Browsing Tag: sail

    How We Spent over $16,000 in the Boat Yard
    Articles, Blog

    How We Spent over $16,000 in the Boat Yard

    December 8, 2019


    Recently we encountered a problem that
    was initially to take two to three weeks and around 2000 euros to fix. In
    reality it cost around four and a half months and over 16 thousand euros. This is
    the story of our nightmare haul out. This is a situation that I don’t
    completely understand and I’m not sure how much of it is my own ignorance, lost
    in translation, laziness, happenstance or actual malice,
    but to quote to Napoleon Bonaparte “I want to never ascribe to malice that
    which is adequately explained by incompetence”, and Tim Ferriss added, “or
    busyness”, and I would like to add or laziness. Never ascribe to malice that
    which is adequately explained by incompetence, busyness or laziness. That
    being said I’d like to lay out this situation as objectively as I possibly
    can in the hopes that we might all learn something. To set the stage the three of
    us set out from Spain close to 10 months ago. As to be expected from life as we
    were moving forward we encountered many obstacles that together we overcame.
    Mistakes were made and lessons were learned but entering into Croatia we see
    the first signs of real trouble. The other day we lost reverse gear. Went to
    put it in gear and it wasn’t there. Scavenger Jack signing out. Jackson had to
    catch his flight to North America to finish his degree in filmmaking
    while Tara and I head north towards Pula Croatia where we are scheduled to film with Made On The Road UK and have a Balkan campervan scheduled for rental to
    explore Croatia. We made a stop on the island of Mali Losinj where friends of
    Alessandro came and diagnosed the problem with the gearbox.
    These are lamella. They allow you to shift into forward, into neutral, and into
    reverse by gripping and not gripping the gears. The ones in this gearbox…It’s like a polish you know and that’s enough that under the pressure he don’t have a grip to make good connection
    for the reverse. We were told we should prepare for a rebuild of the
    transmission. Not having reverse is a big problem, but it’s not the end of
    the world because we could still move forward so we continued north to our
    obligations in Pula. This is where it starts to get weird.
    We contacted Ad Maris in Marina Veruda in Pula, Croatia. Patrick came to the boat
    and told us that it would greatly reduce the cost of time, labor, and headache to
    have the whole engine removed rather than struggle in the cramped engine bay
    with a big heavy gearbox for hours BUT this would necessitate a haul out.
    Initially we thought this idea was absurd but then we came to the
    conclusion that if we could spend a few weeks on land we could make some needed
    repairs and upgrades to Arianrhod now instead of the original plan was at some
    point in the distant future to have a haul out in Tunisia Africa, which is
    where Martin recommended. We also had a van for a week so this meant that we
    could leave Arianrhod on land in a safe secure location while we explored
    Croatia. The idea was beginning to look all right. The next morning, as we were
    making breakfast, Patrick called and 45 minutes later he and this boat
    arrived and they were ready to take us to the crane for a haul out. The pressure
    of this sales tactic is intense. We agreed to the haul out. This is
    turning out to be an eventful day. Within two hours Arianrhod was out
    of the water and the engine was completely detached and she was prepped
    for open engine surgery. The following day Adis, Patrick’s boss, and his crew
    arrived and we commenced the engine removal. Before noon her old battered, but still
    solid heart was removed and the gearbox was on its way for inspection. It was
    also determined that we needed a new clutch and that the parts would be
    difficult to find. We’ll send the gearbox to Rijeka. We will check if we can find the new part because we don’t have new parts this old. Returning to the gutted vessel slightly
    dazed we cleaned out the engine bay as best as we could. This is where the
    situation becomes really muddled. Adis. Comes and tells us that they don’t think
    that they can repair the gearbox because it’s an old engine and it’s impossible
    to find the parts and if they can find the parts it will cost around 8,000 euro
    to rebuild the gearbox and fix everything. His solution was instead of
    repairing it, it might be wiser to just shell out another five thousand euro to
    purchase a brand new Yanmar engine from him, of course, with a warranty for
    security for the years to come. We would be back on the water in three weeks and
    it would cost just over thirteen thousand euros. Now he made some good
    points. The engine is old and the parts for it can be difficult to find and
    it’s arguable whether or not a new engine is more reliable. The question
    really becomes if you plan on crossing the Atlantic and beyond, do you want an
    old repaired engine or do you want a brand new one? This was very difficult to
    hear and I turned to Reddit and I found a complete Kanzaki KH 18 gearbox in the
    USA to replace ours. It could be purchased for $1000, but
    shipping, importing, installation, all said and done it would cost near eight to
    nine thousand dollars. We also looked seriously into converting to electric as
    the dream is to one day be completely off of fossil fuels. We’re going to a
    factory to look at electric motors. But it seemed for us it was going to cost, at a minimum, of 12,000 euros. Meanwhile we asked Adis if we
    could have our gearbox returned because I wanted to see if we could find
    somebody else to fix it. We were returned a box of gears, not a gearbox. I’m still
    not sure how I feel about that. We ended up going with the Beta Marine 38 horsepower
    engine over our other seemingly less ideal options. With the decision this
    costly I was definitely not gonna let somebody pressure me into purchasing an
    engine that I was not completely on board with. We ended up flying to Morocco for two weeks because we needed a change of atmosphere. We returned and we continued on repairs
    while we waited for the new engine. We got a new Genoa. A new sail, a Genoa.
    We shredded the other one. And all the sail makers said that, “well, you could repair it, but it’ll definitely break again really soon.” Because it’s been repaired multiple times. So this one made by a professional sail maker here in Pula, Elvis. Genoa with the Sunbrella. It’s got this here to tension the foot. We removed and reinforced the davit
    plates. We extended the davits aft 30 centimeters as well as added cross
    supports all completed by Robert. I stripped roughly 20 kilograms of unused
    electrical wire and hose from Arianrhod. We saved maybe five kilograms as supplies
    and cleaned up the distribution panel. It took me two and a half days to buff Arianrhod And we completed many other smaller projects. It ended up taking
    around seven weeks for the Beta Marine engine to arrive and once we knew it was
    coming we were moved into position so the crane could access Arianrhod. This is our new engine. Wow. It’s really pretty. A quick aside we
    were never able to sell our wounded but functioning Yanmar 3qm 38 engine because
    we didn’t have papers for it. To me it seems like if you live in Western
    society specifically the European Union then you live in a society that values
