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    How to Rebuild a Battery Box (LEAKING lead acid batteries on a Sailboat!!) Patrick Childress #46
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    How to Rebuild a Battery Box (LEAKING lead acid batteries on a Sailboat!!) Patrick Childress #46

    November 14, 2019


    this boat is 41 years old only recently
    did battery acid do an incredible amount of damage underneath the bunk in the aft
    cabin this is putting it all back together far better than when this boat
    was new but there is a terrible time crunch
    Rebecca is in the US and due back to Africa in a week and a half two people
    cannot live in this boat because of the total disarray of the major construction
    that is going on I have to get it completed before she returns hello we
    are Patrick and Rebecca Childress on the sailboat
    Brickhouse a valiant forty we are hauled out in Richards Bay South Africa going
    through everything on this boat preparing it to cross the Atlantic from
    Uruguay and points out okay the worst is over with now just putting it all back
    together this is under the bunk in the aft cabin okay so I’ve got things
    cleaned up in this area now I need to cut out some of this foam just a section
    maybe about an inch to allow proper drainage from this hole after area down
    into the bilge and then I need to clean up the top of this foam so I can glue a
    block of wood to help support this flooring and the new flooring that’s
    going to go on it I’ve tried different cleaners and that’s not going to do well
    enough to get the discoloration off so I’ll try this er form file and that
    looks like that’s going to clean it up so I’ll work on that and then get ready
    to make the block to glue in there so easy when you have the right tools Jenny this piece came out of here it was
    just barely held in I don’t know we just with one nail at the top
    kind of strange wasn’t glued or anything so and it’s a little wet it’s a little
    damaged so I’m gonna make a new one that will go in this other one that’s up here
    rather flimsy I’ll take that out clean up the edges that’s going to get glued
    and screwed in place along with the one that I make and at the same time we’ll
    make the spacer to go into here so down here on these cutouts in the framings
    for all these hoses and everything to run I just pulled hoses and wires out of
    here I don’t like it it’s just a sharp edge I could grind that down but I’d
    rather just put something over it so we just cut this plastic tubing cheap
    plastic tubing long ways and then made slits perpendicular so that maybe I can
    fit it over that saddle and then take the heat gun and melt it in make it fit
    we’ll see how well this works another experiment your own brick house
    I mean it’s been this way for since 1976 nothing has ever apparently chafed
    through no hoses or wires but I just don’t like the way it looks so we’ll
    give it a try much better some boat owners in this
    yard including myself don’t see this as a dumpster but a trading bin where junk
    goes in but treasures come out hmm look at this today my lucky day that
    looks about 20 mils 3/4 of an inch thick foam sandwich very dense foam fiberglass
    on both sides this could be a new floor okay this is the old floor it’s three
    quarters of an inch 20 millimeters thick no that’s the wall this is another
    little piece of some flooring you know it’s a little short here but I think I
    can live with that and just make it up with fiberglass cuz it’ll all get
    fiberglass over anyway yeah this can be sanded down make it look good
    clean up all this putty somebody’s been mixing on here and that’ll be a nice
    subfloor in preparation for installing the first piece of flooring I first had
    to clean up the whole area with detergent and acetone get all the greasy
    oil stuff off of here and then sand the area with 36 grit paper I’ve got my
    thickened epoxy thickened with camel sill we’ve got our flooring right here
    it’s all been fitted ready to go now to lather in all of that thickened epoxy
    and set the floor board in place oh jeez oh the camera didn’t turn on or I didn’t
    turn it on but I had all of this all of this thickened epoxy and I had the floor panel off out of the
    way I took the thickened epoxy and just laid
    down a big bead around this upper edge where I knew it was going to meet and
    along the frame on the tops of the frames and along the edges where it’s
    going to meet the rest of the flooring and then I very carefully set it all
    back in place and dropped it and then screwed it down oh darn I can’t believe
    we missed it on the film but anyway what I’m gonna do now is go back and mix up
    some more thickened epoxy and just build this up along the edges here fill in the
    gaps and then we’ll get ready for laying some cloth this is a sample of the cord
    fiberglass panels came out at the trading bin got recycled
    is now in the floor on this boat so it’s very strong very dense cell foam in the
    middle and fiberglass very thick fiberglass on each side although some of
    the other panels that I used were plywood in the middle and maybe just
    fiberglass on one side but if it was plywood
    it was marine grade what you could call a marine grade plywood very nice thin
    flies and many of them wood and no nuts and of course exterior smooth so there
    was no delamination of the plywood a lot of good stuff that comes out of that
    training good I’ll give you a close-up of this these court panels are made
    right here in the hall out facility on a thick table of glass and a vacuum
    bagging process they can be made with any kind of a core to any thickness that
    the customer wants and with any kind of finish on either side including a teak
    veneer that the customer can varnish and maintain all that he wants so the next
    day after all the glue is dry I washed it with a little soapy water with the
    dishwashing detergent and then gave it a very good rinsing with fresh water to
    remove the amine blush amine is in the hardener and that creates a oily or waxy
    feeling surface on cured epoxy and actually acts as a release agent
    so that has to be washed away before anything else is done including sanding
    so after washing everything I gave it a great sandy and then it was ready for
    the layers of fiberglass I think this is gonna come out nice and smooth anyway
    but I’m going to put the peel ply on it and the peel ply will make it so it’ll
    be nice and smooth in case I do want to put it any more layers over this so when
    you pull this off the mean blood comes with it there’s a fine texture equal to
    the weave of the fabric that’s left behind an imprint in the fiberglass so
    it’s a nice tooth for the next layer of cloth and resin to adhere to after a bit
    of a disaster with some generic epoxy resin which I showed in the last video I
    asked all the yard contractors here what they use and where did they get it from
    and they get all of their materials from a company called a MT which has a home
    office in distribution center in Cape Town as well as distribution centers in
    Durban and Johannesburg so now I get all of my epoxy resin and
    supplies from them delivered directly to the boat they supply great GU RIT resin
    and I’m using Verret SP 106 which they assured me is the equal to west system
    105 and we have a roll of peel ply and assorted different types of cloth I’ll
    be using a lot of biaxial cloth on this job and this is 25 kilos of the SP 106 resin
    that I’ll be using this newly installed subfloor is not wide enough for the
    batteries to sit side by side because of the curvature of the hull one row of
    batteries would be severely tilted so we have to install spacers to raise the
    next floor up high enough so the but the batteries can be accommodated I just got
    so lucky today at the dumpster at the trading bin and these these strips of
    marine plywood were just the right thickness 3/4 of an inch just the right
    height and I just had to cut them to length it looks like somebody was
    working on a project and then scrapped it and it saved me hours of work so we
    buttered these up very heavily with thickened epoxy and we’ll set these in
    place we’ll have two rows one along the outside edge following the curvature of
    the hull and one on the inside and that’ll prepare the bed then for the
    next floor to rest on so these batteries will clamp the glue and everything in
    place until tomorrow morning and then we can set the next subfloor in place so
    everything had been pre fitted in here now it’s time to lay down a heavy bead
    of thickened epoxy on those spacers and on the outside edge of this next floor
    panel this is a big step towards completing this project although there’s
    still a long ways to go you can see off to the right side an l-shape piece of
    white panel on the wall that was cut out bad area and the panel placed in there
    glued in and very securely fiberglassed along all the seams these screws are
    just holding the panel in place temporarily so everything sets up so I
    can continue working on the space that is on the left side over near my hand
    there’s another area of the wall that needs to be filled in so now the second floor is all
    fiberglass tin to the hull on the outer section of the hull the wall on the
    right side where you see the L shape and the left wall it’s all secured so we can
    pull the peel ply off and get ready to install the back wall of the battery box
    now this sheet of plywood has already been fiberglass on both sides and to
    hold it in place temporarily I installed a cleat off to the forward end of the
    wall and also on the aft end of the wall and clamped it in place at that point
    and set a battery up against the wall to help hold it securely in place while I
    put in a tab of fiberglass along the bottom edge on the outside of the wall
    and in the hull and then on the inside edge of the wall to the new floor and
    once all that was set up I could pull the battery that was help holding
    everything in place get the plastic release off of there and now I can pull
    the peel ply and off to the left and right and fill in that little gap for my
    amateur fiberglassing ways this is the easiest way for me to make a fill it put
    down some blue tape first as an outline and cram the thick and epoxy into place
    and once the epoxy is set up then not hardened but just somewhat set up then I
    can pull the tape off and that’ll be a nice filler so that the fiberglass when
    I put on two layers here you’ll just fold around won’t have any air bubbles
    behind it well the time crunch is on today’s
    Friday Rebecca is coming back on Monday and I don’t know if I can get this job
    finished I mean I look at how little I’ve gotten done actually it’s a lot but
    it doesn’t look like it it’s been taking me about a day a full day to manufacture
    a piece cut it fiberglass it and install it and there’s been a lot of pieces to
    go back in here if I had to pay somebody to do this work I would be very
    disappointed and a little has gotten done in such a long time and what the
    cost would have been but I’ve been working from morning until late at night
    and this is what I have to show for it but today I have the panel outside I
    laid it up last night I cut it and then fiberglass it on both sides it’s outside
    the peel ply just has to come off of it and that’s what I’ll be installing today
    the end panel for the battery box and hopefully today I’ll get the panel
    that’s being manufactured to go here it’s white on the outside and just
    fiberglass on the inside it’s a foam core and that’ll certainly be an all-day
    project to install that because I’ll have to make a template to make sure it
    fits exactly right there’s no second chance if I cut it too short then I have
    to put fillers and all kinds of things on the end which I don’t want to do and
    hopefully we’ll get something completed in here before Rebecca gets back so we
    can get a lot of this junk out of the main saloon and stored back in this
    compartment using some spray in contact cement to secure it now is the time to
    install closed cell foam padding in the storage compartment spin hole is on the back panel of the
    battery box there will be another vent hole on the front side on the finished
    panel after that one is installed okay good so I have all the structure pretty
    well set I have a cleat here so the panel can push up the new panel can push
    up against that one we have this for the new panel to push up I just put another
    cleat in down here and we have most of the bird’s nest of wires out of the way
    and I’ll deal with straightening up the rest of that later I’ll probably just
    hire somebody locally here to come in and and set it up most properly there’s
    just too much work for myself and ship to be doing so that would be a nice easy
    job for an electrician to take care of um let’s say I need to take some
    measurements here to make the cutout in the template for these wires need to cut
    out from there to there and then I can bring the template in and see how it
    fits here is a cool tool for driving screws it’s an extension for the screw
    bit but it’s a lot more than that it’s actually a holder for the screw that
    collar slides forward and you put your screw in with the just protruding a
    little bit then as you start the screw into the wood this collar pulls back and
    leave the screw in place makes it very nice for getting into these very hard to
    reach places like down in here perfect are you Lily
    how you doing kitty come in to help it took about eight trips in and out of
    here with the six millimeter 1/4 inch thick plywood template to shave it sand
    it and shape it exactly right to fit then I took that template traced it out
    on to this fish panel and cut it it’s a nice tight fit although I did have to
    cut out the floor just a little bit more to accommodate the thickness of the
    panel and then we had a very good fit here it is ten o’clock I’ve been at it
    all day since 8 o’clock this morning very dark outside now but I think I
    might have it I pick up Rebecca tomorrow afternoon but I just finished up tabbing the new panel in place so I have all the
    fiberglass down here a couple ears on the sides on the bottom back over in
    this corner so it’s pretty well tabbed in it’s all glued in with the fill it
    along the very top edge here and of course it’s all faced in with glue along
    here and everywhere that I can possibly face it in couple screws helping to hold
    things in we’ll leave those clamps in place until probably noon time tomorrow
    and actually I can start tomorrow putting things back in this storage
    space back here and get some of that stuff out of the main saloon so it isn’t
    completely finished there’s still some touch-ups but it’s good enough for now
    so we have the exhaust fan right here with the on/off switch the covers for the batteries are made of
    mdo plywood medium density overlay it’s a
    very high grade plywood there’s no knots or voids in the plies
    it’s made with exterior glue it’s faced with a paper product that’s impregnated
    with epoxy resin so you can get a good one side or good both sides sign
    painters use this for exterior signs or you can also use it through cabinets
    because it paints so well and I went ahead and put another layer of epoxy on
    both sides of these covers just to ensure that the battery acid won’t
    bother them and this is just a piece of plywood with fiberglass on one side the
    vent hole in the back the vent with the fan in the front we’re pretty good shape
    here the one thing I need to do is secure them somehow so if we do get
    healed way over they won’t come falling out of this cabinet I’m thinking about
    having some straps fibreglass to the inside of this finished wall and then I
    can bolt them on to the back wall but this is where I could need some help if
    you have any good ideas really how to secure these batteries in place please
    let me know down in the comments and the rest of the boat in the main
    saloon or our living room is what we call it is pretty well cleared up people
    can actually sit on the starboard bunk now we have room under the table for
    more storage of things that Rebecca is bringing home so the boat is livable
    again finally or two people and one cat so let’s go to the airport and find
    Rebecca I’ll never know how Rebecca was able to
    handle these for way over heavy bags plus two overstuffed carry-on bags all
    the way from USA to Africa but what a lot of treasures she brought back to the
    boat far better than anything I could ever pull out of my trading then over
    here in the parking lot so thanks a lot for watching I hope this video is
    worthwhile for you if it was please give it a thumbs up and if you haven’t
    already a subscribe and there is also a link to the tip jar if you don’t mind
    helping out in that direction and we’ll see you next time thank you
    all

