Browsing Tag: sailing tips


    A Simple Trick to Help You Moor Your Boat | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵

    September 20, 2019

    hi guys today’s sailing tips video we’re
    going to share something with you that we use to make mooring our boat a lot
    easier this is relevant if you have a setup like ours here where you have all
    the boats along the pontoon in a row and they’re secured at the bow by lines
    which go down to the seabed and then at the stern from your Stern lines the
    way that we used to moor on this pontoon and the way that everybody else
    still does it is actually quite difficult as you can imagine a day like
    today you come in with your boat you reverse to get into the correct position
    now if you’ve got boats on either side it makes it a lot easier so we were very
    happy when we’re going back into our slot and we saw there was a vote on each
    side but if you’ve got a boat or two missing this becomes really difficult
    what people do is they’re coming with their boats you have to stop the boat
    before you hit the dock pick up this line which is always tied
    to the dock and then you have to make the way all the way forward carrying the
    line not getting caught up in anything take it all the way to the bow, and it’s
    only when you pull up on that line and you take all the slack out then you get
    to the tight section of rope which goes down to a concrete block on the seabed
    and it’s only then that you’ve got control of your bow so in the
    intervening time when you’ve got wind from the bow like this you get blown off
    sideways it’s a complete nightmare and we’ve seen lots of boats get into
    trouble and crash into other boats because of this this is our really
    simple solution to that problem we’ve got a section of line here which is tied
    to the rope which will eventually go on to the bow of the boat and on the top of
    this we’ve got some floats and a loop basically when you come back in with the
    boat this float is obviously floating at the surface and the line that’s that’s
    eventually going to end up on your bow it’s shaped like this so if your boats
    up here you’ve got the line coming from the seabed it comes up into a kind of
    big lazy loop and then drop straight back down again so you’ve got a section
    of line going down from the floats to the top of the rope for the bow and the
    rope for the bow is down about two and a half meters away from the surface plus
    as you come in with the boat if you accidentally get too close to the floats
    the floats push away from your boat and basically it’s impossible to get your
    propeller caught in the line here so that’s one thing that you don’t need to
    be concerned about so all you need to do when you’re coming in with your boat is
    pick up the float and then this loop can go straight on to the cleat and then
    you’ve done your boat’s under control you’ll be headed into the wind and now
    you can sort out the stern lines and you can get on with the rest of your day
    with relative calm afterwards of course you use the proper large diameter
    lines coming from the concrete block on the seabed and this then becomes
    redundant and you can just tie it off out of the water and you just throw it
    back in again before you leave next time if you wasn’t for taste we wouldn’t be
    able to moor our boat on our own because I’m pregnant and I’m due next
    month and obviously can’t lift heavy weights and like this it is very very easy
    so hopefully it’s gonna help you as well if you’ve tried this trick, or if you have
    any other suggestions please comment below and if you like videos like these
    please leave a thumbs up see you next video ciao Ciao!


    How to Fit a Hammock (or two) on a Small Sailboat | ⛵ Sailing Britaly ⛵

    September 11, 2019

    Hello! In today’s sailing tips video we’re going to show you how you can fit a hammock onto a small sailboat. To stop the hammock from sliding down the shroud we’ve got this small diameter line attached to it which acts as a stop. Then you tie a knot with your hammock line. At the other end of your hammock attach the line like this… and now this can be put around the forestay, and the job’s done! Now it’s time to get on: Rossella is going to do that for us! First of all, put a leg on each side of the hammock, now from behind you stretch it out as wide as you can, while you gently sit down. Once it’s got your weight, you can lie back and enjoy some hammock time! This is a 30-foot boat and we can get two hammocks side by side so that Rossella and I can lie down and just chill out next to each other – it’s fantastic. Nothing beats lying in a hammock and looking at a view like this… [sunset viewed from bow of boat] Thanks for watching, subscribe for more sailing tips, and our other videos, and we’ll see you next time. Ciao [Ciao] you

    Dangers for Sailboats Sailing Africa-Preparing for Passage when DANGER LURKS! –Patrick Childress#34
    Articles, Blog

    Dangers for Sailboats Sailing Africa-Preparing for Passage when DANGER LURKS! –Patrick Childress#34

    September 3, 2019

    hello I’m Patrick Childress along with
    my wife Rebecca on the sailboat Brick House we are in Tanga Tanzania on the
    east coast of Africa and tomorrow morning we pick up anchor here we are in
    Tanga Tanzania on the east coast of Africa and we have one two three four
    five the blue one is the fifth international sailboat here were
    anchored just off the Yacht Club you see that sailboat doesn’t have a mast
    I’ll get back to him in a minute but we are getting ready to leave here to go to
    Zanzibar which is to the South right now that is pointing north and that’s where
    the wind’s coming from so once we get out of this Harbor we’ll have a real
    nice sail so I’m getting this boat ready so we can leave tomorrow morning it’s
    about a 45 mile trip so just a day trip but up here in the bow you can see it’s
    quite a mess up here over the last three days I’ve been pulling up the chain and
    setting it on a plastic tarp down to here on the deck and letting it dry out
    in the Sun getting all of the muck and growth off of it we’ve been here for
    almost two months so there’s a lot of growth on the chain that had to dry out
    then I’d put it back in the water and wash it off pull more chain up so we
    have a pretty clean chain so now when we put it down into the hawse pipe and in to the anchor locker the whole boat isn’t gonna smell like that an old dead fish and back here I’ll
    be tying down all of these empty fuel jugs there on the port side we certainly
    expect all the wind to be coming from the north and northeast so I want all
    these fuel jokes to be on the high side we’re running low on everything which is
    just fine I want to keep this boat as light as possible since we’re just
    coastal we don’t need to stock up with tons of gasoline and diesel extra diesel
    on the deck so right now I’m gonna get ready to put the jib sheet blocks back
    on to the track. We take those off when we’re in port for any length of
    time just to get them out of the way so we
    don’t fall and trip over them stub our toes we also get the jib sheets out of
    the way but also here in such a poor country the people are very nice the
    fishermen are nice but they are so incredibly poor a lot of simple things
    like line will disappear from the deck off the boat if you’re not careful Ok, we will go into the engine room and
    check the engine oil and a few other things and since I’m not going to do a
    proper sailboat engine room tour I don’t think there is just enough there to make it
    worthwhile I’ll just show a couple things here while we’re down in my
    favorite room in the boat there’s a nice seat over here to sit on we have the
    refrigerator and the freezer up here I have them shut off right now so they
    don’t make noise in the background for us so this is a 56 horse Yanmar engine
    Lily you’re in the way! She loves to help me in the sailboat engine room and
    so it’s been very reliable you can see that it’s in here backwards. this is the
    flywheel so it’s facing aft and that goes… the driveshaft is on the other side
    it goes to the, of course the transmission and then the V drive as in
    Victor that reverses the output and the driveshaft comes underneath the engine
    and out the boat we have dual Racor filters with a very important suction
    guage so the needle goes counterclockwise to the left as we’re
    looking at it and that will tell me if these filters are getting plugged and so
    I’m always checking that while we’re motoring. in the back here there used to
    be one big fuel tank 80 gallons but that ruptured long ago and another owner had
    put in these 2 40 gallon tanks they’re actually probably about 38 gallons each
    there’s one to port and one starboard the dividing line is right here so that
    helps us to distribute weight on the boat a little better so the galley the
    head a lot of weight is on the port side of this boat so it just has a natural
    port list so we always try to use the port fuel first also the water in the
    port water tank underneath this settee We’ll always use that first and try to get
    more weight back to the starboard. up here is a remote oil
    filter makes changing oil extremely easy I just put a little plastic cup under
    here take the filter off and it makes it very fast and easy for changing oil up
    here is the oil pump for changing the oil and there’s a hose is here that
    comes down and I can just put that into an empty container. so I check the
    tension on the fan belt half-inch depression mid span which is good. make
    sure we have enough coolant in the reservoir that’s good and we’ll check
    this engine oil hey Lily she loves to come back here and help me check engine
    oil don’t you kitten? I can do that pretty much by feel. wipe this off you
    know you pulled these dip sticks out and they never have anything on them but you
    put it back in and then the oil will show so we’re right up there to the
    proper line we’re looking good and I changed this oil not too long ago I
    change the oil every 100 hours the manual says 150 hours
    but I always go 100 hours even one thing – I wanted to show you you
    know you always hear about boats catching fire and sinking and it always
    seems to start in the engine room and so why is that what I think might happen in
    some of those cases is that a positive battery wire would be chafing on a hard
    spot like right here chafe through shorts out overheats and sets everything
    on fire so what I have done in some of these cases where it does lay on top of some
    metal just take a piece of strong water hose, cut it lengthwise and use some wire
    ties to hold it on so you have some good safeguard. this is the engine room blower
    that goes back out to the cubbyhole anytime our engine is running this is
    running there’s a manual switch that we turn on I want to get as much
    cool fresh air into this engine room as possible and get the heat out this is our new mainsail when we get
    down to South Africa and we haul out our old mainsail will become a drop cloth
    and then we can finally get this one out of our way so reach down in here to the
    V drive area and check the oil on the V Drive and the transmission and the sea
    strainer has been sitting a long time I’m gonna have to shut off the water valve
    and clean that out If we didn’t have this V drive reversing
    the output from the drive shaft this engine we have to be sitting up there in
    the galley somewhere so we checked the levels in the transmission and V drive
    and we are good to go so in the morning right at sunup around
    6 o’clock we want to leave Tanga for Zanzibar so I want to check the tide
    tables and see what the situation is going to be if we’re gonna be fighting a
    current or going out with the current so although you’re getting a flicker in the
    screen because of the difference in shorter speeds of the camera you still
    won’t be able to see this but what I’ll do is hold my finger on the screen and
    the menu comes up and cursor place Waypoint chart objects and’ find nearest’
    I want to hold my finger on ‘find nearest’ let it go and we have a whole menu
    here I’m going to go down the menu for waypoints. ports. tide stations. current
    stations. obstructions. wrecks and go back to’ tide stations’ touch that one and now
    we’ve get all of our tide stations along the coast and I want Tanga Bay
    push the enter button up here and it comes up so I don’t want today’s I want
    to push ‘tomorrow’ and in the morning low tide is
    at 4:45 so if we leave at 6 o’clock it’s just changed and it’s going to be coming
    back in and just starting to rise so we won’t have too much of a current to be
    fighting on our way out here high tide is going to be at 10:30
    a.m. with departure festivities we got delayed we are putting the dinghy up on
    deck that night in the dark that’s no problem we’ve done it plenty of times
    but we cannot be delayed in the morning we don’t want to wait until then to put
    the dinghy up on deck we have to leave just before sunup so that we don’t have
    to fight the current that will be shifting against us but also we can’t
    really be traveling in the dark because there’s dangers out there which I’ll be
    able to show you I’m certain on the way out of the harbor and also I’ll be able
    to show you what happened to that blue sailboat and how it got totally
    demolished Ok, and this is the first danger for
    sailing at night these little fishing boats are out all night many of them
    have no lights at all or they rely on just a little flashlight or a little
    lantern to hang up when they eventually see you coming and about to run them
    down it’s not only the fishing boats also their fishing nets will foul a
    cruising sailboat’s propeller and these fishing boats also have traps that they
    marked with just little empty water bottles plastic water bottles that are
    tied with some monofilament line and those will certainly wrap up around a
    sailboats propeller as well so there’s a lot of dangers in close to shore. As we move
    offshore there’s tugboats and this tugboat was
    showing no AIS signal. we have two AIS Displays and neither one showed a signal
    coming from this tugboat and that would lead me to believe that also at night
    there’s no reason for them to be showing the proper lighting that is required of
    a tugboat so sailboats sailing along the coast of
    Africa in Southeast Asia and a lot of waters around the world they have to be
    extremely careful because International Maritime Organization regulations really
    mean little there’s very little enforcement in a lot of these other
    foreign countries and this is what happened to that wrecked sailboat at two
    o’clock in the morning. he was 10 miles off the coast of Africa when he saw a
    tugboat and he decided to go behind it right into the tow line and that
    demolished his mast. the tugboat finally saw what was happening and slowed down
    and the barge came along and then just wiped out the rest of his boat and just
    spun him around like a top and just beat him up on all four sides of his boat and
    the owner of the boat says oh he finally did see that there was a light on the
    tow but it was so extremely dim you had to be right on top of it to see it which
    is very common in these foreign countries if you see a tugboat at all in
    the distance give him a wide berth and plan on sailing behind him only at a
    very great distance I was told that the insurance company for the tugboat does
    not want to pay as both captains were equally responsible for the accident but
    of course that is debatable it could be very helpful
    to keep a quick reference guide like this close to the helm or the nav
    station just in case there is some questionable light combinations out
    there on the horizon on some other vessel when we left Tanga Harbor we motor
    sailed on a beam reach due east and then once we were passed all of the shoals
    and small islands and out very much into deep water then we turned due south for
    Zanzibar and in the afternoon as expected as it
    does every day the wind shifted so we had to take down the running pole roll
    up the jibs and move everything off to the port side and there of course I had
    to make sure that the forward guy the after guy all come off the bottom of the
    running pole cleanly so that they don’t tangle or get crossed and that the
    mainsheet goes through the jaws cleanly and it won’t get tangled and to make
    sure that the topping lift comes off cleanly from the top of the running pole this running pole is two feet shorter
    than the J dimension that is the dimension from the mast to the head
    stay/ it’s just too short I would really much prefer to have it at
    least equal to the distance to the head stay but even better than that two feet
    longer and that way I wouldn’t have to be rolling up the jib like this I can
    get a lot more sail area out with a longer running pole. in this Pleasant
    weather it give me a chance to remark the topping lift and the forward and
    after guys just where to cleat them off at. there’s different ways of setting up
    running poles with the forward and after guys I just clean off the forward one to
    a cleat near the windlass and then have the after guy come back to a turning
    block and then a winch in the cockpit and that suits me this is not a race
    boat I can set it up any way I want navigation is so easy these days there’s
    no figuring out drift correction angles or distance time speed equations it’s
    all just right here in front of you there’s very little to think about and
    the machine like this which has a screen of eleven and a half inches across makes
    it so easy to see and gives a very good spatial awareness gives the true wind
    speed, maximum true wind speed, apparent wind angle, waypoint
    time to go, distance to Waypoint , on and on and on, everything you could possibly
    want to know and certainly takes all the mystery out of navigation which that’s
    fine with me we are heading down now to a nice little
    cove on the north end of Zanzibar. we’re gonna arrive well before sundown. if we
    keep on going there’s a good chance we’ll have to enter the marina after it
    gets dark and we haven’t been there before and we’re not in any rush. so
    we’re just going to have a nice Pleasant sail for the day and anchor in this cove
    that we see on the chart that’s a change, we have our picture
    taken! so we set an anchor symbol where we drop
    the anchor and then settle back and now our track is swinging in an arc around
    the anchor so in the middle of the night if we have bad weather or any concerns
    at all we can check the chart plotter and we’ll see if we’re drifting if we’re
    dragging anchor or we’ll know exactly what’s happening. Rebecca and I have
    never heard of anybody being boarded on their yacht anywhere along the Tanzania
    coast and accosted but why take chances we just feel much better putting in the
    security bars closing the hatch and then inserting the bar into its proper
    position so the patch cannot be open from the outside but will also close the
    big forward hatch and dog that tight and just keep our security things…our
    knives or whatever we have close at hand just in case and we also left the bright
    cockpit light on but I didn’t go through the trouble of setting up our trip
    alarms Well are we back in Internet again? no…No internet? oh no. How many days has it been now? It feels like days, but 24 hours..that’s long enough! God In that amount of time the whole world could have just blown up and we
    just blown up and gone all the hell and all gone to heck, and we would never know it. Probably wouldn’t care! yeah really! we have enough food onboard and fishing line…Ah.. … a big ship out there huh? Yea. Its on AIS. Its at anchor. . Oh good, nice to see somebody has AIS out here that’s supposed to have it. So as we make our approach into the
    marina we always tie off the wind generator we don’t need that noise or
    having that thing spinning around and possibly getting in the way of anything.
    we roll up the Bimini and headsail and get that out of the way so we have better visibility
    over and around the Dodger plus we don’t need the extra windage. that thing can
    act like a sail and really blow us around and we don’t know what the wind,
    what the current is going to be inside the marina so we just want to streamline
    the boat as much as possible also on the way in I always have to think well what
    if the engine quits what do we do I mean we should be able to sail the boat to
    the dock but I’d prefer not to in a lot of cases I have to think well what would
    Kevin do? Kevin has a youtube channel called “how to sail oceans”. He sails
    everywhere on a 31-foot double ender gaff rig boat with no engine and so I
    watch his channel to refresh my memory on things that I have done only long ago
    and to learn new things so he’s got an excellent channel for those people who
    are out sailing now and you want to learn more and refine your skills Kevin
    on ‘how to sail oceans’. He wouldn’t ever turn on his engine he doesn’t have one
    to turn on and he would just sail into the dock here. and think nothing of it.
    After docking the boat one of the first things I did was go over the side and
    bagged the prop and the shaft with plastic bags it’d be far better to use a
    black bag or something that does not transmit any light at all to discourage
    marine growth but since this transparent bag is all that I had I went ahead and
    threw some laundry detergent powdered laundry detergent inside the bag and
    then installed it over the prop and that will help discourage any marine growth
    on the prop and on the shaft even though I had taken the time in Tanga it to wash
    off the chain it wasn’t enough it did start smelling so why not take advantage
    of the dock here all the fresh water and I pulled all the chain out of the locker
    and gave it a good rinsing and a little bit of a scrubbing and then let it dry
    out in the Sun so it’s nice to get all that mud and muck and old marine growth
    off and give it a good fresh water rinse before it gets stowed back in its chain
    Locker so now we’re in Zanzibar I’ve waited decades to get to this place
    and now we are here we get to explore this ancient incredibly historic Island!