    documentation over form and function and this hinders creativity and I do not
    believe that a socio-economic system that squashes individual creativity will
    endure, but I digress. Because the engine was delayed by two weeks it arrived
    three days after the workers at the marina took off for holiday. Because in
    Europe it is common for many people to take a couple months off of work in the
    winter. Adis told us that he would not help us and instead we should try to
    find somebody else to help us because he would be on holiday, but all the
    mechanics were on holiday, and so the only help that Adis actually provided was
    a number for a contact in Split. A man named Igor who we bought our Beta Marine
    engine from and then after that we never saw or heard from Adis again. I had resolved to install the engine.
    I removed the old coupling and I found that the propeller shaft was 32
    millimeters in diameter and our new coupling is made for a 30 millimeter
    propeller shaft. We need to remove the propeller shaft and turn it on a lathe
    to reduce the diameter by 2 millimeters. I do not have access to a metal shop and
    I do not have the tools to pull a propeller. Finally I contacted Robert who
    had made adjustments to our davits. He agreed to reduce the shaft, replace the
    Cutlass bearing stuffing box, seacock strainer basket, and install and align the
    engine all for 2000 euro plus materials. We thought this was a bit steep but we
    agreed as we had finally found someone to help us. So then, does this corrode? No.
    Because you have the zinc on it? Bronze doesn’t corrode. Doesn’t corrode.
    Agh, I did not know that. It’s been four months and three days and
    today we are installing a new engine. It’s like a hundred and thirty eight
    kilos which is around 60 kilos lighter than previously. Slowly down. Little bit more. Little bit. Good. Stop. Going back. Okay. Slow. Little bit down. Stop. Okay, we can proceed. Go, go, go. Stop? No, go down. Down. Down. Stop. Little bit up. Up just a little bit. Stop. Stop. So far, so good. Pull it out and cut the tube a little bit
    maybe five centimeters and cut the shaft. So, here’s the problem. This is too close. We
    have an adapter, a rubber adapter, it’s about five centimeters has to fit in
    there and there’s no space between here and this is the coupling, the
    transmission, the stuffing box. This pipe right here this through-hole we need to
    cut that and then move this stuffing box aft maybe five centimeters and then we
    have to cut the propeller shaft so that it’s the correct length and then we can
    have this space in between here the two couplings so that we will be able to
    attach on, but the alignment looks good. We need five extra centimeters here. We’re good up front. Now the back. Yes, but put away the…take them out? Yes. Okay and then now I’m going inside and you must stay up here then we pull out the motor. Forward. Yes, a little bit. Okay, stop. This we must cut. Yep. Eight
    centimeter. Eight centimeters. You’re hot. They say maybe it’s hot and it’s
    going…yeah, expanded? Yes. Without hammer, nothing. I’ll be fluent in Croatian in no time. Doran? Is that what you said? Down? No, down is dolje. See. Told you. Fluent in Croatian, no problem. Dolje. What’s up? I mean that everything will be perfect. Perfect. Yes, everything will be fine. Engine installed. Now just to do proper alignment, secure it down, and then hook it up. Should be ready to start up tomorrow.
    I think we’ll give it a test start. We installed the raw water
    cooling system and the fuel lines. Then we realized the exhaust system
    needs to be adjusted with a high-rise. That right there that’s the problem.
    Otherwise it would run the risk of water entering back into the engine and
    blowing a cylinder from the rapid expansion of the water vapor. The next
    day we added oil and coolant and we hooked up a new battery and tried to
    start the engine for the first time. Robert created a custom high-rise for
    around 200 euro. The other option was to wait four weeks and spend over 300 euro
    to get one from Igor. We installed the high-rise and tested the engine while
    supplementing fresh water for the raw water cooling system. We used a temporary
    transparent exhaust tube to be certain that all the water was straining into
    the water log. Woo! Woo-hoo! I couldn’t stand the thought of throwing
    the old Yanmar out and instead gave it to Robert. We determined it was time to
    launch Arianrhod. After four and a half months of
    bleeding money and suffering stagnation we watched in amazement as Arianrhod
    was put back in the water. As soon as we were in the water we
    started the engine and checked for leaks. Alright, starting the motor for the first water test. Ready? Ready. Stop. Give it just a little bit of throttle, Tara. What? No, no, they asked if they can put away the…crane? The crane. And then, we’re good? Yes. Water don’t come in. We were then promptly shoo’ed off the dock before we
    were settled in. We were literally being pushed off the dock and told to go find
    a slip as it was raining and the wind was blowing around ten knots. They told us
    they needed the space immediately to lift another boat, which they lifted an
    hour and a half later. Once safely in our slip Robert helped us install our
    long-awaited Cubic Mini Wood Stove. We thanked Robert for his honesty, his hard
    work, and his flexibility and then we prepared to set sail. The period from September 2018 to January 2019 was one of the most
    stressful and by far the most expensive period of my life but that’s good
    because I learned a slew of invaluable lessons. Here are three of the
    many lessons learned from our nightmare haul out. Number 1: never let anybody
    hurry you especially if you have to pay them. Slow down. Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast. That comes from the US Special Forces. Lesson Number 2: regular rest prevents
    downward spirals. Rest regularly or you will exhaust yourself and when you’re
    exhausted you will make a series of poor decisions that will begin momentum in a
    downward spiral. First, you have to halt that downward momentum before you can
    turn it around and create upward momentum. To prevent a downward spiral
    from happening in the first place regularly rest.
    Working yourself to death is not helpful for anyone. And lesson Number 3: always
    expect things to be more difficult and to take more time than you anticipate. In
    the Tao Te Ching Lao Tzu wrote something like this in Chapter 63: the sage
    expects everything to be difficult and therefore never encounters difficulty. This concludes Season One of SV Arianrhod. Season One was 13 episodes and took about
    ten months to create. It produced around a thousand dollars in revenue and costed
    over 50,000 dollars to create and that’s without me on payroll. If you enjoy these videos and would like to see more and would like to
    enable us to create more share the series with your friends. The best way to
    support the channel to support FLORB to support SV Arianrhod and Alternative
    Living Spaces is to share these series with your friends. Get more people
    excited about sailing vessel Arianrhod and Alternative Living Spaces. If you
    enjoy the videos and you have the means support FLORB on Patreon. Even if you can
    support one dollar per episode all of it helps us be able to create
    more for you. Let’s Explore Life Together. And check out this crazy Floating Orb
    that we all live on and share and call home. Big Love. See you soon.

