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    BALAZS’ REVENGE –  PLANTED FISH TANK BUILD FOR REAL
    Articles, Blog

    BALAZS’ REVENGE – PLANTED FISH TANK BUILD FOR REAL

    March 13, 2020


    What is this Tommy? I can’t take this! I can not take this! I can’t! I need to do something about this! Check this out! Check what happened previously on Green Aqua! Is this really yours? Today we’re gonna do something else. Today, we’re gonna scape this Styline set from Oase, the Green Aqua way. Welcome to the beautiful world of aquascaping! And what is the Green Aqua way? It’s the CO2, strong lighting, perfect hardscape. I started gluing together wood. Which I’ve never done before, but it works like magic. What I did is I glued these two pieces together, with the Impa Ancora glue. So what I’m trying to do, is to have a very complicated tree scape in this 70 liter tank. And by the end of this video, you guys are gonna see this one fully planted, the other one… You know, how it was. And you’re gonna decide, which one you like best. I already know the answer! So this is easy! I’m planning to put this in the background, behind the centerpiece, but the problem is that this branch is too long. Also, I need to cut the top, because this is a closed-top tank. We’re gonna glue this, and let’s see where it takes us! And everything goes back into its place. You can see that I’m fitting the light, every time that I place the wood back. Because I really wanna see the shadows and the highlights in the tank. We didn’t wash the hardscape. I think we should have washed the hardscape. But we’re gonna fill up the tank with water and we’re gonna drain it at the same time and we’re gonna wash everything through. It’s like a sculpture, I quite like it. I would encourage everybody, to buy a lot of small pieces and then tie them together, or apply glue, or whatever your style is. You can build really cool structures with that. Check this out! Would you be able to do this, just by using one wood? So what we have to do now is to find proper Red Moor wood branches and start to apply them onto the scape itself. I really need to add a lot of detail, using these Red Moor wood pieces for this, because it’s gonna have a sophisticated, very detailed look, end result! So I’m gonna glue the Red Moor wood onto the Iron wood now. I’m just gonna find a proper angle for that. The Red Moor wood and the Iron wood will be the same color. So with time, all of them are gonna be dark brown in color. We use the black glue here, because I think that the Red Moor wood and also the Iron wood will get brownish in color, almost dark brown. So actually the glue itself will disappear much better, if I use a darker glue. Pick up small pieces, apply them together. Use them like bricks, to build a house. This is the structure! You need to build it! You cannot buy it ready. For me, this was probably the most important element, in what Josh Sim said in his tutorial video. [Josh Sim] Ladies and gentlemen! Four pieces of Lego, to create this thing? You will know by now, it is impossible! To create the thing, that we are trying to do just now, you need a full set of Lego. Did you like the sound? Alright! I think the bulk of the hardscape construction work is ready, if not all of it! I’m quite happy with how it turned out to be! I already can tell you, that this is gonna be a maintenance nightmare! But anyways, we’re gonna take all the wood pieces out, we’ve got three of them. I’m gonna start to plant them outside the tank. First, I’m gonna just pinch these edges, tips down a little bit, because I said that I want to have a nice and natural look to the end of the wood. I’m going to start to add the moss first, because I need to tie the moss on the branches. I’m gonna use the ADA Terra Line. Okay, two are ready! A hundred to go! This is probably seven pieces of wood. Alright! I don’t think, that we need more. I’m gonna introduce the Anubias now. I will go with the Bucephalandra sintang and I’m gonna use my ADA small tweezers and add these into the cracks. So the whole thing will be green. I’m not using red plants at all! So what you can do is actually introduce the mat there, together with the moss. See? This is empty here. This was probably the total of what we used in the previous video for the whole tank. This I need to be very careful with, because this is gonna be in the foreground. I’m gonna leave the legs as they are, I’m gonna apply some moss between the legs. ’60s style! So let’s continue with the third and the last wood! And what I’m gonna do is the same like I did before. I don’t want uniform, big patches of something, on the wood. The more detail you have, the more variety you have, the better. I’m trying to use the moss in dark places. Below branches and stuff. That will look more natural, because moss usually grows on the northern side of trees. So this is a smaller plant. It can go into small cracks. I’m gonna start from the top. Because that’s more important, to be filled with plants. I’m just trying to find any spots that I’m missing. Okay! This is ready! So let’s introduce everything into the tank! We’ve been working for four hours and the tank is still empty. Oh no, I broke it, just as I introduced it! And I also introduced it upside down! Power Sand Advance S! This is the Base Layer Fertilizing Substrate, it’s absolutely needed. It’s a good quality substrate. It already has all the nutrients, that are needed for the plants. You can actually have it all the way to the front glass. No problem, because the soil will cover it anyway. And it’s not visible because of Oase’s black tape. I really like this set. It’s quite cool, it covers the bottom. I think Oase has made a good job with this. Except for the open top, but that’s my personal preference. General plant subtrate! We’re gonna have the ADA Amazonia. So I’m gonna put a screw on! This whole thing just became very hectic! Maybe I can drill it. I can feel that we are winning! Then finally we go to the Amazonia powder, which goes on top. I think I’m going to use some Frodo stones in the foreground. Okay, let’s add the sand! Oops! A total of four lights will go into it. Remember that the tank that we used before, only had two lights. But we’re gonna have CO2 injection, pressurized CO2 in this tank, so it’s much better, to have a vibrant and cool lighting. And we can do that, because we have CO2. I’ve got some Fissidens fontanus, which is a beautiful, beautiful moss. I’m gonna use this everywhere in the tank. We’re going with the Micranthemum Sp., which is basically Monte Carlo. I’m going to put Monte Carlo in the front. Staurogyne repens at the back. So I’m gonna start adding Monte Carlo in the background as well, along the path to the right side of the path. Three pots of Cyperus helferi to the background. I need more Anubias to the bottom of the trees. Okay, I’m gonna start to add the grass here, in the sand. I will just let it go. I don’t want the sand to be very sterile. Don’t forget, that we have substrate, clay-based substrate beneath. Beautiful Crypto parva! It will go here. See how cool it is? It adds a lot of nice detail now. Alright! We are done with the planting! We are done with the hardscape. 20:45, it took us seven hours to build this tank, versus two hours. I’m gonna fill it up with water now, because tomorrow I wanna show that to Viktor and Tommy. They want to see what I did and you guys are gonna hear their verdict. So here it is! Oh, hi there! Oh! I was supposed to do it with Viktor, but I don’t know where he is, but you’re here. [Tommy] So please, come with me!
    [Steven] Okay, sure! Huge improvement, I think! What do you think? Very natural! So with the low-tech tank I think Balazs did his best. And I’m actually surprised, how well the plants grew in, considering there’s no CO2. You look at it, right away you can tell what it is. Right? Right away, you know what he was trying to do. It’s a forest! He had enough Lego pieces, to build the forest! Exactly! Very good sense of nature! I see good shadows and lights, nice highlights! There’s detailed pieces, but there’s also big, strong pieces. It feels very natural. I think that if Balazs wants to increase the level of this tank even more, one thing I would do is finish my trees. [Tommy] Okay! He actually has a YouTube channel, where he does these detailed explanations of aquascapes, so if you want more… SteveScapes, please check it out! Check him out! And for this video, well, it’s a huge improvement. So yeah, kudos Balazs! Yeah, it’s a forest! This is your work! That’s… Forget about it! Okay, so which one do you like better? The low-tech budget version, or the high-tech Green Aqua version? This is why we did these two videos for you guys, to see the difference between highlighting, CO2 injection, lush plants, versus maybe six months for the low-tech version. Feel free, to copy anything, that you like. You wanna see the original idea that I had? Here it is! This is a tank made by our Polish friends. I really like that tank. But you can see now, that there’s a big difference between that tank and this tank. So copying a tank is not a problem at all! Alright, so I hope that you guys liked this video. If you did, please do not forget to subscribe, hit that like button if you liked this work and if you liked this work better, than the other one! Don’t hit the dislike button, if you don’t! Anyways, we’ll see you next week! Goodbye!

