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    Winter Bass Fishing Tips to Catch More Bass Now | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Winter Bass Fishing Tips to Catch More Bass Now | Bass Fishing

    January 16, 2020

    Keri: Here, you little feisty thing. Come hither. You are a feisty thing. There you are. You are a feisty one. Not happy at all. That one’s not having that in his mouth. Another little drop shot bass come over. Hey there, little guy. He was, like, almost behind the boat. They’re cold. Glenn: Hey, folks. Glenn May here at and today,
    I want to talk about winter bass fishing strategies. It’s really interesting to me in the wintertime
    because a lot of guys put away their rods and reels for the winter and won’t fish until
    the springtime. And you know, I think that’s a mistake because
    the fish are still biting and a lot of times, the bass, they’re about the biggest they’re
    going to be year-round. So, your chances of catching a trophy fish
    are pretty good. Albeit the bite isn’t super fast, so, you’ve
    got to keep that in mind. But today, I want to talk about this. You really have to have a little bit of different
    approach to wintertime fishing armed with a really good set of knowledge on bass behavior
    during the wintertime to up your odds in catching some of these trophy fish. So, that’s what we’re going to go through
    today. Let’s get into some of the fishing strategies
    and things you need to know about, starting with locating these bass. There’s two main things to focus on during
    the wintertime. That is deeper water and bait fish. For the most part, let’s talk about deeper
    water first. Bass, as a general rule, are deeper during
    the wintertime than they are during, say, the spring and summer. So, the best way to find them is twofold. One is if you’re familiar with the lake and
    you have been successful during pre-spawn fishing or during the fall then you’re pretty
    close already to where the bass are going to be. Just like in pre-spawn where you’re, kind
    of, a step away from the actual spawning flats, take your position where that pre-spawn is
    and take a step back, a little bit deeper. And that’s probably a good starting point
    for wintertime fishing. They’re gonna be a little bit deeper away
    from those pre-spawn areas but not too far away from them, as a general rule. It’s a good starting point. Another way to find them is use your depth
    finder, look around, find that structure. Here you’re looking for underwater humps,
    you’re looking for underwater islands, ridges, long tapering points, those kind of things. Typically I’d start around that 15 to 25-foot
    range. In the neck of the woods I’m in, the dead
    of winter, you’re looking at 50 plus, seriously, 45 to 55-feet water in some bodies I fish
    on is where the bass hang out. So, as a general rule, just back up a little
    bit from those pre-spawn areas and start there to find them. The other thing is find those bait fish. Bass are not gonna wander far from the bait
    fish. So, what I like to do is look around with
    my graph and see if I can’t find balls of bait fish and figure out at what depth are
    they hanging out at, and then I look for that intersection of structure. Say they’re hanging out in 20 feet of water,
    well, I’ll look for those long tapering points, for example, and I’ll start fishing right
    about 20 feet of water and see if I can hook up with any bass that way. Same thing with the ridges and the humps and
    ditches and that sort of thing. So, that’s, as a general rule, a good way
    to start out finding those bass. They’re not gonna wonder far from those bait
    fish. Now, if you’re unfamiliar with the body of
    water, then a good map, a good topographical map combined with the map on your GPS unit,
    if you have a boat, can help you find those areas. Again, you’re looking for those underwater
    structure areas that can intersect at different depth levels where those bait fish might be
    hiding. So, see if you can find those on maps, mark
    them first before you go out fishing so it speeds up your time to find and locate those
    fish. Keri: There you go. That’s much better. Glenn: There we go. Keri: Much better. A little 8-incher. Glenn: He’s a little bit bigger than that. He’s a little bigger than that. Keri: Maybe 10. Glenn: Welcome aboard, big guy. He is cold. Keri: Look at that. He’s cold? Glenn: Cold. You’re cold. Got him right in the cheek. That’ll work. Okay. Let’s talk a little bit about lure selection. It’s actually a lot easier in the wintertime
    to figure out what lures to use because, as a general rule, bass aren’t gonna be hitting
    top-water baits, they’re not gonna be aggressively chasing down fast-moving baits, like crankbaits
    and spinnerbaits. So, that leaves you to slower-moving baits
    and baits that stay or hug on the bottom or stay near the bottom. So, my lure selection choice would start off
    with jigs, two different kinds of jigs. One is your typical, you know, rubber-skirted
    jig, football head jig, because you’re fishing structure not cover for the most part, so
    you’re fishing rocky areas so football head jig is perfect for that, or ball-headed jig,
    but I like to go with football. And with that, you’re imitating a crawdad. And crawdads during the wintertime are a bit
    lethargic, they’re moving slow, they are affected by the winter, the cold water, so they move
    slow. They’re not hopping and jumping up off the
    bottom and moving around so just crawl it on the bottom, just drag it along the bottom. You can do this with your rod, just drag,
    just move your rod and watch your rod tip. Or what I like to do a lot of times is I just
    take the boat and I drift over those structure areas I just talked about, just dragging that
    football jig. I usually go with a little bit heavier jig,
    like a half-ounce jig, sometimes up to a three-quarter ounce if I’m fishing really deep. That just allows me to maintain bottom, contact
    with the bottom. I can really feel if there’s any light pickups
    when the bass grab them. The other kind of lure I like to use is a
    hair jig. Hair jigs do a great job of imitating bait
    fish. And during this time of year, the bait fish,
    more than any other kind of fish in the lake are affected by colder temperatures. The colder it is, the more they struggle to
    stay alive, particularly if you have, like, threadfin shad. If you don’t have that, even the perch and
    gobies, those fish will struggle at times when the water gets really cold, they’ll get
    real lethargic and move slowly because they’re trying to conserve energy. So, a hair jig can really imitate that action. Hair jig, you can either drag it right on
    the bottom and here, you’re trying to make it look like, say, a goby just hanging out,
    just dragging along the bottom or a sculpin. And sculpin don’t have air bladders so they’re
    not gonna lift up off the bottom. So, don’t do that, they won’t look natural. Just drag it along the bottom just like you
    did a jig. You can also use a hair jig when you find
    those balls of bait fish sitting over structure and let that hair jig drop through that bait
    fish down to the bass that are sitting down underneath and it looks just like a little
    bait fish that’s dying and struggling to stay alive and that triggers that predatory instinct
    with the bass and they’re gonna engulf it. So, great bait to use, both on the bottom
    as well as suspended fish during the wintertime. That was a pick-up. It just got light. I just lost the weight. There we go. Cold-water jig fish. All right. Not a huge one, but hey, I’ll take it in the
    wintertime. Another type of bait I like to use are the
    metal blades…metal baits. The metal baits, those are things like spoons
    and also blade baits. Spoons, what they do is they don’t even look
    like anything, you know, in the natural wild, right? But they imitate that dying bait fish action,
    which is what the bass are really keying on. Again, these bait fish are struggling to stay
    alive and a lot of them are dying, so what they do is they, kind of, flutter. They fall. They try to stabilize themselves and dart
    back up and they fall again. And that’s exactly how you fish a spoon, you
    get it down towards the bottom, you jig it up and let it flutter back down on slackline. And that action is what the bass, they’re
    triggered on biting, so a spoon can be very, very effective. Blade baits are a little bit different. They’re smaller. They do look like a bait-fish profile and
    they vibrate a lot. So, those are great. You rip them up off the bottom, again, flutter
    back down, but a lot of times, the bass will hit the blade bait as it comes off the bottom
    versus a spoon when they hit it on the fall. For that reason, I like to also take a blade
    bait and bring it along the bottom contours over structure. Sometimes I’ll take the boat and I’ll put
    it in shallow water, throw it out deeper and bring that blade bait uphill, just crawl on
    the bottom letting it move along just real slowly, it can look, you know, like an innocent
    little bait fish that’s wandered off from its school. Easy target for the bass. So, blade baits and spoons. My next choice would be finesse baits using
    either a split shot or a drop shot rig. These baits are, for example, I will use a
    3-inch minnow-type bait and put it on a drop shot. I’ll use a shorter leader this time of year
    because a lot of times the bass are hanging out right on the bottom so I want to get that
    bait right down near them so I’m using an 8 to 10-inch leader versus, you know, an 18
    to 24-inch leader that I do in the summertime. So, a shorter leader. And I move it nice and slow again. You’re trying to imitate a dying bait fish,
    so they’re not gonna move real fast. So don’t shake the tip really hard and make
    all this movement. You just want to make it nice, and easy, and
    slow. And again, I do the same thing as I do with
    the jigs, I just drag it along the bottom with the rod tip down pointed at the water
    and watch for that bite. Because you’re moving really slow, the bass
    doesn’t have to, you know, chase after it and annihilate it, so a bite is gonna be more
    subtle. Watch for that bite. It’s gonna be very soft. It may just feel like a little spongy feel
    on your drop shot. Another bait I like to use is a 3-inch tube. I’ll put that on a split shot and do the same
    presentation, but here, again, I’m looking for, like, a bait fish or a crawdad that’s
    crawling on the bottom. Same presentation but different bait. And I also like to use finesse worms, 4-inch
    hand-poured finesse worms. I can use them both on a drop shot and a split
    shot. Same presentation. Color-wise, I like to stick with green pumpkin,
    and the browns, the natural colors because the bait’s moving slower, it gives a little
    more time for the bass to examine it so you want it to look natural to them. So, those are the baits I use during the wintertime. Keri: Oh, you’re pulling like you’re mean. Glenn: There you go. That’s a bit better. Keri: Pulling like you’re mean. Glenn: That’s a good fish there. There you go. That’s a largemouth. Keri: Boy, oh, boy. You are not happy with me. Glenn: There we go. That does the trick. Keri: That does the trick, drop shot fish. There we go. There we go. There we go, much better fish. Much better. That’s what we’ve been waiting all day for. Glenn: That’s a good one. Keri: Thank you, dude. Got a little belly on him. Glenn: Yeah. That works. Keri: Got a little fish, drop shotting. Here you go, baby. Thank you for the play. That was fun. Slowly just saunters off. Glenn: One other tip I want to give you for
    bass fishing during the wintertime is use your electronics, really learn how to use
    your electronics. Get it off the auto mode and understand how
    to interpret what those electronics are telling you because a lot of times here, you’re not
    fishing visible structure. You’re not fishing docks or stumps that are
    sticking out of the water or lily pad fields, that sort of stuff where you see it. Here, you gotta use your underwater eyes to
    see that structure, so you need to be able to find and understand the difference between,
    say, chunk rock and gravel or a hard bottom and a soft bottom, besides just the contour
    changes. Really understand what kind of bottom that
    is. And then be able to pick out your lure. A lot of these presentations, such as jigging
    spoons, using blade baits, using drop shot, you know, you’re sitting right over the spot
    in deeper water and you can use your electronics to watch that bait come down through the water
    column. And a lot of times, you can see the bass react
    to it and you can adjust your tactics. It’s almost like sight fishing that you see
    in the springtime. You can watch bass react to your lure and
    change your presentation to get them to bite. If you can really understand your electronics
    and understand what you’re seeing, it’s very similar. It’s like sight fishing. So, take the time to understand your electronics
    because it’s a valuable asset during the wintertime. Armed with these tips, you’re gonna catch
    yourself a big fish during the wintertime. Understand it’s gonna be slow, but when you
    do catch a fish, it’s gonna be a big one. For more tips and tricks like this, visit