    How to Create a Sugared Sailboat
    Articles, Blog

    How to Create a Sugared Sailboat

    December 1, 2019


    Hi, I’m Kirsty Meakin from Naio Nails. In
    this video, I’m going to show you how to do a cute little sailboat using the sugared
    effect. So we’ve got the polka dot design already done on this nail, but we’re going
    to take it further and add a little sailing boat. If you want to see the video of how
    to create this design, if you go to the descriptions, you’ll see the link there. So what we’re
    going to do, we’re going to do a sanding effect. For that we’ll need some Mega Gloss,
    I’m just going to pop some of that onto the pallet. Because it’s got a nice thick
    consistency it’s really easy to do this with. And then we’ve also got Neptune Infinity
    Super Fine Glitter. It’s a nice, gorgeous navy, that is. So with the Mega Gloss, use
    your detailing brush. And we’re going to do a very simple sailing boat. So we’ve got one sail there. It’s hard to see, I know. And we have another sail here. And a little flag on the top. And then we’ve got the actual boat at the bottom. Just checking that. Then, with the Super Fine Glitter, we’re going to sprinkle that over the top, tap off
    the excess. Add any more if you need to. Then we can pop that into the lamp for one minute. So I’m just going to finish with a little bit of cuticle oil. Rub that round. So you’ve
    got that sugared effect little sail boat on your dotted nail.

    Bulkhead Repair on a Sailboat- Using a Laminate Trimmer & Plastic -Patrick Childress Sailing #57
    Articles, Blog

    Bulkhead Repair on a Sailboat- Using a Laminate Trimmer & Plastic -Patrick Childress Sailing #57