    3 Simple Sailboat Tips EVERY Sailor MUST know!! – Patrick Childress Sailing #26

    September 3, 2019

    today on Brick House How the U V rays of the Sun affect your eyes, sometimes requiring surgery and how some
    unexpectedly inexpensive sunglasses can be better protection than the designer
    brand, and then shock absorbers for the main and jib sail when the wind dies but
    the waves are still up take that terrible snap out of those
    sails, how to fish out and patch a broken jib leechline
    a day on shore with the natives and some local yachting Madagascar style keep the
    bailer close by. Hello my name is Patrick Childress on the sailboat Brick House. I
    grew up in the southwest section of Miami and in the summer’s out of high
    school in the late 1960s if my friends and I weren’t waterskiing on the nearby
    lake then we were out scuba diving on the nearby reefs. In those days no one
    paid any attention to what the UV rays of the Sun were doing to one’s skin or
    their eyes. In 1979 I left Miami on a 27 foot sailboat to sail solo around the
    world. After completing that trip the worst
    part of that whole voyage was having to have both of my eyes operated on for
    pterygium. Pterygium effects anybody who’s outdoors a lot; construction
    workers, farmers, sailors, anyone who is exposed to constant eye irritation like
    dust, wind and especially the UV rays of the Sun. Pterygium starts out as a
    ‘pinguecula’. Take a look at this pinguecula. A pinguecula starts on the inside
    corner of the eye nearest the nose and it generally has a yellowish cast to it
    and it’s complete with blood vessels as it grows across the white of the eye and
    encroaches on the cornea, the clear lens of the eye, that is then called pterygium
    and is spelled with a PT. It can actually pull and deform the eye like a muscle
    and cause an astigmatism and certainly at that point it needs to be operated on to
    be removed. The sunglasses that are just open to the side they’re a benefit but
    they allow far too many rays of the Sun and wind in to damage the eye. A hat
    certainly helps but really the best thing is to use wraparound sunglasses as
    long as you don’t need prescription glasses – you can’t get wraparound
    sunglasses in a prescription as of yet. Some of the best glasses are
    actually the least expensive. These are safety glasses that you can buy at any
    hardware store for five or six dollars. The most important thing is to look for
    the ANSI – the American National Standards Institute designation on the
    Temple of the eyeglasses this will show that the safety glasses have been tested
    for impact resistance in UV protection along with other measures, These glasses
    are made of polycarbonate polycarbonate which is a natural inhibitor of UV rays of the Sun. Even if the glasses are clear like these safety glasses they’re 100% well
    did they ever say one percent 99.99% UV resistant. When the wind has died but the
    waves are still up what to do to take that terrible snapping slamming out of
    the main and the jib when you still have to sail? The best remedy that I have
    found is to use a snubber just like this anchor snubber that normally attaches to
    the chain. It can be looped around the boom of a mainsail and hooked back on to
    itself or a separate line can be tied around the boom and then the snubber
    attached to it or if the line is long enough on the outboard end of the
    snubber it can just be tied around the boom with two wraps and then tied with
    the bowline back on to itself and if you’re hanging out in Southeast Asia
    you’ll always see these old motorcycle inner tubes laying along the roadway.
    They may not be good enough to hold air but they’re great for shock absorbers
    whether at a docks or for taking that shock loading out of a sail while you’re
    still out at sea. So when we set up the shock absorber on this mainsail there’s
    a bail already on the boom its easy to attach to and it’s in a set up so when
    the shock absorber reaches its full extension then the mainsheet will take
    over the load. This certainly eases the pressure on the
    gooseneck and the sails. This shock absorber is set up on a Swan 53 and it’s
    so easy to set up the shock absorber on a Swan because there’s so many winches
    and cleats and all kinds of options to attach the bitter end to. Of course
    there’s a preventer tied to the other side of the boom. In this situation the
    shock absorber is set up as a jib sheet and once it gets to its full extension
    then the jib sheet takes over its loading in this light air it’s just nice
    to have a running pole, a lightweight running pole, to help hold out the jib so
    it doesn’t have such a throw for its movement. The outboard end of the pole is
    attached to a sacrificial loop of line that’s tied through the clew of the sail
    it also acts like a great hinge point and these light winds for my own use I
    just don’t see any sense in going through all the trouble to set up fore and aft guys and topping lifts. It’s just as easy to man handle these running poles and
    especially these smaller lighter what I would call whisker poles. In this
    situation the jib sheet is doing what it’s supposed to do but shock absorber
    is easing the vertical slamming on the sail and here you can see a close-up of
    the sacrificial loop of line to which the upward end of the running pole is
    attached to, so shock absorbers are a big help to save the sails, save the
    gooseneck, save the rigging, and also to ease all that terrible sounding noise. On
    the jib of Brick House and this is the clew of the jib and this is where the
    leechline used to be. iIt chafed through on this little cleat and we have no more
    adjustment, so if my problem is how to get the leechline
    out so I can tie a new piece to it and get us back in business again. So I cut
    just a tiny hole with a razor blade knife right through here being very
    careful not to cut the remainder of the leechline.Then I took this lighter
    and singed the threads so nothing would come unraveled. So now I’ll take my
    rigging knife and dig out that broken leech line and I’ll have about this much
    left to tie a new piece of line to, and get us back in business again. That was easy enough – sometimes you get lucky. On the staysail we had the
    same problem of a damaged leech line because of that cleat, but there, there was
    enough line exposed at the bottom of the pocket of the leech lines where I
    could grab it and pull it down and raise the sail up away from it and then clamp
    the leechline with vice grips the jaws of which were wrapped in tape so that I
    wouldn’t be biting through and breaking the leechline so that gave me enough
    exposed leech line to where I could tie it to a new extension and that was a
    much easier process getting us back in business. So I joined this Dyneema to the
    old leech line and I left a little extra here because there was a worn section in
    here I don’t want to risk tying to a bad area and having that break so I’ll shove
    this down it has a bit of stiffness to it and I can feel it coming down if I
    run into any snags and I can use a retrieving tool like this to shove up inside and grab the line and
    pull it down. But I think this is gonna work out okay. There it is, good
    I had a long pair of needlenose pliers I could have also stuck up in there to
    help pull it down. I’ll give myself plenty of line to come through… I don’t even
    like using this anymore because of that chafe factor. I’m gonna go around it and
    just use the eyes since we don’t really adjust the sail that much and I’ll give
    myself plenty of line. So I wrapped the new Dyneema extension through the eyes
    several times and then tied it off bypassing those terrible sharp jaws of the
    adjusting cleat. I don’t want to turn this into a destination YouTube channel
    but there’s just so many fun things that we get into I just feel like I need to
    show it to somebody… so I have a series of videos here that I’ve strung together
    and this shows our new friend Paul who showed us around his island and then
    took us for our sail in his dhow. This is the son of my sister …oh the son of your
    sister so your ‘nephew’. A cruiser had given Paul a solar panel and a 12 volt battery
    AND a single light bulb so he has enough power to also run some simple
    electronics. Very cool…look at the little kitten – a little snowball! How many kittens? Are there five? four? ONE? Meow Meow…Only one little baby hah? Better bring you back to your mommy before she misses you too much ha? This roof is made from palm..and the wood is for planking. Oh yeah…. This was the middle of the dry season so
    there wasn’t the waterfall that we had hoped for. But does the pig get smart yeah yeah yeah…and learn not to go…maybe he sees trap, and not to go yeah yeah yeah so maybe he see trap he see food but nah.. too dangerous…no
    no no no he like some food yeah because you you like some, you
    love some Rafia.( a flower seed) And how often do you catch pig? Maybe one or two weeks like this, they come in. Yes, On the first day, you make some seed and the pigs you come in to eat one day.
    ????///Oh ok… A Frenchman had been living on
    this island and went away for a couple of weeks at which time he died but while
    he was away a bad storm came along and washed his sailboat way up onto the sandy
    beach near the mangroves and it’s been sitting here now for several years. We had a fantastic fish lunch with rice
    and mango salad Singing… Thank you Paul for a fantastic day!