    Top 5 Bass Fishing Lures for New Water | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Top 5 Bass Fishing Lures for New Water | Bass Fishing

    January 15, 2020

    Hey, folks. Glenn May here with And, you know, I fish a lot of different lakes
    all over the country. And it’s funny when I fish a brand new lake
    that I haven’t been on before and I need to understand like what’s the structure made
    up of? What’s the bottom contours? What kind of vegetation does it have? What’s the mood of the fish, the water clarity,
    that sort of thing? It’s funny. I usually end up about the same five lures
    every single time. So, today, I want to talk to you about the
    top five lures I use to find fish in any given body of water. Starting with the jig, one of these right
    here. So, if a body of water has crawfish, bluegill
    or shad, fishing the jig is a good choice of lures to start with. You can crawl a jig really slow over rocks,
    over the bottom. You can swim it through the grass, you can
    fish in six inches of water and 60 feet of water. You can fish a jig vertically, you can fish
    it horizontally. Really, there’s not too many lures that cover
    the whole water column as well as a jig. So, it’s always a good choice to have with
    you when you’re fishing a brand new body of water. Now, if a lake has a lot of cover of vegetation
    and it’s not very deep, I’ll go with a lighter, like a 1/4-ounce, a 3/8-ounce skirted jig. If it has a thicker cover, then I’m going
    to have to go up a little bit, go with a 1/2-ounce jig. With the heavier cover, I like to use a heavier
    line like a Seaguar Smackdown 50-pound braid. That way if a fish wraps you up in that heavier
    cover, you’d be able to get them out without them breaking off. But if you’re in that lighter vegetation and
    stuff, you don’t need something as heavy. I can even go down like 15-pound line on something
    like that and not worry about getting stuck or hung up. As far as water clarity, if the water’s clear,
    then go with more natural colors such as green pumpkin or a little bit clear colors, you
    know, the browns, the green hues, that sort of thing. And if it’s stained or muddy, then I will
    go with something like dark colors, with bright accents, something like a black and blue jig
    or a black jig with say, a chartreuse trailer or something like that. I know it sounds weird. It’s like dirty, muddy water and using a dark
    color wouldn’t stand out as well. But actually, it’s a dark silhouette that
    shows up there and that’s what the fish will key on. So that’s what I use, one of the lures that
    I use for finding fish in a brand new body of water. The second lure I use to find fish in lakes
    I’ve never been on before is something like this, a Texas rig plastic. In this case, in case you’re wondering what
    it is, it’s a Rage Tail Space Monkey. But a Texas rig plastic bait is something
    I use to find fish on unfamiliar waters. Well, I think a jig can work 12 months out
    of the year. I do think that a Texas rig plastic in the
    spring and summer actually works better. Now, for me in the spring, that often is a
    weightless or slightly weighted Yum Dinger. Fishing the Senko or Yum Dinger is a dynamite
    way to get shallow skittish fish that are wary of predators or just started moved up
    in the shallows. It’s a great subtle bait to use to catch those
    fish. But a Texas rig worm, lizard, creature or
    a bug bait, it can be equally effective for probing cover. Fishing these lures in bass-holding spots
    like grass, lay-down trees, docks, brush piles, and more can even yield monster fish during
    the spring and summer. The next bait in my arsenal is this, the ChatterBait. The ChatterBait has proven to be an extremely
    versatile bass fishing lure for covering lots of water. It fishes great around grass especially, but
    it can be skipped under docks, it can be fished around flooded timber, flooded bushes, weeds,
    lily pads, all sorts of things. You can fish it fast or you can crawl it at
    a slow pace. You can even dredge it on the bottom, but
    what I found is that it works in dirty water and clear water equally well, which can make
    it better than other lure choices, which is why I use it a lot in these kinds of lakes. Now, sometimes a spinnerbait or a crankbait
    lose their effectiveness if the water gets too clear or the fish get really pressured,
    but it seems bass get conditioned to those lures faster for some reason, I don’t know
    why, but a ChatterBait produces in cold water and warm water equally well and even in pressured
    fish in clear water, plus you can cover a lot of water quickly when you’re searching
    for bass, you’re trying to figure out the lake, you can’t do that fishing really slow. So a ChatterBait is an excellent choice for
    figuring out a lake. All right, the next bait I want to show you
    that I like to use a lot, is one of these, paddle tail swimbait. The paddle tail swimbait is an extremely versatile
    asset to have, especially when you’re fishing shallow or deep water, as well as around covered
    and open water in all four seasons of the year. You can scale the size and depth easily by
    changing the jig heads and paddle tail sizes and you can change… They come in all kinds of colors. So, for these reasons, it’s extremely effective
    at covering water and finding fish. It does lose some of its effectiveness in
    dirty water, but I like it a lot in clear water. It’s a staple for me in the winter as much
    as it is in the summer and I’ve been fishing it and more around things like deep brush
    piles and under around docks and all kinds of deep underwater structure. I mean, it has all kinds of applications that
    we’re still just learning about it. Flooded bushes are one of my favorite pieces
    of cover to fish with this. It’s easy to fish. You just cast it out and use a slow, steady
    retrieve to bring the lure back. There’s a ton of great swimbait fishing options
    available to anglers now. I often use a RageTail swimmer and work it
    up or down on size, depending on how deep on fishing and the type of cover that’s available. The next kind of bait that I like to use when
    fishing these type of waters are top waters such as a frog or a toad. Now, I won’t fish a topwater in the winter,
    but it can really excel at finding fish in large areas in the spring, summer, and fall. I can cover flats, I can fish pockets, I can
    probe points, I can find fish that will not commit to other more subtle presentations. And even I can get fish to rise and show themselves. At least I know where they are at. I usually want the water to be at least in
    the 50s before grabbing a topwater. And usually, I want stained to clear water
    to fish it. So, I won’t rank it quite as high as the versatility
    and some of the other bass lures that I just mentioned. But buzz baits, frogs, and poppers are my
    favorites because they make a lot of commotion. The fish can hone in on them and get it. And so I always have a topwater rigged and
    ready to go when I’m fishing new waters. So, those are the top five baits I use to
    find fish when I’m fishing and a brand new body of water. Now, I know there’s a lot of other baits out
    there that can work better throughout the year at times, for example, lipless crankbaits,
    drop shots, Ned Rigs, things like that, they all have their place and time. But these are the top baits that I use day
    in and day out on different bodies of water that are productive for me. And you got to start somewhere. So, start with those and you can have a lot
    more success. For more tips and tricks like this, visit

    Summer Worm Fishing Tips for Bass Fishing (These Work!) | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Summer Worm Fishing Tips for Bass Fishing (These Work!) | Bass Fishing