    MPC Live Track View Vs MPC Live Track Mutes
    Articles, Blog

    MPC Live Track View Vs MPC Live Track Mutes

    March 9, 2020


    what up thank you guys for joining in today
    I am BK back with another Benga today I’m not quite sure what the video is
    gonna be titled it’ll be titled what its title the time you’re seeing it but I
    wanted to help someone who is asking me to give them a comparison video based
    around the video that I did a while ago surrounding the playlist when you use
    the FL the playlist like as if it’s FL studio and you format your song or your
    beat they wanted a comparison video saying that the MPC the track view egg
    when you’re exporting it it’s easier then it would be for song mode I beg to
    differ because to each his own but for somos no matter how many sequences I
    have it is easier for me to format the song that way opposed to having to
    bounce now each track to audio then you know organize it into a song boat so I’m
    gonna do a quick little cook up to to showcase that and uh you know we’ll go
    from there so I got some drum I don’t know what imma do but I’m gonna do
    something just to uh just to keep us going
    you all right so I got these drums nothing
    crazy just something to keep the groove going what I’m gonna do is on my export
    explode the are the track I’m going to explode it
    then I’m going to uh clear this I don’t need it alright so
    now got this sample and I’m uh I’m a layer it on top of these drums next thing I’m gonna do is I’m going to
    add in mixed in key this rope way today
    mixing key all right so selling me g-minor i boom I
    got the sample so now I’ma go to MPC one-shots and key groups if y’all got
    MPC one-shots and key groups the link is in the description you go ahead and grab
    it up I saw protein piano blue lace from MPC
    one-shots and key groups and what I’m doing I’m playing and pad perform oh I
    have banging mix a little mixolydian 4 loaded up that’s him banging
    progressions value 1 also on BK bangers calm if you ain’t get
    it go ahead and grab it and basically I’m not sure of the scale from that
    sample what I’m positive though is the actual the key that is sin
    so I’m just playing along with the the sample to layer it with an additional
    sale I’m gonna record that to say piano blue
    lace owner on a separate track and I’m I’m a plays uh I’m a layer it with the
    arc do a check for wondergirl guitar I’m a
    layer it on top of what’s going on Road in the book of Isabel yes in
    NPC one-shots and key groups and I’m gonna play the harp in a higher octave
    just to stack it now loading uh 808 from Bangor Italy I’m
    just not sure which one to load in so I got the Daytona loaded in I might not
    keep this one but I’m a mess with it go back in the pack will form Oh go into notes photochromatic
    you I’m down a few octaves sometimes when you when you’re in path
    before mode and you got notes mode open and you’re in chromatic sometimes depending on the scale like
    right now I’m in mixolydian it don’t sound right right so but if you go into
    notes instead of chromatic you just gotta find your rhythm and once you find
    your rhythm you good now what you can do is if you’re using the progressions you
    could go into progressions and I’m sorry I don’t have an additional camera to
    actually show you guys this but if you pay attention to the pads are enlarging
    it so you can actually see on the pads itself is showing you the actual keys from the progression
    right so what you can do is if the first pad is a a flat minor you’d be like all
    right so let me go back to the notes and the first pad is a
    and pay attention to the ones that you actually play but was it you play out in
    your pattern and then when you go to notes you can easily just play along all
    right so at this point is like I pretty much got everything that I need I can
    add more but for demonstration purposes I’m just going to keep it short and
    simple I’m just gonna mix this 808 a little bit to taste I’m also gonna go
    back into the the drums and mix this a little bit to taste as well all right so the challenge becomes now
    do you go the sole mode opposed to do you use the playlist way to to sequence
    your song I’m gonna show you the song mode way first
    although I show it all the time I’m gonna show you the song mode then I’m
    going to show you the length of time that it’s gonna take with actually
    bouncing out each track all right so let’s go to song mode I only have one
    sequence well I have two sequences but I’m only gonna use one for this and I’m
    gonna extent I’m gonna uh I’m gonna just do like I’m gonna do five for the
    purposes of this I want to keep it as short as I can I’m gonna do five five
    repeats I’m gonna convert it to a new sequence which is sequence three it
    opens up the first blank sequence it do it uh and then go back to main go to the
    track go to that sequence go to track mute and I have 13 tracks open I’m gonna
    mute out the ones that I don’t want which will mainly be the drums I’m a
    star like this sloppy work nonetheless I’m just trying
    to drive the point home this is sloppy this is not how I would normally do this
    but for the sake of video and demonstration purposes I’m keeping it
    short of course this will be a longer oh you know you’d have to intro you have
    the hook you’d have the verses and keep in mind
    when I’m when I’m doing this and with so mote and track mutes I’m originally a
    rapper right before producing and all that so in my mind I’m hearing where the
    chorus will go the hook and in my mind I’m hearing where the verse will go
    right and the intro and all that and I’m dropping out particular sounds
    particular elements to give the artists the vibe right you know you know you
    drop out certain song certain sounds and that becomes the verse if you bring back
    in everything that becomes the chorus right so in my mind this is the easiest
    way for me right so you got this how many bars is this it’s 40 bars you have
    this this is this would pretty much be it you can then go back in do your
    mixing add your limiter boost it up and all that I’m not gonna do that in this
    particular video but then you would just uh I got I know the hotkeys and shift
    command II and you export it I export it or bounce it as a mix down I could do it
    as a two track or I could uh separate the UM this the explode the tracks right
    if I explode the tracks I get to stem the track out I’m not gonna do that
    right now I’m just showing you what your options
    are you can stem it out right you can then also per say you want to go and you
    want to organize it or you can go to main in sequence right let me just
    show you you can bounce to sample the sequence but that’s gonna be a to track
    right so I’m a bouncer to sample just to show you I’m gonna track view or
    playlist view Rissa track new if you notice all the
    tracks are muted out right what that gave me was interior was supposed to
    give me an audio track yeah alright so it bounces this sample I didn’t bounce
    to a new audio track so it gave me a it gave me a bounce of the entire the
    entire joint that’s not what I want right so I’m gonna undo that I wanted to
    show you was bounce new track to bounce a new audio track you it bounces it to a new audio track and
    it mutes out all the the elements I mean that’s cool but you you can’t separate
    anything so I’m gonna undo that as well I’m gonna go back to sequence to which is everything and I’m
    gonna show you the time that it takes for you to bounce everything down to a
    Shrek I’m gonna edit it but imma show you right go to track one where’s my
    phone I don’t even have a phone I don’t have a
    timer right now but I’m gonna belt just a new audio track that’s track 1 right it mutes track 1 I
    got it then go to track to bounce to new audio track go back to MIDI go to track
    3 or 4 bounce to new audio track and I really want to do this in real time but
    it’s gonna take so long go back to MIDI go to the next track
    bout 2 new audio track and depending on how many bars you have like this is this
    is 40 bars so it’s not taking as long but this is 40 bars times however many
    right now I’m on track 5 and I have up to track 13 ago so I’m gonna pause this
    bounce everything down and then bring our back into a few nice so now I’m on
    the last track which is the 808 I’m gonna bounce it to the new audio
    track so now I have all the tracks are bounce I’m gonna go to track view I’m gonna
    close out the MIDI so all I see is the audio I’m gonna lower this screen right
    here cuz I don’t need it right now I’m gonna close this out and this is 40
    track 40 bars in total right I want to extend it so our command well it doesn’t give me the command a
    option here cursor
    select all and then what is a command D to
    duplicate it just duplicated it but because I only
    have 40 bars oh no this is eight bars
    sorry for go up to 16 bars I now have everything there
    I can then just go here double the length I could double the length however many I
    want for this particular innocence I’m just gonna you know keep it short and
    brief I’m gonna use the mute tool opposed to
    using the eraser tool you can use the eraser tool if you want I’m gonna use
    the mute tool and I’m the mute out what I don’t want
    right in this way it just takes a little bit more time
    because you actually have to bounce out each individual element right right so once you have this and you have
    a set up however you want however it is that you want it to be set up you can
    then press shift command E or shift control if you want PC or you can go to
    uh to edit where’s that o file export as audio mix down and then you could choose
    the way that you wanna you want to explode it or export it if you if you’re
    gonna send out track outs to your artists or to engineer to to mix you’ll
    explode tracks or if you just want the two track
    you could uh you can export it that way you set you choose your file format you
    know WAV mp3 that’s what we all use and you know your bit ratio and your sample
    rate and that’s pretty much it man um to the gentleman who was accent about
    that I hope this clarified it for you for me
    I’m I’m with song I’m with song mode track mutes all day in the MPC this way
    right here I showed it to you guys as as an option for all of you deaths that are
    coming from life um FL studios and you’re using an MPC software this is a
    familiar territory for you to me this way takes too long like if I was in
    studio one with this the way that you bounce the audio – audio track is way
    less time way less effort I could command a select all and bounce all the
    track’s one time opposed to having to go through different tracks to bounce them
    like it takes too long but whatever floats your boat if this is your Fung
    Shui – hey you feel me any comments or concerns posted up in
    the comment section and I’ll get back to you and my most earliest convenience
    I am BK this was another banger thank you guys for joining in today please do
    stop by BK bengis comm pick up your copy of MPC one-shots and key groups I
    utilized it in this beat today also banging 808 value1 some people was
    asking me about 808 and I brought it to you also
    pick up your copy of bangin progressions Volume one I use that to play along with
    the sample today banging progressions borrowed chords is still free 99 on the
    site I see a lot of you guys are still downloading it and I thank you but
    gentlemen show some support on on you know I mean picking up these expansion
    packs because you know your boy is in the market for business you feel me
    that’s pretty much it male of a light till next time enjoy the rest of your
    day peace you

    Is Fixing up an old sailboat w/ 500 ROTTEN BLISTERS even worth it ??  -Patrick Childress Sailing #60
    Articles, Blog

    Is Fixing up an old sailboat w/ 500 ROTTEN BLISTERS even worth it ?? -Patrick Childress Sailing #60