    How to Sail a Sailboat : How to Secure a Boat Sail After Docking
    Articles, Blog

    How to Sail a Sailboat : How to Secure a Boat Sail After Docking

    November 12, 2019


    Ok, I’m taking and releasing the halyard from
    the main and I’m going to run it to the back of the boat. Back to the boat. I’ll switch
    this to you. I’ll hand you this zipper on the sail cover. So I’ll hand the halyard to
    Kelly.
    And we just clip it on to the very end. And the reason for doing this is to hold the halyard
    away from the mast so that in winds, you don’t get that slapping of the halyard line onto
    the mast. And we have people who live aboard their boats in this marina and it’s pretty
    irritating to hear that slapping of the line. So all the lines get pulled away from the
    mast, as a courtesy.

    How to Sail a Sailboat : Safety Gear to Have on Board a Sailboat
    Articles, Blog

    How to Sail a Sailboat : Safety Gear to Have on Board a Sailboat

    November 12, 2019


    At Tradewinds we have what we call SAFE TO
    GO. It’s an acronym we use for the students to make sure they have everything that needs
    to be done on the boat ready before we leave the dock. We are going to start with S. S
    is safety gear. One of the things you need to always have on board is a throwable it’s
    a type four throwable. The Coast Guard gives different types to different emergency and
    safety equipment. This is so if anybody ever goes overboard the first thing you do is throw
    them something. You need to have this within reach of the helmsman so they can toss it.
    It’s not only for the person who goes overboard, but also to mark where that person actually
    went in the water. It’s a lot easier to see the type four than it is to see a head bobbing
    in the water. Part of S in safety gear is a life jacket. Everybody on board needs to
    have a life jacket by Coast Guard regulations. Now, the Coast Guard doesn’t require you to
    wear them, but it’s a very, very good idea. This is a type; Ok we’ll have to cut that
    one out. What is it five? It’s actually a type five unless it’s inflated then it’s a
    type one. This is a type five life jacket. It’s very easy to wear and comfortable. Everybody
    on board can wear them. It just clips on and you’re ready to go. The other things you need
    to have are a fire extinguisher. Depending on the size of your boat there are different
    numbers that you have to carry, but you need to make sure you have those on board by Coast
    Guard regulations. You have to have a way of making sound in case you have to signal
    another boat. This is a very simple one. It uses a diaphragm and a piece of plastic and
    makes noise. It makes a lot of noise for a little thing. You also are required to have
    flares, three flares. You also need to make sure that they are in date. The date printed
    on the side of the flare is when they expire. You need to make sure that those are good.
    Although it’s not required; sorry about that. The other requirement is a visual signaling
    device. What we have on this boat is a flag. This is required. Then even though it’s not
    required it’s always a good practice to have a first aid kit on your boat and we have that
    in our box also. The other part of safety in our SAFE TO GO; the S is stow. There is
    a lot of movement on a boat when you get out on the water so you go through the entire
    boat and make sure everything is put away, locked down, all the doors and cabinet drawers
    are locked and that everybody’s gear is away in case the boat heels from side to side or
    up and down nothing will get thrown around the cabin.

