the spawning areas, that’s the key. Bass really have only two things they need
    to do in life, eat and spawn. So if they can find an area where the food
    is nearby where they can go spawn, they don’t have to go very far to spawn and they can
    get the food in their immediate area around that, they’re not gonna go far. That’s an ideal place for them to set up house,
    so that’s what you wanna look at. They’re not gonna roam three or four miles
    unless they have to, so don’t go too far away from those spawning areas. Deep is relative. In my neck of the woods, when it gets to wintertime,
    fish are finding…they’re 45 to 55 feet deep in some lakes. In some reservoirs out west in California,
    you could look in a triple digits. Whereas in Louisiana, 10 to 15 feet is really
    deep in some of those areas, so keep that in mind. But what you’re looking for on the map is
    two things. First of all, you wanna find points. Long tapering points would be great, even
    sharp points even better. You wanna find ridges, humps, sunken islands,
    ledges, channel swings that come up close to the shoreline. Specifically, when you’re looking at the map,
    I want those contour lines to be nice and sharp close together. Almost a black solid line. Those kinda sharp drops, that’s what’s important
    for deep jig fishing, because the fish can move up and down the water calm real easy. And as long as there’s some cover or some
    kinda structure nearby that they can be associated with, boom, you found yourself a hotspot. So I like to find those points. Hopefully, a channel swing that comes by a
    point. Now you’ve got one section that’s really sharp
    drop, the rest of it’s tapering where they can roam on when they need to, that’s the
    kinda stuff I like to look for because it provides a variety of different topographical
    areas for the fish to set-up on. Look at that. Good fish. It’s a good fish, honey. Keri: Gotta watch up with him, he’s heading
    out here. Glenn: He’s coming right out to deep sea. Nice. Keri: He hit it right when it hit the water
    up there right at the edge. Glenn: He was right there. Believe it or not, in this cold water. Do you want me to grab it for you? Keri: Yeah. Can you get the net? Please? Glenn: Net coming up. Keri: Hurry, hurry, hurry. He is not happy. Glenn: Well that works. Keri: Well that does work. Look at that. Wow, he’s a nice one. Glenn: That’s a good fish. Good fish. Keri: Nice. Hit it right when it hit the water right at
    the end. Glenn: Yeah, I saw where you cast. Keri: Oh, he’s heavy. Glenn: Oh yeah. He’s a good one. Keri: He’s got some weight to him too. Hi guy. Got you right in the nose. You are cold. Take a picture. Glenn: Cold water fishing. So, find those areas and mark them. Put them on your GPS. Get out there. And what I like to do is I like to go over
    the top of them and scan them as long as they’re deeper than 20 feet deep, because I don’t
    want to spook them when bringing a boat over them. I’ll scan over that and I’m looking for bait
    fish or any kind of bait fish activity anywhere in the lake, and I try to get an idea of where
    that bait fish is holding on. Say for example, they’re positioned in 30
    feet of water. Now, I look on that map and I look for all
    the different places I’ve marked that intersect with 30 feet, those are the spots I’m gonna
    check first, or say it’s 40 feet, 50 feet, whatever it is. See, there’s an approach to this than just
    haphazardly fishing in areas that look good. Okay, so a little bit of homework ahead of
    time will help you be more productive on the water. So, once you find those areas and you’ve scanned
    over them and you’ve taken a look, maybe you can find some additional cover on those areas. Say, for example, some stumps or some boulders,
    make sure you mark those because those are spots within a spot that fish could be holed
    up on. Now, let’s get into how to fish it, and this
    is, like, really important because it’s all about catching the fish. So, go up on your piece of structure, you’ve
    got your big jig here. First thing I’d like to do is I position the
    boat out deep and I cast up into shallower water, and what I wanna do is I wanna drag
    the jig over that piece of structure. Drag it. Not hop, skip, jump, make all this movement
    like you normally would when the water temperature is warmer. That’s when the crawdads are more lively. Of course you’re gonna have that kind of action. It’s cold. The water temperature is really cold like
    I mentioned. The crawdads move really lethargic, so the
    only thing you got to do here is keep it on the bottom. Crawl it. Crawl it slowly. I’ll either do that with my reel handle or
    what I really like to do is take my rod and move it with my rod because I can watch the
    rod tip. It gives me an idea of how fast I’m really
    going. If I’m moving it with the reel, you kinda
    have to think in your head how fast it’s moving because you’re just moving line. So I move the rod tip. Plus, as I get the rod tip further out away
    from me to the side, you get more sensitivity. You can feel those real subtle pickups, and