    Sailboat Heat Exchanger & Exhaust Riser Repair/Rebuild/Insulation-Yanmar 4JH3E-Patrick Childress #43
    Articles, Blog

    Sailboat Heat Exchanger & Exhaust Riser Repair/Rebuild/Insulation-Yanmar 4JH3E-Patrick Childress #43

    August 29, 2019

    what to make a video about today the
    only project of all the projects on this boat that are near completion is the
    Yanmar heat exchanger rebuild so let’s go take a look at the heat exchanger hello we are Patrick and Rebecca
    Childress on the valiant 40 brick house We are hauled out in Richards Bay
    South Africa doing a tremendous amount of work on this boat we are preparing to
    cross the Atlantic to Uruguay and then (Maybe) head down to Tierra del Fuego but right
    now let’s go into the engine room and deal with the leaky Yanmar heat
    exchanger. a leak developed at the forward end cap of the Yanmar heat
    exchanger at the bottom edge we were out in the middle of the Pacific at that
    time with few resources other than what we had on the boat I was able to take
    the end cap off clean up the area of deteriorated aluminum and patch it up
    with Marine Tex which is a very high temperature what I think of as a super
    epoxy then using high temperature silicone as a gasket put it all back
    together and it held for the longest time but eventually did started leaking
    again so I repeated the repair and eventually now that we’re in Richards
    Bay South Africa I felt this with this time to take it off and have the repair
    done properly at a radiator shop to get the heat
    exchanger off I first had to get the exhaust riser off of the heat exchanger at the
    rear end of the engine and that wasn’t easy
    I had unwrapped some of the asbestos insulation on the riser to get to the
    bolts the only way to get to those four bolts as it turned out was to take all
    the asbestos off of the elbow area and when I did that I did wear a tivek
    suit some gloves respirator and I had a little spray bottle of water so I could
    spray the asbestos before I unwrapped it it was very dry so it would be a lot of
    dusting particulate floating around in the air if I didn’t wet it down but all
    of this turned out for the better and what a terrible surprise on this engine
    that has about 4600 hours on it this elbow the riser it was in terrible shape
    it was a disaster that was going to happen somewhere down the line so
    fortunately we’re taking care of everything now and not only will we get
    the heat exchanger rebuilt but a whole new riser now at the very top of the
    elbow you can see the gray marine tex that I use to stop a leak and of course
    that’s just a patch certainly not a repair so we were going to be doing some
    work on this riser anyway but it’s amazing how well that marine tex
    worked in this incredibly high temperature area to plug up some very
    small leaks so we have to just disconnect the riser from the exhaust
    hose and we’ll get that whole thing out of the way and then continue working on
    removing the heat exchanger so by using specific petcocks I have drained all the
    salt water and coolant out of the heat exchanger so now we are ready to take
    the hoses there’s two hoses on the aft and two hoses off the front section of
    the heat exchanger and then release the arm of the alternator adjuster inspect
    this hose clamp I’m gonna put all new hose clamps on here no matter what these
    look like I don’t want to take any chances
    I’ve had these things break on me before this looks fine but it’s gonna get
    replaced anyway hunter I’ll throw that one away
    that takes a 13 millimeter wrench I’ll go ahead and disconnect that completely
    here and so we can fold it right on down out of the way I keep this 13 millimeter
    wrench hanging up here out of the way in its sole purpose is to adjust this one
    bolt for the alternator okay now we have lots of clearance the
    seawater pipe coming in and going to the raw water pump travels underneath the
    heat exchanger and is supported there by one bolt so that has to come off before
    the heat exchanger can come off of its mount so I’ll continue pulling all these
    loose bolts out I was very surprised you look at these bolts there’s no rust on
    them easy to undo nothing broke then there it’s one nut on a stud up here and
    there is one nut here I’ll go ahead and take off now I’m just worried about
    dropping this on my feet I don’t know how heavy this thing is gonna be oh
    that’s not that at all I thought it’d be a lot heavier than this that’s nothing
    easy okay every once in a while we have a nice surprise so now that we have
    everything out of the boat we can take a closer look at this nasty old riser and
    get a little closer look at the patch job on the front end of the heat
    exchanger so before anything else I wanted to
    scrub it down with laundry detergent you get all the grease oil off of it any
    residue and flush out the insides with fresh water so that we don’t have any
    salt water or antifreeze dripping in the car or on anybody when we hand it over
    to the guys that are going to be fixing it so as we dropped off the heat
    exchanger I had to go back to the shop and ask these guys how in the world you
    get these cores out of the aluminum housing I’ve tried to get this core out
    of this housing before and it would not budge so it turns out they soak it in
    water for several days and if they have to then add muriatic acid. Now what kind
    of acid did you say? Pool acid or you can use a very slight hycloric acid…muriatic acid – pool acid how about like vinegar would that do it as well? Or is that not strong enough. No that’s not strong enough. No no. Hydraulic acid or pool acid…the amount is very light.. normally to 5 liters its like a half a cup, not even a half a cup…its very strong…Soon as see the the small powders, then you know it’s activated so
    then you go to rinse it you try and free it or maybe you have to try it again because you
    could see as it was cleaning it, around the tube seat, it was opening. you
    had to get it all out before you started to bang it. And a couple weeks later we
    went back to pick up the rebuilt heat exchanger it was looking really good it
    costs us around 250 u.s. dollars and what a big savings that was over the
    cost of thousands of dollars for a new one. The thermostat cover was getting
    pretty grody I tried wire brushing it and also
    sandpaper but that wasn’t good enough so I took it outside and put it to a wire
    wheel and that cleaned it up nicely but just to be on the safe side we are
    ordering a new one and also a new thermostat. Its just time to put in new parts
    and be on the safe side for a long time to come
    okay just took the wire brush and this vacuum and cleaned out these exhaust
    ports as best as I could and made sure that I didn’t brush things inward even
    though I had vacuumed there and try to sweep the contaminants the carbon
    buildup outwards towards the vacuum and I’ve also cleaned very well around each
    exhaust port and we’re ready for reassembly. So we put on a new gasket and
    then hang the heat exchanger and then I’m just sort of putting these bolts in
    and I’m not really torquing them down so I can actually work from the right to
    the left the best way though when I come back to torque I’ll start from the
    center bolts and then work to the right and then come back to the center and
    work to the left. this is just a little bit of high-temperature anti-seize it
    doesn’t take much It does not matter is that much but you know we
    had talked about having this at an angle to go that way to help you water
    dispersion go that way rather than that be hard to change? No… so while everything is
    nice and clean might as well do some spray painting with some
    high-temperature spray paint I got at the automotive store. I’d like to try to
    have these hose clamps come off the top so if there is a leak dripping down it
    won’t be dripping onto the screw and causing that to rust. it’s the most
    vulnerable part especially if the hose clamp is a good 304 or 316 stainless and
    the screw might be a substandard stainless or maybe not even stainless at
    all hmm okay I’m finally getting these
    tightened up and there is one bolt that was actually it’s a screw since there
    isn’t a nut on the other side so there is one screw that was just longer than
    the others and it goes way in the backside I had forgotten about that but
    luck would have it they all went back in to the same holes that they were
    supposed to so torquing this I don’t know what the
    torque is I would imagine probably about twelve foot pounds but I’m not going to
    tighten too much just good and snug as the Germans would say I’ll spray a little
    I’ll clean this up with some acetone even though I just sanded it and it
    should be, and washed it, so it should be pretty clean I’ll clean it up with a
    little acetone and then put some spray paint on there that’s common steel this
    plate this mounting plate I didn’t want the stainless steel right up against the
    aluminum housing it has to be common steel even zooming way in it’s a little hard
    to see the bolt that comes from the aft cabin into the engine room
    and that’s a newly added support for the water hose the rest of the riser has its
    own support which is just to the right and outside of the picture so everything
    is much better supported now than it ever has been in the past taking the
    forward cap off of the heat exchanger would void the warranty it had already
    been pressure tested but I wanted to inspect the copper core edges and they
    were a bit deteriorated as I expected so I would feel much better using high
    temperature silicone along with the new o-ring to seal this end of the cap now
    once I had everything back together I went and took the cap off of the aft end
    of the heat exchanger and much to my surprise there was no gasket there has
    to be a gasket to separate the upper and lower sections of straws the water goes
    in through the bottom section and then comes out through the top section and
    goes up to the riser without the gasket in there all the water the cooling water
    floods into this end of the heat exchanger and really doesn’t know where
    to go it won’t have the cooling efficiency that it was designed to have
    so all I have to do is make a gasket or preferably order one to go in here I’d
    rather get one that’s specified for the thickness and everything else I know
    it’s going to fit right the first time with no messing around and then I can
    always use that one as a guide to make additional gaskets it’s not that big of
    a deal I mean the guys working on this did a great job rebuilding it it’s one
    of those little oversights but it’s a darn good thing that I did pull these
    caps. I’m going to give TOAD Marine a quick plug here we are way up on the
    north east coast of South Africa in Richards Bay we could order parts way
    down on the southwest tip out of Cape Town but they generally first have to get the
    parts from the US. well we can just order the parts from the US just as easier
    itself and it actually saves us a lot of money we’ve been using Toad Marine for
    our Yanmar parts for a long time they do a great job they ship internationally
    they help give a lot of schematics it’s just
    they alleviate a lot of headaches you need any parts check out Toad Marine
    finally we can wrap this thing up I still have the old asbestos insulation
    but most of that is pretty ratty it’ll have to be thrown away and I went out
    and bought this new fiberglass insulation it is actually glass fibers
    you don’t want to touch it you think asbestos is bad I don’t see how this
    stuff is much better if you touch it you get these fibers in your hands and it
    itches terribly much worse than grounding fiberglass on the hull of the
    boat so I’m wearing double rubber gloves a disposable suit respirator and
    tight-fitting goggles so if any of these fibers are floating around in the air I
    don’t want to breathe them or get them in my eyes or anything else so I start
    on the bottom and wrap it around I use a plastic wire tie to temporarily secure
    things and then wrap tightly as I go up with a 50% coverage
    sometimes I double up on the wraps and work my way all the way up to the top
    and then back around whatever is leftover we work in wrap around in the
    down ways downwards direction and then secure it temporarily until I can get
    some stainless steel wire ties on they only had one size not long enough to
    really fit so I used double I put two of them together so we have those at the
    beginning and at the end of the wrap and then I used trolling wire soft it’s a
    same thing as like leader wire but it’s very soft and very pliable so it’s very
    easy to twist around something like this and secure it rather than just cutting
    it off with the wire cutters after twisting it and locking it together I’ll
    bend it back and forth back and forth until it finally breaks that way you
    don’t have the meat hooks on the end you can rub your hand over it and you don’t
    get snagged and same way with the stainless steel wire ties so we have
    some good new insulation on the new riser and all we need now is the gasket
    for the end cap and we’ll be good to go For a
    water test I’ll get the water hose up here even though we’re on the hard and
    run the engine and make sure we don’t have any leaks before we ever launch.
    I hope this video was worthwhile for you if it was, please give it a thumbs up and
    if you haven’t already click on the subscribe button and also there’s a link
    to the tip jar in the video description if you don’t mind helping out in that
    direction so thanks a lot for watching and we’ll see you next time