    3 Sailing Tips to Save your Sailboat and Yourself!!  –  Patrick Childress Sailing  #26
    Articles, Blog

    3 Sailing Tips to Save your Sailboat and Yourself!! – Patrick Childress Sailing #26

    November 11, 2019


    today on Brick House How the U V rays of the Sun affect your eyes, sometimes requiring surgery and how some
    unexpectedly inexpensive sunglasses can be better protection than the designer
    brand, and then shock absorbers for the main and jib sail when the wind dies but
    the waves are still up take that terrible snap out of those
    sails, how to fish out and patch a broken jib leechline
    a day on shore with the natives and some local yachting Madagascar style keep the
    bailer close by. Hello my name is Patrick Childress on the sailboat Brick House. I
    grew up in the southwest section of Miami and in the summer’s out of high
    school in the late 1960s if my friends and I weren’t waterskiing on the nearby
    lake then we were out scuba diving on the nearby reefs. In those days no one
    paid any attention to what the UV rays of the Sun were doing to one’s skin or
    their eyes. In 1979 I left Miami on a 27 foot sailboat to sail solo around the
    world. After completing that trip the worst
    part of that whole voyage was having to have both of my eyes operated on for
    pterygium. Pterygium effects anybody who’s outdoors a lot; construction
    workers, farmers, sailors, anyone who is exposed to constant eye irritation like
    dust, wind and especially the UV rays of the Sun. Pterygium starts out as a
    ‘pinguecula’. Take a look at this pinguecula. A pinguecula starts on the inside
    corner of the eye nearest the nose and it generally has a yellowish cast to it
    and it’s complete with blood vessels as it grows across the white of the eye and
    encroaches on the cornea, the clear lens of the eye, that is then called pterygium
    and is spelled with a PT. It can actually pull and deform the eye like a muscle
    and cause an astigmatism and certainly at that point it needs to be operated on to
    be removed. The sunglasses that are just open to the side they’re a benefit but
    they allow far too many rays of the Sun and wind in to damage the eye. A hat
    certainly helps but really the best thing is to use wraparound sunglasses as
    long as you don’t need prescription glasses – you can’t get wraparound
    sunglasses in a prescription as of yet. Some of the best glasses are
    actually the least expensive. These are safety glasses that you can buy at any
    hardware store for five or six dollars. The most important thing is to look for
    the ANSI – the American National Standards Institute designation on the
    Temple of the eyeglasses this will show that the safety glasses have been tested
    for impact resistance in UV protection along with other measures, These glasses
    are made of polycarbonate polycarbonate which is a natural inhibitor of UV rays of the Sun. Even if the glasses are clear like these safety glasses they’re 100% well
    did they ever say one percent 99.99% UV resistant. When the wind has died but the
    waves are still up what to do to take that terrible snapping slamming out of
    the main and the jib when you still have to sail? The best remedy that I have
    found is to use a snubber just like this anchor snubber that normally attaches to
    the chain. It can be looped around the boom of a mainsail and hooked back on to
    itself or a separate line can be tied around the boom and then the snubber
    attached to it or if the line is long enough on the outboard end of the
    snubber it can just be tied around the boom with two wraps and then tied with
    the bowline back on to itself and if you’re hanging out in Southeast Asia
    you’ll always see these old motorcycle inner tubes laying along the roadway.
    They may not be good enough to hold air but they’re great for shock absorbers
    whether at a docks or for taking that shock loading out of a sail while you’re
    still out at sea. So when we set up the shock absorber on this mainsail there’s
    a bail already on the boom its easy to attach to and it’s in a set up so when
    the shock absorber reaches its full extension then the mainsheet will take
    over the load. This certainly eases the pressure on the
    gooseneck and the sails. This shock absorber is set up on a Swan 53 and it’s
    so easy to set up the shock absorber on a Swan because there’s so many winches
    and cleats and all kinds of options to attach the bitter end to. Of course
    there’s a preventer tied to the other side of the boom. In this situation the
    shock absorber is set up as a jib sheet and once it gets to its full extension
    then the jib sheet takes over its loading in this light air it’s just nice
    to have a running pole, a lightweight running pole, to help hold out the jib so
    it doesn’t have such a throw for its movement. The outboard end of the pole is
    attached to a sacrificial loop of line that’s tied through the clew of the sail
    it also acts like a great hinge point and these light winds for my own use I
    just don’t see any sense in going through all the trouble to set up fore and aft guys and topping lifts. It’s just as easy to man handle these running poles and
    especially these smaller lighter what I would call whisker poles. In this
    situation the jib sheet is doing what it’s supposed to do but shock absorber
    is easing the vertical slamming on the sail and here you can see a close-up of
    the sacrificial loop of line to which the upward end of the running pole is
    attached to, so shock absorbers are a big help to save the sails, save the
    gooseneck, save the rigging, and also to ease all that terrible sounding noise. On
    the jib of Brick House and this is the clew of the jib and this is where the
    leechline used to be. iIt chafed through on this little cleat and we have no more
    adjustment, so if my problem is how to get the leechline
    out so I can tie a new piece to it and get us back in business again. So I cut
    just a tiny hole with a razor blade knife right through here being very
    careful not to cut the remainder of the leechline.Then I took this lighter
    and singed the threads so nothing would come unraveled. So now I’ll take my
    rigging knife and dig out that broken leech line and I’ll have about this much
    left to tie a new piece of line to, and get us back in business again. That was easy enough – sometimes you get lucky. On the staysail we had the
    same problem of a damaged leech line because of that cleat, but there, there was
    enough line exposed at the bottom of the pocket of the leech lines where I
    could grab it and pull it down and raise the sail up away from it and then clamp
    the leechline with vice grips the jaws of which were wrapped in tape so that I
    wouldn’t be biting through and breaking the leechline so that gave me enough
    exposed leech line to where I could tie it to a new extension and that was a
    much easier process getting us back in business. So I joined this Dyneema to the
    old leech line and I left a little extra here because there was a worn section in
    here I don’t want to risk tying to a bad area and having that break so I’ll shove
    this down it has a bit of stiffness to it and I can feel it coming down if I
    run into any snags and I can use a retrieving tool like this to shove up inside and grab the line and
    pull it down. But I think this is gonna work out okay. There it is, good
    I had a long pair of needlenose pliers I could have also stuck up in there to
    help pull it down. I’ll give myself plenty of line to come through… I don’t even
    like using this anymore because of that chafe factor. I’m gonna go around it and
    just use the eyes since we don’t really adjust the sail that much and I’ll give
    myself plenty of line. So I wrapped the new Dyneema extension through the eyes
    several times and then tied it off bypassing those terrible sharp jaws of the
    adjusting cleat. I don’t want to turn this into a destination YouTube channel
    but there’s just so many fun things that we get into I just feel like I need to
    show it to somebody… so I have a series of videos here that I’ve strung together
    and this shows our new friend Paul who showed us around his island and then
    took us for our sail in his dhow. This is the son of my sister …oh the son of your
    sister so your ‘nephew’. A cruiser had given Paul a solar panel and a 12 volt battery
    AND a single light bulb so he has enough power to also run some simple
    electronics. Very cool…look at the little kitten – a little snowball! How many kittens? Are there five? four? ONE? Meow Meow…Only one little baby hah? Better bring you back to your mommy before she misses you too much ha? This roof is made from palm..and the wood is for planking. Oh yeah…. This was the middle of the dry season so
    there wasn’t the waterfall that we had hoped for. But does the pig get smart yeah yeah yeah…and learn not to go…maybe he sees trap, and not to go yeah yeah yeah so maybe he see trap he see food but nah.. too dangerous…no
    no no no he like some food yeah because you you like some, you
    love some Rafia.( a flower seed) And how often do you catch pig? Maybe one or two weeks like this, they come in. Yes, On the first day, you make some seed and the pigs you come in to eat one day.
    ????///Oh ok… A Frenchman had been living on
    this island and went away for a couple of weeks at which time he died but while
    he was away a bad storm came along and washed his sailboat way up onto the sandy
    beach near the mangroves and it’s been sitting here now for several years. We had a fantastic fish lunch with rice
    and mango salad Singing… Thank you Paul for a fantastic day!

