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    Is Fixing up an old sailboat w/ 500 ROTTEN BLISTERS even worth it ??  -Patrick Childress Sailing #60
    Articles, Blog

    Is Fixing up an old sailboat w/ 500 ROTTEN BLISTERS even worth it ?? -Patrick Childress Sailing #60

    March 6, 2020

    We need to get this old blister covered sailboat to looking like this
    and this is how we did it part two of major hull blister repairs hello I’m Patrick and I’m Rebecca on the
    sailboat Brick House a Valiant 40. We have had
    some comments people asking why don’t we just go out and buy a new sailboat
    instead of fixing up this old 44 year old sailboat. Buy a new sail boat?? i would
    rather have 500 blisters then spend 500 grand! yeah a new Swan 48 would be okay
    but the reality is a 44 year old sailboat suits our economy just fine and
    especially a valiant 40 I don’t know if any other design especially with the
    interior layout that I like as well as the Valiant 40 so these old sailboats if
    you buy them at the right price if they’ve been somewhat maintained there’s
    a lot of hidden value there. we used to flip houses that is we would
    buy old houses that needed work fix them up and sell them oftentimes within a
    month and make a comfortable profit that is what helped to get Rebecca and I out
    retired and sailing at a fairly young age! We see sailboats in the same way. Our
    Valiant 40 had a lot of tremendous value locked in it and we just had to
    bring it out. I’m gonna put my sunglasses on too because it’s very bright out here that’s why I don’t put sunglasses on my
    head most of the time I always lose them but yeah these sailboats like with
    the Valiant 40 has a lot of potential. If you just can sail away on it enjoy
    crossing oceans and in these foreign countries where it’s very reasonable, do
    the boat work to fix them up which is what we have been doing. I have been waiting
    for about five years to get to a place like South Africa to do all of the
    blister repairs. We knew it would be extensive, it would take a long time and
    a lot of work but everything that you saw in the first video and you’ll see in
    this video all the blister repairs and all the painting cost us about $4,000 USD
    for materials and labor. That isn’t counting my own time in labor and it
    does not count the Coppercoat that’s on the body but we feel as though just like
    flipping a house we have increased the value tremendously. We may not sell the
    boat for profit in the end but we’ve had a very cheap place to live, we’ve had a
    lot of great adventures and we’ll certainly get a lot more for it than
    when we first started out. Anything you want to say? No. You have to say something! You say
    yeah anybody has a Swan 48 you want to give us… OK if anyone wants to give us a Swan 48 we’re all ears – go for it! yeah but the reality is a new sailboat just is such a
    fast depreciating asset you know just like a car as soon as you drive it off
    the lot it’s you’ll never get what you paid for it again and that’s why we feel
    these old boats have a lot more value than any new boat ever can have. any sail boat
    even a new one is a maintenance treadmill. If you don’t want to do boat work,
    don’t buy a boat. And that’s part of it too. You have to be willing to get your
    hands dirty and work right alongside the helpers. you just can’t be throwing money
    at contractors who oftentimes just screw things up. Get in, do the work
    yourself, get the proper tools, and learn how to do it and you can have a very
    nice asset. So let’s get into finishing up these blister repairs… into the final
    faring and sanding. so let’s get to work! It was a lot of work to open up all of
    these resin blisters and prepare the blisters for the laminating of new
    fiberglass with epoxy resin to get everything ready the process the epoxy
    resin used is Gurit SP 106 with slow hardener and the fiberglass cloth is
    1708 we got all of those materials from AMT Composites in Durban South Africa oh
    I forgot to mention in the last video and I’ll do it real quick here with
    these thin rollers when they get used they get really plugged up with fiberglass resin
    and they become useless. but they can clean up very quick and easily by using
    a paint stripping heat gun just melt that stuff out of there give it a good
    brushing with a wire brush and couple of minutes it will look like new.
    The two-part epoxy faring compound we used is Seafare 600 which we also
    bought through AMT Composites but as you can see just using some putty knives or
    some sheetrock compound knives they just weren’t large enough to do an adequate
    job we had to find a better system a better application tool to help speed up
    the process and do a better job so we started experimenting with some leftover
    fiberglass panels and also some plexiglass panels and each had its own
    thickness and ability to fold perfectly into these outside curves and the inside
    curves and the plexiglass panel is a little thicker so it could be held very
    straight for very straight work like the keel to Hull joint curve the only thing
    is there to be absolutely no defects on that application edge of these new
    screeds but that was no problem we just got out the router picked up a piece of
    aluminum which was actually an old curtain track and used that as a
    straight edge for the router to follow to make a perfectly straight edge on
    both of these new screeds you can actually see how wide that piece of
    plastic is so I actually cut it in half lengthwise and made two screeds out of
    it but you can see here look at that router
    guide that bearing was just about ready to fall off I got lucky on that one good
    lesson to always check the set screw on the very bottom of that collar and make
    sure it’s good and tight depending on which way the wind blew we generally set
    up our old mainsail as a dust containment cloth
    although the contractor is working on the surrounding boats weren’t quite so
    concerned where their dust blew but what really helped out to contain our dust
    and make our cleanup much easier during the smoothing process of all that
    faring compound was to use a little cheapy vacuum cleaner that hooked up to
    the dust collection system of the random orbit sander and it didn’t use
    traditional bags for filtering they used water which was a very great collection
    system saved us a lot of work a lot of cleanup during this whole process hey that’s just amazing look this is the all over in the air on