    January 15, 2020

    Keri: Is he still on? Glenn: Yeah, he’s got me wrapped. There we
    go. Come here, you. That worm right there. Had a little bit of a backlash, I was picking
    it out and he grabbed it. There we go. That’ll work. Let’s let you go, buddy. Come on. Have
    a nice day. Hey, folks. Glenn May here with
    Today I want to talk to you about fishing plastic worms during the summer. I’m talking
    6-inch, 7-inch ribbon tail worms just like this one here. That’s what we’re talking about.
    The plastic worm has been around since the ’70s and it catches fish year round, but it’s
    especially productive during the summertime. One of the reasons is that you can fish it
    in 6-inches or 60-feet deep, anywhere in between and it fishes in pretty much anything you
    can find in any body of water. Weeds, rocks, docks, pilings, roadbeds, you can fish offshore
    structure like points, humps, sledges, rock piles, all kinds of stuff out there, you know,
    even shallow water, dense cover, dense weeds, lily pads. I can go on and on and on, but
    that’s one of the reasons why this little thing is so productive. You can fish it in everything, plus it doesn’t
    give off any unnatural movement to the bass. It looks natural. It looks like a normal,
    you know… It doesn’t have any telltale signs it’s artificial and because it’s made out
    of a soft plastic, when the fish bite it, it feels normal to them, when they get it
    in their mouth, so it catches a lot of fish. One of the things about summertime is that
    bass can be both shallow and deep. I know the common thought is that, you know, in the
    springtime the fish are all up shallow, they’re up there spawning, and then in the summertime,
    they all abandon the shallows and go deep. That’s not true. Yes, it’s true that there’s
    not as many bass up shallow as they were in the springtime, but not all bass abandoned
    the shallows. Now, it’s also true that bass are deep during
    the summertime and those are hot spots during the summertime. I’d definitely go fish them.
    I just want you to understand that they are also shallow. A lot of times people say, “Oh,
    you know when the water temp gets above 80-degrees, it starts to lose its ability to hold dissolved
    oxygen and the warmer the water is, the less oxygen’s in the water. That means, hey, bass
    abandoned it and they’re not going to be there.” Don’t get hung up on one piece of information
    and think that that’s going to dictate where the bass are going to be. It’s not true. A
    lot of people make that mistake. For example, if you’ve got a lot of weeds, hydrilla, milfoil,
    lily pads, that kind of stuff, those produce oxygen in the summer and you can have oxygen-rich,
    shallow water as a result. Or you have those weeds will get a big canopy
    over the top of them and when that happens, it creates shade underneath, which does several
    things. One of them is that it can cool the water underneath it 5 degrees or more. So,
    even though the temperature gauge on your boat says one thing, it’s a lot cooler underneath
    the canopy of that vegetation and it’s holding more oxygen. In addition with that shade,
    the fish are going to…it gives them more ambush points for bass to feed on prey. Also,
    that type of weeds, that attracts invertebrate, insects, which in turn attract baitfish and
    wherever the baitfish are, that’s where the bass are. So, that’s really the key thing
    during the summertime, is finding the baitfish. Bass will follow them all over the lake in
    different depths during the summertime. So, keep that in mind when you’re trying to
    find them. This is why the worm is such a good lure during this time of year because
    you can fish in both shallow and deep, wherever the bass are and you’re going to be successful.
    So, what I’m going to do today is I’m going to talk to you about the different ways you
    can fish it during the summertime and I’ll start off with two different types of gear.
    I’m thinking, you know, your rigs that you want to use, your equipment. This here is,
    if you don’t have a lot of money, you’re just starting out fishing, this here is the one
    you want to have. What I have right here. This is a 7 foot, medium heavy power fas5-action
    rod. This is your altering vehicle of rods, but it’s especially good for throwing worms.
    Rigged with it, I’ve got the reel here. It’s not a super high-speed reel, you don’t need
    that for this type of fishing, so anything from a six one to a seven three to one ratio
    works just fine. What you’re looking for is a good drag. Anything over say 13, 14 pounds
    of drag because what I like to do is I have wrench it down tight and I set the hook. Once
    I got that fish hooked and then I back off on the drag and I let the drag do its job. But to me, the drag doesn’t come into play
    until after you have the fish hooked, and you’ve got to get a good strong hook set.
    So, I lock it down pretty tight. That’s why I like to have a good strong drag. I don’t
    want it to slip on the hook set. I’m using 15-pound Seaguar InvizX line. It’s abrasion
    resistance. It’s pretty transparent in the water. It’s super, super sensitive and it’s
    universal. You can throw it in anything. You guys might think braid is the answer to everything
    and actually, it’s not. Rocks, for example, is braid’s Kryptonite. Rocks will fray up
    braid and will ruin it quickly. You can break off a lot of fish and rock using braid, not
    so much when you’re using InvizX. InvizX is universal, you can throw it in anything. So, that’s what I use when I’m fishing, especially
    in the summertime,. You don’t know what you’re going to come up against. You need a line
    that you can throw it in anything and not worry about it getting nicked and frayed.
    Tied with it, I’ve got the 6-inch worm and I’m using a 2/0 extra wide gap hook and the
    weight here, this is just a little tungsten. This is a 1/8-ounce tungsten weight with a
    bobber stopper to hold it in place. Now, let me talk about that a little bit. I’m using
    1/8 ounce. That is really, really light. Now, why is that? Look at the body in this thing.
    It’s just slender body, there’s just a ribbon tail on the bottom, and that’s it. If you’re
    used to throwing creature baits, those are thicker bodies, they have appendages on them
    and that slows down the fall. You need a heavier weight to bring that down.
    If you’re used to throwing those, lighten up because this slender profile, it falls
    through the water column a lot faster. So, a lighter weight is necessary and use as light
    as weight as you possibly can get away with. The reason being is in the summertime, a lot
    of the bites come on the fall. So the longer that bait is falling, the more it’s in the
    strike zone, the more chances are you going to get bit. If you have a heavier weight on
    there, it’ll just go right through, the water column hits the bottom and you’ve lost your
    chances of getting bit. So, start off with 1/8 ounce weight, the tungsten weight that
    I’m using here and heavy up as you need to. If you throw in heavier mass cover heavy vegetation,
    you might have to go to a 3/8 ounce, ¼ ounce, something like that. But the lightest you can get away with the
    better. And that’s the reason why I put a bobber stopper on this because I don’t want
    the weight to separate from the bait. The weight is a tool to put the bait where I want
    it to. If you’re throwing it in some light cover or some bushes, you see some submerged
    bushes that I have here. If you throw it in that the weight’s going to go down through
    and it’s going to leave the worm up at the top here and it’s not going to get down to
    where the fish are. So, you’ve got to get that weight so it sticks with the worms. So,
    a bobber stopper works fine. It doesn’t pinch the line. That’s why I don’t use toothpicks
    or anything like that. You don’t want to damage the line. Bobber stoppers are meant for this
    type of application. Use them. [00:08:49]
    [Silence] [00:09:00] Keri: There you go. It might not work. You’re
    in 10 feet. Glenn: [inaudible 00:09:13] Keri: Well, you might as well put them down.
    It’ll catch sooner or later. Nice. Glenn: He’s got a big head. There we go. All
    right. I’ll put him down here. So, that’s how I fish most of the time. Now,
    if I were throwing in some really heavy cover like matted vegetation and thick lily pads,
    hydrilla, for example, milfoil, or I was throwing around a lot of thick bushes, then I’d heavy
    up a bit. Now, I’m going to go to something like a 7.5-foot rod, heavy power, probably
    a fast-action steel rod and I’ll be using braid on that one because that’s not rocks.
    So, I’ll be using braid, probably 50-pound Seaguar Smackdown Braid on it with a strong
    reel, again, at least 15-pound drag if not stronger. Setup’s basically the same but I
    might go a little bit heavier now because I’m throwing a heavier cover. So, there I’m going to be using maybe a 3/8
    ounce weight, maybe even up to 1/2 ounce to get it into those weeds, get in the pockets.
    That’s what you’re looking for. Get it in those pockets and let it fall down in there.
    So, a little bit heavier weight is probably necessary in those cases. All right, so that’s
    the setup. That’s how I rig it. And now, I want to tell you how to fish it. Keri: That’s a bigger fish. It’s over here. Glenn: There you go. There you go. That’s
    a good one. You want me to grab him or you got him? Keri: I think I got him pretty good. Glenn: Oh, yeah, you do. Keri: Yeah. Nice fish, better than the ones
    I’ve caught all day. He wants to just swim to the camera. Glenn: Reel him in. Keri: My reel came undone. Come here, dude.
    Come here. That was just a happenstance cast. Yeah, you weren’t going nowhere. And I had
    you weirdly hooked, but I had you hooked. Glenn: Oh, good. All right. So, let’s get into the different
    types of ways I fish with this worm during the summertime. Now, these techniques work
    whether I’m fishing deep or fishing shallow, just so you know. So I’m not going to be too
    specific on what depth I’m fishing at. It’s more about the technique. So, the first way
    to fish a worm and it catches a lot of bass is you just want it to fall straight down,
    through the cover, near the cover, next to a dock, whatever. You want it to fall really
    slow because that’s when the bass are going to hit it, is during that fall. So, all you’re
    going to do is cast it out, let that lure fall on slack line until it hits the bottom.
    Notice right away I cock the reel, even though it’s kind of a slack line. I want to be ready
    to set the hook. Let it fall all the way down. Now, when it’s
    falling, you’re not going to feel the bite. And that’s the hardest part about fishing
    plastic worms is detecting the bite because that straight down fall and slack line, what
    you have to do, you have to watch the line. That’s the only way you’re going to detect
    a bite. So, you’re looking for that line to jump, pop, twitch… Sometimes, it’ll just
    accelerate all of a sudden out of nowhere for no apparent reason or it will start swimming
    off to one side. That is one of the key things during the summertime. It just starts swimming
    away one direction or another. You won’t even feel the bite. You got to watch your line,
    pay attention for that sort of thing. And it always happens on the fall when that happens.
    So throw it out slac kline, cock that reel handle and then watch that line to see if
    anything happens. There we go. Strong fish. That’s a real strong
    fish. Here we go. Give me your face. He’s been eating. Keri: Oh. He has been eating. Glenn: Man, hooked him right at the roof of
    the mouth, too. You think he wanted that? He been eating. Took that worm. Here we go.
    Just saw it swimming off. Never felt the bite. All right dude. Let’s not fall over. All right.
    I’ll let you go. Once it hits the bottom, just reel up, and
    you want to lift up on it and let it fall back down again. And this time, I’m following
    it down with the rod and I’m reeling up the line, so I’m keeping a little bit of tension
    on the line. Not much. I still want it to fall straight down, but at least here I can
    feel the bite a little bit better. But, again, you have to watch the line. That’s the key
    to it. So, do that until you’re away from cover, just keep lifting the rod tip up and
    dropping the lure back down, reel up your slack, rinse, lather, repeat until you get
    back to the boat. Unless you pull away from a cover, once you’re away from cover, then
    just reel it back straight into the boat. That’s the first way to fish it. Now, another
    way to fish it is very similar. This works really well in the summertime. Now, throw
    it out, let it fall like I just showed you. But remember when I just showed you, I lifted
    it up slowly and let it fall back down slowly. In the summertime, this technique works really
    well and once it hits the bottom, you want to rip it up off the bottom and let it fall.
    Let it fall all the way down and then give it another pop and then let it fall all the
    way down, and then another pop, and let it fall all the way back down. What you’re doing
    here is you want to rip it up off the bottom. It often produces violent strikes from bass
    in the summertime. They’ll be following the bait all the way down and all of a sudden
    it “Boom!” takes off and it looks like it’s trying to get away from them and they’ll just,
    reaction strike. They’ll nail it really hard. So, when you’re fishing it that way, hold
    on tight because you can get some real violence strikes. But that’s an excellent way to fish
    it during the summertime. Now, let’s go the opposite. Let’s say a big
    front’s come through, dog days of summer and fish are kind of lethargic, they don’t want
    to bite. What do you do then? Well, throw it out there again. You can flip or pitch
    it same, different thing. There’re same, you know, different ways of casting it. Cast it
    out, let it hit the bottom. Now, reel up to it. And you want to feel a little bit of tension.
    You want that line to be tight between you and the bait and just let it sit. Don’t move
    it. That’s right. Don’t move it. You gotta be patient with this one. What you’re doing here is the bait may seem
    dead to you, like it’s not moving at all. But really what’s happening because you have
    tight line, you’ve got wind action and wave action that’s lapping away at the line and
    causing that bait to move just a little bit. You might have a little bit of current on
    the water. It’s causing that bait to twitch and move a little bit. And if you’re holding
    it with your hands, especially out away from your body, try doing this. Hold your hand
    steady. Just like this, you know, for two minutes. And try not to move it at all. Okay?
    You’re not gonna be able to do it. So, you’ll have a little bit of movements. And all of those little bit of movements combine
    to make that bait just move, quiver, kind of slowly move across the bottom of the lake.
    And a lot of times when the fish are real finicky, just that little subtle movement
    is all they need to suck it up off the bottom and swim off with it. So, you have to be a
    real line watcher when you’re doing that. They’re not going to thump it. Usually, the
    line just picks up and starts walking away. Kind of seems like a lazy way to fish it,
    but it really isn’t. It requires a lot of concentration. You’re not sitting there and
    slack line, so you constantly have to pay attention that you’ve got a tight line between
    you and the lure, and you just have to be on alert for that subtle, subtle pickup and
    you’ll catch a lot of fish that way in the summertime. Now, another way to fish this is you want
    it to look like a little creature bait going on the bottom of the lake. Let it sit on the
    bottom. Here, you want to hold your rod tip out a little bit to the side and you just
    want to drag it to about 90 degrees in front of you and then reel up the slack and then
    drag it again with the rod tip. Okay. The reason why you’re doing this, a couple of
    things. First of all, with the rod tip out to the side, you’re going to feel the bite.
    You’re going to feel that pickup. Sometimes it’s a real subtle pickup and that’s the hard
    part in the summertime. They just sometimes are very, very subtle, so havingit out to
    the side makes it easier to detect that bite. But also moving it with the rod tip helps
    you control the speed of it crawling along the bottom. You can do it fast, you can do it slow, just
    barely crawl along the bottom or move along really fast. But the rod now, you’re looking
    at it, you can see how fast you’re moving it. If you do it with your reel, it’s real
    difficult for you to visualize how fast that bait is moving on the bottom. You’ve got different
    gear ratios and if you have a lot of line down here versus a little bit of line that
    changes the speed, just don’t do it that way. Move it with your rod and you’ll have a lot
    more control over it, plus you’d be ready to set the hook when you feel the bite. Finally, another way to fish it is… This
    is great when you have lots of weeds, submergent weeds such as milfoil, hydrilla. What I’ll
    do is I’ll throw it out there and let’s say its 2 feet under the water. I’ll just let
    it sink a little bit, bring my rod tip up and I’ll just slowly reel it back, just slowly,
    reel it over the top. If I see a pocket, a little hole in those weeds and I’ll drop it
    right down in it. Let it fall right in. A lot of times you’ll get a bite when it falls
    right in those holes. Bring it back up through the hole and just bring it over the top. What
    you’re doing is the fish are buried down in those weeds and they’re looking up and they
    see something go by them. It’s not like a crankbait or super violent or high profile
    bait. It’s real subtle and a lot of times they’ll just dive right out of that cover
    and inhale that bait. [00:20:02]
    [Silence] [00:20:12] Look at that. Oh, swim in the worm. Swimming
    in it. Keri: He wanted to chase it. Glenn: There we go. There we go. Swimming
    the worm. That’s how we do. Swimming it. Keep it right there. So, those are the primary ways that I fish
    plastic worms during the summertime. I hope it works for you. For more tips and tricks
    like this, visit