    December 1, 2019


    this is part two of changing this to
    this and making sure that the upper shroud chain plate bulkhead will never
    deteriorate again hello we are Patrick that Rebecca
    Childress on the valiant forty brick house
    we are currently hauled out in Richards Bay South Africa going through the boat
    doing a lot of things making some modifications and getting this boat
    ready to Atlantica but first we have to finish up this project isolating this
    wood bulkhead from any possible leakage from the upper shroud chain plate and I
    made one template using two pieces of cardboard it’s a lot easier to do it
    that way and then tape them together then we’ll bring them downstairs lay it
    out on top of the FIR mica and then start the cutting process for me the easiest way to cut plastic
    laminate like Formica or wilsonart is another brand name is to use a laminate
    trimmer and that is a small router that spends a two-bladed cutter at very high
    rpms and in this case I’ve already marked out the template onto this big
    sheet of plastic laminate but it’s just too big to deal with I want to cut it
    down to a smaller size and make it more manageable so I’m setting up a straight
    edge hold in place with clamps and then I’ll run the base plate of the laminate
    trimmer along that straight edge and make that as my first cut to cut out the
    finished product on this job I’ll be using two different cutter bits these
    are both 90-degree bits as opposed to beveled bits beveled bits would
    generally be used on countertop edges so that you don’t have such a sharp edge to
    rub against the orange bit in the machine right now I would use as a
    plunge bit making plunge cuts in the center of large sheets of Formica to
    open up an area that would then be made larger later on in the work process to
    make a long straight cut using that orange bit the base plate of the machine
    would then write against a straight edge that would be clamped to the work the
    yellow bit has a ball bearing roller guide on it so that will follow any
    profile that is clamped below the work surface of the plastic laminate whether
    it’s straight or curved this is the same yellow roller bearing guide bit running
    against a straight edge cutting a piece of polycarbonate and it will be just as
    straight and smooth as the guide that the roller bearing is following these
    bits rotate in a clockwise direction looking down from above so it’s best to
    move the machine at a direction so it tends to throw the chips and bits away
    from the work rather than into it it seems nothing ever fits right on the
    first try so a little marking here and there and then a trip back down to the
    ground it was easier actually to put 150 grit paper in
    sandir in sand to the blue line rather than set up the laminate trimmer and try
    to trim it out that way I had a problem when I went to the
    hardware store to buy the glue that I needed to put the Formica on to the
    bulkhead I asked the clerk standing in the aisle for contact cement and no
    matter how I asked him he assured me the smallest amount that they had was a
    50-pound bag so I was standing in the paint section I knew it had to be close
    by and then I finally saw the cans on the shelf contact adhesive they call it
    in these other countries so we had a good laugh about that one
    but I finally did get what I needed so now we are ready to stick the first
    piece in place this smelly solvent based adhesive works far better than the
    useless water-based contact adhesive and generally it takes two coats on the
    Formica or on the plastic laminate and I’ll just put one coat up on the wall in
    this case I’m just putting some around the perimeter this is risky business
    once this stuff sticks together there’s no manoeuvring it around it has
    to be a perfect exact plop up against the wall and there’s just no room for
    error so I’m just going to put some around the edges here it doesn’t matter
    if it’s not adhered in the center there’s going to be a bracket to hold a
    shelf in the middle and some other things so it’s going to be well adhered
    but it’s most important right now is just to get it glued in around the edges
    without messing up the project now that little projection up at the top left of
    the sheet of plastic laminate that’s where the old chain plate hole used to
    be but that’s all been filled in with epoxy and fiberglass over on the outside
    it’s totally sealed because we’re going to be making a new hole on this side of
    the plastic laminate so I made another template to match the front of this
    cabinet took that down cut out the Formica plastic laminate and then I mark
    the inside edge of the door opening with a magic marker
    and I’ll take that back down cut that out again it just makes it a little
    easier for putting on the contact cement and doing the final cutting do the exact
    dimensions of the door frame work with two coats of contact adhesive on the
    backside the plastic laminate and it is all dry
    almost dry to the touch of a fingertip to the glue it’s ready to set this in
    place it’s a very delicate precise operation to make sure everything gets
    lined up exactly if I really made a terrible mistake there’s a chance of
    getting a hair dryer set on high or using a clothes iron or maybe even a
    paint stripping heat gun set on low to heat up the plastic laminate and
    especially the glue underneath to loosen it up to pull it apart and then give
    myself a second try today is a lucky day now to route out the inside edge of the
    door frame so I set up the yellow bit with the bearing guide set that just
    deep enough to right inside of the door frame in to cut the plastic laminate
    going around in a clockwise direction so it throws all the chips and bits away
    from the work I just slowly follow the inside of the doorframe until the base
    plate of the laminate trimmer this won’t go any more we get hung up on the far