    Galley Tips for Sailing an Ocean (on a Bluewater Sailboat) Patrick Childress Sailing Tips #22
    Articles, Blog

    Galley Tips for Sailing an Ocean (on a Bluewater Sailboat) Patrick Childress Sailing Tips #22

    August 25, 2019

    this is my favorite sail combination
    wing on wing on wing. The wind has settled down to about nine knots so we
    have to squeeze everything out of the wind that we can! Hello I’m Patrick Childress on
    Brick House. We’re on a passage between the island of Réunion and Madagascar in
    the Indian Ocean. It’ll be about three maybe three and a
    half day passage total. So come on down below and I’ll give you some tips and
    tricks in the galley on how to help cross an ocean. I don’t know why we ever
    bought a three burner stove we hardly ever use the third burner. two burners
    would have spaced out better on top of the stove so we could have a big pan and
    a pot and sometimes that the one burner will have a bigger burner this smaller
    burner will be more efficient and would give us more options.
    The third burner is just taking up space unnecessarily and of course at sea you
    always need fiddles. some people call them pot holders but I call them
    fiddles, they’ve always been called fiddles, and that’ll help to keep the pot
    on the stove as it’s gimbaliing back and forth or the boat is just really
    bouncing around off the wave tops but normally if it’s really rough we just
    don’t bother cooking. we’ll eat something cold out of a can or maybe just heat it
    up real quickly but if somebody is going to be cooking well that weather is rough
    it’s really is a good idea then to wear some foul weather gear just in case
    there’s a spillage, the cook won’t get scorched and of course bouncing off of wave tops
    they’re even just a normal motion of the boat it’s really a good idea to have a
    galley strap so that’ll look we have two positions one here and one here
    so that way if the boat is on a starboard tack we’re leaning it’ll keep
    us from falling into the stove the other option the other position and
    now we can lean away from the stove I really don’t like these heavy china
    bowls so much they’re ok if we’re at anchor in a nice calm place, but they
    have a small bottom so they tend to tip over if you’re at sea and also if they
    fall on to your foot it really hurts they’re very heavy they do retain heat
    for food but to me that is secondary I much prefer mystainless steel dog bowl that
    I got at the pet department in a grocery store it has a very large bottom nice
    and flat it’s hard to tip over it’s light falls on your foot it just bounces
    off with just a small ouch. but either one of these they’ll slide around on a
    smooth surface so you do need some non-skid that will hold it in place
    either one of these but if you don’t have non-skid another good choice is a
    damp paper towel either one it’s almost as good a Velcro The other thing is plates. these
    plates are nice in harbor but of course they do slide around a little bit.
    putting them on the wet paper towel or the rubber mat will keep them from
    sliding but the problem is everything else slides right off the top they’re almost useless when we’re at
    sea I much prefer a pie pan and this one is
    aluminum. it’d be much better to have a stainless steel pie pan. nothing falls
    out of it on top of a wet paper towel or the rubber mat it doesn’t go anywhere.
    the other thing is cups we really like these cups that are very wide on the
    bottom and they’re only a little narrower than they are at the top so
    they have a lot of good stability that’s heavy plastic that’s hard to break the
    other option at sea when things are really getting rough there’s a low
    aspect ratio mug it has its own top with the little holes in it so you can put it
    on top and have a nice secure drinking vessel. anything this splashes around
    tends to recirculate inside so it doesn’t come out the top. the one thing
    when these are bought at the local chandlery where the marine store is to
    first take out this tiny little screw at the top and the one on the bottom
    because they are just common steel and they rust out very quickly they need
    to be replaced with stainless steel screws but these cups also come with
    their own non-skid on the bottom really nice to have while bouncing out off of
    wave tops the one thing that this is superior for is a wine glass I don’t
    know why cruisers think it’s an absolute must to serve wine in a wine glass wine
    glass has special sizes and shapes and everything else to accentuate different
    flavors and the $5 box wine that all of us cruisers buy I don’t want to put your
    glass like this a wine glass like this that it’s very wide it breeds quickly it
    helps to make it taste much much sooner people look at me funny when
    I decline their wine glasses to put my five dollar wine in I’ll just stay with
    my big wide wine glass Thanks oh talking about paper towels it’s far
    better to get half sheet paper towels so that way if you cut them in half how
    often do you really need a full sheets even for keeping plates in place one
    half sheet will do it’s far more economical getting away from the u.s.
    paper towels are very expensive most countries that a lot of countries don’t
    even use them they are not available so we try to make do and be as frugal as we
    can with using half sheet a number of years ago seven seas cruising
    Association did a questionnaire with the sailboats that we’re crossing the
    Atlantic in a big rally and the question was how much fresh water did you use and
    do you have foot pumps also do you use salt water at the galley and those that
    only use pressure water fresh water went through exponentially more fresh water
    than any of the other boats that have foot pumps and especially those that use
    salt water so what we have is a foot pump for the salt water and the foot
    pump for the fresh water .with a foot pump
    we can much better adjust the water flow and how much we use rather than
    using the pressure water and trying to meter it with this little lever but
    better than that we wash all of our dishes in salt water.
    we can use as much of that as we want and then we rinse in salt water and then
    we come back and rinse the salt and everything else off with the fresh water
    a big conservation measure this little faucet in the back is for the product
    water of our water maker but we haven’t really needed it. we just don’t use that
    water maker in over eleven years now. we catch rainwater like this and we can
    also get water out of a nice clear stream we stay away from muddy or
    discolored stream the natives have been living off this water for thousands of
    years and so for us pelongies maybe our stomach isn’t used to some of the
    microbes that’s in it but it’s nice clear water certainly much clearer than
    what comes from the reservoirs and rivers that most municipalities in
    America use so add a little chlorine to it and you’re good to go
    rather than using a big dishwashing liquid bottle and trying to dispense
    from that it’s so much easier to have a little dishwashing dispenser that I
    picked up at Home Depot but the important thing in dispensers that you
    get at Home Depot are mostly chromed and those are junk, they’ll last maybe nine
    10 11 months before they really start deteriorating and tarnishing so you do
    have to spend a lot of money and get a stainless-steel soap dispenser that’s
    going to last and look good for any length of time. another safety item on
    the boat while we’re at sea this is one thing that I disconnected years ago was
    the internal latches through this tiny little finger hole I could imagine
    bouncing round off a wave top and coming out with a finger that just
    folded in half, so years ago I had installed these twist lock external
    twist locks and they’ve been on here now for over 11 years surprisingly they’ve
    held up far better than I ever expected them to but as a backup when the weather
    really gets rough I have this teak little twist lock here that helps to
    back up the upper twist lock now when we open the door there is a spring latch
    right here that holds the door open so when we’re bouncing around we don’t have
    to fight with this door slamming back and forth we can do what we need in the
    pantry here and then when we’re finished we just push the spring slightly and
    close the door we have that on all the large cabinet doors these screens came
    from Glebe Creek Screens located in Maryland. we have a similar spring up
    here on the big hatch. Just pop it it comes down it’s very fast and easy for
    closing now if we have the chance at a marina
    and before we head to sea we take everything out of the freezer and
    defrost and get all the ice off from around the expansion plate so that
    everything will be far more efficient while we’re at sea and just relying on
    battery power the first thing to go back in is this
    rubber mat that has a lot of prongs on the bottom and this helps to keep the
    food off of the bottom and help airflow underneath but that alone isn’t enough
    so this grading goes in like this upside down and that helps a lot for the cold
    air to circulate around the bottom of all the frozen food now we’re ready to
    pick the food in finish up defrosting the last thing we do is put the
    insulation and two layers of exercise mat there about three seven inches thick
    each and it helps to insulate the top a little bit and keep down the
    condesation. these doors are rather thick but a little sparse on insulation in these
    other areas being such an old boat they never really planned that well for
    insulated ice boxes which now turn into freezers and refrigerators and we have three cookbooks on this boat
    that are of any consequence that we do use occasional you want is the joy of
    cooking by far a better one for sailboats
    is the cruising chef cookbook by Michael Greenwald
    he has a lot of good advice in this book on food preservation in stocking up and
    a lot of great recipes one of the most unusual books and this is a classic is
    the best of people in food this is published back in 1983 by Barbara Davis
    who owned cruising world magazine along with her husband Murray and just to give
    you an example of what people ate back in 1983 while they’re sailing around the
    world on their sailboats is this recipe here it says take two frigate eggs and
    one sprouted coconut then you go ahead you can make pancakes out of that can
    you imagine printing something like that these days
    but this is what the true cruisers used to send into cruising world
    magazine for their ‘people and food’ section. excellent if you can get a hold
    of this book! (Streets and music of Isle St Marie, East Madagascar) Alright, so we made it to Madagascar! We have to pick out some
    good local music! Well I hope this video is good for you if it was please get a
    thumbs up down below and a subscribe and we will see you soon!

    Best Dinghy For Bluewater Sailboats(Hypalon vs PVC, Fiberglass vs Aluminum)Patrick Childress #24
    Articles, Blog

    Best Dinghy For Bluewater Sailboats(Hypalon vs PVC, Fiberglass vs Aluminum)Patrick Childress #24