    Know How Long To Fish A Lure! | Bass Fishing
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    Know How Long To Fish A Lure! | Bass Fishing

    January 15, 2020

    Glenn: Hey, folks, Glenn May here at,
    but I’m here with Hank Parker with another weekly tip from Hank Parker. Where he answers your questions, and this
    week’s question comes from Bob, from, uh…what is that city? Hank: Mahanoy City, Pennsylvania is what I
    get. Glenn: Mahanoy City? Hank: Mahanoy City. Glenn: I hope we got that right, Bob, I really
    do. The question here is, would like to know that,
    “During a tournament, when do you know you should give up fishing a pattern or a lure,
    and try something else? And what are the factors that you consider
    when you make that change?” Hank: That’s a great question, and I like
    that, and it varies. You know, I fished tournaments on the St.
    Lawrence Seaway in New York where you’re gonna catch a hundred bass a day most likely, not
    always, but you have a really good chance at doing that. And then I’ve fished tournaments on Cherokee,
    Tennessee where, if you get five bites, you’ve had a great day. So, obviously, it’s a complete different mindset
    on St. Lawrence Seaway versus Cherokee Lake in Tennessee, so it depends on what body of
    water you’re on. You know, most of the time you can look at
    the history when you’ve been to a lake or you’ve looked at a lake, and you’ve been there
    in the past, and there’s a history on how many pounds it took to win a tournament, and
    how many guys had limits in that tournament. I try to research and find out as much as
    I can about a lake. And when you’re fishing in that tournament,
    it all depends on what body of water you’re on, what kind of bites you’re having, how
    many pounds is it gonna take to win to make that adjustment. Again, Cherokee, Tennessee, hey, if you get
    five bites in a day’s time, you’ve had a great day. So you wanna really concentrate on staying
    with your game plan and not deviatin’. You know, you put it together in practice,
    and stay with it. On the other hand, St. Lawrence Seaway, man,
    there’s a ton of smallmouth in that place, and a lot of great large mouth, and if you
    don’t have any fish going by 10:00, throw that pattern away and go to a go-to pattern
    that you know produces fish on those tidal rivers, and just make small adjustments after
    you get your plan together and go for it. I’m not saying…I did say it but let me back
    up and retract that. I never liked throwing my game plan away,
    but if I ain’t got a fish and I’m on the St. Lawrence Seaway, something’s definitely wrong
    because I should’ve already caught 20 by now. So I’m gonna make some pretty big changes
    there. Whereas, if I were in Tennessee, I would make
    little bitty changes perhaps, but I wouldn’t get too radical because five bites is good. I’m looking for 100 bites on the St. Lawrence
    Seaway, so I’m gonna make some more, bigger adjustments in New York than I would in Tennessee. That’s my whole point. So whatever has worked for you in practice,
    modify that. Make little changes. For example, if you were catching a fish on
    the shoreline, on a big, rocky shoreline and there was big boulders there, and you were
    catching on a spinnerbait, and today you just can’t buy a bite, man. You haven’t had a follow-up, you hadn’t caught
    a fish, go to a crankbait. Go to something to get on the bottom. They’re not coming up after that bait. If that doesn’t work, go to something you
    can fish low, like a jig or a sinking worm or a tube. But don’t just abandon that area. If those fish were there, they hadn’t gone
    far, and if you can’t catch ’em in there the on the inside, then move out and find the
    point. Find an area where there’s a break line, and
    then fish that break line. Those types of adjustments are the adjustments
    that have paid off for me, rather than abandon the whole game plan that you’ve put together
    in practice. Glenn: That’s fantastic advice, Hank. Bob, I hope that answers your question. For more tips and tricks like this, you need
    to visit where there’s tons of tips and tricks and articles on there. You can just immerse yourself in there, lots
    of great information on there. And if you wanna be notified the next tips
    and tricks that we post, subscribe to our channel. Until then, have a great day.