    the ground on our work I mean the solid mud is about half of my finger deep
    incredible so after all that sanding we had to make sure that we got all the
    dust off of the surface in preparation for the next step in the process we
    found that washing with a scrub brush on the end of long handle with a lot of
    fresh water was not adequate when the surfaces dry if you wipe your hand over
    there would always be a layer of residual dust that did not come up so we
    found that wrapping a terry cloth towel around that scrub brush and then washing
    the boat maybe with a little dishwashing detergent in the water as well that
    eliminated all the residual dust that we were absolutely sure to make sure that
    all of that dishwashing detergent was well washed away from the surface of the
    boat using the water hose we washed at night because by morning the ground and
    everything else would be dry however during the day if we had to wash the
    boat we would use three buckets of water because we could not afford to use the
    hose and be slopping around in a mud pit one bucket with clean water would first
    be used to wipe down the boat we’d go over that with the next clean bucket of
    water and then follow that with a third clean bucket of water and it was one
    person’s job then to continually be emptying out those water buckets and
    refilling them with more clean water and this worked out really well occasionally
    we would go over the surface with a heat gun just mildly to make sure that
    everything was very dry but otherwise it did come out extremely clean with that
    three rag three rinse process one day we ran out of the two-part epoxy ready-mix
    faring compound so we had to mix up our own using the epoxy resin after stirring
    the hardener and the resin for a full two minutes then we mixed in a spoonful
    of Cabosill and then started mixing in the microballoons of course there’s
    other fillers of that would be very sandable but they weren’t available to
    us had to use the microballoons and we had
    marked in the tin can with a magic marker the level of which to fill the
    can so we’d have just the right amount of microballoons in the mix so we could
    duplicate this mix time and time again very quickly with no guesswork but
    the big problem was this stuff sags no matter how much of any of the fillers we
    put in there and the Cabosil it still ran it still sagged it was not easy to
    spread and get a nice even finish it meant a lot of work with these long
    boards in all the sanding that we had to do the only way you can get a good
    finish on these boats without a lot of waviness
    is with longboards and a lot of arm muscle flexion there’s no easy way I
    searched and I searched and I could only find one extremely expensive longboard
    that had a power cord attached to it and that’s made in Europe and we just
    couldn’t get that here 58% import duties plus shipping and everything else it’s
    just cheaper to hire a lot of people with strong arms so I made the longboards out of some scrap fibreglass panel that we had laying around and they
    were just wide enough so where they would fit side-by-side on a long roll of
    sandpaper holes were drilled in the fiberglass board the head where the
    screw if the flat head screw would fit was countersunk the little wood handle
    was glued and screwed to the board and we would be all set some of these boards
    had two handles some of the board’s had four handles it was nice to have their
    variety and then a rubber piece of rubber that I found laying around the
    yard was contact cemented sometimes they call it contact adhesive to the bottom
    of the longboard and that would give a nice backing for the sandpaper
    conforming to some of these tight radiuses on the hull one long piece of
    sandpaper did not work out as it would buckle in the middle
    it was far better than so we found to cut two or three pieces which is best to
    run the length of a longboard spray on adhesive just did not work well it
    wasn’t strong enough to attach a sandpaper to the longboard so then we
    always used the contact cement out of the can. I checked with every contractor in the
    boatyard, and they all said there is no easy way out of all of this hand longboard
    sanding and puttying and faring and sanding and puttying and faring and
    sanding, day after day, to get it right. some people familiar with this type of
    work would call our longboards short boards because often times on much larger
    projects very high-end projects boards that are 15 feet long would be used that
    is four and a half meters and take four and sometimes five people to operate but
    this is not a marina Queen it’s not a race boat what we’re doing here turns
    out to be very acceptable and the nice even finish throughout and very adequate
    for a hard used ocean crossing sail boat there are different techniques for
    finding the low spots or the high spots in the faring process but generally we
    could see them or feel them easily with our hand but we added black white or
    blue pigment to the faring compound and that helped greatly to show where we
    were and where we needed to go with the fairing but anytime we did find a lower
    the high spots that needed attention we would generally circle them with a
    different colored magic marker one day like red and maybe a green one on
    another day to help avoid any confusion and the day finally came to where we
    could mark the waterline we raised it up yet another inch and that would be a
    total of three inches from the original waterline as this boat came from the
    factory and before we ever got started on this project we put pieces of blue
    tape along either the cap rail or the rub rail and then measured down from
    there to the existing waterline to preserve those measurements and try to
    get them back at the end of this project so all of those measurements then were
    measured straight down from their individual station and marked with a
    magic marker on the hull of the boat and then we took a fishing line and strung
    it up and taped it to each one of those measurement points
    then it took a lot of eyeballing and moving that fishing line up and down
    just a hair and more tape to hold it in new places to get that curve that
    existed before we got started on this project once that was accomplished then
    we took new tape and followed the fishing line just to the top side of it
    where then the fishing line can be pulled away and we had whatever water