    this is where you really have to focus. Those pickups, what you’re doing is you’re
    presenting a bait that looks vulnerable and that’s not gonna move fast. And it’s also big, so it’s lot of protein. Lots of calories. That is candy for bass. Very opportunistic. They don’t have to rush down, chase it down,
    and hammer it. So, your strikes aren’t gonna be really strong
    because they’re not going after it. They’re just gonna swim up to it and go, and
    they may even stay in place. So your bites are gonna be really soft. Moving the rod to the side, moving with the
    rod, you’ll feel you’re bumping along the rocks. They’re vibrating. You can feel all coming up through the AbrazX. Bump, bump, bump, bump, bump, and then it
    might go to a thud, thud, thud, thud, or it just might get lighter. You’ll just kinda like stop bumping and it’s
    lighter as you’re pulling along, you’re like, “What happened?” Probably a fish picked it up. It’s that subtle. So, pay real close attention to the feel,
    and also what where the line is entering the water. Sometimes all you’ll see is just the line
    doing a little pop or might just start to move off to one side. And if you didn’t do that, something on the
    other end is, so set the hook. So you have to maintain focus, and it’s hard
    to do when it’s cold out. So, you got to really stay in tuned to what
    you’re doing. But drag it over the piece of structure, once
    you do that, multiple casts are key to this technique because a lot of time it’s the angle
    that’s important when you’re deep jig fishing. The piece of structure, you pull it and make
    sure you’re going to some sorta pattern, so you crisscross as you go around it. So, you make a very methodical approach and
    cover it at different angles because sometimes all it takes is getting across that sweet
    spot in the structure and at the correct angle and boom, you’ll pick up a fish. Really? Nice. Keri: Another nice large one. Glenn: Wow, you got the magic touch today. You need the net on that one too? Keri: Yeah, please. Glenn: Come here net. There you are. Keri: Look at me. Look at me. Look at me. I got the magic touch today. All right. Glenn: Cold water fishing. Keri: And this fish is cold. Glenn: Cold water jigs. Keri: Not as big as the last one, but I’ll
    take it. Glenn: Now, once you catch a fish, bring some
    buoys along. Marker buoys, because what I do is I’ll kick
    a marker buoy over the side of the boat. That’s not the position where the fish are. I mark it right next to the boat because now
    I’ve got the angle relative to that structure figured out that’s where I picked up a fish,
    so I wanna replicate that. So mark it. Put the buoy down. Now, you can keep that boat next to that marker
    buoy and keep making casts with that angle with this jig. And a lot of times you won’t be fast and heavy
    action, it’s not like you can catch a fish every single cast. But, you will increase your likelihood of
    catching more fish off that piece of structure now that you figured out what cast you need
    to make. Once you clear out that area and catch a few
    more fish and the bite dies off, then move down and go to the next piece of structure,
    be it a point or a hump or ridge, and just rinse, lather, repeat. With that kinda methodical approach, that
    is going to help you catch a lot more fish. But one of the thing that I want to talk about
    here, besides dragging it, and this is what I talked about before, they want this vertical
    drop because the structure has that real sharp drop. A lot of times what you’re doing is you’re
    pulling it right along, along, along, and then you hit to that drop and it boom. It falls 5, 10, 15 feet, whatever it is. The fish are sometimes gonna be positioned
    right along that edge or right on what I call the knee, right in the bottom where it connects
    to the bottom of the lake. If you’re using a different kinda jig like
    I said that kinda swirls and goes down, what happens is that it’ll swim out and land away
    from that knee, or it’ll pull away from that ledge. Make that cast. Pull up to the edge of that drop, and when
    it starts to drop hit the button and let her freefall. Just peel out some line if you need to. Peel it out. Peel that line, because you want it to fall
    straight down, a vertical drop right along that edge. That’s why that football jig works so well
    because it does fall straight down, but you have to work it too. That vertical drop is critical to keeping
    it in the strike zone. So, that’s how I fish at deep water, in cold
    water. Maintain confidence, keep your focus, and
    by all means, stay warm and have a lot of fun catching a lot of big bass. Hope that helps. For more tips and tricks like that visit

    Reel Questions, Hook Selection, and Fishing Patterns | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Reel Questions, Hook Selection, and Fishing Patterns | Bass Fishing

    January 28, 2020


    Keri: Whoa. Glenn: Whoa. Keri: He missed. Glenn: There he goes. Now he got it. Keri: He came back all the way out of the