    How to Sail a Sailboat : Understanding Heading on a Sailing Chart
    Articles, Blog

    How to Sail a Sailboat : Understanding Heading on a Sailing Chart

    November 10, 2019


    The way that you figure out your heading on
    a chart is to use what we call a parallel ruler. So, let’s say I wanted to go from the
    Golden Gate Bridge to Angel Island–tip of Angel Island here. I’d lay my parallel ruler
    down against the two points, and I’d hold it and move it over until I’m on the compass
    rose. And then I’m heading in this direction, and then I go out to the outer edge of the
    compass rose and I can read my heading. Much easier to do on a table. Now, if I want distance,
    you always measure distance off the sides of the chart and not the top or the bottom.
    So, you would use your dividers, find the two points from here, and then you can over
    to the side and you can do the measurements and find out how many nautical miles it is.
    Another way of doing it is you can figure out what one nautical mile is over here, and
    then you put your point on your start point, and then you rotate your dividers around and
    count until you reach your destination. And then you have your nautical miles.

    How to Sail a Sailboat : How to Sail a Boat Upwind
    Articles, Blog

    How to Sail a Sailboat : How to Sail a Boat Upwind

    November 10, 2019


    The reason the sail boat goes through the
    water is it’s getting pulled through the water. Think of the wing of a airplane and why the
    airplane stays in the air. The leading edge of the airplane hits the wind and the wind
    splits, some of it goes underneath and some of it goes over the top. As the wind speeds
    up going over the hump on the top of the airplane wing it creates a low pressure. Underneath,
    where it’s going fast, it has a high pressure. The low pressure basically creates suction.
    So an airplane stays in the air by that low on top of the wing and it sucks it up in the
    air and that’s what keeps the airplane in the air. The sails have the same design. Each
    boat can sail a certain number of degrees dead to the wind. Some boats it’s thirty,
    some boats it’s forty-five degrees. You find that on your boat and that’s the optimum position
    of the sail where the wind comes across, splits it, creates a high pressure on the inside
    of the sail, the curved side and creates a low pressure on the outside curve of the sail
    and you’re actually that suction is pulling the boat forward. That’s why sail trim is
    so important. You want to maintain, if your boat sails at forty degrees to the wind, the
    closest it can sail, you always want to be keeping that sail at that, within that, at
    that forty degree angle. No matter where the boat is, you want to be keeping the sail at
    that forty. That’s why you do sail trim, like Steve’s doing all the time. You’re looking
    for the shape of the sail, you’re using your tell tales to try to maintain that optimum
    high and low as you’re moving forward, keep the boat moving forward. Once you get to a
    certain point and the wind comes behind you then it’s a whole different aerodynamics in
    effect. I call it the barn door effect. You just have the sails out and just pushing at
    that point.

    Articles

    Sailboat Rigging-How to Rig a Sailboat-DIY HeadStay Replacement on Roller Furler-Patrick Childress21