    line that was left this was not a perfect system but we did the best we
    could with it if you know of a better way of getting back that water line then
    please leave the information in the comments down below and everybody I’m
    sure will benefit from it all the faring and sanding was done now we were
    finally in the homestretch we use all epoxy resin and all epoxy
    fairing compounds on this blister repair project so osmosis – the intrusion of water into
    the hull, just would not be a problem. However I still wanted to give
    four coats of epoxy resin – as a barrier coat – below the waterline so that we would have a nice
    hard evenly consistent skin in preparation for the Coppercoat
    antifouling that we would be putting on and just to make me feel better about
    the project following standard epoxy mixing instructions we mixed our slow
    hardener with the resin at least two minutes before applying it to the hull
    rolling it on and then smoothing it out with a roller that we had cut in half
    and we applied it wet on wet that is one layer that we
    applied once it just set up and it was still a little tacky to the touch we
    went on and applied the next coat and this gave excellent adhesion to each
    successive coat four coats of two-part primer around and
    around until we just ran out of primer to use this was some South African made
    stuff that was recommended by one of the contractors in the boatyard so it wasn’t the
    name brand that the most international people would recognize and of course
    everywhere in the world there has got to be a bug that just feels like they’ve
    got to jump into wet paint all the surfaces were sanded with 320 grit paper
    with a random orbit sander before priming and I would have put a lot of
    money on saying that everything was perfect there were absolutely no
    blemishes and how long how much money I would have lost on that bet it’s amazing
    what primer will show up in the way the tiniest little defects so we use this
    stuff called spot putty it looks like tar but it dries extremely
    fast and hard and it was just the perfect party one part putty
    for filling up all these tiniest little dings or scratches or defects and then
    those would get sanded with 320 grit paper and and then they were ready for
    painting we wouldn’t prime over these pretty rough-looking isn’t it but that
    just as smooth as anybody could do with this stuff so it did take a little bit
    of extra sandy we went through three of these cheapy
    little vacuum cleaners that uses water for collection rather than a dust bag
    the bearings inside just kept burning out but it wasn’t just those a little
    black patch spots that we used the spot putty on the entire hull where it was
    primed you got sanded again with a six-inch random orbit sander with 320
    grit paper but we also used the little palm sander with the same grit paper in
    some of the areas that were a bit more curved and more difficult to get to with
    the big 6-inch random orbit sander. Sipho was on the spray gun with three of us doing
    everything that needed to be done to make it possible for him to just keep on
    spraying around and around the boat we moved a scaffolding his hoses and one
    man was dedicated to mixing up the two-part paint and again that was just
    generic paint made locally that was suggested by one of the local
    contractors. That is our old mainsail covering up the catamaran in front of us
    they just had their boat painted and then we don’t need any oopss with their
    paint job. Sipho certainly had the hardest job he couldn’t stand around and take a
    little break every now and then… always moving, and always spraying, and he worked around and around, and that was good enough. After 4 coats we were done what a
    nice feeling I mean I’m the boss I’m paying the bills I don’t want a marina
    queen but these guys said no way we’re not done and I lost that argument I
    didn’t have the heart to tell them that this is a long range hard core hard used
    cruising sailboat I don’t need an absolutely perfect job
    but they would not relent there were just the tiniest little defects the
    tiniest little pinholes primer and paint does not cover defects it only
    accentuates them and I did not have the heart though to tell them good enough
    was good enough in this case so they went at it and sanded down the white again, filling
    up all the tiniest little defects you could imagine and took special viewing
    from one angle or another to see them and then started wet sanding and also some
    dry sanding all with the 320 and actually 400 grit paper all to get this
    surface ready for another four coats of white paint the green and white color
    combination is the age-old Valiant 40 color scheme and this time we got away
    with four coats of green and you didn’t have to put on anything so now all that
    was left to do is put on the newly chromed trim on the hawspipe
    give it a good application of Coppercoat which is video number 57 and then
    apply prop speed to the propeller and apply Propspeed on the shaft and prop. Propspeed is a silicone finish
    that has worked out very well for us in the past and we’ll do a video on the
    Propspeed application one of these days. And after eight months of boat work,
    this old boat is finished and ready to go back in the water. We fully believe
    that it’s stronger and better now than when it rolled out of the factory in
    1976 44 years ago and just like the houses that we used to fix up and sell
    for profit in Rhode Island we fully believe that this boat is now worth far
    more than when we started out 12 years ago. We have all the receipts for the
    materials and all the time cards for the labor but it would take hours and hours
    to figure it all out to get an exact amount of cost, so Rebecca and I will
    both guesstimate that the materials and labor to do all the blister repairs. and
    this is not counting the cost of the Coppercoat bottom paint, but it costs us about
    four thousand US dollars to do this blister repair and the paint job but the
    boat work isn’t done. Rebecca wants to put on lithium batteries, and also a hybrid hot
    water heating system. SO now we sail away from Richards Bay and move on down to Cape Town where we
    will take care of those boat projects, but it’s been a fun great stop in Richard Bay…
    we went to the game parks and met a lot of great people but like with every
    cruiser there comes that date that you just have to leave…and sail away!