    water. Glenn: He came back. He came back and hit it twice. Keri: He came all the way out of the water
    for that. That was awesome. Glenn: He missed it, turned around, and hit
    it again. Keri: Hit it again. Nice looking. Buzz bait fish all day long. Face full of buzz bait. Come here, baby. Oh boy, let me see if I can get you up. I don’t know how I got you hooked. I’m trying. Oh, kiddo. Nice, little guy. He came all the way out of the water. Holy smoke. That just shocked me. Okay, go guy. Go have fun. Evidently I got the fin. Glenn: Hey folks, Glenn May here with BassResource.com. And today, we’re gonna answer some questions
    that were sent in from viewers like you directly to us. And hopefully, we’ll get to your question
    that maybe it’s you that sent in the question, we’ll get to yours. If not, then maybe some questions that you’ve
    probably thought about and you’d like to have some answers to. So, hopefully, we’ll help you out today and
    help you become a better angler. Starting with this one, Glenn, I noticed a
    lot of higher quality reels have more ball bearings. Why is that? Well, that’s a really good question. There’s, you know, because of all the marketing
    with all the reels out there, I think a lot of anglers have attributed having more ball
    bearings means you can cast longer distances with your reel. And that simply isn’t the case per se. I mean, that’s not why the bearings are there. Maybe a tertiary benefit to some reels, but
    the real reasons why you want more ball bearings in your reel is because they support the gears
    and the spool in your reel during fighting, when you’re fighting the fish, so under load. They support that and prevent it from twisting
    and twerking, which can bind up everything while you’re fighting a fish. So, that’s why you have the ball bearings. Better reels or higher quality reels tend
    to have more ball bearings to smooth that out in your fight, it’s a lot easier. It helps with casting, yes, but it’s primarily
    for that. Plus, you’ll also notice, it’s kind of an
    earmark. You know, if a baitcaster has more ball bearings,
    it’s usually a better quality reel, so the frame is usually better quality components
    and it’s not gonna twist as much either. With those ball bearings, because of the support
    they give to the internal workings of that, it’s gonna make the baitcaster last a lot
    longer, protecting your investment. So, there’s a lot of good characteristics
    and reasons why you will wanna seek out a reel that has more ball bearings. Okay, here’s a question about hooks. I’m having a hard time finding the right hook
    for creature baits, please help me. Yeah, that’s a good question. You know, there’s a lot of different hooks
    out on the market and they all have different purposes. I’ve got a video that I’m gonna link here
    at the bottom of this video that really goes into the different types of hooks and how
    to use them. But at a high level, specifically with creature
    baits, creature baits are usually thicker body baits, and so your typical straight shank
    hook doesn’t have enough of a bite in it. You know the gap between the hook and the
    shank is not a whole lot, so most of that area is going to be taken up by the thickness
    of the bait, leaving very little behind for the hook to actually penetrate in the fish’s
    mouth. So, I think, really, that’s what the question
    is about, is like how do I get better hook sets? I’m losing fish on creature baits. So, what you need is one that’s got a bigger
    bite. So, an extra wide gap hook is designed for
    those thicker body baits. So, that’s the first thing, use an extra wide
    gap hook. That way, there’s more of the hook exposed
    to get into the fish’s mouth and the body of the bait won’t get as much in the way. But also, you wanna find the ones that have
    that little peg right on the hook shank to help prevent the creature bait from sliding
    down the hook on the hook set. That’s a big problem sometimes. You set that hook and that bait slides down
    the hook and balls up near the hook point and you’re back to the same problem, that
    hook really doesn’t penetrate in the fish’s mouth. So, having that little barb up there on the
    shank of the hook helps prevent that bait from sliding down the hook. So, extra wide gap hook with a barb, that’s
    what you need. Glenn: Ooh, come on. Okay, you wanna come over here? Give me your face. The longer you do this… There you go. Whoa. Boy, he came all the way on the other side
    of the boat but there you go. Jig right in the roof of the mouth. Look at that, right at the top. Pulling to the side beause of the braid. but right there on the top of the mouth. That was a good fight. Good fish. You know, that bite there was what I was describing
    before, is the line just swam off, never felt the bite. Just swam right off. Well, I didn’t do that. So I set the hook. That’s what you get. Glenn: All right, here’s a question about
    spinning reels. How important is it to keep your reel filled? Yeah, spinning reels, it’s really important