    side on the far right side but that’s no problem we’ve got a solution coming up
    and it isn’t doing it by hand putting the trimmer bit in an electric
    drill allows one to get it into some very tight places but the electric drill
    runs at a much slower rpm so you have to work slow and carefully or risk chipping
    out the work this boat is 43 years old and there’s
    things that just fall off of it like these cleats that are supposed to be
    adhered to the fiberglass hull and they hold up the horizontal deck slats so we
    cleaned things up a bit of sanding mix up some thickened epoxy with Caviezel
    and butter it all up and squeeze them in and then find something to help hold
    them in place until the glue sets taking everything apart to do the rebuild on
    this project not everything especially the teak pieces come out intact so some
    of the trim has to be glued back together with epoxy oftentimes clamps
    won’t hold it but rubber bands do fine and the rubber
    bands they don’t really get epoxy done it doesn’t adhere to well through the
    rubber bands and they can easily be sanded off anyway and that is sips job
    the whole time I’m inside doing this work sip is outside sanding teak and
    doing all the varnish work all of these flats were originally
    installed at the valiant factor using common steel grads so over the decades
    those grads just turned into a rusty mess they barely held anything it was
    really the compression fit the good work of the carpenters who cut exactly right
    and is that compression fit that was holding most of these slats in place and
    then the big problem was getting those rusty nails out of the wood they would
    just fall apart so most of them I had to drill out and then use putty to putty up
    and smooth and over those holes for reinstallation of all of these slats I
    used stainless steel pan head screws and set up string lines to follow to try to
    get as straight of a line as possible and the time came before putting up the
    fiberglass ceiling panel to cut the new access hole for the chain plate but
    first I put up very thick duct tape to help protect the new Formica and then
    using a multi-tool did a vertical plunge cut right up through the very thick
    fiberglass decking and it would be easy enough to avoid that hole from outside
    of the boat the multi-tool is a great tool to have on a sail boat and it has a
    blade that oscillates side-to-side and obviously can get into some very tight
    places to make sure that there was no rotten balsa coring in this area we
    opened the area up and dug everything out and then built it up with layers and
    layers of 1708 which is biaxial cloth with a chopped strand mat backing is
    solid it took a bit of reaming with a drill bit to open up the chain played
    hole and then this whole area was painted the chain plate was installed
    and then sealed in place with butyl sealant butyl tape actually and the heat
    gun was used to help liquefy the butyl a little bit make it more pliable and then
    crammed down into the gaps on either side of the chain plate for many
    applications especially around chain plates I prefer butyl in a caulking gun
    tube it’s just more pliable it’s easier to pump into the voids but unfortunately
    this butyl tube is empty but I save it just to show everywhere
    trying to buy more of it it’s american-made butyl and that’s the only
    kind of butyl in a caulking gun tube that is worth using Chinese all the
    foreign made butyl is just a lot of junk and it just isn’t the same stuff after
    that the only thing left to do was to install the shelves which was easy
    enough and then figure out what to do to replace that ready old insulation that
    was on the inside of the hull up in the stereo cabinet so let’s go into the
    marine store and see what they might have for insulation to glue up along the
    hull so the option for insulation to glue up
    on the wall was this rubber mat or this rubber mat 12 millimeters thick which is
    a little bit less than 1/2 inch and it felt like a rubber exercise mat and it
    came in either black or like early american-made cars black there was no
    option here on what to use so unless you’re dealing with Space Shuttle winged
    tiles where you can put a blowtorch on one side and comfortably put your hand
    on the other a half inch of anything available at the Marine store isn’t
    going to give us much insulating value aerogel is another super insulator but
    aerogel and space shuttle wing tiles are bit pricey and certainly limited
    availability especially for gluing up on the inside
    wall of sailboats so if you know of anything that works especially well
    that’s affordable for cruisers for insulating the inside of their sailboat
    if you can leave that information down below in the comments section that would
    be a great help to a lot of people so this insulation is really there to help
    prevent condensation inside of the boat don’t click off just yet we have a video
    progress report on the outside work of this boat
    well the bottom is already for copper coat all the puttying and patching and
    painting on the outside has been done we’ve gotten a lot of work done on this
    boat over the last 7 months there’s still a few more things to do but I’ve
    got a lot of video to put together so we have a lot of DIY videos coming up so
    thanks a lot for watching I hope this was worthwhile for you and if it was
    please give it a thumbs up and also click on the subscribe button if you
    haven’t already thanks a lot and we’ll see you soon a sip
    hey there’s my friendship yeah yeah thanks do you got it all
    started SIPP went to work full-time for a contractor here so I’m happy to give
    them a start and now we’ve got a lifetime job forever and this is our new
    guy the little rainy day today so we’re just finishing up polishing up some
    propane tanks do a little sanding on them and primer good rainy day work