    How To Install A 3 Bow Bimini Top – Cooltech
    Articles, Blog

    How To Install A 3 Bow Bimini Top – Cooltech

    February 28, 2020

    Eevelle designs and manufacturers
    high-quality performance products for those who love the outdoor the Summerset Cooltech series bimini top featuring Aqualone Edge Cooltech fabric is the
    best choice for outstanding performance and durability
    the Summerset Cooltech series Bimini table comes as a complete kit including
    canvas frame and mounting hardware remove the canvas from the bag and lay
    out the pieces on a clean dry surface lay out the crossbars and slide
    crossbars down the Bimini sleeves insert the ends of the crossbars into the side
    of the frame and lock into place measure to compare the mounting points on your
    boat width of frame attach the mounting swivel to the end of the frame clean and
    mask off the area where you’ll be working position the frame in the
    mounting area open frame and confirm the position and coverage are correct mark
    the mounting points of the swivels drill pilot holes for the screws countersink
    the holes to prevent the fiberglass from splintering apply silicon to the holes
    to ensure a watertight fit repeat the drilling process to mount the
    eye strap loops secure the loop end of the web strap to Bimini frame and attach
    the strap to the eye strap loop using the clip on strap repeat for all straps
    adjust the straps and tighten canvas release front straps to close the top
    and collapse the Bimini rearward fold canvas towards frame then secure in
    storage boot the summerset cool tech series bimini top are designed to
    satisfy the most discriminating customers with marine grey fabric heavy
    duty frames and stainless steel mounting hardware
    this kit is manufactured with the highest quality materials for superior
    durability Eevelle quality and performance by design