    because if you let that reel, the line get down below, say, 80% capacity, what happens
    is the line starts to slap against the rim, the outer spool of the spinning reel, and
    that decreases casting distance and it also impedes and decreases your ability to make
    accurate casts. So, the less line that’s on there, the worst
    that condition gets. In addition, if you have, say, 70% line or
    even lower, it actually changes your gear ratio, and it takes more turns per handle
    to reel that lure in. Now, if you’ve got that line really low, then
    the difference between a long cast and when it’s all the way up, it’s magnified. You can be reeling at the exact same speed,
    but it’ll be really slow at the end of that cast, and it’ll speed up the whole way back
    to you even though you’re reeling the same exact speed. Keeping that reel filled from, you know, 80%,
    85% on up will prevent all those problems from happening. Here’s a question about backlashes. Hey, Glenn, years ago, you showed us how to
    remove backlashes. That was a pretty cool thing. Can you walk us through that again? Yeah. So, here’s the deal. When you get a really nasty backlash, the
    first thing you do is do nothing, okay? Stop and think, don’t start picking at it. Just don’t touch it. What you need to do is crank down your drag
    all the way down. Now, put your thumb firmly on the spool, press
    down on that firmly and crank, you know, with your reel handle. What you’re gonna do is you’re gonna feel
    the line slipping underneath your thumb. You’re actually gonna push it back the direction
    that it came in, and you’re gonna reverse the direction of those loops. And that will actually help you remove those
    backlashes a lot easier. Keri: That’s a bigger fish. It’s over here. Glenn. Go. There you go. Keri: Think I got him pretty good. Yeah, nice fish. Better than the ones I’ve caught all day. He wants to just swim to the camera. Oh, I’m …drag…my reel came undone. Come here, dude. Come here. That was just a happenstance cast. You weren’t going nowhere. And I had you weirdly hooked, but I had you
    hooked. Glenn: Okay, here’s a question about patterning
    fish. Glenn, at certain times of the year, I notice
    that there’s a lot of different patterns occurring at the same time on a lake. Why is that? And I really like this question. This really makes a lot of sense. Yeah, it’s true. Sometimes, at certain tournaments, you’ll
    see the top five were fishing entirely different ways, different lures, different techniques,
    but they all made it in the top five. It’s not like one prevalent pattern existed. A lot of times what happens is the bait fish,
    when they move up shallow, they scatter. And they scatter, you know, everywhere on
    the lake, and the lake offers, oftentimes, a lot of different cover and different structure. You’ve got docks, you’ve got logs, you have
    stumps, rocks, boulders, weeds, lily pads, all kinds of stuff that the bait fish will
    go into, and of course, the bass will follow. Well, each of that type of cover and structure
    requires different techniques to effectively fish them. So, that’s why you’ll see many different patterns
    occurring on a lake during certain times of the year. So, that’s all the time we have today to answer
    your questions. I hope I got to some of them and hopefully
    helped you out a lot. If you have any questions, please email me
    here at this address and I’ll get to them as soon as I can. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    The All-Terrain Tube Bait! | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    The All-Terrain Tube Bait! | Bass Fishing

    January 27, 2020


    Hey, folks. Glenn May here at BassResource.com. And if you’ve watched my videos for a while
    now, you know that I don’t like to have one-trick pony tackle in my boat. Now, what I mean by that, the thing is say,
    for example, O-rings for wacky rigging or specialty jig hooks, things like that that
    just take up space. Certain specialty weights, specialty type
    of tackle that you can only use when you’re doing a certain kind of fishing, for the most
    part, I don’t like. I like versatility. I like to make things work for a variety of
    things, for me. That way it’s more useful and I’m not carrying
    a whole bunch of stuff in the boat. So, what I want to talk to you a little bit
    about is what I used to have for two baits, this right here. What I used to do…there’s a type of slider
    weight that you can get, that weight that you put inside of this that gives it an internal
    weight. The problem is that it’s a specialty weight. You only got one use for it and it takes up
    weight and space in my tackle box. Well, one day, I was putting them away, and
    my wife saw this and I’m not gonna say she’s the originator of this idea but it’s a brilliant
    idea. But she was looking at the drop shot weight,
    that’s one of these right here, a little drop shot weight. She was looking at that and said, “You know
    what? I think I got an idea. Why don’t we put that on the inside of the