    5 Tips For Fishing A Wacky Rig Senko | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    5 Tips For Fishing A Wacky Rig Senko | Bass Fishing

    January 15, 2020

    There we go. These little guys are a lot of fun. I’m fishing in the middle summer on a big
    public reservoir, and I’m catching all the little ones, but I’m telling you what man
    they a lot of fun. You can have a 100 fish day on this lake easily
    doing this. What I’m doing? Fishing a wacky rig Senko. Look at that man he’s got that right in his
    face. So today I’m gonna show you how I rig this
    up, what equipment I’m using, and then I’m gonna to take you on the water and show you
    how to, all the different techniques to use fishing wacky rig Senko. Hey folks, Glenn May here with
    and, today, I want to talk to you about wacky rigging a Senko and how to fish it. I want to take you through the outfits I use,
    the rigs, the gear, how you use that, and then how to fish it. I’m not going to show you how to rig it. I’ve got a video on that that’s linked underneath
    this video here that you can look at later. This is essentially what we’re looking at,
    just a wacky rig. Now, I want to take you through what I’m using
    here. I know there’s a lot of specialty equipment
    that you can get, or a lot of tackle you can get. There’s O rings, there’s weighted O rings,
    there’s specialty hooks, there’s octopus hooks, there’s weighted jigs. There’s all these things you can get specifically
    for wacky rigging and there’s nothing wrong with any of them. If this is what you use and you’re accustomed
    to using it, then keep using it. I’m not saying the way I do it is the only
    way to do it or the right way to do it. I’m just going to take you through how I do
    it. For me, I just use a football head jig, just
    a real simple football head jig. And the reason why is I’m all for simplicity. I try not to buy specialty gear that only
    has one purpose or a one trick pony, because my tackle would just explode with tons of
    stuff and it’s hard to keep it all organized. So, the more that I can multipurpose things,
    the better. So, here it’s just a football head jig that
    I normally use for fishing grubs, another type of light wire, and a finesse gear, finesse
    baits. That’s all I do, right here. It’s real simple. It’s kind of ugly, but it serves the trick. Now, this is an open hook jig. I can speak English, and the reason why is
    I’m fishing open water. I’m fishing rocks and those type of things
    that don’t have a lot of vegetation, things it can get hung up on, but you can certainly
    get these that are weedless. They’ve got a wire in front of it to help
    prevent it from getting hooked up into anything like that, so you don’t get stuck in anything. But, for now, I’m using an open hook jig for
    these purposes. There’s all kinds you can use. And I’ve got this paired up with 15 pound
    co-polymer line. And the reason I’m doing that, this is a light
    wire hook. This a light wire Gamakatsu hook. If you power this up with braided line and
    you set the hook on that, you stand a good chance of straightening out that hook or as
    you’re fighting the fish back, it’ll straighten out and you may lose the fish that way. So, I’m just using 15 pound co-polymer line. It’s got a little bit of stretch to it, a
    little bit of give. I don’t use fluorocarbon on this particular
    set up. The reason I’m using this weight, by the way,
    I want to go back to that for a second. I know some people fish it weightless. To me, if I’m going to fish a Senko weightless,
    then I’ll just Texas rig and fish it that way. When I’m doing wacky rigs, see how it sits
    like that? This is the action that you want. As it goes through the water, it kind of does
    that. Well, if you have a weight on it, that accentuates
    that. If you don’t have a weight, it just kind of
    tends to fall like this. You don’t get that action out of it. The more weight you have on it, the more action
    you get and that’s what I want to get when I’m fishing wacky rig. So, that’s why it’s weighted. Here this is just an eighth ounce weight. You can go up to a quarter ounce, three quarter
    ounce, depending how deep you’re going, depending on if you’re fishing windy conditions, you
    can heavy up, but starting off with an eighth ounce is perfect. And I’m fishing in our bait casting outfit. This is a medium action with a fast tip rod. Might go medium heavy sometimes, but that,
    again, you’re over powering this thin hook. So, I really don’t want to use a medium heavy
    on this. If I do, I’ll have a fast tip on that’ll give
    a little bit of give on it or maybe even an extra fast tip, but a medium action, fast
    action rod, a medium action rod with a fast tip, that’s perfect for this set up. Works great. Now, if you’re fishing in current, that’s
    when we might heavy up a little bit. We might go with a heavier jig. We might go with a half-ounce, maybe even
    an ounce, depending on how swift the current is because you need that bait to fall through
    the water column. If you’re using a real light weight, you throw
    it up stream and by the time it gets all the way down, you’ve got a taut line that’s only
    falling about a foot and a half. So, a little bit of a heavier jig is what
    you’ll be using in that and maybe even heavy up on your line and on your rod and reel. But, again, it’s so versatile. There’s so many ways to fish it. If you want to fish it on a spinning outfit,
    eight pound test, say, for example, nothing wrong with that. You can do that. Again, it just depends on the cover. If you’re fishing heavy cover, then you want
    to heavy up. I’m using bait casting outfits, so why I use
    it on this. All right, so, that’s the gear and that’s
    how you use it. Now, let’s go out and fish it. Okay, so the most straightforward way to fish
    a wacky rig is just to cast it out there and let it fall. That rig itself is just going to be doing
    this all the way down. Okay? It’s just doing that motion, like I told you
    before. So, let it do the work for you. So, just cast it out and let it fall and just
    watch the line. Watch the line as it falls, ‘cuz that’s when
    the strike is going to happen. So, you want to watch to see if it pops, twitches,
    the line jumps, something like that. If you see that, then you just reel down,
    set the hook. Now, once it hits the bottom, all you’re going
    to do is lift up on it and let it fall straight down again. Just reel the slack and let it fall, hit the
    bottom and lift back up and let it fall. And watch that line. Reel up that slack as it’s falling and watch
    that line very carefully because, again, that’s when the strike is going to occur. Now, another way to fish this bait is, I’ve
    got some weeds out here. This is a great way to do it. Throw it out there and reel it across the
    weeds. So, just throw it out there, let it sink a
    little bit. Now, I’m just going to keep the rod tip down
    and I’m just going to reel it steady right across the weeds. And hopefully, you call a fish out of the
    weeds doing it that way. And it’s just doing this as you’re reeling
    it. So, it’s got a lot of action to it. Great way to catch fish, especially if you’ve
    been catching them on a crank bait for a while and that bite dies off a bit. That’s when you want to throw this. You can go back to those same areas and catch
    fish where you were catching them with crank baits before. And then lastly, one other technique I want
    to show you. You throw it out there and you let it fall,
    and it’s just dragging it, letting it sit on the bottom, and now I’m just moving the
    rod tip and I’m dragging it on the bottom with the rod. Reel up the slack. I’m not moving it with the reel, I’m just
    reeling up the slack. Then I move it with the rod tip and let it
    sit on the bottom. You’re going to be able to feel every little
    rock, weed, crevice, twig, branch, all that stuff, just crawl it across the bottom. And that’s all there is to it. Here, you’re just imitating a bait fish or
    something on the bottom, feeding on the bottom. The fish will pick it up off of that. Some days, you’re going to have to experiment
    with this. You’ll have to play and figure out which way
    they want to bite. Sometimes, the fish want it when you throw
    it out and let it fall. Other times, you need to drag it or swim it
    back. You’ve just got to experiment with it and,
    eventually, you’ll figure out what it is they want to do. When you set the hook, ‘cuz it is an exposed
    hook, you don’t have to reef it really hard. Just give it a moderate hook set. That’s all you need to do, just enough to
    get that hook past the barb and you’ll have a fish. Hope that helps. For more tips and tricks like this, visit

    How To Fish Toads For Bass (The Best Ways) | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    How To Fish Toads For Bass (The Best Ways) | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020