    500 ROTTEN, FESTERING Blisters!!  – Blister Repairs on a Fiberglass Sailboat! (Patrick Childress 59)
    Articles, Blog

    500 ROTTEN, FESTERING Blisters!! – Blister Repairs on a Fiberglass Sailboat! (Patrick Childress 59)

    February 23, 2020

    We need to get all of these opened up resin blisters from looking like this to Looking like this and this is how we did it Hello, we are Patrick and Rebecca Childress and our six-month-old South African deckhand coati on our Valiant 40 Brick House And we are hauled out in Richards Bay South Africa In 1976 When this boat was built the price of oil in the u.s Just about tripled and along with that all oil related products like fiberglass Resin, and the Builder of this boat decided to change resin suppliers and go to a cheaper resin No one could have foreseen the consequences over the years and decades the uncured resin in the lay-up has been trying to get out of that layup and Causing blisters on its way out. So these are uncured resin blisters It has nothing to do with osmotic blisters, which is water trying to get into the laminate and then causing blisters So I’ve seen these blisters develop and get bigger and more numerous over the past twelve years of crossing oceans on this boat So right here in Richards Bay after sailing three-quarters of the way around the world I’ve decided to dig in take care of these blisters make sure that there’s no structural issues and Fix these up just as best as I could So we can carry on and cross more oceans and have no more problems and hopefully any future owner of this boat Twenty years from now if there’s problems they’ll be just minimal. So we’ll see what happens in twenty years I hope I’m around to see it but this is what we did to dig in and Fix our resin blisters for right now Digging into these resin blisters below the waterline where there’s a lot of soft antifouling paint just wasn’t working out So well, we opened them up a bit, but there had to be a better way of Digging out the fiberglass that was delaminated from the hull and that’s where we found It was better to first drill holes into these blisters and if there is moisture Which often time there was to let it squirt out Although it might look clear here. Certainly. The liquid was more of a dark. Tobacco. Looking color Eventually, we got all the bottom paint off which was the whole video in itself and that took weeks to do But that also made it easier to find the less obvious Blisters like this one that has a little bit of a ring around the perimeter So this is where our nice flat random orbit sander just went over the top and outlined this ring Alright, it’s time to dig in and take care of this blister. We found a much better faster way to open up these blisters so that we didn’t have to spend a lot of time and send a lot of dust into the air with the dis sanding we Use two different sized hole saws and of course, we first got rid of the pilot bit got that out of the way we don’t need to be drilling holes right up through this hull of the boat to the inside and Made a pilot guide out of the thick piece of plywood that held the hole saws in place well, we were able to at least get them started then once the hole is started big if you get rid of the guide and Go ahead and drill the rest of the way through the delaminating fiberglass Certainly made a lot faster and easier than just a lot of this So what starts out as a shallow blister can wander off it in any direction and then become a deep pit going through many layers of fiberglass Those vertical parallel stripes are where this boat was peeled below the waterline only in 2001 and treated for blisters at that time It is quite obvious that just surface peeling to a particular depth is not the best way to go because these blisters originate at all different depths within the laminate layout It was become frustrating just when I thought we had all the blisters opened up I would find another one but my eye was getting a little better at finding these things and Especially in the late daylight the side lighting would show up blisters that just weren’t obvious during the midday light So this one it’s a small one I probably should have seen it before because of that circular Identification so we dig in and open that one up – these are the dish that we were using on the 7-inch porter-cable dis sander 36 grit and 24 grit Occasionally, we would drill into a small blister and it would turn out to be fairly solid So for that small hole we would use this angle grinder with a metal Grinding disc on it to kind of feather out that hole but it left such a ragged finish We would have to go back with the larger this sander and help flatten it out of it Here is an example of a blister that has been ground out fairly symmetrically around however There’s still a bit of a bubble area here. So this grinding is going to have to come back much further out To where it’s well adhered in the layers We want to grind open all those layers of fiberglass the existing layers of fiberglass So that when we lay up the new layers of fiberglass, there will be very good adhesion to what is already there So here’s a spot that was ground out to take care of a blister and After a month of drying we have one little spot here that’s starting to bleed through So I’ll get in here today with a grinder and grind this out We’ll see how far back that little wet spot goes but I would predict something about that size So we’re getting down to these fine little areas And hopefully closing in on a date to start putting everything back together again At the end of nearly every day I get out the water hose and wash down all these open blisters And it’s pretty well known that this process is washing then we’ll help draw out More of any liquid that might still be hiding in the laminate I think if you do some research on moisture meters, you’ll find that they aren’t terribly reliable They give a lot of false indications but what I needed it for on this project was to give an initial reading and Then see if that reading changes over the following months Which fortunately it did in in our favor after five months of drying the numbers were very much in our favor I’m 69 years old. We’ve waited long enough time is ticking. It’s time to put this boat back together and move on The best information I have on this is up to 10 percent Moisture is acceptable for rebuilding but if you have better information, then please share it in the comments So others who are watching this video can benefit from your knowledge Environmental concerns and many of these foreign boatyards is it not the concern that it would be in? America New Zealand, Australia or many other countries But we would still set up our old mainsail drop cloth as a containment cloth Not only for our dust but to keep our neighbors dust off of our boat, especially when they were sandy steel We had to get a system going for patching up all of these irregular shaped blisters so first they were numbered and then we got out a sheet of plastic a Manual held it up while Elvis traced out the outline of each numbered blister Then that piece of plastic was cut out along the magic marker line and used as a pattern to cut out the fiber glass repair cloth