    November 9, 2019


    hello I’m Patrick Childress today it’s
    replace the head stay inside of the profile roller furling. but can you hire
    a boat worker that says that they have 20 years experience and blindly allow
    him to do the work on your boat and expect everything to come out just right
    the second half of this video when we start to put this project back together
    you’ll see what certainly could have gone wrong if I as a boat owner wasn’t
    here to keep an eye on the project with this project is about replacing the head
    stay inside of this Pro furl roller furling that head stay doesn’t show any
    signs of deterioration but it’s ten years old
    it’s just a time expiration stamp item at a certain point in life
    you just take it out and replace it. Heading off to the east coast of Africa
    where it can be very windy and stormy we don’t want any problems no breakage is
    welcome out in the middle of a storm another thing is if you look up here on
    the sail you’ll see the horizontal dark spots at each of the extrusion joins.
    that is because I made a terrible mistake and did not keep proper tension
    on my back stay that allowed these foils to work against themselves and
    deteriorate and loosen up so the first part of this project to correct this
    problem. fix the replace the head stay and rebuild these foils. I have some new
    foils I want to put in and with some new joins. the Idea is to loosen up the turnbuckle
    on the back stay and then we’ll bring the spinnaker halyard and topping lift
    halyard forward and tighten it down to the windlass and that will be our
    temporary head stay the next step of the project will be to
    take out this titanium bolt and this titanium bolt inside of this aluminum
    housing which goes through to the stainless steel plates on the inside
    that is the hard part we’ll get to that right now. Somehow I lost the original video on how
    I disassembled this housing and got these screws out of the aluminum housing
    which go through to the stainless steel plates so I reset everything up here
    just finger tight to run through the process again originally I was able to
    move these plates by tapping. don’t use my bad example and tap directly on the
    metal plate you should use a piece of wood to tap them over and back there’s
    only so much distance that they will move because of a restriction inside of
    the housing but if you can get them moving a little bit that helps to free
    the nut on the backside of this plate from the titanium screw. it makes a big
    difference on disassembly so with this one on the far side I was able to then
    take a chisel and tap around the outside edge because just putting a wrench
    inside was not moving it and I didn’t want to strip out the hex head inside of
    the screw. but tapping it I was able to finally get it to move about a 64th of
    an inch in relation to the aluminum drum once I got that moving then I was able
    to put the hex head wrench in and start turning back and forth a little bit and
    got it so it turned out that one was easy to disassemble the one on this side
    for some reason was far more difficult so even though I had this plate moving
    back and forth it was still well frozen in place and eventually I did strip out
    the hex head fitting inside of the bolt so now I was stuck, so I took a dremel
    and I was able to cut a little slot in the head of the bolt and then insert a
    large screwdriver and even with that putting a wrench on the screwdriver I
    could not get this nut to turn but since I had the slot now I was able to take
    the chisel again and start tapping actually more than just tapping I was
    beating on it on two different sides and I finally got that to move about a 64th
    of an inch just barely but I could see that it did move that made a big
    but even with that movement I couldn’t turn it with the screwdriver so the only
    thing left to do was to drill a hole to use an ‘easy out’ and since this is a
    titanium bolt you have to use cobalt drill bits. the regular high-speed bits
    will do it but you’re gonna burn through a lot of them so I drilled a small hole
    first and worked my way up in size until eventually I had a very large hole
    inside the bolt to put an easy-out but I also drilled the head much larger
    and that would tend to help free up the bolt from the aluminum housing put the
    easy-out in tap it down and start to turn but it was so tight it just would
    not budge so I took a cheater bar and started turning and that finally
    loosened it up but the last thing you ever want to do is risk breaking an
    easy-out inside of a bolt now you have ruined your whole week not just your day
    there are ways of getting easy outs out but that takes a special tool that has a
    little prongs that go down inside of these flutes and good luck trying to
    find that special tool at the local hardware store but eventually I was able
    to get this loosened up and turn it out by hand and get that nut out one thing
    with using these Crescent wrenches think of them as a pipe wrench so you don’t
    want to if you’re turning counterclockwise you don’t want to set
    the wrench this way they’ll tend to grab better if you set it this way my old
    boss at the Henderson mine up in Colorado in the mountains of Colorado
    showed that to me and that’s why I’ve been doing it ever since we finally got this out I can clean the
    corrosion up and everything is ready to go back together so always keep a spare
    bolts on hand these bolts are no problem they just hold the cage in place and I
    take those out once a year and see how easy it is to turn and clean them up
    and put them back in using lanacote or TefGel which is an anti seize
    product but from now on one once a year I’m going to be taking these things
    apart and making sure that they don’t ever get frozen up again and I’ll be
    treating these bolts and the surfaces with Lanacotee or TefGel. Now the
    one thing I don’t trust on this whole lifts me up the mast system is just this
    one turning block but the shackle right here into this aluminum collar so I have
    another shackle and some line tied to it just in case something gives away here
    we’ll have a backup so the fall won’t be but a couple inches. okay ready? untie it and you can start
    walking today is the big day we get to put the
    head stay back up which goes inside of the profurl roller furling and this
    morning in a few minutes well have BEEP showing up we’re at the very French
    island of Réunion out in the middle of the Indian Ocean
    and to help things help BEEP, Im gonna be his assistant today and we have all the
    tools set up here a lot of tools another camera
    I want to photograph this whole process I have the new headstay all laid out
    it’s already cut to length I’ve done just as much work as possible to make
    this a very fast process we have a carpet here and another little carpet
    here that we can work on top of so all of our little set screws and things
    don’t disappear in the cracks of the dock and while I wait for how BEEP to show up
    he should be here any minute I’m going to lay out some of these foils and get
    everything just as setup as possible I’ve got my inverter so I can change
    this to 240 volt to 110 for my electric drill in case we need that and I have
    the bosun’s chair set up here ready to go I have a line a tail that I can tie
    to some tools I think what will if I drop anything if I need other supplies
    when I’m up at the top of the mast and I go to raise the new headstay with the
    foil I’ll put it on a spinnaker halyard and just hoist it up that way and make
    it a lot easier I don’t have to pull it up by hand and we’ve got a helper here
    our good friend Keith on the boat Atalanta we met him back in the
    Caribbean long ago ten ten years ago or 11 yeah Roatan Honduras
    all right we’re together again halfway around the world. Have been for several
    months now well we had a bit of a snag when the
    rigger and his helper showed up this morning they did not want their picture
    taken working on this dock So we snuck him in this
    morning at 9am this morning, and we got started to replace the headstay, and it took him, his helper and
    myself three and a half hours so that is what ten and a half hours man-hours to
    do this whole job so went quick and easy there’s always a little snag along the
    way and I’m forever grateful for their help but let me show you a couple of things
    that came up during the process which you know you really need to know what’s
    happening on your own sailboat when you hire these people you just can’t turn it over
    to professionals and expect it to get done perfectly and these guys that work
    in marinas they don’t cross oceans all the time like today he told me yeah but
    he did this boat that’s down at the end of the dock 20 years ago and it’s still
    fine yeah the boat sits here at the dock it doesn’t ever go out of here unless
    it’s a pleasant day so it doesn’t get the heavy use like all of our ocean
    crossing boats do this one been thousands and thousands of miles our
    friends on Atalanta over here are sailing around the world so these are the hard
    used boats and they know what works and what doesn’t and I cannot tell sometimes
    a professional that’s 20 years experienced that I might have a little
    better way of doing things so let me show you a couple of things that came up
    today now when we had the back state to loose what happened what these foils
    were able to work again work against each other and twist and turn but when
    we’re putting this back together I had four brand new joins that go inside and
    that’s what I wanted to use first I had a couple other good ones used ones that
    we could use but I looked down this side a couple empty screw holes and I saw
    nothing in there and something was wrong so I had them take it apart and it
    turned out who are using a very old sloppy worn-out join where these holes
    are very elongated so these set screws go through but it’s still not going to
    really hold anything so I wasn’t really pleased with that I had them use another
    used one that has good holes in it that aren’t elongated and this little pin on
    the set screw goes through the extrusion and sets into that little hole to help
    hold everything together and keep it from moving around so we took care of
    that problem also of course when you do put all of these joins together you screw these down inside and even
    though this is a red bottle of Loctite this label part is green and so this is
    a green very tough Loctite like permanent once it goes in you don’t want
    to have to try to get it done a little bit of heat from like a propane torch
    will loosen it up though on some of these older joins I had put a third hole
    for a third set screw and that really helps to hold things together and of
    course you do have to drill another little hole inside here or this foot of
    the set screw to go into just like the other two here so anyway we got rid of
    these terrible old ones I threw one of the water just to make sure it wouldn’t
    be used again I saved this one just so I could show you on the video and we’re
    good to go we have good joins all the way up now the next disappointing thing
    these guys were gonna do was to put the new Norseman terminal together dry that
    is this cone goes inside these wires they screwed on terminal goes on the
    bottom and it all goes together they were not going to use any kind of
    sealant inside of the terminal so water sea water can get down inside the water
    evaporates the salt stays behind and everything prematurely deteriorates and
    breaks so I was able to jump into their work and grab my butyl sealant you can
    use butyl tape but butyl tape is very thick very difficult to work with in
    these tight areas you could heat it and possibly get by with that but but I take
    my butyl in a caulking gun it has to be american-made butyl this came from Ace
    Hardware don’t ever use Chinese or any kind or Southeast Asian made
    butyl it is not the same stuff, this is just thinner butyl that you find in the tape
    and much more pliable but it’s like Mickey Mouse it’s like like working with
    liquid cobwebs it gets all over your fingers all over everything so you have
    to wear or you should wear some nitrile
    gloves the blue gloves and that makes cleanup a lot easier cleanup is with a
    rag and mineral spirits so I took the butyl after they disassembled everything
    again I pumped it all full all the way around the wires all the way around the
    ball where the the wedge was and then reassembled everything again so that as
    it all came together butyl sealant was coming out of the top
    of the terminal and that’s what you need if you don’t have any coming off at the
    top you might as well not do it at all you need to make sure that when water
    runs down the wire it does not get down inside this stuff will last through the
    heat of summer the cold of winter it expands it contracts it always sticks it
    just doesn’t let go and I don’t know of anything better than using butyl rubber
    for this application now the other thing they surprised me with was they had put
    these screws this one and the one on the other side that goes through the
    aluminum housing and to the stainless steel backing plate or chain plate in
    dry and they were just gonna leave it that way I mean they know full well that
    these screws will become frozen in place because of electrolysis so I had to have
    them take it back out this screw and the one on the backside I got out my Lanacote
    Lanacote is lanolin. it’s an extract from sheep’s wool and
    it’s made in New Zealand and it’s very sticky the feels and looks like grease
    but it isnt grease it’s like an anti grease if you ever use it on your bow
    roller forget it your bow roller won’t turn and your chain will just skip right
    over that plastic roller so it’s a very good anti seize but so I had them take
    the screws out I coated all the insides and the threads of the screws with Lanacote, put it all back together and we’re good to go I can feel this now it’s a
    little sticky and that’s fine maybe in another year and a half
    two years I’ll take this out and make sure that it’s freed up and reapply the
    Lanacote, This headstay hardly wobbles unlike before so I’m gonna take you to
    the back and Rebecca’s going to show us how she determined the pressure that is
    on the backstay. we just finished setting up the headstay the rigger
    helped us do that he tensioned the backstay turnbuckle and he cited up the
    mast to make sure it’s straight and he told us to sail a thousand miles
    and then tighten up one or one and a half turns. Wow! That’s a lot! okay on the turnbuckle but we’re gonna
    check the tension with this tensionometer just to see the tension on it. How do
    you do that Rebecca? There is a guage here to determine if you have 1/4, 9/32, 5/16 or 3/8 which is 10mm or 3/8, so we use this scale right here… And that says 50, so really it’s at 52 which down here on this scale is tighter than its supposed to
    be. okay then on this scale down here what is it supposed to be yet it’s
    supposed to be anywhere in this range okay but we have three two so it’s
    actually tighter then Loos recommends it to be so we’ll see how we like it but
    I’m not sure we’ll make it any tighter maybe we’ll make it a little looser.
    So the rigger over tensioned the backstay by some, so what I’m gonna do is
    loosen up the turnbuckle by one full turn and we’ll check it again when we
    get to Madagascar that’ll give the head state plenty of time to stretch out and
    we’ll keep a close eye on it and make sure that we have the proper tension on
    it by using the Loos tension gauge. We have the new headstay, the Profurl is all
    back together again. Rebecca and I have been very impressed with this Profurl roller furling system. Despite my negligence and not having adequate
    backstay tension it kept on working it has gone through
    countless furling cycles in all kinds of weather pleasant and very extreme and so
    I think we’re good to go we’re going to be crossing from this island of réunion
    to the stormy coast of Madagascar so I hope this video is good for you if it
    was please give it a thumbs up down below and a SUBSCRIBE and we’ll see you
    soon thanks a lot for watching!