    March 6, 2020


    We need to get this old blister covered sailboat to looking like this
    and this is how we did it part two of major hull blister repairs hello I’m Patrick and I’m Rebecca on the
    sailboat Brick House a Valiant 40. We have had
    some comments people asking why don’t we just go out and buy a new sailboat
    instead of fixing up this old 44 year old sailboat. Buy a new sail boat?? i would
    rather have 500 blisters then spend 500 grand! yeah a new Swan 48 would be okay
    but the reality is a 44 year old sailboat suits our economy just fine and
    especially a valiant 40 I don’t know if any other design especially with the
    interior layout that I like as well as the Valiant 40 so these old sailboats if
    you buy them at the right price if they’ve been somewhat maintained there’s
    a lot of hidden value there. we used to flip houses that is we would
    buy old houses that needed work fix them up and sell them oftentimes within a
    month and make a comfortable profit that is what helped to get Rebecca and I out
    retired and sailing at a fairly young age! We see sailboats in the same way. Our
    Valiant 40 had a lot of tremendous value locked in it and we just had to
    bring it out. I’m gonna put my sunglasses on too because it’s very bright out here that’s why I don’t put sunglasses on my
    head most of the time I always lose them but yeah these sailboats like with
    the Valiant 40 has a lot of potential. If you just can sail away on it enjoy
    crossing oceans and in these foreign countries where it’s very reasonable, do
    the boat work to fix them up which is what we have been doing. I have been waiting
    for about five years to get to a place like South Africa to do all of the
    blister repairs. We knew it would be extensive, it would take a long time and
    a lot of work but everything that you saw in the first video and you’ll see in
    this video all the blister repairs and all the painting cost us about $4,000 USD
    for materials and labor. That isn’t counting my own time in labor and it
    does not count the Coppercoat that’s on the body but we feel as though just like
    flipping a house we have increased the value tremendously. We may not sell the
    boat for profit in the end but we’ve had a very cheap place to live, we’ve had a
    lot of great adventures and we’ll certainly get a lot more for it than
    when we first started out. Anything you want to say? No. You have to say something! You say
    yeah anybody has a Swan 48 you want to give us… OK if anyone wants to give us a Swan 48 we’re all ears – go for it! yeah but the reality is a new sailboat just is such a
    fast depreciating asset you know just like a car as soon as you drive it off
    the lot it’s you’ll never get what you paid for it again and that’s why we feel
    these old boats have a lot more value than any new boat ever can have. any sail boat
    even a new one is a maintenance treadmill. If you don’t want to do boat work,
    don’t buy a boat. And that’s part of it too. You have to be willing to get your
    hands dirty and work right alongside the helpers. you just can’t be throwing money
    at contractors who oftentimes just screw things up. Get in, do the work
    yourself, get the proper tools, and learn how to do it and you can have a very
    nice asset. So let’s get into finishing up these blister repairs… into the final
    faring and sanding. so let’s get to work! It was a lot of work to open up all of
    these resin blisters and prepare the blisters for the laminating of new
    fiberglass with epoxy resin to get everything ready the process the epoxy
    resin used is Gurit SP 106 with slow hardener and the fiberglass cloth is
    1708 we got all of those materials from AMT Composites in Durban South Africa oh
    I forgot to mention in the last video and I’ll do it real quick here with
    these thin rollers when they get used they get really plugged up with fiberglass resin
    and they become useless. but they can clean up very quick and easily by using
    a paint stripping heat gun just melt that stuff out of there give it a good
    brushing with a wire brush and couple of minutes it will look like new.
    The two-part epoxy faring compound we used is Seafare 600 which we also
    bought through AMT Composites but as you can see just using some putty knives or
    some sheetrock compound knives they just weren’t large enough to do an adequate
    job we had to find a better system a better application tool to help speed up
    the process and do a better job so we started experimenting with some leftover
    fiberglass panels and also some plexiglass panels and each had its own
    thickness and ability to fold perfectly into these outside curves and the inside
    curves and the plexiglass panel is a little thicker so it could be held very
    straight for very straight work like the keel to Hull joint curve the only thing
    is there to be absolutely no defects on that application edge of these new
    screeds but that was no problem we just got out the router picked up a piece of
    aluminum which was actually an old curtain track and used that as a
    straight edge for the router to follow to make a perfectly straight edge on
    both of these new screeds you can actually see how wide that piece of
    plastic is so I actually cut it in half lengthwise and made two screeds out of
    it but you can see here look at that router
    guide that bearing was just about ready to fall off I got lucky on that one good
    lesson to always check the set screw on the very bottom of that collar and make
    sure it’s good and tight depending on which way the wind blew we generally set
    up our old mainsail as a dust containment cloth
    although the contractor is working on the surrounding boats weren’t quite so
    concerned where their dust blew but what really helped out to contain our dust
    and make our cleanup much easier during the smoothing process of all that
    faring compound was to use a little cheapy vacuum cleaner that hooked up to
    the dust collection system of the random orbit sander and it didn’t use
    traditional bags for filtering they used water which was a very great collection
    system saved us a lot of work a lot of cleanup during this whole process hey that’s just amazing look this is the all over in the air on
    the ground on our work I mean the solid mud is about half of my finger deep
    incredible so after all that sanding we had to make sure that we got all the
    dust off of the surface in preparation for the next step in the process we
    found that washing with a scrub brush on the end of long handle with a lot of
    fresh water was not adequate when the surfaces dry if you wipe your hand over
    there would always be a layer of residual dust that did not come up so we
    found that wrapping a terry cloth towel around that scrub brush and then washing
    the boat maybe with a little dishwashing detergent in the water as well that
    eliminated all the residual dust that we were absolutely sure to make sure that
    all of that dishwashing detergent was well washed away from the surface of the
    boat using the water hose we washed at night because by morning the ground and
    everything else would be dry however during the day if we had to wash the
    boat we would use three buckets of water because we could not afford to use the
    hose and be slopping around in a mud pit one bucket with clean water would first
    be used to wipe down the boat we’d go over that with the next clean bucket of
    water and then follow that with a third clean bucket of water and it was one
    person’s job then to continually be emptying out those water buckets and
    refilling them with more clean water and this worked out really well occasionally
    we would go over the surface with a heat gun just mildly to make sure that
    everything was very dry but otherwise it did come out extremely clean with that
    three rag three rinse process one day we ran out of the two-part epoxy ready-mix
    faring compound so we had to mix up our own using the epoxy resin after stirring
    the hardener and the resin for a full two minutes then we mixed in a spoonful
    of Cabosill and then started mixing in the microballoons of course there’s
    other fillers of that would be very sandable but they weren’t available to
    us had to use the microballoons and we had
    marked in the tin can with a magic marker the level of which to fill the
    can so we’d have just the right amount of microballoons in the mix so we could
    duplicate this mix time and time again very quickly with no guesswork but
    the big problem was this stuff sags no matter how much of any of the fillers we
    put in there and the Cabosil it still ran it still sagged it was not easy to
    spread and get a nice even finish it meant a lot of work with these long
    boards in all the sanding that we had to do the only way you can get a good
    finish on these boats without a lot of waviness
    is with longboards and a lot of arm muscle flexion there’s no easy way I
    searched and I searched and I could only find one extremely expensive longboard
    that had a power cord attached to it and that’s made in Europe and we just
    couldn’t get that here 58% import duties plus shipping and everything else it’s
    just cheaper to hire a lot of people with strong arms so I made the longboards out of some scrap fibreglass panel that we had laying around and they
    were just wide enough so where they would fit side-by-side on a long roll of
    sandpaper holes were drilled in the fiberglass board the head where the
    screw if the flat head screw would fit was countersunk the little wood handle
    was glued and screwed to the board and we would be all set some of these boards