    Glenn: Really. Some bushes right here on the end of a flat
    that drop right off. Really, this is like a prime spot, and it
    was! Yes! There we go. Big old fish on a toad, on a toad! There we go. There we go. Come here. Right there. There we go. Oh, I think he wanted that. Look at that boys. Took that right down. That’s what toad fishing can do for you right
    there. All right, buddy. Hey folks. Glenn May here, with, and
    today I want to talk to you about toad fishing. Yeah, fishing solid body, soft plastic toads. These things are a blast to fish, especially
    in the warmer months. I love doing this. So today I want to talk to you a little bit
    about how to rig them up, what kind of gear you should be using, and then how to fish
    it. Let’s first start off with equipment. With toad fishing, you’re going to be throwing
    in a lot of cover, a lot of places where the fish can wrap you up or around objects, be
    it bushes, trees, dock pilings, things like that, so you need some heavy duty gear. I’m using a heavy power, fast action rod. It’s a seven foot three rod. You can use anywhere from say a 7.1 to a 7.8
    rod, up to personal preference. I like rods a little bit on the shorter side
    of things, so I’m going with a 7.3. You need that heavy power and that backbone
    to set the hook and get that fish going towards you. There’s a huge hook you’re going to be using. I’m going to show you. This is a thick 5/0 hook. I’ll show you that in a second, and that’s
    one of the reasons why you need a stout rod to set that hook. I’m using 50 pounds Kanzen braid line from
    Seagaur. The reason why I’m using that is, first of
    all, you’re making long casts with toads. You’re throwing it over big flats, areas of
    vegetation that may be just under the surface, and you’re fan casting to it. And what I mean by fan casting, is basically
    you start casting say about the 10:00 position, make your retrieve, the next cast is going
    to be about the 11:00 position, the next one at 12, 1, so on and so forth, okay? You’re just covering, a very methodical way
    of covering a large expanse of water, but you’re also making long casts to cover as
    much as you can. So when you’re using braided line, when you
    get above that 50 pound mark, it’s kind of hard to cast long distances. It kind of inhibits your distance, so that’s
    why I stick with 50 pound. I don’t get any bigger than that. I specifically use Kanzen line, because toads,
    you know, they’re very buoyant, they stay on the surface, but they do sink. The braided line helps. It’s a little buoyant, and it helps them stay
    on the surface, rather than using say fluorocarbon, which can actually bring the bait down. Fluorocarbon is a little bit more dense and
    has a little more weight to it, so, you know, it doesn’t float as much as braid, so that’s
    why I’m using 50 pound Kanzen braided line. On it, I’m using a reel that…the most important
    thing about the reel is not so much the reel speed, because you’re not bringing the toad
    back at, you know, a mach 50 like you would crank baiting. What you want to focus on is the drag, and
    this is a Kastking Assassin Reel. It’s got 16 and a half pounds of drag. That’s pretty stout. Most production reels these days, when they
    come out, they usually have 11, 12 pounds of drag. This is 16 and a half, so you’re getting up
    in that area where you have a really strong drag system. There are other reels that have that drag
    that strong, even some that have stronger drag than that. I’m not saying this is the only reel, but
    that’s the choice you want to look at when you’re looking for frog fishing, or toad fishing,
    what kind of drag that the reel has. So let’s talk about rigging here. Like I said, you’re using a really stout hook. This is a 5/0, real thick wire hook, and it’s
    keel weighted and also has a screw lock on it, all right? The key thing about the weight, see how far
    down the shank it is? That’s what you want. You don’t want it…there’s some keel weighted
    hooks where I see the weight right up here. All’s that’s going to do is make your toad
    point downward, nose down. It’s going to dig it into the water, and make
    it dive, so you want the weight further back here to where the hook starts the bend. This hook is by Moaner Hooks, but there’s
    a lot of other hooks out there that have that kind of weight to it as well, weight placement,
    and then, of course, you got the screw locks. So let me show you how you rig this. First of all, just with the screw lock, you
    put it right dead center, right in the nose of the frog or the toad here, and you just
    screw it on. I mean it’s that straightforward. Just screw that on just like that. All right. Now it’s on. Now, just like that, the key with fishing
    toads, you want that back to be straight or even have a little bit of a bow to it. That allows it to run true. If you’ve got it bowed like this, what’s going
    to happen is that toad’s going to want to flip over and run upside down, even though
    you’ve got this weight here, it’s going to want to do that. This is a quarter ounce weight. You can go lighter than that. If you don’t use a weight, the most…you’re
    actually going to have problems with the toad spinning, especially if you bow it up like
    that. You’ve got to have a little bit of a bow down
    or perfectly flat. So I just rig it in like you would Texas style. You can see where the hook’s supposed to come
    in. It’s right in the very, very back, so I just
    push it up like that, put that hook right in the very back part of it, and there you
    go. Now I just skin hook it just barely, just
    like so. Nice and straight, see? All right. So that’s how you rig it. Toads don’t come with their own hook, so you’ve
    got to learn how to rig it right, but that’s exactly what you want, nice, straight. See that, night and straight. Perfect, now we’re ready to go toad fishing. There. I had to wait until I felt em. There we go. There we go. There we go. Come here you. Look at that. Not a big guy, but he took it. See, the key with fishing these toads is when
    the fish blows up on it, your natural reaction is to set the hook right away. Instead, you gotta drop the rod, rod tip,
    and feed them slack, and feed it to them, and wait. Reel up some of that slack, wait until you
    feel the weight of the fish, and then pop em, you know. Drop the rod tip just a little bit, throw
    some slack along if you need to. Boom, and pop them in. Look, the hook went all the way through his
    cheek. That’s how you do it guys. The places where I like to fish it. I like to fish it in the areas where the weeds
    are just under the surface, from a few inches to maybe two feet or so under the surface. That’s the perfect place to be throwing a
    toad. These little legs here they create some disturbance
    on the water, and a straight cast and retrieve works really, really well on a lot of toads. This is designed to be fished as slow as possible
    while keeping it on the surface, so, like I said, you don’t need a fast reel for that. You just need to be able to reel it fast enough
    to keep it on the surface and create a little bubbling, gurgling action on the water. Today, we don’t have a lot of disturbance
    on the water. In other words, you don’t have a lot of wind,
    so the slower the better. If there’s a little more wind, you want to
    create a little more disturbance, so speed it up a little bit, and you create a little
    bit more of a gurgling action. The unique characteristic about this Rage
    Toad, let me show you here, are its legs. You’ve got this little ridge right here, right,
    and that enables it, these legs, to move, and you’re barely moving it across the water,
    right? It just doesn’t take a whole lot of movement,
    so you can move it very, very slow and get a disturbance. But if the water is slick calm, and you’re
    not, and it’s just glass smooth, that’s probably, even then, too much disturbance. So what you can do, is just take yourself,
    take a pair of scissors, and cut off the insides of this, right on the inside here, right here,
    just cut off a little bit of that meat right there, and make this leg, this part, thinner,
    and that will create less disturbance on the water. Real subtle action, especially when on those
    slick, calm mornings, just a little bit of gurgling, just keep shaving off a little bit
    of that, and you’ll find you’ll catch a lot, get a lot more bites. Keri: There you go. Good one honey, good one, good one, good one,
    good one, good one. Glenn: Here we go. Keri: Nice fish. Glenn: Here we go. Keri: Nice one. Toad fishing at its finest. Glenn: Come here. There we are. Keri: Nice fish. Glenn: So, the key, remember when you’re fishing
    these toads, is to keep the rod tip up. Keep that rod tip up so you keep that toad
    toward the surface, and that what he did. He hit it right on the top. Another thing to keep in mind is color. A lot of times what I like to do fish a bait
    that’s got a little bit of green pumpkin in it and has a white belly. I think that looks the most natural and what
    most frogs look like, so I start with that. But if I’m not getting bites, or just getting
    blow-ups or follows, then I’ll switch to a darker color, say a black, or I may go with
    a, like a camo type color, something that’s got variations of different color, maybe a
    June Bug even, some kind of a darker color. And if all else fails, I’ll try to find something
    really bright and obnoxious, like a chartreuse colored frog. You’d be surprised just by changing up color,
    how many more bites you’ll get if your just getting follows or blow-ups. A nice little hole right in there isn’t it? Keri: Oh. Nope. Glenn: You’ve got to be kidding me. Keri: I got a weed, but he blew-up on it. Throw in there. He didn’t get it. Glenn: Nope, doesn’t want it. [00:11:43]
    [silence] [00:12:14] Keri: YUM Dinger time. He wanted it and look at that. If they don’t hit the toad the first time,
    follow it up with a YUM Dinger. Glenn: The thing with toads though is they
    don’t work just in the spring. I’m sure you’ve been doing a lot a bit of
    research on this, and a lot of them say fish it in the spring, and then put them away. I don’t know, I’ve been fishing toads. My wife and I have been fishing toads for
    decades now, and we didn’t read any books on it. There wasn’t YouTube out to learn how to fish
    it, so we just went out and started fishing them, and it turns out, we can be pretty successful
    with them any time the water is say about 55, 56 degrees, from the spring all the way
    to the fall, when it starts to cool down and pass that mark again, you can catch fish on
    a toad. So don’t put it away in the spring. That’d be a mistake. Throw it out in those flats where you see,
    you know, Milfoil, Hydrilla, Coontail, anything where it’s just under the surface. Throw it out there, and make a nice, you know,
    easy cast, nice slow retrieve. Sometimes what we like to do is give it a
    little yank with a rod tip, and give it a little gurgle, and then slow it back down
    again, and don’t be afraid to kill it. That little erratic action is often what triggers
    bites. So reel it, reel it, reel it, kill it, and
    then especially if you get it next to a bush, next to a dock piling, next to some kind of
    structure, that’s a great place to kill it, and the fish will come up and smack it. One other thing you need to be real careful
    about is when you’re reeling these back in to the boat, and you’re just about to pull
    it out of the water to make another cast, a lot of times that’s when the fish smack
    it. It scares the bejesus out of you. I mean it’s scared…they come up and just,
    you’re just ready to pull it out of the water, and they come out and bam, smack it. I don’t know why, but that’s happened quite
    a bit with us fishing these toads, so be ready at any time and have a good pacemaker if you
    have those, because it can really stop your heart there for a second, but it’s a real
    exciting way of fishing. Keri: Whoa. Dear Lord. Glenn: Whoa. Holy-Mollie. Keri: Dear Lord. Glenn: Wow. Keri: That was like an instant. Holy crap. Right at the boat. Glenn: Over on this side. Wow. Keri: Right at the boat. Here you go, folks. I hope that was on camera. Glenn: It was. Keri: Because that was right at the boat. He just came up and ate that… Glenn: Toad. Keri: Toad. It just came up and ate that toad. There you go folks, toad fishing. It scared the daylights out of me. Glenn: Anyway, that’s basically the way you
    fish a toad. There’s not a whole lot to it, other than
    just a nice steady retrieve, let it fall. If you’re throwing it over the matted weeds,
    and there’s like a pocket or something like that. You see a hole, let it drop down and tumble
    down in there and see if you can’t get a bite and a lot of times that works. Other than that, have a whole, heck of a lot
    of fun. I hope those tips help. For more tips and tricks, and for more answers
    to all your questions about bass fishing, visit