    Provisioning for Sailing an Ocean, [An Exact Sailboat Provisioning List] Patrick ChildressSailing#20
    Articles, Blog

    Provisioning for Sailing an Ocean, [An Exact Sailboat Provisioning List] Patrick ChildressSailing#20

    November 8, 2019


    A New Headstay – that’s the project I’ve
    been working on today and how to change the the headstay inside of a Profurl roller
    furler. So far the hardest part of this whole job is to remove this
    titanium bolt from the aluminum housing that also goes into this stainless steel
    plate and into this nut that’s welded on the backside that took hours but right
    now what I want to talk to you about is Provisioning for an Ocean Passage and
    what could be better than to have a exact list of provisions that you will
    need you can just go to the store you go down the list throw everything in the
    grocery cart and before you know it you’re back on the boat ready to set
    sail so let’s go down below where it’s a little quieter we have this big ship
    making a lot of noise behind us and we’ll talk provisioning oh one other
    thing if this video is good for you about provisioning at the end please
    give it a thumbs up and subscribe. Lets go on down below. Hello I’m Patrick
    Childress on Brick House. Rebecca’s out shopping right now so that gives me a
    chance to spread out here in the main saloon and do this provisioning video
    for you the most important part about this whole video is this three-page
    provisioning list which is extremely accurate how I got this list was the
    first time I ever did a boat delivery between New England and the Caribbean a
    crew went with me down to the grocery store and every item that we put in the
    grocery cart I wrote down on a list once we got to
    the Caribbean anything that was left over I scratched off the list
    after three more trips I developed this very accurate list which is good for six
    people for twelve days at sea or two people for 36 days at sea
    with very little left over at the end of this video I’ll tell you where to go
    online so you can download this provisioning list, but rather than going
    through the grocery store and just watching somebody throw a bunch of
    things at a grocery cart I’m going to turn the camera around to the galley
    where I have some food items set out and we’ll go through them item by item tell
    you what to get what not to get and some things that can
    cause your problems. Everything I’m going to say here comes from my own personal
    experiences and observations but you might like jalapeno peppers I don’t I
    might say that American beef is the best beef in the world and your experience
    would suggest that well maybe Australian and South African is better but if you
    have comments if you have disagreements or anything you want to add just write
    it in the comments down below that could be a big benefit for everybody so let’s
    get started. Now my experience is for provisioning are through the Caribbean,
    Central America, and out across the Pacific all the way to Africa I don’t
    know anything about provisioning in the Med. however I can tell you that once you
    leave America that’s a very good chance that you’ll never see cheaper prices for
    food anywhere else in the world even if you stock up in Key West which you think
    is expensive wait till you get to Panama you would think things are cheap in
    Panama because the local economy but all their canned goods and a lot of their
    other items are imported from the US in Panama. However Panama is far cheaper
    than anywhere else just about across the Pacific
    Tahiti forget it… you really want to stock up in Panama and work your way
    to an American associated island say like American Samoa where there again
    you can find a very good variety and much lesser prices than anywhere else in
    the Pacific. the other place to go for provisioning would be the island
    nation of Palau which is a famous scuba diving destination food is a little
    expensive there but you have a lot of variety and items that you won’t find
    anywhere else in the Pacific. New Zealand has a lot of food that’s expensive
    Australia’s outrageous so we really do try to stock up in the American
    associated islands or before we leave the US. The one thing that Americans do
    that hardly any other culture that I have seen does is refrigerate their eggs
    just like these eggs are sitting out in the ambient temperatures in Mauritius,
    you’ll find this same scenario across the Pacific. Their eggs will last about
    four to six weeks just sitting out in the tropics sometimes the eggs are left
    out in the Sun and you have to really be careful where you buy your eggs from
    occasionally they sell eggs in grocery stores in individual cartons like this
    plastic also in paper we try to stay away from the paper cartons because
    there might be cockroach eggs in there and that’s not a great thing to have a
    little baby cockroaches running around your boat. so we’ll save these plastic
    ones we’ll wash them out and reuse them two four six eight ten it’s not like a
    dozen in America they go metric in a lot of these other countries and we
    refrigerate we have enough room to refrigerate maybe three cartons of eggs
    and the rest of them just sit out and we’ll use the ones that sit out first so
    like I say they’ll last four to six weeks just sitting out easily if you
    want them to last longer you can take Vaseline and smear around each egg and
    then put it in a carton that’s what they used to do long before most yachts had
    refrigeration and they would last a couple of months that way you just need
    to keep the air from penetrating through the egg shell.
    Milk – once you leave America fresh milk is very difficult to find and would
    be incredibly expensive so you learn to like powdered milk sometimes you see in
    these other countries like in the Bahamas they’ll have reconstituted milk
    in the refrigerated section that’s just powdered milk that’s been mixed for you
    and chilled. You have to check different manufacturers of milk powder and some of
    them mix easier with water than others let’s see Dairy Products Basic cheese – it’s not been
    a big problem. butter that can be a little more difficult but what we do if
    we’re really out in the boonies say like out in french polynesia somewhere
    we’ll always have a backup can of butter and this says pure Creamery butter Mon-
    tequila con Sal butter with salt and it’s actually made in New Zealand. New
    Zealand is a big exporter of canned butter and in the Bahamas back in the
    70s and 80s it was everywhere it’s a little more difficult now to find in the
    Bahamas because they have such good refrigeration and power generators
    in those far out islands they aren’t so far out anymore. Breakfast cereal
    breakfast cereal is incredibly expensive in all of these other countries
    cornflakes Weetabix and all that stuff and we just stay away from that Rebecca
    still buys some Muselix from time to time and I would eat the whole box in
    two morning’s but she can make it last a lot longer so it isn’t that bad
    of an expense for us but I’ll buy oat meal and always get the instant oatmeal
    the only difference between instant oatmeal and regular oatmeal is the size
    of the flake the regular oatmeal is bigger the instant or quick fix oatmeal
    has just more finely cut and ground so it cooks faster however once you meet a
    lot of other cruisers out here they don’t bother cooking their oatmeal. They just put it in with their powdered milk in the morning mix in some raisins
    some grated coconut and whatever else they want to make their own muesli the
    thing with oatmeal is you don’t want to buy Chinese oatmeal don’t try to save
    money Chinese oatmeal is full of weevils and
    it may not look like it when you buy at the store but they will hatch out.
    American and Australian oatmeal are certainly the best. I don’t know this for
    a fact but I highly suspect that they have a heating process during their
    packaging process that heats the oatmeal and fluffs it with very hot air to kill
    any of the weevil eggs that are in the oatmeal it’s just a natural fact that
    weevil eggs are in oatmeal, rice, flour, just any of those grain products
    now this oatmeal ‘jungle oats’ – guess where that came from this is a new experiment
    this from South Africa and so we’ll see how long it takes for any weevils to
    grow in here hopefully it won’t ever happen but the thing you don’t want to
    buy is oatmeal in a box and a box of does grow weevils they’ll be out of here
    in no time crawling all over your boat it’s disgusting so in a bag at least
    like this that is clear you can see the weevils growing and they will still gnaw
    a hole out through the bag as they get thirsty and they will start looking for
    water whether it’s condensation on the top of the galley or even I found a
    bunch of weevils down in our sump pump in the main saloon so Oatmeal, stay
    with the Australian or American brands don’t buy Chinese it’s terrible stuff. The weevils will see eat more than what you do Raisins to go in your oatmeal in the
    morning you can buy raisins anywhere These were made in Australia and
    you can also get the American made raisins no problem just about anywhere
    in the world as long as we’re on the grains
    this is flaxseed meal this is what I also put in my cereal in the morning
    surprisingly you can find this Red Mill brand of grains in a lot of places
    normally in the larger cities that are more westernized like Penang Malaysia or
    a big city in Thailand that has a westernized grocery store so it’s not
    everywhere as you cross the Pacific but it can be found
    a lot of these things you don’t want to stock up too much especially like flour
    flour and rice. now rice take a look at these weevils in this rice and I had
    this bag of rice I saw that a couple weevils were growing in there so I sent