    How we spend an average day on a sailboat
    Articles, Blog

    How we spend an average day on a sailboat

    November 25, 2019


    Today I’m gonna show you how we spend a totally average day on the Caribbeans on a yacht, so let’s start with taking out the trash, going to the laundry, then the petrol station to fill the dinghy up, then we’re gonna have a look around in the city… …looking for interesting stuff. So that’s it… let’s go! So here’s what happened… We’ve asked every living person on this island who looked like a local guy, and… we found out… that… the petrol station is on the other island.. so now we’re going to that island… and see what happens. So here we are! Going for fuel to the other island, because they don’t have it on this one. Going to the main island. So we arrived back, we’ve been on the island behind me… They informed us that there is fuel, we couldn’t even berth… so we don’t know…there were huge waves, eastern wind, outwards… we didn’t try, because it would have ended badly, the dinghy is already full of sand. We don’t have backup fuel for the dinghy. The main… …tank, which is 15 liters is maybe… half full… so we have 6-7 liters fuel. We can manage…we can… go ashore, it’s not a problem. We don’t really have to go to the city, so we will seek a petrol station on Dominica, and fill the kettle! We decided to make hamburgers, we have everything… except bum… so back to the city, into Carefour, hamburger bum, and back to the yacht… and make hamburgers! We were unlucky. We saw a small cloud, headed out, and a big gray cloud came from behind the mountain, now it’s above us… nothing dangerous.. but… I’m pretty sad because we wanted to play with our drone and… it may cross our plans… We wanted tho show you the bay, and the islands! Well… Guave would have been better. We had to fly fast because the next gray package arrived, so I hope there is enough material and we can show you a smaller round about how.. this island looks! I hope you enjoyed! The hamburger is ready! I’m gonna eat, and go to sleep! Bye all!