    had two handles some of the board’s had four handles it was nice to have their
    variety and then a rubber piece of rubber that I found laying around the
    yard was contact cemented sometimes they call it contact adhesive to the bottom
    of the longboard and that would give a nice backing for the sandpaper
    conforming to some of these tight radiuses on the hull one long piece of
    sandpaper did not work out as it would buckle in the middle
    it was far better than so we found to cut two or three pieces which is best to
    run the length of a longboard spray on adhesive just did not work well it
    wasn’t strong enough to attach a sandpaper to the longboard so then we
    always used the contact cement out of the can. I checked with every contractor in the
    boatyard, and they all said there is no easy way out of all of this hand longboard
    sanding and puttying and faring and sanding and puttying and faring and
    sanding, day after day, to get it right. some people familiar with this type of
    work would call our longboards short boards because often times on much larger
    projects very high-end projects boards that are 15 feet long would be used that
    is four and a half meters and take four and sometimes five people to operate but
    this is not a marina Queen it’s not a race boat what we’re doing here turns
    out to be very acceptable and the nice even finish throughout and very adequate
    for a hard used ocean crossing sail boat there are different techniques for
    finding the low spots or the high spots in the faring process but generally we
    could see them or feel them easily with our hand but we added black white or
    blue pigment to the faring compound and that helped greatly to show where we
    were and where we needed to go with the fairing but anytime we did find a lower
    the high spots that needed attention we would generally circle them with a
    different colored magic marker one day like red and maybe a green one on
    another day to help avoid any confusion and the day finally came to where we
    could mark the waterline we raised it up yet another inch and that would be a
    total of three inches from the original waterline as this boat came from the
    factory and before we ever got started on this project we put pieces of blue
    tape along either the cap rail or the rub rail and then measured down from
    there to the existing waterline to preserve those measurements and try to
    get them back at the end of this project so all of those measurements then were
    measured straight down from their individual station and marked with a
    magic marker on the hull of the boat and then we took a fishing line and strung
    it up and taped it to each one of those measurement points
    then it took a lot of eyeballing and moving that fishing line up and down
    just a hair and more tape to hold it in new places to get that curve that
    existed before we got started on this project once that was accomplished then
    we took new tape and followed the fishing line just to the top side of it
    where then the fishing line can be pulled away and we had whatever water
    line that was left this was not a perfect system but we did the best we
    could with it if you know of a better way of getting back that water line then
    please leave the information in the comments down below and everybody I’m
    sure will benefit from it all the faring and sanding was done now we were
    finally in the homestretch we use all epoxy resin and all epoxy
    fairing compounds on this blister repair project so osmosis – the intrusion of water into
    the hull, just would not be a problem. However I still wanted to give
    four coats of epoxy resin – as a barrier coat – below the waterline so that we would have a nice
    hard evenly consistent skin in preparation for the Coppercoat
    antifouling that we would be putting on and just to make me feel better about
    the project following standard epoxy mixing instructions we mixed our slow
    hardener with the resin at least two minutes before applying it to the hull
    rolling it on and then smoothing it out with a roller that we had cut in half
    and we applied it wet on wet that is one layer that we
    applied once it just set up and it was still a little tacky to the touch we
    went on and applied the next coat and this gave excellent adhesion to each
    successive coat four coats of two-part primer around and
    around until we just ran out of primer to use this was some South African made
    stuff that was recommended by one of the contractors in the boatyard so it wasn’t the
    name brand that the most international people would recognize and of course
    everywhere in the world there has got to be a bug that just feels like they’ve
    got to jump into wet paint all the surfaces were sanded with 320 grit paper
    with a random orbit sander before priming and I would have put a lot of
    money on saying that everything was perfect there were absolutely no
    blemishes and how long how much money I would have lost on that bet it’s amazing
    what primer will show up in the way the tiniest little defects so we use this
    stuff called spot putty it looks like tar but it dries extremely
    fast and hard and it was just the perfect party one part putty
    for filling up all these tiniest little dings or scratches or defects and then
    those would get sanded with 320 grit paper and and then they were ready for
    painting we wouldn’t prime over these pretty rough-looking isn’t it but that
    just as smooth as anybody could do with this stuff so it did take a little bit
    of extra sandy we went through three of these cheapy
    little vacuum cleaners that uses water for collection rather than a dust bag
    the bearings inside just kept burning out but it wasn’t just those a little
    black patch spots that we used the spot putty on the entire hull where it was
    primed you got sanded again with a six-inch random orbit sander with 320
    grit paper but we also used the little palm sander with the same grit paper in
    some of the areas that were a bit more curved and more difficult to get to with
    the big 6-inch random orbit sander. Sipho was on the spray gun with three of us doing
    everything that needed to be done to make it possible for him to just keep on
    spraying around and around the boat we moved a scaffolding his hoses and one
    man was dedicated to mixing up the two-part paint and again that was just
    generic paint made locally that was suggested by one of the local
    contractors. That is our old mainsail covering up the catamaran in front of us
    they just had their boat painted and then we don’t need any oopss with their
    paint job. Sipho certainly had the hardest job he couldn’t stand around and take a
    little break every now and then… always moving, and always spraying, and he worked around and around, and that was good enough. After 4 coats we were done what a
    nice feeling I mean I’m the boss I’m paying the bills I don’t want a marina
    queen but these guys said no way we’re not done and I lost that argument I
    didn’t have the heart to tell them that this is a long range hard core hard used
    cruising sailboat I don’t need an absolutely perfect job
    but they would not relent there were just the tiniest little defects the
    tiniest little pinholes primer and paint does not cover defects it only
    accentuates them and I did not have the heart though to tell them good enough
    was good enough in this case so they went at it and sanded down the white again, filling
    up all the tiniest little defects you could imagine and took special viewing
    from one angle or another to see them and then started wet sanding and also some
    dry sanding all with the 320 and actually 400 grit paper all to get this
    surface ready for another four coats of white paint the green and white color
    combination is the age-old Valiant 40 color scheme and this time we got away
    with four coats of green and you didn’t have to put on anything so now all that
    was left to do is put on the newly chromed trim on the hawspipe
    give it a good application of Coppercoat which is video number 57 and then
    apply prop speed to the propeller and apply Propspeed on the shaft and prop. Propspeed is a silicone finish
    that has worked out very well for us in the past and we’ll do a video on the
    Propspeed application one of these days. And after eight months of boat work,
    this old boat is finished and ready to go back in the water. We fully believe
    that it’s stronger and better now than when it rolled out of the factory in
    1976 44 years ago and just like the houses that we used to fix up and sell
    for profit in Rhode Island we fully believe that this boat is now worth far
    more than when we started out 12 years ago. We have all the receipts for the
    materials and all the time cards for the labor but it would take hours and hours
    to figure it all out to get an exact amount of cost, so Rebecca and I will
    both guesstimate that the materials and labor to do all the blister repairs. and
    this is not counting the cost of the Coppercoat bottom paint, but it costs us about
    four thousand US dollars to do this blister repair and the paint job but the
    boat work isn’t done. Rebecca wants to put on lithium batteries, and also a hybrid hot
    water heating system. SO now we sail away from Richards Bay and move on down to Cape Town where we
    will take care of those boat projects, but it’s been a fun great stop in Richard Bay…
    we went to the game parks and met a lot of great people but like with every
    cruiser there comes that date that you just have to leave…and sail away!