    this whole bag out in the Sun all day and I even turned it over it was very
    hot that day and I thought for sure that would have killed the weevils and the
    eggs that might be hatching out and it didn’t. So yeah we lost a whole bag
    of our rice to the weevils and the same thing will happen to flour so you don’t
    want to over stock on flour or rice. get what you need and those are two very
    easy to get commodities anywhere in the world there’s one other thing about
    weevils and that information that I have been able to gather is it it doesn’t
    harm anyone to eat weevil eggs or even the weevils themselves even if you
    do it wrong so it’s kind of a disgusting thought but so it’s nothing to be too
    concerned about so cook them up and once one source says just like a cow goes out
    and eats grass and now you have protein to eat they say it’s the same with the
    weevils no thanks the other thing is tapioca. tapioca I
    always thought came in a box from this store and there are always a little
    pearls like in this bag but actually tapioca is the root of the manioc plant
    which grows throughout the tropics and natives will use that tuber to make
    puddings and desserts it’s a thickener basically and it
    doesn’t have any flavor unless you put coconut or something else in it so
    this is the only packaged tapioca that I have seen outside of the United States and I
    got this and they very out-of-the-way island of Rodrigues and where this is
    made…this is made in Thailand! popcorn popcorn once you leave America
    it’s all generic stuff unless again you get to an American associated island
    where you can get the gourmet popping corn let’s see.
    sugar. Sugars cheap wherever you go no problems at all so you don’t have to
    stock up that much. Tea…tea is growing in so many places in Australia, Sri Lanka,
    Malaysia don’t ever buy stock in a tea company I think those tea companies
    those big big plantations they make more money off of giving tours and selling
    t-shirts to tourists than what they do off of tea it’s a tough business now
    coffee is a little different story here in Mauritius if you just go down and buy
    a cup of coffee at the local cafe it’ll cost about three US dollars for just a
    little shot glass size… incredibly expensive and it’s also the same in a
    lot of other countries so stock up on coffee and when the Nescafe seemed to be
    a popular one. Peanut butter – you can get pretty much anywhere the problem then
    becomes jellies and jelly or we eat preserves so you
    can still get the Smuckers and some of the other good American preserves just
    about in any major city as we travel around the world but if you can’t get
    what you’re looking for the French products are just equal or if not better
    than some of those American preserves so even with these other products if you
    can’t find the an Australian or American the French products are just as good
    very good alternative. Pancake syrup don’t leave home without the maple
    pancake syrup it is very difficult to find or extremely expensive to find
    anywhere else in the world Sodas, Pepsi products, Coke products it’s all
    cheap wherever you go no problem at all now weevils getting back to weevils
    there are there is some information that says if you put bay leaves in a
    container that will discourage weevils what that means I really don’t know how
    do you discourage weevils does that keep them from catching out or certainly
    they’re already in the products that you’re trying to protect but it’s worth
    a try so if you take your Jungle Oats and put them in a big container with a
    lid on it and you throw some bay leaves in there I guess that would be a good
    experiment and see if it preserves your breakfast for you or your rice or your
    flour of course cockroaches can be a big problem in some of these foreign
    countries we had them once and what it takes to get rid of them and actually
    ants as well it is boric acid this is an old label
    you can’t really see it but it’s a white powder on the inside then you mix that
    with sweetened condensed milk to make a thick paste and then once you do that
    you just take it take that paste and put it up behind areas where the cockroaches
    might crawl and it dries it stays there forever they come to eat the sweetness
    in that sweetened condensed milk they ingest the boric acid and it
    doesn’t take long to get rid of the whole infestation of ants
    or cockroaches. Boric Acid even though it says acid, it’s really benign. They use this for eye wash. canned products say like if you’re in New Zealand you’ll see
    a lot of canned Chinese imports and it’s disgusting stuff the only Chinese can
    items that we’ll buy now from our failed experiences is maybe some cling peaches
    or mandarin oranges I mean it’s the same sweet and kind of artificial colored
    stuff that you buy in the US I mean how bad can you get. but we eat it like
    desert. fresh produce you can get that pretty much anywhere say like an island
    you can do a lot of trading. trading items they can be anything .clothes – I had
    one man he just so desperately wanted some britches for his five-year-old son
    and unfortunately I felt so bad for him that we didn’t have anything that small
    so you can bring children’s clothes adults clothes swim masks, swim fins
    anything that money would buy. I mean natives in a lot of these in
    out-of-the-way places they need things they don’t necessarily need cash
    they need the things that the cash would buy especially solar lights the solar
    lights are a big deal now not just flashlights but something like this
    movie light that I’m using this plugs in to a solar panel outside and this is
    what a native would really want something that’s rechargeable rather
    than using batteries another very unique thing that the
    natives would like is a gig like this they’re cheap you can buy them in
    America at most bait tackle stores and they would use this for either spearing
    fish at night or even lobsters very hard to get in the outer islands. propane
    propane tanks what we have on this boat is two backyard barbecue sized propane
    tanks that you see everywhere in America those have gotten us by although they
    did it get a bit rusty once we got down to New Zealand they used the same size
    tanks with the same fittings so we’re able to trade it to our old rusty ones
    for some very good new ones fully filled in the cost I think about $35 total for
    each tank and since then I’ve been very careful any time we haul out I’ll sand
    those tanks and prime them and paint them and keep them up we haven’t had too
    much trouble filling them with propane only in Indonesia could it have been a
    problem and we even bought special adapters so we could decant from one
    larger tank to another to our own but we never really had to do that somehow we
    always got by and so we have the connections to decant from another
    propane tank but it hasn’t been an issue just yet. One backyard barbeque sized
    tank will last us three months so we have a good six months supply of propane
    on this boat. but with the propane we really don’t do
    much baking because that uses up propane very quickly I might make some banana
    bread once in a while and that’s about it we can be try not to bake too much
    it’s just a tremendous use of propane we do have this other barbecue that we use
    very rarely now it was kind of a unique thing when we first started out sailing
    but I’ll use it now and then if we’re cooking fish or some chicken or maybe
    some steaks and I really want to keep the odor outside of the boat of course
    it just has to be a nice calm afternoon or evening to do that cooking because
    the wind just blows out the flame so easily. oh I forgot to mention meat
    products nowhere else in the world is there better beef than what you get in
    the USA what other country can afford to feed their cattle corn and from what I
    understand 80% of the corn grown in the u.s. goes to feeding cattle. Australia
    would be the next best bet for quality of beef, but still it just falls short.
    pork you can get pretty much anywhere except in some of the Muslim countries
    like Indonesia. Malaysia you have to go to the Chinese section of town to get
    pork and it’s available you just have to look around a little bit. chicken it’s
    universal anywhere you can get chicken and it’s very inexpensive. water on the
    boat fortunately I was able to go sailing
    around the world back in the late 70s and early 80s long before reverse
    osmosis watermakers were invented so that is my thinking now I just don’t
    need a watermaker we do have an RO reverse osmosis water
    maker on the boat but in 11 years we have never needed it
    we don’t use it and I have tested the water in a number of places like right
    here in Mauritius they come out of the faucet the total dissolved solids with
    85 compared to over 200 parts per million for most RO watermakers
    there’s no microbes in the water here the water I get out of a lot of these
    faucets that docks at marinas is much better than what most yachts can make
    with their RO systems but each to their own there’s a lot of people out cruising
    around the world that don’t have water makers they catch rainwater you put a
    little bleach in it a little sodium hypochlorite and you’re good to go so
    that saves us a lot of maintenance a lot of amperage by not having a water maker.
    well that’s about all that I can think of right now now have to get this
    provisioning list go to where is brick house dot com and if it isn’t right there
    when you open that page search for ‘provisioning list’ and that will come up.
    Well I hope this video has been helpful for you and if it was please give it a
    thumbs up at the end of this video and please SUBSCRIBE and if you have any
    comments of items I should have been talking about please leave that
    information down below ok thanks a lot we’ll see you soon!