    How to Sail a Sailboat : How to Trim the Sails on a Boat
    Articles, Blog

    How to Sail a Sailboat : How to Trim the Sails on a Boat

    November 24, 2019


    We are underway now, under sail and what we
    are looking for sail trim wise, is we want to get, you’ll notice that we have some telltales,
    on the jib, we have some green ones on the starboard side of that jib, and we have some
    red ones on the port side. And ideally, on a windy day, which we don’t have, you would
    want all the telltales flowing back parallel to each other and that would indicate that
    you have good wind flow on each side of the sail. The, and what that does is give you
    a good airfoil, and that gives you the lift that you want to develop as it moves about
    through the water, it allows you to go upwind. And then once you get, whoops, we don’t have
    them on this boat, okay, telltales on the mainsail. But there are some sails, some sailboats
    that have telltales on the mainsail as well. Yeah, there are, yeah, okay let me start over.
    The, there are, once you get the telltales on the jib flying correctly, today, again
    it’s, the wind is a little light and they’re not going backwards like they should be, you
    would next check your main and a lot of, a lot of mainsails will have telltales coming
    off the leech of the sail, or the trailing edge. And those should be flowing backwards,
    straight back from the sail. If they’re kept forward on one side or the other then you
    need to let the sail out or trim it in and get the sail telltales flying away from the
    back of the sail.

    The Mistral: Our OffShore Sailing Catastrophe with This Ancient Phenomenon
    Articles, Blog

    The Mistral: Our OffShore Sailing Catastrophe with This Ancient Phenomenon

    November 22, 2019


    What just happened? The plan. Sail from Cadaques, Spain to La
    Ciotat, France. A 128 nautical mile sail that is by nature, challenging. This area
    is known for a wind pattern referred to as the Mistral. High and low pressure
    cells converge and the wind that is generated is funneled south through the
    Pyrenees mountain range and the Alps. As the wind is cooled by the mountains it
    increases in density and begins to fall and build in momentum
    creating sustained periods of heavy wind, regularly around 40 knots and, in times,
    exceeding over 75 knots. The Mistral is a strong, cold, and gust ridden phenomenon that has been around since the beginning of time. It’s a type 5 PFD so once it’s
    underwater it’ll self inflate. If it doesn’t inflate whenever it’s underwater
    you pull this tab here. We got a d-ring you could use for a leash if you need to,
    otherwise it should fit nice and snug and comfortably and you should feel
    secure. Like a professional. *laughter* Sweet. This is a harness with a tether on it. You got where it comes together to make a T. That’s gonna go down on your back and
    then you got the shoulder straps like so. This strap here you can use to make a
    jack line. Already got one set up. What a jack line is is a jack line it’s just a
    secure line that runs the length of the boat so you can clip in your tether to and around the mast and you would obviously have on over
    this your PFD. As we were preparing to make way the forecast look to be sustained 25 to 35 knot wind right on the beam. So Jackson, you’ll head up into the wind. I’ll raise the main sail. Tara will ease the main sheet. And then, ugh, we’ve got two reefs in the main sail already. Jackson braved the helm for the first
    portion of the sail and we were moving well. Around 10 hours in we were visited. Our naivete led us to believe this was a
    ‘good omen’. The wind grew. What just happened? The brackets broke. No… The brackets broke? The brackets holding
    the davits on the transom both sheared. Davits were flexing heavily as it was
    only held on by a few bolts in the cockpit. Quickly I tried to devise a
    solution to relieve the pressure. The first thing I tried was to tie the
    davits to the backstay. Quickly realizing the
    futility of this idea I remembered that we used the main halyard to hoist the
    davits onto the boat. I would use the main halyard to support the davits. I tied a rolling hitch and began to
    tension the halyard. The stress was relieved, but there were
    many things that I was uncertain about. This is where, I believe, that I began to
    make a series of mistakes that turned this mishap into a catastrophe. I feared that the continued beating we were about to take from the remaining 60 miles would
    be too much for the already weakened davits. So I chose to lower the dinghy
    into the water and tow it behind thinking it would be safer afloat than
    swinging like a pendulum. In a hurry, we lowered the dinghy, failing to remove the
    redundancy line that secured the dinghy to the davits. Now with too much tension
    on them the only option was to cut the line. Many mistakes were made since Cadaques, but a clear rookie mistake was that I had elected to leave the outboard motor
    in the dinghy strapped to its sole. The dinghy was made fast to the port stern cleat and we resumed sailing on a port tack. Secured to the windward side of the
    boat, the towing line began agitating the broken davit leg against the hull. I gave the dinghy more slack in hopes that it would alleviate the pressure. As I did this the stern line that was used to
    lift the dinghy was made fast to the starboard stern cleat as a loose
    redundant line. This line then became taut and the dinghy was being dragged
    broadside behind us. Loosen the one on the starboard side. The starboard stern cleat. The starboard stern cleat? What about it? Loosen it! Just as I saw in my mind moments before it happened the starboard side of the dinghy dove and it filled with water and it violently
    capsized it. This is the only footage we have of that event. Loose the cleat!