    The Ned Rig: Proven Tactics You Need To Know | KastKing | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    The Ned Rig: Proven Tactics You Need To Know | KastKing | Bass Fishing

    March 6, 2020


    What is happening, fisherman friends? My name
    is Devon, coming to you today on behalf of KastKing and BassResource. Welcome to another
    episode. What in the world do we have here today? Yeah,
    you guessed it. Hey, diddly-ho, neighbor. It’s the Ned Rig. That’s right. Fall is here.
    Winter is around the corner. This is a deadly bait this time of year. So what is it, what
    is the Ned Rig? I’m gonna take you through that. I’m gonna take you through some modifications
    that I’ve learned fishing it the past few years that have made me more successful with
    it. What you partnered up with, the rod reel line, how you approach presenting this, and
    the where you’re gonna present it, how to fish it, and what happens when you get a bite. So the Ned Rig simply explained, it’s two
    pieces, the jig head and a soft plastic. Now, the jig head, there are a few different ones
    you can use. They’re all gonna have the same qualities though, or the qualities that you
    should look for when you’re selecting a jig head. They’re gonna be a moon shape or a rounded
    shape, and those shapes lend themselves very well to standing up. Now, probably the most popular soft plastic
    to put on these is the Z-Man ElaZtech Ned Rig, the Ned TRD. This bait is awesome because
    it floats and it will present your Ned Rig like that. Now, I’ll get into it later, but
    you can also use a Senko style bait, but just be aware that a lot of those are not gonna
    float. So, you want the rounded head, so on the bottom
    it lands itself to floating up, rocking on that head really well. There are also gonna
    be small light wire hooks. We’ll get into that, but you don’t wanna a big, huge, fat
    five-aught hook. You want a lightweight hook to go with your lightweight line and set up.
    Okay, so those are the jig heads you’ll be looking for. Now, the soft plastic, because I said I usually
    go with the Z-Man Finesse TRD. This is the two-and-a-half-inch but it also comes in a
    four-inch, the larger bait. Now, most people believe the bigger the bait you fish, the
    bigger the bites you’re gonna get. I’ve had success both ways. I’ve fished the small one
    and caught, you know, three pounders. I’ve fished the big one and caught little, tiny
    fish that were just barely bigger than this bait. So, it really goes both ways. Really,
    it’s gonna depend on what you have confidence in, your lake, your fishery, what works for
    you. So those are the jig heads. Those are the
    plastics. So, what are some modifications I do to these? Let’s take a look. All right,
    so modifications. There are two main modifications that I’ve been using that have helped me a
    lot when fishing the Ned Rig. So the first one isn’t as much of a modification as it
    is a money and plastic saver. So this is the back end of a Senko, five-inch Senko. You
    know, normally, my four-aught hook would be up here and this is where the hook point normally
    would be coming in on my Senko and that part gets, you know, tore up, the top half of it
    where my hook has been tore from catching fish. So I just take that back part of it, cut it
    off, and if you look, it’s the perfect imitation for a Senko. Now, notice that these are made
    of completely different materials. The Ned TRD is extremely stretchy. The Senko is not.
    If you pull that, it’s got so much salt in there, it’s gonna rip apart. Now, this does
    have its place. When I get to ways to fish it, the Senko style bait works just as well,
    if not better, than this in some ways of fishing it, and I’ll go over that. So that’s the first
    little modification or hack that I use. Save your old Senkos and use them for Ned Rigs
    later in the year. So, that’s number one. Number two. This was something I learned from
    Brian Latimer. I wish I could take the credit, but I cannot. I saw it on one of his videos
    and it is awesome. So, the Ned Rig, when you fish it around trees or rocks, sometimes it
    can get hung up. So the way to fix that is to rig this weedless. Now, this only works
    with the Z-Man Finesse TRD, or you know, any of their TRDs with the ElaZtech because of
    how strong the plastic is. So, I’m gonna run my hook up through, just like that. Now, this
    is only to get the line threaded on. So I’ve got some eight-pound line here, I’m gonna
    put the line just under the barb of that hook. I’m gonna bring my plastic up over it, like
    that. I will do some movie magic and get a knot
    tied on this. Just like that, we got a knot, thank you for some movie magic there. Okay,
    so the reason I’ve done this is because you will slide your Ned Rig down onto the top
    of that hook on your jig head, and you’re gonna take the back part and rig it just like
    you would a Texas Rig, like so. What that gives you is a weedless Ned Rig. Now, this
    is awesome for rocks because when you’re going along, it’s not as apt to get stuck in the
    rocks when that soft part hits. The soft part hits and it just kinda rolls and pulls through. Now, as far as sitting on the bottom, it’s
    still gonna sit up like this, straight up, as long as you’re using this ElaZtech. And
    as far as the bite, I’ve got that so it’s just barely sticking out there. This is awesome
    for rocks. That head bounces off. It’s a very cool little modification that will help save
    you some baits. Okay, so you’ve seen the two modifications that I use. Let’s go ahead and
    move on to, well, what’s my approach? First, let’s talk about trees and brush. The
    Ned Rig is a great bait to fish this stuff. You just have to be careful and remember your
    approach, “Vs for trees.” I’m not gonna be throwing over real deep into, you know, the
    midst, the real thick stuff, because I’m only fishing if I can get away with it in open
    water, four-pound line, six-pound line is a go to, or eight, when I’m fishing around
    brush like this. But I’m gonna attack the Vs, so spots like this where I can throw between
    and get out. Especially if you’re a bank fisherman, you don’t wanna be throwing all the way over
    the top of this, you know, let’s say it’s just above the water here, you don’t wanna
    throw all the way over top of this, have a fish catch it here and swim down. You’re over
    this branch, he’s probably got you under branches over here, so you wanna fish Vs. A V here,
    throw your little one here, a V, anywhere where you lure is gonna come straight back
    up to you. A V here. You might have to now move around the cover,
    but trust me, it will make fishing brush and sticks a whole lot easier if you remember
    to fish “the Vs on the trees.” The next big thing you wanna think about with this little
    bait is accuracy and presentation. So, on the brush, accuracy and presentation is gonna
    be big, you know, fishing in those Vs. But on grass lines, drop-offs, isolated rocks,
    that’s where this is gonna shine, especially in the fall to winter transition, or late
    fall, fish love to be sitting on the drop-offs. That’s a place where they can go out deep
    where the water is gonna be warmer and they can come back up shallow to feed. Ned Rig, in my opinion, honestly, really shines
    in clear to just sort of stained water. Once you start getting into, you know, the dingier
    or muddy water, the Ned Rig just doesn’t do as well. It doesn’t displace a lot of water,
    it doesn’t have any movement to displace water, it’s just a stick. Stay in the zone, okay?
    I’m talking about the strike zone. So, for example, let’s say this is a rock pile. I’m
    throwing it all around the rock pile. I’m gonna let it fall in slack line here, pop
    it a couple of times, then I’m reeling it back in. If I throw that out and that’s 10
    yards from the boat or 10 yards off land, I’m not gonna fish it the whole way back.
    That’s not gonna be an area where I’m gonna catch a lot of fish. Focus on the strike zone,
    next to the grass lines, especially those drop-offs and around the wood. Stay accurate
    with it and I guarantee you will catch more fish on this. So, how do you fish these? Well, there are
    a few ways that work excellent to fish the Ned Rig. The one thing that stays in common
    with all those is the fall. So, on your cast, you wanna make sure that you let the Ned Rig
    fall on slack line. That is important. When it falls down, it’s gonna kinda give a spirally
    spin motion down, it’s gonna look completely lifelike as it’s spiraling down, as opposed
    to if you threw it over here and I’m trying to get it to fall straight down over here.
    If I throw it and right away engage my bail or don’t let it fall on slack line, it’s gonna
    swim like this and glide down. I don’t want that. I want it to fall on slack line. So
    from there, you can do small hops after it gets on the bottom and work a little bit.
    Pop, pop. Let it sit. Remember, it’s gonna stand straight
    up. Pop, pop, pop. Okay, so you’ve got the pop. You’ve got the drag. After it hits, you’re
    just gonna slowly drag it along and leave it alone. Slowly drag it along, leave it alone.
    And that’s why earlier, I said that when you use the stick baits, this is a technique that
    works great for those because I’m not letting it sit and wanting it to stand straight up.
    I’m dragging along and it kinda falls. So it looks like a fish or a bait, you know,
    just barely holding on with just a little bit of life to it. So, with that rig, I like
    to have the rounded head and the stick bait, and it works awesome. As opposed to the actual
    Z-Man head, if I can find it here, the actual Z-Man head, when you drag it, it’s at a 90-degree
    angle. So when I drag that in the rocks and such,
    I’ve got a really high chance of having my knot get caught up in something, get some
    nicks on it and break when I’m just dragging it along. When you hop it, you don’t notice
    that as much because you’re bringing it off the bottom. But lift and drop. If you notice
    that you’re really getting bit right on that initial drop, you can try lifting your rod
    tip up a couple feet and letting it fall on spiral down again on slack line. Very important,
    not taught line. Pull it up, let it fall on that slack point before you reel anything.
    As soon as you see it, you know, either do something weird or change motion, then you
    can reel into it and see if you have a fish, but you have to let it fall on slack lines. When you get a bite, the Ned Rig, you don’t
    wanna be setting a hook on these. All right? So, you throw it out, you feel a bite, all
    you’re going to do is reel down on it. I lift it up over my right shoulder at a 45-degree
    angle and just start reeling into it. There’s no popping, there’s no hooks sitting, no jarring.
    I’m just gonna reel into that fish. These light wire hooks, notice I’m just barely touching
    my finger and it’s biting into it. That’s what’s so awesome about these little tiny
    light wire hooks. You can imagine as a needle, a needle versus a big thick nail. If you’re
    gonna get a shot, do you wanna get a shot with a needle or do you wanna get a shot with
    a big, huge, thick nail? Heck no, you want the little needle. Because
    it goes in easier, there’s less resistance, less friction. It’s a tiny, tiny, little diameter
    piece of wire that’s going in that fish’s mouth. Once you’ve done that, you wanna make
    sure that you keep a bend in your rod. That’s the big reason for fishing a medium or medium-light
    action rod with a light line is, I’m gonna use my line, my rod, and my drag to play that
    fish. So, you wanna have your drag to where if that fish starts to pull a little bit,
    it’s gonna take out your drag. I’m keeping the bend in my rod the whole time. Very important. What setups do I recommend? Well, generally,
    I’m always going to throw these on a medium-light or a medium action spinning rod. It’s gonna
    have a good parabolic bend. It’s gonna stay bent and allow me to fight that fish, as opposed
    to a heavy action rod that is very stiff. With the line, I’m gonna be using a light
    line. If starts to bend that rod, it’s just gonna be too powerful and it’s gonna break
    your line. That’s why you want a medium-light to a medium action spinning rod. I always,
    on my spinning reels, run for a Finesse application like this, 15-pound braid to my leader. The
    leader is the most important. If I am in real clear water, without any sort of obstruction,
    no big rocks, no brush, I usually go down to a four-pound line. If I’m fishing around any sort of vegetation
    or anything where I’m, you know, gonna possibly get a little bit of stuff on my line, I go
    up to a six. I go up all the way to an 8 or 10, if I’m fishing around brush. Now, it’s
    not gonna be as much of a Finesse application then. When I start getting up to that heavier
    line, the fish can see it. It does make a difference. You fish 4-pound all day and switch
    up to 10-pound and you will notice a difference in getting bites. So, don’t be afraid of the
    light line. One thing that does matter with your reel
    is it has to have very good drag. Smooth drag is not herky-jerky, smooth drag that pulls
    out. Now, with the medium-light or medium rod, you’re not gonna bend this hook out.
    You can see, this is just me grabbing it with two little fingers, I can bending that hook
    out almost. All right? These are not strong hooks, but they will hold and they will not
    bend if you’re not using a powerful rod. As well as coupling that with a reel that has
    really good drag, so if that fish does turn its head and going to make a move and try
    to pull that out, your line’s not gonna break, it’s just gonna start letting drag off your
    reel. Very important in fighting a fish in the Finesse application. Can’t stress that enough. Don’t horse the
    fish in. Tire the fish out. So he’s gonna make a run, reel up your slack, bring him
    in the boat. If he makes a run again, reel up your slack. Not horsing him. You can’t
    fish this like a frog, throw it out there and as soon as you get a bite, set it hard
    and start cranking him in. You’re either going to straighten the hook or break the line.
    Remember those modifications, the weedless modification and your stick bait. They work
    really well, and it will save you some money in the long run too. Make sure that your approach is accurate.
    You hit those high percentage areas, grass lines, wood, and especially the drop-offs
    this time of year, as well as any sort of isolated rocks. Those are gonna be awesome,
    especially if you’re up North fishing smallmouth once you get onto the main lake or out onto
    some of those flats. Oftentimes those flats are just big, huge flats of land and the only
    thing that’s down there is gonna be a little clump of rocks. If you can find those isolated
    rock piles, this is killer. You will get lots of fish on it. Use it as a follow-up bait,
    you know, if you’re running a moving bait through there and catch a few. Don’t be afraid
    to go back over that exact same area with a Finesse Ned Rig because you can get some
    of those cleanout fish that you wouldn’t have caught before. So, how to fish it. Remember there’s always
    gonna be a slack line presentation no matter what way you’re fishing it. Throw it out there
    and let it fall on slack line so it kind of corkscrews down. Very important. You can hop
    it. You can drag it. Just gotta find out what works for you. Sometimes you can even reel
    it real slow over the rocks so it kinda pops and hits those things. You just gotta listen
    to the fish. Listening to the fish means you have to try different, new things for them
    to tell you what they want. Once you get that bite, remember just reel into it. Don’t set
    the hook. Reel into it, lift the rod up, keep the rod bent. Make sure you’ve got your drag
    set so if the fish does make a run for it, he peels drag and doesn’t break your line. So that’s everything in a nutshell, guys.
    I hope this helped. Drop a comment below if you find these helpful. I really appreciate
    it. And leave any sort of comments for new videos down there. I love getting comments
    from people and hearing what they have to say. Drop that down there. Remember, no matter
    what keep casting, guys. You can’t catch the fish if you’re not casting. Until next time,
    take care.