    How to Sail a Sailboat : How to Tie a Bowline for Sailing
    Articles, Blog

    How to Sail a Sailboat : How to Tie a Bowline for Sailing

    November 8, 2019


    Next knot we’re going to tie is a bowline.
    The bowline is the most useful knot on a boat. Its used to create a loop. Create a loop.
    And now we’re going to do the story. The story involves a rabbit which is the end of your
    line and a tree which is the long end. So take the rabbit, it goes through the hole
    around the tree, back through the hole, then grab the two lines that are the rabbit and
    grab the tree end and pull and you have a bowline. Long end on your palm. Create a loop.
    We’re now using the story of the rabbit and the tree. The end of the line is the rabbit.
    The long end’s the tree. The rabbit goes through the hole, around the tree, back through the
    hole, grab the two lines that were the part of the rabbit, grab the tree and pull and
    you have a bowline.

    How to Fix a Sailboat Deck, BEFORE the Windlass RIPS OUT!!! (Patrick Childress Sailing #48)
    Articles, Blog

    How to Fix a Sailboat Deck, BEFORE the Windlass RIPS OUT!!! (Patrick Childress Sailing #48)

    November 7, 2019


    there was a little bit of weakness in
    the foredeck underneath the windlass so now is the time to take the windlass out
    open up the foredeck and get rid of water saturated balsa and make it strong
    like it should be hello we are Patrick that Rebecca
    Childress on the 40 foot valiant and Brick House
    we are hauled out on the East Coast in South Africa in Richards Bay and we are
    going through the entire boat trying to find problems and correct them before we
    head out across the Atlantic to Uruguay what’s this? this is the money that we
    save because Patrick has the tools and the know-how to fix this boat without
    his knowledge all this will just be down the drain of
    course it’s only about ten bucks anyway down in the description down below
    there’s five or six different ways to support our channel you’re not
    supporting our lifestyle you’re just supporting the cameras and all the time
    and effort that Patrick has to put into doing this he works 12 hours a day on
    this boat and then he comes in until he can’t even keep his eyes open anymore at
    night and edits the videos hope you appreciate it I’m hope you like them if
    you do give them a thumbs up subscribe share the link to your local yacht club
    do what you can to share the word that really helps us out
    thanks a lot for watching because of the heavy wide backing plates underneath the
    windlass there never was that much flexing of the foredeck when we’re
    picking up our ground tackle unless we also were picking up someone else’s
    abandoned anchor or an old mooring but now is the time to dig into this whole
    area and make sure that everything is going to be structurally sound so we
    don’t have any problems in the future but first I had to squeeze upside down
    through the little access hole into the chain Locker and undo the bolts to the
    windlass and the deckplates while our friend Bert who we met through our
    youtube videos helped out up on top once everything was out of the way that
    structural surgery began I’m using a diamond-tipped blade but just a regular
    masonry cutting blade would work as well this is all solid no no I guess not and
    it’s all wet so now we have to scrape all that old balsa out of here clean up
    the area and you can see some hunks of fiberglass that are in here and if I can
    knock those out those are old repairs we’ll get those out of the way and just
    redo them and with this tool that’s twisted 90 degrees I reach way in
    underneath the decking and trying to grab as much of that old balsa out of
    there and dig it out as well as possible learn how to during this and cartina
    Columbia when we were hauled out there we had the guys dig into a lot of the
    side decking to remove the saturated balsa especially around the chain plate
    areas so I wanted that area made as strong as possible so for two days we
    had the hairdryer set on low blowing warm air into these areas deep into the
    cavity where I couldn’t reach with a 90 degree probe I’ll come back yeah it’s pretty just
    free I’ll come back with a wire brush why your brush all of this and clean it
    up and wipe it down with some acetone and vacuum it really well and I’m going
    to go over to this a dumpster for some pieces of fiberglass that I can use as
    filler to help build this up instead of using all of my expensive valuable resin
    and fiberglass cloth I’ll have already made chunks of
    fiberglass to help fill this up and make it strong and I’ll be able to shove them
    up way back up under here – to help fill up the gaps along with those chunks of
    fiberglass I’ll also use that 90 degree vent tool to shove fiberglass in resin
    way up under here to help filled up the voids also here we go solid fiberglass panel that’s
    just what I needed for filler perfect this will be more than enough and I’ll
    sand the shiny side get that roughened up yes this is just what we needed these pieces of fiberglass panel along
    with larger pieces out in the field will be set in place amongst fiberglass cloth
    and residue this fiberglass panel wrapped in plastic will be screwed up
    from the bottom to help seal the holes for the chain and the other wiring holes
    in bolt holes to make sure that resident cloths don’t go dripping through but
    I’ll also plug up these holes with some butyl tape that I have I could have used
    clay modeling clay it probably would have been just as easier and actually
    cheaper but I need something to maintain these holes in their placement so I can
    drill back in the exact same spot when we’re ready to install the windlass so
    now it’s time to cut off the protruding screws holding up the panel just below
    us and then start wetting things out and get it ready for the fiberglass cloth
    and the build up on the left there you see a big hunk that was solid fiberglass
    that was a previous repair that was done in Columbia and I’ll talk about that a
    little more in a few minutes and I’ll have to grind that down from above a
    little later on as we build up these plies without this 90-degree probe it would
    have been very difficult to get the wetted out fiberglass cloth and even
    these scree cut panels way up in here where they were needed to fill up the
    gap so one layer two layers three layers we
    keep building it up but I had to stop at four layers and let things cool down too
    many layers at one time and you get a heat buildup and you could actually get
    things smoking if you’re not careful so I took a lunch break and come back and
    find more layers and the next morning I’ll come back and check my work okay
    this is the morning after everything is well set up I’m going to clean
    everything up here vacuum and then wash this area down with the little soapy
    water and some fresh water but right now I can feel on here it’s like a greasy
    waxy feel that’s the amine blush that comes out of epoxy and then I’ll get out
    the big grinder and grind this out I’ll grind this down a bit and grind it way
    out to the sides all the way around and put the Belleville in there for getting
    ready to do the layup and the final layups and patches you just can’t have a
    hard spot here we need to bevel this back and get the
    adhesion on to the rest of the surrounding fiberglass I know what
    you’re thinking why didn’t I grind that bevel out into
    the white area first and then I could just run all of those plies of laminate
    right up on to the bevel and be done with it
    well sometimes I just worked harder rather than smarter and that would have
    been a great idea but I discharged it into the project and this didn’t plan
    ahead all that much but having a double-double like this it’s gonna be
    good and strong and I just won’t have any problems with it see here in the
    pieces but if I had to do it again I would do the outward devil first and run
    the flies up onto it while digging while sanding everything here I found a void
    not a void but another pocket of balsa and so I dug all that out it’s all
    cleaned out and had the hairdryer sitting on here for the past hour and a
    half so it’s all dried up nice and ready for patching so mix up some thickened
    epoxy will really fill this in nicely this was not that large of a void but
    still I couldn’t fill the whole area up in one go with the thickened epoxy as
    that would cause too much of a heat buildup in the curing process and it
    caused smoking and maybe even melting of the surrounding area and then start
    laying in the cloth one big section first and then get to smaller pieces as
    we work into the center and then one big piece to go over the whole thing and of
    course some people would start with narrower pieces and work up with wider
    pieces till you fill up the whole valley and sometimes I do it that way myself so
    flip a coin it’s all just dick one big big batch of polyester resin
    about 12 years ago in Colombia I had some guys dig this area out well they
    should have dug this area out too but they dug this area out they pulled out
    the rotten coring the saturated coring and I told him on the rebuild I wanted
    it layered with fiberglass cloth and resin then I went away for five minutes
    I come back and his whole area is just full of just resin and no cloth I
    thought ah geez that can’t be strong but here it is 12 years later this area
    shows no sign of cracking or any other structural defects so polyester resin
    give it some mass and it’s surprising how robust it can be especially when you
    cover over the top of it with two layers of fiberglass cloth
    however polyester resin in just a thin layer say like 1/16 of an inch sheet
    with no reinforcing like fiberglass cloth or fiberglass mat it’s extremely
    brittle however give it that reinforcing of mat or cloth and that 1/16 of an inch
    or two sixteenth of an inch reinforced polyester then becomes extremely robust
    so enough layers or cloth or laid around the perimeter to make everything level
    and then one large layer of cloth to help smoothen things out goes down and
    then the peel ply is applied and that’ll help to make everything nice and smooth
    and require a lot less sanding for the final preparation and the end the faring
    out so in the morning we pulled the peel ply away the Amine blush goes away with
    the peel ply so I don’t have to wash down the area also the Peel ply lays
    down all the fibers of the fiberglass cloth making for a much smoother surface
    and a lot less sanding in preparation for the next step and then with a
    utility knife I cut away all of the dry fiberglass cloth that I didn’t need to
    saturate with resin that’ll make it a lot easier for sanding
    I don’t have to send all that up in to dust
    so just a bit of feathering in around the edges and then a little bit of sanding out in the field and we’re
    ready to do the fairing now I get to use S-Fair 600 fairing compound it’s a
    two-part epoxy you just mix it up 50/50 in the quantity that you need and go to
    work far easier than trying to mix certain additives into epoxy resin and
    then get it all spread before it all sets up so this is easy to sand not
    terribly easy to sand but it’s very doable and certainly much better than any other
    system that I’ve used before so we get this from AMT composites out of Cape
    Town after getting all the compound in place then I use this 10 inch 254
    millimeter wide compound knife to smooth and everything out but I had to work
    fast there’s only about a 10 minute work time before this stuff starts to set up
    so after a quick sanding with a random orbit sander we wipe everything down
    with acetone and paper towels we don’t use rags because we just don’t know how
    clean the rags are they might be contaminated with a bit of oil or grease
    that could mess up the work so paper towels are a much safer bet for the
    final wipe down and then Prime with two-part primer the only primer I could
    get was green in color so we had to go with that and then two coats of two-part
    white paint on top of that and next time we’ll be ready to install the windlass
    the backing plates and I can show you some repairs that we previously did on
    the bulkheads inside of the chain Locker and our new 3/8 inch Maggi chain made
    in Italy order from Maggi chain USA but there’s more to the story which we’ll
    have to cover in the next video I hope this video is worthwhile for you if it
    was please click on the thumbs up button and if you haven’t already on the
    subscribe button and also in the video description there’s a tip jar if you
    don’t mind helping out in that direction so thanks a lot for watching and we’ll
    see you next time