    August 23, 2019

    with all the possibilities what’s the
    best choice of dinghy for a long-range cruising sailboat hello I’m Patrick Childress on
    Brick House. the best advice I ever heard about dinghy selection for a long-range
    cruising sailboat is to get the largest dinghy you can put upside down on your
    deck and the largest engine that you can put on that dinghy and that’s the advice
    we followed eleven years ago before we left the u.s. to travel around the world.
    so let’s start with the dinghy that we have and we’ll use this as a base then
    to compare some of the other dinghies that are in these harbors that we visit
    this is an Avon 2.8 meter. there are some things I don’t like about this boat and
    I’ll get into that in a while but what I do like about it is this
    moderate V shape to the hull and it’s a stepped V so this helps when you’re up
    on a plane cutting across the water at high speed going through small waves
    tend to cut through those waves if it was a flatter bottom it’s up on the
    waves and it starts pounding across the waves rather than slicing through them.
    however a flat bottom will get you up on a plane faster with less horsepower so
    it might be a little more fuel-efficient but I’ll take the trade off and go with
    the stepped V for the better ride also with the stepped v rather than just a
    flat surface like this these longitudinal angles help to add a lot of
    strength like stringers in a boat we’ve never had any flexing any cracking or
    any kind of issues with the strength of this hull of course we’ve hittin coral
    and rocks and I put a lot of gouges in it that’s inevitable with any boat and
    in 11 years now I did take some time out and had repaired the Nicks and dings in
    here and painted it once. this boat did not come with this rubber strip down the
    keel anything that’s going to be used for long-range cruising you’re going to
    be pulling it up on shore or it’s going to be hitting the bottom every once in a
    while by accident it really needs this protection so this comes
    in a big roll and it comes with some very good sticky on the bottom but it
    eventually did come unglued, so I had to reglue some of the areas with
    3m 5200 sealant which is a very good stickem. in the back of the transom the
    waterline when is sitting upright in the water is about right here and that puts
    of course the drain plug for the inner part of the dinghy below the waterline so you can get up on a plane pull the
    plug and all the water runs out well of course we bail it out from the inside
    with a cut open end Clorox bottle. one thing I don’t like about this dinghy is
    this inner hull drain plug is always below the waterline there’s no way you
    can drain the water that gets into this inner hull unless you pull it up on
    shore, or I raise it up on the side of our sailboat and then I jump in and
    reach over and pull this plug originally straight from the factory this fitting
    was not sealed properly water was getting into the inner hull through this
    drain plug there is also other water entry points which I’ll point out in a
    few minutes these projections on the back those are for dinghy wheels that’s
    another whole video. on the transom this piece of wood which is part of the mount
    for the engine was just regular plywood straight from the factory it lasted
    about four years before it rotted out and I had to replace it
    this is MDO medium-density overlay plywood. it’s a very dense plywood
    there’s no voids there’s no knots in any of the layers the glue that is used is
    very water resistant you could call it marine-grade plywood. there was also a
    finish on it of paper that was impregnated with epoxy resins so this is
    actually suitable for exterior signs. a lot of sign painters use the same type
    of plywood MDO medium density overlay and it’s been on here let me see for
    about eight years hold it around to the front of the boat
    yeah and to show you a few things before we flip it over and take a look at the
    inside there’s some rings here and one on the other side which I don’t use I don’t
    like putting that much of a stress on the rubber components especially when
    there is a good solid eye ring up here this Eye ring also did leak
    at one time I had to take it out actually from the day one it was never
    installed properly at the factory so I had to take it apart and seal it put
    back together and stop the leaks that were going into the boat.
    nice lifting handle here there’s a very good rub rail around the whole perimeter
    of the dinghy so a lot of good features here although it’s heavy I would prefer
    to have an aluminum dinghy which weighs almost half as much but we’ll get this
    over and into the water and take a look at the inside now on the inside of the
    dinghy either’s provisions for some oars one on that side and of course one on
    this side to go up into these little locks they oh they work okay but they’re
    nothing special these oars I’ve sanded and fiberglass them and patch them up in
    this area with rolls of fiberglass several times and it’s constant
    maintenance chore these wood oars just don’t last they’re always deteriorating
    and cracking longitudinally but regular maintenance and fiberglass has kept them
    together for me. on the inside these fuel tank tie-downs I don’t use it all I
    never have but I found that they just had little like rubber grommets screwed
    down and that’s where water was leaking into the inner hull so it’s a nice big
    flat this adds a lot of rigidity to the whole boat up front is the toe ring I
    showed you on the outside that I ring so that’s nice and strong that’s now sealed
    the two nuts in here I took off the backing plate and seal it all up we’re
    in good shape this line is for lifting up the dinghy
    at night getting it out of the water but in the back of course if I pull this
    plug water will come in and this recess the inner hull is below here and the
    drain for this inner hull of course is in the water right now down below but on
    something is that I like better this whole area comes in and you can actually
    drain this inner hull from inside of the boat so there’s a drain plug here and of
    course the outflow here to the outside of the boat that’s a far better design
    use the structure in the back here the transom there’s a flare here which adds
    to some strength what takes the pressure of the a forward thrust of the engine
    are these knees and then pressing against the rest of the structure of the
    hull these knees don’t look all that terribly big on either side but I’ve
    never had any cracks I’ve never had any structural problems with this boat I’ll
    show you some dinghy some fiberglass dinghies that have much larger knees
    it’s a much more solid design but it might be overkill if I knew that we were
    gonna be out sailing this long we thought we’re gonna leave the US and
    just be gone for four years it’s been over 11 years now and there’s no end in
    sight I would have bought in aluminium dinghy or as I say in Australia
    aluminium that certainly was much lighter much easier to handle it would
    take less horsepower to get it up on a plane although with our 15 horse mercury
    we don’t really have any problems we don’t have any shortage of power and
    there are other advantages to having aluminum if you pull an aluminum dinghy
    up on the rocks you hit some coral heads or whatever you’re going to get some
    scratches maybe some little dings but certainly it’s gonna be very difficult
    to breach the hull where on the fiberglass it can shatter and crack and you
    could have more difficulties with it although the fiberglass is easier to fix.
    however I have seen one aluminum dinghy that was leaking along one welded seam
    it was a very well built dinghy otherwise but now you have two choices
    of material basically when you buy a dinghy
    it can be hypalon like this gray in color or you can get I think white
    hypalon but also PVC which is generally white in color I believe and the PVC
    does not stand up to this terrible Sun down here in the tropics and all the UV
    rays. hypalon will last far longer. so PVC would be good in northern climates if
    you’re just doing coastal sailing and seasonally but for long-range cruising
    you certainly need at least hypalon there is a polyurethane dinghy but I’m
    not familiar with those I just haven’t seen any around but even though this is
    very Sun resistant you really need to have chaps and these this is our second
    set of chaps in 11 years now keeps the Sun off and all the chafing that the
    rubber would normally take additionally to the chaps we opened up an old fender
    that was really no good for anything anymore open that up and we keep it on
    the bow of the boats and now we can run straight into a concrete dock and idle
    the engine forward while somebody’s getting in and out of the boat if we’re
    pulling up the dinghy anchor and pulling the chain up we can just pull it up and
    over this rubber mat and it just saves a lot of wear and tear on our dinghy and I
    think that’s one reason why it’s lasted 11 years really without any major
    problems this Achilles has some nice features. its
    knees are about equal to what’s on my Avon but I especially like the interior
    drain plug for the inner hull it’s inside of the boat which is only common
    sense. the eyes for lifting the dinghy out of the water are mounted high on the
    transom for stability when it’s raised out of the water. on my Avon those
    lifting eyes are on the knees but very close to the floor and so it isn’t
    nearly as stable lifting it up out of the water so also this is probably one
    of the entry points of water into my inner hull but the way it was built the
    way it’s the fastened there’s nothing I can do about it it’s unfixable. This Caribe has one of
    the strongest transoms I’ve seen anywhere. it’s a very nice setup and also
    in the stern its very easy with a open Clorox bottle to scoop out in bailout
    the boat. and it has a nice large flat floor very strong looking dingy. this
    All-star aluminum boat has a nice inner floor it’s easy to scoop out the water
    with the baler. the knees on the back are boxed knees and when they welded them in
    they have just short welds possibly that’s drainage for in case water got
    inside of these knees but also it produces point loading on the floor.
    there isn’t a large plate on the bottom of these knees to help spread the load I do have to wonder about these plastic
    paddles on the oars and how long they’ll last attached to this thin tubular
    aluminum and the mounting for these oars is nice and high so when Road that wars
    shouldn’t be rubbing across the tube of the dinghy but I do like this mounting
    better on a different type of boat it’s a stacked system and it looks nice and
    strong but I especially like this oar lock with the flat spot on it so you
    insert the hole oar backwards with the paddle inward
    towards the boat turn it all around and start rowing and there’s no way that
    this oar can come out of the oar lock mounting. a very nice system there is an
    individual bow tube on this dinghy so there’s three individual inflatable
    sections which is a very good idea. this is a fairly new dinghy and already it
    has some deep gouges on the starboard bow from dock lines good reason to
    always invest in chaps for the protection that they afford. I have no
    idea what brand dinghy this is it’s a very old aluminum dinghy made of very
    thick aluminum. these are the knees that I would want on my own boat where their
    on pads that then are welded to the hull of the boat to help spread the load and
    the forces. there’s also large pads on the transom where these knees are
    attached to there’s plenty of room in the back to bail water out although these knees are not fully
    welded all the way around the base at least they’re attached to a plate which
    does help to disperse the load to the rest of the dinghy. this aluminum dinghy
    has a v-shaped hull so without a bottom a flat bottom on the interior you have
    to have non-skid so your feet don’t go slipping all over the place. and looking
    at it underwater it has a longitudinal what I would call a stringer on the
    starboard and one on the left on the port side so that it does give the hull
    rigidity and also possibly helps to get it up on a plane there’s also a factory
    installed rubber keel guard which is a nice addition. now this aluminum dinghy
    the interior floor comes all the way to the stern makes it extremely difficult
    to get the water out you have to pull the dinghy up on shore and pull the plug
    or raise it up out of the water next to your sailboat and pull the plug or have
    some other kind of small baler like a hand pump that you can fit into that
    tiny hole back there to get the water out there’s all kinds of options that
    you can get with these things like these storage compartments in the front but
    most cruisers that I know of they’re trying to eliminate weight not add
    weight to their dinghy plus it’s incredibly expensive to add those
    options. well this video can go on for hours we could talk about the diameter
    of the inflated tubes the material and how much overlap there is and how it’s
    joined to make those tubes and on and on hopefully I gave you enough information
    here so you can make an intelligent decision about the RIB
    rigid inflatable boat that you’d want for your own cruising sailboat or maybe
    decide you don’t even want a RIB, that you want just a straight small inflatable or
    even a fiberglass dinghy, but anyway I hope it helps out. I want to talk about
    outboard engines here in a second but also at the end of this video if you can
    just click on the thumbs up button down below there
    and especially this subscribe even if you never watch another video
    it just helps with our numbers for the fun of it and that’s what these videos
    are about just for fun. also at the end of the video I want to show you some
    underwater video that we recently took here in Madagascar but as far as
    outboard engines go there’s only three manufacturers that I would want on our
    sailboat that Id ever want to deal with. One is Yamaha, Mercury and Evinrude Evinrude / Johnson are the same
    engines. Yamaha I would want first only because it has such a big distribution
    around the world. Mercury is not nearly as good distribution and then of course
    Evenrude / Johnson is just hard to find. but parts availability is the big thing.
    but all three are equally as reliable good engines. but we wound up with a
    Mercury outboard which we bought in Nassau Bahamas because there were no
    Yamahas available. they’re excellent engines but I would only want a
    two-stroke engine. two-stroke engines have a much better power-to-weight ratio
    than a four-stroke engine and there’s no problem at all finding two-stroke oil
    anywhere in the world. On all these cruising boats around here it’s actually
    very rare to find a four-stroke engine. two strokes are far more popular
    than the four-stroke engines. this mercury is made in Fond du Lac
    Wisconsin for export only being a two-cycle our original mercury we paid
    eighteen hundred dollars for in Nassau Bahamas and then years later even though
    it was running fantastic would start on the first or second pull we had a chance
    to buy another brand new mercury exactly the same made in Fond du Lac Wisconsin
    in Guam and had that sent to us then to our location in the Marshall Islands and
    there again we paid eighteen hundred dollars for it so these are great
    engines they last forever this one I don’t even remember how old it is but it
    still starts up first or second pull. when it was brand new it really looked pretty
    but right away I took black spray paint and went over all those nice-looking
    decals and covered it up I don’t want the nicest looking engine out here. our
    other engine and you’ll see this on a lot of cruising boats they will have two
    different sized engines; ours is a 3.3 mercury this is the same as a Tohatsu
    engine. mercury just puts their label on it and it’s made in Japan this is much
    easier lighter and easier to pull up on the beach with the dinghy wheels. also in
    these questionable neighborhoods where we go to a dinghy dock and leave the
    dinghy for a long period of time if this one disappeared it isn’t quite the
    disaster then if our 15 horse disappeared.
    also with we want a 15 horse engine on our dinghy I forgot to mention that is
    our tugboat if we ever get in a real problem up on the rocks or anything we
    need a powerful engine to help rescue ourselves. the little chintzy 3.3 just
    wouldn’t do it. also while we’re anchored anywhere in the world we always have
    things securely locked up and we don’t give the thieves any chances at all so here’s some underwater video around
    Madagascar… Please Give us a thumbs up,down below and be sure to SUBSCRIBE… Drop us a line with what you would like to see in future videos, OK?


    Bluewater Sailboat Tour-INSIDE a Valiant 40 -(Our Tiny Home)2 Of 3 Patrick Childress Sailing #31