    5 Best Lures For Spring Bass Fishing | Bass Fishing
    Articles, Blog

    5 Best Lures For Spring Bass Fishing | Bass Fishing

    March 3, 2020


    Glenn: Boy, he came out and smacked it hard. Come here, you. Got you on a jig, buddy. This is a good one. Got a face full of jig right there. It’s a good fish. He wanted it. Boy, he wanted it. That works. We’ll let you go, little buddy. Here we go. Hey, folks, Glenn May here with BassResource.com. And today, I wanna talk about the top five
    baits that I use throughout the springtime to catch fish. Now, understand, there’s a lot more other
    baits out there that work throughout the spring, so if I don’t mention your favorite bait,
    don’t get upset. But I’m talking about the top five baits that
    are effective from early spring, all the way through to post-spawn, that you can use effectively
    the entire time. So, let’s start with the jig. The jig is probably the most versatile lure
    you can have in your arsenal. It works year-round, but especially works
    well in the spring because the bass during this whole wintertime…crawdads have been
    buried up in the mud, they’ve been essentially hibernating, and haven’t been available to
    the bass. And those are protein-rich, slow-moving snacks
    that they love to feed on, especially as they’re getting ready for the spawn. And so, in the early spring, a jig is perfect
    for those conditions because it resembles a crawdad. But even throughout the spring, these fish
    will continue to feed on them, so it’s effective lure to use all the way through to the post-spawn. So, I’ll use a jig, starting out at the beginning
    of the season out on those deeper main lake points and secondary points, fishing it very
    slowly. And I’ll use a larger-sized jig with a bulky
    trailer on it because I want it to look like a nice, big meal for them. That’s an easy target because it’s moving
    super slow. It’s hard for them to resist that in this
    time of year. So, I’ll fish that way early in the season,
    and then as I move shallower, as the season progresses, I’ll start targeting every kind
    of cover that I can see, usually, with a 3/8-ounce jig with a Rage Craw trailer on it. I’m targeting stumps, laydowns, pockets of
    weeds, points in weeds, docks, and I’m also looking at the creek channels. If the creek bend swings up right next to
    the shoreline you got that steeper drop, that’s a great area to fish jigs, or on the inside
    bends of creeks back in the coves when it’s kind of a flat…if it’s got cover on it,
    especially, like stump field, or chunk rock, or maybe some weeds on it, that’s a great
    place to target jigs during the spring. And then, even during the spawn, you can throw
    jigs on top of beds and get bit that way. And even during the post-spawn, I like to
    throw jigs right up into balls of fry, and a lot of times, there’s bass that are guarding
    those fry, and they’ll come up and smack me, and you can catch them that way. I only ask if you’re catching fish during
    the spawn or post-spawn and they’re guarding fry, please release immediately so they can
    finish doing their thing to ensure a successful spawn. Now, the next bait that I like to use throughout
    the spring is a crankbait. During the early part of the season, I’m using
    a deeper-dive crankbait to target those deeper structure areas that I mentioned earlier. Great effective way to fish. And that’s when, you know, water temps are
    in the mid to upper 40s, I’ll start using a crankbait then. Yeah, fish will bite them, absolutely. So, that’s a great way to fish those deeper
    areas, and I crisscross those points and crisscross those ledges and drop-offs with those deeper-diving
    crankbaits. As the fish gets shallower and they get more
    active, I’ll switch over to a lipless crankbait like a chrome with blackback or a chrome with
    blueback, lipless crankbait, and I like to fish the outside weed lines or just the emerging
    weeds, like, big flats where the milfoil and the hydrilla are just starting to grow. It’s a great area to just burn a lipless crankbait
    across the top of it, particularly if there’s something…another piece of structure there. Say, for example, some boulders are scattered
    around, or logs, or maybe some stumps, something like that. I’ll bring that Rat-L-Trap right over the
    top of them or right next to them, and sometimes I’ll just kill it right next to it, and the
    bass will just crush it. Another great bait to use during the springtime
    is a spinnerbait, and I like to use it throughout the spring. Starting when the water temperature gets in
    the upper 40s, I’ll start using a 3/4-ounce spinnerbait, and I’m throwing that in deeper
    water, again, those same points, ledges and humps that I was targeting earlier in, you
    know, 20 feet of water, 15 to 30 feet of water, targeting with a spinnerbait, slow-roling
    it very slowly, and crisscrossing those areas. A lot of times, what I’ll do is I’ll graph
    over the tops of those areas first to see if there’s any cover that might hold those
    fish, like chunk rock, boulders, maybe some irregularities in the point, and I’ll bring
    the spinnerbait right across those areas. And a lot of times, you get bit. You don’t see the bass on your graph, but
    there’ll be hiding…they’ll be so tight to that cover that they’ll just appear as that
    piece of cover. That’s okay, just target that cover and a
    lot of times you’ll get bit. As the spring progresses, I’ll start moving
    up shallower, I’ll target those secondary points, those deeper weed lines. I’m looking for deeper, submerged structure
    or cover such as flooded bushes, flooded timber, that sort of thing. And then, as we get even further into the
    spring where it gets really shallow, now I’m going across the flats. I like to bring it across the flats two different
    ways. One is a medium retrieve. If there’s weeds that are submerged or any
    kinda cover, I’ll bring it nice and slow across that. Or if the fish are really aggressive, I’ll
    bring it back really fast. I’ll burn that spinnerbait back so quickly
    that it’s just under the surface where it’s kinda bulging the surface, but not breaking
    it. It’s a great way to fish it. They react to it. They’ll be sitting in those weeds and just
    suddenly, boom, it just comes flying over their head, and they’ll just react to it and
    crush it. So, it’s a real fun way to catch a lot of
    fish quickly and cover a lot of water effectively, just bulging the surface and covering a lot
    of water. But a spinnerbait to me is one of the more
    effective ways to catch bass throughout the entire spring because you can slow-roll it
    on the outside weed lines. When a front has come through, and those fish
    are pulled off, and they’re a little bit deeper, and they’re buried up in those weeds, and
    they don’t wanna attack baits that much, you can drop it down at 10 to 15-foot zone on
    the outside weed line and slow-roll it past those bass that are sitting buried in those
    weeds. Or if maybe there’s some submerged bushes,
    or flooded bushes, maybe some timber or something that’s deeper, just bring it right by that
    nice and slow with a slow-rolled spinnerbait during a cold front condition. And I don’t know what it is, but even though
    those fish seem to be lethargic and unwilling to chase baits, they’ll come up and crush
    those spinnerbaits even under cold front conditions. So, it’s a very effective way to catch fish
    during those tough conditions. But then, even during the spawn, I’ll bring
    those spinnerbaits right over the top of the beds like I did with the lipless crankbait,
    and I’ll bring them through balls of fry during the post-spawn to catch those males that are
    guarding fry. Again, please release them right away so they
    can finish their spawn. There you go. Nice. They’re in here. Keri: Come here, you. Glenn’s getting’ in the net. Come here, baby. Come here, come here. Oh, come on, Glenn. Come on, Glenn. There we go. There we go. He’s got a sore on his tongue. Yeah, he does. Glenn: The next bait, the fourth one on my
    list that I use throughout the spring is a Senko, you know, or a YUM Dinger, soft plastic
    jerkbait or stickbait, depending on what you wanna call them. I’ll start using them even in the early spring
    when it’s, you know, mid to upper 40s to low 50s. I like to put them on a split shot on a smaller
    size, like a 3-inch, maybe 4-inch, but a 3-inch Senko on a split shot or a drop shot, and
    to target those deeper structure areas, like I mentioned earlier, in the early spring,
    those main lake points, secondary points, drop-offs, humps, those things. I can work those areas very slowly, methodically. When those fish are still a little lethargic,
    kinda just waking up out of their winter slumber, this is a great way to attack those areas
    and catch a lot of fish. It also is a very effective way to fish when
    a cold front has come through and those fish aren’t as willing to bite faster-moving lures
    or bigger lures. I downsize and using those finesse tactics
    to target throughout the spring is a great way to…because they don’t have a lot of
    action to them, a lot of movement, which is what you’re matching, the environment and
    environmental conditions during the post-front conditions. So, it’s a real effective way to catch them. But if I’m not fishing those post-front conditions
    and the water temperature’s now has got in to the low to mid 50s, now I start using
    a 4 and 5-inch size stickbait, Texas-rigged with a 2/0 hook, weightless. And I’ll throw it around all those areas of
    cover that I mentioned previously, all that stuff you can see that I mentioned before,
    those rocks, those stumps, laydowns, targeting from the cove entrances, all the way into
    the back of the bays as the spring progresses into the…the temperatures would go up into
    the upper 50s and the low 60s and the fish are really shallow. It’s really hard to beat these baits during
    that time of year because they’re so effective, they have such a natural, easy fall to them. Just throw it out there on a slackline and
    let it fall by itself. Don’t do a whole lot of work, jerking it and
    doing all kinds of stuff, let it fall on slackline, and it falls horizontally just on its own. The key with that is watching your line. A lot of people gut-hook fish on these baits
    because they’re not paying so close attention to their line. Watch your line, you’re gonna see it just
    suddenly give a little twitch or it’ll start speeding off all of a sudden it’ll just start
    moving away from you quickly. Just any kind of movement like that…well,
    you didn’t impart on it with your rod, so something on the other end did, and it’s probably
    a fish. So, when you see that, reel up all that slack
    and set the hook as quick as you can before they swallow it. And you can catch a lot of fish that way without
    getting them gut-hooked. That’s the number one problem with these baits,
    but they’re very, very effective. You know, again, this is why fish like them
    so much, because they really do think it’s something natural, they eat it right away,
    they just suck it right down. So, great bait to use throughout the entire
    spring. There we go. There we go. Okay. Come on in. Got a little belly on him, he has been eating. That worked. Nice bright bluebird day, why not throw a
    buzzbait? Clear water. And then, finally, during the spring, another
    type of bait that I like to use is topwater, and very specific kinda topwater. There’s two specific kinds. One is buzzbait. I’ll start throwing a buzzbait when the water
    temperature is in the upper 40s, believe it or not. But yeah, I’ve caught fish on buzzbaits when
    it’s 49, 50-degree water temp over those main lake structures. It’s not uncommon for a bass when they’re
    active this time of year to come up 15 feet deep to smash a buzzbait. The key is, is that you wanna use larger blades
    so you can fish it slower and put on a bulkier, more buoyant plastic trailer on it, something
    like a Rage Tail Space Monkey or using a 6-inch Paddle Tail, you know, swimbait on it, something
    big, it enables you to fish it real slow and keep it on the surface, and it offers a larger
    profile for the bass to find them, and locate, and crush them. As the spring progresses, I’ll downsize, I’ll
    move a little bit smaller-sized buzzbait, and I’ll go to just, like, a twin-tail trailer
    on it, something smaller that can move it a lot faster across the water. This is when you’re in the upper 50s and the
    low 60s, when the fish are holding tight to shallow cover are up on those flats, actively
    feeding and chasing baitfish. This is a real effective way to catch them
    with buzzbaits, just covering a lot of water very quickly, and throwing it to all that
    available cover that you see. A lot of times, the fish will come out crushing
    and they’ll scare the bejeebies out of you because they’re hiding on something that you
    didn’t see, it was underwater. Could be a rock, could be a little indentation,
    maybe a ditch or something. But it’s a great way to fish when the fish
    are actively feeding. The other type of topwaters that I like to
    use is a toad and a hollow body frog. So, going on the other end of the spectrum,
    think of it this way, a buzzbait moves very fast across the surface. On the other end of it, you can use a hollow
    body frog because it sits, and floats on the surface, and doesn’t move at all. So, this is a great, effective way to fish
    those isolated pieces of cover that the fish are holding on when they’re a little more
    reluctant, they don’t wanna chase down a bait. You can bring that frog right to it, and let
    it sit, and just give it little twitches with your rod tip, and make it look alive without
    moving it away from that cover. And you’re gonna sit for 30 seconds, or a
    minute, or more, just let it sit, sit, sit, and then you give it a little twitch, and
    suddenly, bam, the fish will hit it. Surprises you because you would think they’d
    hit it right away, but sometimes you have to entice them or irritate them, depending
    on your point of view, until they finally come up and crush that frog. But you can fish that topwater really slow
    and get a lot of bites that way. The in-between range between a hollow body
    frog and a buzzbait is a toad, like a Rage Toad. It’s a real subtle movement, you can fish
    them slower. I fish it on a four-rod, keel-weighted hook,
    like a 1/4-ounce weight that’s got a screw lock on it, and I can fish it nice and slow
    across the surface, gurgling, very subtle movements, and I can drop it into those holes
    and those pockets in the weeds, on those big flats, or next to a stump, or a rock, or any
    kinda cover, fishing along a dock and drop it right alongside the dock. A lot of times, those fish will track it under
    the surface, and then when you kill it, that’s when they crush it. They just can’t stand it, they just can’t. Just changes the action that they’ve been
    seeing, and that change of action is what triggers that bite. You know, and it’s effective at the very beginning
    of the spring, all the way through to where there’s balls of fry in the post-spawn. A toad, a frog, and a buzzbait are my favorite
    topwater baits to use throughout the whole spring. So, those are my top five baits overall for
    spring fishing, top five types of baits to use throughout the spring. I hope those tips help. For more tips and tricks like this, visit
    BassResource.com.

    I Tried Making & Sculpting Soap Clay – 100% Soap Koi Fish Pond | Royalty Soaps
    Articles, Blog