    How Do You Get Good At Bass Fishing? | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    How Do You Get Good At Bass Fishing? | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020

    Glenn: I got one more question for you. And this is pretty universal regardless of
    what your skill level you’re at, whether you’re just starting out or say if you’ve been in
    tournaments for a while and you still trying to getting better. And that question is, how do I get better
    at bass fishing? What kind of advice can you give to somebody
    who’s asking that? Ott DeFoe: That to me is really a pretty easy
    one. The single biggest thing is to go fishing
    every opportunity you get, and to always keep an open mind when you are out there fishing. And if you have that crazy thought that says,
    “I’m throwing a worm and I need to tie on buzz bait.” Tie on buzz bait because there’s something
    in your gut, a natural intuitive instinct that told you to try something different. And if it’s wrong, you tried it, you won’t
    regret having tried it. But if you don’t try it, and then you go home
    where you just didn’t catch any fish dragging your worm around, you’re going to go back
    and say, “Well, I really wish I would have tried that buzz bait today.” So always just listen to that gut when you’re
    learning, when you’re trying to become a better angler because you’ll have those times when
    you have a thought, you toss something else on and your very first cast, you catch a bass
    with it. And that’s going to give you confidence to
    always trust your gut and whatever those conditions are telling you to do and whatever knowledge
    you have that you’ve read or you’ve watched or whatever it may be, that once you have
    that thought, that you’ll trust it and more times than not that’s going to help you. Gerald Swindle: To get better at anything
    you have to challenge yourself to learn something new and do something out of your comfort zone. If you’re comfortable fishing a worm and that’s
    all you ever do, that’s good as you’re going to get. Challenge yourself to learn to throw something
    different. Throw a spinner bait. When you feel comfortable with that, go tie
    on a chatterbait, when you get comfortable with that, tie on a square-up crankbait. Every time you get comfortable with something
    and you feel like you’ve kind of got the hang of it, challenge yourself to learn one more
    technique, and one more technique, because the more you learn, the more you catch. Glenn: The more variety more… Don’t be a one trick pony is what i’m hearing. Gerald Swindle: Right. You want to have several tricks in your hat
    and you wanna be able to use them. And then, once you get perfected of those
    techniques, you will learn that when you see those situations occur on the water, you say,
    “This is the perfect situation for crankbait,” tie it on you’ll be successful. Kevin VanDam:Well, today there are so many
    resources available. I mean, since the advent of the internet and
    YouTube channels, things like that, you can literally research and find out about all
    these new lures and techniques and how to fish them. You know, I’ve done tons of videos on,, you
    know how to fish different baits or things like that, or different scenarios, how to
    use your electronics and all that. The bottom line is, is there’s a ton of information
    out there, and that’s great, but you still have to go out and apply it. So there’s just no substitute for time on
    the water. You can be an armchair expert, you can learn
    all about how to fish a drop shot or whatever, but until you actually go out and do it, you’re
    not going to be an expert at it. And that’s what it takes, you got to go out,
    if you want to learn something new, to go out and focus on that technique or that bait
    and don’t do anything else. That’s the best way to learn something new,
    it’s just just going out there and focus on it. Brandon Palaniuk: The number one thing that
    never changes is time on the water. No matter your skill level, where you’re at
    in the country, how old you are, there’s no substitute for time on the water. And you can’t’ only go on the days that are
    nice. Like, you can’t only go on sunny days, you
    can’t be a fair weather fisherman. Because if you do that, then you’re only training
    yourself to catch fish under those conditions. And so for like us as tournament anglers,
    we don’t get to pick the weather that we fish under, right? We just get to pick the dates that we fish
    and whatever mother nature throws at us for whether we have to adapt to. And so I always encourage people to go fish
    on the nastiest days. If you have an off day and you have the chance
    to go fishing, go do that. Because what happens is, the more experience
    and more time you have on the water, the faster that light bulb goes off. And so when you see those conditions again,
    and you see those variables, it’s just like a math question. You’re adding this and you’re subtracting
    this and eventually, you have this equation to say, “This is what I need to do. This is what I need to throw, this is where
    I need to go.” And you can only get that by time on the water,
    because everyone’s going to have their own little personal twist. So if you want to get better, no matter what
    skill level you are, you just need to spend time on the water. Even if it’s on the bank, it doesn’t have
    to even be in a boat, you just need to spend time on the water fishing. Edwin Evers: My advice would be to fish with
    as many different people as you can. No matter how good or bad you think somebody
    may be, you can learn something of everybody. If I went fishing with you tomorrow, Glen,
    I’m going to learn something of you, you’re going to learn something of me. And it may be, you may learn from me, “Hey,
    I sure don’t want to do it that way, the way Ed was doing it,” but you’re still learning
    something. The more people you can fish with, the more
    things you can learn, you know. Sign up in a club or something like that where
    you can fish with multiple people. The more time you can spend on the water,
    obviously, you’re going to get much better. When it all comes down to it, it’s just bass
    fishing. So many times we try to make it so complicated,
    and it’s really not. Glenn: Always be learning about something
    new. Edwin Evers: Always. Always, always. If you’re if I’m talking to a tournament angler
    here that’s maybe good with this technique or that technique, for me, I was really bad
    at jerkbait fishing at one point in my career, I was really bad with a spinning rod, I wouldn’t
    even carry one. So I really worked at honing my skills with
    those baits, and that’s all I’d fish with. At one point, my career I was horrible in
    Florida. I’m still not very good in Florida, but I
    spent a lot of winters down there trying to learn it back in my single days to become
    better in Florida. So you can take it as far as you want to,
    but make yourself get better at those things, you know, offshore fishing. One of the things I always tell anybody is
    just drop your jig over the side of your boat below the trolling motor. Look at the size of your jig on your Lowrance,
    then that’ll really tell you what size of everything else you need to look for. If you’re struggling with offshore fishing,
    get it all, get the rest of everything else out of the boat. Get that shallow spinner bait, that shallow
    square bill, put your Carolina rig or football jig, deep diving crankbait in your boat to
    where you don’t have anything to fall back on, you know, after you’ve been out there
    for two hours and you hadn’t had a bite. But, you know, I’ve always said with that
    offshore fishing, and we’re kind of going off on a tangent here, but I’ll find them
    with my electronics before I ever make a cast. I mean, you will see me go to an offshore
    event and I will be behind the wheel of that NITRO 12 hours of the day, you know, because
    I have that much confidence in my electronics, and when I see them on my electronics, that’s
    when I’ll turn around and fish. So many people fish all the way around a point,
    which may take an hour. I’m going to idle that entire point, waypoint
    to a couple of groups I see here, a couple of fish I see, then turn around and go catch
    those fish. Keith Poche: There’s really only one answer
    and a lot of people may not want to hear this answer, but I had to live it. I had to go through a nasty experience. It’s just time on the water. It’s just, you know, research as much as you
    can research and put in the time. You can’t take away from time on the water. Time on the water and experience situations
    and patterns will definitely grow your knowledge efficient and how to catch them, what not
    to look for, what to look for. It’s like any other sport, with basketball,
    football. I mean, we went to practice every day during
    the week. We lifted weights, I mean, you don’t just
    show up and are naturally good. There’s techniques, there’s things you have
    to do, and the only way to do that is to practice. And that’s what it takes to go out. If it’s just learning how to skip underneath
    a dock, or how to throw a crankbait or whatever, throw a, you know, a walking topwater bait,
    going out there and actually doing it and doing it and doing it until you get good at
    it, that is 100% the only way you’re going to get better. Chris Zaldain: How do you get better at any
    other sport? Honestly, you practice. You practice, practice, practice. And man, I remember growing up in high school
    after sixth period, I’d go out in my little float tube and just work on fishing. And actually, to get to more specific, I remember
    growing up swim day fishing, I would go out in my kick boat float tube and only bring
    one rod, one reel, one lure, and you were absolutely forced to work on that particular
    technique. So how do you get better at a particular technique
    or how do you get better at bass fishing in general? Is go out there with one rod, limit yourself
    to one rod, you’re forced to learn that specific technique. It’ll make you a better fisherman. Glenn: That’s perfect advice. I think we’ve all of us have done that. That’s a great way of learning. Chris Zaldain: Yes. Absolutely Glenn: Thank you so much for your time. I appreciate it. Chris Zaldain: Thank you, Glenn.