Concentric Li smaller pieces of cloth were used then to help fill a depression It was the judgment call of whoever’s working on that particular void that Particular patch on how many layers of cloth to cut to help fill that depression This cloth is called biaxial because of its particular weave as opposed to this more traditional type of cloth Sometimes called boat weave on the backside of this is Chopped strand mat this chopped strand mat is actually sewn when with threads onto the biaxial together This is often times called combi Co MBI? but it’s also known as 1708 because the biaxial cloth weighs 17 ounces per square yard and the chopped strand mat weighs 8 ounces per square yard good strong combination we will use this for all of our Repairs all the blister repairs all the laminating and the build up and we’ll generally put the chopped strand mat side Down onto the repair first and build up from there Now the chopped strand mat has a nice way of folding into a lot of the defects and depressions of our repair work On the final layer will put peel ply peel ply as a floss It’s a polyester cloth very finely woven, but you just put it on as though it’s another layer of fiberglass cloth and but you don’t Wet out around the edges You don’t want to glue the edges down, but when everything is all set up you peel this off against it’ll leave a texture Equal to the weave of the cloth So it has tooth for the next layer of cloth to bed to and adhere to and along with using the peel ply Any Amin blush, which is a chemical reaction in epoxy resins comes off in the peel ply so there’s no more washing or any other prep work that’s needed on our laminate on our lay up after the peel ply comes off actually a mean blush is a reaction between the epoxy hardener and the Surrounding humidity in the atmosphere Some hardness like what’s used in two-part epoxy putty don’t create amine blush So we have all of our stacks of pre-cut glass all lined up ready to go now All we need is some fiberglass resin and this is epoxy gur at 106. Resin using slow hardener It’s a 1 to 5 mix this is very similar to is West system 105 and these pumps are very easy to use for these small mixes and Talento is our mixer man. It was so easy just to SATA lente. I need 5 and he’d give us 5 pumps or we need 6 or we need 7 and He would just mix up what we need. And this was his full-time job all day long Cilenti is wearing a double respirator Only because I was working on a separate project myself and I had him mixing up thickened epoxy with Cabo Sill Cabo still is a very flaky powder. You do not want to breathe If we needed a big batch of resin Then we would use a small kitchen scale to weigh it out all of us an annual worked well together The Emmanuel was the more experienced apply man, and Elvis supplied him with everything that he needed next It doesn’t matter who you are in South Africa even adult boat owners go around this repair yard barefoot tough African feet they have CIPO has been working in this boat yard for at least 15 years He knows everything about everything and I’ve learned a lot from them he’s starting out filling up these small depressions with smaller pieces of Fiberglass cloth and then working into larger diameters sections to eventually fill up the whole depression And certainly rolling out any air bubbles that might be entrapped in the laminate Years ago Emmanuel started out here as a security guard now. He just like CIPA is one of the best fiberglass men and all-around boat repair guys and available in the morning talento gets to pull all the other peel ply off of our previous day’s patching and That’ll give us an idea of when we have to lay in more fiberglass cloth Do some sanding or what if we just get to start cutting and fairing everything Celente started out in this boat yard working on the catamaran that was hauled out in front of it Polishes that catamaran was used in our how to clean the bottom of the video tips from the pros I saw how hard he went every day non-stop So I had a ragam and he’s caught on very quickly on how to mix resin same isn’t doesn’t Apply resin and looser layup so he’s becoming a very good fiberglass man himself Along with all the other things that about you parry arguments to have done Sotell NT is an independent contractor Now that we don’t need him anymore He stays very busy because he’s very desired by all the other private boat owners who were hauled out and need some excellent work done Using the peel ply helped tremendously to smoothen the surface unfilled laminate But we still had to go back with the 7-inch this sander and also the six-inch random orbit sander to help smooth things even more To repair anything for cutting and patching and that’s where a lot of previous work to begin This boat needed Massive amounts of cutting and fairing from the gunnel all the way down to the bottom of the keel and it would be very impractical to try to mix up two-part epoxy resin and mixing the Proper fillers and everything else and then get it out of the bucket before it’s set up and onto the boat and ferret out So we chose to use a two-part Ready Mix fairing compound s fare 600 which we got from AMT composites out of Durban and we would have them send it up on a little truck And whenever we needed more it’s good stuff Everything on this whole project is only epoxy We never used any polyester or vinyl ester resins for anything, but the S fare, you just mix it up One-to-one by volume Or if it’s by weight, it’s 100 to 64. And the first number is always the Resin, so that would be 100 parts and the 64 would be the hardener quantity It’s very easy to mix this stuff by an eye you make two nice globs of equal size and shape and then mix it all together thoroughly and Then you’re ready to go. But still the working time is very short You do have to move fast and this is probably about as much as what we could mix up at one time And get it on the boat before Having it start to set up and become useless to us spreading the putty thin and white on the mixing board like this Decreases the amount of heat build-up so it increases the amount of working time before it starts to set up before applying any compound to the boat we first washed everything thoroughly to get the sanding dust off using a lot of fresh water and A terry cloth towel to wipe everything down as though we’re washing a car a scrub brush Just does not work always leaves sanding dust and other contaminants behind we need a very clean surface for all of this to adhere to Properly but after washing and everything’s drying then we went back and wiped everything down with acetone and very clean paper towels or very clean rags that we had laundered trials are a putty knives like this or Sheetrock compound knives like this one We’re adequate for some of these smaller areas in flatter areas, but once we got into much larger compound curves or large great areas We tried to find something that would work much better and that would conform to the compound shapes so we finally figured that out and we made our own tools get into that in the next video in this series part 2 And we also show you how we made long boards for sanding all of this stuff down and getting in Even finish it was a lot of work