    I Tried Making & Sculpting Soap Clay – 100% Soap Koi Fish Pond | Royalty Soaps

    March 2, 2020


    – Old mushroom head is back at it again. Hello everyone, my name is Katie Carson, I’m the Duchess of Suds
    here at Royalty Soaps, and today I’ll be doing
    something I’ve never done before. Not on film, anyway. Today, I’m going to be
    attempting soap dough. Now, I’ve tried to make soap dough using recipes that I’ve bought
    and using free recipes online and none of them have worked. I’ve always ended up with either something that’s really slimy and squishy and gross or something that’s hard
    and brittle and crumbly, it just never turns out right for me. I don’t know what it
    is, those soap gremlins are just like, No, Katie,
    we’ll not make soap dough. But today, I hope I am triumphant. I feel the odds are
    slightly more in my favor, because the recipe that I’m using today is from Pink Dahlia Soaps. She has a free recipe video, so I’m not gonna be leaving
    you guys the recipe, if you want the recipe,
    you can go watch her video, I will link that now in the upper right hand
    corner of the screen and also in the description box below for for ease of access. The woman is so talented, it’s one of those things
    where you feel like an incredibly inferior artist, because you just look at
    their work and you’re like, It’s a masterpiece! And then you look at your
    own stuff and you’re like, I am a child coloring with Crayola paint. Jokes aside, she’s a marvelous soapmaker, she does tons of innovative
    things with her soap dough, you should definitely
    check out her channel. Now, for those of you
    who are still in the dark about what soap dough actually is, it’s apply-able moldable cold process soap and you keep it away from
    being exposed to the air, so you have lots of
    workable time and then, after it is exposed to the air, it hardens like a regular bar of soap. Think polymer clay, but soap. I have used it before in these two videos, but I just purchased it from Sorcery Soap, you can check out the
    Sorcery Soap website, if you would like to
    purchase some as well. However the soap dough you can
    purchase from her uses lard, so it’s not vegan and
    I wanted to try my hand at a vegan-friendly option. Okay, let’s see how this
    goes in without further ado, let’s make some soap dough, hopefully. Before I add my lye water
    solution into my oils, I’m gonna be adding some kaolin clay, this has been mixed with water, and I’ll blend that in
    with my stick blender, (upbeat music) and add the lye water solution. (upbeat music) My mixture is now at light
    trace, so I’m gonna pour it into my colored containers. Now, you all know normally I add the color to all of my pre-portion containers, but this is how the gal
    at Pink Dahlia does it, so this is how I’m gonna try to do it. I’ve put about a fourth of a teaspoon of the micas and oxides into
    each one of these little cups. I’m gonna start back here
    with my titanium dioxide. This is just going to make
    some white soap dough. Now I’m moving on to Green Vibrance, this is a Nurture Soap color. I love this green, it’s really splendid. Now I’m gonna go to Blue Vibrance. This is also from Nurture Soap. Now this one is called Saffron, I believe, it is a Workshop Heritage orange. Whoa, that is really
    really really pigmented. Now this one right here is Trial by Fire, this is a new Nurture Soap red. And hey, listen, I used this red in the Farmers Market collection, specifically the Farmers
    Market soap for the cubes and I’ve had a problem with
    cubes bleeding in the past. This Trial by Fire should
    have a pretty good job, no bleeding and it’s very red. Of course, I’ve got to
    do my favorite pink, this is Cosmic Carolyn from TKB Trading. (upbeat music) (puffs) Okay, everybody’s
    been mixed up and my goodness! That took some time! (chuckles) I’m already having to be patient. So these little cups actually
    have lids that go on them, so I’m just gonna pop those on. I bought these cups one time
    thinking I was gonna make slime and then I didn’t. Then I’m just gonna slide
    these off to the side. Where is my Saran Wrap? I know it’s out here! Well, I don’t know exactly where
    the Saran Wrap is right now but once I find it, I’m
    just gonna cover these with the plastic wrap, you know, just like put it over there like that and we’re gonna let these sit for 24 hours and then we’re going to
    start squishing them. So, it’s been 48 hours
    and I’m getting ready to unmold these soaps. A couple of them, admittedly,
    I have squished already, and let me tell you something
    weird that I’m finding. I think the different colors
    are acting, well, differently in each one of these soap containers, because I squished the blue up and it created a very moldable soap clay, like extremely good, it’s really sticky, it’s really easy to moosh,
    but it’s not so sticky that it’s coming off all over my gloves. So, this one, on the
    other hand, is like flaky, that’s the only way I
    can really describe it. It’s not smooth, little bits
    are coming off in chunks and I’m not sure if this is
    the amount of coloring I used or the type of coloring I used or the fact that I had
    more purple in a container than I did that blue, like
    this is a very shallow dish with not much in it. I don’t know but the texture
    of this one is not very good. I’m gonna get this red
    out because it looks like it’ll be fun to squish. Okay, so let’s squish this one up. Obviously, oh! Okay, so this one’s really squishy! Okay, those of y’all who
    make soap dough or soap clay have to let me know what’s going on, because these are all from the same batch and I don’t understand how there’s so many different
    textures to the clay from the same batch! I will say, this one squishy enough that it probably needs to be dusted with some cornstarch or arrowroot powder, ’cause it’s sticking
    pretty good to my gloves. I know that it’s going
    to stick a little bit, because that’s the nature of soap, it’s not an actual clay. Like this one doesn’t even need
    to be squished up that much, it’s ready to go. I definitely should have
    used more red though, because this is pink. Since my gloves are all
    sticky from the red, let’s try to do the paint next. Okay, yeah, this one this
    one’s pretty easy to squish. Okay, now I’m starting to see a trend. It seems like all of the ones
    in the bigger containers, these that I covered with plastic wrap, are a lot harder to
    squish and I don’t know if it’s because those jelled or something and maybe I didn’t know it, because I tried to keep all of
    these containers really cool, and the little ones
    didn’t, but it does seem like the littler jars have
    done a way better job. However, I know soap makers
    that make these in loaves, like they’ll make a whole loaf of soap dough and then cut it. How are they doing that without it jelling and getting all sticky and weird? I don’t know, but this pink stuff is a great texture, very moldable. All right, let’s open up one of these. Oh my gosh, it’s so hard. Where my skizins? I’m just gonna cut this off, ’cause I certainly
    won’t be using it again. Okay, so this was a little
    easier to do than the purple, but it’s still pretty tough. Definitely got that flaky thing going on, it’s almost like these dried out. I wonder, I know I made
    those seals airtight, but I wonder if having containers that have actual lids to
    it, is really helpful. See, and here’s the other thing: I poured all the little containers first, whenever the soap batter
    was at the thinnest, so I wonder if it matters
    like how long it’s sat up before you mix the color
    in, because the purple one, which is the one that sent the longest before I mixed color in,
    that one’s the hardest to do, so I wonder if you really have
    to mix in all of your color while it’s thin, like super thin batter, and then don’t touch it,
    because this yellow one out of all the big
    containers, it’s the one that I mix the color in first. Now, maybe that has absolutely
    nothing to do with it, but I’m just trying to
    figure out what’s going on. Yeah, you see how this
    is taking off like that? That texture is hard to come back from. Thus goes my first documentation of trying to make soap clay or soap dough. I’m gonna call it soap clay,
    because when I think of clay, I think of something you
    mold then you let it sit out and it gets hard as a rock
    and that’s what this does: you mold it, you let it sit
    and it gets really hard. Soap dough to me for some
    reason sounds like something that’ll stay squishy forever. Essentially what I’ve learned
    is that I don’t know a lot (chuckles) when it comes to soap play. And this should make you
    guys feel really good, especially if you’re a beginner soapmaker. There’s a learning curve to all the different forms of soapmaking. I’m not a good hot process soapmaker, I don’t make hot process soap, I’m also clearly not someone
    who can just pick up soap clay and in the first second or even third try get all of my colors to cooperate. It’s a different type of soapmaking, your end goal is different. So, I’m not gonna beat myself up over it, I’m not an expert at it,
    so why should I assume that I would be perfect
    like the first second or even third time? I guarantee you, the people
    that do this professionally and extremely well, it
    didn’t take them three times to get as good as they are. So, I squished it up as much as I could, I’m wrapping it tightly in Saran Wrap, so that there’s no air bubbles in there and hopefully this keeps for a while. Now, I don’t want to leave this video without actually sculpting
    something from the soap dough. Admittedly, I’m not very good at it, but I thought, because these
    are so pretty to look at, let’s try to do like a
    goldfish or a koi fish pond, you know put some clear melt-and-pour, maybe some little lily pads
    and little fish inside, I don’t know, what we’ll
    see how this turns out, but I’m going to try to sculpture that out of the clay that I’ve
    made and we’ll see how I do. (bright uplifting music) Well, I can’t say I’m
    disappointed with the outcome of my very first attempt at soap clay. A lot of the colors
    turned out really well, and I feel with a little more tweaking I might be able to get
    it perfect next time. Now, sculpting all of this
    did take a really long time, I didn’t even show you guys the koi fish, because I was talking to Kenny and I was here for like 45 minutes trying to get that thing to look right. But I’m pretty pleased
    with the finished bar and I think that the little
    fish inside looks really cute. Lily loves it, so I’ll probably
    put this in her bathroom. Don’t forget to check
    out Pink Dahlia Soaps, once again, I’ll be
    leaving all of her things down in the description box below. Super big thanks for the free recipe, it turned out mighty nice. If you guys enjoyed this video, be sure to give it a big thumbs-up. Subscribe to this channel,
    leave us a comment down below, would you like to see me sculpt some more things out of soap clay? Leave your suggestions down below. And until next time, I hope you have an absolutely royal day. And bye for now (meows)! (bright uplifting music)

    How to Water Ski : Understand What Kind of Waterskiing Boat is Best to Ski Behind
    Articles, Blog

    How to Water Ski : Understand What Kind of Waterskiing Boat is Best to Ski Behind

    March 1, 2020


    Hello my name is Arturo Nelson, we’re here
    at Aqa Sports in Miami to learn how to water ski and to learn about the right equipment
    for water skiing, you can find more information about myself or my ski school at www.aqasports.com.
    One of the things that’ll make it easier for you to water ski is to have the right
    boat, also of people try to ski behind big boats, big out board engines so I recommend
    skiing behind a ski boat. Ski boats shouldn’t be longer than 22 feet long, it’s always
    easier if they have an inside engine with 300 horsepower so the weight would be smaller
    and the power would be easier for you to get out of the water. This has a rope underneath
    the hole that would make it safer for you, the driver should be sitting there and it’s
    always better for you if you have someone watching you so in case you fall, there’s
    an emergency they can come and help you out. The rope is tied in the middle of the boat
    so you get a better pull and you have a platform so it’s easier for you to get into the water.