    August 18, 2019

    Valiant 40 Part 2 Hello I’m Patrick Childress on the sailboat Brick House … welcome aboard today is part two of the valiant 40 tour
    down below so let’s turn the cameras around we’ll go through the hatch board
    and take a look at one time all the trim around the companionway was teak now
    it’s very low maintenance polyethylene bottom wash board that’s
    also solid polyethylene very low maintenance very sturdy so let’s go down
    below we’ll take a very quick tour of this valiant 40 and then we’ll come back
    and look at some of these items in much closer detail on the right side the
    starboard side is a hanging Locker for all the foul weather gear and we also
    keep our flares in there just forward of that is the pantry with several shelves
    and very deep storage for lots of food storage and on the port side is the aft
    cabin which we often call just the bedroom and the port side of course is
    the galley and we’ll come back and take a closer look at the galley in just a
    few minutes. On the starboard side is Rebecca’s domain the nav station she
    installed a lot of these electronics and she maintains the electronics since she
    does all the navigating for us makes it easy for me she just tells me to turn
    right turn left how far up ahead to go and in the next video she’ll actually do
    a little orientation on the electronics what we have and how useful they are on
    the starboard side is a water tank under the settee that one is about 60 gallons
    capacity there’s a tons of storage behind the backrest they go all the way
    out to the hull and we have the stereo cabinet up here behind that white door
    and then there’s another 60 gallon water tank underneath this settee on the port
    side and in the next video I’ll go through what we did to save these
    aluminum tanks they were very heavily pitted and it was gonna cost a fortune
    to rip these out and try to fit something else in so we have a remedy
    that has worked for all these years and we’ll go into that next video up
    here on the left is even more storage and there’s also lots of ventilation in
    this boat lots of hatches and port lights so we really don’t need wind
    directors to force more air through these hatches this is a hanging Locker
    on the starboard side and more clothes storage in shelves just forward of that
    on the port side is the head it’s just the right size it’s not too big not too
    small so we’re not too cramped some people have problems with their Jabsco toilet. We just don’t have problems with ours and I have a few tips I think that
    might help you out which we’ll cover in the next video but I like the size of
    this head we have a shower curtain that goes around to contain water when we’re
    taking a shower it has all the amenities that we need to be comfortable on this
    boat. Stored up forward is the Barracuda sewing machine very similar to
    the Sailrite, a lot of the parts are interchangeable. and the v-berth is not
    for personal storage this is where all kinds of parts and supplies are stored
    stainless steel nuts and bolts fiberglass, fiberglass resin, glue, all
    kinds of extra stainless steel parts are stored up in these shelves sandpaper,
    tools you name it so we are pretty self-sufficient out here if something
    should break and the same for the storage up here on the starboard side in
    all these shelves and a way up in the chain Locker we’ll
    get to that in the next video we have a hundred and fifty feet of chain that we
    store up there and then in that PVC tube that comes out of that is a is where the
    other hundred and fifty feet of chain goes to down below the V Berth – we like
    to keep as much chain as low and aft as possible. To the hanging Locker and we’ll
    get started there oh there’s one other thing I forgot to mention we’ll also be
    taking a look at the main bilge pump underneath this floorboard and we’ll
    take a look at the emergency electric bilge pump that is much farther forward
    way up underneath one of these floorboards and of course we have the
    high capacity hand operated bilge pump in the hanging Locker normally we try to dry the gear before
    it goes into this locker but even if it did go in here wet any water would just
    drip down into the bilge work its way there there’s a nice big shelf up here
    another shelf a little further down plenty of storage space and this is also
    where we keep all of our flares and emergency signaling equipment. This is
    also where the emergency hand operated bilge pump is located. What was in this
    space originally was a Whalegusher 25. It wasn’t installed properly the
    discharge went directly out over the side of the boat without a high loop so
    it was very easy for sea water or rain water just to back right down
    that discharge hose and settled inside of the pump. A proper discharge loop starts
    at the discharge thruhull going out the side of the boat and then goes up
    just as high as possible before it goes back down to the pump so
    when I went to rebuild this it was so heavily corroded inside it just wasn’t
    repairable so we replaced it with a very high capacity Edison pump it’s a
    tremendous pump it’ll pump one gallon per stroke if I had two inch hoses on
    there but because of area restrictions in the hose run I could only put in one
    and three-quarter inch hoses so it’s a little bit less than one gallon per
    stroke. On the discharge side I have a very high loop but also one of these
    see-through check valves certainly it’s not the best idea to have a check valve
    in any kind of a discharge bilge pump but at sea water no other water is going
    to be backing up and just sitting in this pump it’s going to be fully
    functional if we ever need it down here is where all the water in the boat
    collects in a stainless steel sump that measures six inches by eight inches
    across so it’s a very tight squeeze putting the pump and the float switch in
    here but I can squeeze it out, take it all
    apart and clean it out occasionally because muck does at times keep the
    float from going up and down properly is over here this is the sump discharge
    from the shower so the shower pan goes through that green pipe and comes out
    into the sump here and then gets pumped overboard the important part though is
    to put a screen on the end of that discharge otherwise you get all
    of this muck they hear the soap scum everything you would go into the sump it
    helped to clog up the pump so this way we capture it in the screen I can take
    it out dump it into the garbage can wash out this little plastic screen and then
    slip it back on keep all that hair and gunk from clogging up the most important
    bill bilge pump on the boat now I’ll take you up forward and show you the
    emergency backup bilge pump that has never seen water and hopefully it never
    will. in this forward bilge area, this is an area that just never should ever get wet so water has to get
    in this bilge up to this float switch of course before it’ll finally turn on so
    that’s pretty darn high in this bilge area when it does turn on we have that
    round alarm this is the largest bilge pump I could possibly fit in this area
    and you can see there’s no way that I could attach it at the base like you
    normally would it’s held in place with this PVC pipe
    that I just cut the section out of to make a ring that hole slips over the top
    and then this PVC horizontal piece is attached to that ring and then to each
    side to the vertical piece attached to the frame of the boat to finish up in the hanging locker this
    is where we store the hatch boards we have these two teak twist locks that
    securely hold them in place and then the hatch screens get stuffed on the far
    side of those and they’re wedged in nice and securely… and this is the pantry it
    was way back in here this is the single sideband radio and of course the control
    head for that radio is at the nav station the next shelf down is more food
    and then the very bottom shelf is a lot of hand tools which are always getting
    used as they’re in a very convenient spot along with over here in the galley
    we have all these drawers but this drawer is dedicated not to silverware
    well it’s not aware that I like to use more than all the other, because we’re
    always using all kinds of screwdrivers all the Phillips head or on that side
    and the flat heads are on this side these are always being used I can’t be
    digging out things from the engine room or some other storage space all the
    time but one thing I changed very quickly on this boat were these little
    finger holes with the latch behind I could only imagine my finger breaking
    out in the middle of an ocean and in fact a commenter on one of the earlier
    videos on galley tips said that’s exactly what happened to him he was
    reaching in to unlatch the door the boat hit a wave and his finger broke 90
    degrees in anticipation of something like that happening I did away with
    those latches and I installed these twist lock latches up here I’m actually surprised that they’ve
    lasted over 12 years now this is 2019 but just as a backup we have
    this little latch down here in fact in rough weather when things might be
    coming out and slamming against the door we always put on these extra security
    latches at the top of the door to help hold these open especially in rough
    weather are these Springs so the door can’t close push and now it’ll close
    easily so we don’t have to fight with the door along the ocean so to close the
    hatch you just pop the spring thumbs down real quick and easy any
    water that becomes a waterfall down this companionway which has happened out in
    bad storms will come down and eventually work its way down to this grating and
    then just simply runs down into the bilge.. another great idea.. oh hey there
    Lily she just woke up from her little hiding spot way in the back of the boat. I
    really like the layout of the aft cabin. Underneath this cushion is the V Drive
    and the transmission so it’s very accessible this white panel pulls out
    and up here is the storage cabinet and the bunk is 6 feet 10 inches long in
    four feet wide the only problem that I can really see is this side deck in this
    location the person sleeping on the outside can have a little difficulty
    crawling over the person on the inside. (but that could be a nice thing!)
    Underneath this area it’s all storage it is full of stuff all kinds of spares
    there’s no personal storage here there’s all kinds of electrical supplies wires
    in the back section is the hot water heater the regulators for the hooker and
    the scuba tank are stored way down in here just all kinds of repairs and
    Spares. and of course way down underneath here are the batteries we have six
    Trojan batteries golf cart batteries (T-105) one day I’d like to get caught up with
    modern technology and get some lighter batteries that have equal if not more
    amperage capacity I like the way the galley is laid out
    and actually the nice close U shape so you can’t really bang around too far
    you can always brace yourself against something while you’re working around
    the galley it’s a really good idea also on this boat we have a galley strap so
    we can lean against it while we’re cooking
    or at another position we can actually lean forward and keep from
    being thrown into the stove these countertops are solid plastic it was
    originally Formica and this work was done in Cartagena Columbia by a man
    named Eder who does a lot of this work and he did a pretty good job it is in
    Corian quality but it’s the next best thing and for $800 for doing
    everything here I think we got a pretty good deal this is a soap dispenser this
    is fresh water foot pump saltwater foot foot pump and this is the product water
    for the reverse osmosis system that we never use we just don’t need it we get
    all of our fresh water from the faucet on shore from the rain and sometimes a
    very clear stream but for washing dishes we use the salt water we rinse in salt
    water and then rinse in the fresh water we hardly ever use the pressure water we
    only use the pressure water really at the sink occasionally because we have a
    filter down below to filter the water that comes out of the fresh water tank
    and Rebecca likes to use that I’m not nearly as fussy about the water I drink.
    and back here is a big storage bin way down to the bottom of the boat all kinds
    of pots and pans we don’t have anything out here because I try to clean up for
    our ‘company’ and threw it all down here to hide it out of the way like throwing
    it under the carpet yeah we don’t normally live like this… and over here is
    the refrigerator yeah we got the freezer here it goes down very deep normally we keep these exercise mats on top of
    the refrigerator to help with insulation a lot of this is covered in video number
    22 which is galley tips and you’ll also get a very good look way down inside of
    the freezer how we defrost it and the things that we put in there to help aid
    the airflow in the freezer also in video number 20 about provisioning we go
    through a lot of these lockers pull things out and show a lot of different
    foods and how to store items on your boat and what to buy what not to buy
    while you’re out cruising long distance there’s tons of storage back here
    Bob Perry did a great job of using all the storage capacity on this boat and I’ll
    show you more of it as we move around these cabinets are full of dishes and
    cups all kinds of silverware so we’re not lacking at all for storage capacity
    well I hope other people have had better luck with their gourmet II princess
    stove than what we have had. we installed the stove in 2012. right from the get-go
    we had problems with rust it was rusting just way too fast and
    then up on the burners there was always a yellow flame and the company just
    wasn’t that helpful with us trying to figure it all out but eventually after
    trying so many different things we discovered that it was the caps that
    were not manufactured quite right and so when we got new caps and put those on at
    her own expense through a different source that took care of the yellow
    flame and now we have some nice blue flames the way they were supposed to be the original pot supports for this stove
    seem like in no time they started flaking off hunks of rust so we had to
    have new ones made out of 304 stainless and these are holding up far better
    sinks this sink on the port side was originally made far too deep seawater
    would back up through the drain hole and flood the sink when we’re just slightly
    heeled over to port. when this sink was about 38 years old I just couldn’t
    patch it up anymore on the bottom it was just rusting through so much that
    Davao City Philippines we had this one made to replace it and I only made it
    about an inch and a half less deep I probably should have gone to two or
    maybe even three inches less deep just to make sure that we are well above the
    waterline but it’s been adequate but this is simple to make the old one
    actually I cut out with an angle grinder starting from one side work down the
    bottom and brought up it was very simple to do and then just took it out and the
    people at the sheetmetal shop used that as the template for making this new one
    so it’s very simple to make with the curved sides and the very flat back and
    the flat front and it does have the flanges on each side for mounting up
    underneath these sink on the starboard side of the galley this is 43 years old
    now and it’s rusting on the bottom I haven’t had a patch it up just yet but
    when we haul out in Durban South Africa in a couple of months we’ll have a new
    one made there the sink on the port side was this 304 stainless hopefully in
    Durban they’ll have some 316 stainless to make this new sink. Once again time
    has really gotten away from me I just keep seeing more and more things to
    point out as we go through the boat so certainly there’s gonna be a part 3 part
    4 maybe even a part 5 we’ll just keep it going until we run out a boat hey but
    thanks a lot for all of the positive comments that you have been making
    that’s great encouragement to keep doing what we’re doing
    also of course if you can click on the thumbs up button down there and
    especially the subscribe if you haven’t done already that’ll be a big help so
    thanks again and we’ll see in a couple weeks for the
    next part of the Valiant 40 Tour – down below

    Lead Acid Batteries can EAT a SAILBOAT! (Patrick Childress Sailing #44)
    Articles, Blog

    Lead Acid Batteries can EAT a SAILBOAT! (Patrick Childress Sailing #44)