    tube?” Well, I thought about it and this is what
    we came up with. So, I got a… This is a hook. This is a high-performance hook. This has got a wire clip on here that holds
    the bait in place. I got a link to it in the bottom of the description
    so you know what this is. Well, what you wanna do is there’s a little
    opening in here and you want that hook to go right through. Well, the problem when you first get these
    out of the package is it’s hard to get them to get in there, it’s very tight. So, once you get them in there what you first
    wanna do is pull them apart. I’m literally pulling like that. Now, when you do that the hole…it’s hard
    to tell but it’s a little bit bigger. A little bit bigger and that’s all you need. Now, the hook can go in here really easy. See, I’m not forcing it. Now, it just slides right in, okay? That’s what you needed to do. Pull it apart more if you need to but that
    opens it up just a little bit. Now, what I do is I take a little bit of scent
    here, it’s a gel scent. I just put a little bit on just for good measure,
    just a little bit on there. What that does is this gives a little bit
    of lubrication. That way I can fit it in here a lot easier. I just smeared on the inside of this tube
    just like this and I flip it around. So, I’ve got… this is the wire part first
    and put that in here and now that lubrication makes it really easy. I just stick it all the way up. Now, it’s at the very end of it. Now, you need to thread the hook through that
    hole that we made. Hole is right here. First thing you wanna look at is how is this
    gonna sit on a bait. It’s gonna sit like this. Notice the shank, the angle of the shank. Your hook point has got to go in at that angle. That’s critical to making this work right,
    which is perfect because when you bring your hook pointed like that, it goes right into
    that wire right there. I just felt that. I don’t know if you heard a little click
    when it went in, but…and you bring it through, flip it around here. Now, you’ve got this little wire, bring it
    up past the wire just like so. It’s a tight fit sometimes. There you go. And then you just clap the wire right on the
    shank of the hook. There just like that. See, it holds it in place now. Now, you just need the hook to go right in
    and lay flat on the top just like so. Now, you got yourself a weightless tube bait
    with an internal weight. Now, why do you wanna do that? Why is that important? Well, if you’ve done the other ways of rigging
    them with a jig, with an exposed hook, with a weight in the front or a say, for example,
    a bullet sinker, the problem with that is they tend to get hung up, especially in rocks,
    or wedge into rocks, they’ll wedge into the crooks of branches, weeds, in the little
    V-part of lily pads. They’ll get hung up all the time. When you’ve got a rig like this, now you’ve
    got yourself an all-terrain four-wheel drive vehicle of tube base. You can literally throw this anywhere and
    almost every time it’s gonna come back out. What that means is that now you can go in
    where the bass are hiding and dig them out. You can throw it into thicker cover, into
    thicker bush, go in where the big fish are, get more bites, you’re gonna catch more fish
    and you’re gonna be more successful with tube baits. I hope that helps. For more tips and tricks like this is, visit
    BassResource.com.

    Must-Know Tips For Bass Fishing On Riprap Banks | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Must-Know Tips For Bass Fishing On Riprap Banks | Bass Fishing

    January 26, 2020


    Hey folks! Glenn May here at BassResource.com and today
    I’m out here fishing riprap! Why would you think I want to fish a bunch
    of rocks? Well, let me tell you what. Rocks, riprap, can be productive year-round. It’s a simple fact. The rocks…algae collects on the rocks and
    organic material will fall down in between the cracks and crevices of the rocks. This in turn attracts crawdads, insects, bait
    fish. It’s a buffet for the bass. And it’ll happen year-round, even in the winter
    time. You get a few warm, sunny days, it’ll warm
    up these rocks and that’ll get the whole ecosystem going even if the water temp is in the 40s. Okay, so riprap, if you have it in your lake,
    you gotta fish it. As a matter fact, you can find them anywhere. You can find them in dams like this, or you
    can find them along roadbeds. You can find them…homeowners will use riprap
    to prevent erosion of their property. Even marinas and other areas, you’ll find
    riprap pretty much everywhere. So if you find them, stop and fish them. Definitely. The different ways to fish them, I want to
    get in to that. I’m gonna talk about how to fish them effectively
    and how to find the hot spots within riprap. Before I put my boat into the riprap…a little
    bit of waves here coming in. First of all, how are we gonna fish it? The most effective way, or the most common
    way to fish riprap is with crankbaits, deep diving crank baits. What you want is the crankbait to bounce off