    Best Glasses For Fishing: How To Choose | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    Best Glasses For Fishing: How To Choose | Bass Fishing

    January 14, 2020

    Hey, folks. Glenn May here with, and
    today I want to talk to you about a tool that’s often not talked about. It is something that is vital to the success
    of your fishing and yet most people don’t really put as much thought into them as you
    would, say, your fishing gear such as you line, your reels, your rod, that sort of thing. That is your sunglasses. These, right here. Fishing sunglasses, the right kind do a variety
    of things for you on the water. Obviously, they protect your eyes from the
    sun such as the harmful UVA and UVB rays, which, you know, if you guys are out on the
    water all the time, you need to have glasses just to protect your eyes. I mean, you’re wearing sunscreen or you’re
    wearing the buffs, I’m wearing sunscreen today, you have to do that to protect yourself. You’ve got to protect your eyes too, even
    when it’s cloudy out. But they do more than that. Polarized sunglasses allow you to look in
    the water and that’s because they cut the glare down, the reflection down in the water,
    and you can see fish-holding structure. You can see rock piles. You can see logs. You can see weed lines. You can see pockets in the weeds, for example,
    in milfoil. And you can see under docks. It allows you to see what’s going on, plus
    the baitfish activity, and it will help you tune in to what’s going on underwater and
    help you catch more fish that way. Also, they protect your eyes from objects. You know what I mean? We’ve fished enough times, so we know we end
    up hooking on something. You yank on it and guess what? You’ve got this lure coming back at you, at
    mach 80 with a bunch of hooks in it, it can come right back at your face. Or a fish strikes a lure and it’s right at
    the surface and you set the hook and you miss them, here comes that lure. Well, these glasses here can protect your
    eyes from getting a hook in them. So, there’s a variety of things that you…reasons
    why you should get glasses, but let’s dive into really what the components and what you
    need to look into to buy the right kind of glasses for you that’s going to last you for
    a long time. Starting with the lenses. The lenses themselves are basically two different
    colors you can get them in. One is this gray and the other shade is an
    amber or, kind of, an orange, or a copper tint. The amber or the gray ones, that’s what these
    are. The gray tint is, kind of, your universal,
    all-around. If you can only get one pair of glasses, that’s
    the shade you can get because it works whether it’s sunny or cloudy outside, rainy, what
    have you, and it’s pretty year-around, all-around purpose. Bright sunny days is really what they’re best
    for but they work all around. The amber ones or the copper ones, those are
    kind of a specialty but those are really for low-light conditions early morning, evening,
    really cloudy days or say, for example, you’re sight fishing. What they do is will give you the contrast. When you’re looking under water, it really
    brings a lot of contrast to the items underneath the water and you can see them better. So, it really helps you in those darker days
    to be able to see what’s going on under the water. More about lenses, they come in, basically,
    two different materials. There’s glass and polycarbonate and there’s
    advantages and disadvantages to both. And the glass traditionally has been the best
    as far as clarity. They’ve, obviously, been around for a long
    time. They’re very clear. They offer greater visibility underwater,
    to a certain extent and you can get them in prescription, different ranges of prescriptions,
    a lot easier than you could polycarbonate. The problem with glass lenses is that they’re
    heavy. Over the course of a day of fishing, that
    can weigh on you. I mean, if you’re fishing on a hot summer
    day, the weight of the glasses can slide down your nose and just constantly you’re messing
    with them all day along. The weight of it can also wear down on your
    nose and actually become uncomfortable. Polycarbonate lenses, on the other hand, are
    a lot lighter, so they don’t do that. The newer ones, in the last couple of years
    that have come out, they’re actually really good quality and the difference in clarity
    between glass and polycarbonate has really come together quickly. The polycarbonate, even the curved ones, they
    are really distortion free these days. They’ve done really, really well. So, they have really good clarity and they’re
    not as expensive as glass. That’s another reason why they’re really good. The polycarbonate, this specifically one,
    these ones here are from Wiley X and these are actually industrial grade polycarbonate,
    meaning…I talked earlier about objects coming at your eyes, it’s actually like a shop glasses. It won’t shatter, it won’t break under most
    conditions as something like a jig comes flying right back at your eye, it’s actually going
    to protect your eyes. Whereas glass, depending on the manufacturer,
    it can shatter or crack. That could be a problem near your eyes. So, this was one of the reasons why I really
    like polycarbonate a lot better. But let’s talk a little bit about the frames
    themselves. Again, they come in different materials, primarily
    metal or, you know, polymer. Metal has its benefits. It’s more durable. It doesn’t bend as much. You can accidentally sit on them and potentially
    not damage them as you might with the polymer lenses or glasses but they’re also heavy. And if you have a metal frame with glass that…actually,
    it’s given me headaches. I used to have glasses like that and it would
    give me a headache by the end of the day because of all the weight on the bridge of my nose
    and on my ears. My ears would start to hurt after a while. So, these are nice and lightweight. These are called the Tide glasses. I really do like them because they’re just
    super light. I don’t even know I’ll have them on all day
    long. The cool thing about, also, this type of material
    is the shape. As you can see, this is a wraparound design. This is called the Tide, if you want to know. But there are some important things to think
    about when you’re getting the shape because that’s critical. For me, you want the shape to prevent any
    sort of light from getting inside your face or in inside the glenses. Anything that’s not coming through the lens,
    you want to block out, completely block out. And that’s what the wraparound design does,
    it completely blocks out the light. Even more so though, it has to fit your face. I have, kind of, a small, narrow face, so
    most glasses don’t fit me right. They’re too wide and when you have them too
    wide, say, for example, the sun is at your back, you’ve got the sun coming straight through
    or light reflecting off the water and it will come through, hit the inside of your lens
    and you get these bright flashes that are really annoying, very distracting, and it’s
    hard to see. And even if you don’t have bright light going
    in there, if you have a little bit of light getting in there, you get this closeup of
    your eyeball that, again, it impedes, you know, the clarity and, you know, the see. So wraparound for me, it has to block the
    light all the way around, including down here by my cheeks. Very, very important because, you know, when
    we’re fishing, we’re looking down all day long, looking downward and any light coming
    up, reflecting off the waters will get up underneath the bottom of the glasses and can,
    again, get in the way of you seeing things. It could almost blind you, this flashing lights
    of ripples off the water. For some people, the way their face is shaped,
    the light can come through the top of the frame. So, what’s really important is for you to
    try on a variety of different frames to see what fits you best. The Wiley brand, I think they have 40 different
    frames to fit a variety of different faces. So that’s what I would go with and that’s
    what I’m most familiar with. But there’s, you know, other manufacturers
    too that make different frame sizes, so definitely try those on. The key thing here is that this is a tool
    and you got to put as much thought into it as you would your rods and reels. I know some people don’t like the wraparound
    design because they don’t like the looks of it. If you’re looking for a fashion show, get
    yourself another pair of glasses that you wear off the water. That’s my best advice because when you’re
    on the water, you need your equipment to work for you in order for you to catch more fish. The wraparound design is to kind of block
    the light on the side here, that sort of thing is what you want. One other thing, if you noticed, this is a
    copper lens or copper mirror finish, they come in all kinds of finishes. I’ve seen green, blue, amber, there’s all
    kinds of different…I like the copper. This is a gray shade with copper lens that
    is best suited for bright sunny days like today and you’re fishing in shallow water. What the lenses do, the mirrored lenses cut
    out a certain bandwidth of light. Not a lot. It doesn’t like eliminate it, but it reduces
    the amount of light coming in of a certain bandwidth. And, in this case, it cuts down on some of
    that bright sunshine when you’re fishing in freshwater. Saltwater, you’re out with nothing but water
    all around. You don’t have land like this. And so, there’s a lot of blue rays. So, a blue-mirrored finish actually is better
    for saltwater fishing. You don’t have to look in shallow water there
    either. But this is what I like best for fishing in
    shallow water. Last thing I want to talk about is a little
    bit about care. Most glasses like this come with a lanyard. And you can also buy lanyards aftermarket
    but use them. Definitely use them. I know you, you drop them, you misplace them,
    you lose them, you put them down on your seat after you caught a fish and then guess what? You either to sit down on them and break them
    or you can step on them. The lanyards or free, use them. It took me a while to get used to mine. I didn’t start using a lanyard until a couple
    of years ago because these, you know, glasses get expensive. They’re over 100 bucks, so you want to take
    care of them. They usually come with a case, put them in
    the case when you’re done with them. So, again, you don’t accidentally step on
    them or crushing them putting something on them. They usually have a soft cloth to keep them
    clean, definitely use that soft cloth. Don’t use any cloth because you could scratch
    the lens, a little bit of care. It’s simple, basic stuff, guys. A lot of us don’t do it, but when you’re spending
    over 100 bucks on a pair of glasses, take the time to take care of them and they’re
    going to last you as long as you take care of them. I have a pair of glasses that’s over 30 years
    old now that I use for driving my truck now, but they will last you if you take care of
    them. Anyway, I hope that really helps you figure
    out what glasses work best for you. For more tips and tricks like this, visit