    Articles

    I Tried Making & Sculpting Soap Clay – 100% Soap Koi Fish Pond | Royalty Soaps

    March 1, 2020


    – Old mushroom head is back at it again. Hello everyone, my name is Katie Carson, I’m the Duchess of Suds
    here at Royalty Soaps, and today I’ll be doing
    something I’ve never done before. Not on film, anyway. Today, I’m going to be
    attempting soap dough. Now, I’ve tried to make soap dough using recipes that I’ve bought
    and using free recipes online and none of them have worked. I’ve always ended up with either something that’s really slimy and squishy and gross or something that’s hard
    and brittle and crumbly, it just never turns out right for me. I don’t know what it
    is, those soap gremlins are just like, No, Katie,
    we’ll not make soap dough. But today, I hope I am triumphant. I feel the odds are
    slightly more in my favor, because the recipe that I’m using today is from Pink Dahlia Soaps. She has a free recipe video, so I’m not gonna be leaving
    you guys the recipe, if you want the recipe,
    you can go watch her video, I will link that now in the upper right hand
    corner of the screen and also in the description box below for for ease of access. The woman is so talented, it’s one of those things
    where you feel like an incredibly inferior artist, because you just look at
    their work and you’re like, It’s a masterpiece! And then you look at your
    own stuff and you’re like, I am a child coloring with Crayola paint. Jokes aside, she’s a marvelous soapmaker, she does tons of innovative
    things with her soap dough, you should definitely
    check out her channel. Now, for those of you
    who are still in the dark about what soap dough actually is, it’s apply-able moldable cold process soap and you keep it away from
    being exposed to the air, so you have lots of
    workable time and then, after it is exposed to the air, it hardens like a regular bar of soap. Think polymer clay, but soap. I have used it before in these two videos, but I just purchased it from Sorcery Soap, you can check out the
    Sorcery Soap website, if you would like to
    purchase some as well. However the soap dough you can
    purchase from her uses lard, so it’s not vegan and
    I wanted to try my hand at a vegan-friendly option. Okay, let’s see how this
    goes in without further ado, let’s make some soap dough, hopefully. Before I add my lye water
    solution into my oils, I’m gonna be adding some kaolin clay, this has been mixed with water, and I’ll blend that in
    with my stick blender, (upbeat music) and add the lye water solution. (upbeat music) My mixture is now at light
    trace, so I’m gonna pour it into my colored containers. Now, you all know normally I add the color to all of my pre-portion containers, but this is how the gal
    at Pink Dahlia does it, so this is how I’m gonna try to do it. I’ve put about a fourth of a teaspoon of the micas and oxides into
    each one of these little cups. I’m gonna start back here
    with my titanium dioxide. This is just going to make
    some white soap dough. Now I’m moving on to Green Vibrance, this is a Nurture Soap color. I love this green, it’s really splendid. Now I’m gonna go to Blue Vibrance. This is also from Nurture Soap. Now this one is called Saffron, I believe, it is a Workshop Heritage orange. Whoa, that is really
    really really pigmented. Now this one right here is Trial by Fire, this is a new Nurture Soap red. And hey, listen, I used this red in the Farmers Market collection, specifically the Farmers
    Market soap for the cubes and I’ve had a problem with
    cubes bleeding in the past. This Trial by Fire should
    have a pretty good job, no bleeding and it’s very red. Of course, I’ve got to
    do my favorite pink, this is Cosmic Carolyn from TKB Trading. (upbeat music) (puffs) Okay, everybody’s
    been mixed up and my goodness! That took some time! (chuckles) I’m already having to be patient. So these little cups actually
    have lids that go on them, so I’m just gonna pop those on. I bought these cups one time
    thinking I was gonna make slime and then I didn’t. Then I’m just gonna slide
    these off to the side. Where is my Saran Wrap? I know it’s out here! Well, I don’t know exactly where
    the Saran Wrap is right now but once I find it, I’m
    just gonna cover these with the plastic wrap, you know, just like put it over there like that and we’re gonna let these sit for 24 hours and then we’re going to
    start squishing them. So, it’s been 48 hours
    and I’m getting ready to unmold these soaps. A couple of them, admittedly,
    I have squished already, and let me tell you something
    weird that I’m finding. I think the different colors
    are acting, well, differently in each one of these soap containers, because I squished the blue up and it created a very moldable soap clay, like extremely good, it’s really sticky, it’s really easy to moosh,
    but it’s not so sticky that it’s coming off all over my gloves. So, this one, on the
    other hand, is like flaky, that’s the only way I
    can really describe it. It’s not smooth, little bits
    are coming off in chunks and I’m not sure if this is
    the amount of coloring I used or the type of coloring I used or the fact that I had
    more purple in a container than I did that blue, like
    this is a very shallow dish with not much in it. I don’t know but the texture
    of this one is not very good. I’m gonna get this red
    out because it looks like it’ll be fun to squish. Okay, so let’s squish this one up. Obviously, oh! Okay, so this one’s really squishy! Okay, those of y’all who
    make soap dough or soap clay have to let me know what’s going on, because these are all from the same batch and I don’t understand how there’s so many different
    textures to the clay from the same batch! I will say, this one squishy enough that it probably needs to be dusted with some cornstarch or arrowroot powder, ’cause it’s sticking
    pretty good to my gloves. I know that it’s going
    to stick a little bit, because that’s the nature of soap, it’s not an actual clay. Like this one doesn’t even need
    to be squished up that much, it’s ready to go. I definitely should have
    used more red though, because this is pink. Since my gloves are all
    sticky from the red, let’s try to do the paint next. Okay, yeah, this one this
    one’s pretty easy to squish. Okay, now I’m starting to see a trend. It seems like all of the ones
    in the bigger containers, these that I covered with plastic wrap, are a lot harder to
    squish and I don’t know if it’s because those jelled or something and maybe I didn’t know it, because I tried to keep all of
    these containers really cool, and the little ones
    didn’t, but it does seem like the littler jars have
    done a way better job. However, I know soap makers
    that make these in loaves, like they’ll make a whole loaf of soap dough and then cut it. How are they doing that without it jelling and getting all sticky and weird? I don’t know, but this pink stuff is a great texture, very moldable. All right, let’s open up one of these. Oh my gosh, it’s so hard. Where my skizins? I’m just gonna cut this off, ’cause I certainly
    won’t be using it again. Okay, so this was a little
    easier to do than the purple, but it’s still pretty tough. Definitely got that flaky thing going on, it’s almost like these dried out. I wonder, I know I made
    those seals airtight, but I wonder if having containers that have actual lids to
    it, is really helpful. See, and here’s the other thing: I poured all the little containers first, whenever the soap batter
    was at the thinnest, so I wonder if it matters
    like how long it’s sat up before you mix the color
    in, because the purple one, which is the one that sent the longest before I mixed color in,
    that one’s the hardest to do, so I wonder if you really have
    to mix in all of your color while it’s thin, like super thin batter, and then don’t touch it,
    because this yellow one out of all the big
    containers, it’s the one that I mix the color in first. Now, maybe that has absolutely
    nothing to do with it, but I’m just trying to
    figure out what’s going on. Yeah, you see how this
    is taking off like that? That texture is hard to come back from. Thus goes my first documentation of trying to make soap clay or soap dough. I’m gonna call it soap clay,
    because when I think of clay, I think of something you
    mold then you let it sit out and it gets hard as a rock
    and that’s what this does: you mold it, you let it sit
    and it gets really hard. Soap dough to me for some
    reason sounds like something that’ll stay squishy forever. Essentially what I’ve learned
    is that I don’t know a lot (chuckles) when it comes to soap play. And this should make you
    guys feel really good, especially if you’re a beginner soapmaker. There’s a learning curve to all the different forms of soapmaking. I’m not a good hot process soapmaker, I don’t make hot process soap, I’m also clearly not someone
    who can just pick up soap clay and in the first second or even third try get all of my colors to cooperate. It’s a different type of soapmaking, your end goal is different. So, I’m not gonna beat myself up over it, I’m not an expert at it,
    so why should I assume that I would be perfect
    like the first second or even third time? I guarantee you, the people
    that do this professionally and extremely well, it
    didn’t take them three times to get as good as they are. So, I squished it up as much as I could, I’m wrapping it tightly in Saran Wrap, so that there’s no air bubbles in there and hopefully this keeps for a while. Now, I don’t want to leave this video without actually sculpting
    something from the soap dough. Admittedly, I’m not very good at it, but I thought, because these
    are so pretty to look at, let’s try to do like a
    goldfish or a koi fish pond, you know put some clear melt-and-pour, maybe some little lily pads
    and little fish inside, I don’t know, what we’ll
    see how this turns out, but I’m going to try to sculpture that out of the clay that I’ve
    made and we’ll see how I do. (bright uplifting music) Well, I can’t say I’m
    disappointed with the outcome of my very first attempt at soap clay. A lot of the colors
    turned out really well, and I feel with a little more tweaking I might be able to get
    it perfect next time. Now, sculpting all of this
    did take a really long time, I didn’t even show you guys the koi fish, because I was talking to Kenny and I was here for like 45 minutes trying to get that thing to look right. But I’m pretty pleased
    with the finished bar and I think that the little
    fish inside looks really cute. Lily loves it, so I’ll probably
    put this in her bathroom. Don’t forget to check
    out Pink Dahlia Soaps, once again, I’ll be
    leaving all of her things down in the description box below. Super big thanks for the free recipe, it turned out mighty nice. If you guys enjoyed this video, be sure to give it a big thumbs-up. Subscribe to this channel,
    leave us a comment down below, would you like to see me sculpt some more things out of soap clay? Leave your suggestions down below. And until next time, I hope you have an absolutely royal day. And bye for now (meows)! (bright uplifting music)

    How To Tie A Palomar Knot (Connect Fishing Lures, Hooks & Swivels to Braid) | BoatUS
    Articles, Blog

    How To Tie A Palomar Knot (Connect Fishing Lures, Hooks & Swivels to Braid) | BoatUS

    March 1, 2020


    Hey there, folks! Lenny Rudow here for BoatUS Magazine. You know, recently I was looking through our knot tying playlist on our YouTube channel. You may have checked it out– If not, be sure to subscribe below and then you won’t miss any future videos. But in any case, one thing that I noticed was we were missing the Palomar knot. Now, this is a really important knot for you fishermen, especially if you like to use braid fishing line, because that braid line is slippery. You can’t just tie it onto a swivel or the eye of a lure or any other solid object. You’ve got to use a Palomar knot to make it happen. So let’s take a look at how you do just that. Now, let’s say that this ring right here is the eye of the lure or a swivel. The first thing I want to do is take my line and double it up. Then I’ll push the end through the eye and simply tie an overhand knot. This is a really easy one to figure out, folks, because then all you do is take your lure or ring and pass the loop you made over it, pull it tight, and boom! You’ve got your Palomar. Let’s take a look up close. I put my doubled line through the eye, tie an overhand knot, and then take my swivel, lure, whatever it is, and pass the loop over top of it. Pull it through, pull down tight. One more time: loop goes through the eye, tie an overhand knot, pass the item through the loop and pull her down tight. This knot does leave a long tag end so the very last thing you want to do is get your snippers, snip that off, and you are ready to fish. Well, folks, I hope you’ve enjoyed this video. Don’t forget to leave your comments below, and I hope the Palomar helps you catch more fish!

    #75 How to Setup Fish tank with toy | Subtitle Added | Tamil
    Articles, Blog

    #75 How to Setup Fish tank with toy | Subtitle Added | Tamil

    March 1, 2020


    Helloo Everyone.. Greetings…
    Its my Karthick Today we are going to look into the nano tank setup. so far we have seen about the tanks which contains the driftwood rocks and plants. we haven’t used any toys in our tank Here today i’ve something new to show you about fish tank toy/decorative item as i liked more So far i never used any toy items in the tank. Am gonna setup the tank today with this toy as i likes more. Tank size is 30*30*30 cm. This is the cube tank. This tank is the low iron tank. I’ve got this tank from the Aquatic Remedies The edges of the tank has been properly pasted and beautifully designed. This item i’ve bought in chennai kolathur. This cost is around Rs.500 This is the light weight item. so we can setup in the tank easily. I’ve chosen this size as per my tank size. you can choose as per your tank size. Here we gonna use this toy as main object with tropica planting soil, cosmetic soil, plants and lava rocks. come lets go for the tank setup. We have some green paints on the item to show some natural effects.
    B But i would like to add some java moss to add on some beauty in it. Am filling up the gaps with the java moss. it may grow well in couple of months and gives more natural look on the toy. Need to tie the java moss using the thread. I suggest to use green/black color thread to merge with java moss/toy color. I have finished tying the java moss with the thread I have tied the thread, only on the hard surface and the space where the moss is not seated properly. I don’t keep any java moss on the back side of the toy. Only filling the front side of the tank. Before we place the toy inside tank, gonna cover the end of the tank with Tropica soil. The soil is used for plants growing and to provide the proper nutrients to the plants. Basically its a plant soil and brand name is called as Tropica. Already i have posted the video in our channel about this soil. To know more check the link in the description. Next am filling the Tropica soil at the back. Gonna decorate the front part with other soil. Placing the lava rocks at the front which has been tied with java moss. Placing these rocks to not to mix the Tropica soil with cosmetic sand. can able to see some small gaps between rocks and soils. To fill those gaps, will be using the cotton. Hope you enjoyed the video of the fish tank setup with the toy and aquarium plants. I’ve reused the plants from my older tank’s setup. I’ve used the low lighting plants on this setup.so am not using any Co2 but using fertilizers. Will update the fertilizer details in my upcoming videos. Here am using Senzeal virgo LED light. Already we have the video of this lights in our channel. Find the link in the description about the video on lights. I have used Boyu Hang on filter in our fish tank. This filter is sufficient for the nano tank. If you want more circulation, we can go for internal filters. i’ve planned to add the fishes after one week of water conditioning and bacteria formation. Though we’ve added bacteria powder, it takes minimum of 3-4 days to introduce the fishes So that the fishes would be more healthy and also for the good water condition. Advisable to introduce fish after 3-7 days. I’ve already decided to what kind of fish to add into this tank. Your suggestions are always welcome. pour your suggestions on the comment box. Do like and share this video. You can write your queries/doubts on comment box. Don’t forget to subscribe our channel and also click the bell icon to get new updates. Byyyyyyeeee!!!!!!