    that riprap. You want it to hit it and ricochet off of
    it. What happens is that when that crankbait hits
    it it, stops momentarily, and then fires off in an odd direction before it slows down back
    to its normal speed. That odd behavior, that erratic behavior,
    that’s often what triggers a bite. See bass, they’re pre-programmed by nature
    to attack injured and disoriented bait fish. And that’s exactly what it mimics when you’re
    bouncing it off the rocks. That’s the primary way of fishing riprap. There’s a couple other baits that work really
    well though. Spinnerbaits, for example. Love fishing spinnerbaits on riprap. And here’s the thing, see I’m…like I said,
    I’m standing in 12 feet of water, sure, throw a spinnerbait in 12 feet of water, that works
    fine, but don’t be swayed by that. Look at this, you can see this riprap here
    has sort of a gradual slope to it. Makes total sense if I’m standing in 12 feet
    of water to fish a spinner bait, but don’t be swayed by that. A lot of riprap that I fish also is just straight
    up and down, almost straight up and down. I’ll be standing this far away from the shoreline,
    but I’ll be standing say in 20 or 30 feet of water. Spinnerbaits still work really well for that
    situation. Here’s why. First of all, I throw the spinnerbait right
    up near the rocks as close as I can. You want to though a short underhand cast,
    nice soft presentation. The reason being is bass, so they’re ambush. They like to ambush bait fish and if you can
    get bait fish near the surface of the water, then they can’t escape. So that’s a place where the bass will want
    to go. Well, if the water, where the water meets
    the shoreline, now you’ve got the surface and a physical barrier, now the bait fish
    are trapped. So even if I’m standing in 20, 30 feet of
    water, if I can get that spinnerbait right up to that intersection, often times the bass
    are there, they’re in 6, 8 feet of water, 6, 8 inches of water, excuse me. I’ll cast up there and I’ll get whacked within
    2 to 3 turns of the handle even though I’m standing in deep water. So don’t be afraid to throw spinnerbaits,
    but you got to get them right up near the rocks. Don’t throw overhand casts, because if you
    hit the rocks you’ll be liable to bust up you’re spinnerbait. Nice, soft underhand cast, that’s the presentation
    you want. Now, line. Let’s talk about line for a second. I like to use Seaguar Tatsu fluorocarbon line
    for those types of baits because it’s abrasion resistant. This bait that…the lines gonna be draped
    over the rocks. It’s gonna get nicked and frayed, but with
    fluorocarbon it’s much more apt to withstand all of that abuse. Even in, you know, monofilament, copolymor
    doesn’t stand up as well. Braid on the other hand, sounds like a great
    choice. I wouldn’t use it. Braid is funny. It’s really strong when you’re throwing it
    in vegetation, throwing it around wood and pilings, that sort of thing. But riprap is braid’s kryptonite. Braid tends to get tore up and shredded by
    the riprap, so it’s not a good choice to use. That’s why I’m using fluorocarbon. It’s strong, sensitive, it’s gonna handle
    the abuse. Other baits that are really good to use on
    riprap, top water. Definitely you want to throw top water, especially
    in the warmer months in the low light conditions. Buzz baits, poppers, you know, anything like
    that. Those are the baits you wanna be throwing
    that can be a heck of a lot of fun. You can have a hay day catching fish off top
    water during those times of the year. Let’s talk a little bit about baits that fall. We’ve talked about horizontal baits. They work really well. The vertical baits, that’s a little bit different. Sometimes the bass, they don’t want those
    horizontal baits, but to fish vertical takes a little bit more patience and work in riprap. The easiest one to throw is like a Senko type
    bait or a Savage Gear Armor tube. Those work really well. They’re weightless, they glide across the
    top of the rocks, they’re not going to get hung up in there. But if you’re fishing something with a weight
    on it, say a jig…Texas rig baits is a good example, with that bullet head sinker. I’m telling you what, man, that’s like Velcro
    to rocks. That bullet head, as soon as it touches the
    rocks, it gets wedged in between those crack and crevices and it’s not coming out. You’re going to get really, really frustrated
    fishing those, you know, darter heads, anything with that kind of cone shaped weight to it. Don’t even bother using those in riprap. Even shaky heads can get stuck in the rocks. But football head jigs, those are a little
    bit better. They don’t get hung up as much, but it depends
    on the type of riprap. They get hung up on more types of riprap than
    the other. I find that in the smaller chunk riprap they
    get hung up a lot more than in the bigger boulders like this. You’re just going to have to experiment. But what works really well? There’s a couple of rigs that work really