    How to Clean a Sailboat : How to Dry a Sailboat
    Articles, Blog

    How to Clean a Sailboat : How to Dry a Sailboat

    November 21, 2019


    Hi, I’m Ches Rainier, welcome to Expert Village.
    Today we’re going to be talking about some techniques used to clean a fiberglass boat.
    Okay, now that we’ve done our rinse down, now we can go ahead and start drying the boat.
    I like to use this, it’s just a shammy, that way it’s reusable, use it over and over again.
    Pretty much you want to get all the stainless dry as quick as you can to avoid water spotting
    because most water systems are going to be running with hard water and you’re always
    going to get deposits on the windows and the stainless steel. So just as long as you get
    to that stuff first, it kind of helps avoid some of the hard work later. If your boat’s at a slip, you can put in a
    water softener filter, and that way you won’t really have to do this step because your water’s
    going to be soft water and it’s not going to spot as bad.

    How to Sail : How a Sailboat is Propelled
    Articles, Blog

    How to Sail : How a Sailboat is Propelled

    November 21, 2019


    Getting your sailboat to go upwind is a little
    more challenging. What we’re looking for here is to create something called lift and
    that’s the force that takes as upwind. What’s quite interesting is the same force that allows
    an aircraft to fly that causes the sailboat to move through the water. So, if I can just
    draw this up on the board here, hopefully, you recognize we’re looking at something
    resembling an airplane and what happens is as this aircraft accelerates along the runway,
    wind hits the leading edge of the wing. And as the wind does that the particles of air
    separate and some of the air comes up across the top of the wing and some of the air comes
    along underneath the wing. The interesting thing is physics dictates that these particles
    of air, they split at the leading edge. They arrive at the trading edge at the same time
    and that has happened, then the particles that went across the top of the wing that
    went further and arrived at the same time must have gone faster. And a fellow called
    Danny Bernoulli discovered that the faster a fluid flows then the lower the pressure.
    So what’s happening is above the wing we’re creating an area of low pressure. So, we have
    relative low pressure above the wing and higher pressure underneath the wing. It’s this
    low pressure that actually sucks the wing up into the air and we get lift and the results
    of all these lift being sucked up into the air is that the wing or the airplane is lifted
    mostly upwards and a little bit forwards. So, if I take this wing off the airplane and
    put it on my sailboat, I suppose we get the aircraft here… and imagine this to be my
    main sail. So, I’ve got a helicopter I view here as the mast and here is my sailboat,
    then we’re going up wind, so the wind is hitting the front of the boat. So, what we
    have here is the wind goes across the back of the main sail. It goes faster than the
    wind that comes across the front of the main sail, as a result, we get lift and the boat
    gets lifted mostly sideways and little bit forwards. We don’t want to go mostly sideways
    and little bit forwards, we want to go mostly forwards and little bit sideways. So what
    we have to do is introduce another wing and this wing is actually underneath the boat
    and is called the keel and as all boat tracks through the water and it doesn’t actually
    track in a dead straight line, it moves slightly sideways, that’s called a leeway. It’s
    the force of the wind causing the boat to move slightly sideways. So, as the water hits
    the keel, it actually hits at an angle. It doesn’t hit straight on, it hits at an angle
    and some of the water comes around this side of the wing and some of the water across the
    shoulder side, the stuff that goes further has to go faster and as a result we get relative
    low pressure forming on the windward side of the keel. And the lift that creates once
    again is mostly sideways and a little bit forward and it’s the resultant of the lift
    on the sails and the lift on the keel that actually allows the boat to sail mostly forwards
    and little bit sideways as we are going upwind.