    6 Criteria to Consider before Purchasing a Marine Monitor for Your Boat or Yacht
    Articles, Blog

    6 Criteria to Consider before Purchasing a Marine Monitor for Your Boat or Yacht

    February 22, 2020

    So you’re ready to purchase a new marine monitor for your boat or yacht or maybe several monitors How do you go about evaluating different models to make sure you end up with the perfect model to meet your needs? I’m Keith with Green Marine Monitors, and that’s what this video is all about So this is the second video in a two-part video series on Evaluating marine monitors in the first video. We walked you through the process of Evaluating monitors by viewing their specification sheets Different manufacturers list things differently we wanted to make sure you were getting a true apples-to-apples Comparison on the specs. In this video we’re going to assume you’ve already narrowed down to a few different models that you want to actually go now and take a physical Demonstration of either at a boat show or in a dealer showroom. The very first thing I would recommend is if you’re going to a dealer showroom that you call ahead and ask them that if the Monitor is in a display case that they would remove it from the case So that you can actually get a hands-on, and you’ll see why in just a little bit. The very first thing that you want to do when evaluating a marine monitor And we’re going to give you 6 things to check that maybe you haven’t thought of before is to do a simple heat test now we want to make sure that the monitor has been on for at least 10 minutes and Preferably even longer and the heat test is just simply this you Place your hand on the front glass of the monitor and if you feel anything other than just a very very Slight warmth, then that should raise a red flag to you. With today’s Led Hi-brite Technology There’s no reason for a high bright marine monitor to run anything other than just very very warm to the touch Remember heat is the enemy of electronics and a marine monitor that runs hot is a marine monitor That could have reliability problems The second thing we’re going to evaluate is the mounting of the monitor This is one of the reasons why I asked to have the monitor removed from a display case now There’s a couple things we want to consider here if the monitor is going to be panel mounted into a console We want to make sure That there’s room for the mounting clips to clear the thickness of the console when we’re mounting the monitor from the backside What we want to try to eliminate here is when you have a carpenter on hand or an electronic installer Having to customize anything with the install which is only going to end up costing you more money So as you can see on our Green Marine 19 inch monitor here we have mounting slots in the side We actually also have mounting slots in the top The reason we have them in the top is if you’re pairing up monitors very closely together several monitors there may not be room For two mounting clips for each of those monitors to fit into that tight space You may have to move to a top mount and a bottom mount configuration So what we’re checking here is to make sure that there’s enough clearance for the mounting clip So we’re going to take our mounting clip And we’re going to make sure that we back the screw all the way out to give us the most Clearance and then we’re going to set it in the mounting slot now we want to check the distance between the backside gasket and the front side of the mounting screw And we know if our console is any thicker than that then we need to make some modifications Before we get the monitor to the boat and ready for install The third thing we need to evaluate is viewing angle of the panel itself This is another good reason to have the monitor removed from a display case And when I talk about viewing angle, I’m talking about viewing the display from the side the top or from the bottom most tft displays are of a tn Technology and I don’t want to get too technical here on the workings of the inside of an LCD tft display But here’s the what you want to check most Tn Panels have decent viewing from the top and decent viewing from the side But the picture quality starts to really go away when we’re viewing at the 6 o’clock angle I’m going to demonstrate this by picking up this monitor And I’m going to tip it towards you so that you can see how the color begins to go away When we’re viewing at the 6 o’clock position from the side of the monitor they’re still pretty good viewing and from the top as well. Now this may not be very important if it’s sitting at a Normal angle in a console either in the pilothouse or up on the fly bridge but if you’re on a work boat type of format where the monitor may be up in an overhead and you’re viewing it from the bottom side It could be very important so Depending on how your monitor is going to be mounted and what angle it’s going to be mounted at it’s just one more thing That’s easy and simple to double check while you’re at the dealership to make sure that the viewing angle is going to suit your needs The fourth thing that we’re going to take a look at is Reflections now this is a very simple test that we can do but it’s also aided by having the monitor outside of a display case It always amazes me how many boat pilot houses have a white headliner in them Or just a white fiberglass top white being the most reflective colored surface that we can have So this test is very simple and the first thing we’re going to do is actually turn the monitor off so that we have nothing on the screen Now if a monitor has a high performance anti glare or anti reflective glass You should be able to take a look at it and see that it kind of has a purplish coating now to check reflections we’re gonna actually tilt the monitor up and you’re probably have lights overhead in the Dealership or at a boat show and we’re actually going to put those lights Reflection right into the screen of the monitor. Now we’re obviously going to see the light, but it should be a very dim or dull Looking reflection. If it’s a shiny reflection or too bright where you think it would block out a picture on the screen Then that would be of some concern The fifth thing that we want to take a look at are the most commonly used functions on a marine monitor those being dimming and Switching between the different signal inputs coming in to the monitor to display on the screen The first thing we want to take a look at is dimming And it’s nice to either have a dimming knob that’s very easy to adjust the brightness of the monitor or plus and minus arrow keys to Adjust the dimming what you want to make sure is that you don’t have to go into a menu setting a few selections Deep before you can do something as common as dimming the product. The second thing is switching between signal sources again Ideally you want a single button on the front of the monitor where you can simply toggle between all the different signal Sources to get them on the display So again just check out these basic functions and make sure they’re both intuitive and easily accessible The sixth and final thing that we want to check out when we’re evaluating the monitor is you guessed it Sunglasses now this may seem like a strange thing to do as part of the evaluation But most people know that sunglasses have a polarizing film on them what you may Not realize is that marine monitors also used a polarizing technology and if the polarizing film on your sunglasses Is perpendicular to the polarizing film on the marine monitor They’re going to cancel each other out, and you’re not going to be able to see anything on the display screen So bring along your pair of sunglasses, or actually several pairs that you may wear on the boat Because different sunglasses will have different polarizing films in different configurations Check them all out While you’re in front of the monitor either at the boat show or in the dealer showroom to make sure every pair works Correctly with a monitor that you’re thinking about purchasing So there are our six tips that you may not have thought of to help you evaluate a marine monitor Hopefully you found them helpful and informative I’m Keith with Green Marine Monitors and thanks for watching