    well, with weights on them, that I find that don’t get hung up as much. First off is a split shot rig. Split shot rig, by it’s nature, you’re not
    lifting and dropping it down like the other rigs. So it’s not going to settle down into the
    rocks as much. You actually are gliding that along. You’re moving that bait along the top of the
    rocks. And this weight, you see the shape of it? The weight is cylindrical. and it’s between
    you and the bait. So as you’re bringing it across the rocks,
    it’s actually gliding horizontally across the tops of the rocks. That’s what you want. It’s not going to get hung up as much. It will get hung up, but not as much as some
    of the other rigs. Also, another bait that works really well
    is the tube jig, but specifically if you have the tube rigged like this with the jig inside
    the tube. That’s what you want. That doesn’t get hung up as much. I don’t know exactly why. I really can’t tell you why, I don’t know
    for sure but I’ve fished it a lot in the rocks. It gets hung up every now and then but not
    as much as some of those other rigs. Alright, we’ve talked about some of the baits
    to use, some of the rigs to use, now let’s talk about how to find those hot spots in
    riprap. Look at this! Look at how long this is. This is a long, long stretch of riprap. This is only a piece of it! I’m actually fishing on of the largest man-made
    dams in the U.S. It goes for over 3 1/2 miles long. So how do you find the hot spots in a long
    stretch like that? Well, if you take a look, look see, we’re
    not looking 3 1/2 miles down this stretch. It actually turns at some point. Well, that’s the first thing you wanna look
    for. Look for any sort of anomalies where it bends,
    it turns, little points come out, little curves. Those little stretches, those can be hot spots. Also, you know, this isn’t completely even
    all the way across. They bring in these big dump trucks and drop
    all of these rocks into place. So it’s uneven. There are little small points and pockets
    along the way. Those can be hot spots as well. There will also sometimes be big chunk rocks
    intermixed with little ones. So the big rocks, the bass like to sit up
    on those rocks and ambush the prey that I told you about. So if you find anything like that with big
    rocks in there, definitely you want to fish them. Other spots. Sometimes on riprap, not on this one that
    I’m fishing but in other places that I’ve fished, water is on each side, each side of
    the road. Well, the engineers will put culverts in between. Well those culverts, they act just like little
    highways. The bass will sit up on those and they’ll
    ambush the bait fish coming in and out of those culverts. Think about the bottom, too. The bottom contour, it’s not even. Along riprap, this one gets really deep in
    some spots, up to 100 feet deep, but on other areas it’s shallower where actually, where
    the rocks meet where the bottom is. Watch that. Sometimes you’ll see the different shift from,
    say 8 feet to 6 feet or 9 feet to 4 feet. Those bottom shifts, those can be hot spots
    as well. And on the shallower ones, sometimes weeds
    will grow up right up to to the rocks. Now you’ve got an edge. You’ve got a place where the rock meets the
    bottom where the weeds are at. Nice. Okay, you want to fish that. Especially if you’ve got a contour change
    right in with that. Definitely can be a real hot spot. So, how do you find these things? Well, like for example, the culverts like
    I mentioned. You’re not going to see that under water. But sometimes bank fisherman, what they’ll
    do is they’ll take a can of spray paint and they’ll mark the rocks with spray paint, or
    here there’s a road on the top and sometimes what they’ll do is they’ll mark the inside
    of the guard rail with some spray paint or they’ll stick a stick in the ground with maybe
    a coke bottle of top of it, something to mark it. Look for those things, they’re there for a
    reason. If you’ve never fished a stretch before and
    you see that type of thing, well someone marked it there for a reason, so fish that area. But also you’re just going to have to look
    at your depth finder too. And watch for those changes. What I like to do is this. I’ll go fish a stretch of bank like this,
    and when I see anything like I just mentioned, I’ll mark it on my GPS. Also, whenever I catch a fish, I’ll mark that,
    too. The more I keep fishing that stretch over
    and over, I’ll keep hitting way points, and pretty soon what you’ll see on your GPS is
    these little clusters of way points along long stretches of riprap. Those are gonna be your hot spots. Now I know if I wanna go fishing again I just
    hit those hot spots, and I skip all the unproductive water. That way I know that my bait is always gonna
    be in the productive zone, and that’s especially useful when I’m fishing tournaments. I’m going to be very efficient during that
    day. Anyway, that’s how I approach riprap. That’s the way I find all those hot spots. I hope that helps you. For more tips and tricks
    like this, visit BassResources.com.