    August 18, 2019

    can you believe this rotten mess came
    out of our sailboat hello we are Patrick and Rebecca
    Childress on the sailboat Brick House, a Valiant forty and we are
    hauled out in Richards Bay South Africa doing a lot of work on this boat
    actually Rebecca’s back in the US right now for six weeks and that gives me some
    opportunity to dig into cabinets fix bulkheads tabbing all kinds of things
    and now investigate what happened inside of our battery box about a year ago
    while we were out in the Indian Ocean I saw a dark spot the upper one kind of
    growing and I did not see that as a good sign I only figured ahead to have been
    battery acid so now that we are in Richard Bay South Africa hauled out this
    is the time to dig in there and find out what’s going on in that battery
    compartment so first I had to take all the batteries out of the compartment
    there are six Trojan batteries in here so disconnect all the wires yanked them
    all out I pull this pad out which we had originally installed long ago as a
    cushioning underneath the bad reason if any acid spilled to help protect the
    wood surrounding it so I got out a screwdriver and started poking around I
    uh oops what a surprise I mean how could
    these batteries have not fallen through that flooring and even this the support
    column was just eaten up by acid this was a total surprise and very
    frustrating I used to fix rotten houses in Rhode Island so I recognize the
    problem here you just have to start taking things apart and taking more
    things apart and keep taking things apart until you finally get back to
    where you might find some good wood and so I started demolishing everything
    unscrewing some of these screws though had been in here for a while carrying
    supports that they just would not turn so I had to get in with a dremel and a
    cutting disc and cut the heads off that way I’d be able to yank the
    screw through but grabbing hold on the support on the other side this is inside
    the galley just below the sink of course there’s always the fear of catching
    something on fire so I did have a spray bottle of water right next to me and
    every once in a while I would just stop the grinding of the screw heads and
    spray down the area with water and unfortunately the boat didn’t burn down
    but I was able to then he yanked the screw issue right on through that
    three-quarter inch plywood wall and you can see the damage on that wall between
    the battery compartment in the galley very soft wood in that area and this
    horizontal support this is actually pressure treated lumber and it wasn’t
    nearly as soft as some of the other wood so this floor I had no idea that it
    would just pull right up it was actually just setting in there so that was the
    easy part to get out but that wood was very saturated with moisture it didn’t
    harm my fingers I wasn’t wearing gloves so maybe the acids were neutralized I
    really can’t explain anything more than what I suppose caused the damage but now
    I have to figure out how to get this panel out so I start tapping up the trim
    strip on top of the three-quarter inch plywood panel I want to save all the
    wood for the installation the last thing you want to do is take nails and pound
    them back through the way they came into the wood that’ll rip out the
    nice-looking wood on the far side so just grab some wire cutters and twist
    the nails out in the direction that they were pounded that’ll leave the face of
    the trim strip intact so then as a matter of prying things loose
    fortunately this wasn’t glued it was just all nailed in but it was hanging up
    on the far left side so that would call for the multi-tool which is a very nice
    little tool for getting into tight places and cutting wood but I didn’t
    want to harm the teak finish on this cabinet so I put two layers of
    blue tape and went to work with the multi-tool just cutting straight in
    making a nice straight cut and of course vacuum cleaner trying to suck up as much
    of that dust as possible along with every touch so these are punch cuts just
    going straight in so I go all the way through and back out and make the next
    punch cut and of course that vertical support that’s going to be changed
    that’ll come out we don’t know what caused the battery acid leakage whether
    it was somehow over charging the batteries maybe that bad storm that
    we’re in in the Indian Ocean that shook the water out something to do with the
    battery caps we really don’t think we had the batteries overfilled so so far
    it’s just a mystery to us be real careful because it’s very soft down here
    I don’t want to break it it’ll be like a magic trick disappeared
    I thought I might be able to get away with just scraping back a layer of two
    of the plywood flooring and I scraped in I scraped and it never got any better
    the moisture meter just showed that everything was very wet no matter what
    it looked like it was still incredibly wet so that meant I had to cut the
    tabbing out that was sort of holding it in place and use a small dremel with a
    rotary cutting disk cut that tapping back out and he yanked it out of here
    and then I would gain more access to that second flooring and there is more tabbing to be cut
    along that partition wall between the F cabin in the galley area just below the
    sink there is so much of that area that would have to be cut out and be replaced
    also with new wood amazing what acid will do how far it’ll go and this is one
    reason why it’s good that Rebecca is back in D who have there’s just not room
    for two people so much has to come out of these cabinets and storage
    compartments and there’s just no place to put it all so we have four Trojan
    batteries sitting out here in the main passageway we have two more under the
    chart table and this is where they sit all day while I’m working in the half
    cabin at night I’ll put two batteries in here and hook them up in parallel so I
    have 12 volts just to run the lights around the stereo the computers didn’t
    have enough to get me by it also runs the refrigeration I used a little 18
    volt Sigler saw to start cutting out the bad area between the battery box in
    below the galley sink and then I decided I’d better sand the good wood in that
    area in prep it now for fiberglassing that way later on I won’t have all that
    dust flying into the galley sink area so we got that cleaned up nicely and then
    went back with the multi-tool and squared off the corners where the
    circular saw couldn’t get and then did a little chiseling and the old rotten
    board was ready to come out timber well somehow in cutting out this panel I
    didn’t cut into these water pipes I tried not to but you know trying doesn’t
    always work sometimes it takes a bit of luck at least three eighths of an inch
    of plywood out of here and still it’s damp
    I checked it with the moisture meter it reads very high and I can feel with my
    fingertips underneath here the moisture does go back underneath the flooring so
    what I’m gonna have to do is pull up the flooring and I’ll come back to this
    stringer no matter what happens I just can’t go back any farther than the
    stringer I’ll have to put new plywood from here all the way over and replace
    that okay so this is what we have all the
    rotten fluorines out of here good underneath here this is all solid
    this is good very sturdy and we have a little gap in the framing for the hoses
    and wires to run Oh once again I got lucky
    good I didn’t hit anything with the sauce oh look at that and down here
    okay this frame of this stringer is the foam right here it just never got fully
    encapsulated in fiberglass at the factory so yeah I don’t know I’ll
    probably put something on top of it and glues clean this up real good and put
    something on top of it to help carry the load because we have just a tiny little
    speck back here to carry the after end of this subflooring so yeah I’m gonna have to build that up
    and no work on that tomorrow and then just get the materials to put everything
    back together so good the end of the destruction everything else is looking
    good and solid back up in here this wall maybe I’ll stand this and get it ready
    for varnishing while everything is out of here okay the worst is over with now
    just putting it all back together well what just took 11 minutes in video
    took two days in real time and there’s even more rotten bulkheads and just
    pieces off to the left side as we’re looking into the cabin here but I didn’t
    think you needed to see every gory little detail but it’s incredible just
    how much damage battery acid can do so it was this goes back together
    everything will be all fiberglassed if it isn’t fiberglass it will be
    fiberglass so if there’s ever again any acid spillage it won’t be a problem it
    won’t be able to escape its containment center and that’ll all start going back
    together in the next video I certainly do appreciate you watching and sticking
    it through all of this terrible destruction and if it was worthwhile for
    you please give it a thumbs up down below there below the screen and if you
    haven’t already click on the subscribe hey thanks a lot for watching and we’ll
    see you on the rebuild next time

    Bluewater Sailboat Tour- On the Deck Of a Valiant 40 #1/3   (Patrick Childress Sailing #30)
    Articles, Blog

    Bluewater Sailboat Tour- On the Deck Of a Valiant 40 #1/3 (Patrick Childress Sailing #30)