    How To Install A 3 Bow Bimini Top

    February 21, 2020

    Eevelle designs and manufacturers
    high-quality performance products for those who love the outdoor the Summerset Cooltech series bimini top featuring Aqualone Edge Cooltech fabric is the
    best choice for outstanding performance and durability
    the Summerset Cooltech series Bimini table comes as a complete kit including
    canvas frame and mounting hardware remove the canvas from the bag and lay
    out the pieces on a clean dry surface lay out the crossbars and slide
    crossbars down the Bimini sleeves insert the ends of the crossbars into the side
    of the frame and lock into place measure to compare the mounting points on your
    boat width of frame attach the mounting swivel to the end of the frame clean and
    mask off the area where you’ll be working position the frame in the
    mounting area open frame and confirm the position and coverage are correct mark
    the mounting points of the swivels drill pilot holes for the screws countersink
    the holes to prevent the fiberglass from splintering apply silicon to the holes
    to ensure a watertight fit repeat the drilling process to mount the
    eye strap loops secure the loop end of the web strap to Bimini frame and attach
    the strap to the eye strap loop using the clip on strap repeat for all straps
    adjust the straps and tighten canvas release front straps to close the top
    and collapse the Bimini rearward fold canvas towards frame then secure in
    storage boot the summerset cool tech series bimini top are designed to
    satisfy the most discriminating customers with marine grey fabric heavy
    duty frames and stainless steel mounting hardware
    this kit is manufactured with the highest quality materials for superior
    durability Eevelle quality and performance by design

    How To Replace A Hose On Your Boat | BoatUS
    Articles, Blog

    How To Replace A Hose On Your Boat | BoatUS

    February 14, 2020

    Hi I’m Mark Call from Boat US Magazine
    welcome aboard. Today I’m going to be changing out this hose on this boat here
    as you can see it’s very cracked and it could fail at any moment and if the sea
    cock was open and the hose let go would flood the boat and we could potentially
    sink the boat so it’s always a good idea to keep an eye on all the hoses on the
    boat check them if you see any cracking it’s cheap insurance just to replace
    them out so the first thing we’re going to do is to turn off the sea cop and
    I’ve already done that so that there’s no water comes in the boat when we take
    the hose off next we’re going to undo the hose clamps there’s one up both ends
    I’ve already taken off the top one pull the hose clear put that to one side I
    have a new length of hose here so the first thing I’m going to do is slip that I already cut this to the right size so
    I know it’s going to fit and we’ve got some hose clamps here it’s important to
    only use good quality stainless steel hose clamps if you use cheap hardware
    store closed clamps sometimes they’re not proper stainless steel or the band
    may be stainless steel but the bolt is actually just a plain steel and then
    that will corrode and they will let go you may have noticed that when we took
    this apart of an only one hose clamp on here baby why see recommendations are
    that for any through-hole any hose clamp below the waterline there’s usually two
    hose clamps on there so I’m going to go ahead and slip a couple of hose clamps
    on there then tighten those up so first one goes on most of these have
    a hexagonal style screw so you can either use the screwdriver as I’m doing
    well you can actually use a small socket wrench so the first ones on and that’s
    tight then I’m gonna get another hose clamp and slip this on
    and you may notice that I’m putting these at 180 degrees to each other this
    is the correct orientation this should not have the same screws on the same
    side the reason being is that it’s possible
    for the water to leak by a little bit so we want to make sure that you get the
    best possible connection okay that’s nice and tight now when I
    connect up the other end to more hose clamps
    so obviously before I go and struggle the pipoint I’m going to make sure I get
    both hose clamps same thing again we’ll put those at 90 degrees to each other they should be snug they don’t need to
    be over tight so just double-check that that’s nice and tight now so we’ve
    stripped out the old hose I’ve put the new hose on now we’ve got two hose
    clamps at top and bottom at 108 degrees to each other exactly as they should be
    the last thing to do is open up the sea top and check for leaks. We have no leaks
    everything looks good so I’m going to go right ahead now and check the rest of
    the hoses on the boat for more information on this you can go to Thank you for watching

    DanelecConnect – Intelligent and cost efficient ship-2-shore data solutions
    Articles, Blog

    DanelecConnect – Intelligent and cost efficient ship-2-shore data solutions

    February 13, 2020

    Do you need to gather vessel data from your fleet,
    no matter where in the world they are? With DanelecConnect you can collect onboard sensor data
    through an Internet-Of-Things infrastructure. Data is preprocessed onboard and
    can be customized and selected from shore Data is compressed and transmitted to shore
    over a low bandwidth satellite connection with maximum one megabyte usage per day ensuring low-cost data transmission At shore, data is safely stored
    on our Danelec server in the cloud. From here, data can be assigned to
    relevant users by the ship manager. Users can access the DanelecConnect
    Application platform and used with Danelec and 3rd-party applications
    for monitoring Performance Safety and Remote maintenance Do you want to know more? Visit