    Fishing a Shaky Head Worm Tips | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Fishing a Shaky Head Worm Tips | Bass Fishing

    January 23, 2020


    You know, fishing a shaky head worm is a deadly
    way of catching a lot of fish, pretty much year round. And I want to give you a couple
    tips on how I like to shaky head fish. You know, one of the misconceptions with the
    word shaky head is that you need to shake it the whole time. And yes, I do shake it
    a little bit and pop it along and hop it along. But really, to be honest with you, I don’t
    shake it as much as you think. I really want to drag that bait like I’m doing right now.
    It’s on the bottom, I’m dragging it to me. I’ll stop it, shake it a little bit. But
    then drag it again. I’m not shaking it the entire time. At least I don’t. I like to just move it along. And the reason
    I like to pull it along like that is that I start to feel what’s down there. I start
    to feel a little bit more rocks or maybe if there’s a little bit of grass down there,
    I feel a little mushy feeling. So, I’ll move it along, drag it, drag it,
    drag it, kind of stop it, shake it a little bit. But I’m doing probably more dragging
    than I am shaking. What is a shaky head? A shaky head is basically
    a jig head with a straight tail worm on it. That’s basically what we have right there.
    That’s a standard shaky head. When I fish a shaky head, most of the time,
    the size weight that I like is up to a quarter ounce is about as heavy as I’ll ever fish.
    And three-sixteenths, three-sixteenths and a quarter is what I fish mostly. Now, if I’m
    fishing around docks, and I’m actually trying to skip this bait up underneath the docks
    a lot of times, I’ll fish like an eighth ounce. An eight ounce skips a lot better than the
    three-sixteenths and a quarter. But if I’m just standard casting like we are here going
    down the shoreline, a quarter ounce or a three-sixteenths is really, really good. The other thing I like to do is I like to
    rig it up. For me, I like braid, I like the P-line X-braid. This is 10 pound P-line X-braid,
    very sensitive, low stretch. It’s just a fantastic line. And I’ll match it up with a fluorocarbon
    leader. This is 100% fluorocarbon P-line, 10 pound test. I’ll tie a double uni-knot,
    maybe about a 5, 6 foot piece of leader and rig that up on my favorite little straight
    tailed worm. That’s a little bruiser straight tailed worm, a little watermelon seed color. When I’m shaky head fishing, most of the time,
    I’m fishing in clear water. I like natural colors, your green pumpkins, you watermelons,
    things like that. I don’t fish black and blues too much, unless I’m down in Lake Okeechobee
    or maybe a little bit stained water. But that’s basically my shaky head setup. The other thing is, you don’t have to throw
    it on a spinning rod. I throw a shaky head a lot of times, believe it or not, because
    I feel good with a baitcaster, I like it on a baitcaster. The trick is, when I’m fishing
    on a bait caster, I’ll fish it with straight fluorocarbon, 10 pound test. That’s a little
    quarter ounce head. Smaller little finesse form, that’s about a 4 1/2 inch. The other
    one was about a 6 inch. So 4 1/2 to 6 inch straight tailed worm. And again, the trick is, shaky head, don’t
    shake it the entire time. Make those casts out there and just drag it a little bit and
    shake it, drag it a little bit and shake it. I like to target anywhere from the shoreline
    out to maybe 10 or 15 foot of water. You get too deep it’s hard to fish it that deep. The other little tip I like to do. Now this
    is a really good one here. This will help you catch a lot more fish. On my shaky head
    hooks, okay, I like to take that hook and I like to open it up just a hair. I’ll bend
    it just a little bit. Look at that, I just bent it just a little bit. Now what that does,
    when I put that hook back in there, allows that hook point to be more coming out. If
    it’s flat and if it’s closed in a little bit, it’s not coming out of the worm as much. Opening
    it up just a little bit gets that point at the right angle coming out of that worm so
    you don’t have to set the hook as hard. You’re gonna catch more fish that way. So again, next time you’re out, shaky head
    seems like the thing you need to be doing, fish it, you’ll catch a lot of fish. Again,
    drag it, shake it a little bit, try it on a spinning rod, and don’t be afraid to try
    it on a baitcaster. We’ll see you guys.