    August 15, 2019

    Bluewater sailboat a tour of the Valiant
    40 part 1 my name is Patrick Childress on the
    sailboat Brick House I have had a lot of requests to do a boat tour of our
    valiant 40 so this will be a two-part series the first part will be covering
    the on deck and the cockpit areas and then part 2 will go down below and see
    what’s there. the Valiant forty first came out in 1973 it was designed by a
    radical thinker at that time named Robert Perry. it was believed that any
    boat sailing across oceans or especially around the world had to be extremely
    heavy and at that time the idea was using a double ender that is where the
    stern is almost or equally as pointy as the bow the idea there was the Moses
    effect so if you’re running ahead of big waves out in the storm
    waves will come up from behind and just part around that Stern and you’ll keep
    on going without broaching there’s a number of problems with that without
    that reserve buoyancy in the back that Stern can get depressed and waves can
    also wash right over onto the boat also when your hard on the wind there’s the
    lack of reserve buoyancy to keep the bow down and the stern gets depressed so you
    start hobby horsing out in these large waves when you’re hard on the wind hobby
    horsing is the rocking fore and aft of a boat and converges when more modern
    design boats are sitting still (many but not) doublenders will start hobby horsing
    for in aft fore and aft so Robert Perry designed a Canoe Stern this is a much
    fuller Stern much more buoyancy in the back and I still get a little bit of
    Hobby horsing when we’re hard on the wind in certain wave patterns I noticed
    that it slows us down some but overall it’s a very good compromise especially
    when we’re running with the wind and big waves
    we aren’t slewed around nearly as much as what a more modern boat would be with
    a much bigger broader stern so everythings a compromise some people
    love their double Enders that’s great I like our canoe stern but also the
    bottom of this Valiant forty was a radical departure from those
    earlier designs because the earlier designs had a full keel so they’re very
    stable boats when you’re crossing oceans but it’s a lot of wetted surface. it
    slows the boat down. this boat with the modified keel is much more nimble, it’s
    far easier to get in and out of marinas especially when there’s a wind and a
    current. with a less wetted surface at the time when the Valian 40 was launched
    it was a very nimble fast boat and I also say nimble I mean light at that
    time this was considered a light displacement boat now because of more
    modern designs and building materials the valiant 40 would be more along a
    moderate displacement boat. the one thing that I don’t like about this boat
    is its reversing capabilities. this boat when I put the gear shift into reverse
    it always goes off to starboard no matter what the only way I can
    straighten the boat out and have some kind of steering abilities is to put the
    gear shift into neutral and then coast. as long as that prop isn’t turning and
    washing over the hull then I do have steering in Reverse. if you go to the
    Kiwi prop site and read about their ideas of ”prop walk” which is a big miss
    it should be called ”hull walk” and that is where the wash of a prop washes over
    a curved surface in reverse and then causes the boat to turn off to one side
    or the other. there are other designs that’ll back up like a car just like
    this boat here it has a fairly flat bottom. the prop is just out in the
    middle by itself and that boat you will be able to parallel park in Reverse
    just like you’re pulling a car into a dock. my valiant 40 it takes a lot of
    finessing to do anything like that especially if there’s a wind or any kind
    of a current involved it’s very challenging and actually kind of fun as
    long as you don’t bash up anybody else’s boat
    so let’s go forward and start at the bow pointy end and work our way back
    from there. On the bow of the Valiant 40 it’s set
    up with a double bow roller assembly to carry two anchors. back in the 1970s
    anchor technology was certainly not what it is today.
    You needed two anchors back then. When we set off from the US and were anchoring
    in the Bahamas, we relied on this CQR plow anchor. In ten feet of water with
    100 feet of chain out this CQR dragged a long farmers furrow through a turtle
    grass bed. That’s when we switched over to the Bruce anchor. The Bruce anchor was
    a far superior anchor and we used that for many years, but it did drag twice on
    us both over very smooth coral and we felt like if it had a more pointy end it
    would have done a better job so we advanced with the anchor technology and
    eventually put on a Manson Supreme anchor. This is one of the latest greatest anchors. it
    has done extremely well for us. we’re very pleased with it.
    Unfortunately the Manson anchor would not fit on the bow roller along with the Bruce
    anchor. I’d love to have kept the Bruce anchor. The only thing that’ll fit that
    this old not so desirable CQR anchor. On an ocean crossing I take off the CQR and
    move it way back here by the front of the coach roof and put it on a thick pad
    and then strap it down with lines going port and starboard that’ll help to get
    some of the weight aft, but also if we’re plowing into big waves that’s a lot of
    force of waves across these anchors so I want to minimize all of that friction up
    on the bow. now this bow roller assembly was about 40 years old and it looked
    fine; nice shiny stainless steel but we’ve had our bad experiences with good
    looking stainless steel falling apart so we decided just to be cautious and
    replace it and this new bow roller assembly is made out of grade five
    titanium. Titanium is an incredible metal. Grade five titanium is three and a half
    times stronger than 316 stainless steel yet it weighs just a little bit more
    than half as much if you hold it in your hand it feels like a piece of aluminum.
    Nothing affects grade five titanium in the marine environment and that’s the
    same metal as these chain plates and the clevis pins and all of our mast tangs
    and clevis pins up on the mast so we’re good to go forever as far as the chain
    plates and the bow roller assembly is. We we get most of our titanium from
    Allied Titanium up in Washington State. There’s an article I wrote for Practical
    Sailor explaining the use of grade five titanium in the marine environment so if
    you go to Practical Sailor (online) and just search for titanium that article should come up.
    it’ll tell you all that you could possibly want to know about the use of titanium
    on your sailboat. While I’m up here at the chain I’ll point out these little
    marker flags they’re made of spinnaker material at
    one end of this strip I just cut a little slice in the
    material and then put the tail end through the link in the chain, bring that
    back up through that little slit in the cloth material and pull tight and then a
    wire tie securely holds it in place I put a couple extra wire ties on the
    chain links, wire ties they all fall off eventually
    and I don’t want to lose our markings I put these marks every 50 feet and
    there’s no problem at all with these flags or the wire ties going over the
    Gypsy of the windlass. And this windlass this is a Lofrans TIgres that’s been
    on this boat since we left Rhode Island over 12 years ago no problems at all
    it’s been a very good reliable windlass the Lofran Tigres is so powerful that it can
    even pull up other people’s old anchors along with our own anchor and chain. This
    Profurl roller furling system the NC 42 november charlie 42 and the smaller one
    for the staysail the NC 32 have been on Brick House for eight years. They’ve seen
    many thousands of ocean miles, hard use miles, and they have many more thousands
    of miles of use left in them. I highly recommend the Profurl roller furling
    systems. They have recently been upgraded so they don’t make the NC series anymore. These
    titanium screws have been replaced with another system and the housing is built
    a little differently so it’s even a better more robust Profurl system now.
    I would certainly buy Profurl again. We have three different running poles on
    the boat; the small one is two and a half inch diameter it’s 11 feet long I use
    that as a whisker pole for holding out the jib when the wind is light and the
    waves are still up it helps to keep the sail from snapping around too much. The
    next larger pole is a three inch diameter and that length is two feet
    shorter than the J dimension. I would like to have it at least equal to the J
    dimension and that’s a nice easy Pole to use sometimes I used the topping lift
    and forward and after guy depending on the weather and how lazy I am that day.
    sometimes I just manhandle it and shove it out on the clew of a sail and then
    put it up here on the ring on the mast. the monster pole I just don’t like to
    use. it’s up here on the mast it’s a four inch diameter it’s just far too heavy
    for this boat and that certainly requires a topping lift for and after
    guys. Varnishing teak has really gotten old. The only time this boat was a marina
    Queen is when we left Rhode Island and I took pictures of it because I knew it would
    never looked that good again but all these teak and rails I eventually sanded
    down primed and painted and now they are low maintenance. the one mistake I made
    was taking out some of these teak hand rails and replacing them with stainless
    steel there’s absolutely no advantage. Now we must polish stainless steel every once
    in a while. Take a look at the shiny teak on the cockpit combing there’s some
    things on this boat that are very low maintenance and yet will always be a
    ‘Marina Queen’. Up here just in front of the mast is a nice box to carry all of
    the chain and line for the spare anchor. I put a fuel hose in there for the sixty
    gallon fuel tanks and a couple extra bungees for the sails, sail ties, and a
    couple odds and ends. These wires that run horizontally around the boat I call
    them ‘tripperz’. I could never call them lifelines they’re 24 inches high and
    just the perfect size, just the perfect height to send somebody right over the
    side. it’s rare that I ever leaned up against these wires. why are they 24
    inches high? because way back when this boat was designed designers were
    following the racing rules and those rules for ocean racing said that
    lifelines had to be a minimum of 24 inches high and that’s so a crew, a
    Racing crew can sit on the side of the boat, legs hanging, and put their arms up and
    over very comfortably on the top of the wire eventually the racing rules
    required a second wire below that to keep the crew from sliding off the boat
    into the ocean so certainly 30 inch I would say would
    be the absolute minimum for a lifeline height certainly higher than that would
    be better up around hip height and of course designers don’t like to put
    anything that high because of cosmetics. There was a design hiccup with the
    Valiant 40. The mast was placed eight inches too far aft which causes a bit
    too much of a weather helm. to counteract that our mainsail is cut with no Roach
    so it’s a straight shot from the clew straight up to the peak of the sail and
    that helps to bring the center of effort a bit further forward. The reef hook on the
    starboard side, I just took off the portside reef hook, took that down to a
    welding shop here in Tanzania and had a duplicate made for the starboard side. I
    just had to give up another barb from a spear gun head.
    they couldn’t duplicate that barb and that barb of course helps to hold the
    dog-bone ring onto the reef hook. That cost me twenty four dollars which was mostly for
    the materials. this line is for the spinnaker halyard that holds up the
    dinghy at night and the blue line is the main halyard now that goes back to the
    cockpit the same as the reefing lines but I hardly ever raise the sail from
    the cockpit it’s far easier to do it at the mast and I can just reach up and
    hang on to the halyard and help use my body weight to raise the sail much
    easier that way than sitting back in the cockpit pulling and yanking and then
    trying to crank it the rest of the way up. We have this one two speed winch on
    the starboard side there’s another two speed winch on the port side for
    the staysail and the jib halyard. I really like the cutter rig so that’s
    with the staysail just aft of the jib and of course it’s
    on the Profurl roller furling. It gives us a lot of variety; quick sail changes
    out in the middle of an ocean depending on the weather conditions so we can run
    both head sails at the same time if we’re hard on the wind and the wind is
    light enough to warrant it or we just use one sail for off the wind.The one
    thing is when we do come about, I try not to let a jib sheet drag over the stay
    sail as that can really cause some serious chafe problems. On some boats I
    haven’t seen it on my Valiant 40 but the staysail will not be on a roller
    furler – it’ll just be a wire by itself on a lever so you can put it in place
    and attach it and then Hank on the stay sail and when the sail isn’t needed the
    wire is disconnected with that lever and then brought back to the mast and stored
    at the mast. its a very convenient way although of course that does take up
    more space down below for another sail to be stored but I like the convenience
    for ocean crossing to have both sails up on roller furthers ready to go. On our valiant 40 we have the Tides
    Marine sail track. I like it a lot it makes it easy for raising the mainsail
    but especially if I have to drop the sail in an emergency I can just let go
    of the main halyard and everything comes down at a very measured clip without
    crashing down as though something is going to break. It’s been on the boat for
    about eight years now. It’s showing a little bit of UV ultraviolet ray
    deterioration but nothing serious. It still has a lot of life in it. Possibly
    when we haul out in a few months in South Africa we’ll change it and put on
    a new Tides Marine sail track. There’s a good chance once we leave South Africa we’ll be
    sailing down to Tierra Del Fuego. We’ll be out in the middle of nowhere and we
    just want to make sure we install any equipment on this boat well in advance
    of any potential problems. Coming to the stern of the boat on the port side we
    have a big solar panel and then to help supplement that we have the KISS
    wind generator that’s been on here for 12 years now and we have rebuilt it once
    with new bearings and bushings and all kinds of other things on the inside so
    it’s adequate. If wehad known that we were going to be out here for over 12 years
    of cruising, we thought we’re only going to be away for four years, we would have
    spent more money and gotten a different wind generator that puts out more energy
    at a lower wind speed and doesn’t cut out at a higher wind speed like around
    20-25 knots this one overheat so that total over 20-25 knots and then cuts out and it
    has to cool down before it starts producing electricity again so it has a
    very narrow range of wind velocity for adequate amperage output. But it’s been
    on the boat doing its job. If it ever falls apart then we’ll replace it with a
    different kind of wind generator. This is our water catchment system. The cloth
    bimini over the cockpit – the water runs down and onto the hard top of the Dodger
    and it all runs down then into this plastic gutter. This is actually a very
    thin walled PVC pipe that has been cut lengthwise and it’s held in place with
    one two three four screws and then sealed along the top edge with some
    sealant. And this rope – this rope sits in here and
    then through surface tension it runs down the rope and into a bucket that we
    secured down here by the combing. Along this entire side deck the only drain the
    single drain was right here that’s barely a leak so we had to install
    scuppers to help drain this side deck much faster we put a cover here another
    scupper here and then another scupper just as far back as we could without
    these scuppers getting water off that side deck when we’re hard on the wind
    and waves and water crashing over onto that side deck water would jump deck
    combing and fill up the cockpit there’s one little drain hole off to the
    starboard side underneath that winch handle holder and with another little
    one on the far side. This boarding ladder is not original to the boat it has one
    two three four five six seven rungs each 12 inches apart and it’s simply held in
    place with this hook and I’m very surprised and even the worst weather
    it’s never been pushed off and over the side. I certainly do have to remember
    to tie it up next time we get in a bad storm just to be absolutely sure. So it’s
    simple, just unhook it throw it over the side. It’s on an articulating hinge up
    here that’s a half inch bolt and on the inside it’s one size larger bolt that’s
    mounted through on this little spacer and a washer. So we have a Man Overboard strobe
    self-deploying GPIRB. And if you want to lose your horseshoe ring mount it on the
    outside of the stern rail. Definitely large waves will come and
    wash it away. It should really be stored inside of the stern rail away from the
    weather. The stern anchor has come in handy plenty of times in anchorages to
    keep our bow into the waves. The chain for that is stored way down here.
    We have a lot of chain and about 150 feet of nylon Rode. That’s 3/8 inch chain – what
    a great idea that the designer came up with. Underneath here is the propane
    locker with two barbeque sized tanks that are about 20 pounds each.
    We haven’t had any trouble filling these tanks anywhere in the world. There
    have been a few places that we had to look a little harder for somebody who
    had the proper adapter to fill the tanks but otherwise it hasn’t been the
    headache that we first imagined it might be. This little tank is for this barbecue
    we thought that would be cute to have when we first left Rhode Island we
    hardly ever use it anymore and I would really just assume get it off the boat.
    This is a very old Yacht Specialties pedestal. After all these decades it’s
    still operating and in great condition which is a testament to how well built
    they were. The only problems are with these covers for the compass. The plastic
    always breaks on the inside so I’ve had it take it sand it down and coat it
    with fiberglass mat and a lot of resin, and put a little plastic knob on top and now it’ll
    last forever. Originally the engine control panel was
    mounted flush to the outside of this combing on the port side so what I did
    was make a one inch spacer to recess it inside of the coaming and then added
    this plexiglass on a hinge to help shed water off of the control panel certainly
    a much more seaworthy design. We have a numerous self tailing winch
    for the main sheets larger older style winches that never get used now since we
    don’t have a spinnaker and this is the original winch for the staysail sheet and then we have all the brakes for the
    mainsheet main halyard and of course all of the reefing lines come back to the
    brakes here in the cockpit and all of our instruments speed. depth, wind are
    Raymarine battery operated wireless. Okay this little thing is actually a step so we
    can stand on that and then see over the top of the hard Dodger after we roll up
    the bimini. And then down here on the floor are the two drains for the cockpit.
    Originally when I came on this boat they were just tiny little holes and I
    enlarged them just as large as I can make them. My restriction was just below
    here is the steering quadrant so the elbow that was required the 90-degree
    elbow is now clearing that quadrant by 1/8 of an inch
    otherwise I’d love to make these holes even bigger but then I went ahead and
    added a third drain right through this back panel of the
    cockpit. If we ever get in any kind of serious wave situation filling the
    cockpit I’ll probably be kicking myself for not adding about another three of
    these drains straight back through the aft section of the cockpit. So mounted on
    the stern is the Monitor wind vane. It’s been on here since we left Rhode Island.
    It’s been a fantastic machine – doesn’t use any electricity – it steers a pretty
    good course when we’re out in the middle of an ocean, and certainly saved us a lot
    of energy. The Raymarine autopilot has been a very powerful, reliable piece of
    equipment. I couldn’t imagine sailing long term and crossing oceans without
    both an autopilot and a Monitor self-steering wind vane. In very bad weather, water has washed into the cockpit and filled this cubby hole forcing water
    down into the engine room blower vent so I need to figure out a way to put a
    piece of plexiglass or something else quickly over that area to help keep big
    waves from washing into this area. Please use a hatch keeper like this when
    a hatch is open. I once watched a person sitting next to an open hatch knock it
    with their elbow it came down and nearly guillotine their fingers. Blood went
    flying everywhere. oh look what we have here a kitten. This is one of Lily’s
    favorite hiding places. She can go way back in here and nobody will bother her.
    Nobody could ever find her and she can have a very good sleep. Where
    she’s going now. way back and around, that’s where the stern chain is stored
    for the stern anchor. and that white box is the propane locker box. there’s a lot
    of space way back in here it’s a very large locker with shelves. it goes very
    deep all the way down to the hull and there is a similar locker on the
    portside. Well this video is pushing 24 minutes
    long I never intended it to be that long. If you could leave a comment down below
    what is a good length for these videos 10 minutes… 15 minutes… is this really too
    long? That’ll be a big help for me. Well I do hope that the information in this
    video was worthwhile for you. If it was, please comment down below or wherever it is on
    the screen, click the thumbs up and especially the SUBSCRIBE button. Hey thanks a lot and we’ll see you for part 2 in a couple of